THE Oaf AIT A DAILY BEJ3 : SC2TDAT , TTEBRTTAftT 12 , 1801) .
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i IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.IF
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rAsmo.vs u
t.nrlnu. .SptiiiKlcil 5 > t CJimnn ,
Slirlnic find Siiniiiier IfnlN ,
NKW YORK , Keb. 10. The first and the
most stringent commandment v > f the mo-
UUlcs now Is , you must bo well corseted.
If you nre not and If you hnvo principles
against reducing your wnlst mcnsuro by
means of a long , stcndy pull on your slay
Blrlnge , then don'ct for good looks' Bake ,
Attempt to hnvo your spring gowns cut on
( lie now mode. A largo waist Is not to b6
tolerated with tbo shape of n sltlrt and
Imnquo we nre now wearing nnd every wo
man who etlll nourishes the ( indent belief
of her fecx that comfort and health ought to
| j bo Invariably sacrificed lo beauty In banting
and lacing with the vigor of fifty years
ago ,
This Is woeful , but tve are all panting
after a small round zone , a sweeping hip
arch nnd a perfectly flat obdomon , which nro
only to bo got by means of too now canvas
silk and linen utnys , with their toUgh silk
laces. Most of the now corsets are , to begin
with , absolutely plain ; their onlyornnmon-
tatlon Is n little decorative needlework about
ihclr tips. They nro heavily boned , but th
best of them nro not made of tbo clumsy
coullllc , by tbo strength , of which much
store used to bo laid ,
CouUlIc , It Is agreed , gives the figure a
stiff , hard expression and nowadays the de-
slro Is to be closely Inced without losing
supple grace of aspect. The truly well-
cut corsets nro made Very short In the back ,
curved out under the shoulder tolado and oa
the hip proper they nro short and boneless ,
while the steel and whalebone arc brought
to the front. Ity this simple device it la
wonderful the way useful curves nro thrown
out aud buruplsh superfluity crushed In and
a woman whoso stays arc very tight moves
about with the apparent elasticity of n skirt
dancer.
Now , we won't ralso nny hygienic ques
tions here , but rest on the assertion that
fiom a modish point of view the new corset
accomplishes wonders and If you happen
to be as thin as the proverbial fence rail ,
A SEQUINBD' DOWN.
so thin , Indeed , that no amount of lacing
could produce hips or bust , then you can
easily buy a pair of prepared stays that will
produce them for you. These will be made
of a lluen net , having aerated pads In the
rlght places. The pads , by the way , nro so
prepared as not to heat the body and so
diminish the flesh , as clumsy cotton pads do.
Next summer such delicately built women
as need neither to lace nor to pad will pop-
ularlrc the sweetest little corsets made all
of n tough , flat linen lace , while already for
homo wear the corset makers are showing
pretty things made of horizontal rows of
linen beading , through which broad satin
ribbons run to form the walls of the stay.
Siiniictloa Gown * .
Next oTtcr corsets anil ithelr vagaries and
cruelties , the lopla of moat 'burning ' Inter
est among fashlc-aablo feminities la jetted
net. Who la so poor , or so hopelessly con
servative that a Jetted not Is not possible
or neevlcd In her
wardrobe ? Every one
who nesumefl to havea
- a social place pos
sesses one , and It Is 6afo 'to say that the
cost of a pretty costume of 'this material , in
black neit of course , Illuminated with black
sequins nnd hung over black lace Blllt , can
bo reckoned at (50 and up. The economy
of this species of tollot Is that It la assured
to bo eminently smart for the next twelve
months , and It Is appropriate for every oc
casion.
Llko the wood wino ithat needs no bush ,
ft scqulncd nca requires no trimming , and
the moro severely simple Its build , the more
absolute Is ltd claim to be called fash
ionable. Very few of ihceo toilets but nro
made up high 'In the throat nnd long la
the Bleovo , with an under waist 6f silk so
contrived tint the arms and shoulders can
be swathed In or denuded of the silk lin
ings at the wearer's will , or as occasion
ecems to demand , a high or decollete effect
ieneath lur net waist. The skirt must be
very long la front
end boosting som * train
trtilnd and the highest authorities do not
counsel the wearing of colored neck bands
or glrdlca with such a brilliant block
tollot.
