THE OMAHA DAILY BEE : StJ TBA-T , DECEMBER 181808. .
A
C < © f < Sx6 S > < SXShx ( jXf FViXi ! < iF
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. S
ll'
HOLIDAY FASHIONS.
LnlcM In Sklrti , GoiTnn , Sleeve * ,
Minivln and JaokcU.
NEW YOIIK , Dec. 15. It was a novelty
at Iho beginning of the winter for those who
were somber green and brown street gowns
tu dash In the necessary high lights by the
use of brilliant breast knots of natural flow
ers. Violets used to bo the chosen walking
( loner , but now a woman , muffled to her
cars In Persian lamb or sable , pins on her
deft breast a Hat boquct as big , nearly , as
A dinner plate , of purple orchids or sdarlet
cnrnntlo.li , backed with a widespread fan of
maidenhair fern. A great deal of attention
IB given to the method of pinning these In
place. A rosette of ribbon , echoing the
tints In the flowers , Is usually so placed as
to wholly cover the stems.
In the evening spangles still reign supreme
and golden sequins on a black or whUo
transparency Is the highest achievement of
the dressmaker's art But not by the use
of spangles alone Is one entitled to a front
scat among the well dressed , for the
spangles are only one element In the lavish
ornamentation of the goods sold for evening
wear. Spangleo and pearls , spangles and
cut crystal beads and ribbon trimming , all
three applied to wide meshed silk net , or
spangles wrought In with whlto
velvet ribbon and gilt braid , are
among the favorite combinations. , An
exquisite evening dress destined to bo
ultimately worn by Mrs. Astor was of whlto
oatln , over which fell a skirt of black silk
muslin. At Intervals the muslin was cut
out In spaces as largo as the palm , of one's
hand , and patterns of black lace heavily
worked with gold 'spangles and gray pearls
were let In. Another costume for an equally
fashionable woman was of willow-green
satin garnished with raised flowers , made
all of ostrich plumage stripped from the
stem and fastened _ down.wUh . embroidery
Btllchcs. The pattern followed was that of
Virginia cllmatls , and as- Hiewearer of-tWs
glorified raiment moved about the petals , If
one may so call them , of flowers waved and
vibrated at every step. _ f *
It would require the aid ot a colorlst'i
brush to con\oy a genuine notion of the
splendors of some of these modern evening
jyowns. and yet they are not all by any
means as costly as they'sound. Spangles are
more radiant than expensive , unless one
undertakes to wear the new ppcettcs lhat
are lately over from France. These are of
all sizes and are .colored , differently on
their face. Most beautiful uro those called
amaranthlnc.a strange crecnlch-gold on one
side and deeply purple on the other. They
are not attached to the fabtlo by means of
holes through the center , but must be so
set on that at every motion they swing
about , showing1 first one side and then an
other. A black velvet costume resplendent
with a vine motif-worked out In amaranthine
spangles la one of the sights that would
have filled King Solomon with' humble
astonishment.
A Vice Ilcsnl Sleeve. '
I if a discourse on evening drees It woijld
be Incomplete not to mention the now arm
decorations that go by the title of the vice
reg-al sleeve. Lady Curzon herselforiginated
this fashion , which comes to ua from India ,
where the less sleeve you wear thegreater
your physical comfort.
Inside the arm , from the shoulder itrap
down , passes to the wrist a band of Jeweled
lace , or painted muslin , or embroidered
satin. It Is only two Inches and a half wld
and It Is held to the arms by means ot a
lacing of pearl strings , or gold cords , or
ribbon * that catch In eyelets along either
edge of the outside of the arm. This forms
a lattice work , through which the round ,
smooth member shows prettily , and at the
back of the hand the strings of pearls ,
cords , or ribbons knot In a long bunch and
fall over the fingers. ' * *
Tbo evening boa Is not only not obsolete ,
but Is more In evidence this season than ever
before. Smart women wear them to tb
know , made of the softest Liberty silk
popples' petals , falling one thickness over
the other. The * center of the boa Is usually
a long roll as big as one's finger , stuffed
with wool and through/ ! Impregnated with
souvenir du jardln ( a delicate and popular
>
new pcrfumo.
There are not many things more fashion
able this month than fur toques or tiny
pompadour bonnets with one exalted dazzling
white feather flaunting In front Mink and
chinchilla and smoked Russian fox are the
bonnets most sought after , while their close
rivals are toques ot antique velvet In auto
mobile , pervenche and dahlia , , with three
brown eagle quills cocked up in front * -By
day women continue to arrange their hair
according to the dictates of Individual last *
and comfort , while by night the rule seems
to be steadily In favor ot a lofty coiffure.
