Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, March 05, 1899, Page 12, Image 12

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    THE OMAltA DA1LV BEE : STNDAY. 3UABC1I 5. 1800.
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SLMIMIH : coiii\ns AM >
Sllr Wlilir tin- Put oi ! < r
rioniKM-H mill runs.
NK\V YORK , March 2 InIcvv ot he
fact that this promises to bo a spring dressed
In the very brightest tints and n summer
to follow clad almost exclusively In white , it
will bo ns well to advlso the nnxlous In
favor of bntlsto nnd embroidered muslin ,
nnd above all speak a friendly word for whlto
Frftich flannel.
Datlslo Is ono of the few materials that
has nrvcr been vulgarised and In that fu
ture , delicious to contemplate , of blue sky ,
nrdent smiHhlno nnd gay gardens the lovo-
llofit batistes will predominate. Their soft.
unwrlnkllng quality Is what recommends
them especially to Iho now cut of skirt , nnd
made up over coaiso lawn that lias plenty ot
body they are nt once beautiful and verj
Inexpensive dresses , far moro fashionable
than any other eotton goods of this year.
If jou c n't afford a gray embroidered
muslin In your summer troilssenu then don't
betray your poverty by appearing at any ot
the fashionable resorts After great care
nnd forethought Iho manufacturers have
brought out a muslin that Is warranted to
remain crisp in spite of the seaside fog nod
LACE JACKET SKIRT MOHAIR. OVER
COLORED SLIP OR BLOUSE.
country dampness. They have woven a Ju
dicious amount of floe mohair wUh 1lio mus
lin and have produced an Ideal fabric In con
sequence. Instead of itho sharp , almost
stinging colors xiscd last season they have
< akon popular fancy at Its word nnd pro
duced the most variegated list of adorable
grays in their mohair muslins and then em
broidered on the crisp surface In white and
black.
No woman's heart but must yearn over a
counter full of ithcso beauties that nre
double widtti and cost from 50 cents to $1.25
a yard. They are meant for mako-up over
colored slips , of course , and the bust models
seen so far show skills cut almost tight to
the knees , bristling and billowing below with
n series of five to nlno small flounces below
that point. Amother commendable freak Is
that of edging muslin frills with a very nnr-
low gathered quilling of taffeta , both Its
edges frlngod.
Ail tce from I'nrlx.
l"rom Paris comes the advice to cense
fastening any skirts behind nnd as often ns
not to weai with muslin or cloth pouched
Inco blouses , buttoning up behind or < W the-
shoulder and under iilte nrm. Many women
nrti buying with their mohair-muslin
gowns enough of the goods to have n toque
mndo to match each costume , nnd they are
sitting up In the twisted muslin wings and
quills , colored In palo rose nnd wedgwood
blue nnd fastening all the itrlmmlng with
silvered or gilded skewers that the milliners
have jubt got In stock.
All SlUcr While.
But to go back to flannel embroidered
silver whlto flannel is quito the most modish
possibility for spring. Bridesmaids and oven
brides are going to wear It , and the reason
why Is plain enough , It 13 so brilliant nnd
becoming silver-white Is n whlto that hns
n sheeny suiface , like satin , nnd then on
this surface Is woven In crcnm whlto silk
nny form or ornament , from n polka dot
to wreaths of flowers. As a result wo
have n novlty that comes like the spangled
net In dress pieces , ready to put on n foun
dation and needing no decoration. Some of
thesa tints nro made up with oversklrts
falling In a scries of Columbine points upon
knee deep knlfu pleating ? and sometimes
the skirt scums to open all the way from
hip to foot by menns of a series of charm
ing little buttons.
Quite as handsome nnd fresh to the oya
are the spring cloth dresses , lavishly
adorned with silk fringe Now from time
to time thcie hns been talk nnd speculation
about filngc , but at the present moment
It has anived and will rrako Its presence
ornamentally felt In the Easter dress pa
rades , Fringe flounces are the desire of
oveiy woman s heart. Some hoarding souls
have rich old filnges twenty years old to
bilng foith fioni trunks and linen wrap
pings and llnunt in their friends' envious
faces. These flowers run from three Inches
to three feet In depth , with the tasselly
finish to the open meshed net poitlon quite
deep ,
' A ehodo of willow or stem green Henrietta
cloth , ollk poplin , or rich molinii Is most
npprovedly contiasted with black or a shndu
of green so deup It Is termed dcpth-of-tho-
forest green and hero U where the fringe
comes In. You have a plain , slightly trained
Bklrt and jou lay jour deep or narrow
flounce around It in two rows from the
knees down , or lay on in points. Over
jour green waist jou place your fringe In
a pouched front from the buat down , let
ting the tassels fall out about jour hips ,
and thus nnnyed you will get jour duo
Dyspepsia Cure.
Digests what you eat.
Itartlflclallydtgoststhofooaandalda
Nature in strengthening and rcccm-
Btructlnffthe exhausted dlcestlvo or'
kfans. It Is thelatestdlscovorcd digest-
not and tonic. No other pioparatlon
can approach it in elllciency. It in-
Btantly relives and permanently ciirea
Dyspepsia , Indication , Heartburn ,
Flatulence , Sour Stomach , Nausea.
