Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, April 23, 1899, Page 18, Image 18

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    TIFR onr.urA DAILY rEisrvnAV : , AIMUL
FA.SIIIO.V8 liATIJST IIKI'IIK
llroMH mill CUIINICIIOIIM |
I'orhi't lloli-N Out of Favor.
NEW YORK , April 20. The thrifty feml-
nlno mltiil , just now focused Intently on the
getting up of things comfortable for sum
mer , l hnrrassed to a degree over the nuta
tion of skirls. Women who do cnrcfu
"flhop gnzliiR" nro coming to the conclusion
tlmt there Is no faith to bo put In the pres
ent cut of skirt , with Its lanky tall ami
clo3o hip fit , and the fortune tellers ol
fan hi on advise very modined Imitations ol
the wondrotm iiottlco.it ? worn by the wax
women In the show windows. They don't
believe It Is exactly fnfo to run with ono'd
expensive silk or satin to the present ex-
'romo , and a a matter cf fact. It Is not.
Cling with cheerful conviction to your modi-
nod skirt. If you would bo wise , and If you
wlflh to wear or make It over next season.
Let the rear width merely brush the lloor ,
cut the front to easy stepping length , not
m If you were making nil old style riding
habit , and don't , as your reputation for
tanto anil elegance depends upon It , clone
your pockcthole with ornamental pins or
'buttons. ' Let your frivolous friends waste
their pin 'money and deface their gowna
with such eccentricities , which no moro
than arrived In the arena of fashion before
they became hopelessly vulgarized ,
Avolil l'\t ri'liu'H.
It IK only right and generous also for one
who nffiumes to give news of the mode to
Inform her readers that among well dressed
women a skirt fitting without pleat or gather
over the back Is regarded ns un excessively
poor choice. It Is all very well to quote
that In Paris women wear their dresses so
tight they dare not sit down hi them , but
such nn accusation Is not to 'bo ' brought
against the Parisian women. Felix , I'aquln
and the rest of their fellow artists mnko
ouch abnormal costumes for actresses , but
for the members of good society quite
another cut Is followed.
With all soft , thin goods , such as voile ,
crepe , silk mohair , etc. , the back of the
overdress Is cut on the- bias so artfully that
from the belt n slight fulness commences
and you are left In doubt as to whether
there Is a pockethole In that fulness or not.
Its whereabouts are never proclaimed by
buttons and pins nnd such.
Again , let It be known once and for all
that no woman should cut her street dress
with a flowing toll. There Is nothing re
pulsive in the use of trains , but in their
abuse , and she who drags a length of good
material through the street mlro Is a
straggler In the modish procession. The
' . . . . . 1I--I . . . \ \
.JL1 - V
. . . . . J
STITCHED TAILOR SUIT.
smart woman has all but her house and
ovenlng gowns so cut that by catching a
handful of goods just four Inches below her
belt In the rear and lifting and pressing her
hand against her belt she holds the tall of
her skirt absolutely clear of dust , displays
a clean pair of heels , a glint of bright Bilk
petticoat , and occasionally .1 trlllo of prettily
stockinged ankle.
TinClillToii ( 'out.
Perhaps the only genuinely novel article
that the makers of fashions have evolved
this spring Is the coat of chiffon. Since last
autumn lovely lace Jackets havu been to the
fore , but they bavo always served as a fixed
nnd essential part of any toilet to which
they were attached , while the new chiffon
wraps arc put off and on as though they
were worn for warmth and comfort.
In the trousseaux of Miss Virginia Pair
nnd Miss Kmlly Sloan chiffon wraps of vari
ous shapes and sizes were provided. Some
of them wore circular capes that dropped
to the heels behind , veiling but not conceal
ing the lovely gowns over which they might
bo thrown. Others were short Jackets and
long blousy coats of summer green or cycla
men red chiffon , with nicked rovers and
yokes , and worn over gray or black frocks ,
thus bringing out each other's colors. Occa
sionally tlic'Fo diaphanous wraps are seen
with belts of woven Russian gilt that gather
In all the 111 my fullness at the waist line , ,
nnd again the pinaforc-llkc fulness Is al
lowed to hang quite free , rippling back
prettily at every movement of the wearer.
Sparrow gray and sparrow brown uro the
SELF HOME TREATMENT FOR
LflUIF.S !
