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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 10, 1899)
September 10 , 1S99. OMAHA ILLUSTKATHl ) HUE. Fashion Decrees a Green Autumn NEW YORK , Sept. S. This is going to bo a green autumn , not so far ns vegetation Is concoiiiccl , perhaps , but bujonil n peradventure - venture It is to prove a verdant season in clothes , for In the woolly plaids , the creamy surfaced plain goods and the silks \\liolo chorus of variation on the tone of emerald will bo seen. Kor this complexion of the fashions \\o are directly beholden to the In ternational yacht races and Sir Thomas Upton's Irish boat. With timely cleverness the milliners have Introduced shamrock felts , ttien wo have Erin green camel's hair and the Flfo plaid Is a common vision , \\lth Its deep green and brown stilpes In the shop windows. The felts , It is necessary to mention , that show outsldo the rich feaf green of Ire land's beloved plant , aie faced cci the Inside of their brims \\ltli a green of a pale bage tone , for this is the law of the mode just n o > w as It relates to hats. On a brown , mauve , blue or red felt , whenever ( tie brim turns up , it reveals the facing in one or two tones higher than on the outside and it is evidently the maneuver of the modistes to assail the wide , low-brimmed chapeau on all feathers , or Haunting Its gay \el\ct blos soms , is far and away more chic and covctablo than any embellishment in bird's wings , heads or quills. It Is true that billllunt breasts are necessary , and will be utilized on many of the small velvet tuques , and that they ostensibly once gleamed on the bodies of tropical fowls , but this Is onl. a pretty milliner's flection , since nine-tenth : ; of the most costly and beautiful breasts aie grown In the American bainyard and owe their glowing metallic tones to the artful d > o pot. Some weeks ano It was made very evi dent that more silk would bo worn In the autumn season , and consequently Into the winter , than ever before , and it was als i suggested that the application of cloth In stitched straps and bindings on the silk would bo another noticeable feature. The wlslied-'for has come true and In the black goods departments of the shops they ate selling the new street silk , soft as falllo fraancais , but with a surface like peau d. > sole , and Ha name Is travelers' joy , for , like the shoes worn In the desert by the childicn of Israel , it is guaranteed never to wear out. Not only will It bo used for walking SHORT-SLEEVED NIGHT DRESS. sides and accomplish their ends by divers subtle schemes. This light brim facing is one , and another plan , actuated doubtless Jiy true Christian charity , Is that of making the small , llaring liats bo extremely pretty that the big , wldo-roofcd ones will stand no chance at all In the sales of popularity. The great claim for charm In the now hat is made through its lingo velvet petaled ( lowers that are so much moro becoming than anything have ostrich plumes. The making of these French loses , peonies , althcas , lotus , etc. , has been carried to the highest artistic point , and a career of startling color coinblimtluis In felt bhapes and velvet ( lowers has been untoied upon by every ono of the loading mllllneiH. Kor example , a shamrock green felt supporting two enormous periwinkle blue velvet blcs wmis with black silk heails and a waft of black algretto between them , is sened up us the ultimatum of modish expression , and , surprising as this sounds , any veracious color-loving eyewitnesses can attest to the charm of this bit of headgear , OHIIITJN thu Only Vli'lliun to KiiHlilon. k Another nma/lng device , still well within the hounds of the aesthetic limits , Is a dead black velvet felt , Us binall low crown tending to a pudding shape , Its. two-Inch wide brim deeply fluted and rolling up on one side to show an Inner bkln of the deop- < -st damson purple , while jocrched agalnat The crown to ono side is a big snow-white and very conventionalized velvet hyblscus , out of the heart of which flows a mi\ed black and white aigrette. It Is a pleasure to record that , saving tup unlucky cfoprey , no feathered creatures lire * 1iow called upon to ylpld up their lives to fomlnlno vanity , for a hat embowered In particularly long , rlchljvcurllng ostrich uud shopping and railway dresses , and ele gantly set elf by stitched broadcloth and melton bands , but It can bu justly utilUcd for ceremonious occasions and umbellished with the heaviest bilk filnge. Hero and now it is necessary to take fringe very seriously , because it Is ono of the forces of fashion wo have soon to reckon with. Krii.go and cord are bound to play thu part long successfully enacted by biaid , and no of the most attiactlvo autumnal maul festatlons wail recently made by a French model for a carriage or calling gown. Hlack velvet , with largo and small smooth black silk dots showing In the depths of Its pile , formed the trained en forme flounce that al ways falls In limp luxuriance below every long tunic overdress. Very llttlo indeed of the velvet did show , for the tight overskirt - skirt came neatly to the feet , and that was of silk cropon , Its surface deeply corru gated. The length of this top skill was In creased by ( i four-Inch deep fall of Erin green fringe , tassel fringe pendant from a knotted web. On the walbt this fringe , in varying depths , bordered the rovers , served an epaulette's