19
THE .OMAHA DAILY HEEt SUNDAY, AUGUST 25, 1901.
IN THE DOMAIN Of WOMAN.
FASHIONS VOIl IIIO ASD LITTLE.
Time of Yrnr When Woman U 8u
Itended UetitUt nnd Mrtween.
NEW YOHK, Aug. 23. The shirtwaist
elrea, a practicable wnsh suit la one ma
terial, In Just now tbo morning contuma
of many rnnnrt women. Though cut on the
plainest lines, ami fashioned generally of
the simplest ginghams, cambrics and lin
ens, this little rig has a slagular dash when
made correctly.
Tho shirtwaist which runs to an easy
looseness, bishop sleeves and a plain back,
Is mado very long at tho shoulder seams,
over which tho best dressmakers stitch a
tolas band an Inch and a half wldo. It Is
curious what a fillip these trifling details
give to tho set of a garment. Without
them It Is tho sort of thing anybody might
plain delaines may also be recommended,
tho outfitters already showing very smart
little school o othes In these materials
Trimming are black velvet, narrow ribbon
herring-boned on with black or colored silk
and whlta broadcloth, this last Is most ef
fective and tho middle figure. of the cut
shows the usual method of Us employment
MAttY DEAN.
WOM12X OF THE WOULD.
Womnn'a rosltlon In New Zealnnn
nnit Aimtmlln.
As In Hawaii, the first civilized women
who visited Now Zcalnnd wore the wlve3
of missionaries sent out from New South
Wales and subsequently from England. But
these pioneer women endured hardships
from which thoso who spent their lives In
EAKLY AUTUMN CHEVIOT,
wear. With the long shoulders and tho
bands and tho aforementioned looseness
of fit If ono may uso the expression with
senseless clothes, a look of gentle breeding
Is created.
To further this very aristocratic sugges
tion the best shirtwaist dresses are self
trimmed that Is, with the aamo material
so It you seo ono running to white bands
you may rccognlzo It as a bnso pretender
In the fashion world,.
It Is even belted with tho , same texturo,
a narrow, doublo bias, heavily stitched,
serving for this purpose.
Sometimes ono comes across a foulard
Ilk fashioned In this same sensible man
ner, nut tho most modest "print" patterns
nro always chosen, nnd Instead of tho stiff
linen collar of tho wash dress, tho silk
gown will sport a luces barbe, that wraps
tho throat tightly and falls with graceful
ends to tho belt. It It Is not tied In n little
bow at tho neck the barbo fastens nt this
point with n fancy brooch of some sort. A
great disc of turquolsc-matrix, rimmed by
a golden serpent with Jowoled eyes, la a
brooch ono sees on nil sides nowadays, and
any one of the barbes In a good Imitation
laco is a dressy addition to a Bilk frock.
Illnck and White lloldn.
In tho way of absolutely new materials,
French manufacturers are offering a rough
wool triese, which, In black nnd white,
clever dressmakers are beginning to com
blno with plain cloth In coral pink and
ochre yellow, at points whore only a sug
gestion of color Is thought necessary.
Dlack nud white, It seems, Is to continue
with ui, for tho newest confections from
Paris show a liberal sprinkling of gowns
In this favorite combination. One pictured
Is of cheviot In a weight sufficiently light
to permit of lato autumn use. The ma
terial is one of the handsomest patterns
seen ft grnytsh-whlto background with tha
black raised and In irregular round plotchc3.
Tho skirt Is shaped by a series of uneven
tucks at sides and back, and tho front Is In
a vory narrow gore, pressed over the seams,
to lto like a shaped box, pleat. Tho bodice,
with its square neck and loose sleeves, of
fers charming suggestions for (light fig
ures. Below tho bust and shouldcr-llnea
tho material folds In pleats to form a girdle
effect; tbo chemisette and umlorsleoYes are
of white silk muslin embroidered with
black. Black liberty satin evolves the
floating snsh nnd forms nil tho solidly dark
notes elsewhere seen.
A .batch of evening wraps recall the
styles of preceding seasons In outllno, but
they are what the market offers tho maiden
who prefers a becomng gnrment which she
knows to a problematic one whose virtues
are yet to be tested. The high Medici
collars that havo so long distinguished tho
short evening capes tho long ones, too,
for that matter have been found too uni
versally beautifying to be dono nway with.
