18 THE OMAHA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , NOVEMBER 20 , 1898 ,
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. I
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FASHIONS run TUB
( CnptLvntlnir KovHltn of Home and
Foreign * Uculini ,
NEW YOHK. Nov. 18. The dressmaker
f
who. by taking thought , can add an Inch
to feminine stature la a captain In her art ,
and French modlrle * assure UB t hoy. have
achieved this desideratum b/ rutting the
front breadths of skirts vyy long. It Is
quite wonderful what n eUuteuIng cttect n
Tow ground scraping tjcbta of cloth will
have. as the usual ctothoi carnival during
liorso show week bora witness. Women
'who. In golfing pottle DAIS arc girlishly s.nall ,
'seemed stately as Dianas In their cloth and
fur fli-lto with skirts no long they we.ro
obliged to save thslr noses by holding tl.o
front widths clear of tba r.irth. Indeed It
Is necessary to acquire n long flowing glid
ing step In order 'to ' carry these lengthy
drapcrlca with good style , and to procure
the proper fall of starchle.is giase the crisp ,
frilly petticoat has teen cast aside.
No woman who makes any pretensions to
good taste Is any longer accompanied In
her movements by the nllUun , aid , uncertain
rustling of taffeta. The musical "wish-
wish" of ellk friction against silk Is hcaid
no more and If you had aakcd any of the
wcfl dressed creatures who fluttered In
smaller but none the less modish crowds
last -week about the cqulno favorites , how
aha achieved the bushed clinging of her
cloth or atln garments , she would have
told you of her crepa-do-chlnc under petti
skirt U of course
coat. The creps-dc-chlne
a French Idea , developed Orel for the benefit
of Lady Kcrso. hitherto Mrs. George Curzon ,
who has ordered a very exqulalte trousseau
In which to make her viceregal debut In
Calcutta. It was only a question of a few
days when this detail of comfort and beauty
crossed the ocean and already they are
blushing and paling In a score of colors
In the shops where wealth and beauty pro-
euro their plumage.
For n VIcercKnl Dclmt.
For Lady Keleo they were made as long
the skirts under which they were to be
worn and of the heavy silk crepe with a
'dash of wool In It that possesses both body
qua a surprising amount of warmth. The
majority of the Imrortcd ones are for day
wear of black , old blue and rrsln brown and
elaborately cmbr IdereJ. In most delicious
pale tints they are made up for the even
ing and on them are applied trails of yellow
and scarlrt velvet poppies. Now , a crepe-
de-chlno petticoat may seem a rank ex
travagance. but any woman who will buy
and -wear the best crepe lu the market and
trim her skirt with flounces of Russian nrt.
orpamentcd with lines of bcbe ribbon , will
MJoy an amazlnp amount of hard wear In
It. , The Parisian skirts aru nil made to UP
perfectly flat about the waist and hips c t
BO' deeply gr red from the knees down thai
at the foot they measure flvo or six yards
In width.
Another Impression that horse show-
week left on those whoso souls arc turned
to beauties of raiment. nd who haunted
the tanbark ring In the morning , wcro the
numbers of fair visitors who. when they
unhooked their coats or capes for fresh air.
ihownd ( Ilk waists with flat -necks. It Is
Just as well to premlso by saying that jou
tnyst bp distinctly young , and columnar ,
throated to cut off your basque collar , and
d'uilng the horsy Show weak many , , collar-
"
ICM bodices o great comeliness > were"ob-
wrved at thetjthcater. They seem Indis
putably to sutt".wcll with the hatlsssfs'ole
Jnwhlch women" are now obliged to/Attend
tbp play , and a certain Impression of , the
full dress Is loaned by the display of white
throats. ,
A pretty Dowered satin dressy waist , hav
ing * laco. front " , and being judiciously eu-
hatlced with "fur , Is brought up flat as far
as ; the neck , and the wearer la apt to wind
d yard of- mock poarlt where the choking
collar used to be or encircle the slender neck
with several rows of deeply pink coral
beads. In fact , a whole aeries of old and
new style necklets and dog collars have
been called out by this fashion , for no
wqman goes to see horses or her favorite
'
playcrB with a bare throat' . A band of very
extravagantly Jeweled lace rousht with a
handsome bro ohe , an endless very fine
chain of gun mctnl , punctuated with Rhine
pcoblea or a ecarf of chiffon wound about
and tied In a big bow In the rear , nro among
ths notions that serve as detachable collau
fof these waists.
fimnrt Mornlnn Collnra.
