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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 7, 1900)
12 THE OMAHA DA1LV BEE : srN'DAY , .TA TAHY 7 , 1 < )00. ) iWiMM THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. Mimvivmit n\Ti ms or rvsinov CoHliinirH for limits "ml Old , fur nllllKTN tlllll Illltirr * . NHVV YORK. Jnn. 5 "With the solo exception of n wedding dress more elmrac- tcr , poetry and delicate pcntlment can bo expressed by an evening gown than any other costume n woman wenm So much fnlth do I mil In the Indication * of soul and temperament an slRnllled by these robes of light and beauty that should > ou show mo a girl's danr-in ? frock or n matron's dinner dress I believe I would very nearly tell you all about the wearers. Women , for Instance , -who patronlzo blue are nln- cero creatures. unnmumlnR nnl not a bit grasping In their methods , while a woman who wears pink Is a latent coquette , cold as Hhimny appear , and those who gown themselves In red thirst for attention , while " "Oh , RO on , RO on , " cried Incredulous but Interested Malsle , "but whcro did > ou acnulro all this mental maRlc' " Inquir ingly of tlio hoitosa , who sat In the shadow of her own bay window's lace curtains , daintily embroidering. "Oh , I chaperoned n pretty miss to a big dance laHt week , an assembly , and as my nnklo won't yet permit nny walt/lng , I hat against the wall , talked to the stray men and drew my bago conclusions and morallzatlonH from the sight of the gay world under the gim light. ( ion UN fur Muds. "The season Is HO young yet that all the dancing frocks were ns fresh aH dew TIID DEBUTANTE'S GOWN. sprinkled Howeis , and quite as pretty , and I took note- that all the glrlsjjiat may prop- tUhiio , In tints so piilo that they merel } euggcsted color. That is distinctly a Trench fashion , and 1 prl\ately commented on the numbers of buds whoso solo Jeweled ornaments were pins In the form of sprays or stars , fastening narrow neck bands of black velvet , the ends of which crossed In front over the young and pretty collar bone points and contrabted dazzlngly with the whlto throats. "Those who had not these ornaments ap peared wearing the quaintest old neckties of seed penrls. Seed pearls seem somehow very complimentary to fresh girlhood , just as an arrangement of the hair In n soft twist low at the back of the head Is per fectly In harmony with youth. Tli < - < ' ! > < ! Coll. "Out of a dozen buds , whose experience In this restless world of society extends over not moie than three weeks , I counted not loss than 8 per cent with their hair lu the Olytio coll. It Is qulto : i different knot from the Langtry , for It la not i > o lowdown - down and docs not hang In a clumsy club on the neck. Thcro Is a white pait run ning from brow to crown , and It appears moHt proper and coquettish to catch one gold filagree topped tucking comb In the soft bandeau just above the brow. Older women who follow this mode use a comb with a very open worked brilliant studded top to thrust In the front hair , while the stately dowagers have found Infinite pleas ure In the useof black lace wings artfullj edged with daz/llng rhlnestoncs. The hand somest tiaras are hardly moio effective than thcso wings , and If 1 had not put all my cabh and credit for months to come In one evening cloak I would bo displayIng - Ing ellln wings In my hair with the best. " CiorKi'oiiM i\rnliiK ClonKN. "There Is just the tub wo all feel now , " quoth the listener ruefully , snapping the lid of her jewel set cigarette case filled \vltu Innocuous visiting cards. "At my last ball bo beautiful and aho.vlly elaborate wcro many of tin- cloaks that the women deliberately were them Into the drawing room before * taking le.ivo of their hostess , trying to prctrnd they had forgotten thclt manners until the lovely wraps were donned. Some 1 saw were wholly e ! ruched chiffon upon a lining of ermine , with oollaiH Ilko fairy fortresses about the necks , and great bouquets of velvet flovvcrH on ono shoulder , whence down front and rear fell rope-s of blossoms , " "Shocking extravagance. " hlghed the hostess , enviously , "now mine does not came nearly up t < > that. Where I had in lace I hung plenty of whlto silk fringe. "Ostrich feather fans , " continued tht hostesH , "aro coming Into fashion with n rush , six-stick fans receiving the prefer ence o\or all others , and ono that capture. ! > ny fancy had three of Its dark tortoise shell sticks overlaid with dusky plumes and oycr three * spangled black gau/o waf t-trctched , and a mart ) brilliant thing jo'J cnii't Imagine , it was carried by a woninn who were an altogether entrancing and not to my calculating mind a cruelly expensive costume of an can do nil crepe de chine. ' , "With perfect confidence In her figure BH hud had It laid In broad over-lapping hori zontal tucks to her knees and below How tired forth a lloar-snccping llounco ade quately garnished with cream larc. Ilet waist was offset with a dear little U < 't Jacket held across the bust by a couple o ! black whet straps barred with t'ny ' bril liant buckles. 