August 2(1, 1000.
THE ILLUSTRATED HE E.
5
Sewing Machines
Have Worked Wonders
When sewing machines camo In fifty nmclilncs, with four needles, carrying ns
years ngo, relates the Chicago Times-Herald, many threatls. These all work at once, anil,
women went wild over them. There was no with the sumo amount of labor, do four
end to tho milling and tucking and stitching seams where the household machine does
that decorated gowns and wraps and gar- only one. With this four-needle machine
incuts of every kind. It became quite a a single girl has been known to put tho
fad to huvo machine-sown things, and the ornamental stitching on forty dozen pairs
woman that couldn't show fancy stitching 0f gloves In a day.
on nt least one gown was regardeil as hope- All KIiiiIn of Itttrlciiti' HtltelifN.
lessly behind the procession. The machine Still another glove machine has three
has grown In usefulness. It has broadened needles, which can make the zigzag Hues on
Its scopo and stretched out to bo not only tho backs and these In as many different
a necessary article In the houto, like a colored threads.
chair or a table, but It has developed Into The buttonhole machine Is another vh-
un artistic Implement. There Is hardly any rlety. It nppears almost uncanny with Its
limit to what It can do. . cutting of tho buttonhole flrut and the w rk-
It has to stop at boring Its slender needle Ing of tho raw edgiw afterward. The but
through steel and Iron, but that Is about all. tonholes In shirts, collars and cuffs, ve3t,
There Is no end to the labor It can perform trousers, children's underwear and shirt
and no counting of the labor 11 has saved waists are nil mado by n machine which
womankind If only tho running of plain, will do tho work of four or live hund-work-stralghtaway
seams Is considered. era, according to tho skill of the operat r.
Tho sewing machine Is like the baby, It Is The eyelet machine differs from the but
universal and has Its good spells and Its bad tonholu machlno and Is employed for cur
ones, nnd Is apt to try a woman's nerve. Hut tain lines of knit goods and heavy sweat
after having either the woman wouldn't ex- era. It nlso Is used to make plain anil
1st without It unless she had to, and she ornamental eyelet holes In cloth or leather,
would make a desperate effort to supply the or for covering metal eyelets with what Is
lack. known an a purl Htltch. The machine for
Feu- CIiiiiikcn from Original, sewing on buttons ought to command a big
The developed machine shows few changes market among bachelors, who havo been
from tho original one made by Ellas Howe, wiring on theso convenient addenda to varl-
The same Idea Is the basis for all the ma- ous garments. Tho machlno turns the but-
chlncu which Hood the country and mas- ton and tho needlo drops Into each hole with
quornde under a dozen different names. The unerring accuracy.
chief change Is In a wider arm, which per- Another special machine, with a curved
mlts the passing of large articles uuder It. needle, Is ndapted to lino Btltchlng on white of cording nt tho head of a hem. Clusters or aio constantly used and as constantly get good thing but. alas' she has never known
Tho machines designed for homo use havo goods and la used largely in tho manufac- tucks appear miraculously almost, with the ting out of order. the ccstney of asking John for 10 cents to
this nrm stretched less than those for i u- turo of Bhlrts, collars nnd cuffs. Special proper attachment, nnd It 1b no puzzling task The artistic possibilities In tho sewing ay street car fate, nnd she has never em
ployment In factories, but even theso are hemmers belong to these and special felling to gather a rufllo and put It on a garment machine havo been proved as they have in leriemed (be bliss of hearing him growl
Considerably longer than the first ones. The attachment assist In tho llnlnhlng of the at u slnglo sewing. Tho neatness nnd dls- tho case of the camera. It, however, needs about tho price of her Master bonnet and
feeds are all wider, showing live nnd six Beams. Tho very newest machlno not only patch which attend tho uso of tho machine an artist to bring them out in the one as groan over tho monthly grocery bill. Hero
rows nf tooth, where tho original machines does applique work, hut It cuts out the which turns tho edgo of tho rufllo and sews k In tho other. tho "element of tragedy" looms up very
had but three. Tho advancement most ap- pattern before puttlug tho applique on tho no 0f iaco on n a encouraging to a woman Tho beautiful embroideries that grow un- largo Indeed.
