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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 19, 1902)
1 THE OMAHA DAILY HEE: SUNDAY, OCTOBETl 10. 1002. t S -J B)VBV BSi "W TsW.-"' IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. -jU- IT h i I Ls ku LV KAtlllOV II1HH OK WOK. Maarnlaa; fioojls. (.orcon For anil Dainty Ten Jrkft. NEW YORK. Oct. 8. The fashionable garl: of woe is not the gloomy thin it once New mourning, and especially that for young widows, la distinctly coquettish, as If for the:ie Interesting beings the world bad not entirely lost ita aaTor. The old dense, disfiguring stuffs oiu-e used have given plare to soft diaphanous textiles, whose dellrate turklngs drawn threads and dull silk needlework are an agreeable change from the former trimmings of Eng lish crepe. This disfiguring and unwhole- stanres) with mourning, or piping of th) same. Kor fast Mark the little Marie Stuart bonnet, ahlch points down so becomingly at the front of the head. Is still the ap proved widow's headpiece. With this, after the first three weeks, when it Is generally worn over the fare, the long veil Is draped at the back of the bonnet, the short veil alone covering the face. Brown top coals, with a wide band of black at the left arm, are the badge of bereaved school girls, and tiny children may dress entirely In white. A band of little ones seen at Newport showed what Is conaldered good form In children's mourning. Two girls of 4 and j(fJ3' TV. TIFFIN JACKET. Jrm emblem, indeed, has been banished So the limbo of things which have bad their day. Except to trim the gowns of old-fashioned grandmamaa and other dames of "settled" taates It Is now but rarely seen, the most fragile nun's veilings and dull finished chlffona having taken the place of It for bonnets and veils. Even the widow's cap, that aomewbat too-ostentatious rim of white about the face, la now, so to speak, upon the shelf. Elderly women may wear them If they wish, but for the bereaved one whose years suggest the possibility of future consola tion they are severely tabooed. "A young widow should wear nothing which makes her conspicuous," explain the fashion- mongers In defense of this restriction. Nevertheless, little collars and cuffs of sheer white lawn are allowed, and those who run may read their meaning. Half-mourning, as it Is now known, is often a combination of black and white anybody might wear. For example, a radiantly charming gown of square meshed net was built upon a foundation of dull finished white taffeta. The trained skirt was In straight-cut flounres to the waist, narrow biases of black taffeta bordering the three lower ones and striping a nar row apron gore with four vertical rows. The blouae was laid in broad circular tuck, four at the top of the sleeves matching. Full puffs shaped the bottoms of the aleeves, with two bands of taffeta put on In deep poluts. A sailor collar of crocheted lace trimmed the shoulders of the bodice, which opened over a tucked vest of black chiffon. Narrow taffeta ribbons tied It at the bust, and a pointed girdle of the taffeta finished the waist. Moarnlna; Frocks. A very effective frock for deep mourn ing was of the thinnest nun's veiling, with tucks two Inches wide for ornaments. These, In a closely massed band of seven, bordered a deep circular skirt flounce, and made a band around the middle of the bod lee and at the top of the sleeves. A second band of tucks was at the bottom of the sleeves, which hung open over un- llned puffs of coarse, dull net. At tho throat of the simple waist there waa a tucked cravat of the same. Hats covered entirely with dull silk are eonsldrred the prorrr thing for deep mourning headgear; both widows and maids wear with- these short veils of plain net, bordered (In the newest In 6 were In white from head to toe: a more sorrowful-looking lassie, of perhaps .. wearing a black saah and black hat with her snowy cloth gown. A boy of 10 was In tho deepest black, relieved by a tan overcoat with the wide bombazine sleeve band. Altogether they presented a spec tacle more cheering than otherwise, for surely to relieve children of the hideous garments which were once their portion Is a matter for rejoicing. The Infantile heart was only too long bowed down by the sad trappings of woe. New Fare. Among the new furs la very inexpen sive dyed skin which goes under the name of German sable. This quit neatly imi tates the more precious