AnuMist 0 , 18 ! ) ! ) . OTtLAHA 1 L LUST K AT 131) 111313.
m The Water Lily
LilyHat
Hat for August
NEW YOIIK , Aug. 4. Surely Iho heat of
the summer season has a most expansive
cITcct on the spirit tlmt rules the destinies
of the feminine wardrobe. Hero we are
enjoying not only torrid weatlier , but at all
the summer centers of dress the most In-
torcstlng revelations In purple and line
twined linen. For Instance , wo seem
suddenly to have arrived at tlio point wlieie
combinations , many of them daring and
beautiful , are the rule cf the hour. For
merly when lovely woman made her muslin
or foulard bow , It was In cooi' , unbroken , un-
jarrlng notes of lilac , If mauve waa her
motif , and there Is no contradicting the
artistic truth that few complexions can
stand the nearness of more than two colors
at a time.
Sluirii ContriiNtM.
Now , alas , all the best artistic traditions
are being set at naught and the very most
fashionable 'thing ' to wear , to an afternoon
picnic , for driving or calling , Is a
deep white pique skirt elegantly garnished
with white- needlework ; with this a waist of
embroidered white s\\lss muslin drawn over
nn underwalst of sharp cerise silk and above
this a cream straw , piled with thick tufts
of heliotrope and tied under the chin by
black velvet strings. Burnt bread-colored
gloves and a Fllk parasol , "yellow as rlpo
corn , " bring up the two ends of the proces
sion Vtlth a fine flare of color.
With such an arrangement ouo sees
- vj alternated the Idea of a skirt of organdie
or flno barege In one color , deeply flounced
with a goods In the very strongest tone of
contrast possible. Sometimes , as will hap
pen , however , with the most lU-judgcd
fashion flat , a pretty costume results and
saves the day.
Now , nothing seen this year has so at
tracted the eye as the dress of light opcn-
meshed summer cloth that Is to say , voile
cropon , wool crepe do chine or wool and
silk grenadine , with a knee-deep flounce of
black spotted net. A gown of this architecture
tecture- has Its skirt cut sheath-like to the
knee , and there Its edges are shaped In Ir
regular scallops , finished with a few closj
set frills of black net , thence well out to
the floor , and In a smart train behind , the
very full sun-pleated valance of black spot
ted net swirls In an airy , dusky cloud about
the feet. The edge of great flounce is gar
nished with Infantile frills of Itself and the
spots en the fllmy stuff are either Llg , loosely
caught silk knots or winks of brilliant jet.
Hlch velvet volls , peony red foulards or rush
green grenadines accord most handsomely
with the novel flounces and the black net
recurs again and again on the waists of
these costumes.
Cloned UN by
All sorts of wonders have been achieved
by the dressmakers in closing the waists of
gowns. So intricate and inexplicable are
some of the ways and means now uss.l for
hooking or buttoning a woman Into her
dress waists that even to shrewd feminine
eyes the tendency Is strong toward the sus
picion that by enchantment , not mere human
means , Is the wearer got into her elaborate
frock. By cleverly concealed appliances the
waist will too hooked up in as many as five
different places in order to give tops and
points and tufts ot lace easy
play and permit the maker of the costume
to shape the body as her almost eerie fancy
dictates.
The pretty crystal button came very near
being killed by kindness early In its season
of popularity and a staggering blow to Its
useful bev was airuck by th misappro
priation oi . 'to ' heavy winter coats and
huge belt and hat ornaments. Now the
Parisian modlhtes have taken the glass but
ton once more Into favor and arcusinn It
FOR EARLY AUTUMN.
( on some mid-season tollols and In early
autumn i suggestions as edging to over
dresses < and coats of cloth. To Illustrate ! , n
very Intcrcstlnij whlto sloth yachting gown
had its skirt split up the front to show n
striped ' petticoat and Us coat oncn in a
bolero curve upon a pliusing silk skin
The rounded fronts of the coat and the skirt
drapery were stilly braided and then edged
with pale creen crystal balls pierced to re
ceive the silk twist that held them In place.