Rn passant , let It be advised that you
who care ito bo abreast of fathlon do not
buy anything more In turquoise blue. Wear
ou < whatever you have cf this or
lay it away and make your bowa and neck
bands nnd fresh hat crowns of velvet or
eatln In mauve. If , however , blub Is es
sentially your color , adopt Sevres or ash
blue. They are both tender , lovely tones
nnd very much In
demand. Antique or un
cut velvet Is a material that has had Just
one winter of vogue and was never a very
useful goods.
The dressmakers no longer countenance
Kodol
Dyspepsia Cure.
Digests what you eat.
Itartlflclallydlgesta the food and aids
Nature in strengthening and recon-
structloRthe exhausted digestive or *
gans. It is the latent dlBcorered digest *
ant and tonic. No other preparation
can approach it In efficiency. It In
stantly rellr.vesand permanently cures
Dyspepsia , Indigestion , Heartburn ,
Flatulence , Sour Stomach , Nausea ,
Sicklleadache.QastralglaCrampsand , ,
fell other results of Imperfect digestion.
frtpar d by e. c. OtWItt A Co. , Cblcago.
the uee of ribbon girdles and collars on
their new toilets. They Insist that It U
neither tidy nor becoming to finish off r
dress eo mul that the collar especially should
bo n fixed nnd rather elaborate detail of n
costume , They nro opening n spring ol
collars that arc high as over , with ruffs nnn
lappets back of the ears and often very blft
bows In front. A crush velvet stock la not
good taste ) It has been superseded by n
stiffened band of silk laid In tiny perpendicu
lar tucks , having pointed projecting blU set
on nnd reeling directly behind tha cars.
All the girdles are narrow folds of velvet
drawn to a slight point In front , often
through n tiny bright buckle or just folded
over At the ends and made fast with Invisi
ble pins.
Make ready , say the milliners , for n
spring of email hats raised off tha fnco and
In shape but slight departure * from the
toques In velvet that have prevailed all
winter. One feature of the straw hate Is
already budding forth , nnd that is dellcato
tulle trimming. Iy this Is not Implied the
glided tulle toques that very smart person
ages are already wearing , but simple straw
shapes showing pretty big roecttca of tulle
with hearts of small flowers. Many Bonslble
soula nro ripping off dusty ribbons from
tUclr faithful winter headgear nud furbish
ing up with these sweet , clean tulle ornn-
mcnls , In deep rote tulle , for Instance , with
dull red carnation hearts ; lilac tulle with
violet centers , or whlto net with buttercup
hearts.
Bi.rliiK Hllkx.
The silks for the now season arc flaunting
tholr glories In every shop , and some ot
them are old friends with novel names. A
goodly showing , though , Is made of genuine
recruits , and among them are surahs and
foulards that are guaranteed to wash and
concerning whoeo popularity there need be
no question.
The nowcst color In foulards Is orchard
bloom and Jt Is noticeable that crisp siks
bavo somehow crept out of sight. In the
place of the once dearly loved taffeta wo
aava Trlcatrlnc , Marchaletto nnd inlorctto
and pougco up to data , chawing n eoft fine
ness end beauty of decoration that Is be-
rend anything ever seen before. Bcngallno
silk poplin and light wool goods with a
strong Infusion of silk command even moro
interest than the silks themselves.
French cashmere with a. velvet surface
and an almost transparent nuns veiling ,
spotted or striped with etlk , Is the sort of
hlng that claims every shopper's attention
tmt now. Wo fill want airy cloths to drape
over colored silk skirts and we are getting
very deep In checks. That which is not
checked ta qulto sure to be striped , such for
example as the pongee lawns and the fancy
usters and Canton cloths. A book full of
lowcry language might easily be devoted
o a description of these latest fruits of the
com , but ono pleasant truth all shoppers
now bear In mind , that It requires less ma-
erlal than over before to make a gown. In
pita of trains having come for a good long
visit. MARY DEAN.
STARS AT WOMAN'S COLIiKOES.
Girl Stnrtcii < Who Have Won Dlntlno-
tlou n IlUtrloiiio ArtlNtn.
