.n.iy . JB , jwn . OMAHA ILLUSTRATED BEE.
F Autumn Styles in Paris.
NEW YORK , July
i R 21 Which
way are
oversklrtn going , will
wo have them next
autumn , and of what
type ? are some of the
live questions In
clothcsland. If you
can get a half hour's
talk with some really
knowing modiste she-
won't hesitate to tell
you that the overskirt -
skirt \a \ now only In its
first Infancy and that
an undrapcd skirt will
he the exception In the
fall , the exception even
among the tailors. It
In no undisguised fact
that covertly women
have not only objected
The "Corluno" Night touut valiantly
Dress. fought against the
bulky overdress , which
antagonism has served only to retard , not
check , the top skirt's development.
In Paris the advanced patterns , that all
the enterprising American dressmakers have
seen , show the woolen toilets to bo fully
trimmed and draped below the waist line ,
for as lime goes on we are to bo bunched
out In the rear , looped up In front and all
the eccentric slimncss Is to glvo place to
something vastly less trying and more elab
orate. To realize In what direction the
ovcrsklrt Is for the present moving , a look
at ) the accompanying sketches may ho
taken. Every drapery on the petticoat
begins now as part of the waist , well up on
the shoulders , and a variety of princess
modes Is the result. When the result Is
effected , In lace over tucked muslin or
chiffon , or In plain voile or harlgo over a
dotted goods , It Is lovely and becoming to a
JBgree.
TIio JSVw Slipiit-r.
Dressmakers who get Inside Information
s cak of longer trains and fuller backs to
skirts to come with an air that carries con
viction , but wo should not anticipate our
fall shopping and bouts with obdurate and
cocksure modistes. SuIIlclent unto today are
the interests and vagaries thereof , and a
word may bo said appropriately of the
jjow dancing slipper and the smart afternoon
tie. The slipper Is a pretty llttlo thing ,
modeled exactly on the shape of a man's
dancing pump , with the difference only that
the black satin or patent leather women's
shoe , prettily entitled the countess , has one
strap over the Instep. Tills comfortable
sandal-llko affair has come over from Eng
land simultaneously with the balmoral
schottlscho and Is rapidly ousting the hlgh-
heeled , big-buckled colonial slipper that has
given such long and valuable service.
A brown levant morocco tie with a toe
tapering to the daintiest square is the choic
est shoo for afternoon wear , and few and
far between this season are the women In
\vhlto , shoes. Early In the summer's fray
of" frivolities were brought out remarkable
hose with feet of spun silk or fine lisle and
legs of solid cream lace. Only a few , and
A SUMMER FROCK.
these very rich nomci. could afford such
splendors , but the pure lace hose woke to
tllfo a general taste foi very open-worked
hose and the girl of the season , though she
wear a print dress and a sunbonnet , when
she lifts the edge of her skirt Is sure to
display a pair of ankles clothed In a gauze
of beautifully pierced lisle , and In the evening -
ing , If she can possibly afford It , equally
- silk weaving. A perfectly plain
Slry-llko
ack stocking Is rarely or never seen now ,
for If the open-work type la not adopted
wholesale , then spots are resorted to , stripes
showing only very occasionally.
Doth smart and novel are the pigskin
brown , powder blue and blVick hose , freckled
with white polka dots dashed on pell mell.
Cjoino are large , some are mere specks , and
there is absolutely no order observed In
their placing , for a half dozen may group
closely together , three more will string out
In line , when another colony will spring
up , and though this arrangement does make
niikfes appear rather cluuiay , It Is coquettish
In appearance.
iVcoktle ItleiiN.
We are In process of varying our shirt
waist career with an endless procession
of necktie Ideas , someof which are pretty
enough to be carried over into the autumn
and used as light touches on our somber
woolen frocks. For Instance , numbers of
women wear high , straight stocks with their
white skirts and round the hare stock wind
twlco a length of cream uiallncs net. When
on the second winding the net Is brought
bask to the front , Instead of fastening Its
lace trimmed cuds in a big bow close beneath
the chin they are brought down to a point
midway between throat and waist , thcro
pin nod with a bright brooch and tied In a
bow. Dy so simple a scheme , to the plainest
silk or muslin waist an air of sweet
ornamentation , is given hard to derive by as
Inexpensive means.
