Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, September 21, 1902, EDITORIAL SHEET, Page 14, Image 14

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    14
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
1
FA I.L ftTll.KS TiKK SIHPE.
Soluble Ffatnrn In Uoaks. Uowne,
Frorkt and Milliner?.
NEW YORK. Srt. 1 The first thin on
notices with the new autumn suits 1b a
tendency toward braid trimmings and
tltrhrd strapping of " nr'"- ,n form
the gowns, even the plalneat of them, run
1o eklrtn that train slightly, with a blouse
Jscket or Eton roat for the upper garment.
Burh tyl'. however, are distinctly for
street wear. The dressier frocks, those
worn for railing, receptions, the theater,
t ihn Mouse or round bodies, made
elaborate with einbroiderlea and lace vests.
A few coats are en with these very aniart
costumes, but the beet of them cren sug
gest the round waist, since most of the tall
ia In tho rear.
One very stunning new coat for tailor
frocks shows th close fit and rear cut of a
riding Jacket, a long, plain, snugly fitting
klrt with thla adding to the horsy look.
More glovc-tlght than ever are all skirts
t the top, where habit backs, fitting with
out a wrinkle and short hip yoke are
allstlnctlve features of the newest styles.
Some degree of train Is also everywhere
observable, but, being less stiffened than
formerly, the flouncing bottoms fall wl;h
considerably more grace. Another point for
congratulation la that the hideous "sym
mctrlcals" the Rraphlc stage term which,
for a seaaon or more, built out too meager
hips, have had their day. The hips of
the fashionable woman must look small,
whether tbey are or not, and the smaller
they look the better.
A trio of charming street gowns de
lightfully Illustrate these subtle but necea
nary points. Two demonstrate the Invad
ing hip yoke, which In all cases Is cut short
at the back and to dip downward at the
front. Never la such a line departed from;
, It la Intended that the curve of the yoke
must follow that of the girdle, which at
the front curves more than ever low.
The Sfw Bine.
French cloth the sort of broadcloth that
has a satiny finish In one of the new
blues, composes the more elegant of the
three costumes. A very handsome em
broidery In blue and black ornaments the
blouse waist, but the skirt depends en
tirely upon stitched strappings of the same
cloth for trimming. These outline a hip
yoke and graduated flounce, horizontal
bands running between at every narrow
gore. At the bottom the gore bands cross
the flounce one, the ends pointed and gradu
ating Id length, showing longest at the back.
With the rich embroidery mentioned more
bands appear upon the bodice, shaping a
rorst girdle shoulder, caps and cuff bands
for the sleeves. The tucked vest Is of white
moussellne, creased by narrow string of
black panne. These hold together the em
broidered blouse fronts, whose splendor Is
further emphasized by large buttons of sap
phire and silver. A black moussellne cravat
smartly swaths the throat and the folded
girdle la of the black panne.
The aocond gown In point of elegance Is
also blue, for blue, you know, Is Fashion's
latest caprice. She docs not confine herself
to any particular abade, but offers tints for
'every taste, "legitimate" blues our old
friends the navy shades and "Illegitimate"
ones. If we may use the word, for some of
the numberless mad-tinted dyes. The old
tlma sky-blue, rebaptlzed azure, Is a favorite
color for airy evening gowna, and a new and
very eccentr'.o tint is called "'gaslight
blue." '
Radiant Colors.
Trimmings of black and white deck many
of these radiant colors, the combination
showing in braids with a tartan weave and
checked silks. On a bewitching house gown
of pale blue French cashmere, black and
white checked silk was used with a sur
prisingly smart effect. Also It suggested
dazzling possibilities In the way of economy,
for such silks are never dear and short
remnants In them can alwaya be found.
But to return to our second frock, whose
texture Is no more than English serge. In
a lightweight quality. The unllned skirt is
lightly tucked and falls from a scalloped
nip yoke over a black taffeta "drop," which,
you know, is dressmaker's Jargon for lining.