Gauze butterflies with spangled wings and
bullion bodies measure sometimes eight
Inches from tip to tip ot pinions , and such
queens of clotheslapd as Mrs. Stuyvesint
Klsb , Mrs. Goelet , etc , , carry all their hair
up In a small , tall knot forward of the
crown. This pushes a light pompadour over
the brow. To the small , tall knot Is fas
tened a huge bow ot black velvet ribbon that
is not wrinkled , and through' the hair the
knot Is passed and 'crossed by two long
iprongcd pins , shaped llko hat skewers and
ebowlng most fanciful jeweled beads.
Thl Is a head decoration easy to copy"for
the hatpins of French gilt with beads ot
largo Irregular pearls and pa'ste diamonds
show oft to great advantage and smallout' '
lay by night.
Jottings made here and there In the
realms where goodly and various raiment
occupies large time and thought records tbo
cxtenshc use still made of black taffeta.
Women continue to wear whole gow.ns .of II
at home , and In the mornings , and Instead
of bands of black velvet they show the
crisp , dusky surface ot skirt and body
powdered o'er with large and small , loose-
banging black silk dots , Let , It be men
tioned In a stage whisper that any woman
who Is ambitious to follow the latest fashion
can buy a box of these dots , or balls very
cheap and herself In one morning tack a
core of hundreds on to her black taffeta
costume. . ,
Itelncarnatlon of Shniv.li. , ' .
There is every Indication that before tbo
next new skirt pattern comes out there
will bo oo'more honored article ot wearing
apparel quoted than the hitherto humble
cd Inconspicuous shawl. For a good dozen o
lustrums the shawl baa hidden Its dlmln
Ished else and fringe la the wardrobes o
elderly women. Without the least warning
the shawl lisa become exceedingly modish.
Exquisite creped Liberty silk squares with
fringed edges and colored borders In Persian
pattern are an essential part Just now o
the evening toilet The crepe squaresvar
sometimes deliriously embroidered , or even
painted , and assume In good part the duty
long fulfilled by th boa. At home In tn
afternoon women wear exquisite Importei
Japanese shawls of mingled wool and silk
in pigeon throat purple or white and pin
leaf green pinned like capes on either shoul
der , so that the front points can b throw
back or drawn forward t will , while In tb
rear the shawl hangs llko a large , lees
hood. A new fringed sUk hawl very much
worn , woven In the shape of a Scotchman'
plaid or torreidor * * scarf , Is caught on
no shoulder and allowed to swing clear era <
a drawn up close about the figure. Less
ostly than these are scarf shawls of wool
auz , with bands ot bullion or colored silk
alternating with the wool.
The Co r Cnr llji n.
Comment and experiment are equally busy
with the cardigan jackets and smart quilted
Ilk waistcoats that skaters wear or that
women adopt Indoors over thin shirtwaists.
bo cardigans are exactly as men wear them ,
ave that a little silk Is mixed with the
wool ot which they are quilted. In the
majority of cases the cardigans are done
n dull smoke-gray , reseda green , brown and
mid-ocean blue wool , but bound about the
dges with' ' silk ribbon of a clear and pene-
rattng color. Women who cling to capes
s wraps have found the cardigans of very
real value and comfort and they utilize as
well the wadded waistcoats. These are
ut as , high or low as you please In front ,
re most often of a dull , soft silk outside
nd a light layer of perfumed lamb's wool
ytng between the outsldo and the lining
s stitched in diamond form and the brlght-
st silk.
Occasionally , in place of mere machine
tltchlng.'a delicate vine Is embroidered this
way and that-over the waistcoat front , while
he back Is of heavy , double-faced satin
Irawn In at the waist line under a ribbon
band and stiver or jewel act buckle. The
gayest bultons fasten up these waistcoats
hat skating and sleigh riding and snow
golfing women affect and with which they
wear their watches exactly as men do.
Long and- most interesting are the runes
hat relate to 'tbo newest tangles In taffeta
silk skirts. .The dernlcre crl , 'as the
Parisians say , is ft skirt ot etofm-gray
affota velours , .that fits llko a tire to a
wheel as far down as thb Knees' and 'then
flares or Is thrown out , to use dressmakers'
vernacular. All around It touches the
ground and then , to accentuate this belt-
> otom .qspCQt , ( a .flounce of crisp silk muslin
s cut out on the slope , accordion pleated
and edged with a ruche ot ptnkod-gray taf
feta and muslin. In consequence of these
maneuvers woman In ouch a skirt is apt
to measure thirty-six Inches about the hips
and 136 around her feet , but this Is qulto aa
t should be , for all her carriage and even-
ng , bouse and calling toilets come undet
approximately the same dimensions.