This discussion leads naturally to mention
Of another method of topping off mornlnn
Bul s as signified at the recent show. The
women who still cling to tailor-made tradi
tions wore neat , 'high white linen c liars
with their dark cloth suits. The collars
had long points In front that fo'dcd down
flat over the -ties , while a circular comb-
hofped piece of linen stood up , crisp as a
Illy leaf , back of the oars. Around such a
collar was wound In every case a scarf
made of bias and surah , cut very wide , very
long and of some delicate tint. Twice about
the neck thla was drawn and tied In front
in. a double bow-knot with arrow head nds
falling nearly to the waist line.
Borne women used with the above men
tioned collars long scarfs of Liberty ellk ,
with Persian pattern ends , and some used
a broad satin ribbon tied In a wide bow
under the chin , a bow without ends , and Its
middle made fast by a brooch.
The exceeding length of sleeves was
everywhere emphasized by the gowns that
uch women as Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbllt ,
Jr. , beautiful Mrs. Norman Whltehouse and
equally lovely Mrs. Dan-a Gibson wore.
Their Sleeves were cut to fall beyond the
knuckle * , else long cuffs and \ery wide
ones , too , were set on to almost conceal the
tia-nd. Down near the wrist these women's
sleeves gripped their arms closely and U la
evident that 'before ' very long those who
possess really handsome arms will bo wear-
Ing1 sleeves to display every contour from
shoulder to fingers. At one of the early
autumn dinners sleeves wrought wholly of
very open-worked Jet and .of pearl , or colored
passamcnterle made their appearance and
promise to take the place ot the long-loved
lace and chiffon sleeves.
Nevr Shoes ,
The rong gowns aforementioned need not
be regarded as In the least obliterating on
the charms of well modeled extremities.
Pretty shoes and slippers In fact have never
been so strangely conspicuous as this sea
son , when trailing front breadths must be
hold high when the wearer takes th least
ox rclsc. li Is lo be observed that cloth
topped shots are having a return of feminine
patronage and that colored patent leather
vamps are absolutely the only kind for dress
occasions. Illak varnish Is ot course al
ways standard , but In the pretty vagaries
ot fuhlou f dark Invisible green patent
leather Is much used , as well as a deep rich
rtd. Born * dainty carriage shots have black
cloth tops , red patent feather ramps and
small close-set buttons of Jet. Only a very
Irreproachable- can look well In such
dreislag , U Is true , biit the novelty ot the
thing ls dellghtfur , Just s the slippers that
bow their high heels and toes covered with
t ekln of gun metal Into which tiny diamonds
mends are sunk have their place In the
toilets of dancing belli * .
HrUllsmt for' ' the Ball ROOM.
Block" nets and. chiffons powdered with
dots t colored silk and velvet AM among
the prettlnesscs that appeal to the dancing
sluterhood , White and black ballroom goods
continue to glitter with spangles and show
In addition an elaborate decoration of nar
row bands of bright raveled ellk , which Is
really a llHputlan fringe. Dowagers who
frequent ballroome display thclr diamonds
to advantage with their gowns of Mirage
velvet , a changeable and deceptive goods
that Is also much used for decorative addi
tion on cloth suits. When made up In cair-
Ing gowns some of these velvet fcklrts are
buttoned up the front from waist to hem ,
and as eccentric as this may Bound , the re
sult Is Interesting and decorative. Not a
few very luxurious nkatlng dresses , made to
button up the front thus , arc edged with fur ,
and the upper half Is cut In the form of the
Russian cossack's sheepskin coat with enor
mously long detachable fur cufTn. These
cuffs In reality are muffs , when pulred down
over the hand
llrldnl Splendor * .
Paris has not quite exhausted the possi
bilities of < the spangle as an ornament , for
th loveliest wedding dress yet seen was
made In Paris for the duke of Manchester's
bride and consists of whlto satin over
worked In the most gloriously opalescent
shell sequins Interspersed with pearls. For
the duchess of Hamilton , whoso daughter
was recently married , a beautiful fawn-
colored cloth was made on the Rue de la
Palx and adorned with epangles of clotn.
