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MAIDEN KHOM INTKHI011 JAVA.
(Copyright, 1001, by Frnnl: O. Carpenter)
BATAVIA. Jnvn, July 21. (Special
Correspondence of Tlio lieu.) I
have t'ome from Australia to Java
to toll yon how tlio Dutch are
mnnnging their colonial umpire. Their
possessions tonslst of a vast archipelago
Just south of tho Philippine Islands. It
lies on both sides of tho equator and Is
Inhabited by peoples, savngo and civilized,
who havo all the characteristics of our
Filipinos. Some of tho Islands have been
governed by Dutch olllclnls for centuries.
They havo been the scenes of all sorts of
colonial experiments and they cannot but
furnish valuable lessons to us In the
management of our Philippine possessions.
Hut first let mo givo you some idea of
tho Dutch Knst Indies. You luiow tho lit
tle country of Holland. It Is hardly more
than a watery pimple on tho broad face of
Europe. The Dutch territories here are
sixty times as largo as their possessions in
Kurope. They nre one-fifth the size of the
wholo United States, Including Alaska, and
so largo that you could put our Atlantic
states nnd also Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky,
Tennessee and Mississippi in them and
havo room to spare. These territories con
tain 31,000,000 people, or seven times tho
population of Holland. They havo half as
many peoplo as the whole United States
had in 1SS0 and on some of the Islands
there nro moro people to tho square mile
than In nny other part of the world.
UlK InIiiiiiIh Owned ly Hie llntoli.
I had no idea of the size of the Dutch
colonial empire until I came here. They
havo Islands which nre principalities In
themselves. Tnko Sumatra, the soil of
which Is as fat ns that of tho Nile, and
which has petroleum nnd undeveloped min
eral resources. That Island Is longer than
from New York to Chicago and as wldo ns
from Boston to Vnt hington. It is larger
than nny of tho United States except Texas
and it Ilea right next to Singapore, on one
of tho chief Undo routes of tho world.
Take Ilornco, which Is also uiipro'pscted
Tho Dutch own moro land there than all
New England nddod to Now Jersey, Penn
sylvania and Ohio. They havo moro ter
ritory In Now (Julnca than Callfornli, nnd
In the Celebes there is twice us much land
ift In Indiana. Tho Timor nrchlpolngo.
through which my Btenmer wound Its way
from Torres strait to Datavla, lias nn nrn
twice that of Massachusetts nnd In that
Journey, which lasted two weeks, It seemed
to me I could not get out of sight of Islands
owned by tho Dutch, There xvero Islands
nil tho way nnd If you will look nt tho map
you will see thnt they spot the Indian
ocean llko stepping stones on n straight
path ns long as from Now York City to
Salt Iike, nil tho way from southern Asia
to beyond Australia.
l'rlnoe of Colonial I'oxxoNNlnnn.
All of theso Islands of which I hive
spoken arc comparatively undeveloped.
They nro Inhabited chiefly by savages and
no ono knows Just what they nro worth.
It is different with Java, from whero this
letter Is wrltton. This Is tho cnpltal of
Asiatic Holland nnd it has been tho place
whero the Dutch have mado their colonial
experiments. Thry hnd possession of It
when Shnkespcaro was yet living and they
havo been ruling it ever since, until thoy
have now mado It tho garden of tho trrpld,
tho Switzerland of tho 1'nclflc ami tho won
der of the world ns to colonial manage
ment. Think of nn Island only ns largo as the
stato of Now York which is supporting
.comfortably moro than 25,000,000 people.
That Is Java. It Is less than 700 miles long
and from .10 to 130 miles wldo, but It
has moro people than nil tho rest of
tho -irchlpelngo of which It forms a part.
It Is about an big ns Luzon or Mindanao
and Its soli Is of much tho snmo chnrnctor,
I havo nlroady traveled through parts of it
nnd I havo yet to meet n natlvo who looks
hungry. The country Is feeding Itself nnd
in nddltloa is sending nway $80,000,000
worth of goods every ynr. It 1h not only
feeding tho nntlvcs, but ft Is making for
Possessions
tunes for Dutch capitalists. It Is covered
With plantations of sugar, coffee nnd qui
nine and 1 ntn told that tho Dutch Invest
ments in It nlroady amount to more than
$12.'i.000.000. In future letters I shall show
where tho money Is placed nnd tell you
something as to the profits.
Ititllroiiiln, Tclom-iipliN SoIiimiN,
The Jnvn of today shows tis what tho
Philippines may bo in the future. It U al
ready a land of railroads, telegraphs ami
schools. Yon can got ns giMid nn educa
tion here In Ilatavla as In tho average
American city. I can telephone from the
hotel whore 1 am stopping to cities and vil
lages nil over tho country nnd on tho long
distance can bo connected with Soerbaya,
on tho other side of tho Island, which is
ns far away from here as from Washing
ton to Cleveland. I expect to travel all
over this Island on railroads and 1 could
go on n bicycle or nn nutomobllo through
every part of It. Tho Dutch have built
hero the host wagon roads of tho world
nnd thnt notwithstanding tho tropical
Hoods and ether water problems that wo
havo In the Philippines. It Is ns cheap to
telegraph hero as In tho United States, am!.