IllUNtrntlon * of FanUloul.
? hO'twa hats given this week tell their
own tale. They are both of antique velvet ,
.heir folds disposed over clnnollne frames.
The .velvet is drawn up handkerchief-shape
n the .tgijue. fnd > the corners 'knotted In
front. Through the knot Is run three eagle
quills. The larger hat of Chasseur shape Is
smoke-gray velvet , ornamented with a
argo paste buckle In front , from which flow
back two long periwinkle-blue plumes.
The children In the sketch represent what
roung people are wearing for festive func-
lens thiswinter. . Their pinafores on sober ,
overy-day occasions are as often as not
made , of brown Turkish linen beautifully
decorated In linen embroidery done In blue ,
red and green , the only stitch being the
simple criss-cross that the eastern needle
women know so wel ) how to use.f It Js
' f
notteeablej'that corduroy for boys as well as
A SMART CHASSEUR SHAPE.
girls Is more than ever in use this winter ,
and that children have all but usurped the
use of brown beaver as the fur trimming
for their cloaks , caps and capes.
MARV DEAN !
now TO "MAKE : UP. "
4 *
Sagge t\oan \ am to the' . Beat Way to
Apply Coimetlci.
Although'nothing Is more to be deplored
than any attempt at "makeup" for ordinary
social functions , It Is sometimes necessary
to resort to artificial devices fancyidress
parties , or amateur theatricals. For these
rare occasions It .may bo 'done In such 'a
way s to be entirely'harmless , and Indeed
the process must , always , be performed with
the greatest delicacy and deliberation in
order to have the results "satisfactory. It
goes without saying that only tbo very best
materials should be used. i. ,
After washing the face , ntfck and arms In.
very hot water , sponge them lightly , wlth
eau-de-cologno and water , or toilet vinegar
and water , and when quite dry rub the
entire surface with some good cream , which
Is neither sticky nor greasy. Then powder
the neck and arms very thickly with some
good powder. Now , "with 'a hare's foot , ap
ply a very little of the best rouge to the
cheeks , shading It off naturally at the edges ,
and powder the face well over. Take a large
piece of fine , clean wash leather , and rub
the powder In well on face , neck and arms.
It Is this polishing process that gives the
soft , natural appearance to the complexion.
The carmine for the lips must be applied
with great care , following accurately the
natural outline. Smears at the corners have
an abominable appearance.
For darkening the eyelashes and brows ,
the following home-made preparation Is the
best : Burn a champagne cork until It will
crumble easily to powder. Put It In a
saucer , and when you have rubbed It quite
smooth , drop pure glycerine on It , and stir
until It becomes liquefied , about the con
sistence of gum. Apply with a very fine
camel's hair bruih.
To remove the make-up cover jour face
with cold cream , rubbed on slightly. Let
It remain for a minute or two , and then
rub off with a soft old linen handkerchief
wash your face well with hot water and pure
soap , rinsing It off with a dash of cold
water. t
COXCnilMNG HOUSEWORK.
_ _ _
Mr . WlnKlrbr Give * Mr. Wlnnlelij
Some Points on the Subject.
"No man living , Rufus , " said Mrs
Wlngleby , solemnly , "can form any Idea o
what housework Is ; be thinks he knows , bu
ho doesn't. It Is never done , and the task
are numberless. You say let things go , bu
they can't.be let go ; they have to be done.
"If I le't things go one day the work I
twice as hard the next Suppose you should
skip a day In your work , wouldn't It have
to be made up ? And It's just the same with
ft woman's work. You don't suppose
j § I I m
woman's work does Itself , do you ? Your
work doesn't wby should _ you expect &
woman's to ?
"You flay let things go , but , Rufus , If I
did you wouldn't be satisfied. You llko to
ce things trim and neat , and If I did let
hlngs go I expect you'd growl , Rufus , just
Ike other men. You mean well when you
ay don't work so hard , take things easier
and all that , but the work has to be done ,
and what the work Is men have simply no
dca. "
"She thinks a heap of the boy , " said a
end father , speaking of the boy's mother ,
'and when he comes hdme from boarding
chool for a little visit she always baa extVa
; oed things for him to eat I like good
blngs to eat myself , and so , _ aside from the
iloasuro of seeing the youngster , I like , to
lave him come , too , on account ot the
better table wo have while he's hero.
"Now , last night was his last night here
on this visit and bis mother had got up a
dinner rather more elaborate than usual ,
even for the boy , and then he , meeting
my services to'a prominent architect He
could make no4 use of me , but-he gave me
some 'valuable'advice , 'do 16 Europe , ' he
said , "If possible , and spend at le'ast three
months studying architecture. Not ths
buildings so much for every architect has
studied that branch but their settings.