1 made It my business t < Digests what you eat. Ivartllittlullydlficstfithofoo'lamlnitis Nature in stroiiKt honing and recon- Gtructinrj tlio exhausted digestive or- cans. 11 is tlio latest discovered digest- ant ana tonic. Mu other picparatlon can approach it in ctllclcncy It in stantly relievestind pennuncntlycurer Dyapepsla , IndlBestiiui , Jicartbura , Flntulence , Sour .Stomach , Nausea , BIcklleadael Gastralgia ranips.and allotlierresiiltsof iniperfeetdlKestiou. by E. C. DeWItt & Co. Cblcaao. 'olsorp that her slippers were of blank kid with three straps over the- Instep and the toes sprinkled with black beads , amid which some tiny rhlnestoncs sparkled Those are the dancing shoes of the well dressed women I discovered at my ball "Thcro were some stunning flocks In cvl- denco as well , of satin antique , now al ways worn In preference to duchess satin , while pan no takes a third place In popular ity , and to my eyes It would seem ns If nil the women wore nothing but Incc for garnishment. " ilotv ( o I'm * I.noo. "And has > our acute vision also observed that the Inco on nil these fine frocks Is laid on Hat In the old-fashioned style , In order to bring out the beauty of the pattern , that Is , If It Is lace of nny charm nnd value whatsoNcr ? " chimed in Malslo. "No , I had not remarked that , but l'\o not failed to bo Impressed with the wonder ful n mount of sll\er gray the joung matrons wear. A sllvor gray satin antique , heartenol up with diamonds nnd point lace nnd cloaked with crmlno. Is Mrs. Jack Astor'e favorite Kown of this season. " "Ah , my dear girl , ono must have the flRUro and coloring of Mrs. Astor for that , " Interrupted Malsle , casting a glance , of frank disapproval at her own thin , dusky beauty in a big mirror opposite her chair. "Von should wear warm coral pinks , rich goldun jcllowB , In light cloudy goods milta- bio to juntil. Ilesldes , don't lot yourself bo Influenced In behalf of the heavy laces. They nro not for the joung and sprlghtful chear machlln , Louis Sixteenth and point do nlco are tha types the dressmakers Insist on for young girls. A perfect model for n. slender thing of just your ago I saw only jcstcrday pent from my conturlcre to Its owner , a bud of this season. Its skirt of palo lavender point esprit , stripexl perpendicularly every few Inches with an Insertion of mochlln , fell upon a foundation petticoat of puiu spring sky blue. The simple llttlo body with Its 'kerchief finish about the shoulders wns also made of lace and not over blue nnd the orna ments to be used with this were .1 necklet and pins set with amethyst. If the wearer of that gown Is in the least a pretty woman Imagine what a lovely picture she will make In IU" A sly smllo grow about the caller's red lips as the clock chlmod out the half hour and she snuggled her llowcr-llko face Into the depths of n chinchilla-lined collar. "Perhaps you will sco that lovely picture In the point esprit gown Eooncr than > ou guess , my dear , and for : our compliment on my taste I am no end obliged. " MARY nHANT. \V1I1CII IS TIIH HA.MMMliSTf ConiDiirallM' MiNiNtirriiiPittN of HiiNt- 'PII mid AVrMoni CollcKtCilrlN. . The most Interesting comparisons have boon drawn by Prof. Jay W. Seaver of Yale between the types of girlhood to bo found In the eastern and western section of the country from the statistics compiled by the authorities In the different colleges lu the two locnltles. The figures represent girls of the same age and general de\elopment , re ports the Philadelphia Times , and unless there are some marked differences through out the districts from which the institutions draw their students It would be safe to as sume that there was no difference In the physical characteristics of our women the country over. But some very striking dlf- foiences are found and from them the con clusion may bo deduced that the environment of our women Is affecting them and that the future may be moulded In proportion to the care that Is taken to counteract the mil effects of our surroundings and to enhance the good. The etndy that Pi of. Soa\er has made Includes o\er 0,000 girls. They are drawn from three localities. Ono reprebcnts the western typo purely , as typified In the Uni versity of Nebraska ; the second represents the middle western typo , as found In Ober- lln college , nnd the third class represents the eastern typo as displayed In the ranks of Wellesley college. It Is found that while they iMffer In minor respects there Is no material difference between the western and middle west. They may be classified to gether. Hut the eastern typeIs essentially distinctive nnd must bo considered alone. Unqucotlonably the principal difference lies In the greater percentage of urban popula- tl"n In the east than In the west , though the freer habits of the west contribute their share and the different progenlty of the districts , though almost obliterated , has a small Influence. But whatever the Influences that serve to produce the conditions they can bo well studied and the future genera tion of all districts Improved by a