The drama 'plays ' a much more Important
mrt In the college ijlrl'e career than might
> o supposed by the uninitiated. U has
rnssed through many stages of evolution In
he lost twenty-live years since Its first In-
reduction in the classic halls by the timid
young pioneer In the Hold of the higher
education for women. Then some unnm-
iltlous little play was undertaken and prc-
ented In the gymnasium or college parlor
without any particular dilll or preparation
on the part of the performers. Today
Shnkespearo Is the most popular playwright ,
bona fide theater occasionally the scene of
action , the acting excellent , the dressing
nd scenic effects artistic and perfect in
detail.
It Is astonishing how universal has be
come this playing at all the women's col-
cgcs. Even Mount Holyoke hns tie "senior
Iramatlcs" lo assume the college vernacu-
ar and the Women's college of Baltimore ,
vhlch Is so conservative as to forbid danc-
ng , card playing and attendance at the theater -
ater of Its women students , yet sanctions
.heatrlcnls among these latter , regarding
.he study and performance ot the drama as
a potent educator.
The case of a collcgebred woman bocom-
ug an actress after taking her bachelor's
degree Is almost , If not quite unknown ,
which goes to prove that amateur In
dulgence at her alma mater does not tend
o make her stagestruck.
The heads of the English departments at
nil the feminine seals of learning believe
that constant and active familiarity with
ilnya and playing by the students broadens
.heir culture , sharpens and strengthens
their faculties of perception and Judgment
and aids better than almost any other man
ner of training In producing an all-around
development of mental poise , graceful bearIng -
Ing and ease of address ,
Smith' * Sinr * .
Smith college Is ono of the leaders In
college theatricals and undoubtedly the an
nual play 'presented by the seniors In Juno ,
the week preceding commencement. Is the
most finished and -scholarly performance
given regularly by any of the women's col
leges.
For this occasion the Academy of Music
at Northampton U hired nnd three con
secutive presentations afford opportunity to
all the college world and Its guests to wit
ness the "senior dramatics. " The prlco of
eeats la 60 and 75 cents and so precious are
the tickets that each freshman and sopho
more IB only allowed her individual ono.
The two underclasses attend on Thursday
night , when the performance Is really the
dress rehearsal ; on Friday the juniors and
their friends form the audience , while Sat
urday Is the night of nights for which the
seniors have sent out formal Invitations and
when the crush occurs , bringing With It ns
brilliant and notable an assemblage of men
and women as may bo found nt any of
America's most representative or state func
tions.
The class of ' 95 Introduced the Shakes
pearean era with "Midsummer Night's
Dream. " Often as many as twenty students
will bo In training for one character , trials
being given to sec which Is the best for the
part , the committee deciding and the trainer ,
Alfred Young of Now York , giving the final
decision , and tbo cast settled upon by the
end of February ,
These playa have produced a number of
genuine stare , although the aim Is to have
every part DO well played as to debar star
ring. AH Shylock In "The Merchant ot
Venice , " Miss Gertrude Dyer manifested
such force and such comprehension ot the
character's subtleties as to astonish her
udltors , Ml s Cornelia Sherman Hartcr's
Impersonation of Beatrice In "Much Ado
Abou ( Nothing" was compared to that ot
Ada Ilehau , losing nothing by It , and U bus
been tald of her that she took bold ot the
part with co uncertain amateur's grasp.
Miss Grace E. Blanchard la another ot
Smith's shining lights , making her mark In
masculine roles as the comedian , MUs Ruth
II. Duncan and her sister , Alice , with a
long list of others , have made reputations as
stare.
stare.W
W lle ley and Vasear also rank high for
the quality of their theatrical performances ,
Vnssar calling the attention and approval
of even the professional crlllcs to Us Greek
piny , "Antigone , " given In Iho town of
Poughkccpslo some five years ngo. Miss
Hmcllnn Barllett , who portrayed the leadIng -
Ing Oreek , graduated head ot her class nnd
took the University of Chicago fellowship.
But long before the days ot "Antigone" the
Vassar girls were atlemptlng ambitious
dramatic flights nnd In Gcorgo Ellol's "Tho
Spanish Gypsy , " Hnltlo Stnnton , now Mrs.
Harriet Slanlon Blnlch , the eminent lec
turer and student of economics and daugh
ter of Mrs. Elizabeth Cndy Stanton , gained
laurclo for licrsclt as Iho velvet-clad Span
ish cnvnller.