I'neUime , with Complete
IiixtriiutloiiN , illiiKrniiiN u ml ropy of
"Woman mill HIT \Vcii UIIOHHI-H , " | < >
nil
I will send tin nbovo
FKK13 to all who have
"pains In the buck , "
"dragglng-down sen
sation. " leucotTlioen
or "whites , " fear pf
coming evil , ( Tying
upells , dark rlngu un
der eyes , bloating , un
healthy complexion ,
pain In lircust , hack of
neck or head , dyspsp.
sla , utccrntlon , nerv
ousness , creeping feeling uji spine. palpita
tion , hot Hashed. Irritation , weight In lower
part of abdomen , cramps , pain or soreness
in ovarler , etc.
The treatment Is easily used , perfectly
harmless and docs not InttTferu with usual
occupation. It Is prescribe * ! by the physi
cians at the .Sanitarium and ladles use U
themselves at trilling oxpeim1. All who
tire Ktiffirlns ro Invited to address , In con-
' '
CnCtilllH. ; KHUDA 1C. JIAV , Supt. ,
Soiilli lltMid Sanitarium ,
.South Ill-lid , liul ,
Incorporated under state laws ,
Nurses wanuU to list their addresses with iu
two most recent developments In color for
spring walking nnd traveling suits , whether
of twccil or covert cloth. H Is Impossible
not to remark the predominance of stitchIng -
Ing used by way of decoration on the plain
walking suit and also the unchecked sway
of the tailless coatee to the utter dis
comfiture of the little old style jacket cut.
Moat of the coatee ? , as women love to call
them , have doublc-brcaetcd tongue fronts
that arc moro Interesting than strictly orna
mental.
As to the stitching , you can't have too
much of It , and some of the most attractive
suits finished by the tailors this month
show horizontal or perpendicular lines of
machine stitching from hem to collar of
coat and skirt , they nro spaced rather
widely up to the knees ; from there on to
the belt they grow closer nnd closer to
gether , nnd rovers , back , fronts and sleeves
of the coat are stitched to harmonize with
the skirt. When the lines run perpendicu
larly they ray out fiom the skirt's belt to
hem and zig-zag or meet In fanciful points
on the coat. Sowing silk of a color slightly
contrasting with the goods Is used for thin
purpose. That Is , light brown or cream
stitching Is used on n 'dark brown gown ,
steel blue or white on a gray dress and
black on a green suit , but sharp contrasts ,
as gold on black , arc to bo avoided.
I.HIM' NlM'Utlt'l.
Around the towering collars of their new
flllkaistn and their linen shirt collars tin ;
women who are llrst In at the goal of the
mode arc triumphantly wearing the loveliest
lace four-ln-hauds. From the richest hand-
wrought Duchess point to the serviceable
and simple llerre these now scarfs will have
a long leaoc of favor. Of course such neck-
tics are sold already drawn into the ap
proved knot , for lace will not 'bear much
pulling and hauling. Their long ends are
wedge-shaped and display lovely patterns ,
and occasionally their handsome tabs fall
eight Inches below a wearer's waist line.
In the evening the same women who
patronize these new neckties have set the
mark of their approval on that long-Ignored
ornament , the Jeweled cross. It Is usual to
wear not the ehapu of cross popular twenty-
five years ago , but a ' .Maltese , a Celtic or n
Jerusalem cross , and madu of diamonds or
pearls , or heml-prcclous stones. The Jeru
salem cross Is the least commonplace form ,
constating of four Jeweled bars arranged
almost In diamond shape. Whatever shape
of cross you may have , don't hang It about
your neck 'by ' anything but a narrow black
velvet ribbon. The Jewels In the ornament
and the neck about which It Is worn gain
by means of the simple velvet double bril
liancy and whiteness.
lloinii't StrliiKM.
.A perfectly kind , but perfectly firm stand
bas been taken by the milliners on the ques
tion of bonnet strings , lly coaxing their
fashionable customers , using a little stern
ness with their country patrons and by fib
bing Industriously these artful milliners
hope to Innoculate women with the notion
that strings are really the mode. A really
sweet rose and bow bonnet that can't be
worn save with the aid of strings has done
more to help the milliners In their crusade
than anything else.
This bit of perfection consists of two
nlry wired loops otstulfo or lace joined in
the middle by a tig , sllk rose , or carnation'
or orclrtd , and planted conspicuously on the
very front of one's head and supported "by
the hair combed high and forward. The
wlng-llko loops jut far to right and left
and arc held ostensibly in place by very
narrow scarfs of tulle that pass down un
der the chin and knot in 'a tiny tuftllke bow
right under the left ear. These bonnets
promise to have a conspicuous place on the
beads of spring and summer bridesmaids.
