.Inly 1M. 1MW. OMAHA ILLUSTRATED BEE.
f . Autumn Styles . . in Paris.
H I *
NEW YOIIK , July
21. Which way are
ovcrsklrta going , will
\vo Inivo them next
nutumn , anil of what
type ? arc some of the
live questions In
clotheslaud. If you
can get a half hour's
talk with some really
knowing modiste she
won't hesitate to tell
you that the overskirt -
skirt Is now only In Its
llrst Infancy and that
an umlraped skirt will
be the exception In the
fall , the exception even
among the tailors. It
IK no undisguised fact
that covertly women
have not only objected
The "Corluno" tobut valiantly
Dress. fought against the
bulky overdress , which
antagonism has served only to retard , not
check , the top skirt's development.
In Paris the advanced patterns , that all
the enterprising American dressmakers have
seen , show the woolen toilets to he fully
trimmed and draped below the waist Hue ,
lor as limo goes on we are to be hunched
out In the rear , looped up In front and all
the eccentric sllmncss Is to glvo place to
something vastly less trying and more elab
orate. To realize In what direction the
oversklrt Is for the present moving , a look
at ) the accompanying sketches may be
takeu. Every drapery on the petticoat
begins now as part of the waist , well up on
the shoulders , and a variety of princess
modes Is the result. When the result Is
effected , In lace over tucked muslin or
chiffon , or in plain voile or barige over a
dotted goods , it is lovely and becoming to a
degree.
The Xt'\v Slipper.
Dressmakers who get inside information
sueak of longer trains and fuller backs to
skirts to como with an air that carries con
viction , but wo should not anticipate our
fall shopping and bouts with obdurate and
cocksure modistes. Sufficient unto today are
the interests and vagaries thereof , and a
word may bo said appropriately of the
iew dancing slipper and the smart afternoon
tie. The slipper is a pretty little thing ,
modeled exactly on the shape of a man's
dancing pump , with the difference only that
the black satin or patent leather women's
shoe , prettily entitled the countess , has one
strap over the instep. This comfortable
sandal-llko affair has come over from Eng
land simultaneously with the balmoral
schottlschc and is rapidly ousting the hlgh-
heeled , big-buckled colonial slipper that has
given such long and valuable service.
A brown levant morocco tie with a too
tapering to the daintiest square Is the choic
est shoo for afternoon wear , and few and
far between this season are the women In
wjilto shoes. Early in the summer's fray
of frivolities were brought out remarkable
hnso with foot of spun silk or flue Hale and
legs of solid cream lace , Only a few , and
A SUMMER FUOCK.
these very rich tiomrL could afford such
splendors , but the pure lace lioso woke to
, llfo a general taste foi very open-worked
hose and the girl of the season , though she
wear a print dress and a sunbonnet , when
she lifts the cdgo of her skirt Is sure to
display a pair of ankles clothed In a gauze
of beautifully pierced lisle , and In the evenIng -
Ing , If she can possibly afford It , equally
( alry-Hko silk weaving. A perfectly plain
black stocking Is rarely or never seen now ,
for If the open-work type Is not adopted
wholesale , then spots are resorted to , stripes
bhowlng only very occasionally.
Doth smart and novel are the pigskin
brown , powder blue and brack hose , freckled
with whlto polka dots dashed on pell mell.
. 01110 nro large , some are mere specks , and
there Is absolutely no order observed In
their placing , for a half dozen may group
closely together , three more will string out
In line , when another colony will spring
up , and though this arrangement doee make
ankles appear rather clumsy , It Is coquettish
In appearance.
Avoktlo lilciiM.
Wo are In process of varying our shirt
waist career with an endless procession
of necktie Ideas , some of which are pretty
enough to bo carried over into the autumn
ami used as light touches on our somber
woolen frocks. For Instance , numbers of
women wear high , straight stocks with their
whlto skirts and round the bare stock wind
twice a length of cream mallnes not. When
on the second winding the net Is brought
back to the front , instead of fastening Its
lace trimmed ends lu a big bow close beneath
the chin they are brought down to u point
midway between throat and waist , there
pinned with a bright brooch and tied In a
bow. Uy so simple a scheme , to the plainest
silk or muslin waist an air of sweui
ornamentation Is given hard to derive by as
inexpensive means.
Another uoblo Invention Is that of pass
ing a broad satin ribbon of soft texture
twlco round the high collar. When drawn to
the front Its ends are put through a small
buckle of paato jewels , and this is pushed
close to the throat , whife from it llutter uu-
conllucd two long scarf ends of ribbon.