But a porfoctly now detail -with many of
the short Imported capes Is a wde, three-
quarters length sleeve, that Is a most be.
coming background for n pretty bare arm
"umneio aieovcs ' is tne name they go
under and somo of the China silks used for
the Httlo wraps' are said to be from China.
Other pretty ovenlng capes aro mado of
Ilk poplin In white or pale colors, with
which ochro colored laco Is sometimes com
bined with rich effect.
ttouonl Hliia for Suiull Fry.
For small fry wo are glad to announce
that the cheerful plaids so long associated
with children aro seen. Indeed, they seem
to reproduce the tartans of tho Scottish
chieftains more faithfully than ever and a
salesman up In his business knows all tbo
names.
Bigger muldens, for the plaids are con-
I fined to girls under 10, are to have the
I materials of their elders, the woolly chev
lots mentioned being considered quite the
1 thing for stout school uso.
Hawaii were spared.
1110 Maorlcs, or aborigines, among whom
they lived, wcro a warlike people and from
1814 until their final submission, and oven
nftcr this, hostilities were always immi
nent massacres occurring in which neither
ago nor sex wero spared. Tho climate
was cold, few ships touched upon those
remote shores and there were no fish In tho
streams and no game in the forests. The
sea, however, abounded In fish and oysters
were abundant, and In the courso of time
the land wa3 cultivated and sufficient crops
produced.
Tho Maorles were consldored tho beat
of tho Polynesian raccB; they were tall,
well formed, the men strikingly handsome
until they were hideously disfigured by
tatooing a practice long since abandoned
The womon resembled those of Samoa and
Hawaii, having long, lustrous black hair,
slightly waving, straight features, the same
largo dark eyes and perfect teeth. Whllo
men were tattooed from head to foot,
womon escaped with a fow perpendicular
Mnes on the chin and a email arabesque
figure at each corner of the mouth. Whllo
tho male Maori haa relinquished tho cus
tom, tho women still submit to It and num
bers may be seen any day in Napier and
other southern towns thus disfigured, seated
along the curbstone, wearing European
dress and almost without an exception
puffing at a brlerwood pipe.
During tho early days tho various tribes
were constantly at war with each other
nnd they wore very clever In the construc
tion of pahs, or fortifications, which were
frequently perched upon the peak of an a!
most inaccessible mountain. Women, as
well as men, were endowed with superb
courage and often took aa active part In
resisting their assailants.
As elsewhere in Polynosla, tho tabu, or
sacred Interdiction, cut them off from
many of the enjoyments of life, although,
as a people, they were practically without
religion.
The women showed great skill in the
preparation ot the native flax, bleaching
the flbir to a snowy whiteness an art that
has defied tbo Ingenuity of tho English
settlers, From this they wove beautiful
mats and mantles, tho latter decorated In
pretty patterns with vegetable ' dyes, or
covered with short, pendant cords, or the
soft feathers of fowls over tho entire sur
face. But this art, like that ot their bcautl
ful woodcnrvlng, In which the men ex
celled, ,1s being rapidly forgotten. A few
ot the chiefs still preserve the mantles
which aro heirlooms, and nothing can in
duco them to part with them.
Most of tho women ot the present gen
eratlon can read and write and their bouse
koeplng is of the simplest. They tako
most naturally to tho arts of civilization
Tho English have been very Just to the
Maorles in tha acquirement of lands, which
have been willing to, part with them; as a
consequence tney still hold vast tracts
some ot It being the most valuable land In
the colony. The famous thermal region at
Rotarua Is held by the Maorles, all fees
charged at the various geysers being paid
ovor to them, as well as the ground rentals
from the sanitariums and hotels In tli
vicinity. Tho cares ot tho Maori housewife
In this geyser country, which resembles our
own cllowstono park, aro reducod to
minimum; tho scalding steam Issues from
Innumerable crevices In tho pumice and
tho bread, mutton and potatoes are put
into vessels, covered nnd sot over a cranny
to cook without further attention. The
Indolence which this has engendered has
Induced what Froude has called one of the
most melancholy examples of the degenera
tion of a noble race that has ever been
recorded.