Study the grounds. Every year the number
of wealthy Americans who wish to build
handsome homes Is Increasing. In the ma
jority of cases they take a fancy to a certain
style ot architecture and want It built on
some particular spot without the least re
gard for the suitability. Now , what you
want to learn Is bow to build the grounds up
to suit the house. Let the architect build
the house and jou build the grounds. '
"I acted on his suggestion and today. I am
his landscape assistant. I borrowed the
money and took a wheeling tour through
the British Isles and several countries In
Europe with a classmate , who did not hao
to earn her living and was willing to go
any route that was to my advantage.
"Well , as I have said , on my return I
became the assistant ot my adviser and am
today earning a comfortable living with a
little to spare and put aside for a rainy day.
I am the only woman In America filling such
a position , according to my Knowledge , and
I am qulto sure the field Is large enough for
many more.
"My work consists tn planning , and some
times laying off , the grounds surrounding
homes In such a manner as will bo In keepIng -
Ing with the style of the buildings , I plan
avenues , vistas , tangles , waterfalls , groves ,
hedges , grass plots and any other feature
called for by the architecture ot the house.
A MATINEE BONNET.
some friends , stayed and dined with them
and I-had to eat the whole dinner , his share
of the good things and mine , too.
"Now , that was sad , wasnjt It , but we
all laughed over it when we came to think
about It. "
"All tho- children I ever knew , " said Mr.
Chlpp'crly , "were afraid they wouldn't get
their share. I have heard the children ot
kind and indulgent parents , children that
all their lives had what they wanted , ex
press this fear at the table. 'James has got
more than I , ' John would sayand hold up
nis plate to prove it. And this wasn't ba4
manners that they had acquired from some
body they had had all their lives a better
example than that ; It was nature. I Im
agine we are all more or less afraid' we
won't get our share , and It takes years to
bring us to that state ot thoughttulness and
forbearance when we refrain from saying
anything about It , whether wo thlnk we'vs
got our share or not , and even with that ono
sees not Infrequently grown-up people who
have not outgrown , in "this respect , ; the
"
habits ot childhood. " .
A NEW CALLING.
- " " " "
*
Marjorr Dean'a Career. a Landscape
Architect. . .f *
iMarjory Dean Is the romantic name1 of a
vdry practical young- business woman and
perhaps the only feminine landscape as
sistant to an architect. In this country. Miss ,
Dean , or M. Dean "as she signs herself Ih
a bold hand , is a plump little Woman , ' s lll
ander 30 , filled with energy and-.devoted lo
tier wotk. ,
"How did' you chance upon your pro
fession ? " she was ask'ed.
"There waa no chance about It , " she re
'
plied. ' . "I k'new fiihould have to earn my
living wtien I left School , so I endeavored to
lay the ( foundation for" a profession by my
studies even while attending the grammar
grades In tho- public schools. Now , . . ! don't
want you to-think that all of this fore
thought-originated with mo as a girl , for It
did not. I was lucky In having a very
practical'motter ; w < ho treated all of her
children alike , boys and girls.Sha would
ask us all , ven as little tots , what we
expected to do to , earn our living when we
grew up.k Then as we grew up , while at
school , she would give us advice.
"Her advice to me , " Miss Dean continued ,
"was , to look for some other profession * besides -
sides typewriting , bookkeeping and teach
ing. I have no especial talent , so when I
showed a fondness for architecture she en
couraged mo and suggested that even If I
never succeeded in becoming an architect I
might ba an architect's assistant In some
capacity. ,
"So you see , It was my mother who bent
the twlfo , .Just after I left school , within
the month , I came to Now York and offered
It la my.bustness to see to It that the various ,
windows and doors have pretty outlooks and I
bits of landscape , that the several approaches
preaches are made In such a manner as to 1
give the best views of the house. "
it ] r - . . . _ _
POETESS WHO GIIINDS COHIT.
Liven Ncnr by In ait ArtUtlc Home
and IB Known to Fame.
Mrs. Ada Cranahan Norton , poetess and
member of a' famous literary family , runs a
gristmill at Htgbtstown , N. J. , and thereby ,
with the addition of what Is brought In by
her pen , earns a good living. Mrs. Norton Is
a daughter of Rowena Gary , eldest sister ot
Alice and Phoebe Cary , whose verses are
known throughout the world. She owes1
moat of her literary standing to Alice Cary ,
who gave her much assistance and encour
agement at the start. In 1S93 she moved
with her husband to Hlghtstown , N. J. , and
took charge with him of a quaint little flour
mill , built In such a fashion that the ma
chinery could be easily run by a woman.