These spangles were not laid on flat , but
were caught down on one uldo and went to
form the clusters of grapes In vine em
broidery that rverran skirt and wals : .
A similar gown In oyster-gray satin has
been sent to New York In the wedding
wardrobe of the young woman who Is to
.wed the Baroness do Selllere's son , and with
1 ( what in feminine vernacular Is
kronn as "a duck of a bon
net. " It consists of two pearl-gray
tulle rrscn , each containing fifty huge petals
and every petal edged with silver spangles.
u IUTO theoo two giant blossoms come to
gether a tall , gray esprey spouts high , and
when pinned on top an airily pompadoured
head this Is dignified by the name of a tne-
atcr bonnet. Two wings and a knot of vel
vet also assume this name , while a certain
amount of Interest centers In the bats that
bavo flaring brims made half of jet and
half of closely massed roses , and as often M
not such hats have crowns made of em
broidered and perforated leather.
From time to time leather la taken very
seriously as an ornamentation by dress
makers and milliners , but never has It
played as leading a role as this winter. It
Is not the hide of anything tougher than a
cat or a kid that the modistes use , though
they do say the new embroidered va-Ue ,
cuffs , belts , .collars , etc. , arc made of fawn
skins , tanned and drcsse.1 by the Indiana.
Whatever animal does supply the skin Is a
matter of small moment when one considers
the beauty of a toft black leather coat vest
beautifully worked In strel beads , or a snow
whlto glice leather carriage coat , offset with
wonderful embroidery In brown end tur
quoise silk and garnished with lace and
sable down the front. A deal of leather Is
applied tin dresses as an open worked em
broidered goods , fancifully cut out to show
a brilliant silk .or velvet beneath. Black
sueao thickly worked with dull blaclTbesds
and trimmed with lynx forms the trrst
modish mourning coat or cope U Is possible
to procure.
Illnntrntlnna of Fanhlon * .
The type of houE gown that covers all
the exactions of the feminine heart accom
panies the text of this week In two tones ot
brown. The cloth Is a rough zlWllne In leaf
brown , veined -In the moat delicate rhccks of
lilac , while a braid of mixed lilac and brown
curia gracefullv about the cdgrs of waist and
skirt. The deepest resin b-own velvet forms
the flounce on the skirt , the tails of the
basque , the cuffs and collar facing , and of
palo lilac Liberty silk tbo vest and cravat
are formed.
nreen Is tbo uV.mlnnnt tone In the dinner
tnllc't dlsphyed , though the dress Itself is a
a arl prey satin cloth. Green apancks edg'
the Bourbon flounces of the skirt , follow the
rotoco patterns of embroidery on the hip ?
nd at the foot and glitter on the bodice.
These are 'toe new pearl shell spinglps
colored to give out delightful opile'cent s"a
stroen tones , and velvet to exactly mitch thi >
rtpnnrlea fills the top of the bodice and en
circles the waist MARY DEAN.
WELL-HHED INDIAN MAIDENS.
TTVO Chrrokpe Olrl Wlin Would DP
nt Homo In Society.
The average man's Impression of an In
dian woman Is that she la unkempt , of coarse
appearance , entirely lacking In all that par
takes of refinement and generally tending
toward still deeper degradation. It Is un
fortunately too true that the picture will flt
too many females of the rcd-sklnncd race ,
but not all by any means. , Notable as ex
ceptions are the Chorokco women , two fair
specimens of whom are pictured. They are
Jennlo Thomas and Ellen Thomas ot Chel-
car I. T. In the Cherokee language their
names nro respectively Wlsh-na-wa-ga and
Lak-no-va-lo , daughters of two well-to-do
members of the prosperous Cherokee tribe.
