14
THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAV, OCTOBER (J, 1001.
mm
pasiiio.vs nniCT ron octoiikk.
rcnlnrvN of (lir Fit II Ktlillilt of Iln,
Fnra nml Wrnpn.
NEW YOItK, Oct. I. Tho illvldlna; Jlno
between good and bad taate In ilrens is very
marked tbl oulutnn. For where correct
styles have reached a point moro nearly
perfect than at any period In the history of
fashion, there are alwayo women who "will
have two tails to their bird, If we may thus
express It, and for these extremists the
cddltlea they aro prone to purchase are
odder and uglier than over.
For those who have mastered tho cult
of clothw this Indlscrlmlnato mixing of
ths perfect and tho faulty Is of little mo
ment, but, for the unsophisticated ones,
who como from afar to do their shopping
In the Kroat city, the situation presents
many pitfalls. All of Hicbo things arc to be
worn elso why In tho shops 7 and how
may untutored tastes know tho false from
the truo when each bears with equal as
tiirancc tho stamp of fashion?
So ulont? with thu things you may prop
erly wear It seems only reasonable to point
tho things you would butter not.
Tn begin, thcio are soma cock's plume
boas In tho murket, whose gra)ti and blacks
aro mixed with white, and the fcatherB ruf
fled up In such a way as to create a dla
tresstully vombativo look. These arc to be
warily considered, for no woman short cf
th VeniiH do Mllo could support such a col
lur with dlK'Hty. And besides their silly
rumpled-chlcken nlr they add a Kood ten
years to your age.
Other now boas that strike tho objective
tyo as folng too far for effects aro cer
tain short collars of stuffod fur ending In
heads, from the mouths of which depend
festooned ends of velvet ribbon or gold
braid. Still another rather extravagant
model Is composed of a ucck piece of
ostrich tcnthors and ends of frilled silk
tnuslln, caught at ilcHued spaccB with
clumps of short feathers.
An clcynnt simplicity and a caressing
limpness distinguish tho best of the new
fur collars. Tho' varloun skins used tor
them aro In the Frouch models left un
sullied, which gives a little look of hav
ing klllod and dressed your animal your
self. Some of tho moBt stylish bona aro
of black fox, the band being perhaps seven
Inches wide at nil points and finishing at
each end with three tails. Thoy are to ho
worn either high like a stnnd-up collar, or
else as a stole-tlppet over tho shoulders,
two buttons at throat and chost holding
them In place. When worn high about tho
throat and crossed, these soft bons scorn
very handsome,
llxtru Ktjlcn In llnlN.
Tho pair of hats plcturod with tho two
collets are liko them a shads too extrava
gant for perfect taste, but over protty
young faces they pass muster nnd they will
bo much worn. With u slight modification
of the shape at the right and more softness
nnd graco of trimming to hide hard lines,
It niny bo mado even smartly becoming.
Tho stiff volvot hat at tho left, which Is
In moss green with black ostrich plumes,
needs the reverse of trcntment and should
bo exaggerated to produce tho picturesque
results for which It Is designed. Instead
of tho hard velvet sprcud frame choose a
soft felt with wider brim nnd mass the
feathers moro heavily and closely. If you
go tn for picture, effects they must be
faithfully carried out, nnd not nipped at u
stago which la neither one Wiling nor the
other.
s Much of the new headgear shows the stiff,
high crown of thla chapeau, whllo other
hard crowns aro much smaller and dent In
under the eave-llko top, trimmings belns
put on to show as much of thlB vagary a
possible.
White ii Duiulnnnt Note.
Monkey skin (penu do singe) Is tho unique
STR1KINO STYLES IN I10AS.
camo French designers havo given a new
cloth, which has u suedu-llke surface and a
slight hairiness. In biscuit tones, with
black 'filk braids and frogs this Is con
sidered very chic, though Just as frequently
It Is trimmed with bands of whlto or tinted
doeskin. White is a very dominant note
with all of the best French gowns, Evon
It trimmings of color are used thoy will bis
combined with white, and Just as often
black goes with It.
