Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, July 16, 1899, Page 5, Image 25

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    .Inly 1(1. ( 1SM ! > . OMAHA LLJbUSTHATED BEE.
Summer Girl in Summer Colors
NEW YOIUC , July U. Studies l i whlto.
% < symplr nlos In white , effects In whlto ;
white , whiter , whitest , that Is the system
ntul tliecry of the summer girl who every
season generates some sartorial expression
of her Individuality. Never before , how
ever , has she so thoroughly succeeded In
securing the Ideal summer raiment , so fair ,
so becoming and Inexpensive ns thU , ami
of the thousand and one women In whlto
to bo seen any day In the country , at least
nine and three-quarter per cent of them
urn dressed In pique.
Simple whlto plquo In a variety of weaves
has given a staggering blow to the popu
larity of the colored gingham , sprigged
organdies , striped lawns and sweetest foul
ards , and the pink , green , blue or yellow
shirt waist , once dear to the heart of every
damsel , Is cast aside and forgotten. If
you fotcl : up one of these warm days with
n trunkful of Ilowery tinted gowns at n
pretentious or unpretentious resort , this
* " condition will In a single day be made per
fectly clear , and your pretty gayly colored
crstumes will promptly become almost
loathsome In your sight.
Even the housemaids in the hotel will
bo sure to have caught the Infection and
go about their duties In white , while the
feminine lodgers do make as many as
three white tollcta a day. If you try to
discover the ralson d'etre they will all tell
yon that , given a good laundress , there Is
nothing BO cheap and easy as dressing In
the blanched goods. Any woman with a
figure , provided It Is not hopelessly nb-
"normal , when she makes up her mind to
array herself In white , has only to go to the
nearest dry goods shop and In an hour , and
at the rate of about $ G a costume , lay In a
supply of frocks that will answer every
purpose for every simple or elaborate social
v fumctlon of her season.
Tilt * lOIMllllKT CltHtlllllt * .
If yon wish really to know how the
fa pchcmo works when In active operation let
us take one day In the summer career of a
woman in white and see how stio dresses It.
In the morning , when there is golf , or
wheeling , or sailing , or tennis , or simple
lounging to bo attended to , she comes forth
fresh as a daisy in a severely plain white
kirtle of pique to her ankles. It Is finished
- by a deep hem at the bottom , and if she is
n really smart girl , who keeps pace with all
the evolutions in white , she lias no pockets
let into the front of her skirt high up near
her belt , but on the front widths , just about
at ttio level where pockets are- put on an
apron , two square , capacious pockets are
inmlo by sewing big pieces of pique onto the
surface of the skirt. They may or may not
* have Haps to button down over their tops ,
but at any rate there they are , and the
owner of them finds honest comfort and
convenience in their possession. She puts
golf balls and her score book , her keys and
anything else tlio wishes Into those big re-
ceptaclcs , and feels solid satisfaction in a
way she never was able to realize from c .
concealed bag In the upper part of hei
petticoat.
With this easy-going garment , a white
AN AFTERNOON HAT.
skirt that has no yoke In the back , but
three wide boxpleats and a little yoke effect
on the shoulders , is the next essential thing.
In other particulars It Is Just llko any ordi
nary shirt waist , though no collar or leather
belt Is worn with It.
To have the proper freedom for any sport
that may turn up. a linen collar and rigid
bolt arc not suitable , so round her neck
the morning girl winds a whlto silk hand
kerchief. She puts It on so that two corners
of It overlap and hang under her chin , llko
a small bib , and in the folds of this bib
an ornamental Httlo brooch Is fastened. At
the back of the neck the handkerchief Is
tied and again pinned to the neckband of
* the shirt waist. Hound her slender middle
this girl draws a man's largo silk moucholr ,
tying It In a firm knot In front , but a trifle
to the left or right side. Silver links or
bent buttons of plain silver nil the cuff
button holed , and the substitute for a hat
is a small whlto plquo sunbonnet , usually
. carried on ono arm , nnd only utilized when
Kho sun Is hot enough to encourage a. burnIng -
Ing , to bo followed by shedding of precious
cuticle.