Women who don't take to those devices
love to bury their chins in the cloudy masses
of a wide winged bow of nothing more costly
than a long wisp of white silk muslin , edged
with Imitation Mcckllu lace , which is noth
ing moro after all than an Incipient Bols do
Uulogne scarf that has ends fluttering to the
knees.
Should the necessity spring up , as In every
woman's summer It does , for a fresh , in-
jxponslve hat to wear picnic or garden party-
ward , ono should bo sure to hie her tea
a hat counter and purchase the roughest
brown or deep yellow or red straw she can
find , provided it has a brim to tip over the
eyes and to tilt tin behind. On the inside
of the 'brim ' three rows of narrow self-
gathering ribbon of green should be run at
Intervals of an inch apart and then the out-
sldo of brim and crown piled with fruit.
Fruit TrliiiiiiliiKN.
Any milliner or millinery department keeps
grapes , currants , cherries and gooseberries
in sprays and clusters with their foliage on
hand , and If these , with green loaves , are
commingled and laid in a full iwrcath about
the crown , havlnc ; a cenerous handful fas
tened under the brim behind , ns smart a
summer's day headgear is secured as we
hear or read about. Though the fruit Is so
commingled , the rule with regard to mid-
season flower hats is that you confine one
species of blossom to ono straw frame
The modish llower topper is all of roses and
exclusively pink , or yellow , or red , or white
roses , at that , else It is a mound of pansles ,
or , most entrancing in hat 'possibilities , n
Leghorn overgrown with tendrils and
clusters of honeysuckle. All these millinery
models borrow not a bit of splendor from
an inch of ribbon , a scrap of lace or a
twinkle of a Jewel.
Klelil GIiiHNON.
'Among the Interesting foibles of the coun
try woman , who goee about In her auto
mobile , on her wheel , or who oven from a
deep cane rocker on a wldo casino balcony
watches other women achieve Amazonian
honors , Is the trick of carrying a pair of
field glasses. A small powerful pair of
binoculars , either single or double barreled ,
Is as distinctive a part of the duck or tweed
morning dress as card caeo and Jeweled
crain Is In town. A snakcekln strap go ° s
around the waist , a small collapsable case
of the samr > hangs at tha side , and Into the
glasa , mounted as you please or can afford ,
and no larger than the tiny opera glasses
nome pernons profess to find comfort In , fits
In the case when not In active uso.
Women whip out tholr glaseew , not only
to watch a golf game , an automobile race ,
or a brush between two boats , but to BOO
who Is coming down the road , who bowed
from the village street , who wont In nt a
neighbor's gate and also to show off tholr
glasses that maybe have exquisite mounts
and the owner's Initials In Jewels thereon.
'MAHY ' DEAN.
Living Fashion Models
A leading New York firm has recently
created a novel and exquisite nightdress
called the "Corinne. " It Is made of French
batiste of a web so silky , line and transpar
ent that an undorsllp of Florence silk Is
usually worn beneath It. Though all in ono
piece , a ring of embroidered buttonholes
circles the waist , through which two yards
of pale primrose ribbon Is threaded by
which to draw the garment close and .tie . In
a ( lowing how In front. The skirt Is finished
above the hem by a narrow band of needle
work , and the upper portion Is of alternate
strips of Irish lace and batiste. Designed
especially for summer wear , the "Corinne"
Is cut low about the neck , with a V In front ,
and from the throat falls away a deep lace
edged frill , which the primrose ribbon holds
In place. The sleeves are particularly
striking. They are horizontally handed with
lace , an edging of which is arranged In Jabot
effect , falling from the shoulders nearly to
the elbow , and rosy knots of ribbon at the
top of the armholes give the whole garment
an air of extreme coquettlshness and stylo.
The little girls' wardrobes form no ex
ception to the ruling In the fashionable
favor of pique this summer , and the dear
llttlo frock of the wide-eyed little woman
In the photograph In one of John Wana-
maker'B excellent Juvenlfo models Is of
plaid plquo , a stout , cool , picturesque affair.
Full ruches of handsome white embroidery
give a criap wlngllke effect to the shoulders
and fall deeply from the short sleeves.
About the waist runs a bolt ( if black velvet
ribbon , tied with loops of whlto taffeta at
the wrist , and this motif Is repeated with
good result on the left shoulder.
Crepon has never passed wholly out of
fashion , and some very smart combinations
of the delightful goods with silk and chiffon
have been made all through the season by
the artists In John Wnnamaker's astonish
ing Now York shop. The photograph gives
an excellent example of black crepon over
bFack taffeta. The overdress falls on n
silk skirt that carries three crisp llounccs
and the waist breaks open at the chest to
show a yoke of white chiffon. From the
edges of this snowy breastplate fall back
small lappets crisped with flutes of taffeta
1'roleotlvo association of Now Yoik v'lty ,
the Chicago Woman's club , the Now Oi loans
Woman's club , the District of Columbia
Federation of Women's Clubs , the Inili map-
oils Woman's club , llio Denver Woman's
club and the State Federation of IVi.uayl-
vnnln. The work accomplished by the Civic
club of this city Is given especial notice.