duty on the sh ulilurs , feath ered the edge of the collar and was followed everywhere by a finishing edge of round green silk < ord. It does not require very deep search to find fringe , of ono typo or another , of the floss , braided , sowing silk or feather variety , doing Its beautifying work on the cloth crepe do chine , and even the ball gowns. It Is to bo bewailed that bowknote of rib bon , as adjunct * to skirt decoration , are securing a sort of estimation among well dressed women , for satin bows , fastened aimlessly hero or there on a skirt , are In aa anomalous a position aa cups and saucers and dinner platen strewn on a wall , A bow on a iklrt line no defense ngalnst the bruises and crushlngs It Is bound to roelvo , and It grows shaky and shabby while fulfilling no olllco that another species of ornament could not much more ably and tidily occupy. However , wo do find the bows cropping up everywhere , and It Is the duty of a fashion chronicler to report their existence , Just AS It Is obligatory to register the prevalence of a taste for draping plain cloth tunics over underdresses of spotted velvet and for orna menting skirts by buttoning up the tunics , from hem to hip , with tabs and gay buttons. Doth of these last are good fashions , that dofiotvo all the following they get , and It is also well worth reporting that many dressmakers - makers aiu folding one lapel over anothei on the dress waists , and that the smart now neckties are worn knotted about every pos sible type of collar. Kor example , If a ill ess Is finished with n high choker collar of wired Ince upon colored silk , Its owuor puts twlco round the base of this a long scarf of the thinnest crepe do chine , pulls It In a four-ln- hand knot In front and lets the ends , deeply- fringed and very possibly embroidered , pro trude at the waist line below the fronts of her short coat. Just In a trice women have taken a fancy to the neckties with embroi dered ends , and with their silk and light zephyr shirt waists are wearing Ardely ties of whlto or colored silk , with a group of llour-do-lls , a coronet and plumes , or a nondescript coat of arms needleworked In vivid colors on the ( lowing ends. This is only n llttlo freak of the season. but It chimes In nicely with the autumn showing of shirt waista that , In either silk or flannel , mo spattered o'er with embroi dered emblems. Sometimes lily a black bilk polka dot sulllces on a rich slime green llan- nel waist , or it is a shamrock on a whlto silk surface , or tiny ostiich feathers In damson red on a mauve ground. MARY DEAN. Living Fashion Models In this week's photographic fashion borviio will be found sevenil plates of special timeliness that should bo nt- tiactive to The Uee's woman leaders. The decollete short-sleeved night dress bus evidently become an impoitant item in the lingeile of the modem woman. Not one , but a dozen new models have been biought forward this season. Women have accepted them as being highly becoming , cool for high tempenituro and imoro com- fortabi'o than the old night gown when the dieting back was used. The 0110 illustrated here is made of thu llnest English long cloth , cut square neck back and front , with mlllo edged yoke and full frills forming the bleeves ; Valenciennes lace both edging and insertion , with knots of white satin nl'bon , gives an air of extieme elegance to this llttlo garment. As white wirl be worn to an extent more than before known this coming winter , many afteinoon house die&ses aio being made of veiling , albatrcss cloth , wool dopes , delaines , etc. , of a creamy tint. The model offered In the picture Is of a thin whlto woil , trimmed with many narrow rullles , each ono edged with Hoitonsla red silk baby ribbon * The belt , collar , sash and shoulder simps aie of bilk to conespond and the gimp Is i.t hard tucked lawn and embroidery. The black vei'vot hat Is a model of chic .simplicity in autiwnn millinery. It shows the crushed , drooping brim , flaring and tilted crown , with sharp rise on the loft hldo that is characteristic of many now shapes. Its style Is admirable In giving an appoaiancu of rlchncbs with but very slight trimming. Ono thick , curled ostrich plume , a brilliant jet buckfo and bo us of black Batin ribban complete its decoration. Fortunes in Chinaware The Itotlibchllds , the queen and Loid Dudley own between them most of the finest Sc-vies waio In England. The most famous of Loid Dudley's Sevres is a garnlturo do chcmlnec , for whlcli no gave $50,000 , and It Is said that a housemaid broke ono of the pieces the day after Hu anlvnl at Dudley House. Lord Dudley a few years ago had a Halo of some of his porcelains. The collection of Pompadour and Dtilmrry Sevres , as It Is bomotlmes styled , In thu possession of Queen Victoria him been val ued by experts at much over n quarter of a million dollars. And yet there are only a small number of pieces ; these are displayed nt Windsor castle , in the long gallery , whom her majesty usually receives hoi guehtb before dinner. Ono and one-half million dollars Is said to bo the value of the queen's porcelain. The Miluo of old Sevres porcelain Is enhanced by the fact that ever since the foundation of the factory an exact register I'tit , been kept of all oak * ) . Probably the most dxtenslvo sale over made was that In 17TS , to the Empress Catharine of Hiihsln. who paid for a service of 751 pieces a mini of $80,000 , which Is equivalent to about J200.000 at the present day. Ono hundred and nlxty pieces of this service wore stolen c'uring a conflagration ut the palace and found their way to England , where they woio purchahed by the famous collector , Hecktord. Hut with few exceptions they worn repurchased by the Emperor Nlcholns and conveyed back to Hiihsla just befoio * ho outbreak of the Crimean war. Prices that/ appear absolutely preposterous are given for Sevres china of the "Pompa dour period , " which dates from 1703 to 1763 , for that of the "Louis XII period , " which dates from 1703 to 1780 , and for that of the "Louts XVI epoch , " dating from 1780 to 1730. It Is nothing $600 or { 1,000 apiece for a Sevres cup and saucer , or a small pall or a WHITE WOOL DRESS FOR AUTUMN. DL plate that Is , nothing to a Rothschild or a royalty. ( . 