Sickneadache.Gafitralgla.Cramps.and .
all other results of linper/ect digestion. i
Prepared by E. C , D Wltt A Co. , Chicago-
nttc.itlon and admiration from your own
observing sex
: \CMI 'loKKory for turning- .
Mnko jour way Into the sanctum of nny
progressive modlsto nnd you will find her
garnlshlnz lovely silk nnd satin evening
gowns with whlto or colored fringe , In the
incoh of which penrls nnd spnngles are
caiicnt.
With these cvcnlnc suits , by the way ,
pretty fans nro carried that only hnvo flvo
slender sticks nnd Inhtead of spreading Into
a ecml-clrclc ns the conventional fans do ,
these cx.iand to only nbout one-fourth the
diameter of a circle. Their four ribs nplcco
nro of wood or penrl , but most clegnntly of
rich or dark tortoise shell , very highly
polished , nnd slender cord , overlaid with
bullion or gilded Inco. They call these the
Princess Jlcttornlch fans , and for showy
beauty they qulto outdo anything ever seen
before. In consequence of the gold work on
the gntizo these fans nro carried , when not
In actunl use , In pretty painted kid pro
tectors
Ilesldcs her fnn cvory woman In the even
ing wears , thrust half way under iho top
edge of her decollete bodice , a single rose
bud , so put together that It requires a keen
eye to detect Its ellken artificiality The bud
Is white , red , jellow , or pale pink , nnd ap
pears ns though fallen fiom some bouquet ,
lu reality It Is a tiny sachet , for all thu rose
colors nro now In the height of fashion , nnd
this smnll , close folded bud against the
wearer's warm flesh gives out n subtle sweet
aioma. JIAUY DEAN.
1'IIOI-nSSIU.NAIj CAT-WASIIEIl.
mill I'l iilllablo lliisIiiiNn Mnii-
iiK 'il l > > 11 .NLM"lorlc AVoiniiii.
She Is a joung gltl , not yet 18 , and gave
ttio following account of her work.
"You won't have any trouble nbout spell
ing my name , It's Smith Virginia Smith.
I have alwnjs been especially fond of cats
and had a lot of 'em ns pets since I was a
babj. My mother died ten jeara ago and
my father died last year. I being the oldest ,
thcro are two joutiger than me , nnd there
being no monej to fall back on , 1 knew I
had to earn n flvlng or starve. I started
out to hunt work In an ofllce. I tramped
for a week without getting so much as a
promise , so jou may guess how dscouiagcd
I was when Sunday came. Hut ns there was
nothing else to do I took my two jounger
sisters OIK ? lb 10 and the other 12 jenrs old
for n walk in the park.
"Uuring our walk wo saw n cnt being
taken for na airing In a doll carriage by a
stylishly dresbcd maid. It was a fine An
gora , but about the dirtiest white cat I over
saw. It hadn't been very well It seems and
not being allowed out of doors to loll on the
grass , had no means of ke&plng Itsert clsan.
I know at once what was the matter and I
said to tha girl :
" 'Why don't you wash that cat ? It would
get vvell veiy much quicker and bo a different
looking animal. '
"Sho said the cat fought so that no one
dared tub It. Well , I had a little chat with
the girl while I vvos petting pussy nnd
learned the name and address of her mis
tress. The next morning bright and early
I rang that door bofl and scot up my card
to the mstress. When she came down I ex
plained my circumstances nnd asked per
mission to wash the cnt She vsas astonished ,
but granted my request and paid me well
lor It.
"That was the beginning , now I have as
many engagements ns I can attend to. I
go to the homes of my 'clients , ' I call them ,
nnd glvo them a bath nnd rubbing down
once every two weeks. That Is often enough
for a healthy cat. I know it Is generally
believed th.it cats keep themselves clean ,
but it is like n great many other things
generally believed , It Is n mistake , for
there Is the greatest difference in the world
between the fur of a cnt allowed to care
for Us own coat and ono receiving tbo
proper attention. It Is longer , flner , moro
glossy and ten times moro soft.
"I always use three wateis , In a vessel
plenty largo enough to Immerse the cat ,
all three baths comfortably warm. In the
llrst water I put a few drops of ammonln ,
then taking the cat in my lap on my rubber
apion thoioughly scap her all over with nnj
good soap Then I put her In the water and
give her bath number one. From that 1
give her rinsings in two clear baths , the
water of both about the same temperature
as the first. If slie Is strong I rub her dry ,
pet her a little and turn her loose. I3ut If
she is delicnto or qulto young I not only rub
her dry , but give her a saucer of wnrm
milk nnd then put her tu her hnsket nnd
cover her up for a nap. Of course since
taking this up as a means of earning my
own nnd my sister's living I have Informed
myself thoroughly on the subject , that Is ,
I have learned nil nbout cats , their habits
and their ailments , so whenever I have n
sick cat or a puny cat they don't have to
go to n doctor.
"Perhaps you will bo Interested to know
that nt the recent cnt show every Now York
cnt , with ono exception , that received n
prbe or honorable mention was n 'client'
of mine.-
A Jinviiin : niuni.i : or noi.ii.
Mr. Hurry l'n > no \Vliltm-j'N llcniitirul
( ilft iii HU Wife.
