Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, August 24, 1902, EDITORIAL SHEET, Page 12, Image 12
j- TTTK OMAHA DA1LT BEE: SUNDAY, AUGUST 24, 1902. . IN THE DOMAIN Of WOMAN. FAtlllOXS BETWEEX gBASO!. Fny Untten i oay Among the Certainties la Sta-at, NEW YORK, Aug. 12. Entirely new styles are Impossible at this moment. Mid ma Mod being aa yet In the brooding stage which precedes her reTolutlonlsIng actlvtt. Not before October will alt the autumn chicks of fashion be hatched, and meanwhile It Is to variations on the old ef tecte that we must turn. There are new stuffs in plenty In the mar ket some toft wools. In rich enamel-like blues, among the Importations but no made-up things as yet distinctly original, The influences of old beauties are aeen everywhere, many aklrts still showing the horlsontal lucks and circular flounces of the summer. Sleeve are only shade more picturesque, and taffeta and plain cloth bands are still conspicuoua trimmings. A slight change is accomplished In the cloth decorations by now shaping the pieces oddly and putting them on In fantastlo ways. For Instance, the old, straight band ing Is varied by long, slender, half-moons, circular bauds which cross In sword points somewhere on the skirt, and narrow strip pat on In Irregular bars. Thee last form patches at the bottom of gored aklrts, the wide space between being, of course, un trlmmed. The new outing suits especially show these odd cloth trimmings, which may have contraatlng atltchlngs or pipings of differ ent colored silk. Tiny silk-covered button ' also sometime outline the cloth banda, while bigger buttons of the same sort will trim the blouse Jacket of the suit, ,' tannine Uowni, A batch of stunning gowns lately shipped to Newport for golfing and outing purposes stylishly Illustrate some of the late meth ods of trimming. A very fetching rig was made of green and white mottled tweed, with stitched bands of the same. On the skirt the decoration took the form of nar row vertical strips, crossed at the flounce quarter by a band made of short, wide pieces, with one end pointed. The blouse bodice was cut with a short tall and girdled Norfolk fashion with a stitched belt. One pretty gown of red and green striped golfing , cloth depended entirely upon a novel yoke for ornament. Four deeply pointed V's distinguished this, one falling at the back of the round bodice, one at the front and one over each shoulder. The yoke waa of bright scarlet cloth, stitched with green, and the plain ankle-length skirt flared smartly at the bottom. None of the new outing skirts are very short, which makes It possible for their lucky owners to bring them In town tor rainy-day use. During the cool, cloudy weather of the last month Broadway fairly blossomed with smart outing frocks, the leaders ot the haut ton setting the fashion and the rest of the sensible world following it. Society does humanity a good turn sometimes, and surely, to Inculcate neat, rainy-day attire Is aometblng that may be reckoned among philanthropic deeds. Until the smart people give up the tip we are all poor cowards. Many of the blouse Jackets 'of these trig suits show short tails, and If there are no. tails elsewhere, those who like a rear fin-' leh still ojlng to the postillion tat. -Many double-breast slightly, the lap being widest at th bust and' narrowing to a point at in waist. uieeve tor the heavier ma terials, such as golfing cloth, tweed and covert, are always "coat" shape and loos ; In fit. Other sleeves run to small' bishop j models and all of the thinner textiles are . lined with brilliantly colored silks. Stitch ing, in grouped rows, Is a favorite orna mentation, as well as collar and cuffs In :a contrasting velvet, while a touch of blight color, even If It Is only In the double ; faolng of th goods. Is considered indie ' pensabl for smartness. Owl In Hat. A to outing hats, it Is quite plain that the best dressed women go to the man milliner for their millinery. Even the moat carefully contrived headgear of the .feminine modiste lacks the trim tautnesa I accomplished By masculine fingers. So It is to the "hatter" that you must go for your outing cbapean. whether it la for golf ing, mountain climbing or what not. Cer tain little sailor shapes shown by the people, In bright red brush felt, are very charming. Scarfs of whit or red Liberty gauie, and white or red wings, trim these effectively, the scarf end sometimes bunch ing under the back brim, but never falling In the