Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, September 21, 1902, EDITORIAL SHEET, Page 14, Image 14
14 IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. 1 FA I.L ftTll.KS TiKK SIHPE. Soluble Ffatnrn In Uoaks. Uowne, Frorkt and Milliner?. NEW YORK. Srt. 1 The first thin on notices with the new autumn suits 1b a tendency toward braid trimmings and tltrhrd strapping of " nr'"- ,n form the gowns, even the plalneat of them, run 1o eklrtn that train slightly, with a blouse Jscket or Eton roat for the upper garment. Burh tyl'. however, are distinctly for street wear. The dressier frocks, those worn for railing, receptions, the theater, t ihn Mouse or round bodies, made elaborate with einbroiderlea and lace vests. A few coats are en with these very aniart costumes, but the beet of them cren sug gest the round waist, since most of the tall ia In tho rear. One very stunning new coat for tailor frocks shows th close fit and rear cut of a riding Jacket, a long, plain, snugly fitting klrt with thla adding to the horsy look. More glovc-tlght than ever are all skirts t the top, where habit backs, fitting with out a wrinkle and short hip yoke are allstlnctlve features of the newest styles. Some degree of train Is also everywhere observable, but, being less stiffened than formerly, the flouncing bottoms fall wl;h considerably more grace. Another point for congratulation la that the hideous "sym mctrlcals" the Rraphlc stage term which, for a seaaon or more, built out too meager hips, have had their day. The hips of the fashionable woman must look small, whether tbey are or not, and the smaller they look the better. A trio of charming street gowns de lightfully Illustrate these subtle but necea nary points. Two demonstrate the Invad ing hip yoke, which In all cases Is cut short at the back and to dip downward at the front. Never la such a line departed from; , It la Intended that the curve of the yoke must follow that of the girdle, which at the front curves more than ever low. The Sfw Bine. French cloth the sort of broadcloth that has a satiny finish In one of the new blues, composes the more elegant of the three costumes. A very handsome em broidery In blue and black ornaments the blouse waist, but the skirt depends en tirely upon stitched strappings of the same cloth for trimming. These outline a hip yoke and graduated flounce, horizontal bands running between at every narrow gore. At the bottom the gore bands cross the flounce one, the ends pointed and gradu ating Id length, showing longest at the back. With the rich embroidery mentioned more bands appear upon the bodice, shaping a rorst girdle shoulder, caps and cuff bands for the sleeves. The tucked vest Is of white moussellne, creased by narrow string of black panne. These hold together the em broidered blouse fronts, whose splendor Is further emphasized by large buttons of sap phire and silver. A black moussellne cravat smartly swaths the throat and the folded girdle la of the black panne. The aocond gown In point of elegance Is also blue, for blue, you know, Is Fashion's latest caprice. She docs not confine herself to any particular abade, but offers tints for 'every taste, "legitimate" blues our old friends the navy shades and "Illegitimate" ones. If we may use the word, for some of the numberless mad-tinted dyes. The old tlma sky-blue, rebaptlzed azure, Is a favorite color for airy evening gowna, and a new and very eccentr'.o tint is called "'gaslight blue." ' Radiant Colors. Trimmings of black and white deck many of these radiant colors, the combination showing in braids with a tartan weave and checked silks. On a bewitching house gown of pale blue French cashmere, black and white checked silk was used with a sur prisingly smart effect. Also It suggested dazzling possibilities In the way of economy, for such silks are never dear and short remnants In them can alwaya be found. But to return to our second frock, whose texture Is no more than English serge. In a lightweight quality. The unllned skirt is lightly tucked and falls from a scalloped nip yoke over a black taffeta "drop," which, you know, is dressmaker's Jargon for lining. The trimming ia narrow black braid, put on the skirt !s an odd band to simulate a graduated flounce. On the bodice, which goes under tho belt at the back and has loose Eton fronts, the braid is differently disposed A number of rows, closely massed, form a border for the cutout neck and fronta which lap slightly, some scattered ends of braid, finished with heavily embroidered knots, giving the necessary look of relation ship with the skirt. Similar swirls orna ment the drooping puds of the sleeves, whose upper pert Ions more than usually accentuate the present closely at this point. The