Young Mrs Harry 1'nyno Whitney of
New York has created n now fashion.
Her wonderful girdle Is the most novel
piece of jewelry which hns ever been Been
In New Yoik. Though In price It repre
sents a fortune , yet Its chief novelty lies
In the fnet that It is n glrdlo and dress
trimming combined. The glidlo came from
Europe and has but recently been presented
to Mrs Whitney bj her husband. It Is of
repousse gold , with nine long dangling
chains holding In their meshes rare nnd
costly gems , Ono charm of the glrdlo Is
that It fits Mrs. Whitney's slender figure
as If It were mndo of glistening satin In
stead of gleaming gold.
The glrdlo is 'cut In points nt the top and
bottom and it Is so deep that It forms a per
fect corselet At the sides It Is n trlfla
lower than In the front The fastening is nt
the left side , but it Is Invisible
This corselet of gold shows a wonderfully
beautiful raised dralgu of orchids and
leaves most exquisitely wrought Alone It
would bo well worth coveting But In Its
dangling chains lies its special novelty.
From each point of the glrdlo ncross the
front nnd at the sides a chain of jewels
U suspended. These chains -vary In length ,
the longest one falling from the center
point , the shorter ones at the sides. Each
chain la finished with n gold knob and a
tassel of threads of gold. And the gold
chains hold thousands of dollars' worth of
rare gems. The center chain Is studded
with whole pearls of most beautiful luster ,
the largest ones set townrd the top. On
one eldo of the chain of pearls is a string
ot turquoUes ; on the other sapphires The
jewels are Bet at short spaces apart. From
the other chains gleams a variety of gems.
One of the shorter chains la studded with
five Jewels , n ruby , a diamond , emerald ,
opal and sapphire. The chains have the
effect of a wonderful scintillating Jeweled
fringe. The only tirno that tbo " 400" had
an opportunity to see this wonderful glrdlo
wus ono night nt the opera Just before
Mr * . Whitney started for the south. Bha
wore It on that occasion with n simple gown
of white Ellk mull over whlto silk. The
Jeweled chain formed the trimming for the
very effective skirt This dcml-trnln skirt
wns made with four iiiflles of the silk mull ,
each one finished with n frill of real lace
and bended with a bit of a fluting of palo
1 blue silk
THU M'tTI.U MCHTHOl SU OIIII , .
Day mill Mttlit Slit- . .MMIIJFIViicn u
( > ll < OlllK ( til I'llSNllIK SlllIN ,
The sailors nnd shlpmen who pass up nnd
down the Savnnnnh river between Savan
nah nnd the sea know her ns "tho little
lighthouse girl " To Miss Florence Martus ,
for AO she is , the ships that pass In the night
aio the same ns those that pass by ilny.
Night or dnj , It makes no difference , with
lantern or handkerchief nho Is nlwnja there
to greet the parsing crnft Uown on Elba
lalnnd , n narrow , marshy wn .to . on the
southern bink of the Snvnunah liter , ten
miles below the city , with her brother , the
lighthouse keeper , nnd her mother , lives
this "little lighthouse girl , " for BO she Is
spoken of by Bailers , passengers nnd river
men. A thousand vessels piss In nnd out
the Savannah liver every jear , Savnnnnh's
small craft make twice as many trips be
tween the city nnd the sen , passing alwaja
the homo of Iho lighthouse girl , and never
ono goes by but there is n wuvlug nf gicet-
Ing fiom the modest piarza of the little
Island home ; a flag of white by dny nnd ix
lantern of whlto bj night
It makes no dlllcrenco what the hour
of the night , Miss IMaitus Is alwnjs there
with her welcoming signal to Incoming nnd
outgoing vessels. The cottage on Elba Isl
and Is a noted landmark because of the
greeting that always awaits there the pissIng -
Ing vessel. Miss Mnrtus , this ardent friend
of the mnrlners In nnd out the Savannah
river , Is n slstor of the keeper of the Elba
SPRING HAT.
Island range lights , ono of 'which ' towers
above his humble but hoine-llko cottage on
the ease of the mnrshy Island. Brother
and sister live with their mother in this
lonely marsh Island homo , an Island which
has no other inhabitants except the fiddlers
which crawl upon the shore nnd the shell
fish which Inhabit the brackish water. Miss
Martus was born in Tort Pulaski , sixteen
miles down the river , on Cockspur Island ,
to which her father. Sergeant John H Mnr-
tus of the United Stntcs aimy , was sent
from Buffalo , N. Y , shortly after the war.
Trom that period he had charge of Fort
Pulaski as ordnance bergeant until the time
of his death in 188o George W Marlus hns
been In the lighthouse service since 1S77 ,
and about the time of his father's death ho
wns sent to tnko charge of the Elba island
range lights With her father mother and
brother the little lighthouse girl has lived'
on the river therefore , practicnllj without
exception , all her life The inmo , "little
lighthouse gill , " Is not n misnomer , for she
Is smnll In stature und plensnnt to meet.
"Why do I wave nil passing shins' " she
sajs. "H Is because they are my friends ,
they nre almost my only friends. I love to
see them come and go , nnd when they go I
nlwnys hope nnd pray for their safe return.