A gown of checked wool, In dull red, black
nnd white, Is gay with bands of white
broadcloth crossed by silk loops of red,
This Is In a model of gored skirt and tailed
Jacket, which Is couflned at the waist by a
R Tear for a Pain
Osly expectant mothers, or those who hvo born
children, know, the full meanlnr of these words.
44 AVL2Si?in 'SXliiilW 0,her wmin "bout
"MOTHER'S FRimO," that wonderful llnl
ment that Ym 4tH At Incident to childbirth.
Thero Is nothlni Ilk IL
, J?'P1SMORTOt.6ltrlow,N.C.iTiMToiuchciii,i L-
bottle! IWnra rnnlnim,., . ,1 Mka I 1. 1 l . . ' fQs.N.C
Six ll doinf l4eodull, Hunt, to 'Moihtr, Fiuod.' ' ' mnum'
Sold hf til beit DrurtUu, or will b ttnt triprtn tld e
receipt of rl. 81. OO. "hook entltl.U "MolWik.iP'ton.
tiimnf Inlricttios Inn (or (II ic'l of lb rDtlr mi, Jd he I
THE BUADFIKLD KKfill.ATOHCO., Atlaata, Oa.
IN THE DOMAIN Of WOMAN.
scarf of white cloth. At the right side
gore of tho skirt, itnd right breast of tho
Jacket, a frogglng Of black silk braid Is n
novel touch.
The Srixnon'n Cunt.
Long coats aro mori than ever seen, but
the shapeless looseness that marked them
IbhI winter Is being replaced by n half fit
that Is very becoming to willowy figures.
Tho why of It Is one of the- mysteries, but
those long, looso coats had n curiously Irri
tating effect on oil that part of tho world
mm mm
l'n v mil I c$M
vssv i; i i ri .'v r. x a miv
THItEK STiLlSU TOILETTES.
which was not wearing them. I have heard
blttor remarks passed on them "they arc
indecent," "otttrngcoua," "Insulting," and
all because they hid tho lines of tho figure!
In Jnpan tho code of propriety works Just
the othor way, travelers from this country
declaring that European women are com
pelled to mu (Ho the outlines of their tightly
fitting gowns tn order to pass through
streets without ribald and audible com
ment from bystanders.
Some of the long coats arc double
brcastod and boast Jaunty little shoulder
capes In two flounces. Their buttons aro
of pierced bone or hugo knotm (bone nlso)
which lu black on color seem very btj'llsh.
Tho cloth coats aro pcrhnps a degree moro
gallant for street wear than tho shortor
Louis affaire, which depend on Jeweled
belts and rich embroideries for effect. Hut
It looks as If the last are to be much worn
and by old as well as young, though elderly
women will with these confine themselves
to dark hues nnd. the richer materials
black velvet, satin, etc,
Hlt-Kmit P.venlnit Prncka.
Evening dresses are taking on a gorge
ousness of combination discouraging to the
woman of light purso and Ambitious soul,
Trains and shorter tunic effects of volvot
and panne nre seen over petticoats of rich
laco, tho model of such a costumo hinting
delicately of tho stately days of patch and
powder.
inrt I etl ( - rVfcJ,"
7
90 !
One of these rich evening frocks pictured
Is of rose-colored panne over n petticoat of
silk muslin In a pnler tint, Mack chnntllly
laoc. In wide, Irregular ontre deux, Is put
over n foundation of tho muslin to form a
very decorative trimming for the princess
tunic. It also outlines the petticoat flounce
In a less curving and narrowed width
and whero tho tunle Is caught at the back
thcro arc butterlly bows of the panne with '
sllm-ihaped ends to fall over tho train. At
tho back waist line another of these coquet
n
tlsh bows appears and one at tho bU3t
fastens u shoulder scarf In the samo rosy
material. For such n costume a long clonk
of black satin with wide sleeves and a
monk'H hood would bo In dashing harmony.
