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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 20, 1899)
I August 20 , 1809. OMAHA ILLUSTKAT13D H13JSJ. u Striking Features of Autumn Styles NEW YORK , Aug. 18. In eleven days , by all well-regulated calendars , the autumn season \\111 bo officially Instollcd. Though qulto Informally , and none the > less practi cally , this season , so far as It relates to clothes , was fully Inaugurated two weeks ago ; that Is to say , the active manufacture of fall raiment began. It began , as every new cycle of dress opens , with activity In millinery. In Paris the whole architecture of headgear , aso have known It for the lest eight months , has been ruthlessly do- for even the richest woman , but narrow straps of black velvet or lace pass under the chin and at their Juncture under the right car a big knot of black tulle Is pinned. Perhaps the heartiest word that can bo said In recommendation of the llttlo half- velvet , half-straw woven dlrectolro Is that It carries slight trimming and Is not , there fore , necessarily a costly affair. It requires an exquisite touch to balance one at the proper angle on the head and then to make It fast to the hair ; afterwards It needs the NEWEST IN PETTICOATS. mcllshed , and excepting the dlrectolre bon- noc , that promises , with Its flaring brim , to see us through another winter , flat , close- fitting hats are to bo the standard of smart ness. All through the mid-season , before * feathers and heavy felts seem necessary or attractive , a corps of pretty little shapes and styles \\Ul be marshaled forth most successfully. First among the nice early things are the round frames woven In bright brown , pew s' , dor blue and sharp black and white , of vel vet , ribbon and straw. There is , of course , a light , strong reinforcement of silk- wrapped who used to hold the crown and brim flrm , and It a woman wishes to make a graceful , easy and yet not extravagant passage from her sadly batteied and sun burned straws and leghorns to .something . that stands betwixt seasons , she can't do \bettor than with the above mentioned. A crepe do chine scarf having fringed ends and an argus quill is the decoration for these runabouts , as they are so suitably christened. Tiiircla Hutu. Yet another specimen of 'tween season hat { a any one of the pretty shapes constructed wholly of ellk. Now and then during the spring , toques and smallish hats of flowered taffeta , ornamented with no end of tulle and tufts of roses , were noticed at gatherings of truly modish women , and it seemed qulto natural that these attractive novelties shou.'d develop into a tribe of chapeaux of no slight Importance. The obvious result Is accom plished and a hat of tufted or rucked taffeta mounted os a turban or ahady shape on a concealed wire structure Is one of the tempt ing Investments that pay dividends of long wear and exceeding becomlngness. Very pretty onea seen have crowns of smoothly Tald silk and brims done In tucks that are PO narrow they stand up like line cords ; others have plain brims and low ehlrred crowns , and the trimming Is done in russet leaves or wings and bows of wired ecru lace , their edges all bound with a quarter-Inch t ldo rim of silk of the same sort DH that composing the hat. Either -with or without strings the above bo used , but the dlrectolre without tuUo ings seems as much of an eccentricity as Modern eklrt minus a train. AB a matter act the strings are not themselves of elnco that material la too perishable very most urtfut maneuvering to prevent the up-flaring rim from falling over one's nose or dropping down to the nape of one's neck and a woman who wears a dlrectolro must bo prepared to do without her veil. The Orthodox Color. Gray has now become the accepted ortho dox mainstay of yo well habited female dur ing the entro act of the comedy of clothes. On a cloud of cray wo drifted from the woolens and furs of March to artificial flowers and muslins of May , and now In cloth and silk thread wools , wool crepes and cashmeres , wo all. In divers tones of gray , are moving on toward the heavier , darker costumes of November. The most clorlous garments to be worn to autumn weddings are already designed In gray crepe do chine Garnished with gray pearl cm- broidery , and with such a gown a very flat- topped turban of gray silk , wound with a scarf of pearl-bedewed white chiffon , Is the smart and proper thing. No note of color Is thought well of In connection with these very neutral harmonics and for all stately affairs It Is tnterestinc to learn that trains will bo even longer than wo have ever before worn them. The II IK Sur-prlMC. The one big surprise and gift that an In vestigation proves September baa In store for ua Is the tnlloi'-mado suit of rich black silk. It has been some five years now since a costume wholly of this goods was in fash ion , but to have a sumptuously braided black faille , nrmuro or bengallno tailor suit Is as near the acme of timely taste as any woman can come. No special gifts of prophecy are needed for the eafo assertion that not scoies , but hundreds of these suits will bo ordered for winter wear , since the honorable service to bo extracted from such a costume will bean an Irrcslstablo