.Tilly 12!), 1000.
Luxury in Modern
THE ILLUSTRATED 1J13I3.
Dress Takes Money
(Copyright, 1! m. by It. Arinitrnug. i
Most of I lie lime (if tile modern women of
wealth, luxury and fitsliloti Ih spent between
so'lal diversions mnl conferences with her
diissninkcr nml milliner; UHm Ih ii statement
that noiii' of them would attempt to ri'futi'
iiiul few would consider extraordinary.
One woman, It Is Hald, t ho wife of a mulll
mllllonalre. Is allowed only $5,000 a year for
htr clothes, and In unahlu to meet t tut de
mands of her eosttimcrs, paying a little to
I hln tradesman and a little to that dress
maker In order to keep her credit open. Tho
man of lier grade in society and wealth Ih
constantly between his tailor and the deep,
blue sea. One of these same tallnm. who
dresses the Jeuncsso doree, "the Johnnies,"
as they are called In the mole pic
turesque vernacular of the day, l respon
sible for the statement that a man can dress
neatly. If economical, on from $1,000 to $2.ooo
a year. This for his tailor only. Here Ih
the economical wardrobe:
Six s.iltH for knockabout wear at $"
eaeb $ 0
Three afternoon frock suits at $ini
each o"i
One cutaway Ml
Two dress suits al $!in M
One Tuxedo suit .SO
Overcoat or cloak for dress suit so
Spring overcoat l',."i
Heavy overcoat W
Three white dress waist coats at $10
each I'M
$1,201
A sum total of over $1,200 for the bare
external of the wardrobe, which may be
couihlcrably increased If the gentleman
drives, for he must then possess a driving
c at worth $120 and a tandem coat, for
which he will bo charged $S0. If he plays
golf he must have a Rolf vwt of knitted
silk, wool lined, the cent of which is $:I0,
and a coat for about the same price; In ad
dition, his golf knickerbockers are $10 a
pair (he will need nix pairs) and his golf
caps (there will be several) will be charged
at the rate of $:t each. That Is his outfit
for one golf club; as tho various clubs'
colors are different, he will need a distinct
outfit for each club of which he Is a member.
Tullor'N direful I'.Ht Ininte.
All this, it should he borne In mind. Is a
tailor's careful estimate of the bare esscn
tlalu of dnss. What a gentleman In the
social whirl and with a reassuring bank
account may fancy Is another ami usually
very substantial matter.
Mere Is a list of things not obtainable from
tho tailor that are usid by the modern
young man of luxury. It was made by the
pui chaser of a society man's wardrobe, and
Is guaranteed to be correct:
Twelve suits of silk underwear at not
less than $1S a suit $i:!2
Thirty-six pairs of silk socks ut 1 a
pair 1US
Twelve pairs of shoes for usual wear at
$l.r a pair ins
lllcyclc, golf siloes, bunting boots, danc
ing pumps, riding boots, etc loo
$7 is
These Ilgures bring the young man's
yearly expenditure for dress above $2,000.
Such an incidental Item of the toilet as sus
penders may cost anywhere fiont $:i up, anil
If the gentleman is particular in his choice
of buckles for the same ho will have them
(if gold, a matter of $."0 more. Ills evening
shirts cost about $7 apiece. In his shirt
front he follows the fashion of having peirl
studs, and those single stones are $:t,0()0.
for pearls aro expensive. If he likes the
glitter of diamonds the pearl may be stir
lounded with small diamonds. A d losklu
waistcoat, which goes with evening dress
tolls for $2.1, which Is not excessive when it
Is understood that his ordinary wulstcoaUi
aro $12 each. In his evening waiseoat he
will likely have jeweled buttons, of nine
thst or some such stone, and they are still
another Hem of expense.
As to his external clothes, he will have
at least a dozen business or knockabout
suits, for which a lallor will charge $S0
apiece; he will have three dress suits and
Tuxid in; a couple of Prince Alberts and
cutaway frocks will complete the regular
outfit. They will be worn with severe regard
to "form," in observance of which men are
much more particular than women.
