November 20 , 1809. OMAHA ILLUSTRATED KEE.
1 Jewels for the Shoulders
NEW YOIIK , Nov. 24. ( Special Corre
spondence. ) "You can have no Idea what a
shock It was to my preferences and preju
dices this morning \\hcn my tailor Insisted
thnt my new cloth talking gown must bo
finished off with a long cloak. "
"Yes , " continued the woman In the Mor
ris chair , turning back her fawn-colored
cloth skirt over her knees , to bring Into vlow
a bewitching petticoat of palo rose Pekln
satin garnished , Hko a silver \\lllo\v tree ,
with deeply fringed pearl gray silk flounces.
"Yes , " ho Insisted , "and the worst of It
was I had to give In and order a long coat ;
not a coat to my hips or my kncca , my
dears , but clear to my feet , a box body
coat , and how my figure and my bill are
Going to look when It Is all done I shudder
< I t
WHITE GULLS AND ASH.
to contemplate. But you see there was no
appeal , for everybody , positively everybody ,
Is going to wear , or Is already wearing , a
long coat.
"However , we all have our burdens to
bear , and mine Is to bo a box-shaped coat
o gray unfinished worsted , just wide
enough at the foot to enable mo to step ,
because It will tic silt up four Inches In tbo
side seams. Smoke gray satin will bo the
lining ; I have to have a high up-turning
collar and two little rovers , folding to right
and left , over the double-breasted front.
"Tho ono scrap of silver lining to this
gray cloud will bo my pockets. I am al
lowed a largo ono on the right hand side.
An inserted pocket that will really hold
things , and I must wear ono button gray
glace kids with my tailor suit. "
C < > i > 'I"K MrH. Hurkc Hocjie.
"How cruelly trying those one-button ,
gloves are to bo sure , " commented the
hostess generally.
"Speaking of long coats , I admit that mine
Is a flragrant copy of ono I saw worn by
Mrs. Burke Rocho at the collegiate foot ball
match early in the month. Hers was rather
ample In the skirt and fell about four Inches
below her knees. The shoulders were so
stltchod that In the back and front a heavy
pointed yoke was formed and the cuffs were
stitched and turned back. Naturally there
was a towering collar and she wore her fur
boa outside the collar.
"Giving her searching glances through my
glass I observed that when the day grew
warm and the bon , a long-tipped fox , wan
taken off. she pulled It through her muff
si that the stuffed head hung out at ono
end and the tall and feet at the other , and
the beautiful skin was quite safe from nil
po alblllty of slipping away unawares. "
"What an eye you have for details , any-
wily , " commented the Inhabitant of the Mor-
rlmchalr onvliusly. "Is there anything now
lately In umbrellas ? "
' Ilrlo-n-llrnu Umbrella IIiiiiillfN ,
"Really , now , you know , " Interrupted the
hostess kindly , "motnl Is not nt all the pre
vailing Idea unless It Is an antique gold or
silver handle taken from on eighteenth cen
tury walking start or verger's wand. To
Imv ! an umbrella handle that ornamented
ono of Sheridan's Beau Brummel or .Charles
Fox walking sticks la a treasure 'indeed ,
but If jou can't have a fine bit of bric-a-
brac for the purpose then buy a slim , sleek
slender sllk-covcrcd frame with a long
Ivoiy cstrlch feather curling out for a han
dle , or ono of ebony or teak wood similarly
carved. Tl o handle must bo quite long
and the feather effect Is quite the newest
thing. Another motif , much admired In
ebony , Is the carved head of a black poodle ,
ono of the kind whoso hair grows in long
corda. Two star rubles , or star sapphires ,
Imitations of the true stones , of course , are
sot in the eyes. Pretty Mlsa Stuvesant Fish
and the llttlo MclC. Twombly debutante
I have soon carrying umbrellas with silver
handles ending In broad , thin disks. When
you touch n spring nt ono side of such a
disk a half of It slides back to reveal a llttlo
mirror set in the other half ; a pretty idea
for a debutante , I think.