MAHY DBAX.
ni2\UIM2 HEAtTV SI.KKl'S.
How , Wlicn mill WhiTiIt Mny He
WOIIIM ! SnorosNl'ully.
"Women nowadays He In beds that nro so
soft , surround themselves with BO many
cushions and pile so much covering over
hem , " said an eminent physician , "that tha
body gains no ventilation whatever. High
) lllows throw the head forward and inter-
ore with healthful breathing , while all sorts
of positions are taken with regard only to
getting comfortable.
"A hard bed Is the best thing In the
world for making the flesh firm. I have
mown patients to apparently reduce their
weight twenty or thirty pounds after slfep-
ng so foe several months , but on being
weighed they would find that no flesh had
aeon lost ; It had simply hardened and lost
Its llabblncss.
"Sleeping on tao back Is not healthful.
It results in a gravitation of blood to the
brain. Persons who dream much and have
nightmare usually sleep in this position.
It also has a tendency to throw the palate
back , causing mouth breathing , which in Its
turn is a frequent cause of throat trouble ,
as the air reaches the lungs without being
purlllod nnd moistened by passing through
the nose.
"Lying on the left side , with the arm
thrown behind , Is the best position tor both
giving a fine flsuro and promoting health.
All animals sleep upon the chest as nearly
as possible , with the back up , and thi - know
pretty well the best methods In these mut
ters. It will bo found that In lying on
the left side with the left arm thrown bo-
blnd one brings the body nearly over the
chest.
"As for sleeping on high pillows. It Is
the easiest thine In the world to urow de
pendent upon them , as they favor cerebral
anaemia , which induces sleep ; they also tend
to contract tha chest , and ono desiring the
best chest expansion possible must make
up her mind to dispense with all but ono
very small pillow ,
"A soft bed la enervating. It embraces
the body and makes the tissues llabby ,
which , together with heavy covering , Inter
feres with the circulation and prevents the
body from throwing off Impurities.
"Tho brain will receive moro perfect rest
If the sleeping room Is moro completely
darkened , and for those who are bad sleep
ers this precaution should bo especially
taken. The morning light pouring In on
the face of the sleeper is particularly bad
for the eyes , and for this reason nlono
should not bo tolerated. Parents should bo
mindful of this fact In arranging sleeping
rooms for their children , nnd early accustom
them to sleeping In a darkened room , Slum
ber under these conditions Is always moro
refreshing. "
A CIIICAUO ( JK.Mt'S.
Author , I'll I u I IT uml Wonderful
Worl.i-r In MflalN.
Fancy being , able to go to your own forgo
and create miracles In gold , silver and
enamel Jewelry to match any scheme of color
you choose to wear ! This Is exactly what
Mrs. Wynno can do. You should see her
wonderfully picturesque effects in filmy
Oriental or Iridescent textiles , set off by
buckles , brooches , buttons , girdles , hair or
naments , et ; . , of bur own design and manu
facture , and this is but the alphabet of her
metal work , for it embraces lampshades ,
scouccj , boxes , ladles , spoons , tunkards ,
bowls , trays In fact , anything and every
thing that was ever made of gold , silver ,
copper or brass , Indeed , I doubt If eluca
| ho days of Ucnvomito Olllnl any one has
biought such love of handicraft , such a pas
sion fdr creation ami such Individuality ol
expression Into metal work.
She Is without doubt the only woman sil
versmith In the world. There nro a few
clever women designers of jewels , but Mrs.
Wynne actually does every bit of the work
herself , from the tlmo that the metal la
crtido ore until It Is a finished work of art.
Mrs. Wynne's work Is Indeed a complete
getting away from the conventional , smooth ,
artificial machine work of the present day ,
with Its endless repetition of the same pat
terns. U has altogether' an nborlgbliil air ,
reminding ono of those wonders of pro-
hlstorlo times,1 for which people In these
days are willing lo pay fabulnus prices ; yet
It cannot bo said to bo Aztec , Uyzantlne ,
Honalssanc-e or Florentine , but has n < | uallty
all Its own the Individuality of Its creator.