The .Mini ill' I'iihIiIiiii,
Ills tweed suit will be worn until noon
when ho will don a I'rlnco Albert for after
noon wear; after C p. m. he will put on full
evening dress, If his evening Is to he spent
with women; If hia companions are to be
men hi' will wear a Tuxedo Jacket. With
his Tuxedo he will wear a blnck waistcoat
lie must also have raincoats and topcoats
for the different seasons. Ills heavy over
coat may represent any outlay from $100 to
several thousand dollars, according to the
quality of Its lining, which may be of fur
and then Its prlco Ik regulated by the kind
of skin that Is used. Then thero are spring
and fall overcoats, evening topciat or cloak
golf coats and a pink hunting coat, a p il
coat and driving coats.
For driving he will wear a padd ck coat
i.f livht gray, a high hat of the same color
with black band; shculd his vehicle he i
brake, he may wear a derby. On the tiillcu
of his toilet a goodly sum may be expended
the Item of handkerchiefs and gloves Is not
inconsiderable. Ills doeskin gloves are $1! a
pair and he inu.M have dfriciis and du.ens i f
white ones for evening wear. Ills handker
chiefs are of whlto linen, with embroidered
initials and perhaps plaid colored borders
for day use. In his pockets ho will have a
gold cigar or cigarette case, costing $1.S0 a
gold mat -h box. a gold knife, a $.10 gold key
Chain, a watch MOO mure and a fob costing
:U)0 additional. Ills rings, it is now or
dained, must be of I he siiuk-lu kind and J ru
se! with the most valuable stones, eineiahls,
sapphires, rubles and diamonds, represent
lug thousands of dotlais each. i:very well
dressed man must have a seal ring with
crest, If he carries a cane, and be sure that
he will, It will he gold topped and will cost
$100 at least. When he retires at night he
will wear a suit of silk pajamas, price $20.
and after rising he will go to his morning
plunge in a $,0 silk bath robe. This Ih man
as a dressed animal, as Ciuiylo was pleased
to call him.
Women Are Mint I:iiiiiiuiiiiI.
With women there Is greater extravagance
In dress, richer fabrics, a multitude of ac
cessories that make her attire cowtly beyond
all ordinary calculation. Her furs may
mean "the ransom of a king," and her Jew
els the revenue of a kingdom. Dress Is to
her a pursuit, an accomplishment, a weapon
of attraction, an argument of envy and a
spectacle of opulence run lint. It Is almost
mi emotion.
Many women are i oted for paiiiru:nr
fancies In their dress: Mrs. Clarence
Makay atl'ccts big picture hats; Mrs. Wil
liam Astor has the lines t Iiicch, Mm. (leorge
(ioukl's pink pearls and sables are remark
able, while Mrs. John Drcxel Is noted f r
her Jewels, and especially her beautiful e 1
lection of turquoise.
Some women who apparently care little
for dress will spend immense sums uu
their underclothing, using gorgeous laces
and gold ai" Jewels for the trimmings
and fastenings. The dainty woman has all
her uu Icrctnthcii hand made, and a set if
such lingerie costs not less than $:ir t' $.'o.
a sum that may be Increased by tl.e quallt
and quantity of lace used. Her hose are
of silk and cost from $0 to $10 a pair, and
her garters may represent any sum from
$10 to $,'00, owing to the bucklts and the
Jewels with which they are sit.
Her shoes are $1.1 a pair and her corsets
about $10. In the latter, she will probably
use gold eyelets and fasteners, and the cost
will be considerably more. Her petticoat
of silk will represent at least $00. Her
tailor made gowns cost from $1.1(1 up; her
leceptlou and evening dresses from $200 to
$7(i(i, and lace may be additionally used
that will run Into the thousands of dol
lars. Her hats cost trom $.10 to $100
apiece, the picture ones are about the lat
ter llgure, and If handsome fur Is ex
tensively used It will be several hundreds.
When Mrs. Howard (build's dressmaker
sued her recently, It will be remembered
that a velvet waist was listed at $80, a
muslin dress al $22,1 and a few modest
waists and dresses made the disputed ac
count over a thousand dollars, which the
dressmaker protested was not an excessive
bill.