Among other things It la noted : "in ISM
the Civic club umdo Its first ciunpau.n to
elect woiuon to the school boards , A housi <
to house visitation In the Seventh w.ml
proved to bo necessary. The club eaiiit latos
wore defeated , It Is true , but each j. u- the
organization brought forward new imll-
ilatvn and In 1SU7 seven women won1 . i.'doil
or appointed to 1111 vacancies In il u.-ront
wards , while a member of the CMu club
AN AFTEUNOON CHEI'ON GOWN.
and sparkling with steel sequins. The
sleeves nro straight anncascs of taffeta
finished with chiffon and sequins and the hat
Is white tulle over dark straw and em
phasized with heavy dark wlnns.
Growth of
Woman's Clubs
Mrs. Ellen M. Hcnrotln of Chicago con
tributes nn Instructive review of tl o growth
of woman's clubs to the July number of the
Bulletin of the Department of Labor , pub
lished by the federal authorities. She Btatce
that In 1898 there were Included In thirty
Htate federations 2,110 women's clubs with
1H2.023 inomhcrB , from 1,283 of which she
has reports showing the location , name and
object of the club. Such a list must be
highly gratifying to the advocates of these
organizations.
The purposes which called women's clubs
Into existence "In the beginning wore simple
In form and umially literary or purely char-
Itablu In character , such subjects ns reli
gion , suffrage and political economy being
carefully shunned. Friendly Intercourse and
self-Improvement were the chief objects. "
This field , however , wow found too email.
Not enough Interest could ho aroused. More
practical objects were needed. In this way
the department club came Into existence
with education , reform , art , philanthropy ,
homo , science , literature and philosophy as
the aim of the work , "Grappling with edu
cational dlfUcultleB and starting school re
forms dleclrsed many glaring evils that
affected the children In each neighborhood ,
or the homo In which they live , or the bread
winner on whom the child depends. Dis
pensing charity led to a more scientific view
of philanthropy , which In turn opened up
all the Holds of Industrial achievement and
the part that women and children take In
factory and mercantile ) life. "
'How ' earnestly the women's clubs entered
Into this work Is shown by the fact that
over one-fifth of the whole number of clubs ,
or 431 , responded In the alllnnatlvu to a
question whethey they pursued the study of
sociology , political economy and philan
thropy. The clubs mentioned as doing the
most effective work In this direction are the
Civic club of this city , the Women's Health
became a member of the Central school
board. "
Ono encouraging feature of these organi
zations Is the Interest they show In mu
nicipal art. and Improvements. A striking
example In this way Is seen In Norlhlleld ,
Minn. , whore the Federation of Women's
Clubs has been Instrumental In laying out
a park and In planting Irccs In all the
streets. Historical monuments commomorut-
Ing the principal events occurring In Min
nesota history havu also been erected.
Other directions In which the energies of
women's clubs have been directed Is In estab
lishing employment bureaus , women's exchanges -
changes , lunch rooms , gyiuimHlunm and lodg
ing n urns and In nrinnglng for clauses In
which women can obtain Instructlun In dif
ferent practical brunches. The formation of
working girls' clubs has been one of the
chief objects of woman's clubs and doubtless
ono of the ways In which the must effoctlvo
work has been done. The great number of
these and the success which has attended
thum shows how pressing a want they meet.
We men clerks' bonellt associations , aid loan
associations , social BottlomuntB and wngu-
oarnors' culture clubs nro other organlza-
tloriH through which women woik.
Out of the 1.283 women's clubs whoso
special purpose Is stated In Mm Ilonrotln'fl
article only three glvo the extension of
suffrage to woman as tholr chief object.
This will correct an erroneous popular
opinion which supposes that the solo desire
of all women's organizations Is t < > obtain
the right to vote. The great majority of the
clubs glvo as tholr reason for existence the
study of history , the study of literature ,
self-culture , mutual Improvement , educa
tional work , the study of art , advancement ,
In taste , etc.
Narrow Escape
Indianapolis Journal : To the millionaire
came the Biiporlntendont of the farm with
beaming face.
"Looks like wo were going to clear ex
penses , sir , " said the hireling.
"Great heavens ! " cried the millionaire ,
"somothlnK must ho done or I am disgraced !