pelts, with a little more red, perhaps, and the markings a little more pronounced. Nevertheless, for night wear the long German sable coats are admirable purchases, producing a look of splendor that deceives any but the con noisseur. Short capes and big roll muffs are likewise seen in this cleverly dyed fur, with deception abetted by the most ravishing silk linings. Brocaded doublings In the moat delicate huea are used, some of the coat linings run to Pompadour stripes and those of the capes to wreaths and bouquets. As to price, $25 will buy a German sable cape that reaches to the waist, with a pale blue silk lining cov ered with raised rosebuds. Qno ticketed at this price had even a rich Jabot effect of the fur at the front. When hoisted the wide collar mounted high above the ears. A more precious fur is Siberian gray squirrel. In which are seen fetching box coats and pelerine shoulder capes daintily old-time In suggestion. White pieces (Caracule) put In In long ovals between borders of the gray line the squirrel coats, the same effective treatment facing the long stole ends of the cape. But more beautiful than all the other furs of the seaaon is mlnerva, the baby ermine which la so delicately spotted with the black tall tips, and which waa used for the coronation. The princely fur mors nearly approaches the look of raw cotton than anything else, and something In Its fairy quality makes it especially suited to children., The minerva sets for both grownups and small fry are Identically the same In model. The muff is large and soft without th usual stiffening and th slim stole ends of the narrow nock piece finish with white fox tails. For little girls In mourning these sets sre fashionable details, which, however, only the rich ran afford. It stands to reason that anything favored by courts cannot be worn by the many. Varieties In Wraps. Sweet woman has set her heart this win ter en loose-fitting wraps of all descrip tions. The three-quarter box coats are more easy than ever, hanging In many In stances, with an almost gathered look all around. One stylish model revealed this looseness at Just the right degree and a smart point with the roat was a novel yoke outlining. This was made by a heavy stitch ing, curving somewhat high at the back. and running down the fronts to the bot tom of the garment. Mixed black and white cheviot was the material of the coat, which showed collar and cuff lininga of black sou tache braid. Long slit pockets opened at the sides and the mannish turnover collar and bell sleeves were comfort-giving fen- turns. In a window nearby this promenading vision was a coffee Jacket of unusual dainti ness. For all tea gowns and tea Jackets, you know, have been rebaptlsrd, the brown bean having succeeded the green leaf for the afternoon beverage. This rose by an other name was a veritable blossom In color silk, lace and embroidery, all in the brightest marigold yellow. The silk was the soft liberty variety, laid In small tucks to form a short yoke and three-quarter length sleeves. Deep frills In a gossamer embroidery (It seemed to be mouaseline) shaped a Jacket effect from the yoke and full sleeve flounces. Around the square yoke went a band of crocheted silk lac, a shoul der one on the sleeves meeting It and an other heading the flowing flounces. And all this, mind you. over a complete under blouse of the marigold silk, laid In fine kilts. "Thirty-five dollars," eald the pretty saleswoman, and the Inquirer amiably re sponded "Cheap at that." This shop, by the way, Is famed for grace ful negligee, patterned after the liberty designs. A soft shade of sage green is a frequent tint observed among the wool models, which Include clinging bedroom robes with silk doublings In the same shade. The linings of these are very soft and thin, showing in a capuchin hood and under the open fronts of the gown. The closing is mad by lapping the fronts bath robe fash- Ion, which in turn are held in place by a silk cord with chenille ends. Apropos of chenille, fashion Is Just now displaying a keen interest in her one time love. Braid bats are threaded with chenille and net gowns strung with it and if the soft roll of the real stuff is not used feather edges are made to resemble It to a T. On black lace hats these light and fluffy bor ders sometimes also assume huea long as sociated with departed modes. Magenta was the color of one chapeau, and mazarine blue that on another. MARY