While the gown may bo the featuro of a
woman's street toilet. It renlly plays a minor
part of her misnamed "full dress" costume
which she wears at the opera, or the ball,
or the dining. There is very little but
Jewels In evidence nbout her waist, a Hash
and glitter of gems on a small support of
fabric. Mrs. Astor's stomacher of diamonds
has long been conspicuous at the opeia
E2
LOUNGING (lOWN OF JAI'ANUSH SILK
paginal ami Mrs. Ccorge (iould has one
that is the feature of her toilet
How much may bo spent on trilles in
Jewelry may be estimated when a small
diamond side comb for the hair Is worth
$1,000. For Jewels, Indeed, constitute the
sum and substance of the wealthy woman's
attire; the stiff and costly brocades of
other days have given place to uu ordinary
foundation for the Jeweler's astronomical
devices which are displayed on the llrina
ment of lovely woman's body. Tho superb
cbtli or gold we no longer see; the gold Is
in a more concrete form and sustains the
weight of gems without number. Neither Is
the rare embroidery to be encountered any
more; everything In fabrics Is but a back
ground for the lapidary's skillful fancies t
Invest riches with a material representa
tion. Il is not enough to know that one has
money these days, but It must be hung
around a woman's neck ami put on her
person to glorify and extol. If Carlyle
Ilgures man as a clothed animal, he look
little heed of woman as a Jeweler's sign,
and as the gorgeous indicator of her fam
ily's wealth. These are her modern uses.
Stories About Women
A certain young man In Washington
society was very fond of discussing
Hclologleal and moral questions, and, oncn
started In, this hobby could scarcely be
headed In any other direction. He hnd
In en quite devo e 1 In Ills attention to one
young woman for as much as sis uionlhs.
but she had bei n unable to bring him to
Ills senses, though she was Mil. lug to con
fess that the had tried repeatedly to do
so. Of course, she hud done it In tie
dtlicate ways women have In I hose mailers,
but what he needed was a dub.
Not a grea while ago he was calling, as
usual, and as usual he was neglecting senti
ment for something that only makes a girl
tired. This time he was miiiallzlng on the
.temptations of life ami the pioneness of
people against them In whatever form I hey
might appear.
"However," be said, in conclusion, dis
playing a commeudiible spirit of charily for
the weak, "it Is n very illlllcult thing fin
ally one to say 'No.' "
Here was an unexpected chance for In r.
"And eonver.-ely." she responded slowly,
n he could get the full force, of il, "It
should be very easy for one lo say 'Ves.' "
He looked her straight in Hie eyes ut lasl
and a hush fell upon the scene.
"Uin-er-ilin," he hesitated, "Miss Kale,
am 1 a chump?"
"It Is very illlllcult for one to say 'No,' "
she said with a pretty lit It It smile, and later
she -foul. il It quite easy to say "Ves."
A French paper n peals Ibis dialogue be
tween two women:
"And so you still receive that dreadful
Mine Comeagaln''"
Impossible to get her to take a hint'
WJl.IfiHTFUL SILK AND MNKN GOWN.
J'OI'UKAIl SU.M.M Kit MOHNINfi (SOWN
i)
Do you know, the last time she called 1
never offered her it chair!"
And what was the resuli?"
"Itesult' Why, the nest I line ulie came
die brought a folding uiirp stool?"
n obi Virginia gentleman nioe in a
nir the other day. relates Leslie's Weekl
and wlih a great llouiish of his slouch Inn
olfeied bis suil to a bcautUuI and hand
on.ely diessed woman.
'Tal.e in) seat seat, niadiim." he pili. l
lequesti d. The woman deniurrul. Tal.e
ti seat, I bir of you, inailain," he In
siMeil. "I could not allow a woman lo
Mud. unless," he aildtil under bin liteo'h.
she was one of those woman's rlghis
people."
The unman luislled up xlslhly. "I." she
nid In a freezing lone, "1 inn a 'woman s
rights person.' "
Take my seat, Just the salne. minium.'
aid the gallant old gentleman, stnlllngl) .
you me loo good-looking lo be suspccie I
of It If you hadn't eonfessi il."