long ends seen elsewhere. Indeed, this back cascading of hat trimmings Is everywhere on th wane, having been don ;to death by exaggeration carried beyond point of reason or beauty. Noticeable, garments among first antuma fineries are the long coat stylish woman ,ar wearing for railway and sea traveling. Made of brilllantlne. gloria and taffeta, thea long, loose wraps entirely cover th costum. supplying' in themselves a toilet s elegant as dashing. Two lately turned out by a New York falseus of modish cllen telle for a .Lenox beauty embodied points the seeker after traveling coats would do ,well to consider. "Duster" was the homely and familiar nam given to on. This was ef dull red brlUiantln. with black atltch lngs, black and red bone buttons and black satin facings for ornament. The satin took the shape of a narrow rolling collar runnlnt; down lq facing for the fronts; the bottoms ef the wide sleeves, with oddly shaped , bishop pulls at the Inner arm and flowed plain at the back, wer also faced with this and turned over. Stitched epaulette bands, beld down' by the buttons, crossed the Shoulders, two shorter ones, with the same pointed ends, serving as front fastenings- Ivy green covert cloth realised the c ni eoat, which sported a short cape collar, trimmed at the top line with a black taf feta band with diamond atone ends. Tucked green silk filled In the center of these ends, whose bias black border, as well aa the band about the shoulders, was dotted with small green and black button. Larger buttons held the double-breasted fronts to gether and fastened a stitched flap at the outside of the bishop sleeves. Novel feature with tola coat war a pair of graduated bog pleats running down each side ot th front, with stitched edges, and th way th neck was arranged. , There was sbtolutely no collar. The neck was cut out a little below the stock line and finished with s blsck taffeta pip ing. The fronts crossed with a el lint surplice suggestion, end the throat ease allowed by the whole arrangement seemed a great relief after the high collars with which w have been so long affile ted. Fancy Bnttoa. Advices from Paris state that fancy but ton will be once more used as a trim ming. A colored plat with painted de signs sent over for mercantile Inspection likewise revealed the fact that they will be huge in size. One sort Is called th pompadour, this being no more than a wooden mold covered with pale silks thick ribbon and you will have a sweet a little dree as you would wish. For morning housewear any of the sum mer challies that havs not too much white re admirable purchases and anything with scarlet la a good choice. A clever woman ha even chosen one of the scarlet and whit challle for afternoon wear, making the skirt in three scant flounce sections with wide scarlet ribbon borders. On the round bodice, which buttoned at the back, some cheap ecru lacs fashioned quit a resplendent yoke and lower sleeve portions. For autumn and winter evening wear Informal dances and dinners the fancy Swisses are charming. And for these there are any number of cheap flowered ribbons and inexpensive dentelles, which, tastefully disposed, would give th desired "creation" look to the coarsest Swiss. of any time which can be called dull, for tny patron are almost all business women who are in town even la summer, except for three or four weeks' holiday." WOME ARB AT A PRRMIIM. Great Seertnre ef the Fair Ones la the South African State. South Africa presents sn Inviting Held for women who are weary of single blessed ness, for there is a great shortage of fair ones In that part of the world. The de ficiency of women In Cap Colony In 1899 amounted to 14.925. So far as can be learned the excess In numbers of white males over white females in British South Africa Is represented In the following table: Cape Colony lS.nno Natal v. , 6.0"10 Orange River Colony I.ftX) Transvaal 43.000 Rhodesia a.ouo Total shortage of females 89,000 "In a population of white only number ing about 800,000 in all, this deficiency of women seem at first sight almost Incred ible," say a writer, "and It Is th more remarkable and deplorable Inasmuch aa be- the dree, of taffeta, or foulard, or chiffon have lately yielded place to those of passe menterle and ailken fringe. Appliques of Mark velvet combined with laro are very pretty Indeed on light ma terials. On short-back sailor bats, with the broad rolling brim curving downward over the Tare, scarf of either dotted India mull or