Whlto shoos and hose are not ordinarily
a part of the morning suit thla summer
.for obvious practical nnd economic reasons.
Drown ties of ample solo area , especially
about the toes , sensible heels , and yellow
or bronze hose to match hnvo been chosen
for matlueo wear , nnd gloves , If carried nt
all , are usually worn In their brown-lmnded
owners' pocket.
Vue Ml ilil ayVur. .
When the afternoon arrives nnd the driv
ing and tournament watching , teas , etc. ,
begin no transfer Is effected to rainbow
glories of organdie or silk , but n fresh nnd
quite Immaculate study In white Is mado.
This time the skirt escapes the floor , though
It is not distinctly short , nnd It may have
a couple of flounces nt the foot , with narrow
inttnd their neeUs , and leaving gloves to
these who know no bolter than to wear the
shackles of elly fashions during summer's
freedom.
Not only Is It the fashion from a sense
of fitness and beauty to dress thtiti simply
and effectively In whlto , bat women do It
from comfort's sake , nnd even wonltliy girls
boast of the chenpni s and dispatch with
which their pretty suits wore procured. To
give ono example : A girl netting out for
nn afternoon tea nt NnrrngnntiOtt Itemized
her crisp toilet thus : The skirt was chosen
from a lingo pile of rondy-mudc pottlconts
nnd cost $ ! 1 and did not need to have one
stltoh altered. The shirt was bought ut an-
A SUMMER WRAP.
insertions of embroidery let in near theli
hems. The shirt waist half of the toilet is
pique , but embroidered in groups of small
three-leafed cJovers or clusters of crescents
and cither a stock tie of whlto lawn Is used
or a two and a half inch high collar , with
an ascot of stiff pique , showing a very email
pearl plnhead. A white talfota ribbon docs
duty at the waist and the topping-off Is done
with a wide-brimmed , slanting-crowned hat
of cream varnished straw , tipped over the
eyes and trimmed with folds of white taffeta
about the crown , a rosctto of It on one Bide
and a long , snowy quill stuck through the
rosette.
Very top-lofty girls , who feel the for
mality of the occasion , wear first a veil of
very fine whlto silk tulle over their faces
and then laid upon this a veil of white
coarse Russian net , with largo silk cater
pillar dots on It , while the more easy
going of the whlto company adopt thin veils
of whlto chiffon , cut at the bottom In scal
lops and the scallops edged with the very
narrowest kind of gathered white satin rib
bon. Wash leather , or whlto suede lisle
gloves are always preferred by the country
colonies to the hot , easily soiled glace kids ,
and brown varnished or patent leather ties
with smart openworked lisle hose , prettily
dotted , Is the correct footgear.
At those afternoon frivolities parasols of
whlto dotted swlss , white taffeta , whlto em
broidered muslin or captivating straw sun
shades are carried. The straw parasolo
open out as flat ns these Japanese pro
tectors made of paper , they are novelties
and both expensive and fragile , though very
pretty with their palo yellow canopies and
bamboo sticks. An oddity adopted by the
bearers of commonplace wlilto muslin para
sols Is that of tying three small silver-
plated bells outside the muslin canopy and
as close ns possible to the point to which
the ribs converge. At every motion of the
sun shade a jangling of sweet bells In
minute tune Is heard ,
Wlild-Nt Toilet of TlK-in All.