DEAN. FOLK LORE OF WEDDICS, Rome Ancient Customs and Their SIsTOlleaace. There is much marrying and giving In marriage these October days and at each HI -nwK9i NEW IMITATION SABI.E. CHIC HALF MOURNING. he Arc Unequalled In Ml DESIGN Artistic ornamentation, beauty of outline and hannoaiouii proportious. FtNISrt-monthn of Mating, perfect fittings and nickeled part. CONVENIENCC-Th many labor-saving devices which nikko ihoir turn pWaurara. ECGNOMY-Noientina ooustractiaa that sacuiM best resalta with least fuel. DURABILITY Lantiugqoality rendering few npairs Every "OAKLAND" Sold with a Written Guaranty by leading Mtrthanti Truvtijhout th Country. V""V Mas lf n U V. UU sy Progrsssras iawsWmaaO8vryssi. f 1 Matealvbv Th Mlchlffan Stova Camnanv. If I . Wl i -. . . .. r v m urgw waters iu swvci ana Jiaogc m we world. i&V l ... ...... "T 1 C'i necessary. i hi sale fcj Milton tars & Sons Co , 14th and Farnsci Strut-. and every ceremony bride and guests are careful to preserve hallowed traditlona. Superstitions may be defied on all occasions, but these. A wedding without blue garters and rice and old shoe is almost if not quite as bad as Hamlet, with the Prince of Den mark out of the caste. But, although every body knows what should be dona to pro pitiate th good fairies, few have any idea of the origin of the hundred and one cus toms attending the wedding day. The use of the ring is, without doubt. th most ancient and symbolic accessory of the celebration of marriage. So prev alent la the feeling regarding Its tndlspen sablllty that strange substitutes have been used In eases of emergency when the con ventional hoop of gold had been forgotten Curtain rings and key ringa have don duty and a more personal substitute baa often been devised by cutting a ring from the brldesgroom glove. Anciently a ring marked an office of great dignity, being worn only by a king or given by him to his messengers, that their au thority might be established. As civilisa tion advanced and woman's position was more chivalrously regarded, the ring was given her aa a token of the high dignity bestowed upon her in th marriage cere mony. The chotc of th form of th ring is for a twofold reason the poetic meaning as cribed to it and the fact that its plain ness makes It more practical for conatant use. Among the Egyptians a circle was the hieroglyphic expression of eternity. Its adaptation for use aa the marriage token In preference to a pin or earring or any other kind of ornament la aaid to be that It can be worn constantly, and la not put off with any particular garment; also, that It is always within sight of the bride, keep ing the bridegroom In mind. Various reaaons are given for the adop tion of the so-called ring-finger a the rest ing place of this emblem, and to this usage also the fanciful and utilitarian minds nave aacrlbed diverse origins. The former interpretation has it that th belief was very current, before the days of advanced anatomy, that a small artery ran from thia finger to the heart directly, What rould be more to the purpose of poet ical logic than that the wedding ring should reat there? The choice of th left hand is by som supposed to symbolii th submls ion of the wife to her husband. Th practical mind disposes of thess fancies by suggesting that In thia position the ring was more protected from wear and Injury or loaa, as th left hand la aot so much in us aa th right, and this finger la protected on either side and la capabl f a lesa degree of Independent actios) than say other ftager. la many old pictures of th Virgin, bar ring was painted on her forefinger, as was the custom for the wearing of It In ancient Greece and Rome. This finger is the one nearest the mount of Jupiter, indicating the pride of dignity. An old Italian custom placed the birth month stone of the bride In her wedding ring, and thia Idea became elaborated Into the using of twelve stones, one for each month, that no good fairy might be un propitlated. Through this custom the ring became so enormously expensive as to be a severe tax on r.iany a humble groom in the middle ages, and hence the revulsion to the plain circlet of gold in universal use. The modern practice of a gift of Jewelry from the groom to the bride (aside of th engagement or wedding ring) Is a sur vival of the old institution of the "daw purse," or purse of coins, which he gave her to signify that he had purchased her from her friends. The giving of gifts