chiffon, and fancy white breasts flecked with bits of black plumage, are popular for morning wear, ana also ror goir, yacnting and similar uses. Fure white crests, wings and quills are aleo favored for the summer rough rider, sailor, shepherdess and other nais worn witn snirt waist coetumes, All sorts of storking are fashionable witn dress Shoes and slippers this season. the one restriction regarding them being that Ibey must match the tie or slipper in nun shade. and openwork hose are sl ays In good taste and for those who de sire something more fanciful there are lace enrruated, embroidered, tnorn-etltched beaded and even hand nslnted atorklnaa whlrh for elaborateness and expense keep fnce wun ine newest or tne rencn even ng dresses. lth day gowns and dressy afternoon toilets are worn the smart Russian calf Oxfor tie with arched Instep, Cuban heel and tasseled ribbon fastening; the three strapped sandal with modified Louis XIV heel, the buckled colonlnl tie of polished French kid and the Bernhardt model of nun-nninsnea ma, with an odd heel that presents a combination of the Cuban and the Louis Qulnse. This tie has a seam down the center of the vamp and Is very high-cut over the Instep. For evening wear NEWPORT GOLFING SUITS. with rich embroideries. Black silk but tons with whit lace covers will also ap pear In discreet .numbers, and big lacs cscs Ja h!t fire t!r.y nnnri n on ths more elegant evening wraps. One bewitching evening coat seen in a Waldorf parlor displayed two black and whits lace buttons at the bust as big as butter plates. The cost was ef heavy whits lace applied to opaline chiffon, black chiffon ruffles between others of pale pink, blue, yellow and green, making a thick ruchlng for the bottom and fronts. Ths wide flowing sleeves only showed the opaline lining, - but the narrow surpllos cape, which gave the shoulders a droop ing effect, was bordered with ths ruches. The colonial shoes which so lately rained upon th world are no longer th beloved of fashion. For smart wear she now decree high heeled . kid slippers- Spanish heel and nothing else with on or three straps fastening over the Instep, Th fanciest footgear Is worn la the street, even beaded toes and vamps , with lace Insets being allowed. Then when the flouncing skirt Is lifted there Is a To accomplish a creation you must not merely follow ths fashions. You must be Individual somewhere, unique, rare, and yt not ClI. ArtA . mnrrmm ihrnt yo'! am wearing a creation Is to suggest heaven to the envious. MARY DEAN. ODD OCCUPATION! FOR WOMEN. is?3 RED MOHAIR TRAVELING "DUSTER." bewildering display of gay stockings, for never were stockings gayer than new. Barataln Tlnae. Ths woman on economic bent will do well to visit the big shops, where Just now left-over summer textiles are being sold for a song. However much 1 said te the contrary. Madam Mode is not so changeable lady, and with Judicious choosing many of these stuffs can be made to do service for seversl summers to come. Than all the t amine and wool canvases which are Included la th bargain sale will make up Into charming winter bou gowns, with, whit vest end undersleeves for gala effecta. Look for sapphire blue stamina and make the unilned gored skirt with a bunch ot wlds tacks striking ibout the knee. Then top aa eeru embroidered batiste waist with a short-tucktd bolero of the etamlne and wear a stock and belt of apple-green Is an ordeal which all women approach with indescribable fear, fnr 0 VuWTEflEIR , . child-birth. The thought f the guttering and danger in store for her, roba the expectant mother of all pleasant anticipations of the coming event, and casts over her a shadow of glooim which cannot be shaken off. Thousands of women have found that the use of Mother's Friend during pregnancy roba confinement of all paia and danger, and insures safety to life of motkv and child. This scientific liniment is a god-send to all women at the time of their most critical trial. Not only does- Mother's Friend cairy women safely through the perils of child-birth, but its use gently prepares the system for the coming1 event, prevents "morninc sickne&s," and other Cis- " " fl.oo per bottle. 