Mrs. Wynne's remarkable versatility offers
a pleasing' study In heredity. Daughter of
the Inventor of the Yae ) lock , she has In
herited his mechanical skill along with his
artistic tendencies , for he , too , was a
painter. Moreover , as n llttlo girl shu
had the same manual training as her
brothers. When only 10 years old her father
took her one day Into his shop , saying :
"My .daughter , It Is time that you learned
to use tools , " and presented her with a
lathe. The next day she cut herself rather
severely In the palm of the hand and upon
showing the wound to her father ho said :
"Yes , that Is the mark of rt workman and
you will carry that honorable scar to the
end of your days. " When she- had mastered
the lathe she had a long course In me
chanical drawing nnd afterward , under her
father's Instruction , learned to draw buds ,
leaves and Ilowers In the most minute man
ner , so that as a young girl she was a good
draughtsman. From her mother , who was a
CHIFFON COAT.
constant contributor to the periodicals , she
inherited the literary talent which has
voiced Itself In her ilnely imaginative , most
enticing and elusive btorles. George Cable
said of her paintings that they wore like
Hawthorne's stories , nnd a distinguished
French artist upon seeing one of her orna
ments in metal said : "Madam , ono docs
not need a great canvas to make a picture ;
you have made a picture with this bit of
enamel. "
VV03H3.V I.AWYISIIS.
Prominent \ < -\v York AVoiiii > ii Ainonur
Itoc-fiil ( irii < lmiles ,
A law class of forty-eight women has Just
been graduated from the New York uni
versity. U Is now nine years since this
course was introduced , says Harper's Hazar ,
yet the public is Just beginning to under
stand and appreciate its purpose. Its aim
la not to make lawyers out of women , butte
to give them a practical knowledge of the
laws which concern them , especially In the
direction of the management of property.
Most of the women who have taken the
course have had no Idea of following the
law as a profession. Helen Gould was ono
of the graduates several years ago. In tliU
year's class were such women as Mrs. Wash
ington Hoebllng , vice president of Sorosls
and the wife of the famous engineer ; Mrs.
Homier , thp wife of the publlnher ; MIM
Hcasle Schleslnger , the daughter of a banker ,
Mrs. McKi'lway , wife of the editor of the
Hrooklyn Kagle ; a daughter of cx-Mnyor
( Jllroy , a daughter of Justice Leonard of the
supreme court , a daughter of Chancellor
Mncfrncken and other wimien of wealth
and of position. About one-fourth of the
number were married women who have , or
are likely to have , property to manage.
The graduates from the university are by
no means all the New York women who
have been studying the laws which govern
the transaction cf business. There are other
classes , composed In several Instances of
rich women , who meet In one another's
drawing room , quite as If they constituted a
rowing society or anything else traditionally
feminine. They have an accredited lawyer
ns an Instructor and arc said to bo bright
nnd Interested pupils.
TnjII'lJltAM'IJ Til 141II TI2ST. .
Ione Inlnnil ( jlrls Won't .Hurry Alcn
Who Toiii-h llitior. |
The white ribbon is the badge of a llttlo
settlement on Long Island and temperance
rules the town.
"Wo do hereby severally and collectively
agree never to marry men who drink. They
must sign the pledge before they ask us for
our hands. "
This platform has been adopted by the
girls of the little Long Island town o
Grccnport. The men have dropped their
drinking ways and they nro all eating cloves
The saloon keepers , fceclng nothing but rult
In sight , have appealed to the girls to change
their minds , but they declare they will not.
The girl trust for the suppression o
drunkards was organised at the homo o
Mrs. S. 11. Hot-ton In First street , Grccnport
A total abstinence society was formed nm
the members announced that they hat
agreed to boycott drinkers matrimonially.
Mrs. Cora K. Sherry , the late secretary o
the woman's work department of the
Women's Chrlstlon Temperance union , made
n speech , paving the way to this stand
Mrs. Horlon said that the only pledge abso
lutely required from them was that of total
abstinence , the other agreement being op
tional.
The young men of Grccnport , It Is said
are not especially bibulous , but more of theb
earnings go In liquor than the girl trust
thinks right. A btudy will bo made of the
results of alcoholic marriages and lectures
will bo given showing the dreadful endings
of homes In which the husbands are drink
ing men.
Mrs. llorton declares that the men must
stop altogether , and would not admit that
they could just take a "wco llttlo sip. "
"lllltlllK" KAMI'S MAUIII.12S.
Ui > iiiliilNfciiiT.s of One Who I'luycil
with llrr Whi'ii She WIIK ( ilrl.
Twenty years ago , more or less , 1 know
Miss Virginia Fair , now Mrs. W. K. Van-
dorbllt , says a writer In the New York Jour
nal. Wo met on an old waste dump on
South n street of Virginia City , Nov.