I am afraid sometimes they get by mo with
out my knowing it , perhaps In the mlddlo
of the night But I nm nlwajs on the look
out and I try not to let ono pass without
waving my handkerchief or lantern. I nl
wnys think of thorn nnd fool for them nnd
I enjoy the salutes they sometimes give as
I do a visit from n filend "
"And you have been gieetlng passing ves
sels for eleven joars ? "
"Yes , wo have lived hero all that time ,
nnd ever Binco I have been watching for
passing vessels I love to HCO them eomo
nnd go nnd I had rather misH part ot my
sleep than to have ono go by unnoticed. "
The liver men who know her always saInte -
Into her. Not Infrequently the big ocean
steamers f going In nnd out ef the rivet ,
fI
though I the captain who ban control of the
(
whlstln IB busy piloting his vessel through
the tortuous channel , paused to acknowledge
with three deep blasts the bright and wol-
eomo signal of the lighthouse girl Captains
of baiks nnd schooners or their mates will
leave duty for n monunt nnd go to the stein
In dip the flag , and these salutes are to Miss
Maitus her llfo and Inspiration It Is the
only company which her lonely llfo hns bo-
jond that of her home
ACJH POIl ( 'HMD'S HAUTS.
iila AVlicelor \ \ llcov on 1lio Proper
Thup nf I < lfIN
Ella Wheeler Wllcox hns been airing heJ
\lows on the proper age for women to feel
the darts of Cupid's arrows. She snjs
"When wo are naked 'at what ngo is a
woman the most beautiful , ' or 'nt whnt nge
does a woman love moro ardently , ' It Is nee-
cssaiy to consider the climate and the tjp
before replying.
"Climate exerts n great influence on the
phjstque , the morals , the mind nnd the emo-
'ticins ' Uulcfl which apply to the women ot
St Petersburg or for Norwny do not apply
to tlio women of Italy or Spain or southern
France
"However , ns the American woman seems
to bo the dominant female of the world to
day , It Is safe to make one' * deductions from
thnt tjpe.
"Americans nro n , mixture of many na
tionalities nnd Hie pecullnrltles of every liv
ing rnco nro to bo found cropping out nmong
our American people. The typical American
girl Is , in truth , phjslcnlly nnd mentally a
composite photograph ot the many vnrjlng
nationalities which hnve produced her ,
"Sho often blooms Into prcmnutro joung
womanhood nnd falls In love before she
makes her 'tccna , ' or Immediately after
ward. This Is an Inheritance from her trop
ical ancestors , hut where the girl of tropics
buds , blooms , fndcs nnd becomes an old
women before 20 , our American girl keeps
In a stnte of perpetual bloom until 40 , and
sometimes later.
"Not long ago a v Ision of feminine beauty
and chaitn captured n whole army post and
fnsclunlod every man , from the commnndltiB
officer down to the pi hates. Whereupon the
vvlvw , slbters and sweethearts ot the post
set nbout the feminine , If not estimable task ,
of looking up the charmer's pant life , and
thocmly fact which gave them especial pleas
ure was that of discovering her to bo half
.1 hundred jears old , despite her beauty of
fnco and form.
"When the American clrl In her teens
falls lu love , however well developed her
physical charms may be , her powers of lov
ing are jet Immature. There Is scarcely
ono case In ono hundred which can bo found
to dlrprovo this statement.
"A , jounc girl Is fascinated by a mnn of
fnshlon. by n mustache , by n flno dancer ,
and she allows her sentiment to dominate
her snod FOPEO. Oftentimes she Is swept
nwny by the eloquent pleadings of a fluent
tongue nnd speaking ejes , nnd she mistakes
her soul of being loved for the love of a
lover. After the hcnejmoon is over and "
the realities of llfo begin to engage the at-
tontlon of both paitles the wife sees the man ,
ns ho Is a mcro boy often , who save in Iho
role of Romeo , Is utterly devoid of Interest
or nttractlon and who is qulto her Inferior
In every respect.
"It is then the tragedy of her llfo begins
for her.
"A iwoman of 28 or 32 Judges men from an
entirely diffeicnt standpoint , and Is capable
of a depth of feeling wholly unknown to the
girl of 18 or 20. Her nature Is riper , her
emotions moro intense , her Judgments moro
mature
"An old lady ot 70 told mo she had been
'
three times married She was a stranger to
mo nnd seemed giently surprised when I re
marked. "And you loved jour second hus
band best of the three ? "
" 'Yes , ' she said , 'but how did jou know ? '
"I explained that my conclusion wns
formed on general principles The woman
who has been married three times usually
begins earlj too early to know what real
love Is. Hoi choice Is usually QUO of caprice
or accident.
"Her second marriage would under ordin
ary circumstances occur in her 30's and It
would be a marriage based on strong mag
netic nttiaction. The third husband would
moro than likely be selected merely as a
companion for her declining jeara ono to
whom she gave respect and nffectlou , but
not nrdent love
"Tho woman confessed my estimate to bo
cutirelj conect in her case , nnd I have no
doubt it Is a safe summary of all three-ply
married lives.
JIISIIAMJ RUAltVVI'KCD.
Itachelor Life ] "orliltlil liy IIMlu
Slum.