1W tami na containing valuable information free. - ...... .. ll,fnia ibc craaneid Keguiator to., Atlaata, , Hovel Fens ef Shopnlna; Commie slon Operated la Philadelphia. A woman In Philadelphia Is making a comfortable Income for herself by a novel phase of "shopping on commission." As a matter ot fact, shs does no shopping of any kind herself, but shs Is registered at all the first-class stores as a professional shopping agent and get 10 per cent commission n all goods purchased there In her name. She began ' business In a modest way, having saved $250, which shs entered as security at one department store as a start. Now her business has grown to such proportions that shs has obtained credit at many shops and will take no more patrons upon her list - inia list contains ths names or women drawing fair salaries In almost svery pro fession and field of endeavor open to the business woman of today. Each patron fur nlshes the agent with satisfactory references aa to her reliability, and 1 thereupon given a list ot the store at which th agent has accounts and receives permission to buy goods at any of these in the agent's name and charge them to ber. If a large article, such as a piece of fur niture. Is bought the agent will accompany the patron and arrange to havs It sent at once to Its final destination. But ordinarily the patron goes shopping any day ahe wishes and allows ths packages to ee sent to ths agent's house, where she calls for them later. Ths agent keeps strict account of everything bought by each patron when and where purchased. At the end of each month she pay up her bills at all the stores promptly. In the meantime her patrons are returning her the money they owe In weekly Install menu varying from SO cents to several dot lars, according to th whole amount due. In addition to this each patron pays th agsnt 10 per cent ot ths amount advancsd for her in return for th accommodation. Thus the agent makes 20 per cent 10 from th store at which It I procured and 10 from the wemsn who ordered It. She doe sot. how. ever, lead an idle life, evea though ah does no shopping for her money. At present her list of patron number 600 and this entails uch, aa amount ot bookkeeping that she U obliged to have the services of an assistant tor th work. "Th woman who would make a success ot this credit system," th originator of th scheme said in speaking of ber work, "must be ons ot shrewd business ability, no nerves and not too much heart. Then are a great many dishonest people In this world. Onesoon learns that. In spits of the trouble I take te assure myself of the reliability ot every ons I take upon my list, not half ot them pay up a thsy should. There I no end to the tricks which even the women holding th most responsible position will play one. And you have to be on the alert and con stantly Investigate, or they may loae their positions and afterwards run up large bills with yeu without mentioning the fact. Then you have to call week after week on some of them to collect what is owing you. When this happens ence with any patron, however, I promptly drop her name from my list after collecting ths first amount due. It doesn't pay to deal with such people, no matter how many customers one losee. There are always plenty more to take their place. I have as many all the time as I caa possibly ac commodate aad dosess waiting. "It is a business which pays splendidly It condacted om strictly business princi ples. On a bill amounting te $15 I ask $5 down, and the remaining $20, with the $2 added as commission, is paid In weekly in stallments et $2 each. So I gala 20 per rent on the money advanced la eleven weeks' tins. That la at ths rat of 15 per cent on every dollar Invested for the ;-ar. "Last Christmas time I netted over $1,000. I have te limit all nty patron to a certain amount during December or the bills which the stores woulj sut on Jan uary 1 would be more than I could atand for. I never allow my patron unlimited credit at aay time. I regulate th maxi mum amount for which caa draw poa me according te her work or posi tion. "Ths spring season, wbea the womea lay la their summer wardrobes, is another rush season with ms. Indeed, I don't know yond a doubt the greater part of the de ficiency exists among the British section of the population." It seems that about one man In every tour of the British In South Africa could never hope to find a wife, whether Dutch or English, before the war. The actual disproportion in the im mediate future will be far greater. No scheme of Angllflcatlon In South Africa, the writer points out, can be ef fective which neglects the Inevitable conse quence of a lack of women. . The - Boer women are gaining upon the British at the rate of about 1,000 a year. If an organiza tion were created which would Insure