We were introduced by circumstances. A
lot of small boys and girls wore playing
marbles on one of the few level spots on
the Comsloek when down the bank rolled a
gorgeous marble , an agate , of size worth
thirty china marbles of any boy's money.
It was seized upon by a freckled boy with a
skinned nose. If memory serves mo right
ho was wearing the ragged remnant of his
big brother's trousers.
Following the rolling marble came a fairy ,
a big-eyed baby girl , with black curls ,
dressed In a short whlto slip , with a big
blue sash and with a sunbonnet hanging by
its strings.
"Boy , " she said , "bad boy , give Uirdlo
marble ! "
Virginia Fair was always "Dlrdlo" in those
days.
She got the marble , but slio did not keep
It. Her brother was with her , a plump boy
In faultless knickerbockers , the pockets of
which bulged with the most wonderful mar
bles ever seen , i There was no caste among
the Comstock young ones nnd soon those
wonderful marbles were In n ring with many
moro plebeian ones and the pearl knicker
bockers and the madc-ovor trousers were being -
ing worn out at the knco together on the
gravel. The Fair boys bad their good
points , but they could not play marbles.
The bulging knickerbockers grew flaccid and
the ragged trousers fattened.
Mrs. Vandcrbllt-that-was-to-bo watched
the wreck of her brother's fortunes from her
seat on a quartz bowlder. Ho'tried to win
at "Boston" what ho lost at "fats , " but It
was a vain hope. At last Charlie Fair con
fessed himself "busted. " Then ho caught
sight of the big agate clutched In the chubby
fist.
"Gimme that tor , nirdlc , " he coaxed. "I'll
glvo It back. "
She yielded It without a word , and the
other boy put up against It n tale of "cln-
neys , " "pureys" and "portles" that was
wealth by Itself. Heforo the sun went down
the agate was lost to the Fair family , It
seemed , forever. Charllo drifted away to
get moro marbles and the successful gam
bler remained to gloat over the big agate.
Ho paid no attention to the forlorn llttie
llsuro on the rock mourning over her loss
until a tall shadow fell upon htm. It wan
Father Monogue , the Comstock priest ,
\\Uoso attention was attracted by the wallIng -
Ing of the daughter of his millionaire par
ishioner.
"Bad boy took Dlrdlo's tor , " she explained
through her tears , and then she flung her
self down on the gravel nnd ruined her
pretty dregs In nn abandon of woe. The
boy tried to mnko the priest understand.
Father Monoguo died a bishop years after ,
but ho was tiopelessly dense in regard to
TIIK WINGBD THEATER BONNET.
1 the rules of innrblcs nnd t'eld on to tliti
, ' boy's car. He Hnally up-ended him , nnd na
I a catnrnet cf mnrbli's fell the little Kin
, gathered thrm nil hers , her brother's and
1 the boy's original inpltnl--In her tiny petti-
] cont. nnd holding them up as n farmer's
wlfo holds eggs , she scampered off homo ns
fast ns tier fnt , pink legs would carry her.
The private school In the Fairs' yard WHS
also attended by n few of the mining super
intendents' children , nnd the young once
of Fred Trltlo , who afterward A-as governoi
of Arizona , were nlso among the lltllo Fait
I girls' first friends nnd schoolmates. The
j young pedagogue who taught In that school
eloped with the rich nnd beautiful mistress
of the mansion across It street , but , though
the scandal aliucst wilted the sagebrush on
j the Nevada hillsides , probably Mrs. Vatider-
bllt does not remember It. The pedagogue
by the way , Is n prominent minister In
New England.
This woman's house , just acress tde way
from the Fairs' , was n wooden palace , high
above the street. Leading down from It
were long ( lights of stairs and n banister
just made to slldo down. We used lo sneak
up those otnlrs , clamber n-straddlo of the
banister , let out n yell of defiance to the
Kdglnton family , who lived there , and to
boggan to the bottom llko moleors. Whether
the dnmngo to the Kdglnton varnish was
greater than that to juvenile clotMng is an
unsettled problem.
Ono day half n dozen of the unregcner-
atcs were enjoying the convenience. The
future Mrs. Vnndorbllt was among them ,
having given nurse or governess the slip.
The portly form of her mother hung over
the gate opposite.
"Uli-dlc ! " ( IllFlng Inflection. )
"Hlrdle , come here ! " ( Firmly. )
THE JERUSALEM CROSS.