In fact, there are all sorts of modem im
provements. In IllltllVllI,
But let mo toll you something about
IJatavia, tho city from which this letter Is
dated. It Is next to the largest city of
Asiatic Holland and Is tho capital of Java.
Tlio town was founded when PuriM'Htu.
White, the first baby born In the United
States, was making his first squall In ills
cradlo at Plymouth, and It Is now a city
of 115,000 peoplo, with a vast population of
natives p the country nbout It.
Nntnvla Is situated nt the eastern end of
tho Island, nt tho mouth of tho TJIllwong
river, ar.d not far from the harbor of Tand
Jong Prick, with which It Is connected by
railroad and canal. I landed at the harbor
on my ship from Thuisd.iy Island and was
quickly passed through tho customs nnd
came to llatnvla In nln ut halt nn hour by
rail. Tho town consists of two parts, a
lower nnd nn upper. The lower, which Is
Ilatavla proper, comprises tho government
others, tho chief exporting nnd Importing
houses and nil the old buildings. It Is not
unlike a city of Holland. A wide canal
runs through tlio prhulpal street and tho
houses along this have white walls nnd
sharp overhanging roofs of red tile. They
are just llko tho buildings In parts of Rot
terdam and Tlio Hague, and with their
Dutch signs nnd Dutch merchants would
not bo out of place If lifted up bodily and
dropped down In tho Netherlands.
Tho town lias many natives and many
Chinese. It is surrounded by small houses
and It Is very unhealthy.
In llt-itutlful WcllcvrcMli-n.
From Hatavln a wide road runs for four
miles along the canal, the canal and mail
being lined with houses on both shies, until
it reaches the city of Woltevrodeti, which
Is tho great residence city of the Dutch In
the East Indies. Tills Is one of the most
beautiful cities In tho world. It is n
gigantic pn-k In which not only tho homes
of tho people, but oven tho stores nnd Hie
business houses havo gardens nnd tropical
trees about them. There are public squares
containing hundreds of acres, there nro
great avenues of palms nnd vast collec
tions of orchids ami beautiful (lowers nnd
all tho sutroundlngs of falrylnnd.
Take the King's plain, for instance. This
Is n park n mile square almost in tho cen
ter of tlio city. It contains more than .r00
acres nnd it is one vast stretch of olvoty
lawn. Thoro nro roads running around It
which nro ns f'liiootli ns those of Central
park and back of these, looking out through
tho trees, arc the villas of the nabobs of
this Dutch capital. Each of them has
grounds about it with so many curious
plants within them thnt it would ho n
very botanical garden nnyxvhro else. Here
tho driveway up to tho house Is between
two rows of royal palms, nnd there It Is
between nn arbor of shndo trees so gigantic
Hint you -vlll not see their like ouslde
Jnvn.
Tho houses nro nil classic Crook archi
tecture married to the red tiles of tho
Dutch roofs. They nro painted whlto to
represent marble, and each of them has a
great veranda uphold by Ionic, Doric or
Corinthian columns. Tho people sit on
tho verandaB but tho rooms within nro so
largo and nlry that thoy seem qulto ns
cool. Tho most of the houses nro floored
with stone. Mnny havo tables of I nllan
mnrblo or mosaic. Very few of the resi
dences nro of moro thnn one story, but
they cover n great space. Some houses
havo nnallor houses nwny from tho main
building reached by covered ways. Thcs"
nro guest houses, and are so made that tho
guests may have a llttlo house to them
selves and ho Independent of their hnsts
If they wish excepting nt meals.
I.IIMirlllllH llflllll'N (if lllC Ullll'll.
I wish I could show you how some of
theso Dutch live nwny down bote among
tho so-called savnges on the edgo of tho
equator. I venture It you could soo their
homes many of you would go to the Philip
pines nnd build nthor3 llko them. Their
gardens nr" better thnn those of nny mil
lionaire In tlio United States, and Presi
dent McKlnley with his While House con
servatories has no flowers for his recep
tions llko thoso 1 soo hero.
Thoro Is no Inek of furniture. The Btores
of Weltevrcdcn are supplied by the host
establishments of Holland, nnd you can
buy every luxury In tho way of hooks,
paintings, notions nnd furniture. All sorts
of Holland
of foods made in Europe nre sold, nnd tho
country raises vegetables and fruits of
every description. Tho place Is ono where
you get lots for your money, hut whero
nevertheless it costs lots to live. Every
one lives up to his Income nnd a little be
yond It. Tho Dutch gentlemen dross bettor
on tho nvorngo than our people at homo
Thoy nre sticklers for etiquette, and one
daie not anept an Invitation 10 dltim r with
out he has a awalluwtull suit.
Mulit n( the Coiieoi'tlla t!nli.
I put on my store clothes tho other night
and went to a concert at tho Concordia club.