temptation to the woman of moderate Income , as well as the one who enjoys ample means , It la true , the tailors hardly take kindly to the Idea , for the handsomer a llk Is the more dllllcult It Is to mould on tailor linen , and therefore the more mechanical side of uch a costume promises a big expense. All this -taken - Into consideration the women will undoubtedly order them plentifully , and gar nished on the collars , sleeves , lapels and waistcoats with heavy black silk lace and then reinforcing It with a skeleton overlay oi nanow black silk braid stitched down. In ordering a tailor suit for the autumn , whether It Is to bo of silk , tweed , melton or camels' hair , bo sure to demand the nbovo mentioned trimming In places where relict from severe lines Is needed , fir It Is the nowcst and most richly ofTectlvo method of decoration that the tailors Know. Tin * ncoiiiinilcn If tliero Is just a modest sum to bo laid out on mld-seaeun refreshment of a wardrobe a wish shopper .will . put the largest share of her fund In neck decorations. The soberest old gown gets a new lease on style and freshness by the addition of a smartly be coming jab-t or collar and a woman's claims to modlsluncss are based as much on what she wears about her neck as on her head , To a gown of light summery character maybe bo gl\en a restoring touch with an Immensely tall close collar mrulo entirely of lace bead ing , threaded with black velvet bebo ribbon , the cnt'e of which all knot behind In a fringe of ends and loops. Of course Uio lace Is mounted en crinoline silk , but just as smart as this Is a wide strap of velvet , well stif fened , folded about the neck , fastened In front 'with a narrow , jeweled elide and fin ished by n sharply-pointed tongue of velvet extending a trlllc beyond the slide. Hardly too many variations can bo played with a scarf of whlto lace wound twice about the neck , caught at the bust by a buckle of bright jewels , and again at the waist In the same manner , whcuco feather out three inches of end. Even more useful than these are crepe do chlno scarfs in the liveliest tints of chatreuso green , edged with an appllquo wreath of yellow Irish lace and knotted , not under the chin , but an almost absurdly big bow under the right car , leaving the long ends to watt out In the brepzo ever the shoulder. No Incroyable ever wore his col lar higher or tighter than do the women now , and with some of the afternoon toilets It appears at Newport to bo the fashion to wear wire-stiffened collars of white lace , through the chinks of which not only shows the wearer's long , white neck , but also a twinkling band of diamonds. To carry such jewels by day outside the collar would bo regarded as a oad breach of good taste , while under a transparent veil of lace covering neck and shoulders the richest gems are worn with iwcnderful satisfaction. MAUY DEAN. Early Autumn Weddings The charm of a country wedding is being felt more and more by the fashionable wtrid and there is llttlo doubt but that the greater number of those that have nlaces out of town prefer to celebrate tholr nuptials there. In the country there seems to be more of the soirlt of romance and good fellowship. There Is a chance for every one to thoroughly enjoy himself. No matter with what sol emnity and stillness the vows are spoken In the church , the breakfast at the house is in variably followed by frolic on the lawn and verandas , and in it the bride not unfre- quently joins. Lately , at a prominent wedding at Stam ford , Conn. , the breakfast was served on the lawn , under the trees and by the lako. The 'bride ' , just before leaving her guests , and still in her shimmering whlto guwn , was surrounded by her bridesmaids. By one of them she was blindfolded and they then danced around In a ring as she threw her bouquet. Within its center was hidden a ring , and the girl who caught the flowers was said to be predestined by fate to be the next bride. The custom Is a German one , but loses nothing by crossing the great sea , and Is unusually pretty when practiced amid such gay surroundings. Many brides now choose to drive on with the groom for their honeymoon In a small open trap , drawn by some pet horse of their SILK HOUSE WAIST own , Instead of shutting thombolvos up In the formidable coach of not so very long ago. Surely this IB , starting life's Journey more pleasantly ! One gay young brldo was re cently heard to say that nothing would Induce - duce her not to go with her pony to the station on her wedding day. That she would , at least , have the consciousness ol holding the reins at the beginning , In this Instance there was also a tlngo of the pa thetic about this llttlo Journey , as the man she had chosen "was not a Croesus , and after- BLACK LACE MANTLE. ward the pony was to bo sold. It was , therefore , her last drive with him. A number of llttlo novelties have lately apeared at the breakfasts and they greatly help out the fun. On the sideboard , or In the hall , tliero are piled up Innumerable llttlo whlto satin bags. They are shaped like meal bags and contain a handful of rice. Each guest takes one with the wedding cake and he Is therefore prepared to contribute hla share to the veritable shower of rice that falls upon the