Both the girls are well educated , of more
than average good looks , vivacious and gen
erally well fitted to take their places In
pollto society. This they are In no mood to
do , preferring the freedom and unconven-
tlonallty of life as they flnd it In the place
of their nativity. The women of their tribe
are almost always of flno figure and graceful
carriage , 'tho only particularly noticeable
feature that perhaps detracts In a measure
from their good looks being the high cheek
bones that are apparent In even the six
teenth-blood Indians. The voice of the In
dian girl Is never hoarse or coarse , but low
and musical ,
During the last quarter of a century the
number of whlto men who have married
girls belonging to the flvo civilized tribes has
been astonishing. It must bo remembered
that a white man who marries an Indian
girl is generally adopted Into the trlbo to
which his wife belongs , and thereupon re
ceives many of the privileges of the other
Its study nndJs _ considered one ot the bent
authorities outside ot Egypt and other lands
of the occult : '
"Wo do not catm ) ptmlangology as a
branch of palmistry , " this authority ex
plained , ' 'but os a separate and distinct
science , and very much m6ro accurate than
any other for reading a person's natural
characteristic's. The fines of the palm
change , as every student of palmistry will
admit ; eomo deepen , while others disappear
altogether. Such Is not the case In plinl-
angology. From the earliest Infancy up to
old ago the lines remain the same. They
jiro easily recognized by any ono who will
lake the trouble to look at the Impressions
under an ordinary magnifying glass. The
lines of each person's finger tips are as dis
tinct and as distinctive as the features on
their face.
"Can I glvo any general rules as guides
for reading those lines ? Well , that Is hard
to do , and general rules are ordinarily very
unsatisfactory , for tbo. reason that , as I have
remarked , no two pcoplo have the same
finger 'markings. Out I think I can safely
cay that curved tines on the fingers arc lu-
dlcatlvo of amiability and a destro to please ;
straight lines chow Indifference to the feel
ings nnd opinions of others1 and a deter
mination to have their own way ; crooked
lines , well , I should advlso you to bo very
chary about trusting a person whose Im
pressions showed up crooked under the mag
nifying glare. Such people as a rufe have
the characteristics of a * fox nnd I have known
them to closely resemble snakes.
"I have examined the finger Impressions
of more than 100 confessed murderers and
have found , with but ono exception , a well
defined cross on the middle finger of the
right hand. Sometimes that tell-tale.mark
appears In the middle ot the finger and at
Others farther to the left or right.
"How about the ono exception ? Well , I
cannot explain that. I was told he had con
fessed the crime , and I try always to avoid
bclngi fanatical as to any of my Idcaa , go I
try to ballovo it is because I b ave not mas-
In the wny. There A\asn't any place to put
It and I didn't want to 'buckle ' It around mo
because It looked eo so sort of mannish ,
you know , nnd It would slide out of the
scat , and so after a tow times I quit carry
ing It.
"I've had to face some pretty bad weather
sometimes when It would have been picas-
antcr to stay at homo. Last winter there
were bad storms of snow- and wind and
slfct , but I wrapped up warm nnd drovu
fast nnd It wasn't so very bad. In fact I
rather liked the storms. It's pretty good
tun to come Tattling along through the r.iln
or snow as faEt as your horses can travel.
U makes you feel alive clear through. More
so 'than ' the hot and dusty days last summer
did , Dut It wasn't any hotter on the road
between Dcnlo and Andrews than It was
anywhere else nnd not nearly as uncom
fortable as It would have been Inside a
schoolhouso.
"I think 1'vo got a pretty nlco Job. I like
It better than anything cUe I could possibly
do and I mean to hold on to It as , long as
Undo Sam will let me. "
Aliont ( ircnt I"olk.
Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbllt discharges n
servant at a moment's notice , but In ndi'l-
tlon to her wages presents her with flU.
Forty servants Is the average number em
ployed by the Astore , Vamlorbllts nnJ i thor
multl-nillllonatres , with an average pay roll
of $1,000 a month.
Becky Jones , the HnmmerEley servant
who went to Jail with her cot nnd parrot
rather than betray family secrets , Is now
In England living a life of en&o on the
bounty of the duchess of Marlborough.
The Rockefeller servants are on duty cer
tain hours , with ccrtr.ln hours for them
selves , and they remain Indefinitely , none
over leaving of his own accord. Very many
marry , and their children , too , remain as
part of the family bclo'v tt.ilrs.
Mrs. Oliver P. II. Dclmont prefers men
servants of herculean proportions. Her
new footman Is about seven feet high and
otherwise in proportion. He Is thoroughly
English was discovered In England , In fact.