Three years ago the husband died , and .since
then Mrs. Norton has had solo charge. She
has built tip a reputation for herself and her
mill since then , and farmers for ten miles
around drive to the little min with their
corn , although there are mills nearer home
to which they might go.
Unlike most mills , the one conducted by
Mr ? . Norton has the water wheel actually In
the building. The lower part Is enclosed. In
Is ( former days the -wheel and lower part
were open , and In winter the wheel was very
apt to be frozen and , becoming Immovable ,
would cause the poetess untofd vexation.
All this Is done away with by her little
scheme of enclosing the wheel.
Mrs. Norton lives Mn a house scarcely 100
feet from the mill , large , artistic and con
siderably older than the mill. The mill Is In
a peaceful , poetical place. The poetess does
not forget her.fltcrary work , and even when
engaged In her duties at the mill her fancies
keep busy.
AN OLD-WOULD CUSTOM.
Tangible Evidence ! of Appreciation
( or Public-Spirited Women.
Perhaps they do not do things better in
the effete old world , but they sometimes
do them more picturesquely ; says Harper's
Bazar , When an American woman gives
generously to her country , the government
can do little more than present her with an
Illuminated receipt for the money.- Also ,
she may possibly be notified , tn very su-
perlbr penmanship , ot a municipal -vote of
thanks. Without doubt these are gratify
ing tokens , but from an ornamental point
oflew they have their limitations. Not so '
the order of St. Elizabeth1 , which the em
peror of Austria gives to women of unusual
merit , nor the Golden Rose , which the pope
occasionally beatowes upon some great
Catholic woman , Ot course the rose Is
i not wearable , and that may seem to bo a
I drawback In feminine eyes. But It makes a
most desirable heirloom , even now when
some at Ita glory Is departed.
The rose of today Is a small plant ot
gold , with leaves , buds and flowers , Into
which the pope pours rose balsiin when he
blesses the gift When tbo Vatican treasury
waa richer than it Is now , a great ruby
was used to represent a bud , and there
were diamond den drops on the leaves. The
vase , too , In which the plant stood was of
gold. The diamond drops have evaporated
now , the ruby bud has turned yellow , the
once golden vase Is only sllvcr-gllt , and the
gift costs the receiver more than It docs
the giver ; but still , It Is a coveted honor.
The cost of receiving It Is said to be $6,000 ,
which goes to cover the expenses ot those
who convey It from the pope to the recipi
ent. This manner of presentation Is another
bit ot old world plcturcsqueness. In this
country the Illuminated receipt and en
grossed resolutions go by mall 6r express ,
with no details more spectacular than the
otndal blito of the envelopes.
The Golden Hose Is an annual possibility ,
but , llko many humbler "annuals" ot the
rose species , it docs not always bloom on
time. A sufficiently meritorious personage
Is not always to be found and the gift Is not
bestowed. Next year , however , during the
Lenten season , the pope will give the Golden
Rose to the Archduchess Louise Marie
of Austria , daughter of the late empress.
There Is a tradition that the gift brings un-
happlness with It ; but the archduchess has
already had more than her share of trouble ,
and perhaps the pope's rose may change her
fortune. At least let us hope so.
A TllUCE TO GIVING.
Tilt * Significance of Chrlxtinni ! Lout
In Crucial Tax of Siiclnl Giving.
There Is no sentiment , no propriety , no
dignity , in such a scramble ot giving and
receiving as Christmas now witnesses , says
a writer In the Woman's Home Companion.
Gift-making within late years has become
a burden well nigh Intolerable , not only be
cause of the expense , but because of the act
ual physical and mental wear and tear In
volved. In the matter of gifts It ought not
tobe hard to draw the line. There Is a
%
propriety both of sentiment and tradition In
the exchange ot family gifts ; , certain near
friends there are whom Wo should remem
ber In our Christmas plans ; and surely everyone
ono able to glvo at all shoiuTd remember In
some way the unfortunate. But there Is no
excuse In making these gifts an unwarrant
able burden neither in the sense ot time ,
expense nor effort , s-avo only where the ele
ment of pclf-sacrlflce Is a Joy to the giver ,
and never a source of secret repining. The
mother who saves up to make her little ones
happy has a return within herself beyond
gross price. But even she should remember
that a child will enjoy a single gift , If It Is
something that has been much desired , as
much ns > a large number of gifts. We can
have no real pleasure In the year's greatest
festival If wo go beyond either our means
or strength In Its celebration. Whatever the
size of our incomes , If we have any at all ,
we can have our Christmas tree , our gift-
making and our feast ; the only point being
to gauge the character of these several fes
tival features exactly to the length ofour
purse , with no loophole for after-worry or
uneasy conscience- .