The trimming ia narrow black braid, put
on the skirt !s an odd band to simulate a
graduated flounce. On the bodice, which
goes under tho belt at the back and has
loose Eton fronts, the braid is differently
disposed
A number of rows, closely massed, form
a border for the cutout neck and fronta
which lap slightly, some scattered ends of
braid, finished with heavily embroidered
knots, giving the necessary look of relation
ship with the skirt. Similar swirls orna
ment the drooping puds of the sleeves,
whose upper pert Ions more than usually
accentuate the present closely at this point.
The third gown, though made with leas
dressy intention than these two, to the
sophisticated mind far surpasses them In
dash. Brown and white mottled wool la
its ground maaterlal, plain brown cloth
bands, with white cloth edges both left
raw accomplishing a decoration Infinitely
effective. Two of these outline the narrow
apron gore or the skirt, two ethers run
ning round with a douh'e flounce suggestion
swirling oddly at the sides and back.
Stylish Coat.
An Eton coat is tbe simple upper gar
ment, sleeves slightly flowing and fronts
lapping diagonally and dropping below the
belt in a stylish point.
A military looking frogglng Is made
across the fronts of tbe coat, which is cut
out In the neck after the manner of all of
the beet Etons. This the frogglng-ls
achieved by a number of short straps with
pendant tabs. The French back of the coat
shows only two straps, these continuing
ovrr the phoulders and down the side fronts
sup.iender fashion.
All of these gowna are from ready-made
models, whereby you may see that the shops
are catering more than ever to the demand
lor elegance. .cvenncieBS, none oi mfm
were very dear.
On the contrary, considering they were all
built upon silk, they were, aa compared to
A SWAGGER RAGLAN.
former prices, astonishingly cheap; $60, $49
and $38 were the prices with which they
were ticketed.
Of even more importance than the gown
Is the hat with which beauty will soon
crown herself, the whole style of the toilette
depending now upon the fitness and becom
Ingness of the headpiece. Tbe shape of
tola is not necessarily dependent upon the
genre of the costume, at Iff severe, effects
being seen with the moat frou-frou cos
tumes, and some eminently picturesque
with the plainest dresses.
What is required ia that you get the
right thing and wear it rightly, which
means that you must conalder your type
first of all and the kinks of fashion next.
It would be Impossible to detail all the
Ins and outs of. the new millinery,, but an
exaggerated flatness Is the distinguishing
feature of the moat popular models. The
brim shapes of the summer very wide at
the front and dipping over the face with
next to no brim behind, will continue to
be worn. With such headgear trimmings
mora than ever conform to the lines of the
hat. In some cases, indeed, they aeetn part
of it, folds of velvet or silk mingling with
other folds made in the hat Itself. The
aide brims of these flat model curve
slightly upward, with puffed and crimped
locks only filling out the underspaces. The
short backs are met by the coiffure, over
which ends, If they are not too long, may
dangle.
Felta In Vogse.
Another very flat hat la a burs low
crowned sailor, with a shallow upcurvlng
brim. Such styles come In the brilliantly
colored felts In vogue, and are seen with
wing and ribbon trimmings. The garniture
are put on very simply and alwaya with
an eye to preserving the flat, pan-affect,
for these great round hats are delightfully
auggestlve of cake pana.
A stylish model In green felt the vivid
Patrick green revealed an unusual smart
ness In the arrangement of the trimming.
White satin ribbon composed this, folded
In a narrow crown band and bunched In
two huge rosettes, which were placed under
the brim, Just back of each ear. A soft
bow filled in the back space between these
and directly In front of tha hat were two
parrot wings In green and blue. These,
very narrow and shaply pointed, were inter
locked and posed across tha bat In almost
straight line. Tha effect was very stylish
and simple enough for anybody to fellow.
