October 20 , 1S09. OMAHA ILLTSTKATKn o
Blandishing Beauty
of Winter Furs
NH\V VOHK. Oct. 27. Furs that actually
h > puotl7o the money from a woman's pocket
In spite of her firm resolves toHhstiuul
their blandishments nro now In the full Hurt
of autumn beauty on all sides. Never liavo
tlie handsome skins been bo expensive as
this year , and nc\er have they been more
beautiful , and the average conscientious
shopper nearly falls a victim of nervous
prostration In her efforts to decide whether
she shall stake all her pin money on a
boa , a shoulder cape or a great , stately , all-
embracing , softly enfolding shawl shaped
wrap.
Furs nro rendered unusually expensive
turned up becomingly about the face and
then a very rich , but comparatively Inex
pensive decoration IH achieved by bordering
a V-shaped collar with two bands of mink
or Alaska sable , running to a pclnt and a
Jgroup of tails up the waist line , or three
ermine straps ninning over Iho arm connect
the back nnd fionts cf a shoulder piece nnd
a big cravat of Palsloy figured panno droops
gracefully from a knot under Iho chin.
Nt-v\ l'ii\-l'leal < -l ( SUIrlH.
In these happy autumn hunting grounds
of theirs , the sh pa , nil enterprising femin
inity Is agape and flutter over the skirts
with box-pleated backs , There Is no ques
tion that this IB a now and very probably a
permanent wrinkle In skirt topography and
for women whoso physical architecture-
such that a certain amount of drapery Is
quite essential , the triple box-pleat , folded
narrowly at the placket and flowing out
wide and gracefully Into Ihe train , Is a boon
and a blessing , As the situation now
stands all the matrons or the women of
stately and ample 'build ' are grlng to adopt
the box-pleat , while the young nnd the
slender sisterhood will enjoy one mote sea
son with Uie closo-lUtlng habit back ,
It la a fact that every gown , be It of
chiffon or the toughest Melton , Hares more
than over nt the feet In front , and to wear a
cloth skirt without strapped trimming Is to
appear almost a genuiatlon behind the mode.
Not nn Inch will bo sparul fiom any train ,
bo It of a walking or a dinner ill ess , anil
on countless cloth milts thiec feet of goods
\\lll spioad on tbo floor bevond the wearer's
heels , This Is certainly to bo regretted and
the wees of the trnln wearer are Increased
ten-fold by the modlatlc law that says all
skirts must drop loose and free upon their
foundations. There U > not one woman In
fifty who can , In lifting her abundant drap
eries , raise both cloth nnd silk petticoat nt
once and it Is a lamentable but very com-
HAT PALU I'UAUL GHAY.
/ ' this year because of exceeding elaboration.
I They are all adorned with brown chiffon
frills or lace covered rovers or cravats of
rich ribbon nnd lace.
Tipped fox , sll\er fox , blue fox and
smoked fox nro the only really smart pelts
for boas , and it requires Just two whole big
foxes to compose a boa that will take prece
dence for smartness. One huge downy beast
with Its head and Us tall and Its Iwo hind
legs attached to its body lies In a broad
callar of comfort about the wearer's neck ,
whllo his mate hangs down before her , his
head under the wearer's chin , his lall brush
ing the l.em of her skirt. Ponderous as this
may sound nnd heavy as It may appear ,
such a boa Is as co/y as lamb's wool and
as light ns ostrich feathers. Comments
equally flattering can bo made In behalf of
the vast shawl-shnped wraps whoso point
In the rear nearly reaches the skirl's train
nnd whoso grealest glory lies In Its wide
rippling rever.
Comely ns any of these fur things are
the shoulder capea that thrifly Paris has
taught our furriers to make up for young
wearere. Seal plush Is used as the founda
tion of most of these ; n high collar Is
mon sight to see the most delicate of Taffeta
foundations trailing iguoinlulously In the
dust.
Ileiivy HiilH.