predated by the housekeeper Is that In tho foundation. Tho lino applique work on i,ont upon having her summer gowns and dor tho procure foot and tho "sot ding" dune There is no uso tnlklng about It. Miss
direction of lightness. horse blankets of wool or felt Is nil dono petticoats conform to tho frilly, ruffly cf- by tho machine needlo have all tho smooth- Anthony had missed n lot of things. It Ih
Tho old back-breaklug Btylo with heavy with this machine, which Is a great ndvance fucta Ilow i VOguo. ncss of hand work, and can bo nceonipllsheil said that on her last birthday she received
gear has given placo to easy, smooth-run- upon tho former one, which stitched along with tho correct attachment tho lovely In very much less time. Hut tho ordinary ll.i'OO letters congratulatory of the things
nlng affairs that requlro llttlo effort to the edge of tho pattern, but left the cutting Bl0.j lucjinK i,ecomi.B an accomplished fact, worker cannot do this embroidery. It ro- trim hail gained In hor eighty years of llfo.
koep them la motion. The ncUclessness of to be dono by hand. this Is tho fancy tucking seen on many ot quires skill In tho selection of tho colors and Hut there are wives nnd mothers who could
tho latest pattorus Is still another gain and ABldo from tho special machines, with tnu nnn,i80mo e waSt8. it shows tho tuck skill In tho manipulation of tho machine. cheerfully and heartily write her 300,00(1
tho modern house no longer vibratos to tho limited capacities, all thoso cnpablo of a caU(,at u,, at ntorvulB to form a shell. Tho l'nlutlngs nro copied with u wonderful do- ir.oro letters congratulatory of the things
Jarring of stitchers that suggest threshing great rango of work, Including extra thick thread stitching tho tuck and looping It for Bi'eo of nccuracy, nnd when done with silk she has missed,
machines. fabrics and leather, heavy carpets, rugs, tho 8hu ,9 tho gumo nnU (1()cg n ,ta work jiavu a richness of effect hard to describe. , ...
Tho most appreciated featuro of all, per- mattings, trunk covers, snlls and nwnlngo. at tho same time. Tho hemstitching attach- Hosa Uonheur's "Horso Kale," which has lailKCC VV OlllCll AbrOilU
haps, is tho improvement which prevents Then tho variety of attachments to the reg- int,nt8 ot American sewing mnchlnes havo been copied In this manner, as an ambitious T1 .,, ... ,., i.wi,....,... ..,,
, ...v.i ... t..i., i,,i, o.,.i .ivi (. nlar domestic mncli nns Is endless. Thnro . , ... .... .. i i,i.. ...i.i. rni.i.. .. 1 m 01 1'UMUIltI S mottl
itiu r ura J"b uun. iuw
.1 1 i... i i.. M.i,l
mreau into a uonciuss lungie. rooming
..i.... .1 .. .. .i.. i.i.u .1...
imu nit, ii'uiuci iuuiu iuu iui uuuii. iuu
old machlno used to havo of taking advan-
tagu of an uucuardnd tnntmmt nnd dropping
back for a rest as It were. It got the rest,
for It always took un hour's frenzied poking
wim iuu Hciuwuiivur uuu piumuj; wjiu u
needlo to clear out tho feed ready for work
again.
Iloou (ii Woniiiiilviiiil.
With so many favorable points to recom
mend It tho sewing machlno will always
havo Its placo In the hearts of women who
devote themsolveB to tho family work
basket or superintend tho emptying of It
by seamstresses. Fashion with tho caprlco
natural to It has to a certain extent turned
Its back upon tho useful machlno and tho
results achieved by it. It allows any
amount of Btltchlng on outor garmonts
and In obscuro scams whero tho ovou
stitches will never seo tho light, bu( It
scorns any opon display of machlno merit.
Underwear of tho highest Btylo must now
bo mado by hand. Thero must bo Indi
viduality In it and llttlo personal work
applied to It that would bo Impossible In
any other way.
It is claimed now, just what was claimed
for tho machlno work In tho beginning ot
its enreor, that tho garments aro stronger
and last longer and altogether havo a dif
ferent and more aristocratic air than nny
mero machlno mado articles could ovon
hope for. Women pay enormous prices for
theso dainties nnd prldo themselves on
their excluslvcncss and novelty. As much
us $10 Is paid nowadays for a slmplo pottt
coat made by hand, and that with but a
few- tucks and n single rutlle nt most to
finish tho lower edge. Tho handstltchlng
of table cloths and nnpklns Is Imporatlvo
almost, for this obviates tho turning up ot
tho hem when tho Iron Is applied to it.
Thero is no fraying and pulling out of tho
raw threads through rough handling, nnd
good housekeepers tnko tho tlmo nocessary
for neat handwork in advanco rat hor than
to glvo It afterward in repnlrs.
Mini)' (iriiilfN of Work.