by the friends of the young couple has a very different signifi cance now from Its original one. Instead of a token of compliment or expression of good will, it was anciently of much more practical Import. ' It was frankly consid ered that the friends should by this means help the young people starting out on their life Journey. The wedding cake Is a development' of the three ears of wheat carried by the bride in very olden times as a presage of plenty of the good things of life. In time the grain thus formerly carried wax ground and made Into small cakes, which were thrown over the bride's head as she entered her first house. A pile of these flat cakes were laid one upon another. after the manner of ahew-bread in old illustrations of bible times. Thus by a natural evolution came the present form of one huge, round cake, for whose elaborate appearance and composition we have the French to thank. The bachelor friends of tho groom who have now the office of ushers were origi nally called "bride-knights," and had the honor of conducting the bride to the church before the ceremony. For this attendance the bride bestowed a pair of gloves upon each of them, whence comes the presence of gloves among weddtng trophies. It is also an old Belglc custom for the groom to give a pair of gloves to the bride dur ing the ceremony, as he gives the ring; glovea as the covering of the hands, typi fying the giving of the hand in good faith. Th probable precedent for the tying up of the bridal carriage and baggage of today in whit is found in an account of an English country wedding of 17S5. This tells of tho decorating of trees and poles in the street where the bridegroom lived with white paper cut In the form of gloves and ribbons. The bestowing of the bride's garters is probably a relic of the very ancient cus tom of untying the bride's girdle immedi ately after the wedding and bestowing it on some favored friend. Formerly the garter (or garters, as many were often used) were given by the bride to some young men aa a mark of favor and some authorities quote this as the probable be ginning of "the Order of the Garter," rather than the more familiar legend. The only allusion to the throwing of the shoe in former times Is an account of a wed ding in 1640, in which the sole of the groom's shoe was placed on the .bride's head. Indicating submission. Every country has' particular legends and superstitions on this subject and every usage connected with the wedding had its origin as a symbol of some sentiment. WESTERN GIRLS' AVIWING WATS. Triumphs Over Their Eastern Slaters Explained by an Expert. A New York theatrical manager has no ticed for some time that western girls succeed better on the stage than their east ern sisters. After giving some consider ation to this circumstance which sur prised him a good deal, he being an east ern man he has arrived at the conclusion that the west is the east revitalized. "To the world of art," he says, "the western girl brings a breeziness and fresh ness which carry her along over obstacles which others have come to regard as In surmountable. From the breath of the west she steps into the road ruts of the east and never knows they are there. She Is of the second generation, whose fathers burst the bonds of eastern narrowness and took to the strength and breadth of the west. She la Btrong physically and men tally. There is a fearlessness about her which leads her to Investigate where others are passive. "Not long since, noticing one of these girls who look at life through the eyes of nature, standing in the wings night after night, watching the performance, I asked her why she was not in her dressing room. 'I like to watch the others and to think how I would act the parts,' she replied Fearlessness and originality were forcing their way to the front. "The girl did not aay, 'I could do it Ilk the others.' That would have been Imita tion. She bad no idea of anything but her own conception of how things should b done. Given the chance ahe would do them III cMAKT. UOX COAX. ,spp mmim Grateful women have ensconced securely In their hearts hi celebrated aid durinsr tho trials of pregnancy. Aa the mother is the constant prop of the child after its suc cessful issue into the world, so should Mother's I'riend be the constant companion of the woman before her child is born. Women weak or stronjr.and those with healthy or unhealthy generative organs, will find that