third gown, though made with leas dressy intention than these two, to the sophisticated mind far surpasses them In dash. Brown and white mottled wool la its ground maaterlal, plain brown cloth bands, with white cloth edges both left raw accomplishing a decoration Infinitely effective. Two of these outline the narrow apron gore or the skirt, two ethers run ning round with a douh'e flounce suggestion swirling oddly at the sides and back. Stylish Coat. An Eton coat is tbe simple upper gar ment, sleeves slightly flowing and fronts lapping diagonally and dropping below the belt in a stylish point. A military looking frogglng Is made across the fronts of tbe coat, which is cut out In the neck after the manner of all of the beet Etons. This the frogglng-ls achieved by a number of short straps with pendant tabs. The French back of the coat shows only two straps, these continuing ovrr the phoulders and down the side fronts sup.iender fashion. All of these gowna are from ready-made models, whereby you may see that the shops are catering more than ever to the demand lor elegance. .cvenncieBS, none oi mfm were very dear. On the contrary, considering they were all built upon silk, they were, aa compared to A SWAGGER RAGLAN. former prices, astonishingly cheap; $60, $49 and $38 were the prices with which they were ticketed. Of even more importance than the gown Is the hat with which beauty will soon crown herself, the whole style of the toilette depending now upon the fitness and becom Ingness of the headpiece. Tbe shape of tola is not necessarily dependent upon the genre of the costume, at Iff severe, effects being seen with the moat frou-frou cos tumes, and some eminently picturesque with the plainest dresses. What is required ia that you get the right thing and wear it rightly, which means that you must conalder your type first of all and the kinks of fashion next. It would be Impossible to detail all the Ins and outs of. the new millinery,, but an exaggerated flatness Is the distinguishing feature of the moat popular models. The brim shapes of the summer very wide at the front and dipping over the face with next to no brim behind, will continue to be worn. With such headgear trimmings mora than ever conform to the lines of the hat. In some cases, indeed, they aeetn part of it, folds of velvet or silk mingling with other folds made in the hat Itself. The aide brims of these flat model curve slightly upward, with puffed and crimped locks only filling out the underspaces. The short backs are met by the coiffure, over which ends, If they are not too long, may dangle. Felta In Vogse. Another very flat hat la a burs low crowned sailor, with a shallow upcurvlng brim. Such styles come In the brilliantly colored felts In vogue, and are seen with wing and ribbon trimmings. The garniture are put on very simply and alwaya with an eye to preserving the flat, pan-affect, for these great round hats are delightfully auggestlve of cake pana. A stylish model In green felt the vivid Patrick green revealed an unusual smart ness In the arrangement of the trimming. White satin ribbon composed this, folded In a narrow crown band and bunched In two huge rosettes, which were placed under the brim, Just back of each ear. A soft bow filled in the back space between these and directly In front of tha hat were two parrot wings In green and blue. These, very narrow and shaply pointed, were inter locked and posed across tha bat In almost straight line. Tha effect was very stylish and simple enough for anybody to fellow. In variety and coloring the range In new hat materials la enormous. Braid hats of several textures sometimes taffeta velvet and chenille combined come In brilliant colore, all trimmings preserving the start ling tint. Again, there will be a hat in shaded colors blues and greens mingled, reds fading to the palest pinks, and purples ending In .violet. Among these nsveltlea, for of course these hat are only novelties, Are Unequalled In DESICN ArWstla ornamentation, beauty of outline anil barmonioua proportions. FINISH-3'noothnet of easkiags, perfect fittings and nickeled parts. CONVENIENCE-Th aieny labor-saving devices which W . ihfir uxtt a xl4uart. ECO NOT." Y- Sciert:?. eout.Tict.oo that secant beat results w:l!i I.W V i a. ). P U 3 A LI T Y i-c,l.:4 quality rctxlerinj fow repairs nectary. Evtry ,OARlAN0 Sold with a Written Guaranty by LwduiJ Merchants Throughout tha Country. PrUes mail Uam 13 is IM. Sals' ty Prat rcaaive Steve fterckaats Everyvkare, Mad only Largest 11 n V" tm nism. MMWrrHKuhiitwtlifautt Every esu. ". by The Michigan Stove Company, M t Makers of S loves and Ranges in the Worki, s For sals bi Milto.i Rjzers & Sons Co . 