Feminine PcrnonnlB.
Mrs. William C. Whltnev. who was In
jured while horseback riding some time ago ,
shows no sten of further Improvement.
She la confined to bod. from which It la
feared she can never rise.
Miss Wlesch ihaa lust won first prize for
marknmnshlo at the little 'town of Attlng-
hausor. made famous br Schiller. She won
from over 100 competitors , 'Including ' her
father seven brothers and three Bisters ,
The family took nine prizes In all.
Miss Helen Gould is now receiving about
300 letters a dav. Many of them , as a
result of her widely-advertised generosity ,
ere begging letters , and many , as shown
by their postmarks or In some other way ,
are from soldiers who have benefited from
her bounty ,
Scnorha Maria Sandoval. who Is so far
A DECEMBER CAPOTE.
Mexico's only woman lawyer , won her first
case recently In the criminal court In St.
Louis In defending two policemen charged
wUh having needlessly wounded a woman
during an effort tb quell a disturbance.
Miss Sandoval's defense was a brilliant
one.
I i Miss' Elizabeth Cbenav of Wellesley ,
Mass. , has presented to Colorado college a
valuable pipe organ for the auditorium of
the new bulldlne now being erected on the
college campus. It Is given In memory of
Mies Cheney's brother , Charles Pal no
Cheney , who died at Colorado Springs in |
February 1897. I
At the debut In Washington of Miss '
Rosemary Sartorts at a reception at the ,
house of her grandmother. Mrs. Ulysses S.
Grant , tbo tea served was madn from some
of the leaves presented to Mrs. Grant by LI
Hung Chang during his recent visit to this
CHRISTMAS PARTY FROCKS.
FREE ONE FREE
TRIAL BOTTLE
.
THIS OFFER ALMOST SURPASSES BELIEF.
An External Tonic Applied to the Skin
Beautifies it As by Magic.
The DiscoveryOF the Age
.
A WOMAN WAS THE INVENTOR.
Thousands have tried from tlm Im
memorial to discover some efficacious remedy
for wrinkles and other Imperfections of the
complexion , but none had yet succeeded until
the Mleses Bell , the now famous Complexion
Specialists , of 78 Fifth aven'ue , ' New York
City , offered the public their wonderful Com
plexion Tonic. The reason so many failed
to make tbli discovery before la plain , be
cause they have not followed the right prln-
clplo.v Balms , Qrearas. Lotions , etc. , never
have a tonic effect upon the skin , heaot the
failures. ,
The Misses Bell's Complexion Tonlo has a
most exhilarating effect upon the cutlch ,
absorbing and carrying off all Impurities
which the Wood by Its natural action Is
constantly forcing to the' surface of the
skin. It Is to the skin what a vitalizing
tonic Is to the blood and nerves , a kind ot
new life that Immediately exhilarates ana
strengthens wherever applied. Its tonlo
effect Is felt almost Immediately and It
ipeedlly banishes forev r from ths skin
freckles , plmplea , blackheads , moth patches ,
wrinkles , liver pot , roughness , olllness.
eruptloni and dlscoloratlons of any kind.
In order that all may be benefited by their
Great Discovery the MItses Bull will , during
th nrcacnt month , live to all callers at
thilr parlors on * trial bottle of their Com
plexion Tonic absolutely free ; and in orflw
that those who cannot call or who live awajr
from New York may be < ben fitd they frill
send one bottle to any address , all charge *
prepaid , on the receipt of 25 cints ( tamps
or silver ) to cover cost of packing and d .
llverlng. The price of this wondtrful tonlo
Is $1.00 per toottl * and this liberal otto
should bo embraced by all. ' r
The Misses Bell have juit published thtlr
new book , "Secrets f Beauty , " This , valu
able work Is free to all dtilrlng It. Tt
book treats exhaustively of the Important *
of a good complexion ; tills how a woman
may acquire beauty and ke p it. Special
chapters on the care of tbo hair ; how to
hav * luxuriant growth ; harmless method *
ot making the hair preserve Us natural
beauty and color , vtn to advanced act-
Also Instructions bow to banlih superfluout
hair from the face , neck and arms without
Injury to the skin. This book will be milled
to any address on request.
FREE Trial Bottles ot Wonderful Com.
plexlon Tonlo fret at parlors , or 25 cent !
( cost of packing and mailing ) to those at
distance.
Correspondtnc * csrdlslly solicited. Ad
dress
THE MISSES BELL , 78 5th Avenue , N w York City.