"Birdie , come In this instant ! " ( Impera
tively. )
"Illrdlc , you'll catch It If you don't come
hero ! " ( Desperately. )
And still that precious baby girl straddled
the banister nnd shot down the incline ,
screaming with delight. Finally Tessie Fair
Mrs. Oelrlchs now ambushed the child
at the bottom and led her off shrieking.
Within half nn hour she was back on the
banister. Then out of the white Fair gate
swarmed Mrs. Fair and swooped down upon
her youngest , who , deplorable to tell , kicked
and screamed In her arms. Wo saw her
bcrno prisoner Into the school house nnd
walled awesomely for something dreadful.
It came ! A measured , regular tattoo , punc
tuated by repentant walls. Mrs. Fair's
wealth had not made her too proud to do
her own spanking.
KrlllN of KiHliIon.
Military effects decorate the yucnting nnd
cycling gowns this season.
Alpaca In the shades of dark blue , brown
and gray Is n popular material for traveling
dressca.
Decorated quills aie a striking feature in
millinery. They have blossomed out in polka
dots , golf sticks , tennis rac'fcts and all eorU
of suggestive designs.
Evening gowns in thin materials aio lav-
Ichly trimmed with wreaths and \ines of
HOWLTS made of quilled net or chllfon and
mixed with lace nppllque.
White gloves nro going out of fashion and
In their pUce we have the delicate tinted
shndcj of tan , cream , pink and tea color in
suede. Dark lan suede gloves are worn for
shopping.
Turbans mndo of glossy lacellko straw and
trimmed with violets and ruses are ono va
riety of headgear , while still another Is a
low-crowned broad-brimmed bat trimmed
with spring Ilowers and plaited laco.
A novel Idea for the brldosmalnd'a cos
tume Is a long tulle veil fastened at ono side
of the hair with n rosutlo of tulle and an
aigrette , or a bunch of flowers , presumably
violets , as violet bceins to bo a fashionable
color for weddings.
A fawn-colored English serge tailor Bklrt
worn with a gray and violet striped and
dotted tnffetn silk shirtwaist affords a dainty
contrast to its modernized Eton jacket of
ncrgo. This form of jacket Is not quite ns
- In effect as the styles with shorter
routs.
The newest chenille trimmings of lattice-
mttcrncd bands , ecrUIs , howknol deslgnu ,
itc. , are verj > attractive as well as becom-
ng. Lightweight fprlng and summer tailor
clothes are dotted with It ; silks and vell-
ngs , grenndlncs and nets , Btrlped or barred ,
with chenille lines of various widths.
liluck and whlto silk-warp veilings nnd j
) arcges have high-necked waists , fastened '
at the back with ullghtly full fronts laid In
Hngonal tucks. Hands of black lace inscr-
lou nro laid between cluster * of the tucks ,
iirmlng a striped effect on the ludlco , and
iiTtly elbow sleeves which are finished with
> lultcd black and whlto lace frills , laid onu
ibovo the other , the upper black lace ono
> elng slightly shorter than the whlto lace
rill nearest the arm.
The handsomest of the new sntln foulards
are striped with a line of heavier satin nnd
) olka-dottcd between the stripes. These nro
cry line in quality , but the designs lack
novelty under iho present craze for spotted
rfhrlcs , and purchasers of these soft , cling-
ng materials , who luok for something un-
ommon in style , pass them by for the quaint
vcnvos figured with small i'orslan devices
bowing a fine but brlgfit mvlango of rich
Oriental colom , on a ground of black , blue ,
green or brown.
lllack and whlto effects are evidently n
eaturo of dress not to bo overlooked tills
season. a something In that line Is brought
cut In nearly every gown. There nro pretty
braids for trimming In black and white mix-
turi's , whlto laces nm with a black thread ,
and black and whlto combinations of every
conceivable kind. Narrow black velvet rib-
bun , gathered on the edge of heavy cream
lace Insertion , is very effective , and tiny
Shapely Features
Unblemished Complexions.
Look into your mirror , examine closely all foatutcs of the face and
decide for yourself if they nre just what they should he. Are they
shapely , clearly outlined 'and symmetrical ? Com ] sirs one with the
i other. Do they harmonize ? Is there not ono that detracts from the
other , or destroys the beauty of the whole ? Go carefully ever the entire -
tire facial form. It will well repay for the time nnd trouble , as the study
will prove both interesting and instructive. _
i Is the skin wrinkled , ( labhy or baggy ? fiFJh S
1 Are the disfiguring lines deeply furrowed or
j simply the little creases tout lurk around the eyes
and mouth ? ' No
matter which , they
can be painlessly
removed and the
skin rendered smooth , firm nnd natural.