departing pair. Some special g od fortune is said to hang ever the thrower If the rlco from his hand actually alights upon the brldo. Dainty whlto satin slippers filled with rlco and queer llttlo shoes are among the table decorations and favors. At Tuxedo , not long ago , a beautiful girl was married on the veranda. It had truly been transformed Into a bower by the use of smllax and palms and the entire festivity was out of doors. When she and the groom drove off the band played "Just One Girl , " and the chorus was heartily joined In by almost every voice present. Living Fashion Pictures In no one feature of dress has them .teen more radical changes of lalp tnan In the pat- tlcoats designed to give style to the popular shape of skirt. Old-fashbned cuts fall to Im part the extreme slenJsrnpjs of hip , accentu ated height and smart crlspness at the foot exemplified In the above model , which Is an Importation from Paris. The mateiial Is a rich lustrous silk of Chartreuse srton , Is trimmed at the edge of the knlfo-plentcd frill , also In graceful arabesques on the wide bias flounce with tea-tinted lace of a heavy and effective quality. The flounce 1'ius dec orated Is rather narrow In front and widens sharply at the back to glvo all required full ness to the outside skirt. The garment is superb and nil of the daintiest handwork. The superb black Jaco mantle that com pletely envelops the flguro Is one of the vsry handsomest garments seen at the Newport Casino this month. On : i yoke of Klondike yellow silk , black net , richly embroidered In Jet flowers and bordered with Chantllly lace is hung to fall In ample folds that just es cape the floor. Five full frills of Ivory whlto lace line the wrap and enhance Its luxurious appearance when allowed to fall 1ml ! off of th < } shoulders. The Chantllly hangs In etolo ends In front and wide satin ribbons ton- line a high collar made to frame the face becomingly , The continued favor of black and wiilto as a trimming for gowns of every an-I any color Is exemplified anew In the view of n now silk house bodlco recently completed for wear next autumn. The glacier blue llborty-satln of whln the wulst Is inado falls away low on either shoulder to show a charmingly pmty under l-oJIco of corded white satin having narrow bands of lace ap- pllqued between each cord. The collar cor responds with the Inner waiit , A handsome lace edgu borders the deep double ravers , and above It Is a Crook pattern worked out In inch-wide s.itln ribbon overlaid with llu narrowest black velvet. The Comfort Jar An Atlantic voyage was made very homo- llko by the unique and sensible "bon voy age" gift of a friend. For the usual basket of flowers and fruits , which Is finished at the end of a tow days , there was substi tuted a small green-tinted glass Jar , with tight-fitting cover , such as are used for compotes or scaled fruits. Into this jar a number of small cheese cloth sacks had "been packed , each one of which hold about two teaspoonsful of tea. The sacks were some two Inches square. The cloths had been rinsed through water , BO that It was free from lint and odor of the loom. On the outside of the jar was pasted a label of whlto paper , on which was 'written In bold script capitals , deeply shaded , these lines : Though skies bo changed mid all la new , Kach day your ship pursues Its way ; A cup of kindness cheers your heart ! The acrostic of the Initial letters Is evi dent. So the hour of afternoon tea was given Its gracious Influence. Down In the ship's cabin , the hissing urn was Impossible ; the conventional teapot lacking , but tliu circle that gathered about the table with the pitcher of boiling water oft replenished , and the teacups In readiness , regarded each day with now gratlludo the "llttlo green Jar. " The tiny sack was hold In the lingers by the corner In the cup of hot water until the. proper strength was given and then passed to the second cup. There was no debris of loaves to embarrass. When the service was finished It was thought that this Idea has Its value equally In journeys by rail , bicycle , automobile.orl orl In the hunter's store of the mountain camp. An Oddity in Railroading "Tho craze for fast tltno on railways Is taking a now feature , " observed a promi nent railroad official to a Washington Star writer recently. "Ita \ the shortening of lines and reconstruction of mirvoya In order to make a given line as straight as pooslblo between two points , It Is , In fact , a echorne to make time by saving distance , A rail way without a curve or a cutting is , of couiao/ splendid thing from an engineer ing standpoint , but It Is a very tedious affair to the pateongor. To thoroughly realize how extremely monotonous for a long Journey on a railway without a curve or a cutting Is , ono must travel on the road from Iluonos lAyres to the Andes. That railway boats all known records for having over two hundred miles of track almost on a line , such as mathematicians describe aa the shortest distance between any two points. No ono who has not seen tills remarkable stretch of road , straight In front and be hind as far as the eye can reach , oven when aided by a field glam , can grasp what it moans or what an amount of wearlaomo monotony it Involves and entalli. "