judicious use of suitable exorcises. rllero are some of the physical pecullnrltles that are disclosed bv the.se tnblcw. First , that the Wellesley woman Is taller and heavier thnn the typical woman of cither of the western groups , while Iho Obcilln nnd NebraKka women are about the same plzo and weight. The Increased frequency of the Teutonic clement In the western group probably accounts for the difference The eastern type partakes more of the long- legged and short-trunkcd t > pe which seems to bo chaiactcrlstlc of the tendency In modern development. The symmetry that exists In the length of the upper extremities Is tcmarkablo , al though there seems to bo a greater length of fcot In the cistern group than In either of the othem In girths the record of head circumference booms to bo larger In the eastern group , and according to the general law that ecems to obtain among men this larger girth of head U accompanied by n larger girth of neck , although all the chest moasuiements uro found to be considerably below tbo standard sot by either of the western colleges. This poor development of client Is In an Important region of the body and would scorn to Indicate less vitality and certainly less endurance- working power They also fall below In girth of hips , while the waist girth Is essentially the mine. In girth of upper arm the eastern groups excel , while In girth of forearm they are markedly deficient. This may bo explained If the western typo has been more accus tomed to phjfilcal work , which would tend to rcduco any fatty tissue fron the upper arm nnd would give marked muscular devel opment through the forearm Thlb conclu. alon would Fcem to bo established hv the larger thigh ineaciiremrnts found In the enhttrn group , as thin la a region that read ily lends Itself to storage of fatty tlesuc , and the larger calf girth would show exercise in walking. In hmidths the contour of the head Is dif ferent In the various groups , the broadest ono being found In the extreme west , where , as was calj , the Teutonic element Is proba- bl ) the largest. Ono would naturally expect tbo largust head breadth to be found In the east , whoru the head girth Is the largest The breadth of shoulders seems to be the same In all groups , although the broader neck Is found where the larger head has to Ixi bupported. In drpthti the eastern group leads , show ing a rounder tjpo of figure , and the Oborlln group seeing to bo especially deficient In this regard Th's ' mu > be duo to the farm life that has moulded so large a percentage lu this group , nnd that this Inlluence Is oblit erated to some rxtent by the Teutonic elo- mcnt In tbo far western group The chest t > po Is duo to foino Influence outside of college - lego life , or to a different form of physical training than is Inoguc > In the different In stitutions. Finally , It Is of great Interest to notice that the Nebraska woman has a much larger lung capacity , as she has larger chest girth , nnd this Item nlono would Indicate n higher typo of physical ability and n previous llfo of "greater activity than Is found In either of the two other classes. In this regard the eastern college seems to have a better rec ord than would bo anticipated from thr > girths , nnd It seems to bo a fact , derive 1 from a tabulation of the measurements of Oberlln students who have taken svstematlc exorcise , that this element rapidly Increased and that the Oberlln student should stand next to the Nebraska student In this particular. These , then , nro the main variations. The comparatively slight causcw that produce them arc encouraging In that they seem to Indicate that a correction of the evils la readily reached by the application of the proper remedy. It effectually argues the nccerslty nnd benefit of phjslcal culture. AVO.tlHN l.N iiljrTlllCITV. V Pit-Ill Wl SnU.Ml for Tin-in. Mllll ii I.V NOM In It. Thcro nro possibly tlfty women In the United States who have taken cither u fuller or a partial course In electricity at ono of the co-educational colleges or from private Instructors , reports the New York Sun. A few of thcso are now owners and managers of electric lighting and electric car plants In various parts of the country , nnd ono hears of them through the New York manu facturers of electrical goods. At nilenvlllo , N. Y. , at Hay City , Mich , at Saglnaw and other plac ° s nro electric plants run by women. Certain women students 1mc taken a course In electricity to supplement medical and surgical knowledge , and nro conducting private sanitariums In various places or are employed as assistant managers In hospitals and asylums where electricity is used as a remedial agent. Other students of electrical laws and principles have put their knowl edge to crcotlvo purposes and hn\o Invented articles moj-o or ICFS Important In the prac tical application of electricity. A host of women and many jouhg glils are employed in > the largo manufactories of electric goods. They make all the filaments for the lamps. They wind the anmturos for the dynamos. They wind nnd cover with spun silk or paper miles and miles of who , small and laige , used in the Induction coils , In the great underground cables nnd on the magnets for telephone receivers and switch- A QUIET ni r ILGG\XT : DINNKR DHKSS boards. Tbeso women tip all the cords , solder nil the important llttlo mediums , and do all the deft and dellcato work necessary In such departments. Three hundred nnd more women work on such matters In a blnglo New York City factory and a now workroom of wide capacity is Just beins added which will Rlvo work to 100 more. There are flvo or six expert forewomen In structing and supervising the others. In the factories at Hanlbon , Schencctady , I'ltts- buiR , Chicago and other places thete nro double and treble this number of women nnd girls. Semi ) arc meicly mechanical special ists working day in nnd day out with the same tools or machinery on the same part of the same order of substance. Others are \ersatllo and can turn their deftness to ac count In any needed direction. The first- class workers have the chance , of promotion and of having always steady work at good wages as long as they wihh to stay. The factories nro anxious for Intelligent girls to teach. There are several women who use their In sight Into eloctile science to wrlto wlyit maybe bo termed popular articles on the subject for vailous daily papers and poilodicals. Others glvo lectures on electricity In out-of-town places , nnd also glvo moro or less sound class Instruction nt prlvato school ? and In stitutions. Some women are advertising for the makers of agents electro-therapeu tical goojs and apparatus These women nro dulllclcntlycrtrd In their subject to speak Intelligently , evr > n eloquently , of the stock they hnndlo. And these goods range from the humbug electric hair brush , or elcctilo belts , to really high-grade apparatus. iiec- trlclty h nn agent that bends Itself readily to the sensationalist nml the smnttcrcrs In many lines , and It ban been taken up by many pcoplo who live b > duping the Ignorant or < ho cicdulous. Any ono Inqulilne Into the subject hears cf thrso just as ho hosrs of fakirs in other callings and professions , but the fact remains that , although the num ber of women graduates In electricity Is not one-fifth that of women graduates In law , In theology. In political science , In botany , those who have mastered the study have made a notable success of It. The foremost woman In electric s-lenco anywhere in the world Is Mrs. liertlm Ayr- ton of London She has madr very remark- nblnjnvestlgatlons of the phenomena of the ' elect'ilc arc nnd contributed valuable data on thla subject ( o the Important scientific Jouinale In May lost she read a paper before - fore the Knsllsh Institute of Electrical En- glnetrs , the first paper ever read before lhat body b > n woman , and It contained matter of much moment Wherever electrical nnd Bclcntlllrdoluotlons arc of value this woman's nnuio U known. She Is the wlfo of I'rof. W. E. Ayrton , the noted electrical authority , and U recognized In Oreat Brit ain , on the continent nnd hero In America , where elcictrlpol genius has made such great strider , us having beenof marked asulut- aneo to the science. She Is wholly n scien tist and has not put her Knowledge to prac tical use , except In the fundamental way of helping others tu eulightcument. There- nrr > other llnpllsh winm wb' ' > arc piadlcnlly ni < > lr\trlrlan The particular star n in out ; Amorlrnn women oloctrlclann Is Mlns Ilertha Lnmme of I'lttsburg , who te n full-Hedged electri cal engineer , with five years' pmetlenl work to her creJlt. Ml * Ijiinme Is on the stnft of engineers for the Wcotlnghouae Manu facturing company. She Is a graduate of the Ohio university and Is n unlive of Ohlp , of Dutch ancestry. She designs ma chinery. mnkiM calculations nnd does ct- nctly the work of n man electrical engineer. She Is between 2"i nnd 28 years old. A woman who Is familiar with Inlluence machine cells , altcrnatorH , batu rice , meters i and current controllers , 03 the majority of women me with bonnets nnd skirt extend ers , styles nnd fashion knlckknacks , la Dr. i Margaret Cleaves , formerly of Iowa , now of I New York. In matters pertaining to the ap plication of electricity 113 a phjslclan's agent ' she cccuplco n place In public esteem like i that which Mlna Lammo has won for herself a nn electrical engineer. In the words of an eminent authority , physicians , when they use electricity , are also electrical englneerf , only their workshop holds problems of hoilth and of life nnd death. Like- all people who do the things that are really worth while do ing , Dr. Clea\es keeps her own counsel as to her achievements , and but for the InKlltiK.s let fall at the electrical headquarters where she gets her apparatus , and the testimony Melded by the pupils she has taught , her ability would only be Known to those til- I rcctl } concerned , the physicians she has as- > slsted and the patients she helped She It chief director In an exclusively electro-thern- potltlc clinic nnd Instructs graduated physi cians dally and weekly In the principles of electricity as a curative