the dispatch of J.OOO women from ths United Klngdoni In each year 1,000 -would be set oft against the natural tncrsass ot ths Boer women and th remaining 1,000 would. .go these ties are designed In all kind of delicate silks, suedes and dressed kids, but it requires a perfectly formed foot to either comfortably or gracefully- wear this kind of shoe. For aad About Women. Mrs. Edmund Rice, wife of the colonel of the Twenty-sixth regiment of volunteers, has nut In a claim ot the War department for $1,000,000, alleged to be due aa royalty on a device for rolling up and carrying shelter tent used by the army since the civil war. Miss Elisabeth Marbury, the American dramatic agent, has received another honor in France, that of betna promoted from ih. rank of chevalier to that of officer of publlo Instruction, by special order of President ijuuei. neroieu, tne noted playwright, presented the Insignia, ornamented with rubles and diamonds, and Bardou made the i-ungraiuuigry speecn. Mrs. Bridget French,' said to have been the originator of more Inventions than any jinn n Edison and Columbia PHONOGRAPHS Wholesale mid Retail. AGENTS WANTED 12,(X0 Latest and Most Popular Records to Select from. giMfaon RUNABOUTS STANHOPES Finest Assortment ol Depot Wagons, Stanhopes Surreys, Phaetons, Business Wagons in Omaha. AUTOMOBILES Gasoline, 8team and Electrle carried In stock. BICYCLES A special reduction on everything. TTSS '' "'ag 3. E SEnasnsS 15th and Capitol Ave., Omaha. SCHOOLS. I 1 i CHICAGO MUSICAL COLLEGE i I established 1807. Or. t. Zlegfeld, Pree. - College Building:, 202 Michigan Blvd., Chicago, III.' The urcest and most complete ' Collage of Music and Dramatic Art In America. .iill.-'llcaS0 S.u,.l.cal t.eK" Building Is the finest structure In existence devoted exoln slvely to an Institution of Its kind. The system of instruction and arrangement of oounes represent the remilt of thlrty-slg years' experience. " The faculty Is the strongest ever assembled In any college of muilOfU learning and numbers flfty-flve members. u rramriig r . a.i- ELOCUTIOI, Uy nn M School of Optra, KodsTO Lingniges. I Dr. P. Zlegfeld William Castle) Rudolph Ganz Felix Bot-owsk.1 BOARD OP MUSIC!. DIRSOTORei Dr. Louis Talk Hans Von Schiller Bernhard Llstemann S. C Jacobeohn Herman Devrles 'Edmond Vergnet Hart Conway,. Director School of Acting. aoajown Vkkhnbt the worid-iamous inoor, who crewed the lending venor roiee in nam Saeni' bsmson and Delilah and Massenet's Uerodlade, for the pant tlve years instructor of lTXTjtl7f&li& Pr" rrcchGover?: 37th SEASON BECIXS SEPTEMBER 8. New Illustrated Oatalogu Mall Free. I I mm mmmmmmm 9 wxmmmauum m 1 1 iiwisii in nam gn ang NOT K A rrllna.tlnn for th f m nnH tui nowiai unkniu. 1 1 Until AugUBt.30. " . . w aw. 'wiu rcccivea TRAVELING COAT OF IVT GREEN COVERT CLOTH WITH BLACK TAFFETA TRIMMINGS. toward filling up th shortage which exist, and this would be accomplished In thirty Ave years, or on generation. Frills r New fancies In handkerchiefs show em broidery in delicate colors of vines and flcwers. Silver tlu-j la th beet passible back ground for beautiful lace, with a layer of tulle between, often edged with shaded chiffon. Surplice corsages, French bascjutnes, kilted skirts, hip yokes and peplum styles and overdress are to be worn on fall aud winter gown. Very few skirts are to be lined this sea son and many will be mounted on to yoke banda to aecure the symmetery which fash ion Inalsts shall prevail about the hips. Among the artistic trimmings for the early autumn are the Falstaff neck ruches with AtU stole ends and large Cromwell rape collar of point d VenUe or Vandyke lace. Gown of white muslin are enhanced with insertion ot mm followed by iimid lace, end the fancy this year for mounting such dreeaes over chirron attuv liuiun v tsft silk lends much to their effect. "Venetian pink" is the name of a new rculisr and to some people very becoming shade of rose that will appear among vvl eu, chiffons and ribbons for collars, bowa, choux aad millinery uaes. . The tassel la much In evidence and dangle irom scarf, sash, -belt and coat. The taasvls made of the same materials a other woman, la dead at Rochester, N. T., aged 72 years. She was the Inventor of thirty-six devices, holding patents for them. The most Important was the French burglar proof lock, from which she got consider able money. Mrs. French was born In Ireland in I&30 and when 30 years old came to this country, settling In Rochester, where she lived