Specializing goes on In connection with
sewing machines an in tho trades and arts,
Tho sowing machine for tho homo Is qultn
different from tho ono used In factories,
and tho machlno which sows up gloves
bears no resomblnnco to tho ono which
puts the Inch-long stitches In ennvns bags,
"Sufficient unto tho artlclo Is tho machlno
thereof," might apply to this specializing
of a household necessity, tho introduction
of which was regarded simply as a labor
saver for tho woman at homo.
Great factories now havo special ma
chines for special purposes, and tlioy also
havo special womon for running ench ma
chlno. At a glanco this division of labor
does not present Itself, but Investigation
shows that it oxlsts, and that tho plan
facilitates the various kinds of work as
nothing olso can.
Olovomnkors, for Instanco, havo a par
ticular machlno for their work. Thero Is
ft high lift foot, a special gaugo and n
ralBed work plato. For gloves that aro to
bo stitched on tho back thero nro othor
-- -
nrn in I nra unit rnnlnra nnrl tinmsl tchnru nnil
.u......o .mu ii uu iit,.laiiHUti.i UUu
Iiinlinrn nml ,inlllnrH nnil nnfforB nn.l ..in-
- - , ......
broldorera. Tho attachments aro all easily
ndjustcd, nnd their uso assures nn nccuracy
nd beauty of finish lraposslblo to obtalh
without them.
-" iiinm r nnil i.iinur.
it is no trick with ono of theso to place a
run- oi iieiusiiicuing uuuvo a iuck or a row
BEAUTIFUL IMPORTED
iB Ml ' ' iL KMHMmI
MMMMV-HWMfJrf nt '1'- HvMCn1' MMMll
MMMmT' 'Mt SmT urr' W Jfe1-xi vKmU" MMMMI
MMMMff 'MmCmK M'l MMMMm!
AN AUTUMN WALKING
i0r yt.nrs UOCIJ UBCU 111 IIIO 11IICI1 IUClOriCB Or
... . . . ... .
irnionii. nnti mnnv nn Amnr can wmimn imv.
T " ' " .. . . . . .
j iifs nauuKorcnieis anu piuow cases anu
si,ects at tho great Irish storo In London
,nay trnco ti,0 jocoratlvo portion of her pur-
chases to tho InvontlvonosB of her own coun-
trymen.
Tho mending and darning attachments aro
in great demand In hosnltnls nnd hotels and
oiner largo insmuiions wnoro tneso articles
JAPANESE KIMOUA.
HAT.
h;mii. iiuiv-iiMiu o u iui I 11. 11113 mu
i. i ...
won; oi nn eastern man. w no kol most ire-
in .... .', ..
" ui un lamnif; uiu uik ma us a
sculptor would to produce modeling. Tho
l'lcce Is valued at $r,000.
FtlSlliOll il()ClclS
For tho women readers who are looking
r iuu luietii in inns wo prim iu iiiuueiH
tins wick, tiio bpanisn turimn-sniipeii nai
shows a happy combination of velvet, wings,
satin ribbon and steel ornaments, nil in
varying shades of blue. It Is the latest
thing out for ho fall season.
Another model is an auH.mn wa king hat
of rough tweed mixture trimmed will, a
Old of brown velvet and w ngs harmonlz-
Ing In color with the tweed
The largo twH.-colu.nn picture Is ono of
ho most beaut ful Japanese Kl.nouas over
imported and is so graeefu " cut and
ndjustmcnt ns to bo worth studying, ihu
ground work Is an opalescent, blue, with
lines nnd llgures In scarlet, black and
green. Tho facing is of Ivory-toned crcpo,
and tho sash, a wide, soft scarf, mutches
tho garment.
Loss and Gain
Some western editor, commenting on the
honors nccorded Susan 11. Anthony on hue
Inst birthday, remarks that "after nil thero
Ih an element of tragedy In tho fact that
Miss Anthony has mlsicil wifehood and
motherhood, tho crowning honor and glory
of a woman's llfo."