Now millinery Is ponderous , both In fact
and in app'earanco. The usual receipt for u
smart hat calls for such Ingredients as n
velvet frame with fur binding , a large ,
many-winged bird , ample folds of panne , at
least one fringed Orient satin scarf with a
pair of glittering buckles and ornaments.
All this Is whipped up with a froth of
chiffon and the result Is a revolutionary
toque , a. Charlotte Corday or a Fair Inez
that will tip the scales nt tbreo to five
pounds.
The mission of women , however , Is to
suffer In the cause of beauty and the silver
lining to this cloud of cioddlng plumes and
rolls of velvet Is that hats come off at the
theaters with a sigh of relief from every
woman in the audience. The only genuine
danger lurking In this weighty headgear
Is prematurely thin locks for the woman who
wears her splendid live-pound structure for
too many hours continuously , Asldo from
the styles above referred to , which , after
all , nro merely new titles to the familiar
round toque , the picture shape and the ever
popular Spanish turban , known last spring
ns the Donna Gon/ales , a plain felt , gaily
budlght with embroidery done In colored
silks , bas Just come to town.
During the summer at the country resorts
wo used to see Leghorns nnd chips gar
nished with garlands painted on the straw
and the adaptotltn of the same Idea In
needlework on felt Is alluringly Interesting
A hugo brown felt with a wreath of autumn
leaves so worked on the brim that the
upper and under sides show an equally neat
finish is pretty and most appropriate , espe
cially If the crown Is wound with a roll
of ecru lace and has manufactured wings ,
painted to resemble big butterfly pinions ,
standing up at one side.
Inr < - IN tin * Til III if.
Iaco has scored another triumph and
stands pre-eminent at the head of all the
trimmings for the year , Whole robea of
renaissance , guipure , cluny and Russian
weave are quite as modish as they were six
months ago and tome of the&e heavy laces
are Interwoven with a heavy gold or silver
cord that runs over the lace in a superim
posed design of Its own or is part and par
cel of tlio lace pattern Itself. Which ever
way it Is used no words can say how richly
brilliant Its effect la and the theory nnd
piacticti now obtaining Is to drop n lace
robe , bo It blnck or white , o\er nn undoi-
slln iif" mmibcrrv red nr liino green taffeta
mousic'llne or crepe do chine.
Tlirntor HilrtViiUlw. .
List winter women found that shirt waists
of satin , velvet , brocaded silk or shot tnffotn ,
fastened with jeweled buttons and fnnclfulb
eollnied , looked amazingly well ns theater
waists , nnd not quite satlHllud with the ad
mit.ilile discover ) the shirt ual.-.t makers me
producing the mohl gorgeous llmaler-golng
gatmonts of gold coluiud , green nnd nuto-
mobllo red satin , the body part entirely
ovoilald with the newest laces nnd the nock
ndoincd with n fashionable Stein Ulik ciavat
of filngod satin or laco. This last Is the
Mitrt waist up-to-dato nnd any woman who
wants to make ono for herself must bear
In mind that the lace has Its pattern sewed
on to thu satin body and that the fullucbs
of the sleeve Is gathered Into n close wilst
nnd a cuff falling over the band. A Stein
Ilhk Is n sixteenth conluiy necktie and It
passes once about a high stock collar that
has branching car laps , crosses at the back
of the neck , comes forwaid to the bust and
Is drawn to a loose four-in-hand knot upon
the chest , thcro fastened with a. jeweled
brooch nnd Its ends roach , In uneven lengths ,
near to the waist line.
The belt that goee with this Is a nairow
width of flno mixed jet and steel beads
wrrked In n. close Oieek fiet pattern and
coming to a sharp point in front.
Fiom this point hang king strings of large
and small jet nnd steel beads In a brilliant
fiingi ! that with some women drops H * >
longest threads to the knccb.
MARY DHAN.
Old-Fashioned
Quilts in Vogue
"Yes , my mothci and I have just finished
our ninety-seventh quilt slnco last Novem
ber , " said Miss Jane Sims of Columbia
county , Georgia.