medium. Kor eight months In- the year aho U Instructor and preceptor and has turned out more thnn fifty women graduates In this electro-medical branch of knowledge , nnd has a&elsted In the Instruction of men students who have filnco established schools of their own along the same llncc * . Gray-headed phvslclnns of twenty-live > ears In active practice nlleud this woman's clinic. These phjslclans come from all parts of the country , from Oicgon and Washington , fiom Alabama and Ten nessee nnd even from India. Ur Cleaves also writes for the medical Journals on sub jects pertaining to her woik and she has devised various electric apparatus tending to promote convenience In certain phases ot treatment. These are recognized as ofalue to the profession. Dr. Cleaves' proficiency Is additionally Interesting bec.iuno her college - lego and , later , her phjslclan'a course wire finished and complete some time before she took up the ilutly of electricity. A graduate of the Iowa State university , she had gained a name for heiojlf and held various Impor tant olllccs In Htato medical and charitable institution * , both In Iowa and In Pennsyl vania before she turned to electricity as an aid to medicine. She Is unmarried , ab sorbed in her profession and on every pos'- slblo occasion goes abroad for further htudy and experiment In electrical science. Dr. Cleaves was formerly Instiuctcr In electro therapeutics at the Post CJraduato Medical school , the only woman to occupy n place of the wort In any Now York hospital. Thcio are fitly ploslclans in this country having women assistants whom they have Instructed nnd who they say are elllciont In administering electric treatment. These women are famll'ar with the electric arc bath as n substitute for sunshine to a diseased or ailing body. They Know about hydro electric applications , gahanic ciinents and something about dose measurements. They are not scientists , but , from constant fa miliarity with electrical apparatus nnd its manipulation , they arc able to treat patients On the subject of women In electrical mat- tero it Is of Intercbt to know that ono of the ( he examiners In the electrical department at the patent ofllce In Washington Is a woman She has boon at her post for many > ears , and was ono of the first women In the coun try to study electricity as a science Her duties Include the keeping track of all In ventions and applications for inventions re lating to electricity in any form , and .she his to have practical as well ns scientific knowl edge of the availability of the articles sub mitted. Most of the patents granted to women In this department relate to medical appliance , some few to mechanical uses. AV AMJiLJvr i.on IITTIH. I'ropoNUl tn mi Iluy I'rint'fNN AVrlCti-ii ItMM I tears VK < > . The oldest known love loiter In the world Is In the Hrltlsh museum. H Is a proposal of man luge for the hand of nn Egyptian prlncceu and It was written 3,500 years ago It is In the form of un Inscribed brick , and Is therefore not only the oldest , but the most substantial love letter In existence. The first silver wedding dates back to the time of Hugues Capet. Two servants be longing to him Ind grown gray in bin s vice , a man and a woman , nnd what could ho do as a reward ? Calling the woman ho said "Your service Is great , greater than this man's whoso service Is great enough , for the woman alwajs finds \\orlc harder than a man , and , therefore , I will give you a reward. At your age , I know ot none better than a dowry nnd a husband. The dowry Is here this farm from this time forth be longs to you. If this man who has worked with you flvo and twenty > ears Is willing to marry you , then the husband Is ready. " "Your majesty , " said the old peasant , "how Is It poFslblo that we should marry , having already silver hnlrs ? " "Then It shall be n silver wedding , " and the King gave the couple silver enough to keep them In plenty. This soon became Known all over Franco and raised such enthusiasm that It became a fashion after twcnty-fivo years of married life to celebrate a sliver wedding. The practice of the wlfo assuming the husband's name at marriage a Hainan custom and originated soon after the Iloman occupation. Julio married to Pompey , became - came "Julia of Pompey. " In latter times married women olgned their names in the .same manner , but omitted the "of. " How ever , during the sixteenth nnd seventeenth centuries , the usage seems doubtful , since wo find Catharine Parreo signing herself after she had been twicemarried. . In Ice land the opposite- has nhvujH been thu custom. There , after marrU e , the husbana assumes the wife's name. The word "wedding" Is derived from the "wed" or security which the Anglo-Saxon bridegroom gave at espousals for the duo . Thin "wed" performance of hi * contract. was held by 'Uustees , and , In addition' ' to II , the groom were an espousal ring. As for the wedding ring , It was flist designed by I'romclheus , according to 'tradition ' , nnd fashlcned out of adamant and Iron by Tuba ! Cain , and was given by Adam to his ton to this end , that ho therewith should eepouec n wife. Our wedding cake Is the remains of n cus tom whereby a Roman bride held In her left hnnd three wheat cars , and many centuries later an English bride worea chaplet of v , heat. Tha hrldecmalds threw grains of coin or binall bits of cake upon the heads of the newly married and the guests picked up the pieces and ate them. The wedding eako did not eomo Into general use until the Intt century and was then eompo.se 1 of Eolld blocks , laid together , Iced all ov T , BO that when the outer crust was broken over the brldo's head the caKes liihldc fell on the floor and were distributed among ilu guests. Hrldal favors are of Danish oilgln. the trim lover's knot having been UrM diolgned by Danish hearth and deriving Its designation from the Danish truolofi - "I plight my troth. " The throwing of n slipper comes from the custom of a bhoe being given by the father of the bride to the now hiibband , In token of trunbtcrecce of power over her , tlu gloom Ushth tapping ih" bridi h.id with it The boil niftn l < < the iur\lvor of a ban ! of friends who ftptompnnled the miltor In hie wife winning and kept wiuch for him over the * bride's tribe , while the lover might the opportunity to carry off hl prl/e The hone ) moon Journej Is the hurried flight of thu husband with his wlfo to escape- the uiiKenncu of the pursuing tribe The picfcnla glviu the brldMtnnltta and ushers nro simply n relic of the rough bribery u < c\l by thi ) ancient bridegroom among his per sonal friends fo lhat they would nsalst in the capture ) of his chosen bride when the day arrived on which he had determined to carry her off. In the fifteenth century a brldu If one of the nrlsto.-rac ) often re ceived twenty rings from her iclntlvcs and six from iho bridegroom two when he became - came Interested in her , two for the ea- pc-usnl and two when they wore married I'rllN of Pii lilnn , Tulle- hats trimmed with erepe roses are one of the latest novelties. Genailio satln , trimmed with ehlffon and laee , make clinrmlug- evening dressus White cloth rut out In diamond-all ipcd opcnlngo lll'cd ' in with guipure hue , in < t made over pnle blue silk tot ins one of i 10 print-ess gown" . 1'nlo pink final oinninonu set with tl'a- ' mond.q lire urn ing the novelties In expul sive Jew ell y set forth for the winter trade. A hair net which fastens nt the b.uk of the head vvltli a fancy pin the tl/o of a small hut.on Is a novelty which Is sup posed to keep the fhort locks In plaie A pretty evening waist Is ninde Mf a lat- tlco design In Jet over white tnoimsollne d ( > sole , finished mound the netk with a drii- ] eij of whlto tulle nnd u bunch of pink roses. All sorts of linger rings put on ropardl. . s of harmony In color and shape are < on l l- ered vulgar by those who study cITc-i and good ta'ite In the U"e of jewels ns will ns gems and huts Thu rough diagonal and ehevlots for > r- vleeable talloi-gowns look heav.v , but tlu\ me woven so delicately and made "C HUP i tine , pine wool ns to weigh but little more than a firm tlrnp d'ele Tulle I'Vetiliitf gowns are made with bo\ plnl.oil skills , ihe pi ills beginning at ellli r Hide of the fiont nnd eMend'ng mound ti ! > luck or alt mound , as > ou Illtc , and caxuht down to the knee Another xkht of tirlir Is worn limitrnoath nnd tin- silk foundation rklrt should have no ulo"3 There l-i ! i new point to be e'irnni Kd 'he iiostlllon b.nks on some of the m vv waists and Etons of cloth , silk 01 Ml\it Th's Is u stjlo that Is moro becoming lo many women than any poit of loiind waist , however .smartly innde. and It the ends art- not exaggerated In length Is p.irtliulmlv good for plain tailor costumes of ilnth , tweed or ehovlot. Pointed , deeplv scalloped anil gi.uln.itid .silk filngos were among the Imported nnv- cities In diess trimmings shown to hollilm Choppers Thev me In various widths ami cnlois from the Tom Thnmli vailrU to stjle" half n j ml deep and llniKhc'd with very wMo netted tops Those revived ttlin- mlngs slum alto let , chenille and erlmpod faille ribbon an eighth of an Inrh wide. In termixed with the silk filuges of the moro elaborate variety The new Hlleii Terrv teagovvn suggest < both commit , luxury and quaint pi- tuienqueues" . Tt Is made of various ilrli or tlainti , fabric" , liitliidlng while in-hmeie dotted nnd striped In pink chorrv led mil other colois grin tlinn d'ete with old-c : > satin trimmings. piu > blue I lent let a tl th or camel's hair liordeicd with gray ' wun - - down , and a number of U"-s e\pens v Fiemh-made stjles. In plain and farev llannel and eiderdown-lined crepon TnlU Mxmt Women. A woman deputy United States maishnl has just been sworn Into service at Dallas'1 the first Instance of the kind In Tex.i" Mrs. George A Plllsbiir.v of Minneapolis madea Cirlstnia-t i > io ont of Jo,000 to tie Calvary IJautist church of that cltv. Mis J H Speio , an agent of the ( "o'i- rado Humane' society , served as one of the juiois nimmiined by the coroner to Invcs- tlg'atu n death the othcl day. Colorado bus had woman suffrage for six years , liu this appears to be the first case ot a woman serving on a juiy in l.iat 'late A \oung society ulrl of New York , Ills' HoatiK .Jones , a daughter of Mrs Cad- vvaladcr Jones , wants to be made land- sc-ape. artist for the groumlp of the now cafiedr.il of SS Pctoi ind Paul , Washing ton It Is said that he Is llkel > to got th appointment. Miss Jones has done this kind of work with succ-ess. That intellei t evi.inds early In the great west is shown hj M ! ' < I5elle Hemming of Pauls Valley. 