The four chnptors that compose Phil-
alethels glvo lllllo plays , usually ot the bur-
Icsquo type , at their chapter meetings , nnd
these nro excellent , the character work often
Indicating real genius on the part of ttio
gay young actors. Among some of the
ecent stars are Miss Eleanor Bclknap ,
Smma Lester Baker , Eleanor K. Ray , Marie
leimer nnd Anna G. Rtchey , Miss Baker
loldlng the ofllco of president of "Phil"
during lie'r senior year.
The affiliated colleges , Radcllffe and Bar
nard , are especially fond of "the play" nnd
seem to take pleasure In writing their own
productions. Recently the so-called Glee
club theatricals in the auditorium of Fay
louse , Radcllffo's main structure , consisted
of the opera , "Tho Orientals , " the music
> y Miss Josephine Sherwood , ' 99 , was voted
charming , the libretto by Miss Kato Berry ,
98 , clever and piquant.
At Barnard the freshman play written
iy Miss Florence Sauvlllo and Mies Cor
delia Wendt made these two college maids
.ho heroines ot the hour. The sophomores
wore not to be outdone and ono of their
number wrote "A Sense of Propriety , " acted
with much zest > by her classmates.
At all of the co-educational seats of Icnrn-
ng the drama is also regarded ns n part
of n liberal education and the co-eds" Join
forces with their confreres ot the opposite
persuasion , Ihtm being enabled lo give Iho
most truthful and artistic phneo of college
dramatics.
TAMOUS AT T\vij.vrv-rivn.
Cnrccr or llr * lc 1'oHcr , Xnlcil Sculii-
4rcM * ( it t"lilcfiK * > .
Bcselc Potter Is all the rnpc In Chicago.
It Is the correct thing to have n portrait
statuette fashioned by the deft fingers ot tbls
dlmlnutho woman. But as the demand ex
ceeds Des le Potter's power to supply , the
less favored ones are glad to content thpin-
sclvcs with n cup of tea At the llttlo tnblo
In ouo corner of her studio It they are
lucky enough to bo Invited. And Anally , na
there Is a limit to the capacity ot tha tea
tnblo , there is a ntlll larger class which
can do no moro than read what the news
papers have to say About the youiig artist
aud envy the moro fortunate ones.
Now the studio la dcsortcd , the ten tnblo
Is In slot-ago and Its owner IB In Europe ,
partly for a sedson of recreation nnd partly
lo have more Important recent productions
put Into marble under personal supervi
sion.
It used to distress Lorado Tatt to nnd his
young ptipll bent on undertaking tasks en
tirely too ambitious for n pupil , Qut when
Bossle surmounted the dimcultles nnd ac
complished the tasks he ceased to worry on
that account nnd devoted the time to ad
miring her astonishing capacity for work.
Genius Is fioinctlmos described ns unlim
ited capacity for work. Measured by this
SPRING WALKING COSTUME.
definition , Bessie Potter is a genius ; for
no ono ever snw her idle and the number of
her productions is something phenomenal.
When it is added that besides the virtue ot
Industry she has love of art and good taste ,
her success so early in life Is not surpris
ing.
ing.The
The first of her work that attracted atten
tion was a bust of Prof. David Swing. She
gave expression to his picturesque person
ality as It had never been dona beforo.
That was her starting point. She soon
mastered the knack of hitting off tfte promi
nent characteristics of her subject In a
happy manner without making her work
over-elaborate. Her special line took the
form of sketchy little statuettes. Her
statuette of Susan B. Anthony is pronounced
by critics the best portrait of Miss An
thony extant.
Bessie Potter is seen nt her best In figures
of young women and girls. She gets on
famously with the llttlo folk nnd hns dona
some delightful portraits of babies. There
is an individuality about here work that is
so often lacking in tbo production of other
sculptors nnd artists and she means to re
tain It. Sbo has pronounced opinions on
the subject of American nrtlls who "go
to Europe , settle down Ihero and copy year
fitter year Until they lro nil Individuality. '
She thinks It well enough to bo Informed on
nh&t Europe has produced and Is producing
but that Is Ml. No copying for her.