Th BIIMM Bell CQBipl * Tonle , Complexion Bo > p IklB Food and D
pllo r ( or cale hy mil
Of Unapprooched Value for the Home , Class-room , Office , or Study.
Journal of Education , Boston : "This Is a treasure. If o one can ooneelve the wealth
of Information , the convenience for reference , the elimination of non-eiweitlals which
make this book worth much more tlau ifco price to any student , teacher , or writer. "
Students' Standard Dictionary
Abridged from the Funk & Wagnalls Standard Dictionary by \
, a large corps of experienced lexicographer under direction
of JAMES O. FERNALD and F. A. MARCH , LL.D. . . .
New from covcrto cover with numerous exclusive features , besides bcinc the tnostamplo ,
comprehensive , accurate , and authoritative academic dictionary in existence. It is the
work throughout of specialists , the aim having been to prod uce a modern and convenient
handbook of dictionary information covering all departments of human knowledge. Ita
vocabulary and appendix features have never been approached by any similar work.
Type , paper , and binding are of the highest quality.
REASONS WHY IT IS THE MOST PERFECT OF ACADEMIC DICTIONARIES.
EXCLUSIVE MERITS OF THIS BOOK. A FEW OF ITS SUPERIOR MERITS.
Found In no other Acadtmlo Dictionary. Supirlor to tuiry tthtr Acattmlo Dictionary ,
EXCLUSIVELY capitalize only such wordi aa SUPERIOR Vocabulary (02,24 ( term * ) ' of unejc-
require capitals. A sunc OUIDB TO CAPITALcelled neon , KICBNMI , and CONVKNIKKT An-
IIATION , fBKincn.
EXCLUSIVELY supplies Prepositions ( over SUPERIOR Definitions ; prepared by EMINENT
1,000) aad illustrates their correct use. BPECIAUHT * AND FULL , EXACT , AMD CLEAR.
EXCLUSIVELY Kl"s Antonyms (5,000) ( ) or op SUPERIOR Pronunciation fiyitcm Indicating
posite word * ; as JNPIHHENB.IBLK AB SYNONTUS. nrnnunclAtloDB WITH KAVB AND BIUPUOITV.
SUPERIOR traoed buck direct
Etypiolocles In
EXCLUSIVELY Indicates the difference be-
line ; no vuesies on INCURSIONS INTO COGNATE
twreu oowiotND wonos and DROKIK WORDS , LANOCAOR.
EXCLUSIVELY contain * thousands of xxw SUPERIOR Illustrations ( over 1.955) ) befog PLM-
WOHDS and APPENDIX FEATURES of great value. TlTUt , TASTkrl'L , AND OF 1IOK DirlNITITB VALUE ,
VAI IIARI P APPFNniY-Th9 Appendix wnbracesi Proper N m In
VALUHDLC.
MrrtnUIA mouraphy , Fiction , Hl tory , Oeoitrapby. etc. {
Foreign Word * and Phrases In English Literature ; Faulty Pinion , IMsrutrd Pronunci
ation ; Chemlcal-ElonienU , Titles and Drtcrren ; Welchts and Measures , Hlitorloal Dataj
Arbitrary Bieus and Byniboli ; Common and Metric Systems , etc. , e | . .
PERFECT FROM EVERY STANDPOINT.
Sunday-School Xlmu , Philadelphia : "Taking It all tognther , the etudcnU * Edition of the
Btandanl Dictionary , because of the peculiar care vlren to It * selection * , and becauw of Iti oom-
prrliensiveness , It * concisenesn , ltd backing of scholarly conseuius , ( ti readability and perlablUty ,
and Its moderate price , ( { " pronilieof alartte field of ugefulnms , not only among students , but
lu editorial rooms , on the desks of literary workers , and In home Ubrarlei. "
Richard M. Jonei , I.I..D. , Hrad Maater President D , H. Coehrao. Folyteohalo
William Penn Charter School , Founded Inntltute , Itroaklyn. N. V. : H U UIB mo t
1WJ , I'hlladeipr-.li , Pn. : "I dm convinced that rrilatilr , comprehenrtro , and convenient dic
there Is no academic d'ctlonary ' published la this tionary for tha teacher's deilc yet offered to
country that approaches It" ui. "
lionton Herald : "It U to fao preferred to all othpr dictionaries meant for ofllpe or deik luo
and for scholars In high schools and academleB. Quite sufficient for the need 3 of nine readers In ten. "
iMTgf 8ro , 015 pp. , cloth , leather buck. (3,50 net. Bound in full Iratlier ,
84.OO uet. Carriage prepaid. I'ateut Thumb Index , CO cent * extra. /
Sold by Booksellers , or sent postpaid on receipt of price by
WARD & GOW TAnrnln JtU < lln a ,
UNION SUUABE , Now York City ,
country. Tbo reception was attended by
"everybody" aud was in all ways a notable
aftatr.