14th an. Farnam Streets- are some little toques made of velvet autumn leaves, which rcsplendent'y set off plain tailor frocks. Large plume trimmed hat are seen among the finer toppings, the shapes suggesting the old Gainsborough without being as large. These will be worn very much on the side of the head, as If they were ready to fall off, in fact. Other brim hats, those evenly balanced in shape and trimming, will continue to sit the hea.l squarely, with the downward dip over the face. Imported Coat. Early Importations In coals show that they are to be In many lengths. The models the shops are taking to are mainly of the three-quarter variety, with loose back, open sleeves and many variations of tho strap trimming. These are not universally becoming, though there Is no doubt but that they arc very convenient styles. More effective and decidedly more ele gant are certain little French coals which suggest capes. These drop Just below the waist at the back, the scallop rounding up till the front Is a mere nothing. One beautiful tucked model In euch a roat gave a clever woman an Idea for making over an old bisque cloth cape. First, an entire coat of Ivory white taffeta waa cut, with flowing sleeve coming short of the wrist. Then all over thla tho bisque cloth waa sewed In circular bands about two Inches wide, the effect at the finish closely resembling tucking. The trimming of the old cape, a black chenille and steel embroidery, was used for a deep collar. with the Bteel picked out and the Injured places covered with leaf applications of black velvet. Last, but not leant, flouting scarf ends of black silk muslin were added to the front. These ruffled at the bottoms and tied at the bust In a graceful bow. Many of the now styles give Ideas for the making over of garments, the sklrta with tip-gore and narrow breadths being especially suggestive. For these almost any skirt of the last three seasons can' be used, as It la quite within the province of fashion to have both tho yoke and the flounce In a contrasting material. With black cloth any figured taffeta in a smart dealgn can be used, this shaping the hip gore, tbe flounce and bodice proper. For the rest of the gown, the middle skirt and bolero jacket, use the cloth, first seeing that it is well cleaned and pressed. MARY DEAN. (W SMART AUTUMN HATS. WOMB AS KKKHnS. Can They Accomplish Wonder If Kirk Wisely and Well. The women of America need no advice from any one. on moral 'questions, ays the Saturday Evening Post. Witness what the power of women did In a southern state campaign against a congrefsman who had been proved of unfit character to represent an upright body of people, and later what women did in a national fight against a western congressman who reckoned their, power so little that be even attempted to take his seat In congress In defiance of public opinion. Everybody admit that those two lustancea represent a fight of two men against the women of America, and who won? That shows what women can do, and It ha never been alleged that In either Instance any woman went out aide of her woman' sphere or was un womanly In any effort aha made In the cause of pure representation and good gov ernment. A senseless and ridiculous system of "kicking" against everything and every body Is not urged. The chronic complalner 1 a nuisance to himself as well aa to his neighbor, although, If he were forced to choose between tbe chronic "kicker" and the chronic lambs of a citizen who bears all municipal injustice patiently and who meets all attempt at reform with the watchword, "Don't make a fuss about It," we should choose a kicker. For a chronic kicker, though he may often be too catholic In his efforts, Is bound sometimes to kick a goal from the field of a righteous cause Therefore, while we do not lence of your laws and ordinances and the criminal laxness of their enforcement. Most of the things which harass and annoy you could be done away with If you only knew how well you are protected by law. But not enforced, you say? Well, whose fault is it but yours? You have In fluence. Use it. See to it that deafening noises and foul odors and unhealtbful prac tices are stopped. But, before you attempt to cast out the mote from the public eye, reflect a little for fear tbe beam of eelflsbneas ia in your own eye. Are you maintaining a public nuisance? Do you practice on your piano before other people are up and after they have gone to bed? Is your husband learn ing to play the flute? Are your children allowed to run wild and whoop and yell, regardless of the woman who is writing a book In the apartment above you? Do you keep a dog and does be bark with sheer dog spirits and the delight of living, and do you encourage him In it, regardless of the poor spinster within hearing who hate