It Is ptcatant to bo nblo to cay ( lint nhllo
society has mtido her n fad her work Ii
appreciated by artists , naffaclll wont wile
over her statuettes. Vonnoh Is nn enthusi
ast on the snmo subject. Toft Isery prout
of the fact that he was once her teacher
nnd the rest of the Chicago art colony seems
to feel a proprietary Interest In Bessie
The consensus of opinion In every studio
was summed tip by Lormlo Tnft when ho
said ;
"Doiulo Potter Is destined to lake n very
high place In American nrt. "
DUCAT OP KI2MAM3 IlllAl'TV. '
An KiiRlUli rnrtrnlt Pnlntrr Scoiitu
the CMiriTiiin of American > Vonic-ii.
"Is physical beauty In women on the de
cline ! " was a question propounded ihe
other day lo Sir Edwnrd Poynler , the presi
dent of the Iloy r Academy.
Sir Edward , who has put as many fair
fcnllnlno faces on canvas ns any artist ol
his time , rapped out nn uncompromising
yes. The painter undoubtedly spoke for Ills
own country and within the range of his
own experience ; nevertheless It 1.4 obvious
that a similar assertion may be made con
cerning women In America.
"Tho United States , In the last hundred
years , has certainly produced a greater
number ot handsome women than nny other
civilized counlry , but , unfortunately , since
fcmlnlno brauty defies statistics , wo linvo
no figures to compnre on the subject , for
all that the standard of beauty among our
women grows lower every year , " said n
New York portrait painter , whose- work Is
known from the Atlantic to the Pacific ,
"There are a number of reasons to bo
cited as responsible for the existence of
tbls condition , " he Bald. ' 'Ono ' ot the most
potent reasons , I think , Is the absolute In
difference of the nineteenth century , and
especially the American man , < to physical
perfection In womankind.
' 'Even fifty years ago they wore vastly
moro sensitive to Its Influence nnd Interested
In Its phases. Young fellows a half a ccn
tury back read poetry , nourished romantic
dreams , -wore their hair about their cars
and indited verses , la Imitation of Byron ,
to dark-eyed Inez and goJden-halred Helen.
Fairy forms , clustering ringlets , azure orbs ,
etc. , flitted through their dreams and the
woman whose appearance tallied In a meas
ure with these standards was reverenced
and adored ns the Ideal sweetheart and
wife.
"Ho did not care a rap whether Inez
could read Greek or not , or understood n
word of parliamentary law , but ho did de
light over her blushes , her swan throat
and alabaster shoulders , and the portrait
painters of that day prove , bsyond the
shadow of a doubt , that she possessed most
of these Charms In an abundance we don't
see any longer.
"An ugly girl was In rather hard lines
then , good-tempered and witty as ehe might
be , for the young man was romantic , and It
was the Sweet Alice , with no great Intel
lectual force , but lots ot brown hair , dewy
freshness and timid admiration of him , who
Inflamed his sentimental heart. Her beauty
was her stosk In trade , she and her mother
knew Its value and everybody envied and
worshiped It.
"Today , If a woman must have admira
tion , she either goes In for athletics , or
learning , or she dresses her daring vivacious
little self up in Paris gowns and thus earns
her bellesblp. Whether she does this be
cause she prefers to bo athletic , and learned
and what not else , to her old power beauty ,
or whether she has grasped at them ns sub
stitutes for her lost and irretrievable loveli
ness , I don't vouch. It Is enough to say that
they nre bound to sufflco and everyone Is
apparently happy , except the artists and
sculptors who flnd It harder nnd harder
every year to secure proper models.
"All these , however , are not the prlmo
reasons for the decay of beauty. Men nro
philosophic and have learned to estimate
mental over physical charm , chiefly because
the new woman has not much be.auty to
offer. There Is a notion prevalent among
the gentler sex that It is very foolish to
waste time nourishing her bodily charms ,
that there are more Important callings In
this world. Having decided to underesti
mate this great gift she is as busy as possi
ble destroying it.