It Is truo. these buttons were very small ,
but crystal they were , and a most artful
touch on the little sea-going suit.
A AVIIrt Flower Mania.
A wild mania for the Held flower-crowned
hat seems to have touched every woman's
Intellect. Straw hat frames and artificial
flowers are chief among the bargains offered
and the woman who can't make nn Invsst-
ment in field flowers , falling becomingly
about a cheap rush straw or marked down
leghorn had better hldo her shame under a
calico sunbonnct. Naturally these Inexpen
sive and rather fragile examples of millinery
are meant only for country use , and for wear
with whlto pique , organdies , etc. The straw
frame Is usually bought with a halo brim ,
three and a half to four and five inches
wide , and the decision seems to bo Invaria
bly In favor of binding the brim's edge nar
rowly with black velvet. A full knot of vel
vet Is set somewhere under the bilm in or
der that it may Ho against the hair and then
quite pell-mell the ( lowers are twined round
the crown. Black-eyed Susans , corn-flowers
and marsh "rue Is a favorite combination
with rloo Grasses.
A strong following goes with the water Illy
hat , where the full-brown ( lowers are massed
11 a thick coronet , completely encircling the
crown to mnko It look high and masnvo and
no leaning toward the sloppily picturesque
allowed. Strings , or the very gayeit imita
tion jeweled hatpins , fasten these flotal
treasures in ptacc , and the cnly foreign ac
companiment 'to the bloEsoiPs allowed Is a
big bow of black velvet or tulle ,
I'liHMliiK of | ] ic > Inee down ,
Think first and think hard , when you see
a bargain In lace , that Is not edging , offered.
This Is necessary , because It is oj very
dublouH question whether women next winter
are going to wear the lilmy needlework to
any extent , and n la.-e jacket or all-over
tare costume still coats enough to necessitate
a justification of Pong , haid wear. Ho-
qulescat can bo safely , oven now , pronounced
over the net gown Jetted In figures and
spangled In arabesques , because n warning
has como that richly figured gronadlii-js In
divers tones will surely take posscesto t of all
well regulated wardrobes next wlnior. Al
ready some of these grenadines 'n wh'te '
have been worn by the always early In
fashion's fields , nt Newport. These white
vlslcns are wondrously sploshed and molred
SUMMER HOUSE GOWN.
In gold and silver , and by some Ign ivant ad
mirers set down as cloth cf god. But that
is not anywhere near the facts , for by tome
art of the French weavers gold and sliver
colored silk is wrought through the web-like
nicshe.t ot whlto and the rich gleams are
brought out in Iho high lights.
Over in Paris , as well as In smartly
dressed American society , the hair brooch
has been creeeed off the list of fashionable
toilet etceteras , and the most luxurious nc > v
sunshades are of riffked chiffon , white en
thin whlto silk foundations. The handles
are of pale yellow natural wend , with hook
ends , and the edging of the parasol Is done
with a thick ruche of chipped white tulle , or
mere regally wtlll , with. Ilufllly full white
ostrich feathers.
Something more In the purchasing line
of the average woman is the exceedingly
tiny belt buckle of brilliants that Is wirn
In preference to any other type. A buckle
nn Inch long is the proper sl/o for suinnwr
gowns , and it must carry a three-Inch wide ,
very soft while satin ribbon. Tlio brilliants
of the buckle are sunk In a trough of whlto
metal to give them the look cf the antique
BGttlnti , and anything llko a largo , gaudy
belt ornament Is considered In the poorest
possible taste. MARY DEAN.
Living Fashion Pictures
Hot weather gowns leave the dressmakers
a freedom In design and material of which
they are this year taking fullest advantage
The novelties of the season are therefore
particularly striking and attractive.