A very pretty house dress for morning or
afternoon wear Is of blue challlo figured
with black. A novel bolero effect on tho
bodice, which fastens at tho back, falls over
a blouse of white embroidery. iTho figured
skirt U made to lmltnto n drapery, narrow
black silk braid outlining It whero It Joins
the kilted llounce of plain blue.
Thu collars of mnny of tho new house
gowns thow a lacy transparency ns elegant
as comfortable. They are lu tho guipure
and lace shapes without lining, some rich
device of tho dcntellc running back nnd
front bolow the neck line, and floss-covered
wires cunningly holding them up nt the
back. Hut Just as many bouso gown nre
seen without any stock whatever. With
thesu soft lace cape collars aro graceful
details. MAHY T-AN.
COL'ltAtiK OF MHS. HOOSK VI31.T.
MlrrliiK IiiInuU in tin- Life of tlie
Prealilrnt' Mother,
From tho paternal branch of the ancestral
tree mny havo been derived some of tho In
domitable spirit of President Roosevelt,
says the Philadelphia Nurth American, but
certain It Is that tho maternal branch wm
rich In that quality which marked tho Bui
lochs of Georgia for thulr resolution, per
tlnnotty and strength of will, No better
exponent of thoso traits could be found
than Martha Uullo:h Itoosovelt. the mother
of the president.
Not long after tho civil war Mrs. Roose
velt was on n visit to Savannah, where sho
had many friends. Sho was a Goorgla
woman, of distinguished ancestry, the Hut
loch family being one of the oldest In tho
state, and Its representative having served
with distinction In tho hlghost positions.
It wns but natural, therefore, that sho
should havo been woll received upon her
visit to that city. Reunion with her southern
friends, after tho years of tho war that sho
hod spent nt her homo In New York, was a
pleasure to Mrs. Roosevelt, and It was with
the keenest relish thtt the recounted stories
of tho times nnd of the trials that she had
suffered In tho city of her ndoptlon.
One of these sftirles clearly reveals the
chnrncter of the woman, and leaves HtMo
difficulty In determining whence tho presi
dent getB some of thoso qualities that havo
tended to his nrcferment.
It wns at a dinner given In Mrs. Itnosc
volt's honor by Mrs, Henrietta S. Cohen
that she told tho story. Of late years, be
cause of Theodore Roosevelt's rapid ad
vancement, It has been recalled bv Ills
mother's old friends, who feel pride In
having known tho mother of tha president,
GOWN OF RED, 13 LACK AND WHITE.
and gladly ascribe to her some of the traits
that are seen lu her son. i
It was Just when the dove of peace, tin- ;
certain an to whether It should alight, was
hovering over the land. New York wai '
nllame with patslonnto patriotism, and any
thing smacking of confederacy was not tol
erated. Feeling ran high, and woe was It
tc any who braved tho tide nnd showed n
leaning toward the cause of the south.
Theodore Itoosovelt, the elder, derided
about that tlmo to give some great social
function. The Koosevelt mansion was ac
cordingly bravely decked In bunting nnd
with United States flags. From every win
dow, save one, flew the stars nnd strings.
That exception was Mrs, tloosevelt's bou
doir window, tier husband had not desired
to omit It front the dccoratlvo scheme, but
sho would have nono of It. Instead, she
hit upon n plan that would clearly reveal
her sentiments..
Stopping not to consider the peril In
which It might place her and her husband,
but determined to Bhow that nil In that
houso wcro not of the causo of tho north,
sho drew from among her cherished treas
ures tho stars and bans of the confederacy.
Going to tho window, sho firmly fixed Its
staff nnd nllowcd Its folds to flutter to the
breeze.
On tho Instant, almost, tho hostile ensign
was noted. In hot Indignation ono ob
server pointed It out to another and a mob
speedily grew, as moba will. Soon the street
wns choked with anry people, who shook
threatening fists at tho confedcrato flag and
lnvelghad mojt blttcily.