Seen nt the Theater.
"Where I arrived at my conclusions con
cerning umbrellas the other day was at a
crowded and distinctly fashionable matineo.
At the beat theaters ono sees the women
gowned in all the latest and most bewitch
ing freaks of fashion. Sweeping the house
with my glasses I observed two very mo
mentous facts ; firstly , that the small , black
Liberty silk , or chiffon , or net boa Is no
more. It has been obliged to give way tea
a graceful and qulto as useful a substitute.
By this I mean the boa made of white , grayer
or black duck's down. My matinee friend
Informed mo they wore worn In Paris last ,
and instantly became ono of the toilet fix
tures , and If my eyes don't deceive mo they
will become part and parcel of every wardrobe -
robe in America.
"The deep feather down of an Arctic duck's
breast Is peeled off , cured and then mounted
In a band that goes once about the neck ,
fastens under the chin and lots fall a bib of
pretty ponpons , that roscmblo nothing BO
much as newly-fledged chickens , on the
chest , or clear to the waist lino. This down
has the tenderestt most caressing touch to
the skin imaginable , Is warm as fur
and just one-half as expensive ; besides , I
see that these black boas are counted as
mourning and white ones set off a young
girl's blooming complexion to the most daz
zling advantage.
"My second find In the way of fashion was
the now way the women have of doing their
hair. For the theater they roll It up In a
pompadour In front and draw all the back
hair far forward , to meet the pompadour on
the tiptop of the cranium. The Idea Is to
display a long line over the crown to the
nape , and the farther forward , without ap
pearing grotesque , that ono can pin one's
hair the longer and therefore the smarter
will the rear line he. But don't make a
grlovlous mistake of allowing the back hair
to draw tightly up from the neck , nor must
you let tags and uneven hairs to straggle
out behind , If your hair does not naturally
wave glvo a slight ondulo to the back hair ,
draw It up loosely but smoothly and Insert
some abort-toothed combs In the base of
thn cell , In order to hold the roar sweep of
hair firm and even. "
"I took some notes at tbo matinee , " gur
gled a pretty pink and white thing , toasting
her feet on the Jew brass fender. "It's my
contribution to the sum of the styloUiat
you have all been reckoning up. 1 saw the
sweetest llttlo actress In town dj It and I
luuo already followed her suit with sterling
success In my venture. She , poor ilrnr , has
a very thin nock , } oung , jou know , but the
collar bones do show ; so that she Is obliged
to wind many strings of beads nb ut her
thro.it to hide nature's niggardliness. Now
her back Is distinctly plump and ptclty ; an
at the rear of her pearl collar t-ho has hung
a skeleton heart of brilliants , It Is a lovely
ornnnu'tit that sparkles against the pretty
pink shoulders , draws Inevitable attention
to the Incipient dimples In the top of bur
charming shouldurblades and makes you
quite forgot all about the provoking collar
bones. That was a suggestion not to bo
overlooked and set ono to wondering why ,
after all , women will hang their pretty or
naments upon their chests and have the
shoulders bare. Well , at my next oppor
tunity , a llttlo dinner , I went proudly wearIng -
Ing my diamond heart a-hangtng down my
back , and If you 'will ' believe me , every
woman nt that meal had evidently boon to
that play and reasoned as I did. frr seven
hearts twinkled between seven pair of shoul-
derblndes , nnd not one of us loaned back In
her chair the whole feast through , though
we felt the charm of the effect fully repaid
us for our discomfort , and I'll promise you
necklaces will bo very much worn behind
this winter. MAIIY DEAN. "
Living Fashion Models
Thanksgiving fashions Indicate the Infu
sion of color Into the season's styles , al
though the somber hues are most affected.
The llco's models show the latest and most
approved designs from the dress centois
From Paris comes the elegant model of
the very smartest toque of the season. Thu
Tur Is of otter , soft as down nnd sheeny as
satin , combined with velvet of a heavenly
tone of sllvorv lilac. The design Is the \orj
perfection of simplicity , but is none the less
rich and beautiful as n wlrlc.