In variety and coloring the range In new
hat materials la enormous. Braid hats of
several textures sometimes taffeta velvet
and chenille combined come In brilliant
colore, all trimmings preserving the start
ling tint. Again, there will be a hat in
shaded colors blues and greens mingled,
reds fading to the palest pinks, and purples
ending In .violet. Among these nsveltlea, for
of course these hat are only novelties,
Are Unequalled In
DESICN ArWstla ornamentation, beauty of outline anil
barmonioua proportions.
FINISH-3'noothnet of easkiags, perfect fittings and nickeled
parts.
CONVENIENCE-Th aieny labor-saving devices which
W . ihfir uxtt a xl4uart.
ECO NOT." Y- Sciert:?. eout.Tict.oo that secant beat results
w:l!i I.W V i a. ).
P U 3 A LI T Y i-c,l.:4 quality rctxlerinj fow repairs nectary.
Evtry ,OARlAN0 Sold with a Written Guaranty by
LwduiJ Merchants Throughout tha Country.
PrUes mail Uam 13 is IM. Sals' ty Prat rcaaive Steve fterckaats Everyvkare,
Mad only
Largest
11
n
V"
tm nism. MMWrrHKuhiitwtlifautt Every esu. ".
by The Michigan Stove Company, M
t Makers of S loves and Ranges in the Worki, s
For sals bi Milto.i Rjzers & Sons Co . 14th an. Farnam Streets-
are some little toques made of velvet
autumn leaves, which rcsplendent'y set off
plain tailor frocks.
Large plume trimmed hat are seen among
the finer toppings, the shapes suggesting
the old Gainsborough without being as
large. These will be worn very much on
the side of the head, as If they were ready
to fall off, in fact. Other brim hats, those
evenly balanced in shape and trimming,
will continue to sit the hea.l squarely, with
the downward dip over the face.
Imported Coat.
Early Importations In coals show that
they are to be In many lengths. The models
the shops are taking to are mainly of the
three-quarter variety, with loose back,
open sleeves and many variations of tho
strap trimming. These are not universally
becoming, though there Is no doubt but
that they arc very convenient styles.
More effective and decidedly more ele
gant are certain little French coals which
suggest capes. These drop Just below the
waist at the back, the scallop rounding
up till the front Is a mere nothing.
One beautiful tucked model In euch a
roat gave a clever woman an Idea for
making over an old bisque cloth cape.
First, an entire coat of Ivory white taffeta
waa cut, with flowing sleeve coming short
of the wrist. Then all over thla tho bisque
cloth waa sewed In circular bands about
two Inches wide, the effect at the finish
closely resembling tucking. The trimming
of the old cape, a black chenille and steel
embroidery, was used for a deep collar.
with the Bteel picked out and the Injured
places covered with leaf applications of
black velvet. Last, but not leant, flouting
scarf ends of black silk muslin were added
to the front. These ruffled at the bottoms
and tied at the bust In a graceful bow.
Many of the now styles give Ideas for
the making over of garments, the sklrta
with tip-gore and narrow breadths being
especially suggestive. For these almost
any skirt of the last three seasons can' be
used, as It la quite within the province of
fashion to have both tho yoke and the
flounce In a contrasting material. With
black cloth any figured taffeta in a smart
dealgn can be used, this shaping the hip
gore, tbe flounce and bodice proper. For
the rest of the gown, the middle skirt and
bolero jacket, use the cloth, first seeing
that it is well cleaned and pressed.
MARY DEAN.
(W
SMART AUTUMN HATS.
WOMB AS KKKHnS.
Can
They
Accomplish Wonder If
Kirk Wisely and Well.