1 T , who Is enl > 17 je.us old , and jet has been admitted lo prac Ice law at the bar of the Un'ted States court of the Northern dlsflct of the terrltorv Miss Flemmlni nas been amusing hersi If wl h Blackstone and Kent since she was 11 je.us old. That Sii'vin n Anthony Is a vlgoious woman des : > Ito her SO yeais was recently hewn In Detroit , when In thii > < > dijs she addressed a business college , tluec women's clubs attended two latKc dinners mil , i InntliKin given In her honoi , presided - sided at a rnit.it Ian mooting , visited hoi friends and Mil for i photogiaphcr Tno Connies" C'an.ivarro , a Texas girl \Uio man led I'oun C'.n.av mo , Poiliiguesn * < * * I * / SHOW1NC HOW SHE WEAIIS HER DIAMOND COMHS. minister lo Hawaii , t-omo fifteen jeais aici and vvlio left her husband to go to CV > lun vvHh Dhaimupala. a liuddhlsl priest , whom she mel at the Woild'a fair , has wiitten lo filonds in San I'"IUIICHCO | that she U In dls- ti < s and has applied 10 them feu a slbt- ance. Mile Anna Klumpke , who was Ilosii Hon- heur'H logatuo , II.IH Infuiined tlio piesldont of the .Society of Kiinoh Aitlsls that slit ) Intends to honor the memory nf her friend bv founding an annual Hosa Honhoui jnUo of $ .100. to be awaidod by the Jurv of tlui Hiilon foi the must mori otlous work ( if tlio year , without regard to thu sex or natlon- alltj of the artlbt Mis. J ( . " c'i.l > , who haf just roundul her seventy yeais , is the literal embodi ment of tlio woman's movement , bi-lng noi only the progenltai of woman's elubdom , but the pioneer pies's vvoniun of tin i nun- try. I'Vw of her c jntempoiui 'tri know that her pen name "Jennie June , " Is ono of i | | . sweetest lomlnUoi nc t i of her childhood When Bho W.IH onlv Ii .Miaii. of aio a BI n- tlemun vv TO had bun vlsltlnu her family wrote ID a friend "She IP the Jimelst llt- ile gill Itvei knew1' In nflei veurs when she made htr Ural adventuic Into piiiu nnd sought lei i hlKiiaiuri , Hlie i < moinbeiod the iinlnt | f.iii' ) and promptly became "Jennie June A SI.Ill ill lletniC ) In n . ! < > > Forever. 1)11. T. I ii.l\ : l.tll HAI ll's ciltir.NT VI cut .MAi.iti , mu iiriuu. nemavei Tnn , Pimple * , B , Moth IMtchm , Uuili and Bkln dli. casej , anil every tilemUh on bfnuty , and d flea deteo tl m It lm itood the ten of Gl ytan uiul la ' harinleu w taite It to bo nun ? It It pioperly mu.lc An rpt no oounifrfflt of ilml. I ir name Dr. U. A Havie ralj to a Undy oftno liaut-ton ( a iMilent ) "Ai you la < ic ) will UFO tlu ni J rcioiuiii jUi-ci Goiiraud'H Creim au the Iua8thani > < uluf all the Skin prcpuiMtlc" < Vn , BBloby all Urt. irlitlnandl-an. v Cioocls Uttlerslo " * * " " " > the UnliHd Stalin Canada , . a llurojiu. T UOJ'KIKS. i-rup r 7 Orsat Jont. M tl , T. < o > The < nte of three million botlle * of lht rlccnnt Imlr drr lnB In the United States nnJ Orcnt UrlUln In 1StfS proves surra . . .Ing met.t , Doctor Hay's KELP LOOKING Every Bottle Hair-Haalllt Warranted to rf inr < Rfny. whlto or produce * * now crrm'h MrBihr.l imir tfMoiilbful mt rrMnron color anil color ir.l llfo Not mile beauty to craj-lnlr llf- ilai rmt stnm cfulp or motcs H\MKIH * ( iml llnon lops I \l.l 1X14 nml llnonNOT A PUAVHAUl liroiltingoMholinir. t ov I I IT HP tetliinony of en tuM | ' 0t tiundrniU nmnix It Pr II A \ S II A III- A i I IV I OA1XTV IIKAl.TIIUpiftctlcall ) n HIM -si N ( , nr.i.i HMr KooJ. which net * on < VTM \ ii uii'Mii : > the roots RivinE thrm ( lie AXHN IMI'OltTANT required nourishment It AIM ! M T 10 t"V rilV \ * . nm.lo from Mmotiittly ion ii ii \ orii Jmro Tffrotahlo ingredi II Mil ! * I M I 1M1 ent * iiml ilnp not mil ctT 01 T. nut \M\i cm or make the li.ur Kronsjr LARGC 50c. BOTUCS. I1UM ! | > \V Cnl thl ih eft ncmi-nt nut will nPt immi' nml fuldn ' nml tiikelr. nnv dniirRldt on follow me lint , nml ho will ci'o yon ft inrsobMtloof J > ll , ,11 , \ " 4 ' 's IIAU I'll * A MKIJH \ I I'M ) IIAIIt-lir. M/l'll nml Mo c-ako of 1)11. IIA SOAP , ( lie Tir.i ( . r jou cm ) cfirllnlr Si nip I , miil | imn llnth nr.il'l ullM. 1ml Ii for "Ht fonts rneulir reliul iiri < o 74 cent * Pin olTor U cnml omomr to mine fnmm. J < ii i < v mi H lit iriiRfrvi ! liolnw nt Chplr sln.pt onlj . or l , > IOM > ( > \ sUPPIA . , SMIIrnulW > ow York , b > CII > BS | trr | > Mil , on roiript of OO rents ami this mlfotUft-ui m .J1 V > TRY AT ONCE DR. HAY'S ' HAIR-HEALTH AND HARFINA SOAP , Refuse Substitutes. Dealers Make More Prrflt on Inferior Preparations , To lonltm ilmnnlits iuni > uVS HUH lURfW SOM' at their storci o.i ! > : 81IKU.MAN- M.'CONNi : ! I , liUru I'd 1813 lodg . MYBII" I'll I ciN niU'ii i'i > I'Ui ' nml lurmun. J. A. PTI I LH ,1 TO 11th and