until her death. Henry P. Blackwell says that there are In Huston 18,du0 women taxpayers, who last year paid taxes on real estate In that city valued at f 1dU.uuO.OoO, "but who are not per mitted any vole or vote In city affairs." About one-seventh of sll the taxes collected In Boiton, he adds, are paid by these un represented women property owners, while, on the other hand, some ia.ouo men, or more than two-thirds of the city's present voters, pay no tax whatever not even the poll taxes, for which they are legally liable. Miss Minnie Bronson has been appointed superintendent ot elementary and eecoiuisry education at the Louisiana Purchase exp altion in St. Louis. For ten years Miss Uroimon taught mathematics In the ft. 1'aul (Minn.) High school; In UU ahe be came nxal assistant to Howard J. Rogers, director In the department of education and social economy of the I'nlted Stales com mission at the "f arts exposition. In the year neceaeary for the proper preparation of the educational exhibit Mle lironson eoiteo nineteen monographs on "xwiucauon In the I'nlted fitatea, under the direction of It. Nicholas Murray Butler, by the ablest educators of the United States. At the close of tne exposition Miss k ronton was appointed to arrange for the transfer of the exhibit of the department of social economy to Buffalo for the Pan-American and was assistant superintendent of the department of liberal arts, with special charge of the educaiiuuai exhibition. i BROWNELL HAtL. Are11 'lulPPel school for girls. Qraciriate of Vassar college, Radcllff college i? V..0"1""". cp"f B? ot RalUroore. tho University of Nebraaka. and the University of Chicago, included In the corps of Instructors for "19u23. Musle. art nd the ! modern languages taught by -women of extended residence In- European capital under the Instruction of the beet masters. Gives good, general education and pre pares for any college open to womm. Principal a certificate admits to college, bpeclal attention to the development of individuality and also' te development of f er"?,J?f oclal responsibility. Thoroughness insisted upon a essential to charac ter building. Out-door sports and a large, new sunny , gymnasium equipped with Swedish apparatus. Physical training dally under the direction of a profeeslonal instructor. Ilanpy home life. Terms moderate. Send for catalogue. Address Mius Macrae. Principal, Omaha. . . , DVORA. Dramatic School BnWAttO DVORAK, Director. Kimball Hall, 243 WabubT, Chicago. ACTING ELOCUTION FALL. TERM UBGrVS 81T. e Catalog Mailed Free. SGI1Q0L BILLS REDUCED ApacI&I Information and rahtitM nn farhonl fM cured for limited number ot utudent in each of ral hunrlrfHf feH-irtafc at that hiaheMt LHmllnar. located In all part of th country ;CoUfff, Young Leiri.e' Bord)nf School: Military BrbooU: tVhooto or law, MedlflDA, iw-mti-try. Pharmacy, Biwrm-, Mt r. in w inntA enrrMDondnM from Dertnni who with to attend anr vhool, or who bar ciiUdraa. ' to edacate. Catalogu of any acbnol frea. Am rion .education! Cminr. IS lerbom lit., Chlca-to, III SHERWOOD S, Fine Arts Building, Chicago. WILLIAM H. SHERWOOD - DIRECTOR. Best modern methods and advsntagea la all departments. Send for catalogue. Chss. R. Baksr, Mgr. A Klastll HiU. r7"-TaeLesslsiStel Conservatory f Mail and IftNmatla Artla tha Want FIlV amluBat tlssot. BM mm w A m aai,frv HfMKUul rtwi to tavUntod pnpi). of HmlteMl KDMna. Fall term ttin HmmrrH lwil Cataotiui mtsladfraa. JU V J. II A T T v aF.I X. Dtri" Iowa College, Grinnell, Iowa DAN P. BRADLEY, President. Mth Year Opens September 17th, 10''2. FACULTY of thiriv-nve: well annnlntrit LABORATOR1KS: MUSEUM: f.IHHAHV of thirty thounand volumes; ' Men's and Women' GYMNASIUMS; ATHI.ETIU FIELD IOWA COLLEOE 8CHODI. OP Ml'Biu; sperm I course In Organ and Chu'oh Music. IOWA COLLEGE ACALKMY prepares for any college. ror information audinss, J. H. T. MAIN, ' Dean of the Faculty. Is always of uniform excellence, tc never departs from Its high quality. It Is a dry Champagne with a delightful bouquet. liTT i i j oi grapt. naturw. IM1 "ChitteodegHsll." Kearney, Ncb.-I02 Dr. Chittenden will open his new board ing school for girls, to be known as "MAN SION SCHOOL," Sept. 23. Boys received under 14. Fur further information address Chittenden iialL Kearney, Meb. A S.IN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER DR. T. FELIX OOLRALD'S ORIENTAL CREAM. OR MAGICAL BEAITIFIER. r.n.oves ri'au, Pimpl, Freckles. 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