"My wife has had lier curiosity appeased
In a way thai will sallsry lier for some
time." said the newly niariiiil man. as he
smiled, to u Delroll Free I'ress rep.iriei
Il was my Idea In mal.e our wedding
Hip us quid as possible and do awii) an
much us we could wllh Hie annoyance that
usually attends wedding couples. Hut l he
woman said that she was pn.ud of being
a bride, and thai she waiitnl lo hear Hie
ommeiits ihal the pet. pie would mal.e
Wllh this end In view she till upon I lu
ll a zy notion of playing deaf and diiuili
and going through a lot of monl.ey H.ilue-i
wllh our lingers to carry out the h. h.-ine
She reaoueil that this would cause pe.iple
lo tall. In our presence and Hum we w mid
be able lo hear what they said.
"I eppi sed the idiotic Idea from (in
stall, but what I said cut no llgure, and
I had to consent to the plan. Our tlril
chance to try the scheme occurred In u
lallway station where we were waiting
for a t I'll In. My wife commenced her pan
tomiuie, and I hud lo carry 11 out. feeling
like a fool while I was doing II. She
wobbled her lingers and I wobbled mine,
and we soon had every one staling at us
i here were two women seated back of
us, and the comments she desired Ho mill II
to hear soon came.
" 'It's a newly marrieil couple,' said one
'The poor things are deaf and dumb, isn t
II awful V
"'What do you suppi se he saw In her.'
asked the other. 'She is posllhcL
homely.'
" 'And I believe her hair Is bleach d.'
said the llrst unman.
" 'And her bat Is out of dnle,' wus tin
next startler.
" 'I I.a like an old i lie made over.'
was the reply.
"'Her dress wrinkles In the back,' sild
the llrst.
" 'She's 'M If she's a day, and she lo.ol.s
us if slio had u frlglillul temper, ' put In
one of them.
"ltlghl there my wife found her tongue,
and her remarks to tluse two wotin n lefl
no doubt about her having thai Important
article thai women ore suppiHtil to exer
cise so freely."
Fashion Model
This wick. In connection with mi article oi
"Luxury in Mo lorn Diess," wo print plctuies
of some of the most popular summer gowns
wi ru this season.
The lounging gown of Japanese sllli is a
M'ucoful Kimi'iia. The background is In
0 leutiil led, wllh u quaint Moral pattern
III green worked out ll It. The ell'eel
Is one of great elegance.
The trimming, consisting of uppllqued
la e anil eiubrolderv, comes ready supplied
fir this dellglitlul silk and linen gown
Tile color Is peach pink. The I Iny ribbon
it In as u braid In n I lack and red, with
dark red velvet In a band and reset te on
the bodice A mass of tea roses, wllh
their foliage aiilslleally urraiiged on n
-kclctnu frame, make u successful hat.
Linen lawns have been I he most popular
fi brlc for summer morning gowns Hi's s -a
' II The ll'etty dress photographed hep-
is of gray blue linen, trimmed rather club
(lately uilh black laee and black elvei
1 aby rilib ii The hat, of ilitrk blue s'raw
i in iiamenied with yellow r..H"H and blink
moire silk.
Walks Into Trouble
She had stopped on I he sldewnll. and
was admiring Hie beautiful Mowers In lln-
i nub ii. lepoiis the ludlanai oMs Sun.
"(i'want some'.'" asked Hie mild luuiiib.
h i was leaning against the fen.-e.
"Oh. how good of you!" she cooed ' Von
I ve here, then?"
"Sine" he unsweriil. ",llsl go light
ii an' help yourielf. The Lurd made
Powers free fer ev'rybi.dy what I think.
n' they ain't no uho In belli' a hog, l-
hey ""
she was still eistntbally ilmnkliig him
h n she entered the gale, bill he had
inried oil', merrily whistling on his wu.
'I wo minutes later she wiih irylng to ex
I lain to the angry gardener why she wa.
Hieie. and Hie angry gardener was giv
ing her a detailed history of "thai eusie 1
ouch kid ihal lives in the next block.
A Perplexing Problem
I'hiladiipbla North Amiiieuir "What me
sou puzlliig over"" asked the war eorre
I undent i f (be Valler in the far cum
"I don't know win-liter its a l.iuudiy
i beck or a Chinese war map " n plied the
Hpciml commissioner of the Dally Sall'rnn,