One of the best known characters nt Ro
tarua was Sophia, the famous guide, whom
tTouoo has Immortalized In his rather un
auering "Oceanic." She was a sturdy,
Red nnd blue spotted challlcs and soft, "e"u'wan, witty and clover, familial
with every myth and tradition of the re
The Ordeal Is TrgHig
Chlldbearing is a perfectly natural func
tion, but it is robbed of its terrors where
the virtue of "MotiWa Frtmmi"
is known. This unique liniment, applied
externally, relaxes all the muscles, so that
I sW vi qvm l9 Lvov - to"."
gd by til test Dranbtt. But bv
WILL BOLT, ot I.rnitlW. I, vrllM " 'M Wi PttMuT mm prtld cm raolpt TpricZ
1 TSUI HIMUU KTCIXATM C. , AUaaU. Sa, ot) (UW, mtiU bn.
glon, and, by Industry nna thrift, had
amassed a comfortable fortune. Her less
energetic sisters spent much of their time
simmering In the hot pools, blue as Indigo,
wncre they basked amid clouds of vapor,
like dusky nymnhs. A clover photographer
of Duedln Induced n bcautful Maori prin
cess to bo photographed In her bath sur
rounded by her attendants nnd she con
sented only upon condition that n second
picture) should be made reclining nnd
wrapped In her feathery mantle, "that tho
English ladles might know that sho had
pretty clothes," a touch of feminine human
nnturo tbnt needs no comment.
Ono of tho most distinguished of tho
English women residents ot New Zealand
was Lady Barkor, now Lady Frederick
Broome, whose second husband was ap
pointed governor ot Trinidad. Sho has re
corded her experiences in one of the most
delightful books yet written on Australian
life, "Station Llfo In New Zealand." Among
other Incidents nnd adventures sho de
scribes being snowed In, during tho nb
eence of her husband In Chrlstchurch,
bouse nnd all being burled In ono of tha
rare snow storms that visit tho middle
Island nbout once In twenty years nnd
which melt as rapidly as they fall, Tho
day following the storm she stood wnlst-
dcep In Icy wntcr nnd with the assistance,
of two guests dug out and saved hundreds'
ot sheep nnd lambs that othcrwlso would
have perished.
As It waB a long voyago from England.
only tho most enterprising women had tho
courago to emlgrata and this, undoubtedly,
bad Its effect upon tha present British
population, who, men nnd women botW, are
tho very flower of tho Drltlsh colonists.
They nro surprisingly tall, athletic, with
fresh, rosy complexions, and this, notwith
standing the enormous quantities of tea
they consume, strong as lye, In huge cups,
morning, noon and night.
Bccauso of their fowncss the women of
New Zealand wero treated with dis
tinguished favor nnd their children and
grandchildren havo reaped the benefits. Tho
universities havo been co-cducatloncl for
many years, awarding women degrees with
a Justice that Oxford and Cambridge might
well omulato. Thcro aro several clever
young women employed upon tho colonial
newspapers, whllo others nre making their
way In other professions notably that ot
medicine.
In 1893, after several years of persevorlng
work, In which tho women wcro nldcd by
such men ns tho lato Sir George Grey, tho
former premier. Sir Robert Start, now
chief Justice, tho bill legalizing universal
suffrage was passed. A franchise league, of
which Mrs. Dnldy of Auckland was presi
dent and Mrs. KlUon secretary was tho
medium through which tho preliminary
work wna carried on; and, In discussing It,
Mrs. Kltson. a charming llttla woman, who
had lived all her life In London, until hor
removal to New Zealand, said: "Wo kept
sharp cyo upon Parliament, and not n
speech made in our favor passed unnoticed.
Wo wired our congratulations Immediately,
and did our best to convert thoso who wero
opposed to us."