There Is ono country in the world where
nil of the women , no matter how plain they
may be , can. . be certain of securing husbands
In fact this IB guaranteed to them by law.
This country , whore none need remain In
single blessedness , is Slam. There every
woman who hns reached a certain age with
out finding a. husband can , If she will onlj
express the wish , be registered as otic of the
"joung daughters of the king , " that Is , eho
vvllr be placed under royal protection and
the king must provide her with a husbind.
This duty is discharged very simply. If any
male Siamese commits a cilmo , or even is
guilty of a misdemeanor , ho Is neither lined
nor sent to pilson , but Is condemned to
marry ono of the women ortlclally under the :
protection of the king. If their violation ot
Inw hns not been verj serious they are per :
mitted to make n selection fiom among ,
these "rojnl daughters , " but If the crime
has been a grave one the malefactoi Is compelled -
polled to marry that ono se.ectcd by the ;
court , and of course she IB the ugliest or „
worst tempeied of them all. Owing to Bt Bv ,
Ingenious system no woman In Slam need t :
go through the world unmnrilcd , but perhaps
some of tlio women from New England nnd
others would prefer not to marry under
conditions such as these.
:
JtlJIiS OF I'UOI'OHTIOJf.
T 'H < H ( lint I'liMi' Wliutlii'r I'lRiire IN
S > mined li'iil.
The woman who wishes to nscortnln "
whether she Is n poifect physical specimen
of her sex will do well to heed the follow
ing pioportlons.
First , ns to height , tnates , differ , hut the ;
Medlccan Venus Is flvo feet flvo Inches In
height , nnd this Is held by many bculptors
nnd artists to bo the most ndmlrahlo stature
for a woman. For a woman of tlvo feet
flvo Inches 138 pounds Is the proper weight , ' | ,
nnd If she bo well formed she can stand antl
other ten pounds without greatly show
ing It
When the arms nro extended she should
measure from tip of middle finger to tip
of mlddlo finger Just five feet flvo Inches
exactly her own height The length of her
hand should bo just n tenth ot that , ot her
foot just n seventh , nnd the diameter ot her
chest a fifth 1'rom the thighs to the ground
she should measure Just whnt she measures
from the thighs to the top of her head , snjs
Woman's Life. The knee should come ex
actly midway between the thigh and the
heelTho
The distance from the elbow to the mld
dlo finger should bo the same as the dis
tance from the elbow to the mlddlo of the
chest. From the top ot the bend to the
chin should be Just the length of the foot ,
nnd theie should be the same distance be
tween the chin and the nrmplts. A woman
of this height should mcaauto twctitj-four
Inches nbout the wnlst nnd thirty-four Inches
nbout the bust If measured under the arms ,
nnd fortj-three Inches If over them
The upper nrm should bo thirteen Inches
round nnd the wrist six inches. The cnlf
of the leg should bo fourteen nnd n halt
Inches round , the thigh twenty-flvo Inches
nnd the nnkle eight Inches. Thcro Is nn-
other sjstem of mcnsuremonls , which savs
that the distance twice around the thumb
should go onro nround the wrist , twice
nround the wilst once nround the throat ;
twice nround the throat once nround the
wnlst , nnd so on ; hut the flr&t nro the
stnndnrds used by sculptors , who have
gnincd them by measurements of the
Greek statues
TrlllM of I'liMlilon.
Tulle IB nn Impoitnnt feature of all spring
millinery.
Sashes of lace , preferably some heirloom ,
nro worn with evening gowns.
Mnuvc , pnlo blue and palo yellow mus
lin , with Insertions of ivory Maltese lace ,
make dnlnty blouses.
Jet Is ngnln much In fnvor nmong spring
trimmings When used on decollete wnlsts
It Is framed In white tulle.
The very newest kind of chiffon Is pHltcd
In many directions nnd hns n curious molro
effect. In dull black It Is ono of the softest
nnd piettlcst of mourning nmtcrlnls
There nro Indications that the plain or
simply rolled collar will reign In the im-
medlnto future nnd lace and chiffon cars
nnd frills will be abolished from the nape of
the ' neck
Kid cloth Is the name of n new fabric
which } looks not unlike the surfnco of n suede
glove. It adapts Itself admirably to the
lines 1i 1 of the figure , nu Important requisite
now i , and is newer oven than satin cloth.
A modish hat has aa Its foundation green
moss with roses nnd rosebuds and green
"leaves which appear to grow up naturally
: from the crown 'Iho idea Is quaint nnd the
hat , which Is small , sits well off from the
face. j
face.Tho
The ribbon makers are showing what they
can do this spilng foi theii products have
never been lovllcr Embroidered nnd painted
ribbons are the latest wrinkle and the
shirred ribbons mnko very stjllsh tilm-
mlngs for gowns of thin cotton material.
Now domestic surahs nro In stnndnrd
twills that wear admirably , appearing on all
the latest spring shades India and China
silks aio shown in great inrioty , but the
twilled surfaces are HKely to be tbo most
popular.
Cyrano red has lost favor and Its plaeo
Is tnken by new shndes cnlled ponceau
d'Espagne ( Spanish poppj ) , the billliant dje
called Roman rod and a handsome English
IOQUE OF SPANGLED TULLE AND
ROSCS.