Another noble invention is that of pass
ing a broad sntlu ribbon of soft texture
twlco round the high collar. When drawn to
the front its ends are put through a small
buckle of paste jewels , and this is pushed
close to the throat , white from It Hutter uu-
conflned two long scarf ends of ribbon.
Women who don't take to these devices
love to bury their chins In the cloudy masses
of a wide winged bow of nothing more costly
than a long wisp of white silk muslin , edged
with imitation Mecklln lace , which is noth
ing more after all than an incipient Dots do
Dologne scarf that has ends fluttering to the
knees.
Should the necessity spring up , as In every
woman's summer It docs , for a fresh. In-
ixpenslve hat to wear picnic or garden party-
ward , ono should bo sure to hie her tea
a hat counter and purchase the roughest
brown or deep yellow or red straw she can
find , provided it has a brim to tip over the
eyes and to tilt up behind. On the inside
of the 'brim ' three rows of narrow self-
gathering ribbon of green should be run at
Intervals of an Inch apart and then the out
side of brim and crown piled with fruit.
Fruit 'rrliiniiiiigH.
Any milliner or millinery department keeps
grapes , currants , cherries and gooseberries
in sprays and clusters with their foliage on
hand , and if these , with green leaves , are
commingled and laid in a full wreath about
the crown , having a cenerous handful fas
tened under the brim behind , as smart a
summer's day headgear is secured as we
hear or read about. Though the fruit is so
commingled , the rule with regard to mid-
season flower hats is that you confine one
species of blossom to one straw frame
The modish flower topper is all of roses and
exclusively pink , or yellow , or red , or white
roses , at that , else it is a mound of pansles ,
or , most entrancing in hat 'possibilities , a
Leghorn overgrown with tendrils and
clusters of honeysuckle. All these millinery
models borrow not a bit of splendor from
an inch of ribbon , a scrap of lace or a
twinkle of a Jewel.
FIClll GlllHNCH.
'Among ' the Interesting foibles of the coun
try woman , who goes about In her auto
mobile , on her wheel , or who oven from a
deep cane rocker on n wide casino balcony
watches other women achieve Amazonian
honors , Is the trick of carrying a pair of
field glasses. A small powerful pair of
binoculars , either single or double barreled ,
Is as distinctive a part of the duck or tweed
morning dress as card case and jeweled
ctain is in town. A snakeskin strap goss
around the waist , a small collapsable case
of the samp bangs at the side , and into the
glass , mounted as you please or can afford ,
and no larger than the tiny opera glasses
porno pontons profess to find comfort In , fits
in the case when not In active use.
Women whip out their glasses , nri. only
to watch a golf game , an automobile race ,
or a brush between two boats , but to see
who Is coming down the road , who bowed
from the village street , who went In at a
neighbor's gate and also to show off their
glasses that maybe have exquisite mounts
and the owner's Initials In Jewels thereon.
'MARY ' DEAN.
Living Fashion Models
A leading New York firm has recently
created a novel and exquisite nightdress
called the "Corlnne. " It Is made of French
batiste of a web so silky , fine and transpar
ent that an undorsllp of Florence silk Is
usually worn beneath It. Though all In ono
piece , a ring of embroidered buttonholes
circles the waist , through which two yards
of pale primrose ribbon Is threaded by
which to draw the garment close and 'tie in
a ( lowing bow In front. The skirt is finished
above the hem by a narrow baud of needle
work , and the upper portion is of alternate
strips of Irish lace nnd batiste. Designed
especially for summer wear , the "Corlnne"
Is cut low about the neck , with a V In front ,
and from the throat falls away a deep lace
edged frill , which the primrose ribbon holds
In place. The sleeves are particularly
striking. They are horizontally banded with
lace , an edging of which is arranged in jabot
effect , falling from the shoulders nearly to
the elbow , and rosy knots of ribbon at the
top of the armnoles give the whole garment
an air of extreme coquottlshnees and stylo.
The little girls' wardrobes form no ex
ception to the ruling in the fashionable
favor of pique this summer , and the dear
llttlo frock of the wide-eyed little woman
In the photograph In one of John Wana-
maker's excellent juvenlta models is of
plaid pique , a stout , cool , picturesque affair.
Full ruches of handsome white embroidery
give a crisp wlngllke effect to the shoulders
and fall deeply from the short sleeves.
About the waist runs a belt of black vcrvct
ribbon , tied with loops of white taffeta at
the wrist , and this motif Is repeated with
good result on the left shoulder.