curs? If you do any of these things you are not a good citizen. If your husband does them, and you do not try to influence him to desUt, you are not a good citizen. If you are not training your boys and girls in tboughtfulness and consideration to tbetr neighbors and friends; if you do not train them to stand up for their rights and to demand that when good laws are enacted tbey shall be enforced by the weight of a persevering public opinion, you are lacking both as mother and aa good citizen; you are not doing your duty to your children or to your country or to yourself. even the chronic kicker comes nearer to being the Ideal citizen than the meek sheep of a man who bear all imposition without protest. ' In the matter of personal rights, nothing uproarious or unsexlng need be advocated. A little consideration of the matter and a little quiet and persistent effort In one' own immediate circle of friends Is all that la necessary. The American woman uses tact with men as naturally as she breathes. That 1 the reason she get everything she wants. First, be sure of the law on the matter. Never write a letter or utter a public pro test until you are sure you are within your rights a bounded by the laws of your state. You will be amazed at the excel- Prills of Fashion. Watch fobs are set with lines of differ ent seml-preclous stones, tho color of the gold In tone with the stones. A handsome ring has for the stone a large oval canary diamond, the ring Itself being set solidly with small white dia monds. A flowered silk petticoat has the ruffle shaped with tiny tucks, branching out from the top, there being no extra fullness In tho flounce, which follows the flare of the skirt. Venetian, kid-flnlnhed and aatln-faeed clothB, cheviot and line camel's hair are to he used for autumn tailor gowns for shop ping, promenade and traveling wear. A huidsome collar with the stole effect has a solid band of black on the inalile made of blnck chenille, while around the edges are chiffon ruffles, edged with more approve of his of the black chenille, which give the proper dly claim that e?ct . . .... r rencn jaciteis 01 ugniweigni coven cioin are made with doublr-breamed, oeml-loose fronts, and finished with three graduated shoulder capes, the roll)f the lining show ing like a silk or satin piping at the ex treme edge of each ciipe. The picture hat Ik still fashionable, but It must be worn with Judgment. The large graceful lines of the picture hat, with Its wide brim and sweeping plumes, can never properly be worn with anything either masculine or even severe In style. For elderly women, besides the array of handsome gowns, wraps and head wear in black Bet forth as very desirable, there are any number of appropriate garments In suft tints of gray, certain shadr-x of sage, and very dark green, blue and brown, also in silk and wool effects, showing n mixture of several low-toned but very kandHome dyes. Skirts follow tha exact contour and effects employed for more young womon. demt-trat'.is being used for simple house the street. Tong wraps are deemed moat appropriate for women past 60. For and Abont W omen. Queen Alexandra has a decided fondness for mauve. She wears It both by day and evenirrg and has been painted wearing a mauve gown. Miss Cheong Chuk Kwan, a rich young Chinese girl, has starlet on a totir around the world and on her return to China will write a book and lecture on what she has observed. Miss Marlon Alice Smith, a arandnlece of Lord Macauley, the historian, whose home Is In Chicago, will shortly be married to Thomas Martin O'Connor of New York. She spent her early childhood In India. Miss Minnie Sche-nrk of Wllllamsport. Va... is declared to be champion woman rifle shot of the world, having Just established a record of twenty consecutive bnll's-eyes at 200 yards. Miss Schenck, who uses a 32- If a child is born especially beautiful, 1 not Its every feature to be considered tbe smile of love and denote too tbe care and attention the mother bad given ber throughout the entire period of gestation and childbirth. On the condition of the mother daring pregnancy depends the nature, temperament, beautv and grace of the child. Among manifold aids to childbirth MOTHER'S FRIIiIND ha grown to popularity and gained a prestige among rich women as well as poor; it Is found and welcomed in the mansion as well as cabin. By lessening the mother's agony ot mind and diminishing pain a beautiful Influence is wrought upon the child, and instead of peevish, fil-tempered and sickly forms you hare laughing humanity that remains a blessing ever alter to you and its country. 