Mirrant rod. These colors will be uted both
is dress accessories and lu mllllnerj.
A silk petticoat , much decorated on the
ewer half , with full corded frills and
lounces , is now an actual necessity , since
he clinging diess skirts , made without
itlffncsiS , require this extra fullness beneath
o give them the proper outward Jlaro from
ho knees down.
It Is quite the mode now to have a dlffer-
3nt effect on either shoulder , a flat Insor-
lon-trlmmpd band of velvet or jew ell-
; lmp on one and on the other n tinlllus
ipray of roses or a knot of upstanding vol-
et or satin libbon or a cluster of ostrich
lps.
lps.Some
Some of the novelties nmong French pop-
Ins nro slightly cieped In their weaving
mil have cros&bais of gay color , as for ox-
imple , eieped ground of briar loses , pink
ontscd with russet nnd mignonette green ,
rho prettiest effect In these goods Is Im-
mrted by small silk dots amid the dark
Tinkled cords of the groundwork.
The son of the great Worth of Paris ,
iftcr a calculation of the amount spent In
"rnnco upon ladles' dresseb , estimates the
iverogo jearly expenditures for gowns nnd "
utilities nt the sum of 1200,000,000 Fifty
nllllona of this IH paid by Amorleaii , En-
llsh and Russian women. This recalls
ho fact that It wns the Fiench diessmnkcis
iho first denied the reports that France was
infrlcmlly to the United Stairs during the
arlj dajs of the war with Spain
Diagonal fabrics for spring mo set forth
n nil possible variations In some cases
lie diagonal stripes are fanned liy thick
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THE TRUTH ,
ABOUT INHALATION
Why This Method of Treatmeitf
Has Become a Craze With
the People.
USED FOR YEARS WITHOUT SUCCESS
Au Explanation of the Wonderful Results Now
Obtained.
It Is astonishing to see what n tremendous hold this now crnzo for rcmodloa , whlob
nro ndvortleed to cure by Inhalation , hns upon the general public. It IB estimated that
over four million people nro todaj using those treatments In the United States alone ,
and there are one-third of them , nt least , who cannot explain why. They simply know
that almost everj ndvortlslng cntnrrh pe chtllst nnd doctor In the country have all at
once thrown nslde the treatments and curei which they hnvo claimed so much for
during the past tun ycnrs , nnd me now advocating n now one. That Is enough evi
dence to them that some new nnd wondoiful discovery hns been mndo In the method of
treating catanh , bionchllls , pneumonia nnd consumption , nnd this Is true It cures by
Inhalation , this much they see nnd benr on every sldd. but TV hat It is that cures bj In-
hulntlou , they are entirely Ignorant of Wo hope that the following explanation will bo
rend by every sufferer of these dlsenses In the countrjns It will save them a great deal
ot monej and perhaps their life
The word "Inhalation" does not menu a medicine or cure but n method by which
the euro Is cnirled to the diseased pnrts It has been known for jeans that the only
way by which diseases of the lesplrntorj 01 gnns could bo reached was through the nlr
wo breathe , nnd dry nlr tit that , as moist sprajs , vapors , atomlzcis or douches are not
allowed by nature to cntci the bronchial tubes und lungs. As no Urj nlr germlcldo had
then been found , all cffc rts to cuie by Inhalation failed , oven now the only cause of
the success of n cure by "inhalation" Is due to the discovery of n perfectly dry air
germlcldo called "Hjomel " This germicide hns proven to be ono which cun bo cnrrled
to the remotest parts of the hcnd , throat and lungs In the nlr wo brentho , ( the only
method of reaching them ) -\vhoro \ It destrojs nt once the bacilli of all respiratory dis
eases There Is but ono such known , and every ounce of this Is owned and con
trolled by The 11 T. IJooth Company No other manufacturer or advertising doctor can
obtain It "Hyomel is the remedy which cures by 'Inhnlntlon ' " There is no other dry
ulr germicide , ivvhlch can bo Inhaled Most vapors may bo taken into the mouth and
exhaled through the nose , as they nlwnys hnvo been , but cnnnot too drnwn Into the
bronchial tubes nmd lungs by Inhalation Knowing this , why experiment with old Inhal
ers nnd old remedies , when the one which has brought about this crnzo by Its won
derful cures cnn be obtained nt jour druggists. Not only this , it Is guaranteed to euro
or money refunded.
J3very 13ottla of MyoniGi is Guaranteed.
Prices Trial Outfit , 25c , Regular Outfit , $1.00 ; Extra Mottles , 60o. Hjomel Halm ,
25c. Hjomel Guaranteed Djspepsln Cure , COc. All druggists , or sent by mall. Send
for Free Folder and Story of Hyomel. J
It. T. HOOTH CO. , Auditorium Bltlg. , ClilcaffO.
*
TL
but narrow tufted lines ; In others there nro
two or three colors on a soft , bourctte-liko
ground on which silky cheulllo threads add
to the elTect in the form of short tendrilft
branching out from the diagonal lines. In
checked goods the prcttj shaded effects differ
from those worn last spilng in so far as the
lines nre finer nnd run diagonally In both
directions forming small check patterns.
Pt-TMOIinlH.