The women of America need no advice
from any one. on moral 'questions, ays the
Saturday Evening Post. Witness what the
power of women did In a southern state
campaign against a congrefsman who had
been proved of unfit character to represent
an upright body of people, and later what
women did in a national fight against a
western congressman who reckoned their,
power so little that be even attempted to
take his seat In congress In defiance of
public opinion. Everybody admit that
those two lustancea represent a fight of
two men against the women of America,
and who won? That shows what women
can do, and It ha never been alleged that
In either Instance any woman went out
aide of her woman' sphere or was un
womanly In any effort aha made In the
cause of pure representation and good gov
ernment. A senseless and ridiculous system of
"kicking" against everything and every
body Is not urged. The chronic complalner
1 a nuisance to himself as well aa to his
neighbor, although, If he were forced to
choose between tbe chronic "kicker" and
the chronic lambs of a citizen who bears
all municipal injustice patiently and who
meets all attempt at reform with the
watchword, "Don't make a fuss about It,"
we should choose a kicker. For a chronic
kicker, though he may often be too catholic
In his efforts, Is bound sometimes to kick
a goal from the field of a righteous cause
Therefore, while we do not
lence of your laws and ordinances and the
criminal laxness of their enforcement.
Most of the things which harass and
annoy you could be done away with If
you only knew how well you are protected
by law. But not enforced, you say? Well,
whose fault is it but yours? You have In
fluence. Use it. See to it that deafening
noises and foul odors and unhealtbful prac
tices are stopped.
But, before you attempt to cast out the
mote from the public eye, reflect a little
for fear tbe beam of eelflsbneas ia in your
own eye. Are you maintaining a public
nuisance? Do you practice on your piano
before other people are up and after they
have gone to bed? Is your husband learn
ing to play the flute? Are your children
allowed to run wild and whoop and yell,
regardless of the woman who is writing a
book In the apartment above you? Do you
keep a dog and does be bark with sheer
dog spirits and the delight of living, and
do you encourage him In it, regardless of
the poor spinster within hearing who hate
curs?
If you do any of these things you are not
a good citizen. If your husband does them,
and you do not try to influence him to
desUt, you are not a good citizen. If you
are not training your boys and girls in
tboughtfulness and consideration to tbetr
neighbors and friends; if you do not train
them to stand up for their rights and to
demand that when good laws are enacted
tbey shall be enforced by the weight of a
persevering public opinion, you are lacking
both as mother and aa good citizen; you
are not doing your duty to your children or
to your country or to yourself.
even the chronic kicker comes nearer to
being the Ideal citizen than the meek sheep
of a man who bear all imposition without
protest. '
In the matter of personal rights, nothing
uproarious or unsexlng need be advocated.
A little consideration of the matter and a
little quiet and persistent effort In one'
own immediate circle of friends Is all that
la necessary. The American woman uses
tact with men as naturally as she breathes.
That 1 the reason she get everything she
wants.
First, be sure of the law on the matter.
Never write a letter or utter a public pro
test until you are sure you are within your
rights a bounded by the laws of your
state. You will be amazed at the excel-
Prills of Fashion.
Watch fobs are set with lines of differ
ent seml-preclous stones, tho color of the
gold In tone with the stones.
A handsome ring has for the stone a
large oval canary diamond, the ring Itself
being set solidly with small white dia
monds. A flowered silk petticoat has the ruffle
shaped with tiny tucks, branching out from
the top, there being no extra fullness In
tho flounce, which follows the flare of the
skirt.
Venetian, kid-flnlnhed and aatln-faeed
clothB, cheviot and line camel's hair are to
he used for autumn tailor gowns for shop
ping, promenade and traveling wear.
A huidsome collar with the stole effect
has a solid band of black on the inalile
made of blnck chenille, while around the
edges are chiffon ruffles, edged with more
approve of his of the black chenille, which give the proper
dly claim that e?ct . . ....
r rencn jaciteis 01 ugniweigni coven cioin
are made with doublr-breamed, oeml-loose
fronts, and finished with three graduated
shoulder capes, the roll)f the lining show
ing like a silk or satin piping at the ex
treme edge of each ciipe.
The picture hat Ik still fashionable, but
It must be worn with Judgment. The large
graceful lines of the picture hat, with Its
wide brim and sweeping plumes, can never
properly be worn with anything either
masculine or even severe In style.