One of the lenders of tho Buffrago move
ment was Lady Annlo Stout, tho wife ot
tho chief Justlco, a woman of brilliant Intel
ligent and great personal attraction. On
the day of tho election Lady Stout offi
ciated ns on election Judge, sitting all day
In tho polling booth in ono ot tho worst
districts ot Doraedln, -where she then re
sided. It 1b a remarkablo fact that of tho
total number of women enrolled nt tho
first election after they wcro enfranchised
although Melbourne formerly prided Itself' Jewelry. Rings, bracelets, chains, watches
upon Its American characteristics. The and broochoR nre adorned with It and It bids
social conventions, as approved by Lon- fair to becomo a veritable crazft.
don, prevail; the teas, lunoheons, dinners, a novel Idea In high-class Jewelry Is the
and balls are conducted ns they would bet combination of Jet and pearls, with n liberal
In England, except that tho duties of the ugu 3f exquisite gold work, or, In somo
chnperono aro loss exacting, nnd young cases, they nro set in delicately wrought
girls an allowed a good deal ot flbcrty,
which they arc careful enough not to
abuse. In all tho various colonics the
social life centers In nnd about Govern
ment house, to which all maids nnll
matrons, to bo in good stnndlng nnd of
any social prestige, must havo the entree.
Tho duties of the governor make It Im
perative that his wife should be competent
to preside over his drnwlngroom and nt
his dinner tablo with grace and dignity
and an Ineligible helpmeet would bo a se
rious obstacle in his career.
As haa been said, Australia Is somewhat
behind Now Zenland In the adoption of
progressive Ideas, but equal suffrago Is
already guaranteed, being supported by tho
nblcst men and women In tho colony.
Among them Is Lady William Wcndcgcr,
who Is well known In tho United States,
Identified with the temperanco movemont,
whoso husband was n distinguished Judge
and whoso daughter was tho representn-
sllver. Cut amethysts are becoming ex
tremely popular In tho fashionable world
and shnre Its favor with turquoise nnd
baroque pearls. The turquoise matrix has
lost Its vogue, probably because so much
Imitation stuff was put on tho market.
The brooch, or breastpin, beloved of a
former generation, but long In disuse, has
been gradually finding Its wny back to
fashion's dressing tnble, and promises to
bo fully reinstated by winter. Tho often
really nrtlstlc cameo brooches, surrounded
by diamonds or pearls, will bo taken from
Jewel boxes, where they have lain for
years, to hold the folds of n lace flsclni
on beauty's corsage, or perform such other
functions ns wcro formerly their province.
When not of excessive slzo those enmeo
brooches may be used to pin the wide vel
vet nock ribbon now so grently liked both
for high and dccolleto bodices, The ear
drops that generally accompanied and com-
PRETTY SCHOOL OUTFITS.
tlve from Australia to tho Columbian ex
position. Womon nro admitted to tho uni
versities of Sydney nnd Mclbourno, being
students In their own colleges a recog
nized part of each foundation, nnd they
recclvo tho same degrees ns are conferred
upon students of tho other box. Lady
Duff, whoso husband was governor of Now
South Wales In 1804, worked Indefntlgably
for tho Woman's college of Sydney a mag
nificent building, fully equipped In nil Its
departments, tho cornerstone of which was
laid In that year.
In her laborB Lady Duff was aided by
Miss Wooley, ono of tho foremost edu
cators of New .South Wales and a leader
In tho suffrage movemont, whoso father
was dean ot tho unlvorsltj; and by Miss
Macdonald, who vras elected head mistress,
or-prlnclpal, of the college. Miss Mac
.donald received her- degree, from London
iunlvorotty, having distinguished herself
prior to that at the University of Edin
burgh, where she stood first In tho local
examinations,
Jt. will ,be socn that .tne women or mo
over 91 per cent voted. After the suffrago antipodes are fully In touch with thoso ot
pletcd tbom nro detached from tho rings
nnd aro fastened on tho neckband, one on
each sldo of tho brooch.