When evening shades prevail and the hour
ot the casino hop draws nigh the scasido and
mountain rcsorters come down to dinner and
dancing In pique skirts that touch the floor
bctilnd and that are fancifully adorned by
Insets of open-work embroidery. With Mich
a skirt an all-over embroidery bodice , hlgh-
neckcd nnd long-sleeved , buttoning up be
hind , OT a very elaborate white chiffon waist ,
or ono all tucks nnd horronbonlng nnd crys
tal buttons , of fair taffeta , or a decollete
cream Inco body , are any one of thcan per
fectly sweet and suitable. To dinners and
small dances at private houses the younger
element at a summer resort go arrayed In
such artfcss simplicity , pinning big bows of
whlto tulle In their lialr , slinging small fans
or chains of whlto coral or crystal beads
other counter In the same shop nnd cost
? 2.EiO ; there was a high collar on the whirl ,
eo a plquo necktie was needed , and a lovely
one with a pearl pin in It came to Ifi cents.
Anyone can add these Hems and discover
what Ibis simple , comfortable and unvary
ingly becoming little outfit did cost , and the
tlmo required to produce it was forty min
utes. It is now a question whether tbo most
stonily economical homo drossmiiKIng can
beat this. MARY DEAN.
Living Fashion Models
Our principal pleturo is a wonderfully lux
urious summer wrap , created and worn b >
the English countess of Dudley. Tbo dupli
cate was PL sod on Rcdfoin'o famous model.
The material Is known as Hindoo velvet , n
peculiarly soft and lustrous pile , enriched
with conventionalized lotus flowers. 'Hio
colors nro nn artistic oriental combination
In dull rose and n scat let that Is almost
black. The warp is encircled by a wide full
flounce of TCHO chiffon over JOnck llsso , the
edges finished with a quilling of the chiffon ,
that Is golforod with n big becoming collar.
A SUOI'I'INO HAT.
Thco lints were especially selected for the
young English peeress , who IK noted for lur
dark bouthern coloring.
Black and whlto M confessedly the most
popular combination this season , and u
charming afternoon hut for n young girl IB
Illustrated in the photograph. The founda
tion Is the airiest whlto silk tulle , skillfully
arranged In cloudy folds over a flue wire
frame A black vohol band oneitcling the
crown Is tield In front by a bin buckle of
billllantb ; there IK an upstanding pompon
of Illusion and to the left a Inigo Ink blackbird -
bird that gives an nlr of gioat distinction
to the wholo. At the back are white- roses
crupjied ngalimt the brim. This Is Mom tbo
millinery doi > urliuont of John U'anamnkor's
Now York ostabllHhmcnt.
The botomliig toutnllo lint shown Is a
model of good form for traveling , shopping
and general walking wear. H Is a creation
of John Wuiinmukor's Now VorK establish
ment , and for color , style ami decoration
IUIH boon generally ndmliod. Ni thing can
excel Its extreme simplicity. The hat Is of
two brilliant black straw braids woven to
gether aftov the approved Eugll-h shape ,
having a rather wldo rolling brim ami low
erojvu. A big bow of tlio sumo minw tied
Inlth heavy silk tulle IB its sole decora
tion , except for a pair of gUUi'iing crjHtnl
plus stuck carelessly through one wing of
the bow.
Female Pearl Divers
tA letter from an American in Seoul , the
capital of Corea , describes a visit the writer
had recently paid to the large Island of
Quolpaort , Just south ot Corea and a nail
of that country , it appears that one of the
main lines of business Is diving for tlio pearl
cjster and that the diving operations are
wholly monopolized iby women. Hero Is
an extract from the lotler :
" 1 think the most unique sight I ever
enw was the women illvors at Quolpaurt.
1'erhaps you may have heard that only
women divers are engaged In tlio pearl oys
ter fisheries Ihere. Every day 1 was there
I saw a lot of them going out to tholr worker
or returning with the fruits of their quest
under the sea. They are not a very hand-
same crowd , but they have line , supple fig
ures , and can swim n well as any fish
of the deep. Each wears a very scanty
bathing dress llmt looks as though It might
bo made of gunny sack. Tied to a string
around their waists Is a gourd with a stop
per In the nock of It to keep tlio water out.
Tied to the gourd Is a Httlo bag. The third
and last article of the equipment Is a sickle ,
which is alwo fastened to the waist and
rests on the back till the women get out
to the fishing grounds.