For elderly women, besides the array of
handsome gowns, wraps and head wear in
black Bet forth as very desirable, there are
any number of appropriate garments In suft
tints of gray, certain shadr-x of sage, and
very dark green, blue and brown, also in
silk and wool effects, showing n mixture
of several low-toned but very kandHome
dyes. Skirts follow tha exact contour and
effects employed for more young womon.
demt-trat'.is being used for simple house
the street. Tong wraps are deemed moat
appropriate for women past 60.
For and Abont W omen.
Queen Alexandra has a decided fondness
for mauve. She wears It both by day and
evenirrg and has been painted wearing a
mauve gown.
Miss Cheong Chuk Kwan, a rich young
Chinese girl, has starlet on a totir around
the world and on her return to China will
write a book and lecture on what she has
observed.
Miss Marlon Alice Smith, a arandnlece
of Lord Macauley, the historian, whose
home Is In Chicago, will shortly be married
to Thomas Martin O'Connor of New York.
She spent her early childhood In India.
Miss Minnie Sche-nrk of Wllllamsport.
Va... is declared to be champion woman rifle
shot of the world, having Just established
a record of twenty consecutive bnll's-eyes
at 200 yards. Miss Schenck, who uses a 32-
If a child is born especially beautiful, 1 not Its every feature to be considered tbe
smile of love and denote too tbe care and attention the mother bad given ber
throughout the entire period of gestation and childbirth. On the condition of the
mother daring pregnancy depends the nature, temperament, beautv and grace of
the child. Among manifold aids to childbirth MOTHER'S FRIIiIND ha grown
to popularity and gained a prestige among rich women as well as poor; it Is found
and welcomed in the mansion as well as cabin. By lessening the mother's agony
ot mind and diminishing pain a beautiful Influence is wrought upon the child,
and instead of peevish, fil-tempered and sickly forms you hare laughing humanity
that remains a blessing ever alter to you and its country.
1.00 per bottle. DrutgiM nnvVr jrll M.mrr't Frtmd. Try It.
Write tin lor our 'KI"K book Motherhood."
Till irRAnriKI.I) KEIiuLATOK CO. Atlanta, On.
I unoa mim
ssTO
JMlM
. -wi, t.n
FRENCH, STORM COAT.
calloer rifle, is a terror to sparrows. Out
of lifty-slx shots at these marauding birds
In one dHy recently she did not miss once,
using a 22-caliber rifle.
Miss Rose Cleveland, the sister of ex
President Cleveland, Is a successful farmer.
She now owns about one-half of a 70O-acre
island near lslesboro. Me., having within
a few day acquired an additional tract of
land. Miss Cleveland has about S'V) chick
ens, a large herd of cows and a big vege
table garden on her Island, where she raises
prize pumpkins, rat cnicKens and makes
prime dairy butter. She handles her affairs
herself, it Is said, but employs a large force
of men. There Is but one other cottage
on the Island.
Princess Victoria, the 10-year-old daugh
ter of the German emperor. Is said to be n
most haughty little woman, with a very
exalted idea of her position as a royal
princess. She is much beloved by her
father, to whom her imperious manner Is
the source of much amusement. Speaking
o' her to a friend recently the kaiser said:
'Sometimes when miking to me she quite
forgets that 1 am emperor, but I am
confident that she never for one moment
gowns, and a sensible walking length for 'forgets that she is the emperor's daughter,
j24 f ARNAM :T.
Tel. 316.
i
SEPORT TO THE COMPTROLLER OF THE Cl'RRENCY
or THE
United States National Bank of Omaha
At Omaha in the State ef Nebraska, Sept. 15th, 1902.
RESOURCES.
Loans
Real Estate
8Lock, Securities, eto .'...".,
Premiums
Furniture and Fixture ..,
C, 8. Bonds (circulation)..
Cash $43.242.5S
U. 8. Bond.. 100,000.00
Exchange ... 926,816,48
.... 12,827,713.27
100.00
100.00
.... 100.00
100.00
B0.000.00
1,489,058.99
$4,567,172.26
LIABILITIES.
Capital Stock
Surplus
Undivided Profits
Circulation. . . . ..... .