The splendidly handsome reception gown
is another model from Paris. It Is of cut
velvet , a regal stuff , and both skirt and
waist are broadly slashed to show the coral
satin beneath. These slashings are filled with
black lace Insertion , applied nt the edges
with steel spangles. At the openings on thu
lower edge of the skirt coral chiffon frills ,
edged with black spangles , show , and the
collar Is a Parisian creation In coral , black
lace and paillettes. A rosette of black tulle
is fastened to the bosom with Jeweled pins.
Gray In all shades of ash , pearl and stone
Is as popular as ever for headvvear. The
charming hat photographed liero Is of vel
vet In a silvery lichen tone with a rather
narrow round brim and heavily shirred nnd
folded crown. Snow white gulls are set
close on either side of a tall velvet bow In
front , and the combination of delicate white
plumage and silver gray Is very beautiful.
What Great Men
Require in a Wife
Wives of great men all remind us that
no genius is ever satisfied with a mate
whoeo talents arc purely domestic , nnd to
hold the affections of a gifted husband a
woman must be something else than merely
a good housekeeper. A dozen points to this
moral may bo cited and none will servo to
clinch the argument more firmly than the
case of Richard Wagner and his first wife.
In his youth the great musician chose a
partner from the stage ; a plump , pretty
and pleasing little person who was thor
oughly devoted to her husband's physical
well-being , who did not hesitate to stand
at the washtub when the author of "Tris
tan" and "Isoldo" couldn't afford a laun
dress , who kept his garret homo In Paris
the pink of cleanliness and contrived meals
for him from the scantiest provisions that
over fell to a cook's lot. As a housekeep
ing wife , of the type St. Paul so highly
recommends , she was near perfection , but
she. could not understand her husband's mu
sical passions and yearnings , nor did she
have much patience with his ever-banging
piano , and after having devoted her youth
and strength uncomplainingly to his service
she found ho bore her no more love than
a man anight feel for a faithful but etupld
servant.
In very painful contrast to this tale of
unrequited service and devotion Is the mat
rimonial relations of Mo/art and his wife.
Poor , overworked gonlus ! He wedded pretty ,
gay Constance Weber , who loved to Ho abed
late , who kept her pink palms smooth as
entln , who thought It no Injustice for her
busy , harassed husband to cook and servo
his meals himself as best ho might and
who spent all the money ho earned on her
frills nnd furbelows. Well , he wedded her
nnd loved her with a reverent , unselfish
ardor nnd emotion that brings tears to your
eyes as you read his otory. Ho thought
her much too fine and dainty to bother with
dirty cooking utensils , ho worshipped her
beauty , arrayed In fine frocks , and ho loft
llttlo , tender missives pinned to her pillow
In the morning when ho sneaked out to
pick up a meal ns best ho might. With
all her selfishness and neglect ho forgave
and loved her because she wa pretty , her
ways were caressing and endearing nnd aho
satlslled his artlstlo temperament In the
way a conscientious , hard-working , faithful
Martha could never have touched or hold
him ,
The same Had story Is true of Andrea
del Sarto , the perfect painter. Ho dis
graced himself for a wife not oven BO
OTTER FUR TOQUE.
worthy as poor Mozart's , while Dante nnd
Mlltui and Coleridge found thu matrimonial
joke too heavy for endurance with wives
who wore capable cooks anil admirable
mothers , but whoso souls were not attuned
to poetry. The great exception to this lulo
Is a no less Important Individual than
Goothe. After long years of bachelorhood
the independent poet took to wife n p.nln
llttlo German girl , a typical Imus frau , to
whom , nevertheless , ho was uncommonly
kind. Balzac , on the other hand , waited
until his career was almost over before he
screwed his courage up to I ho point of mar
rying and then chose a Russian lady whoso
esprit and good looks took his heart by
stoim.