"You might think that boalu would bo
kept to carry these women out to tholr
toil , but no ; they work their passage and
it Is a lesson In Uio art of swimming to see
thorn. They wade out a few yards and
then breast the waves , moving s-award with
long , quick strokes and cutting the water
llko a racing uholl. They swim out about
half a mile. My favorite amusement was
watching as much aa I could see of their
subsequent operations through a glass.
They -would take off the gourd and llttlo
bag and leave thorn floating around on
the surface. Then , sickle In hand , down
they would go , head llmt , and J was told
that they had to sink forty or fifty feet to
the bottom.
"About the tlmo I : nndo up my mind
they would uovor bo seen again alive , up
they would coino , sometimes right near
whore the gourd was floating and some
times several rods away. They would
put tholr oyster or two or three of them
In the llttlor bag , tnko a few long breaths
and down they would go again , repeating
the process until the bag was filled. It
Is said they will stay out for hours rather
than return before they have all tlio
oysters that can bo crowded Into tbo bag.
Any etranger must ndmlro them both for
tlioir splendid endurance and for their
swimming. It's worth more than all the
tank performances you over BUW.
"Tho sickles nro used to cut away the
seaweed at the bottom so that the divers
may get at the stones and earth to which
tlio oysters fasten themselves. A pearl Is
very rarely found , but when a diver cap
tures the prlzo she thinks her fortune IB
mado. The shell is used as mother of
pearl and the oysters are eaten In largo
quantities , both on tlio Island and on the
mainland. "
Julia Knew Herself
"Oh , .Mamie , " Bald the blonde girl to the
biuiiotto , relates the Chicago Inter Ocean ,
"I've got a piece ( .f news , John Davis pro
posed to Julia Smith last night , and of coursj
Hho said yes , and they are to ho married In
September , and "
"Yew , I've heard It ail ; everybody In the
neighborhood knows all about It , " In
terrupted the brunette. "And what's mor ,
I know oxuctl'y how Blie managed It. Oh ,
slie's a sly one , IB Julia. "
"Tandem , moonlight , etc , I B'POHO , " eaid
the blonde girl.
"Nothing of the Bert , " said the brunette.
"Hor Behonio was really qulto Ingenious nnd
original. H was llko this : John , you know ,
KS a qnoor Hort of a chop. Ho Is athletic
himself , and ho dosplBCB a woman who hasn't
the llg'iro ' of a washerwoman and the
Htreiigth of a circus acrobat , Ho talks about
tlio physical do i-norney of iho Amoilcan
woman , rails at corsets and all that mirt
of thing and swoai-H ho'lr never marry a girl
who Immi't a constitution llko a riilllpplui'
woman or some ether kind of savage. Of
coin-no , ho doesn't say all this point blank to
the girls thoiiiBohos , but bo's nl\utyn \ hint
ing at II , and when IIO'H with the boys he
talks right out plain. Of corn-no Julia hears
all thlH from her brother , Sam. sho's ol
a beautiful figure , Julia hns , 1 must admit
that. Hut she doesn't go In for golf , nnd
ho Isn't devoted to the wheel' . She's the
other sort distinctly feminine , you know ,
and all that Mirt of thing. She doesn't llko
short whirls or mannish tdilrt waists nnd
collars , and BtlekB to clinging diaporles and
Biicli things. So , ot course , John , though ho
likes Julia qulto a little , falls Into the Idea
that she's a soft , feminine , nucleus wort of
creature , without any HtroiiKth , and nothing
but a society butterfly.