Untax In bus two swell clubs, ench of xvhlu.li
has several hundred members. Doth have
club houses which xvould be considered lino
in New York or Washington and tho Con
cordia lias a groat garden nbout It, xvhere
every Saturday night Its members give a
concert to their rnmlllcs nnd friends. Tho
music is furnished by ono of tho military
bauds nnd It Is as good as any you xxl 1
hear In the great gardens of Europe.
Last Saturday night the band sat In a
stand In tlio open air, while the audlcnco
was 3oated on chairs about tho tnbles In
tlio tropical garden In front of tho club
house. The light was furnished by hun
dreds of whlte-globcd lamps, which hung
from the trees, nnd nlso by tlio rays of the
full moon, filtered through tho green
palms.
There wore, I Judge, nt least n thousand
ladles and gentlemen present, nnd ns we
sat there, limiting nnd drinking, stately
untlvo waiters In turbans nnd livery trotted
nbout in tlielr bare feet nnd waited
upon us. Tho people at tho tables xvero as
well dressed as -my European eroxvd and ns
fashionably dressed as the averago audience
of out toiicirts nt homo. With tho ex
ception of the military officers, xvho xvero
clnd in xvhlto duck, with gold lace and
brass buttons, the men wore black clothes
and 1 ho women wore bonnets and well-lit-ling
dresses.
In the intervals I walked through tho club
house. It was floored wit li Italian marble
and parts of it were walled xvlth great mir
rors. It has n library nnd newspaper
room, a large billiard room and halls for
darning and enrd playing and nil the con
veniences of tho best clubs the xvorld
over. Another night I spent at the Har
monic club, xvhero the concert xvas equally
good.
(luecr IIiiU'In TIioho.
I mil stopping nt the Hotel des Ind, one
of tho largest In the far east and by all
odds the largest In the Dutch East Indies.
It is situated on tho right side of the
canal on tho edge of Woltovreden as you
come up from Ilatavla. It has something
llko ton ncrcs of gardens nbout It, all
shaded by magnificent trees. Thoro Is a
banyan 'roe, covering a good city lot, in
front of tlio veranda and thoro nro pnlms
nnd other trees In front of my room. Tho
houso consists or two long roxvs of rooms
opening out on nrendes or cloisters on ench
sldo of tho grounds, xvlth n parlor and din
ing room and olllces at the back. I don't
know how many rooms there nre, but they
must number hundreds nnd every ono Is
on tho first floor. I hnvo two rooms open
ing Into each other nnd I nlso use tho pnvo
nient In front of my door. It Is there I
loaf In my pnjnmas and bare foot from day
break until 8 or 0 o'clock In tho morning
nnd nlso ngnln nfter my afternoon nap
from 3 until 0. I am by no means tho
only bnrefnotcd, lightly clnd guest. Thoro
Is n xvomnn next door who xvenrs only n
thin mother hubbnrd nnd too slippers, with
out stockings, excopt when she Is dressed
for the evening. I see her nnd her Iiub
hand trotting by every morning in their
bare feet, each carrying n towel, on their
way to the bath and they ent bcsldo me
In much the snmo costume.
I don't know that I llko tho Dutch man-
in the Far
nor of eating. Thoro Is plenty of food,
hut tho way of serving it Is so strange
that 1 four for my liver. As siun as I
awake in tho morning my boy brings mo
n cup of coffee. This 1 nin epi-. ted to
take In the room or on the pavement out
side. I can have It as onrl ns o'clock
nnd oven at that hour 1 always find others
drinking. Tho coffee Is served from a
I1AUHOK AT IIATAVIA
vinegar cruet, being absolute!) 'dd as
it Is poured out. It is ir.ixdo by dd nitra
tion nnd Is merely tho extract of coffee.
Tho hoy puts n spoonful or two into my
cup nnd Alls It up xvlth hot mill, ami the
eoffeo Is made. He gives 1110 11 1 miplo of
lumps of sugar, but no broad nor tu.ixt nor
anything solid.
Tho next meal is "ontbljt." Ymi need
not pronout.ee It; It merely means break
fast. It consists of cold meat and fruit,
xvlth perhaps soft-boiled eggs, whuh al
xxays come on half cold. Tho n. t meal
is "rljsttnfcl," or rice table tins is
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luncheon; It I n mixture of rlco with
every eoncolxnblo meat and vegetable un
der tho sun. You are expected to half
till your soup plate with rlco, pile the other
things on top nnd then stir tho wholo up
together and shovel down until the vacant
space In your anatomy Is tilled. 1 do dlf
fereutly. 1 lake the rlco and one or two
moats nnd pass by the rest, so that my
method of eating Is not a fair sample of
the custom.
Xleiil of 11 Dutch XI11I1I
I onu bettor deseilbo It by tollllng you
xvhut tine Hleiub r Dutch gill who sat be
side 1110 today ato at this meal. Ah she
came in to the table I could see tho out
lines of her fot 111 plainly through her thin
Jacket and calico Huroug, or single skirt,
which th" women hero consider enough ex
cept xvheii 011 dross parade, and had 1 dared
(Continued on Eighth Page.)
Fruits