"She is doing It by over study for ono
thing. In payment for her book learning
she Is contracting her chest , extinguishing
the limpid light In her eyes and bleaching
her cheeks. In payment for her tremendous
athletics she Is growing horny-palmed with
heavy muscles , ruining the contours of her
limbs , her complexion Is weather beaten and
her hair ! s rough. In society she overwhelms
her strength with eo many duties and
pleasures and such extravagant rich food
that she Is the victim of gout , nerves , neu
ralgia and dyspepsia nnd ill health has
SUGGESTIONS FOR SUMMER TOILETS ,
Gamfaffexlora and HsaSr
The brilliant complexions of women In the moro exclusive circles of Norr
York society re tiot explained by the theory that nssoclntos beauty nml Idle
ness , In fnct , many leaders of the world of fashion arc hard worker * . Yet
they Veep their good looks even when they nro old. How do they manage
it ? THE MISSES HULL , of 73 Fifth Avenue , New York , themselves con-
nectcd with some of the most noted and honored families In the metropolis ,
have answered the question. They have prepared for the use of womou lu
general , five prepnrntio.ia for improving the complexion and the hnir.
O
The Misses BELL'S
COMPLEXION TONIC \ The 31lsnes BELL'S
Is an external nppllcntlon , the presence ] COMPLEXION SOAP
of which ou the fair cannot bo detected. .
It Is perfectly harmless even lo tlie moft. Is nuulc from Die pure oil of Inmbi'
d llc tc skin. U Is n sure nnd quick , nool. U Ii healing nnd grntlfrliiK to the
cure for nil roughness and criipllcms. , iVlli , keeping U nt all time ! In a clenn
U acts on the skin tu n tonic , prodiicInK , nuil healthy ttato. This Soup Ii daintily
anntiirMly juirc complexion. Cosmctlis , stttitM , nud Ii n most welcome aid to
mtrely hide blemishes. ThcTonIcBets ( ( the toilet of fnitldloui women. The lit-
rid of them. { most cnr > It tnVrn in tolectln ; materials
U removes pimples , freckles , blackheads i and tcrupulous clentillucH In th labor
heads , inotliiislclics , 11 versixits.eezeum. atory Insure * the purity of h product.
redness , alllncM nml nil ulfcoloratlons 1'rlcc , 24 ccnla per cake , larg four-ounce
and Imperfections of the sklti , 1'ilce. Jl size.
K bottle.
Tito Minses DELL'S The Mls'.en BELL'S
HAIR TONIO OAPILLA'REHOVA
for rwtnrliiR premsturcly gray lockj to
cures dandrud nnd pruxcnls any return J their original color.
of It ; stops that niuddculDK itching of ) Iticmiin dps nor a stnln. It lin color
the scalp and makes the hnlr Gtiong , j less llauhl tlmt it nppllej to the roots of
toft &uil lustrous It is especially helpful - ; the lialr nnd leaves no telltale signs on
ful to penntiK whose hair It thin , ( fry nud J tha scalp or forehead
Untile to full out. The tonic demiseJ Neither does U chnnge the eolor of tha
the skin about the roots ol the hair : will J hnlr all at once. Only dyc do that ,
Eoon cover IId spots with a Imudeome ) nnd they wnh oil. liut Cnmlln-Kcnuva
growth. I'rlcc , Sin bottle. not nash off. Price , 81.M per bottle.
anasea BELL'S SKIN FOOD
U n soft , cronmy , exquisitely perfumed ointment , nbicli helps the action of the Tonic , i
and , in mild cnsci of roiijihne > 6. redneis. pimples , etc. , Is a rnio lu llielf. It clears the
pores of the sklu of Ml linpuritUs and feeds It by building up the texture and making
the flesh i btneatb it I solid and firm. 1'rlcc , 7A cants per jar.
A trial bottle of the CUSSES HELL'S COMPLEXION TONICJ
nt our parlors In Now York Clly , or mulled to ny nddressi
Uiplntn package upon receipt of eight cents lu stamps or sll\cr <
to cover tbo actual toil rtfpostane Coirefipoiidcnce cordially sollc-
iUd. Address The Mlsicfl Bell , 78 fifth A\o. , New York Clty.j
book " Secrtti . " JVf t ad . I
, Smdjor our new ctf Beauty. e o any drui.