Alarmed at tho gathering that was swelled
at every moment nnd which directed lt
wrath against his house, Mr. Roosevelt
sought tho causo that had stirred the peo
ple to anger. Ho was not long In finding
It. Fierce acclaim directed his garo, which
rosted upon the fluttering emblem of tho
south. The Roosevelt nature has never
quailed before a crowd. Theodore, tho
elder, aw that Imminent danger could
probably be averted only through persuad
ing bis wife to rcmovo tho objectionable
flag. With a word to the crowd he entered
tha houeo to tlnd his wife. lie told bor
whnt sho already knew that the anger of
the mob had been excited by her Indiscreet
display of thu southern colors, nnd said that
It would be well for her to tako In the
Hag.
"I shall not do so," said the mother of
tho president "Tho (lag Is mine; tho bou
doir Is mire. I lovo tho flag, for It repro-
EVENING COSTUME
sents my native land. No ruffian shall In
vade the privacy of my boudoir to drag
down that ting, nor shall ruffian shouts
force meito rcmovo It from tho window of
a room that Is wholly mlno. Explain to
thrm that I nm a southern woman; that I
love tho south. Do anything you llko ex
cept touch that flag. It shall not como
down."
And It did not. Theodore Roosovelt went
again to faco tho crowd. He dwelt with
flncceo upon his wife's lovo for her native
land and moulded tho gathering to his will
nnd to an Indulgence of Mrs, Roosevelt In
her deslro to fly the flag of her beloved
south.
Tho crowd dispersed. Tho story remains
to show a maternal quality that has made
a president.
iiKi.r.N ;i,AmTo.i:'s wohk.
Pioneer of Women' Ifnl vrrltj- Work
In ICiikIiiiuI,
Miss Helen Gladstone, daughter of the
greatest of modern English statesmen, Is
not ono ot thoso women who are content
to pass their days In the pursuit of pleas
ure. Although qualified to bold a high
place In English society, whero she would
be cordially welcomed, sho has chosen
a better part nnd has recently taken charge
of tho Women's University sottlement,
which has Its headquarters In Nelson
square, Southwark. Tho distinguished
woman who has thus actively thrown In her
lot with those who arc secklug to break
down tho nrtlflelal barriers separating tho
rich and the learned from the poor and the
unlettered Is the fourth daughter of the
Into W. K. Olndstono, to whom during his
closing years she acted as secretary. After
his death she managed the Immense mass
of correspondence which tho death of tho
great statesman entnllcd upon the family.
Miss Gladstone Is S2 years old. Itorn nt
Hawarden castlo, she was educated at homo
and ,nt Nownham college, Cambridge. Sho
became vice principal of tho college In 1SS2
ami held the placo till tho close of 1886.
From Hawarden to what nrc unhappily tho
sordid surroundings of Southwnrk Is a
transition that could only havo been decided
tipon nt tho bid of n strong, Imperative call
to service among nnd for the poor. It Is
Interesting, too, to note that Miss Gladstone
will In her now sphere be laboring In thu
dtoceso of tho bishop of Ilochcster, whoso
wife Is a member of the Cllynno family, ns
was the lato Mrs. Gladstone.
The sottlement of which Miss Gladstone;
has taken chargo Is tho pioneer of women's
university work among tho London poor.
It wns founded In 1SS7 by tho women's col
leges of Oxford nnd Cambridge, and Is
governed by representatives of thoso and
of the London university nnd of tho Hoyal
Hollowny college. There aro sixteen resi
dents, besides which a large number of
nonresidents aid lu tho work of tho settle
ment. Together the membership reaches a
total of 8G0, but the large majority of
these are not actively engaged In the work
of tho settlement. It Is conducted on un
denominational lines and carries out Its
objects by co-operating with existing
agenctos for the promotion of the weifaro
of tho poor, especially women nnd children.
Systematic Instruction Is also given to
workers by lectures on social and eco
nomic subjects and practical work.
Fnr nml Alimit Women.
Of the women who recently took com
petitive examination In Washington for po
sitions In the civil service over 77 per coat
pasted, as against 62 per cent of the men,
I-ouIhc Imogen Gulney, thu poet, Ii nt
present living In London und carrying o l
her literary work In tlmt city. She ex
pect, however, to return to this country
In the spring.