How about your ears ? Are they too large ,
too small , illshaped or deformed , or do they
standout like spreading sails ? If so , they
can be painlessly corrected and made to set gracefully to the head.
Docs your nose suit ? Is it too Itirge or bulbous ,
humped , crooked or Koman ? Is it broad , flat or
narrow ? Does it point up , point down , too long or W f I LK I'
too short ? Has it been urokcn ? Don't worry , wo
can remodel and transform it into a thing of beauty
and a joy forever.
How arc your eyes ? Arc the
lids drooping , squinting and
wrinkled , or puffy , flabby and baggy ? All these im
perfections can be speedily overcome and the eyes
rendered bright , sparkling and vvinningly expressive.
Anything wrong with your mouth ? Have you a
hair lip , drooping , rolling ordrawn
lips ? Is the curvature irregular or unnatural ? If
so , they can be corrected and a pleasing , attractive
expression imparted thereto.
The chin , neck and throat : What is wrong with
these ? Are they too fat , rolling , ( Tabby , baggy or
leathery ? They need not bother
you , as all of their imperfections
* /-J gvr i-59 can be easily corrected and rendered shapely , smooth
% P ? and white.
> * > fcjfrKv.ri : Do not overlook the blemishes. They cloud the
complexion and destroy the beauty of the whole coun
tenance. Nothing can be more embarrassing or annoy ,
ing than birth marks , scars , moles ,
warts , red veins , red nose , tattoo or powder marks ,
superfluous hair and all blemishes that disfigure ,
but they can be speedily and permanently removed ,
leaving no trace of their former existence.
Don't worry , we can help you. For the pur
pose of correcting all irregularities and deformities if
of the features and to remove all disfiguring blemishes
from the faceor body , by n painless , .simple method , Der
matologist John H. Woodbnry's Chief Now York Sur
geon will bent the St. Louis olllce Friday , Saturday and
Sunday , May "itli , ( itb and 7th , ami at the Chicago olllce
for ono week , fro in Monthly. May 8th , to Saturday , May
Ktlli , Inclusive , a nd any Information desired concerning
tlioso painless operations will bo gladly furnished by the
physicians in charge of thee olliccsvhlch are open every day from 0 to ( ! dur
ing Ilio year for free consultation and the treatment of all diseases of the skin ,
scalp , blood and nervous system. Don't delay ; write or call at once for full in
formation. John II. Woodbnry , 1(1. ( ! State street , Chicago ; ; ! OS Chemical build
ing , corner Klghth and Olive streets , St. Louis.
Anyone Can Have a Perfect Complexion Thousands of Ladies
Hove Their Complexions Beautified by the
MISSES BELL'S COMPLEXION TONIC.
The Misses licll's OVi oh rated Complexion Tonic must not bo confounded
with the numberless Imlins , creams , lotions , etc. , sold , but is In Itself a dis
tinct tonic for the skin. H Is not a comm-tic to cover up , but It removes the
blemishes entirely , and if applied as directed , it Is always sure in the re
moval of all diseases and dlscolorutions of the skin.
Until you try the Complexion Tonic yon cannot know the great improve
ment that can be made In your complexion. During the spring of the year-
is the'most favorable time to use the Misses Roll's Complexion Tonic , for it
saves the user the extreme annoyance of dlscoloriitions brought out by the
severe March and April winds and orradlcutos from the nkiu the impurities
thrown out by the blood. That the Complexion Tonic docs this there Is
none will deny , and this is the season its sale has reached such enormous
proportions all over the civilized world.
The Misses Hell's Complexion Tonic can be had from our local agent ,
whose name appears below , or will be sent securely packed In plain wrapper ,
from our Now York parlors , on receipt of price , one bottle $1.00 , or three
bottles ( some times required to clear the skin ) for $2.7r > .
THE EELL TOILET CO.
7H Fifth Avenue , New Viirk City.
THE ALSO If
[ MISSES INCLUDE
If A. fit. TOXIC CA 1 * I Ij - It KXO VA.
euros dandruff and prevents any 'or restoring prematurely gray locks
return of It ; stops that maddening to tliolr original color.