child-bearinif is not accompanied by terror If thisexcellent agent for external application is used throughout the child-bearing period. Mother's Friend is always applied externally and rubbed Into the flesh over the region of pain, goftness, pliability and expansion are given to the muscles, tissues, fibres and sinews. llowing the elasticity necessary to bring comfort while with heavy burden, and cause easy issue of the child. Try it. Of all druggists. $1.00 per bottle. Our book, Motherhood." FRF.E. ft THE BRADFIELO RECULATOR CO., Atlanta, Ci. j "The Adan for the Job" or the Job for the Man EITHER QUICKLY FOUND THROUGH AN AD IN Tho Dee's Great Want Directory Dr. Burkhart's Wonderful Offer. 'SlXMOhTHSTrftM Mtfk MfEEETABlE The following symptoms are cured bv Pr. Burkhajrt's Vegetable Compound: Rheu matism, Palpitation of the Heart, Catarrh, 1'alns In Blile and Back, lMzzinesn, IMmples on the Face, Sick Stomach, Coated Tongue, Night Sweat, Stiffness in I.lmbs and Joints, Poor Appetite, etc. 10 days' treat ment free. All ilrugglstx. DR. W. S. BIHKilAHT, Cincinnati, O. FREE- Literature-FREE Oa th fertll toad st sunny COLORADO Fln farma Is the beiuttrul San Lois Vtllev from 110 par arm op. Whara water la plenty.' Where a fall, lira of crope haa n.rer beaa known. Tlie line farms on earth are located hero. Baud todar for full In formation and deacrlptlra printed matter. Bent free. The Boathern Colorado l.ana1 Co., 121-62? E. r. Bids., Denrer Colo, r Alamoaa. Cole. In her own way, too, and probably to the satisfaction of her audience." This same manager says that another evidence of western breadth and depth is observable In the voices. Deep mezzo so pranos, and round, full contralr.03 an the rule. Western girls sing because nature intended they should. They have good lungs and well poised, evenly developed bodies. Because of their naturalness they are devoid of self-consciousness and they adapt themselves readily to new conditions. Frills of Fashion. Royal blue is a popular color In all varie ties of dress fabrics. Handles of antique Ivory are seen on new umbrellas of high grade. For the college girls are pretty hatpins of silver and enamel in the form of oars. The popular grape now appars on buttons Of oxtpized silver, with the design cut out. Among the modish lorgnette pendant Is a tiny mirror, which resembles an enameled clover leaf. Short Jackets of the dark grav Siberian squirrel are set off with revers and facing of ermine. Dainty turnover collars are made of soft liberty silk In delicate colorings, appllqued with heavy lace In ecru tone. A pretty design In a golf vest shows a tiny pattern in black on a white ground, ornamented with small gilt buttons. Fans composed of the plumage of the parrot, pheasant or robin are mounted on a pearl stick of Irregular shape. Apples, decidedly realistic In form and coloring, decorate a toque of dark red cloth from a Parisian house; cerise velvet and black lace mingle with the fruit. The Jersey skirts, both in silk and wool, are very much liked, as they fit the hips so cloaely, and a shaped flounce of colored silk edged with one or more ruches Is th finish. A safety hatpin Is one of the season's novelties. It differs only from the regula tion type by the addition of an ornamental cap, which la adjusted to the pnlnt of the pin after It haa been slipped through the hat. Quaint invitations for children's parties have a picture of dancing little boys ami girls on the cover, below which la written, "V depend upon you to help us," or "Von are wanted here," a space being left for th name, day, hour and place. On of the newest designs In fancy hair combs Is of biond tortnlHe shell, inlaid with peacock design in brilliants. Another Is ornamented with a trellis work of brilliants and turquoise, and a third ia Inlaid with gold In strikingly pretty effect. Among the new veils white tulle, printed with black In a variety of patterns, seems to be prominent, and to this the finest chenille and velvet dots are added also In design. It is. Indeed, an attractive velllna and much more becoming than you would fancy. Blouses for the fall and winter come In black and white cut velvets, the black and white being In fine stripes or colors, giving the effect of gray. One lot of these waists has small gray silk danglers at Intervals down tho front, one of th make-believe ornamental fastenings. Curse DRINK WHITE RIBBbN REMEDY No taste. No ouor. Can be given In