The first postmistress lu Cuba Ii Miss
Ysnbel do Los-Rlos. She Is about L'3 yen s
old, it daughter of Judge Do Loa-lUns, and
receives. It Is said, a salary of $1,200.
Miss Ioulsc C, Danforth, who has had
charizn of the nostoMce In Weathe rsuM
How, vt ror nny years, nns resigned, uer
salary, depending upon the stamp cnncelln
tlon, has been about $150 for a number of
years.
lletwcen Weston nnd Nnremburg, Pu,. Is
hitlldlnir devoted bv n tihtlanthronlo
woman. MIhi Sarnli Drill, to the bousing
of over ninety stray cuts. Miss Urlll Is 70
years of ugc, but unfailing lu attention to
tier four-footed ucnellciario.
Tho first license for n female pilot Issued
bv tho Haltlinoro Hoard of Steamboat In
spectors, was given to Miss Carrlo H, 1 Pin
ter of Buow Hill, Md, Miss Hunter's f ither
owns n small steam yacht, nnd her llcenso
entitles her to nnvlgitto vemels of thut
typo on Pocomoko sound, river nnd tribu
taries. Mist Hunter Is the second womnn
on the Atlantic coast to receive a pilot's
license.
in the course of his address to the nt'i
dents nt the opening exorc'ses of the Haiti
moro Woman's colleen lust week President
Ooucher suld: "A womanish man Is n
farce; n mannish womnn Is a tragedy. The
enlargement of opportunity obtain d
through education secured In such insti
tutions ob this Is attended bv cnlarccment
of responsibility from which you cannot
escnpe. Your highest idcul should bo a
womanly womanhood."
Prill of PfiNhliin.
Hiind work In tucks, herring bono, cm
broidery nnd nppllquo is noticeable on uti
t ti in n gowns of soft mitterlulo.
Now gnrnlturi! for millinery usu Includes
white lace nnnllnued with velvet fljrures und
cream Venetian laco combined with whlto
and black tnffetu.
Scratch felt Is the nnmo given to noma of
the new effects In beaver; and nngoru repre
sents ordinary felt overlaid with raw silk
veiled In mnllne.
There Is n sudden rcvlvll of fancy button
decorations, nnd of the Jnw'eled variety,
Iridescent pearl nnd pinkest opal buttons
are Just now the raga In Paris,
Both tnnuvo and sapphire velvet will lie.
used for handsome wraps this winter.
String colored guipure point nnd sable trims
a sapphire velvet model wrnp shown by n
Persian designer.
Tiny ruches of silk or of tho dress mate
rial pinked at the edges nre tho fashion
ablo trimming for the newest models of
otnmlne, nuns' veiling nnd other light wool
or silk und wool gowns,
OF ROSE PANNE.
Oxidized steel buckles shaped like u dag'
ncr nro novelties amonir millinery orna
mcnts, Gun metnl nnd rhtnestones aro
combined In some odd and pretty clasps
nnil inicKlea ror millinery use.
1 lie ufp ui uaiiim ill iiniiiuu it.-uii:i.-).
particularly In black, Is one of the special
points about the senson's hats, Combined
with castor or light blue, velvet theso
feather bands nru Exceedingly effective.
Mohnlr tweed and herring bone and fluked
friezes nre utilized with excellent results by
English tailors for smart coat und skirt cos
tumes, Some of tho mixtures combine,
mauve, white und maroon, others show
green and brown, blending with touches of
rcu.
Color ns a rule, is verv iirtlstlcnllv consld
ered this season nnd oven from thu vivid
red, gold nnd deep orange dyes, ns Keynotes
in both dress nnd mllllncrv. mnnv novel und
attractive variations aro made. All shades
of red take a prominent place among au
tumn nnd w'ntcr accessories, nnd the vogue
of tlno dellcnto gold trimmings is equally
the rage. The genuine royal red Is a bril
liant scarlet, but with not u truce of a
brlcklsh tint In It, It Is moro like the glow
ing torch of u Bumuo bueh.