Crcpon has never passed wholly out of
fashion , and some very smart combinations
of the delightful goods with silk and chiffon
have been made all through the season by
the artists In John Wanamaker's astonish
ing Now York shop. The photograph gives
an excellent example of black crepon over
bfack taffeta. The overdress falls on n
silk skirt that carries three crisp flounces
and the waist breaks open at the chest to
show a yoke of white chiffon. From the
edges of this snowy breastplate fall back
small lappets crisped with flutes of taffeta
Protective association of Now York City ,
the Chicago Woman's club , the Now Orleans
Woman's club , the District of Columbia
Federation of Women's Clubs , the Indianap
olis Woman's club , the Denver Woman's
club and the State Federation of Pennsyl
vania. The work accomplished by the Civic
club of this city Is given especial notice.
Among other things It Is noted : "In ISO. * ,
the Civic club made Its first campaign to
elect women to the school boards. A house
to house visitation In the Seventh ward
proved to bo necessary. The club candidates
were defeated , It Is true , but each year the
organization brought forward new candi
dates and In 1S97 seven wo ion were elected
or appointed to fill vacancies In different
wards , while a member of the Civic club
AN AFTERNOON CREPON GOWN.
and sparkling with steel sequins. The
sleeves are straight armcascs of taffeta
finished with chiffon and sequins and the hat
Is white tulle over dark straw and em
phasized with heavy dark wines.
Growth of
Woman's Clubs
Mrs. Ellen -M. Henrotln of Chicago con
tributes an instructive review of tie growth
of woman's clubs to the July number of the
Bulletin of the Department of Labor , pub
lished by the federal authorities. She states
that In 1898 there were included In thirty
Htnto federations 2,110 women's clubs with
132,023 members , from 1,283 of which she
has reports showing the location , name and
object of the club. Such n list must be
highly gratifying to the advocates of these
organizations.
The purposes which called women's ciuba
into existence "In the beginning were simple
in form nnd usually literary or purely char
itable In character , such subjects as reli
gion , suffrage and political economy being
carefully shunned. Friendly intercourse and
self-Improvement were the chief objects. "
This field , however , was found too small.
Not enough Interest could bo aroused. Mora
practical objects were needed. In this way
the department club came Into existence
with education , reform , art , philanthropy ,
home , science , literature and philosophy as
the aim of the work. "Grappling with edu
cational difficulties and starting school re
forms disclosed many glaring evils that
affected the children in each neighborhood ,
or the homo In which they live , or the bread
winner on whom the child depends. Dis
pensing charity led to a more scientific view
of philanthropy , which In turn opened up
all the fields of Industrial achievement and
the part that women and children take In
factory and mercantile llfo. "
iHow earnestly the women's clubs entered
Into this work Is shown by the fact that
over one-fifth of the whole number of clubs ,
or 431 , responded In the affirmative to a
question whethey they pursued the study of
sociology , political economy and philan
thropy. The clubs mentioned as doing the
most effective work in this direction are the
Civic club of this city , the Women's Health
became a member of the Central school
board. "
One encouraging feature of these organi
zations is the interest they show in mu
nicipal art and Improvements. A striking
example In tills way is seen in Northfleld ,
Minn. , where the Federation of Women's
Clubs has been Instrumental in laying out
a park and in planting trees in all the
streets. Historical monuments commemorat
ing the principal events occurring in Min
nesota history have also been erected.
Oth'er directions In which the energies of
women's clubs have been directed is in estab
lishing employment bureaus , women's ex
changes , lunch rooms , gymnasiums and lodg
ing rcoms and In arranging for classes in
which women can obtain Instruction In dif
ferent practical branches. The formation of
working girls' clubs has been one of the
chief objects of woman's clubs and doubtless
ono of the ways in which the most effective
work has been done. The great number of
these and the success which has attended
them shows how pressing n wont they meet.
Wrmen clerks' benefit associations , aid loan
associations , social settlements and wage-
earners' culture clubs are other organiza
tions through which women work.
Out of the 1.283 women's clubs whoso
special purpose Is stated In Mrs. Henrotln's
article only three glvo the extension of
suffrage to women as their chief object.
This will correct an erroneous popular
opinion which supposes that the solo desire
of all women's organizations Is to obtain
the right to vote. The great majority of the
clubs give as their reason for existence the
study of history , the study of literature ,
self-culture , mutual Improvement , educa
tional work , the study of art , advancement ,
In taste , etc.