In tho crazo for revivals woman has dis
played remarkablo Ingenuity In finding
uses for discarded Jowelry when of a really
high order. In ono suoh adaptation n gold
chain link bracelet, nearly an Inch and a
hnlf wldo was converted Into a dog collar
by tho simple expedient of having a clasp
made to match tho bracelet clasp, which
was of pearls In a bar at gold, and added
to tho. ond of tho long, pendent por.tion
This brought two clasps at tho front In a
highly effective manner, nnd lengthened the
bracelet sufficiently to enablo It to clasp
around tho owner's slondcr throat,
Tho Egyptian scarab Is now Imitated In
turquoise for finger rings that are supposed
to bo mascots, but .these must over lack
the truo tnllsmnnlc properties of tho genu
lno, which wcro made with mystic rites
by occult processes. However, they are
odd, cffoctlvo and Interesting, so are suro
to bo popular
I
MISS M'DONALD, PRINCIPAL WOMAN'S COLLEGE.
bill was passed tho franchise league dis
banded, but reorganized Immediately undor
the title of tho Wqman's Political Educa
tion league. Systomatlo study of political
question was taken up and tho result has
been one of tho most Intelligent voting
classes In tho world. As to the result, Its
entire success may bo Inferred from tho
fact that a Yew years ago ono solitary
member roso In Parliament to move the
abrogation of the law; ho could not got
a second, and sat down amidst roars ot
laughter; It was the death ot opposition.
The women of Australia aro somowhat
moro conventional than thoso of New
Zealand, nud, to the casual observer, tho
Intellectual average docs not appear to
be so high. Tho first comers, however,
who did not reside In tho towns, roughed
It In the bush, with fathers, husbands and
brothers sharing their privations, and ever
present danger of attacks from tho sav
age "black fellows" and tho still more
savage bushrangers, or outlaws, vho wero
generally escaped convicts from the penal
colonies.
As the country became moro thickly
settled and comforts and oven luxuries
were possible, life upon tha sheep and
cattle ranges Improved. Tho most open
handed hospitality prevailed and still pre
vails; la:go bouso parties wcro entertained,
especially at Christmas and Easter, which
wore observed as generally ob at "home"
a word that tho English colonists always:
wrlta with a capital letter. Native
servants wero not always to bo rolled upon
and others wero difficult to find, and the
Australian girls becamo, through necessity,
expert In the domestic nrts, Frank and
unspoiled, they were ndmtrablo compan
ions, generous and warm-hearted, through
tho exigencies of a situation where people
were thrown together with .greater Inti
macy than Is possible In older countries.
As much ot tho continual visiting was
done on horseback long before stage
coaches or railway lines wero thought of
Australian women living upon tho ranges,
young nnd old, wero bold and fearless
riders.
In tho cities, Sydney, Molbourno nnd
Adelaide, tbo llfo is essentially English,
tho mother country and the United States
and aro bolng well equipped for tho Im
portant part they nro destined to play
In tho development of their far-off Islands
and continent. MARY H. KROUT.
ODD FADS IN JEWELRY.
.Some Freak Notlrin (lint Are llnvlnic
Quite n ViiKiie Jiiwt Xoiv,
Tho forronnlerc, or forehead Jcwql, that
wos revived In Paris last winter, seems to
be certain of a mora or less gcnoral adop
tion tho coming season. It was worn In tho
first half of the century just ended, when
extreme classicism In dress was affected,
so It Is not. strange that In tho general re
vival of old nineteenth century fashions
this should havo been resurrected.
It Is a reproduction o( tho ancient Egyp
tian forehead ornament, which was usually
n largo and brilliant Jowel or amulet of en
graved gold, held In placo between and
ubovo tho eyes by a gold chain passing
around tho head, Tho ferronnlere suits n
certain vividly Oriental typo ot face or tho
purely classical, but It Is to be viewed with
suspicion by tbo ordinary type, even If
beautiful.
A novelty In rings Is the photograph
ring. Tho face ot tho frlond or relative that
one desires always to have near Is photo
graphed on crystal, and then painted, and
the painting covered with gold foil for pro
tection, This Is set In the ring, and tha
plcturo glows through the transparent
crystal. Sometimes tho tiniest of Ivory
miniatures Is similarly used.
A new way of wearing the long chains
formerly used as watch chains Is to twist
them around the throat as many times as
their length will permit, then fasten the
two ends togother with a large handsome
clasp of baroque pearl, turquoise or any
stono that matches the costume or suits the
fancy. If It ends with a pendant so much
tho bettor. One Ingenious woman had a
pair of old-fashioned earrings, large and
valuable, fastened, to the pin ot tho set In
such n way that the whole made a rather
stunning pendant, odd but effective.