Ho Is also thoroughly trained and powders
his hiilr.
There are 1,500 people upon the German
BODICES SEEN AT THE HORSE SHOW ,
njembera. Some people call these whites
"squaw" men , but Just the same they are
among the beet cltl/ens of the nation.
X7HARACTBH FINGBIt TIPS.
An Ancient Science Revived by Stu
dent' of Today.
Phalangology is a new science , at least its
devotees claim that it is now to this coun
try , ' though 'they ' say it has been ftnown
and' followed in Egypt and other'countries
for many centuries. Its age , where it bad
its origin or who brought It over to this
country may be a mooted question , but to
readers of Pudd'nhead Wilson it Is Ilia-
meeting an old friend In a jiow dress. Tor
tt was by phalahg-logy , or marks of thp finer -
? er tips , that Pudd'nhead was enabled to
vln his first case In court and to save from
the gallows one at least of those extraor
dinary twins.
Pudd'nhcad's method , as every one will
remember , was to take the repressions on
narrow strips of glass which he first runbd
through his hair for the purp"so of obtain
ing a thin coat of natural oil. Strips ol
gloss are still used , but Instead of the 'oil
from the hair they are covered by a delicate
film of light smoke , which , It la claimed , re
ceives and holds the impressions of the most
delicate lines.
As for the claims ot the science Itself ,
perhaps it Is best to give them In-the words
ot a woman who has devoted much time to
AN EVENING TOILETT B IN PINK AND SILVER.
A , >
crl\
tered all the details of the science , nnd not
that the law haa forced a confession from
an Innocent man.
"Did I ever see that mark of Cain on n.
baby's impression ? Ye , but about such
marks I never speak. Neither do I tell
when I see an early death In an impres
sion ot any great calamity , for I am of the
opinion that as the lines on the finger
tlpa are unchangeable , a also are the events
they , Indicate.
"Can I tell * when a woman will marry or
when she will die an old maid ? Now , that
Is hard to say , for there are lines which sig
nify success , and nonsuccess , happiness and
unhapplncss , and as both married and uh-
marrted women shore these alike , It Is gen
erally Impossible to tell to what particular
event or series of events they relate. Nor
can I always tell when I have the impres
sions of great persons before mo unless
there has been some ono or more very
marked events in their lives.
"Do I consider the science hard to learn ?
Not as much so as palmistry. It takes
study , deep study , but there are not many
rules , and the lines .are very character
istic. " .
SIIC DIUVKS A MAIL COACH.
Western fi'lrl Who Prefer * Tlmt Cnll-
Inir to Teaching School ,
Three times a , wcek a buckb-ard comes
Into Andrews , Ore. , carrying a United States
mail pouch and driven by a young woman.
Her name Is Rose Sturgeon and she makes
the thirty-flve-mllo trip between Andrews
and Denlo and back on alternate days. She
Is ono of the few women who servo Uncle
Sam by carrying his mall over lonely roads
In 'the west , The road she travels dally
leads down through a big , barren valley In
southeastern" Oregon from the Tillage ot
Dcnlo to 'Andrews , where the stage con
nects with the road running from Burns
south to McDermltt , Nev. U Is very lonely
and unfrequented and ono may ride along
It for hours and see not a human being.
There are borax mines In the region nnd a
few lone ranches and mining camps lying
bk from the road.
Miss Sturgeon Is barely 20 years old , a
wholesome and healthy looking girl and a
fair type of the best feminine product of the
western mountains. She Is tanned , as Kip
ling has put It "with the tan of the girl who
doesn't care , " but the brown face which
looks out from her sailor hat or her fur cop
Is good and pleasant to see. Asked how she
happened to take up so unusual an occupa
tion * she replied :
"Why , I needed to do something to earn
money , and a friend of my father's asked
mo in fun one day how I would like to
carry the mall to Andrews. I coasldeied It
a Joke at first , but afterward I got to think
ing about it and I concluded I'd rather do
that than teach school , which I had been
planning to do. I've always been used to
horses and to driving and I'm not timid
about being alone , and co I asked htm to get
the Job for me If ho could , nnd ho did , and
I've been driving the mall stage now for
almost a year.
"I don't mind Its helng a lltUe bit lonely.