The Kiisses Bell's Toilet Preparations are for
Sale in This City at any Drug Store.
sapped her color , spoiled her figure and aged
ler before her time ,
"To sum up my nrgument I would con
clude that the whole course of our clvlllza-
.lon Is against the growth of feminine
seauty. Jlon no longer care for It , nnd
women no longer nourish It. The typical
American girl , If she Is pretty , has every
Generation n shorter period of bloom. I3y
the time she is thirty , when really she
should bo in all the vital splendor of ripe
ovellncss , she is growing cither very thin
or very fnt , her hair Is getting dry , harsh
and scant , her skin pale and wrinkled ; In
face she is fading , nnd by forty she is re
signed to appear like an old woman.
"Her daughters naturally will enjoy a
shorter period of bloom and earlier suc
cumb to the blight that our elaborate mod
ern food , close hot houses , sedeutary way of
Ifo nnd mental exertions Invariably bring.
There may be some stem BOUB who nro
quite content to see our women's beauty
take wings , but In the long run not higher
education nor golf championships will re
pay the sweethearts nnd wives of the fu-
uro for the loss of nature's glorious gift ,
nnd the world is going to be n colder and
harder place to live in for the loss of ( ho
pretty woman. "
Feminine 1'iTxonnl * .
The dowager empress of China is still en
gaged in giving her representation cf J'i'j '
tar part la "How Cue Woman Has Her
Own Way. "
Mrs. Charlotte Roulez Chnrller of Roselle ,
N. J. , left an rotate worth about $20,000 ,
practically all of which , it is said , was
made by telling fortunes.
Mrs Julia Dent Grant , widow of Ocnoral
Grant , Is now rntre than 70 years oM , and ,
having grown qutto feeble , rarely leaves ner
ToshlnEton home. Her sight IB rapUly
falling.
Mrs. M. Fleming , recently appointed cura
tor of astronomical photographs , is the first
woman whose name has ever appeared In the
catalogue cf Harvard unh orally among the
officers of the Institution.
Miss need , daughter of the speaker , and
Miss Talmnge , daughter of the noted
preacher , are regular attendanta nt the
sessions of congress the former 1m the
house nnd the luUor in the senate.
Hobson's sister Is now shown to be tin cool
and bravo ns her brother. A horeo ran
away vllli her the other day , but by her
coo ! no 33 and self-possession she succeeded ,
after n time , In controlling the animal. And
she ud ! not faint after It was over.
Mla-s Nnncy Reeves , a well known society
girl ol Baltimore , lias applied for the llrnt
v.icanry at the Johns Hopkins training
HchGoJ , iircl will fit herself for the duties of
a tinlnoJ nurse. It Is her Intention to use
the ( jiperlenco thus gnlned In rn.lnfci
o'ck ' roH-ons who ore unable to pay for such
service.
Helen Kollnr , the famous deaf , blind and
du'n ) gill who has beun BO highly educated ,
visited the floston niiiBCUin nit room a few
dny.i are and "saw" tliu statiu-H. My ) IIBS- ;
Ing her wonderfully bcnsltlvc fingers over the
ilgures she w b nblo t ) > got a correct idua of
their i/inj ortlons and iliscourbc'd most inter
est Ing' ' i of her experience.
It IK reported 'Hint ' Mlsi Lutln A. Lytlo cf
Topelia , Kan. , has been npiulntcxl a mrmbcr
of the funnily of the law department of C'cn-
trnl Tiniossee college , Nashville. Mlsfc
Lytlo If the young negro woman who WUH
graduated with honorn from the Central
Tnnmcffo College In 1807 , and wn8 admitted
to tlif bt-r of Tennessee at Memphis In Ben-
temb' r of that year.
A correspondent of Colllcr'H Weekly says
of the 1'hlllpplno women : "Kor nil Ihcli
dark faces , they have figures tha grace of
which Is accentuated by the very garments
they wear. They have lustrous Jark ye&
and luxuriant black hnlr. In which thry take
great pride ; It is long , thick nml lo ? > .
anointed with uoeo-imit oil , i0iii. | l 01 d
washed with llrno Julro and usually worn In
a. cell or knot luld by < a goldan cnmi ) m
ornamented pins. Hal niul bomivts iie un
known among the Filipinos , to no doubt
many nn American hunband wishes he livoj
hero. The native women have < lno shaped
feet that never know n stocking ; Duty weui
low nllppoi-8 of an Oriental pattern , coinc-
tlmes v.ioden slioou , The dreai of a Kiliplno
women usually coiiHlHts of n HliiKlo arm iiia
with wide uleevcs ; a I'lua c-Jolh hrjtlkir-
snlef la generally worn nrouml 'ho ti c ! ( . and
every ono wears u ronary or a. crucifix.