Kitchen Utensils
HA VINO THIS
Trade Mark
A A M M
NO POISON
It used la the enamel.
A NOTED PHYSICIAN,
Doctor Wanata, of Lansing, Mich.,
Says Tlioro is Nothing in tho Materia Medioa that
Equals Lydia E, Pinkham's Vegetable Com
pound for tho Ouro of Woman's Ills,
"T)ran Mns. Pinkitam: Tho honest, inlclHgont physician is nboT
tho ' School.' Whatever is host in ertch citso should bo used, no matter
to whut school a physician belong. I, as u matter of eonsoienco, can
only prcscribo tho licst. ami as 1 know and havo proven Unit thcro is
nothing in Materia Mcdica which equals Lydli K. Plnklmni's Vcko
ttable Compound in sovoro cases of femalo disorders, I unhesitatingly
prcscribo it, and havo never yot been sorry.
"I know of nothing better for ovarian troubles nnd for falling of
tho womb or ulcerations ; it absolutely restores tho affected parts to
their normal condition quicker anil bettor than anything else. I havo
known it to cure barremtes'i in women, who to-day aro liappy mothers
of children, nnd while tho medical profession looks down upon ' patents,
I havo learned, instead, to look-up to tho healing potion, by whatever
name it bo known. If my fellow physicians dared tell tho truth, hundred
of them would voico my sentiments." J)it, Wanata, Lansing, Mich.
DR. WANATA.
As Dr. Wanatn says, if physicians dared to bo frank and open, htm
dreds of them would acknowledge that thoy constantly prcscribo liydla
E. PiiiUiuim'N Vegetable Compound in sovoro cases of femalo ills, as
they know by experience that it can bo relied upon to effect a cure.
Women who nro troubled with painful or irregular menstruation,
backache, bloating (or flatulence), leucorrhma, falling, inllammation or
ulceration of the uterus, ovarian troubles, that " Ixjanng-down " feeling,
dizziness, fnintness, indigestion, nervous prostration or tho blues should
tako immediate action to ward off tho serious consequences, and be
restored to perfect health and strength by taking Lydln E. Pinkham's
Vegetable Compound, and then writo to Mrs. Pinkhnm. Lynn, Mass..
for further free advice. No living person has had such u vast and
successful oxporioncc in treating femalo ills. She has guided thousands
to health. Every suffering woman should ask for and follow her advice.
Lydia E. Pinkham's Vcgetablo Compound has carriod hundreds
of women, through tho periods of child bearing und change of lifo in
perfect comfort and safety.
A medicine that has restored so many women to health anii can produce
proof of the fact tnml be regarded "tvith respect. This in the record of Lydia E
Pinkham's Vegetable Compound, which caunot b equalled by nay
clbcr medicine the world has ever produced.
It is well to remember these facts when some druggist tries to pet you to
buy something which ho KiiyH is "jurtu as good." That in impossible, as no
other medicine hr. such n record of cures as Lydia E. Pinkham's Vege
table Compound ; bo do not experiment with untried medicines.
$5000
lir.WAIlD. We harndepniilteil with the National City IIAitk of Lynn, IMM0,
which will bo paid In nny porMHi who cnnflml thtt tlie aboYO tiwtlmonial letter
Ii not g&MUlue, or ni publli n brforo obtaining the wrller'i iperlnl per
mission Lye". . K. l'lnkham Alolloluu Co., I,j-nn, Mm.
00 000000(f)
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THE FAME OF MML RUPPERT
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The most
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pace
Removes Permanently
PIMPLES, BLACK HEADS, FRECKI.HS,
ECZEMA, MOTH PATCHES, SALLOW
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and hire li mtrlli. manner ot mini and wonderful retulia cip!alnda
au Tu will he aiiiaflcd It la what you acd for your Mmplailoo.
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ElT-ptlart Balm, Almond Oil Complexion Sonp and Hair Tonic
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B
KUHN & CO.,
The Reliable Prescription Pharmacists.
Sole Agents for Omaha.
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