Mrs George Vnnderbllt is the only woman
In the world who owns a string of rubles.
Doubtless the Keeps n good strong string
attached to them in order to enjoy such n
distinction.
In the city of beautiful gowns , Vienna ,
Miss darn Clemens , daughter of the hu
morist , MnrK Twain , is culthnting aolco
Bald to be unusually sweet and attractive ,
with the intention of going on the concert
stngc.
Worcester , Mass , has n "Widow's He-
: reat , " in which six elderly widows live
liappily together. The eldest widow is Mrs.
Eliza Parkei , 91 jears old , nnd the next ,
Mrs Susan S. nrldgham , SS. The "reticat"
is simply n pleasant boarding house kept by
Mrs. Lucy M. Underwood. Mrs Under
wood Is a widow and two of her sisters ,
widows , also Iho with her.
Miss Chnrlotto Wilkinson of Syracuse ,
secrctarj' of the Nntlonal League of Asso
ciations of Working Girls' clubs , has - visited
ited over sixty clubs In all parts of the
country binco she went into otilce last Oc
tober. She is alho editor of the Club
Woiker , the official organ of the league ,
which appears bl-monthlj' . She has three
assistants In her editorial woik , who live ,
respecthelj. In New York , Daltlmoio nnd
Philadelphia
Miss Jennie Wilde of New Orleans Is a
clever little southern woman who has charge
of the Comus Day iparado of the Mnrdl
Gran festlvnl. During the whole year she
devotes herself to making preparations for
this ono day nnd the floats , costumes nnd
everything pertaining to It aio designed by
her and painted first In water color. Sbo
decides upon the general scheme of the
parade and then studies It to make It chro
nologically and ai tlsllcally correct.
The best thing they seem to have done
nt the 1S9S annual meeting of the Congress
of Mothois was to make a match. At this
last meeting one of the bpeakirs VUIH Mrs.
Dubols , wife of c\-Senatoi Dubols. Coming
to the congress in 1898. the present Mrs
Dubols met the ex-senator , whom the has
since man led That is quick work and If
the congicss Is going to continue its work
nlong such piactlcal lines there Is no doubt
hut Its membership list will bo largely In-
cieased
Oftentimes curiosity Is nrouscd because of
the fast friendship which has always ix-
Isted between Mis. Ulysses S. Grant and
Mrs Jefferson Divls. It Is accounted for in
this way , Long before the civil wnr , when
Giant was stntioned with his regiment In
the far northwest , charges were preferred
ngalnst him and were reviewed by Davis ,
who was then secretary of war. Ho took
the joung ofllcer's 1 > ait and dismissed the
charges with n gentle reprlmnnd. "The pi-
" '
font "man of Galena" ne'vcr forgot this ;
neither has his widow
Illinois women nto disturbed over the
"fnco nnd flume" bill which was prcFcnted
to the Fourteenth Dlstilct Fcdeintlon of
Women's Clubs of Illinois last full by
Mrs I K II. I'm/or nnd has been re
cently Indorsed The bill Is to prevent the
UBO of icprosentntlons of woman's face or
figure for mUurtlblng purposes. The club
women do not really object to the woman
appearing aa suitably clad , hut the troitblu
Is that in a bill to bo presented to the leg
islature It Is Impossible to particularly nnd
clean sweep 1ms to bo made This bill , If
passed , will drlvo out of business nil the
prcttj , pink cheeked , faultlessly colffurcd ,
mall-wnlsted creatures of wax which
idorn the shop windows nnd It IB felt by the
tvomcn who hnvo not indniseil the bill that
hls will spoil half the fun of shopping Mrs.
Pra/er's picture shows her to bo nn ox-
ccdlngly Httrattlvo looking woman.
Mr Moody has been overywiiero henrtlly
Aelcomcd on the the I'aellle const with his
ivcngcllstlo Inbors.
The Now Yoik Labor bureau of the Salva-
lon Army recorded during the ye.ir of 18&S
1,033 applicants for work and succacdcd In
hiding positions for 1,657 persons
Father Judge , the Catholic priest nho re-
ontly died in Daw son City wns one of the
Iret missionaries In the Klondike , built u
hnrch and hospital In Daw son City nnd
icted thcro as preacher , doctor , uurso nnd
ook
The King's Daughters have contributed
leaily $7,000 for the erection of a cottage at
Ulantu university fully equipped for the In-
itructlon of the women In domestic science.
Tlu American board closed the flvo mcnths
Us ( Ideal jcnr with a record of receipts
$205,010 a loss of $50,000 compared with
he record of the same time last jear. The
loorease lu wholly In legacies.
It Is officially announced that 1'opo Leo
v'lll has called a council of all the bl bops
nd archbishops of South and Central Ainer-
to meet this year in Homo to consider
Interests of the Catholic church In these
ountrh'S
Hooker T Washington in ono of his recent
Idrinsea said "Our rote Is In too big a $
lurry. The preachers want the title of P V ,
before they know dlvlnltj- . Some -vant to
tnko Latin and Greek who do not know the
personal pronoun In English. "
Among the Institutions for popular educa
tion contioiled and supported by the Society
of Friends nro Hnverford college , 13ryn Mawr
college , ono In Wichita , Kun , and Poim college -
lego in Iowa. The Friends deseivo much
credit for their Interest In education.