Go and order a J5.000 automobile to haul
the truck to market In ! "
Even one of our best people may got a
llttlo rocky on his propositions In moments
of tension ,
The Duties of
Japanese Women
The chlof duly of a JUIMIIOSO woman all
her llfo la obivllouco ; whllo unmarried , to
hi r parents ; when married , to her husband
and his parents ; when widow od , to her son.
In the "Greater Learning of Women" wo
i end :
"A woman should look upon her hu.slMud
as If hoveio heaven Itself and thus oa
cape colostlnl punishment.
"Tho llvo worst maladies that nllllct Iho
fcnmlo mind are : Indoclllty , tlinc , intent ,
sUmler , Jealousy and sIlllncfH. Without
any doubt these llvo luahdlcs nllllcl aovii 01
eight out of every ton W'liuon , and from
thorn arises the Inferiority of women to
men. A woman should on re thorn by self
Inspection and se-lf-ropnuch. The wvral of
tin m all. and the parent of the other four ,
The above extract sho\\H us very cluuly
the position which u onion hnvo , until < | Ulto
ivcoiilly , taken lu Japan. As a Gentian
wrltor bays , her condition la the Intermodluto
link between the European and the Asiatic
( in the ono hand , Japanese women nro sub
joctn1 to no seclusion , and are us carefully
I'duo.tlod us llio men , and take tholr plnco
lu society ; but , on the other hand , they have
nli.Holntclj no Independence , and nro lu com
plete subjection to tholr husbands , nous Mid
( iihrr lohUlous. They are without legal
riii\ ) ! nnd under no circumstances can a
wife obtain a divorce or separation from
her I'lislmnd , IIOWOUT great bin offense
Notwithstanding this , in no conn'ry ' doou
ono ( mil u higher standard of morality than
among the married women of Japan. Fnllh-
liwHiic&b Is practically unknown , although
the pcoi llttlo wives munt often have much
to p.it ii | . with from their autocratic lordH
nr.d masters. They bear all , however , sl-
lintly nnd uncomplainingly , their ehai.ictor-
Istlc prldo and reserve forbidding them to
i how to the outer world what they suffer.
An Omaha Prim a Donna
The many Omaha frlomlH of Miss Mary
MuniJilioff will bo ploaHud to learn that , t-do
IH r.ipldly making a imino for her.Hulf lu
European inimical circles and that bur beaut !
fill voice ami aeciiralu Intonii'ctutloii of the
maulers have won her much commendation
'I he press of the capital city of Germany ,
whore slio lias been heard of late In concert
and operu lolcM , IH ontliiiHlaritlc lu Its com
mendation of her voice , manner and rule
pi-rmmnl beauty.
lloforo leaving this city four years ago
Miss Munchhoir's ability had boon remarked
by many of the musicians heie and her sue-
c'eM IH In no manlier a surprise to them.
Shu began her studies In Eimipo under Frnu
NlokliiSH-Konipnor , cue of ttiu acknowledged
leaders of voice culliiri ! In Europe , and from
tliu very Ilrsl gave pi oof of the possession
of n wonderful vi Ice. Even during the
course of her HludUn HI ) < > attracted no llttlo
attention lu musical circles. After her com
pletion of the com so at lloriln two years
ago BIO went to Paris , where she lematncd
until last March , studying under the direc
tion of Mmo. Mareliesl. When file loft
Paris for llerlln last Hpilng Mine. Mareliesl
wrote to Arthur NlklHch , director of the
1'hlllmrmonic orchestra In the latter city
"Do all you can for this timid American
girl , my most talented pupil. "
A recent Issue of tlio Potsdamor Intolll-
gence-Illatt , an acknowledged authority In
musical circles , pays the American novice a
splendid tribute and predicts for lior a gloil
DUB careenIn the wurld of song. Her
volcii pussosses a wonderful range and the
exquisite blrdllko quality that IH HO much
sought after among slnguis.
At present iMIss Munchlioff IB engaged In
making a tour of Germany and IB being
greeted everywhere with the giealest favor
I
MISS MAKV MUNCIIHOFF.
nnd enthusiasm. Hut concerts are given
under the direction of EIIKCII Stern , u
loading European manager , and she has
engagements booked for the Singers' academy
of lloriln , 'Potsdam ' , Frunkfort-ou-tho-
Maln and a second concert at llerlln In
conjunction with the Philharmonic orchestra.
MIHS Munchlioff IB well known In Omaha
having resided hero a number of years , Her
parents utlll live In the city. She was
known here as u conscientious worker and
her friends ny that her success Is duo
entirely to her own efforts and the persist
ency with which Bho refused to acknowledge
defeat when her cherished plan for studying
at the great music centers of Europe was
seemingly Impossible ,