It is undonlablo that Miss Anthony has
lulssod wifehood ami mothcrho'iri and In
summing up a woman's llfo It Is only fair
that we should count tho things she has
gained. Sho has gained tho love and rovur
onco of millions of peoplo now living nnd of
"millions yet to l.o," but then sho lias nuvur
known tho unspeakable bliss of nursing u
family of children through the measles,
U'lir.fit.l n i.nnll i.l. ntwl iiuin.iiu Ulu. I.fiu llvml
, .......
a useful and peifectly unselfish life, but sho
.I...,u..'i I,..,.,.. ,1.1.... I.. .1 ..1.1 ..I...... .1...
doesn't know a thing in tho world about tho
sorcun happiness that lies In being house
keeper, cook, chambermaid, nurse, seam
stress, hostess anil half a doon other things
ovury day In tho year till norvous prostra
tion puts an end to tho complicated busi
ness. Shu has stood on a thousand plat
forms and listened to tho applause of vast
nudlences, but sho doesn't know tho glory
nnu nouor tnoro is in picidng up a bucket of
hot Hiidb nnd climbing a stopladder to wash
tho doors and windows. All tho Joy nnd
mpturo of house cleaning In tho beautiful
month of May nro a sealed book to her. Sho
has mado tho llfo of womankind broader,
tluopor and higher than woman ever rirenmeri
It could be, but sho has no conception of the
breadth, depth and height of Hatlsfactlon to
bo found In nursing a baby through tho
'three months' colic." Sho has mado tho
world over, but she Is Ignorant of tho nbaii-'
tlon of Joy a woman feelB when she makes
over mi old dress for tho third lime, and
then sues John start off on his summer fish-
Ing trip. Sho has been free and Independent
always, and tho womon who are happier for
hor work will seo that she never lacks any
KPW1SH Tl'KHAN SHAPE.
, , I 111. II I III ll 1 1 i III 111 lll'il A III.. I' Inn nu Mini
Piomilieill poillli IIIUH UK) Alllt'l leans, II IK I
. .t
I w u m uieiinii u niiieii us iiuviug none miieil
to foster and strengthen the friendship be
tween tho two great ICngllsh speaking na
tions of tho world. I. ady llareourt and Mrs.
(iiiiniheiialii, though they huvo been their
husband's comrailes nml friends In the
lll'Ht MI'llHl. tlf till. U'fll'll llIIVl. Ifl.lll till. 111.
Ht,lvil!J a,()(f f,.()m , iur,y.,irly ()f po.
(llf) 4my Hsireouii Is the daughter of tho
,,., ,,,, ,.rl,,m m,,,!.... ,i,.. i,iUi,.,.i,.
all ,,,.,, ,.,. introduction to London
,,,, wh)o flUlui. waH AmurU.a
,.,. t(( (hu lollrt ()f Sl. JaIlu.H, MrH.
Chamberlain is regarded throughout HK-
,., aH , of ,, ml ,H ,,.
, Ami,rU,an wolminll()lllli aml ,
,(,Hl r(I),.(,H(,lltatlvi) of 1or ,,,. linci,H.
t()rH A,wn w(h ,, olllor ,
(lln ,,,,,, ,)r , ,
,)f lh() (f (!olmn()llH, Hho llI1H ,.,
i.r pmk.al life with u eharm and a Hentl-
... ,irn . ,,. ...
keenly iuleresled In every question she
has never vulgarized her political Ideas
or descended to tho lower arena into whit h
some KugUsli women degrade their political
sympathies.
The early death of Lord Randolph
Churchill while on tho threshold of tin
highest political position In tho country
deprived Lady Itandolph of tho position
which she must eventually havo occupied,
for sho nt out) moment seemed bound lo
become the wife of the future prime min
ister or Knglunri. Never was the promlhu
of a life ho blighted as his, anil the malady
which ho Insidiously undermined his lift)
was one of tho most unerring and fatal.
Reflections of a Bachelor
New York ress: A woman never for
gives ii man for Ills kindness In bringing
her husband homo drunk.
Probably the lovo of the angels for man
Is as tender nnd sweet as the lovo of an
old maid for tho now minister.
A man
,.
l" 111110
man can't plenso all women part of
or ono woman all of the time,
but ho can always smile nt all of their
babies.
SelllHlineHs probably never would have
existed If It weren't for lovo.
A woman can afford to forgive her
husband for everything except marrying
her.
r baby's smile Is the sweetest thing in
tho world; It Ih a combination of content-
ment, Idiocy, curdled milk and gums.
If men wero iih noble and heroic as their
wives think they nro thero would bo ho
many innnumenls around that the street
cars would all havo to run underground.
fi VCTajCS
ihitrolt Journal: Pletro tore his hair.
-j mv drained tho cup of disappoint -
merit." ho cried, "to the dregs!"
Tho beautiful fJrlsolda shuddered.
"i0W Imprudent!" hIio exclaimed. "In
,t weather ono should drink nothing bill
lukowarin 'water in which oatmeal Iiiih
been soaked. "
Shu truly pitied him In that hour, anil
pity Ih often the avant courier, as II wero,
of love.