Mrs. Sarah Josepha Hale , a Boston
woman , and editor of < ho first woman's
magazine published In this country , worked
for tuenty years to ha\o a definite day set
apart for Thanksgiving. Time did not
daunt.her courage , but rajther Increased
her insistence. She wrote to governors of
states and to residents ot the United
States. At last President Lincoln adopted
her suggestion In 18G4 , when there was
reason to relolce o\er the success of the
north in restoring 'the ' union.
In London there Is a woman , Mies Pen
man , who has control over more than COO
conductors In the employ of the London
Tramway company. Miss Penman U the
only woman In England who occupies the
very unique position of superintendent of
street railway conductors. She engages all
the conductors BOO all told and the Inspectors
specters , receives their reports from day to
day and superintend * the numerous details
appertaining to the distribution of tickets ,
the checking of the men's dally returns and
the dismissal of men when occasion arises.
Harriet P. R. Stafford of Collage City ,
Mass. , has presented to the government the
flag flown by the frigate lion Hommo Hlch-
ard during Ita memorable victorious en
gagement with the British frigate Serapls ,
September 22 , 1770. Mrs. Stafford also pre
sented satlsfdctorv evidence that tbo Mac
was the first bearing the stars and rtrlpcs
ever hoisted over an American vessel of
war. and the first that was ever saluted
by a foreign naval power. According to
the evidence the flair was bestowed upon her
ancestor , James Bajard Stafford , by the
marine committee of Philadelphia In 1781
"on account of hli meritorious services
throughout the late war. "
Frill * or I'mlilon.
A swordhllt within a horseshne set with
diamonds Is a very pretty ncarfpln.
Among the many useful articles for preo-
entu Is a tape measure of diver or gold set
with amethysts.
A hand rnlrrcr with a silver handle- has
a prettily painted lake scone under the gla i ,
giving the effect of nature's mirror.
Heavy gilt buckles are used for millinery.
Clasping tbo colored velvet of the toft
draped toques they ere very effective.
Very handsome ball dressea re this sea
son made of chenille-dotted nit over satin ,
trimmed with very fluffy plaited ruffles ot
chiffon , bordered with tiny lines of chenlll *
the color of the dot in the net.
The new let and cut steel embroideries
are quaint and elaborate in design and the
work on net. velvet or satin very beauti
fully executed.
The fashionable color among the ntnr
cloth ROW us Is brown , with raauvo silk lin
ings and a touch of mauve velvet with gold
and cream lace In the trlmmtnc.
Cyrano the new shade of ruby red with a
tinge of pink In It , bus much to recommend
H , aa It Is said to bo ono of the few shade *
of red equally becoming to blondes and bru-
uettcs.
Gorman drinking horns are among .tbB
ertlcles largely selected for Christmas pres
ents. These of horn ore ornamented with
silver filigree work , while the sliver vessela
are hand engraved with various designs.
The most eoinomlcal evening cloak , which
| g at the same tlmo elegant , Is made of
black satin lined with white , finished with a
hood of whlto lace , fastened at'either stdo
with a rosette of colored velvet and a high
collar of roiy fur which may be at band.
Arri.'ng ' Iho new blouse waists for eyenlnu
wear Is ono of white chiffon over yellow
silk. A stiff revcrs of shirred chiffon
adorns one side of the front and throe lov
ers' knots tn yellow velvet are at Interval *
on the other.
Italian red , much like the tint of the heart
of a Jocque rose , Is a marked favorite In the
brilliant winter Hut of colors , and cloth
gowns of this becoming shade , with sable ,
mink , otter or fox-band collar and reven
by way of trimming , are considered among
the smartest of the winter styles for youth
ful wearers.
All sorts of quaintly flounced polon lse ,
redtagote * , uewmarkets , camlaards and prln-
cessa-ihaped cloak dresses , with loose ,
curved fronts and bishop sleeves , prevail
among the unusual variety of winter wraps.
These , however , do not Interfere at all with
the vogue of tbo smart little French jacket *
and short wpen English coats.
The fashion of wearing a whole fox around
the neck Is In form again. In black , white ;
and gray It Is one of < the season's fads end
too head , the feet and tall enough for a
dozen are all there. This sort of a boa In
white fox Is worn , with the evening cloak *
and one of the new and very striking com
binations Is a caracul jacket worn with a
white fox Uje. and muff.
Cook's
Imperial If a delicious win * . -
Champagne