"You see , It began In this way : Oin
farm Is mortgaged , and when my brother ,
who supports my mother and I , was taken
ill In the middle of the cropping season , wo
know wo would have an extra hard time to
make both ends meet. Then to
make matters worse , the drouth came on
and cut the crops off until there was next
to nothing to gather. 13y this time you may
be euro we were worried , and morning , noon
and night I tried to hit on some wny I might
make money.
"My mother has a number of old-
fashioned quilts , many of them made by her
mother and given her on her marriage.
They are beautiful as old-fashioned quilts
go , have all been taken good care of and
never used except on state occasions , nnd ,
therefore , are as good as the day they were
finished , Well , ono morning during our
trouble I cnmo in nnd found my mother on
her knees before- ono of the big chests In
which she keeps her quilts.
" 'Jane , ' she remarked , 'I was thinking
maybe wo might get n fcnv dollars for some
of these quilts. It would be better than
having them packed away doing nobody any
good. '
"In n minute I thought of the people at
the Hou Air hotel , the neonlo from the
north who coino there every winter , and I
knew the hotel was full right then , so I
made up my mind , and in less than half an
hour I had selected two of the prettiest
CHI3AM SATIN BAMCOWN. .
IILACK AND WHIT13 CAPE.
quills , 'a rising sun' and 'a rose hud' pat-
lei n nnd was on my way to the Him Air.
"I sold those qulllH to tbo ( list lady that
lei kcd at them , and when the other ladles
hc.ml I had moio they made up a paity and
drove over to look at them. Wo sold sixteen
all that my mother would pail with. Then
ono of the ladks nsked If wo couldn't make
homo more and gave us an order for live.
AVu received orders for ninety-seven , and as
1 said , wo have just finished them.
"For the patch-woik kind , 'tbo log cabin. '
'tho worm fence , ' 'the hour glass , ' 'tho mal-
Utio cross' and others on that order we rc-
celvn twenly-flvo dollars each , and make
them In any colors wished. Uut for 'the rose
bud , ' 'tho pond Illy , ' 'tho rising sun , ' 'tho
sun llower , ' 'tho watermelon vine , ' nnd otheis
where the pattern has to bo appllqued , wo
charge from forty to fifty dollars , and I as-
biito you they are worth It.
"Of course you know the patterns are cut
out of the various colored calicos nnd np-
pllqucd on a flno white sheet of the desired
S/L | . Then a sheet to match Is stretched on
the quilting frames and over this IH spread
a double layer of cotton bats carded by hand ;
not the kind bought in rolls ; tluiBo uro lee
thick nnd have n eort of hurshness
about them that can never be. disguised.
Well , after the bats , the loji Is laid on ,
tUiutchcd , of couise , nnd the quilting begins.
Of course on a white giotind wo can draw
no lines , so wo have to use our eyes nnd you
may bo sure it takes careful , dainty work.
My mother Is u flue needle * woman and my
work Is really good. It IH , however , Impos
sible for uH to get the beautiful Flench calicos
ices used In the old quilts , so , of course ,
although wu use only the finest calicos and
cambrics wo simply cannot make our new
qullta qulto like thu old. "
Living Fashion Models
Winter sliles nro making their appearance.
Thu fashionable/ woman will find hero nonio
timely suggestions for replenishing her
wardrobe.
The htunnlng felt hat Is of the
very palesl pearl giay , Iho upper portion of
thu bilm faced with inby velvet. The tall
sugar-loaf crown is enciicleil by n broad
whllo satin ilbbon caught In front by a
jeweled buckle Three superb giay ostilch
plumes cml In line picturesque ) IIius about
tbu hat , whilu a glowing knot of itiby velvet
sut under the left slilo gives color near tlio
facu ,
A novelty capo for cunlagu wuar empha
sises the uvor-lncreaslng populailty of black
and uhlto In combination The foundation
IH a rich Ivury-whlto bimgallne , veiled by n
rich meshed chenlllu not , whllo the whole
garment Is edged with ( list a pleated frill
of chiffon glittering with spangli-H. and over
that a iiifllo of net Irlmmod with narrow
whllo satin ribbon. This typo of wrap Is
suitable for all occanlons and hurmouUcs
with every style of toilet.