This excessively smart street , driving or
walking toilet for late summer wear , shown
In our plates , Is a creation of Paris , The
stuff Is a very light weight , but satin-finished
black lady's cloth , and the skirt's decora
tion gives a clear Idea of a new style of
trimming that will bo much In vogue next
autumn. Six Inches around the bottom and
in five scalloped folds an extremely fine
black and white checked wool Is set In , each
fold bound with a narrow black c i i The
bodice or basque Is cut with an oxal spade
front , Is yoked , partially double-breasted ,
and the scalloped cfloct of the fikltt Is ro-
luxated on the waist , save that lioro the
cording is white. Both collar , sleeves and
eulT on this costume gives valuable hints
for some of next season's fashions , u will
be. observed that a snow-white , high , narrow-
clowned sailor hat Is worn. It seems that
they will bo considered correct \\rar until
very late in the fall.
Hero also Is a superb house toilet , sulta-
bio for any tlmo ot the year , that Is a suc
cessful creation of n leading New York
Infuse. The material Is n brilliant \ . irlillscent
Persian chiffon , of the softest , rlclimt color-
Ing. The whole dress Is appllquodor . with
black thread lace in graceful cotucntlon-
allzcd llower-llko figures , the lace in turn
being outlined with rucked baby \ehot rib
bon the shade of Parma vlolots. There Is a
V from throat to the point of the bust of
heavy cut whlto loco over satin , a white
satin belt and very long , sllghth shirred
sleeves. As will bo noted , the sKirt'trails
all around and Is very cltnglim falling
below the rich satin undorsllp < n which
It Is mounted.
Nothing could bo smarter than the early
autumn toilet of Invisible green ocllequj
fralse. The style Is now , striking and ex
tremely becoming to nil figuies. The
present combination , that could bo ondl ssly
varied , shows an underwalst of > risji gay
red and whlto strlpc-d taffeta , that Is also
used to outline the closing of the skirt In
f re nt and to bitid the edges of the Eton
Jacket. Four big buttons are effectively
placed. The crushed collar Is of the taffeta
with still another line showing about the
wrist. A red and white silk parasul with a
fancy wood handle , also the charming straw
hat worn , are all from WanamnKer'a gnu
Now York establishment.
The charming adaptation of the golf capo
for little girls Is much In mode at present ,
and , In heavier gocds , will bo worn unill afto
Christmas. It Is known as the Red Riding
Hood pattern , though this garment is of
satin-faced periwinkle blue cloth , line !
throughout with blue and whlto stripi-d silk
The pretty pointed hood shows a bit cf lh =
fancy facing , and through long silk-worked
buttonholes a wldo ribbon of blue and white
satin Is threaded and tics In a big bow mulct
the chin.
Robert Bonner
as an Advertiser
Bonner must have had some purpose , un
conscious or acknowledged , when lie cami-
to New York In 1S4I and took place us
prcofrcader and as assistant foreman on the
Evening Mirror , wiltes E. J. Edwards In
the American Monthly Review of Revlewo
By that step ho brought himself Into touc.Ii
with" men who were the leaders of literary
life in Now Yf.rk , one of whom was the great
dandy of literature as he was the pet of
society , N. P. Willis. Bonner could not
have dreamed when ho first met Wllils that
not many years would pass before ho would
be tempting successfully the famous sister
of Willis. "Fanny Fern" ( Mrs. James Par-
ton In private life ) , to xvrite for him a story
ten columns in length for which she would
receive $1,000.