Narrow Escape
Indianapolis Journal : To the millionaire
came the superintendent of the farm with
heamlng face.
"Looks llko wo were going to clear ex
penses , sir , " said the hireling.
"Great heavens ! " cried the millionaire ,
"something must bo done or I am disgraced !
Go and order a $5,000 automobile to haul
the truck to market In ! "
Even one of our best people may get a
llttlo rocky on his prepositions in moments
of tension.
The Duties of
Japanese Women
The chief duty of a Japanese woman nil
her llfo Is obedience ; while unmarried , to
her parents ; when married , to her husband
ntul his parents ; when widowed , to her sun.
In the "Greater Learning ofVomen" we
read :
"A woman should look upon her husband
as if ho wore heaven Itself and thus es
cape celestial punishment.
"The live worst maladies that aflllct the
female mind are : Indoclllty , discontent ,
slander , Jealousy und silliness. Without
uuy doubt these live maladies ullllct seven or
eight out of every ten women , and from
them arises the Inferiority of women to
men. A woman should cure them by self-
Inspection and self-reproach. The worst of
thtm all , and the parent of the other four ,
is silliness ! "
The above extract shows us very ckatly
the position which women have , until quite
recently , taken In Japan. As a German
writer says , her condition Is the Intermediate
link between the European and the Asiatic.
On the ono hand , Japanese women are sub-
jectc-i ? to no seclusion , and arc as carefully
educated as the men , and take their place
In society ; but , on the other hand , they have
absolutely no Independence , nud are lit com
plete subjection to their husbands , sons and
other relations. They are without legal
rights , and under no circumstances can a
wife obtain a divorce or separation from
her husband , however great his offense.
Notwithstanding this , In no country docs
ono find n higher standard of morality than
among the married women of Japan. Faith
lessness is practically unknown , although
the poor llttlo wives must ofteu have much
to put up with from their autocratic lords
nr.d masters. They boar all , however , sl-
IrntJy nnd uncomplainingly , their character
istic pride and reserve forbidding them to
Hiow to the outer world what they suffer.
Ail Omaha Prim a Donna
The many Omaha friends of Miss Mary
Munchlioff will bo pleased to learn that etie
Is rapidly making a name for herself in
European musical circles and that her beauti
ful voice and accurate Interpretation of the
masters have won her much commendation.
The press of the capital city of Germany ,
where she tias been heard of late In concert
and opera rolus. Is enthusiastic in its com
mendation of her voice , manner and rare
personal beauty.
Heforo leaving this city four years ago
Miss Munchhoff's ability had been remarked
by many of the musicians here and her suc
cess is in no manner a surprise to them.
She began her studies in Europe under Fran
Nlcklabs-Kempnor , me of ttie acknowledged
leaders of voice culture In Europe , and from
the very first gave proof of the possession
of a wonderful vclce. Even during the
course of her studies she- attracted no llttlo
attention In musical circles. After her com
pletion of the course at Derlin two years
ago she went to Paris , where she remained
until last March , studying under the direc
tion of Mine. Marches ! . When file loft
Paris for Berlin last spring Mine. Marches !
wrote to Arthur Nikisch , director of the
Philharmonic orchestra In the latter city :
"Do all you can for this timid American
girl , my most talented pupil. "
A recent issue of the Potsdnmor Intellt-
gencc-Dlatt , nn acknowledged authority in
musical circles , pays the American novice a
splendid tribute and predicts for tier a glori
ous caruccr in the world of song. Her
volco possesses a wonderful range and the
exquisite blrdllko quality that Is so much
sought after among singers.
At present iMlss Munchlioff Is engaged In
making a tour of Germany and Is being
Erected everywhere with the greatest favor
MISS MARY MUNCJIIIOFF.
and enthusiasm , Hoi concerts are given
under the direction of Eugcn Stern , a
leading European manager , and she ha
engagements booked for the Singers' academy
of Derlln , Potsdam , Frankfort-on-tho-
Muln and a second concert at Derlln in
conjunction with the Philharmonic orchestra.
Miss Munchlioff Is well known In Omaha ,
having resided hero n number of years. Her
parents still live in the city. She was
known hero as a conscientious worker and
her friends say that her success Is due
entirely to her own efforts and the persist
ency with which she refused to acknowledge
defeat when her cherished plan for studying
at the great music centers of Europe was
seemingly Impossible ,