Itusstau enamel Is to be In blgb favor for
WOMAN IN BUSINESS.
Mrs. M. B. Castle, n widow, Is vice presi
dent of the Sandwich (111.) bnnK. wun
which ner nuaoanu was conneticu.
a vnnnr wnmnn from Now York. Dr.
Anna Sawyer, hus gono to Manila nnd hung
out her shingle, as the first Amcrlcnn den
tist. ,
Wnmnn ntivKlrlnnn wero nnt' admitted lo
practice In Germany last nutumn, ulthough
they havo been graduated thcro for soma
time.
Ono of tho youngest notaries public In tho
country Is MIsh Kathryn llclrrtcr, who ls.20
years olU, ana naB ucen u nuiury in oi
Louis for two ycara.
Four women physicians havo been ap
pointed on the Htnrt of tho Cook County
hospltul, Chicago, ono of them a well
known specialist upon nervous diseases.
Two women, graduated from tho Unlvor
Blty of Michigan with tho degree of bache
lor of science, nro practical civil engineers.
Mrs. l'nui U'arus ana miss Marian .rariccr.
Tho newly nnnolnted receiver of the Dlmo
Savings bank of Chicago Is Miss Orthena
I.lttle. She has lone been employed In the
bank nnd Is thoroughly familiar with tho
business.
President Mary Mumford of the board of
corporators ot tho Woman's Medical college
of Pennsylvania, conferred degrees this
summer unon forty-nine Klrls. Including
several from India, Russia and England.
Tho landscape gardener of tho Rook
Islnnd railroad Is Mrs. Annetto McKne, who
huB greatly bcautllled tha grounds around
tho statlonH. Mrs. McRun was formerly
employed by tho Northwestern railroad.
A woman commercial traveler Is Mrs.
Morgan Butler of Peru, Ind. Her huHbnnd,
being stricken, with paralysis, was obllgol
10 give up nis worK us drummer lor a
mitten factory, and Mrs. Morgan has Itllod
It nnd supported the family.
The London Royal Free hospltnt hns ap
pointed two resident medical oillccra who
nre women. This is an Innovation at this
hospital, but common In Enclnnd. The
Metropolitan Hospital for Woman at Euston
roan is munugeu almost wnoiiy by women
physicians,
Dra. Mlnnlo Lovo and Icnora. Hnnley havo
been appointed recently upon tho medical
staff of the' National Jewish Hospital for
Consumptives nt Denver, Colo., nnd Dr.
liny Mlchaols of the editorial staff of tho
Woman's Medical Journal. Is to be midlcnl
Inspector and teacher of hyglcno nt tin
Jewish Industrial school of Chicago.
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ESTAIE OF
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Dauaglic. Mich.
.Vakrrt nt ftrtkwUK'i Haund
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NESS, and WRINKLES NOT CAUSED
BY FACIAL EXPRESSION. : : : : :
Does not cover up but removes the blemish.
RaceT3leach
BRIGHTENS, CLEARS and BEAUTIFIES the COMPLEXION
Improves Good' Skin nnd Works Wonders tvUh a Bid One.
ITS MERITS KNOWN THE WORLD
OVER. USED AND RECOMMENDED
BY REFINED PEOPLE EVERYWHERE.
cAbsotateh Harmless and :huMs Successful,
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t)
3
8
Drop In d ,.kt.b.re .lP:.
We nlways carry a full line of Mme. A. R"PPt'n dray Hair Restorative,
Bcyptlan Balm, Almond Oil Complexion Soap and Hair Tonic
Cull nd hTcll.Blr m.HU orpUln.d to you.
Ask for Mmc. Svpert'i book. " HOW TO BE BEAUTIFUL." FREEm
0
KUHN & CO.,
The Reliable Prescription Pharmacists,
Sole Agents for Omaha.
D
9
We Sell
BLAXKE'S FAMOUS FAUST BLEND,
the fluent Coffee in the world.
II. J. Hughes, 24th and Cuming Streets,
Omaha, Nolm, Thnne 1530.
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