In all this , however , Mr Banner was
simply working out wli.it Ms Intuition had
well taught "him correct and skillful adver
tising could do. He not only made the mar
ket rates for tales and poonin and sketches
far higher than they had ever been , but ho
also taught the advertisers wherever the
English tongue Is spoken a lesson of
which in this day wo have seen the finest
fruits. Bonner undoubtedly xvr.s the most
expert advertiser of his time , and no man
was ever a moro honest one than ho. His
His theory was to catch the eye , to Impress
the mind , to do it by Iteration and reitera
tion , by tricks of type , by unexpected or
marvelcus thlngu , as for instance the pur-
el aso of a whole page of the Herald , by
SUMMER WALKING GOWN.
publishing i a pot I Ion of n story and slopping
the t tale abruptly with the announcement
that t the continuation would bo published In
the t Ledger. All of the great prices that he
paid j to Everett , to lleeclior , to Dickens ,
served their purpose to advertise tales and
sketches these eminent iiuthorH wrote. It
wnsjx point with Homier not to advertise or
make , any claim unless lie weio able to ful
fill | bin promise , and he often nnld that th
advertiser who made pretense to that whle-h
he j eon Id not fulllll poisoned his own an
nouncement.
And It was not the leiwt of llonnor's skill
as n proelalmer of hl wares th.it , spending
hundreds ot thousand ! ! of do.lars as ho did
,
In other periodicals and publications , hu
novel' would pel mil any one to use the col-
umiiri , of the Ledger for advertising purposes.
That of Itself made comment , niul comment
lit the soul of advertising ,
A fortune , estimated by Uminer'B filemls
as ' not far from $6,000,000 , was the new urn
he received for iihtng his nbllltlm with dis
cretion ' , energy , ami common sense , and It
was the constant BOIISO that of Unit great
fortune ' not one dollar was gained through
Injury to any man , but that It all repte-
ADAPTED GOLF C'AI'li :
sentcd recreation and healthful ple.istirv.
Hint gave Homier the giealent satisfaction
an he thought of his
Had Money and
Was Hungry
"I've slept under a shed with the ther
mometer 'way below y.eio , " said the tramp
to the San Francisco Ilulletln , "and I've
gone two rong days with nothing to cat ; but ,
I'm telling you straight that when I once
had $1,000 In my pocket I was worse cff than
at any other time I can remember. I had Just
been let out of tlio llrldowcll In Chicago , and
was begging on tlio streets and being
turned down on every hand , when I picked
up a $1,000 bill on the sidewalk. I thought
it was $1 , and you bet I made a hustle to
got down a side street. When 1 dodged into
a doorway and made out that I was $1,000
ahead of the game the Hweat started from
every pore and my knees knocked together.
I was regularly seasick for ten minutes and
my heart thumped away until I thought It
would break out.
' "That $1,000 meant a heap for mo , you un
derstand , but I was so excited that It wan
two hours before I could do any planing.
The first thing was to buy a new suit of
clothes , and I tutored a store and picked
them out. When I exhibited that $1.000 bill
the clothier ran to the dour to calf a po
liceman. I got away by a close squeeze and
then realized the situation. Tramp at ) I watt.
I couldn't get It changed at a bank nor usu
It to make mo more ciiufortnble. If It had
been a ten I could have had lodgings and u
bed , but I'm telling yrn Hint I walked the
streets as hungry as a shark and slept at
police stations and In lumber jams.
"Under the circumstances the bill might
us well have been a piece of brown paper
I tried alf sorts of dodges to get It bunted ,
but It was no go , Every tlmo I showed It
I ran the risk < it arrest. I offered a
butcher $100 to get It changed , but ho re
fused to liavu anything to do with It. I'd
have Hold It for half prlco and boon glad to ,
but thoru was no puch thing as making a
deal , Finally , In despair , I went to onu of
the newspaper olllces anil looked up the ad
vertisements for the week past. The loser
had advertised and I went to Ills ulllcu In
a big building and gave up the bill. Tin-
reward was $50 , but he counted out $10 on
top of that and said :
" 'I wouldn't have believed there was such
honesty In the world , You could have kept
the bill as well as not , '
"lie took down my name and ail that and
gave the affair away to the reporters. They
wrote mo up as the 'Honest Tramp1 and had
my picture In the papers , but you may guess
I didn't enjoy It over much. I had $ GO In
place of $1,000 , and OH for my honesty , It
was all bosh. "