1.00 per bottle. DrutgiM nnvVr jrll M.mrr't Frtmd. Try It. Write tin lor our 'KI"K book Motherhood." Till irRAnriKI.I) KEIiuLATOK CO. Atlanta, On. I unoa mim ssTO JMlM . -wi, t.n FRENCH, STORM COAT. calloer rifle, is a terror to sparrows. Out of lifty-slx shots at these marauding birds In one dHy recently she did not miss once, using a 22-caliber rifle. Miss Rose Cleveland, the sister of ex President Cleveland, Is a successful farmer. She now owns about one-half of a 70O-acre island near lslesboro. Me., having within a few day acquired an additional tract of land. Miss Cleveland has about S'V) chick ens, a large herd of cows and a big vege table garden on her Island, where she raises prize pumpkins, rat cnicKens and makes prime dairy butter. She handles her affairs herself, it Is said, but employs a large force of men. There Is but one other cottage on the Island. Princess Victoria, the 10-year-old daugh ter of the German emperor. Is said to be n most haughty little woman, with a very exalted idea of her position as a royal princess. She is much beloved by her father, to whom her imperious manner Is the source of much amusement. Speaking o' her to a friend recently the kaiser said: 'Sometimes when miking to me she quite forgets that 1 am emperor, but I am confident that she never for one moment gowns, and a sensible walking length for 'forgets that she is the emperor's daughter, j24 f ARNAM :T. Tel. 316. i SEPORT TO THE COMPTROLLER OF THE Cl'RRENCY or THE United States National Bank of Omaha At Omaha in the State ef Nebraska, Sept. 15th, 1902. RESOURCES. Loans Real Estate 8Lock, Securities, eto .'..."., Premiums Furniture and Fixture .., C, 8. Bonds (circulation).. Cash $43.242.5S U. 8. Bond.. 100,000.00 Exchange ... 926,816,48 .... 12,827,713.27 100.00 100.00 .... 100.00 100.00 B0.000.00 1,489,058.99 $4,567,172.26 LIABILITIES. Capital Stock Surplus Undivided Profits Circulation. . . . ..... . Deposit 400, 1M in, .'0, ooo.o ooo.o. 35.9 PIM'.t") 3:5.57 "itUiUANT UEAXlY MAD aid." . $4,567,172.26 M. T. BARLOW, President. V. B. CALDWELL, Cashier. C. W. HAMILTON. Vice-President. W. E. RHOADES, Ass't Cashier. A MATCH SCRATCHER Given free with each bottle of Pramor'o If irlnoif cmri I iuor Hiiro uiuiiiui u muiiujf UIIU L.IVUI UUI u Either the GOe size nt 40o. or the $1.00 size at 00c. Everybody knows what Cramer's Kidney and Liver Cure is good for, and we know that it is the only remedy of its kind we ever lizard of which WE GUARANTEE to do WHAT THE LA I! EL SAYS; no waiting or excuses if it don't cure Kidney, Mood and Liver Trouble bring back the empty bottle and get your coin. Cramer's Kidney and Liver Cure delivered in Omaha (until further notice)' for 00c and 40c for $1.00 and 50c sizes, or sent to any out-of-town address, express prepaid, for $1.00. Genuine for sale at Schaefer's Gut Price Drug Store Sixteenth and Chicago Streets. A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A J0V FOREVER DR. T. FELIX OOLRAL'D S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAlITIFIER. Jn. fimii.M. Moid fkU'l. Raah an. toMta dl us, ana evsry blinih an Wur. Snd 6rae atc lion. Ji has stoui the lest of 4 )irt, kl4 Is M iitrmltu tails It to M urs 'I is proprly mad. Acctpi oe counter feit uf Imllsr HAin. Dr. L. A. hur raid to s la. ay ot tn ham-ha i palicoUt "A you ladies will use them. I recom r.ienl UOUHAOU'si chh.AU as thn itnl harmful of all the bkln iireuarattons. l-ot al by all Drutstsm and 1'aacy UooJ Liealers in Iht U. a and Europe. KKuri. T. IIOI'lilM. I'rop'r. IT Great Jons sit.. N. T. SCHOOLS. The Froebel School 2567 Fa ran in Btrfst. Opened SEPTEMBER 15, 1902. Kindergarten (limited) Primary and Grimmer Grades. A limited number of children received In the family. 1AHKIET HKLI.ER. Prln. DRINK CUKEl l,T WHIiE RIBLLN REMEDY No taste. No ouor. Can be given .n glass of Water, tea, or coffee without patlnl knowledge White Rlbton Remedy will rure or de atroy the diseased appetite for alcohollo stimulants, whether the patient ia a cin flrmfd Inebriate a "tippler," social drinker or drunkard. Impost. hie for anyone to have an Appetite for alcoholic llq jor a' r Ufclpg White ftlbhon Kemedy. Induraril by Blruibrra 01 V. f. T. V. Mis. Honrs, press sup-rlntnilent of Wo man a t'hrlailaii remp-rnc-e Union, Ven tura, ( llfiirnla, writes: "I tave teated, White Iiibbon Kmely n very obstinate drunkurd, anJ the curia have been many. In m;tiy lam ihe Keniedy waa given se cretly. I rherrf uliy recommend ami indorse White Klhtxn, Hi'ini-l. Members of our Tnion are delighted to find ho economical treatment to aid us In our 'vmperanc work " IruKglxia "r by mail, II. Trial package free by writing Mrs. A M. Townaend i for years aecretiiiy of a Woman a 4'hrlailau Temporarr fnloiil. 21S Trrmont bl., lloa tou, Mi. Bold in Omaha by SCHAFfcR'S DNuYSioai tUnA 1. 1 C U rm Kik a a a. . i Good deltvvrel FltfcaK u ny pan c city.