glass of Water, tea, or coffee without patient's knowledge. White Klbl.on Remedy will cure or de stroy the diseased appetite for alcoholle stimulants, whether the patient is a con firmed inebriate, a "tippler," aoclal drinker or drunkard, lmposaible for anyone to have an appetite for alcoholic liquors after using White Ribbon Remedy. Indorsed by Members ol W. C. T. V, Mrs. Moore, tress superintendent of Wo man's Christian Teraperanoe Union. Ven tura, California, writes: "I have tested White Ribbon Remedy on very obstinate drunkards, and the cures have been many. In many cases tho Remedy was given se cretly. I cheerfully recommend and Indorw White Ribbon Remedy. Members of our Union sre delighted to find an economical treatment to aid us in our temperance work." ' Druggists or by mall. tl. Trial package) free by writing Mrs. A. M. Townsend (for years secretary of a Woman's Christian Temperarce Union), 218 Tremont 8t., Bos ton, Mat,. Bold In Omaha by SCHAEFER'S DKUQ STORK Phone 7-J7, 8. W. Cor. 16lh and Chicago. Goods elellverad FREE to any part at oitw. Phoenix, Arizona. Th winter home of no less than 26.000 persons, who go there to escape the hard ships of a winter In th north. Excellent hotels; Innum erable boarding houses; mild climate; clear, pur air; plenty of place to go and things to do; most cheerful health resort in the country; endorsed by vary cllmatologtst In America. Easily, quickly and com fortably reached by the El Paso-Rock Island Route and Southern Pacific Rail road. Rates and full In formation furnished on re quest. ' Uw rates to California, Washington, Montana, Ore gon. Utah and Idaho now In effect. Ask about them. TICKET OFFICE 1323 Farnam Street, Omaha. Neb. D For and Abont Women. Dr. Gertrude Ught, a Milwaukee girl, has been appointed a sanitary inspector in New York Clly under the new tenement house law. Mrs. Thomas Ruggles Kltson, ,the Boston srtlst, has Just finished two baa reliefs of Japanese artists, which are to he raat In bronse and placed In the Museum of Arts at Toklo. King Edward has conferred the decora tion of the royal red cross on Miss Annie Myers and Daisy Urazier in recognition of their services In attending to the sick and wounded soldiers In Prkin during the recent operations In China. Mrs. Phoebe Hearst has presented Charles L. Hall's valuable collection of specimens of natural history and ethnology, gathered In western Alaska and In the Yu kon region, to the California Slate uni versity, A Vassar graduate of Miss Helen D. Thomuson. la turning her knowledge of sanitation and social work to the advantage of a whole community at orange, is. j., where she haa been made sanitary In spector. Her effort to Instruct people In unsanitary surroundings In better waya of living have met with success wher men have failed In tbslr attempts. A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOV FOREVER I. T. FELIX COIRAI'D'S ORIENTAL CREAM. OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER. Removea Tan. Plmplaa. K reck lea. Moth Patches - naaa ana sain LHe- ' eaae. and aiai blemlah on ' beauty, and dellee detention. It kaa atood the last of qrtr-four raars. -J r J 1 uua and la so barmleea wa taate It to bo aura 11 la proportr do. accept n aterfelt of aimfc teaie. Dr. U A. Say la eald l lady ol me Sain ton ta patient): "As vou ladles will use them, I recom mend 'UOL'RAL'D o CREAM' aa the least harmful of all the skin preparations. For sale by all drurglat" and fancy goods deal era in the V. a. and Europ. FKHD. T. HOPKINS, PrPr, 87 Groat Jones St.. N. T. Asaeriea's Great Daiahle Track Bcnle IHshwar. The Lehigh Valley Railroad. Luxurious trains running on limited time. Rout of the Black Diamond Express. Stopover allowed at Niagara Falls oa all through tickets to New York and Philadelphia. Cvory Woman UBUevaaanaaheaUd rnov . anoai mw eaarnj MARVTL Whlrllsa Sarwy ie If ,ei Coeefc I Mar aaaaa Iw k. t ha oanfhut auoulv I 1 1 Sit SLm a-.ov no ft kief, but ataota for I luiuued aoo Jl h (teas run Veiu ill a&rueulenl tad direeticua la C uuuiel.UJi- MaVBXTe. feOoaa ft TUas Bias- M. Ti (or ox IHERMtn A M'(0tLt DRIO CO Corner Sixteenth ajid Dodaa aUaau. Omaha mm TANSY PILLS tor tWrearetheani aewsad reliable yoiauU AtosQlator tor ail Uoutlea. kchevea wiUmii daya. At druggieta, or aaall. Price. t tvad tc. for "Woo''ertaf'tunl."Wlleos Mexi. Ic a.1 lo-T K. UUi St.. I tala. ra Bold by (thermaii, Mc-Connell Drug C4 0. Vv. Cur. lain and Dutlgu, Omaha, iaH