Where great men have married happily
they have chosen wives whceo brains nnd
hearts were equally balanced with domestic
shrewdness. Bismarck , Gladstone , Lord
Salisbury and Oem Paul arc among the sen
sible geniuses who married nt once g od
housekeepers and clever women. Mrs. Kru-
ger , though her husband may bo a million
aire , as his adversaries suggest , knits his
socks , makes his coffee , tucks up her skirt
to aid a llttlo Kaffir girl , her solo maid ser
vant , about the housework and contentedly
wears a sunbonnet or "knpple , " as the
Dutch call It ; but for all that , like the wife
of German William , she knows the political
situation In the countr > her husband gov
erns as well as ho knows It himself. Tanto
Kruger Is Oem Paul's second brain nnd
conscience , nnd In the privacy of the pres
idential mansion has been known to scold
nt his mistakes , suggest his next ma
neuvers , and she detests his enemies and
the English with wholesome vigor.
Madame Thlcrs , like Mrs. Krugor , cared
LATEST RECEPTION G.OWN.
nothing tit all for the gl < rles rf her hus
band's position and wis intliur contemptu
ous of her lofty social poHlllon ns Ilrst lady
of France , hut she thoroughly sympathised
In his luve of power and In his passim fur
saIng. . She economized , set Imped and
screwed to help him add to his fortune , let
ting his guests go hungry ftom his table
in order to save a few pennies and even wont
so far ns to correct him for offering a vlsl.
tor a whole peach when a half one would
servo.
Quito an Ideal combination of domestic tal
ents and true. Intellect Is exemplified In Mrs.
Theodore Roosevelt , who , as a housekeeper ,
hns very few rivals nnd who nt the same
time Is a thoroughly ympnthetlc companion
to her able and busy husband. Mrs. Roosevelt
velt never flndH herself too busy to see that
her husband's favorite rice pudding Is denote
to a turn. Her housemaids arc pinks of
domeotlc precision , nnd her larder always
fortified against the colonel's Impromptu
dinner parties got up by telephone. Indeed
her smllo of confident cordiality never wav
ers when a half dozen unexpected guests
claim her hospitality at the shortest notice ;
but with uniquely varied domestic cnreH she
finds time to keep pace with her husband's
political as well ns social and literary Inter
ests or packs up nt a hint to go junketing
about the country on speech making toura.
By thlfl ready responsiveness she has con
tributed not a llttlo to his success In life ;
nil of which goes to prove that when u great
man does marry wisely and well ho secures
a simply Invnliinblo assistant In helping him
up the ladder of fame.
Annexation.
"Papa , " said the beautiful girl , "did you
know that Harold Is an nnnexntlonlst ? "
"Oh , ho Is , Is ho ? " growled the old man.
"Well , I'll bet that Harold doesn't know any
more about annexation than a cow knows
about gunpowder. "
"Oh , yes , ho does. "
"Whon ho talks about annexation I don't
believe ho oven knows what ho wants to
.annex , " persisted the old man.
" " Indeed " mwcrled the beautiful
"YoH , , ho does ,
tiful girl.
"Well , what Is It ? "
"Mo. "
Naturally , after being thus made thu vic
tim of a confidence game , there was nothing
for the old man to do except to say "Bloss
you , my children. "
Noon and Midnight
Womervlllo Journal.
The small hey sat nt tlio well-spread board
At dinner TnunkSKlvliitf day ,
And every QUO watched with great surprise
While he put good thliiKH away ,
Turkey , and pleo , anil cranberry sauce ,
And nuts , and oranges , toe ,
Ice cream and onions , plum pudding and
cake ,
All Hwlftly vanished from vlow.
The Mnall boy lay In ) IH ! lied that night ,
And Ills dreaiim were weird and wild.
Thu nightmares galloped , and kicked , nnd
roared
Oh , ho was a wretched child !
Anil ho thought , us ho lay , all palo with
fear ,
And watched them Jump and prance :
"I never will cat BO much again ! "
And ho won't till ho gets a chance.