Helling of th Houlp and makes the It Is not a Ayu or a stain. It Is
liulr .itronp , poft and lustrous. It a colorless liquid that IM applied to
Is cKpcc'ully helpful lo persons the roots of OIL- hair and leaves no
who-o hair la thin , dry and llublo tell-tulu signs oi ) Lu ! > sculp or fore
to fall out. I'rlce , II.W a bottle. head. I'rlep , $1.50 a bottle.
VI ltd IX OfifVK SOAI' It A 31 It fi' WOO ft SOA1 *
made from olives. utiHCPnted. uped Is made from tljo pure oil of lambs'
uml rcrommeiidcd by HimMclbii , wool. It U healing ami gratifying
OlRa Netbcn-'ole , Minnie Maddern 'to ' tlm skin , keeping It nt nil times
flnkc. Kdouurd de Ki-szko and huti In a clean and healthy stato. This
dri'ds of oilier * , wliuxn letters ol Soup Is daintily scented and IH a
recommendation we have , t'nstir- wolrnmo aid to the tollotH or fan-
paf"ii'd for the complexion and skin , tldloiiri women. I'rlce , 25 cents per
i'rlce , W cents ; u citkcx for & ) cents. cuko , larsu four-ounco size.
SKIN FOOD
is a soft , creamy , exquisitely perfumed ointment , which helps thn action
of the tonic , and'in mild cases of roughness , redness , pimples , etc. , is n
cure In itself. It cli'iii-H the pores of the skin of all Impurities and feeds
it by building up the texture and making the llcsh beneath It solid and
Una. I'rlce , 73 cents per jar.
A trial Hlze sample of any one of ubove preparations
at our parlors In New York City ; or by mnll to any
address In plain wrapper upon receipt of JiJi cents in
stamps or sll ver to cover actual cost of postages and
packing.
Trial slx.u samples can be HOC tired from our New York olllco only.
Our agents will not supply them. Correspondence cordially Kollclted.
Vldress ,
Til 13 HHIb TOILKT CO. ,
7S Fifth Avenue , New York City.
Send for our new book , " .Secrets of Uoauty. " Free to any address.
KUHN & CGIM3PAE\3Y \ ,
ACSHVI'S. l.VUI AM ) IMM ( ; iAH STHICICTS ,
m
ruchea of black chiffon nnd not are also used
for this purpose.
I'mil n I ne I'rrnciiuilH ,
Mine. Loubet greatly resembles her friend.
Mine. Cnrnot , In her charitable tendencies.
She disposes of large sums among the poor
and Is u regular visitor at the hospitals.
Miss Elizabeth I'lanklngton of Milwaukee ,
daughter of the late John I'lanklugton , ban
made a gift of J100.000 for n Young Woman'H
Christian association homo In that city , to
bo built In memory of her father.
.Ml s Elizabeth Hrown. the rngllKh astro
nomical observer , who has Just died , observed
Koveral total eclipses of the sun , going In
18S7 to Klueshnm , near Moscow , In 1SU9 to
Trinidad and In IS'j'j to Vndbo , In Lapland.
Miss Helen Gould has been made an hon
orary member of the Cincinnati fire depart
ment. Perhaps the best way to show our
appreciation would be to give her the free
dom of lIio country at once. There is no
danger that she would abuse It.
When Mm. William K. Vnnderbllt , jr. , was
n small girl In Virginia City , Nov. , her
brothers , who were poor hands at marbles ,
would always call upon their ulster when
their fortunes grew low to redeem them
8ho was an expert player and never failed
to win back wlili interest all the marbles
that had been lost.
Anna Evrclnoff , the HuoBlan woman who
has been speaking In this country In behalf
of the disarmament conference , Is n person
of rank as well as culture. Her father , a
general of the Russian army , was governor
of the Imperial palace during the reign of
the present czar's grandfather , Alexander II
She Htudled at the University of Lolpslo
graduated In law and bus since given much
attention to judicial fctudlcu nnd history.
Miss Sarah Cooper Hewitt , daughter of the
famous Abrnm 8. Hewitt , bus been elected
school trustee In I'ompton township , Now
York. Miss Hewitt , besides holding the
position In society to which she IB entitled
Is an extremely busy person. She manages
a 2,000-ncro farm near Tuxedo. 8ho can
shoo her own borsr.-i nnd rldcH well. She
Is n practical road builder nnd has written
n book on the subject. She nlso manages
the restaurant In Cooper Union.
Cook's Imperial Chamjiagno Extra Dry for
the yacht , camping party , summer hotel ,
party , mountain , seashore or the jilc-