No more Ideal model of a ball gown for the
winter of lK'J'l-1900 could bo Imagined than
the ono pictured here It shown the present
use of jewels appllqued on net. Thu under
slip Is of cream satin , over which falls silk
net of the HUIIIU 'lone , superbly embroidered
In conventionalised chr > sunthemums wrought
In silver and palu green aluiies nnd spanglis.
A narrow folded band of horteiiHl.i pink vel
vet encircles the waist and a tiny bit of
chiffon nun lacu pioviilo a trimming for the
small Inconspicuous sleovt'a.
"Let the Boys Fight"
Governor Hochcvelt's uddiess to thu Now
York Slalo Ahsembly of Mothers was Iho
fentuio of Wednesday's session of that body
at Albany. Just after the assemblage had
been called to order and a paper read Mm.
Meats , thu president , announced thai Gov
ernor Ho ( we volt was In the lobby of the as
sembly chamber. The delegatis aroao nnd ,
amid great applause nnd 'the ' waving of
handhoi chiefs , Iho govuinor entered ami
wtilkod down the ulslu to the president's
chair. In a fuw words ho was Introduced
by Mrs. Munrs. The governor began his ad
dress by congratulating thu delegates on thu
good work they had done.
"To mnko a successful and wise wife Iho
mother must have common sense. " ho said ,
"She must albo have sulf-iespuct. It she
li.ui that and docs not loco It In lavishing
her affoctlon upon her children she will bo-
coino a true mother. A great deal depends
upon the mothers to hi Ing up good , healthy
children. In the next century grave piob-
leniH will confront this nation , aud It will
bo for the children of today to decide them.
Wo should educalo our girls lo bo womanly
and our boys lo bo manly. They should
have chaiacter , nnd that comes lo them
by the homo liilluences. A boy that , won't
light Is not woith his sail. Ho will be no IIKU
In llfo and Is a coward. TeacJi him lo use
his slicnglh on thu side of ilghlcoUHiicbs ,
Do not punish him If ho lights If ho Is right.
Toaeh him to bu able to take care of himself
and know how to net under all ulrcuniHlun-
ces. Teach the young to have tbo higher
nf lIvliiLm > HULL when Lliev are called
upon at any tlmo lo perform any duly they
will bo ready. As the father of six chlldiun ,
1 havu boinothlng to speak before you ,
though nf course not a mother. ( Uiughtei. )
1 do not think It Is right for the father to
lot thu nlother have all the caio of homo
llfo , with love and nlfcctinn there should bu
common sunso and itttulullon in bringing up
children , Hy Indulgence and wc > ak will pin-
< mtH _ may piucluiHo miserable minutes of
pit iisuro at Uio cost of all their child ] en's
fiiluio life. 1 bellevu In HC'lf-contiol. Lot
thi ) chlldicn luivo Just us good a tlmo an
they pitvslhly can. I liellovo In grown folks
basing a good time , ton ,
" 1 hellcvo the mother , lo bu a slncuiu
mother , must bo moro than u CIIWH between
the head niiiso ami Iho housekeeper. Hhe.
must hawi an Intoiest In outside things ID
keep her own self-respect , and when bhe
lines Hint si'lf-rispect she loses thu uspect
of bur chlldiim Wo know of motlieis , good
and klfid , sacillUlng herself to her children ,
who , through that sacrifice , has sacilllct'd her
power if doing good. I wimdoi If you hnvu
lead Mary i : . Wilklns' 'Jlovilt of
Mother ? ' You should road It , for It con
tains piofound moral logons. Kduc.ito Iho
girl 'to ' bu Jusl as much of a womanly heiolnu
us thu lieiolnes of any of DID roiuanem nf the
Last cc'iitur ) , > e < t huvu her wise , with a well
lialned mind , thoroughly awnku to all that
Is going on In Iho world. In your training
of children lot tbeio boeal with that /eul
must go sanity If jour work Is really going
lo count for good. "
A vote of thanks was extended to the gov
ernor by Uio assembly.