Prof. Horatio W. Parker , head of
the musical department nt Yale , has raised a
storm of discussion by a paper ho rend In
Boston In which ho enld that much of the
music In the Episcopalinn hymn book was
light nnd frivolous and unsulted ror the
purpose for which U was Intended.
Three women of high rank , ono of whom is
the daughter of the archduchess of Tuscauy ,
have decided to found In Berlin a now ro-
llgtous order for wonien , which will be called
the Congregation of the Sisters of St. Joseph.
These future nuns lutond to devote thein
selves specially to the women nndl girls em
ployed in commerce anil Industry in Berlin.
A western churchman once nsked the Into
Bishop Williams of Connecticut what th
latter considered the best bit of work ho had
done in that state during his long episcopate
there "Well , " the venerable bishop replied ,
"perhaps the best work I did for the diocese ,
nnd for the church ns well , was to Keep a
number of men out of the ministry. "
The Church Standard of Philadelphia , de-
rla/res / that the "Church of England has sel
dom been In greater danger than at this mo
ment and that the hope of peace Is ended A
few agitators are plunging the church Into
revolution. Disestablishment , which had nl-
most been forgotten , la now nearer than over
und disestablishment means a largo measura
of dlsendowmcnt. "
It is stated that the 60,000 Syro-Arablnns
in this country nnd Canada are not united
In their religious beliefs. The "Holy Or
thodox Catholic Apostolic Church" of the
East numbers about 20,000 They have two
churches In this country ono In Gnlveston ,
Tex. , nnd ono In Now York with two *
priests. They nre under the jurisdiction v
a Russian bishop.
Speaking of old bibles , M Siebhart of Marquette -
quette , Nob. , reports that ho has ono
"pilntod ! n 1550 and written by Dr. Martin
Luthor. It is a German bible , about elght-
een Inches long by fourteen wllo nnd nix
Inches thick. It has wooden lids covert" !
with heavy leather nnd bound with ropl L.
Luther was born November 10 , 14M , nntfl
died February 15 , 1D-1C.
The communicants in the Episcopal the
Established Church of England are officially
given as follows : 1,800,030. The member
ship of the free churches Is given as 1,897-
175. Of the latter the flvo Methodist bodies
number 991,250 ; Congrogatlonnllsts , 415,072 ;
Baptists , 330,518 , Presbyterians , 71,444. Tha
Established church gained last year 45,708 ;
the free churches , -17,520' .
Ono hundred and two churches , at a cost
of $123C73 , have been aided during the Jasl
year by the Congregational Church Bulldlua
society ; $70,200 was loaned to forty-two
churches and $28 , J5 was loaned to flfty-
flevon churches cti parsonages. Grants wcro
mndo to eighty-three churches , amounting
to $17,414. Of 169 churches aided , nil but
twenty-two t vvero weattof Ohio.
A largo part of the estate of Washington
G. Benedict , the rcnl estate nnd olectrlo
railroad operator who died last week , hna
been given to various churchea anil
to the Salvation Army. The amount
of the estate Is not HBcertaln-
able , but It Is reported In bo In the neigh
borhood of $1,000,000. The Salvation Army'a
Hharo is about one-fourth and the mouoy late
to bo used ( or slum work ,
The Churchman states that not only Is th *
Church of England not endowed by the StnU
or Parllnment , hut there Is no such organlza.
tlon ns the Church of England to endow. In
law , the Church of England IB only an nsao-
elation of Borne 20,000 parishes nnd cnthodrnl
chapters and It Is to them In their Individual
corporate capacity that the revenues of tb
church endowments are paid.
Hev. Jnmes Dunne , n vicar bishop In tin
African Methodist Eplsc pal church , South ,
Is on the way to Cnpo Town , Afrlcn , whorrt
ho expects to start u eebool and church for
the Instruction nnd redemption of the Kalllrs.
Hu is himself n natlvo Knlllr and for tha
first fourteen years of bin llfo lived as ii
savage among his people The proposed
nchool will bo modeled after the Wllberforc *
university In Ohio.
Lyman Abbott says "I have tried to In
terpret my own conviction that religion ton-
slsts not in tailoring something about ( iod ,
or thinking about God , but In trying to llvo
the (11 vine llfo Ittllgloti lu simply the art ol
living not oven the art of right living , for
living Is the beginning of death Hellglon
means for the merchant honesty forMj / -
Journalist truthfulness , for the noldler hero ,
Ism , for the minister sincerity and candor. "
MlllloiiH Glieii Av\ny.
It Is certainly gratifying to the public to
know of nno concern In the land who are
not afraid to ho , gincrous to the needy and
Buffering. The proprietors of Dr King's New
Discovery for Consumption , Coughs and
Colds have given away over ton million trlafv
bottles of this great medicine ; nnd have th 4
satisfaction of knowing u has abaolutely
cured thousands of honcleia eases Asthma ,
Bronchitis Hoarseness and all disease * ot
the Throat , Chest nnd Lungs are surely cured
by It Call on Kuhn & Co. , druggists , and
get a free trial bottle. Itegular nlzu COc and
$1. Every bottle guaranteed or price re
funded.