Deposit
400,
1M
in,
.'0,
ooo.o
ooo.o.
35.9
PIM'.t")
3:5.57
"itUiUANT UEAXlY MAD aid."
. $4,567,172.26
M. T. BARLOW, President. V. B. CALDWELL, Cashier.
C. W. HAMILTON. Vice-President. W. E. RHOADES, Ass't Cashier.
A MATCH SCRATCHER
Given free with each bottle of
Pramor'o If irlnoif cmri I iuor Hiiro
uiuiiiui u muiiujf UIIU L.IVUI UUI u
Either the GOe size nt 40o. or the $1.00 size at 00c. Everybody
knows what Cramer's Kidney and Liver Cure is good for, and
we know that it is the only remedy of its kind we ever lizard of
which WE GUARANTEE to do WHAT THE LA I! EL SAYS;
no waiting or excuses if it don't cure Kidney, Mood and Liver
Trouble bring back the empty bottle and get your coin.
Cramer's Kidney and Liver Cure
delivered in Omaha (until further notice)' for 00c and 40c for
$1.00 and 50c sizes, or sent to any out-of-town address, express
prepaid, for $1.00. Genuine for sale at
Schaefer's Gut Price Drug Store
Sixteenth and Chicago Streets.
A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A J0V FOREVER
DR. T. FELIX OOLRAL'D S ORIENTAL
CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAlITIFIER.
Jn. fimii.M.
Moid fkU'l.
Raah an. toMta dl
us, ana evsry
blinih an Wur.
Snd 6rae atc
lion. Ji has stoui
the lest of 4
)irt, kl4 Is M
iitrmltu tails
It to M urs 'I
is proprly mad.
Acctpi oe counter
feit uf Imllsr
HAin. Dr. L. A.
hur raid to s la.
ay ot tn ham-ha
i palicoUt
"A you ladies will use them. I recom
r.ienl UOUHAOU'si chh.AU as thn itnl
harmful of all the bkln iireuarattons. l-ot
al by all Drutstsm and 1'aacy UooJ
Liealers in Iht U. a and Europe.
KKuri. T. IIOI'lilM. I'rop'r.
IT Great Jons sit.. N. T.
SCHOOLS.
The Froebel School
2567 Fa ran in Btrfst. Opened
SEPTEMBER 15, 1902.
Kindergarten (limited) Primary and
Grimmer Grades. A limited number of
children received In the family.
1AHKIET HKLI.ER. Prln.
DRINK
CUKEl l,T
WHIiE RIBLLN REMEDY
No taste. No ouor. Can be given .n glass
of Water, tea, or coffee without patlnl
knowledge
White Rlbton Remedy will rure or de
atroy the diseased appetite for alcohollo
stimulants, whether the patient ia a cin
flrmfd Inebriate a "tippler," social drinker
or drunkard. Impost. hie for anyone to
have an Appetite for alcoholic llq jor a' r
Ufclpg White ftlbhon Kemedy.
Induraril by Blruibrra 01 V. f. T. V.
Mis. Honrs, press sup-rlntnilent of Wo
man a t'hrlailaii remp-rnc-e Union, Ven
tura, ( llfiirnla, writes: "I tave teated,
White Iiibbon Kmely n very obstinate
drunkurd, anJ the curia have been many.
In m;tiy lam ihe Keniedy waa given se
cretly. I rherrf uliy recommend ami indorse
White Klhtxn, Hi'ini-l. Members of our
Tnion are delighted to find ho economical
treatment to aid us In our 'vmperanc
work "
IruKglxia "r by mail, II. Trial package
free by writing Mrs. A M. Townaend i for
years aecretiiiy of a Woman a 4'hrlailau
Temporarr fnloiil. 21S Trrmont bl., lloa
tou, Mi. Bold in Omaha by
SCHAFfcR'S DNuYSioai
tUnA 1. 1 C U rm Kik a a a. .
i Good deltvvrel FltfcaK u ny pan c city.