Dn.iijl . m WAl.niinN * \MPI1 ! I 1 22. S Ifith mire ? mhxmv n > MOM , . . . . . . . . _ 111 SI voi1 \ \ . \ \ SIIAKI : IN TIII : IHS-IKIIU noN 01 sumo u ii it'll u i \ui t.tv INC ; A WAY i i .mi , it mi- > > k i ii n - i. j i i His llur ii M ill , il tlr * i nnd , I I I I ill n t N \ k n i < - I ri < > I I. i he I in , I si ins nnd i midiVK DC ) NOT \ \ ANT CM C'l.NT OP \ C l H MOMVV I. \ ii I , n i li- ul III- i inn s > l Ih , sr I u tli i | I i ! \ i i i M 11 . ml u (1 ( si Ml K l is it (1 \ . , ' . . . Il ikr . , . . , , . , l Ii Ih will hrir fr .11 is 1,1 I'.Y ItKTI UN VI MI. n I ni. c n s i I . mines hut STIC'K ' 1C ) IT AM > Tl'ID C.iT : \ CM 1C S1I\KI. or TUP sSI.CIIIO.i . , . . /1 M : \ , , ) . * l M' I Kl.l . c n\ .1 tins lull lisOM ; DOII.Alt M A I. A1 MV 11,1 It iiswrn.i. . I' ' . . , , Kr. s.,1 , I' ' i i - , . . ! \ . i n in im .1 fit \.l if s ItOltlNSO ! CO. , ' 11 > ortli millaiii Mrn't , juvv \iiiK ( lly. Jra 7Kim.vEt tftj 'j1aagaA-iftitifeSj& j i Einom < ytaon < > H Qon < 'noE < > DH < B < > i . < > Bo BD o wliy pliysicians don't pret-cribo ? ilk uiulorwcsir for everybody - ° body is , thai it is too dear for the average purse. a o H it is anti-rheumatic ; soothing to tlio nerves ; warm , fr light , pleasing to the touch and eye , in a word , it presents - o ? sents every desirable attribute , save that of low co t. tn G tnD D R Q is within reach of moderate purses. The wearer for the iirst time realizes luxury in underwear. H E Men's Shlits , 3I--H each $ . > .0 I , idii i \\sls 2G-IO , each . . ? - in E3 Mcn'a Drawers 2S-4J. on h $ . ! " 0 l.i Mi s DI.IVM 10 2i" SO. each ? - ' IJ ina E3Q Men's Union Suits. "M II cu h $ " " 0 Lielies t i n . ' 'nits. 21 ! 40 , ca ll * "i Oil Q Men's rnderveBts , 31 44 cih ? J OJ Uiith \vaUts i , 2C-40 , each $ J 0 I Ladles' Short Undcrskiits. 21-32 walot $ : M EI ALL LEADING STORES. EIo E3 If your dealer can't supply you we will. Imprest prepaid. o E3O SCOTEOSiLIC UNDERWEAR m m O iMILLIJL'RY , MAiS 13 aaB E4 > H -ataoEi < } > a ONE TRIAL BOTTLE This Offer Almost Surpasses Belief. An External Tonic Applied to the Skin Beautifies it as by Magic. THE DISCOVERY OF THE AGE A Woman Was the Inventor. Thousandn 1mvo tried from time Imme morial to fllBcovor si mo efficacious remedy for wrinkles and other Imperfections of the 1 complexion , but n < > ne had yet iiucceedcj un til the Misses Heir , the now famous Com plexion Specialists , of 78 Klfth avenue , New York City , offered the public their wonder ful Complexion Tonic. The reason so ninny failed to make this discovery bcfoie Is plain , because thty have not followed the right principle. Halms , Creams , Lotions , etc , never hnve n tonic effect upon the skin , bcnco the failure. The MISSIS : mu/s COMPLEXION TONIC has a most exlilllnratlng effect upon Ihe cuticle , absorbing and carr > liiB off all Impurities which the blood by Its mitur.il lUlon Is constantfy fortlnK tr > the surface of tbo bkln. It U to the skin what a vitaliz ing Ionic Is to the blrod and nerves , a kind f now life that Immediately exhilarates and itrcnglhons wherever applied. Its tonic , ef- [ ccl U fell almost Immediately ami It speed ily banishes forever from the vkln fiockloh , pimples , blackheads moth natcho * . wrinkle * i liver spots , roughness , olllnesb , eruptions and I aiBcolorallous nf uny kind In order that all maj bo benefited by their Oreat Discovery the Misled Htlr will , dur- IniT tha nriiitnnt ninntti it- * tn nil pnllrtm nt their parlori ono trial bottle of their Com plexion Tonic absolutely free and in order time thosa who cann > t cull or live awjy fruin New York may be benefited they ivill send ono bottle to any address , all charges prepaid , on receipt of 2. cents ( v amps or sllvor ) to cover cost of pin kltu ; and ilr > rivor- Ing The price of this vvonrleiful tunic U $1 00 per bultlo ami this llbfial off. r should bo embraced by all The MI.ISPH Hell liivn Juat rublliihod their NKW HOOK , " .SICMMTS : OF HIUUTY. " This valuublo wet I , IH ficc to all ileulring It The book trcatu exhaustively of the importance anco of a fiord cuninlexlon , lolls h vv womnn may acijulio beauty ami kc-c > I' ' Special chaptorH on the care of iht hair , how to have fuxurlura iirowth , hanulujri muthoils of making the hair preserve l < o natural beaul > and color , nvcn to advun ed age. Albo Instructions how to b r b auperlluoiis Imlr from the face , nn < k uad arms without Injury to thu skin 'I In i/ K will l > mailed to any nddrtss on uijiu.- * Kllii : : Trial Huttles of Woiidfiful f'om- plcxlon Tonlo free at parlors or V > ents ( rosi of packing and mailing ) to tin to at a distance. Correspondence cordially solldtcd Ad- THE MISSES BELL , 78 Fifth Av , , Ncw Vorit City. The MIstPs Dell's Toilet I'repaiatlons are for sale hi this city by KUHN & COMPANY. The Reliable Prescription Pharmacists , Pole Agents. if > th and Dou'JS ' Streets , IUKKISII T. fc l 1'll.l.biirtnRs monthly mc-n- " sti muiikiiri K , HI cl.ij jici\Cr < llMijiKimtyoii | jl KA 21 , , M , t l | ( mi ) | ty cu. , | , Hy liltlil . llulnr.sDruif Jloit , iBlhd.I'arnainOmaliBNcb. WTWfWPW