"Well , Julia slr.on up tlio Hitimllon mill
makes up her mind to open John's eyes
Her mother , you know , Is a BplVndld IHHIHO-
keeper , and ono of those practical -women
who bollovo In glrlB knowing how to di
things about a IIOIIHO. Consequently , Julia
knows how to do all sorts ot things wnsdi
and Iron and cook and all ( ho rest. So one
night Julia loads on the unsuspecting John
until ho Is riding Ills hobby good and strengThen
Then Hho gets him to admit that because nlu >
( loon not go Into athletics of all kinds he
thinks she's a glided bulterlly , or would to
that effect. Thou she up and offers to bet
him that she'll' do the family \\nshlng the
next Monday , and do it in style , llo c.m't
back out , and who wagoiH a theater party
against a box of gloves. Of course. John
himself Is to bo the Judge that's tlio game
" \Vcll , John shows up Monday morning
and finds Julia well along with the washIng -
Ing ; In fact , she's just icady to hang out
the first of the clothes. And iniiyho who
wasn't made up for his benefit ! She had on
a blue print gown , and looked as neat as a
pin. Just think of the possibilities Bloovos
rolled up to the elbow over round , white
arms ; clinging skirts that revealed un
suspected charms over the washboard ,
dainty attitudes as she Btooped over the
clothes basket , ami stood on tiptoe to reach
the clothes line ; glimpses of Blender ankles ,
etc. Humph ! No wonder lie proposed that
very night. "
An liurly Weapon
Through the kindness ot Mr. J. U. Keen ,
reports the Conservative , there has been
placed In the Nobrawka City I'nhliu library
u piece of artillery which compels the
wonder and amazement of oven the oldest
settlers , who knew something about gnus
themselves at one time. They all say they
never saw anything like It in the heavens
above nor In the earth beneath ; on the
plains , nl In Maromma. They are ready to
certify that Its llko exists not In the posses
sion of the wildest of wild Indians , though
the most extraordinary arms are found In
their assortments ; they have been collecting
them for a hundred years and they never
discard them until they blow up.
This gun was found by Mr. Kces among
the effects of a tenant of hit ) , who ho thinks
had at some tlmo served In the Ilrltlsh
army. It is something over n loot long
and wolglia three and one-halt pounds. It
Is mndo with n revolving cylinder , which
carries no less than nine shots ; 11 Is meant
to carry powder and ball and bo discharged
by means of a percussion cap and lias n
ramming apparatus attached , which Is on
the loft sldo of the barrel , Instead of under
neath , as In the old army Colt's. Its crown
ing glory is a good-Mined shotgun barrel ,
which occupies tlio center of the Immense
cylinder nnd projects beneath the ether
barrel ; with this , while the fortunnto j w-
sesKor was regaling his adversary with his
nlno bullets , lie could surprise him between
llnicH with a charge of small shot ; this
could not fall to throw him off bin guard
nnd put him nt a disadvantage.
The weapon is of French manufacture , for
It 'bears ' the following legend upon the top
of HH upper barrel : "Systomo Lomat , Ilto ,
S. 0. D , ( } . , Paris , " signifying , apparently.
Hint ono Ixjinnt Invented II , that ho took out
a iiatont upon It and that the French gov
ernment declined to become responsible fin
Its operation. It Is not necessarily of very
great antiquity , for revolve not differing
essentially from It In principle ) wore used
in great numbers throughout the civil war.
As the French hnvo usually been a few yen IN
ahead of UH In such matters , It probably
dates from Homowhero In the 'CDs.
Handicapped
Chicago Tribune"I can't sny I am nui'-'i
disappointed In you , " Bald Mr. Iluill.in
sternly , eying his eldest son , who had come
homo from college In disgrace. "I never
expected you to amount to ai ythlng. "
"No , " loBpoitdod the young man , with a
sort of feeble roBanl incut. "I Imvnn't had
as good a Htart In life as you had. You
weio a p-or boy , with every Inducement
to mnKo somebody of yourself , and I'm
nothing but a rich nmn'ii BOH. "
Greater America Official Souvenir Spoon.
T
The manufacture and sale of the olllclal Souvenir Spoon In solely In the hands of
Qeo. W. Hyun & Co. Sterling Silver Tea size , J1.60 and $2.00. Sent postpaid on re
ceipt of price. Dealers supplUd ut wholesale prices.
Jewelers Oinahii Geo. W. Ryan fc Co. 100 South Ktth HI.