'iilleutloiiN In Thin Country. The Ilncvst collection of Seviea In America belonged to Governor Lyon of Idaho ; It was bold at his death and one va.se was pur chased by Mrs. Ayics of Now Yoik for Jii.OOO. A New York woman , Mm. Arthur M. Dodge , has some Sovros plates similar to the famous Chateau plates nt Kontninuhlcaii. She has also t > omo delightful examples of thu old English ware Spode , which was only made at first for royal and ducal families , and was a great luxury. Cabb.igo rtses la a favorlto pattern of the Spoilo ware , or some , "bet" pattern of deep blue Mrs. Dodge has a teto-a-teto tea service of Spodo deco rated with the cabbage roses She has Homo Nyon cups and saucers Ibis waio Is maiked with a fish , because the factory Is situated on Lake Geneva. Mis. Alfied Duane IVII Is a collector of line china , and seveial specimen1 * of St. Petersburg ware are tieasured by her. This Is the only Euiopoan factory which never bells a piece of china , as everything manufactured is reserved by the c/.ar and c/arlna for royal pienenls. It was founded by the Eiinpress Catharine. Some of Mrs. Pell's Russian poicclnln Is of a late date , notably a plat'j made in 1881. Other treasures nio copies of the pilncu of Wales' Million service , In use on his loyal yacht Osborne. They bear naval designs and the three feathers and motto. Mis. Pell also hn copies , In Mlnton , of Queen Victoria's Buckingham pnlaco service. The decora tions are the rose , shamrock and thlstro , a crown and the Initials V. It. , within a wreath of roses. Many multl-iiiiUloimlni ; pil/o Mlnton / I. Vf- mm L jf % g . . l f at * ? ' r * m \ HLACK VELVET HAT. ware to the extent of paying $ -,7-ii apluco for platen. A phito of plain gold coats Just about as muih. Kor $ iiG.IiO : one can buy a ciown derby plate which will niiHwci everyday puipotes. Mis. Hiadloy Martin eats her Monday dinners fiom plates costing Homowhoio about $17.r > each , of couiso Him has hotter porcelain than this , Indeed shu POBJCSSOH a laigo cabinet of china of gieal historical varuu. MIH. Pleiponl Mm gun's ehulco Is for Chlne.-e potcclnlns , which aiu nut to bo com- paied with any others , so beautiful are they , bo their admlicrs claim. They aie as thin an paper , an hillllant im a minor and M ycnoiotis as motal. Mrs. Moigan has many examples of that most popular of patterns the ono we all' can talk glibly about the willow palletn. This Is on what IH called Tinner's Caughloy poicelaln. Thu loiunntic stoiya \ always a favoiltu of the ctuol father who lived In a pagoda , the armed knight , 4hu maiden fair , an elopement , a stern parent In pursuit and finally pea o , plenty ami happy days under a blue tree on thu other wldo of the plate "Royal" was bestowed upon the Worcester pmeulalim when Queen Charlotte on her visit to the factory , with ( Jeorgo III , ordered a service ; the pattern , by tlio way , for tliN pattlcular service wim a Ilfy. Mrs. William Awlor's favoiito poicolalna \ Worcester wnio. Apropos of the ( erniH porcelain and china. The latter IH only "shopping" English and when you becoino a collector and can talk Intelligently on the subject , you foiswear china and nay poieolaln al together inn ) air the tlino ; It Is moru artistic and aesthetic , Tli While lliiMNi * China. Of Dresden ware Mn. Joseph Drexel has a line collection , Including ninny Hpeclmons of thu Marcollnl period about 1730. Choco- Intu pots of different shapes nro among the choice bits of the collection , MIH. Lnvl P. .Motion in said to luivo one of the most expensive dinner services nf Dresden In tliln country. Hosc'H and forget-iiie-notH are the usual Dresden patterns The mark IH two crossed swords In blue. Then * aie but four places In the world where onu can bo perfectly safe from de ception In buying Dresden porcelain ; thesr are the sulo room connected with the factory , the royal pi n el tin i i > nln in I e | n'e ' and in Dresden , and a small shop also In Dresden , which Is permitted to keep defectlvo speci mens for sale. Oncu a year there Is an auction aomowliero In Saxony , where defective - tivo specimens "schtiltcan bo procured - cured , in all IIvo places where you are sure of what you are purchasing. In regard to the White- House china , that ordered by Mrs. Hayes In 1879 was the most elaborate and expensive , costing flfi.OOO , which was paid by the government. A few duplicate sots were made of this china , During Lincoln's time two sotu of china werr made for the Whlto House. Slxty-ono pieces of ono HTvK'e now belong to Mrs Dicklns Pieces of both sets have buon scattnred among public and private collections throughout this country and In Europe.