Houivkpcplng In the nathe neeMon id ini'lt '
primitive In Its details. hovivnuklng ,
sourtshlp and marriage are hero ronOiictcil
In 'tho manner common In Orlo'ital ' Inni's ,
Iho lover worvlng Iho father of tils fu'uio
wife. Fifteen 'years ta the custcanary ago
r marriage hero In the Philippines. "
Frill * of riiMliioii.
Hound walsta and Eton Jackets of fur arc
worn with cloth skirts.
Fancy handkerchiefs with colored hem
stitched borders and colored embroidery me
revived again ,
DraD deculr Is coo name for the new dull-
flnlshod cloth which is coming In to nil th
place of faced cloths.
A novelty it : skating gowns Is mndo en
tirely of black caracul with rosettes of roxi-
colored velvet on the bodice to brlghton tlo
effect.
Accordion plaited materials are still in
very grout favor In the making of skins ,
waists nnd overdresses and gowns designed1
for both women nnd clilldien.
nengallne In any pretty color Is very pop
ular for cepiratowaists , but If you wtnt
the smartest thing got white and make It
with a narrow nmnd yoke of Ince.
A prevailing feature of drees which can
bo made great use of In renovating partly
worn dresses Is the addition of n , gulmpo of
different material from the rest of the gown.
The best dressed , mosi up-to-dato women
have discarded Jewelry nlmcist entirely for
day wear , but gems of all kinds nnd grades
of magnificence glitter In profusion in the
evening.
A high-necked lace bolero cut with 'lltlo
epaulettes over the shoulders , the lace foru-
ing scallops on the edge , is a pretty addi
tion to a white chlflon bodice made with
elbow BliiiK.cn ,
White chili vests , rovers nnd others accessories
series Impart un appearance of daintiness
aud distinction to the tailor continues they
decorate. The gowns so finished this spring
will be especially attractive.
Street jackets for the coming season nro
either buttoned close down the front or
mUJSS OF SI'ANOl.Kf ) NET.
turned back In rcvcrls to the waist Ilner
r ni ; do ilauhlo broastcd , fastened from < °
shoulder down on the left aide.
I.ong. close-fitting NewmarkctH , that cf > r
the wearer from neck to feet , will be FV
popular for uneful wear during 'tho ' sing
for shopping nnd traveling. They are d < > l -
breaated with rovers collar , and ar 'Ut
without crowing Bcamn on the hlpB ,
A stunning muff to cnrry with your'ock '
cloth town ; is modn of block chiffon , tired
Into tucks , nnl wlilto 1'crslan lamb , ' -"i"
chiffon forms the wl'lo band , arou tha
center and the fur In the lining wl ) ° x-
tendH ovur the edge In two whlto V'8 ' nt
tha omlH.
The prevailing trndouuy In 8klrt/IBt / nt
the moment Is to abollHli Beams usr'y / ' a"
l > o4BlMo. Ono new moJe4 haa no'am ' In
the back , nnd Is curried tout In ' ' ' with
silk Introduced at each Bide In p6 ' ° r a
sort of stole end effect.
The drcxtaklr bdq | f.ilr to /ul / ( lia
bodlco in excess of elaboration o'H ' lower
half , awl the elegant MlmpllRllyllcli oot
long ngo was conspicuous In vin' at-
< lro liaw n' > w almost vanished w"l bo
Itbb and loss In evidence no tli < an" day *
rotuni.
Chlffonctto , which retipmblr * ' " 'H'orty '
Hat In in texture ) and glouu , ) f ° ° f < ho
prptty dres mutcrhla whlvf""nt
shopper. It Is figured In two < * colors
or qulto plain , In pretty , llRflllc'es , re
lieved only by the line cord/1'6" / '
them up and down ,
Tinllol flitrlnua f f " ' " ' .
The National health and ( Bllre reaorti
owned end controlled by tit " Ooveru-
mont. Elegant liotels , ] 'artat""ittn , Ar
lington , nolf. For Inforif" nd booklets -
lots apply to T , 1 , Oodfr 11' UQJ ou .
law SU. , Omaha.