Yr-u see , I was born In this country and
I've always been used to the mountains and
the big , barren plains and the wide valleys
and to not seeing many people , and so I
suppose I don't mind driving along alone
as a girl might who bad lived In a big
town or a city , Sometimes I have a passen
ger on the stage , or mayoe two or three ,
and I have had as many as half a dozen ,
but mcst of the tirao I go alone.
VI am , fond of horses and my team Is
company for me and I like being outdoors
so well that I don't think I'd ever feel lonely
as long as I could see all outdoors and the
sky up above , Afraid ! Why , no ! What
ever should I te afraid of ? Nobody could
possibly want to hold me up because there's
never money enough In that mall bag to
warrant any road agent In taking the risk.
"I don't carry a revolver or anything ot
the sort , I did at first because my mother
wanted mo to. But the thine \ > as always
emperor's list of employes , Including 3" )
women servants , who are engaged In look
ing after the twenty-two royal palaces and
castles that belong to the crown. Their
wages are small. The women receive not
moro than $12 a month and the men serv
ants from * 13 to ? 23 a month.
No servant Is ever dismissed from any
of Queen Victoria's royal palaces. To this
Is attributed the freedom of gossip about
her majesty's household arrangements.
When a marriage occurs the couple la usu
ally provided with a small post , carrying
with it a residence. Mcst of the royal
lodges are occupied by couples who have
served her majesty- for many years.
The servants and officials employed at
the Whlto House , no matter In what ca
pacity , wear , no distinctive mark nnd the
attendance Is spoken of as "slouchy. " So
cial gatherings , on this account , are thought
to lack dignity. No mistress of the White
House * , however , seems to think It wise to
disturb the existing order of things.
The court of Pope Leo XIII comprises
1,000 persons. Thcro are twenty valets ,
120 prelates , 170 privy chamberlains , six I
chamberlains , 300 extra honorary chamber
lains , 130 ( Supernumerary chamberlains , '
thirty officers of the noble guard , sixty I
guardsmen , fourteen officers of the Swiss
guard nnd police guard , seven honorary'
chaplains , twenty private secretaries , ten'
stewards and masters of the horse nnd sixty
doorkeepers.
The rarest maid servant of all Is the cook
employed by Mm. James Blalne of Washing
ton. She Is a model cook , versed In French ,
Italian and English modes of cookery ; she
Is also a very grand lady , dressing In tailor-
made , silk-lined costumes of expensive ma
terial. Wherever eho goes following the
family also go two love birds In a gilt ,
ribbon-adorned cage ; two kittens , which
are never without their bows of gay ribbon
about their necks and their crocheted
worsted dolls to play with now ones being
A BLESSING TO WOMEN
The Misses Bell's Complexion Tonic
ABSOLUTE PROOF OF ITS WONDERFUL EFFECT. /
Read the Following Unsolicited Endorsements.
Philadelphia.
The MIsBW mil , TCo. 78 Fifth Ave ,
Dear Ladles : For several yearn my fnce
was covered v.lth a mass of pimples nnd
blackheads. Two months ago I purchased
a bottle of your Complexion Tonic fro-n
Partridge & Richardson of this city ; I
have used now In all three bottles or the
Tonic nnd I linvo not a Blgn of n pimple or
blackhead on my face. 1 can never thank
you eulllclently for the gfeat service your
remedy has done me , for 1 had about de
spaired. I Hlinll recommend your Com
plexion Tonlu whenever 1 see any ono uf-
tllcted us 1 wasi. Sincerely yours ,
Heading , Pa ,
The Misses Dell , No. 78 Fifth Ave. , New
York City.
Door bad It a : Six years ago a breaking
out appeared at my linger cndw. A few
months later this same breaking out ap
peared on my fnce. The doctor pro
nounced it Eczema and gave me both in
ternal and external treatment. At times
I thought 1 detected some Improvement ,
but the disease would again break out with
renewed vigor. Last March Mrs. Barnes ,
a patron of yours , Induced mo to try your
Complexion Tonic. 1 used your remedy
Btcnully until August 20th , when my race
anil hands were free from any disease. 1
have not used the Complexion Tonic Hlnce
( hat date nnd tliero has been no return of
the Eczema. My gratitude U too deep for
words and I hope that you will bo blessed
frequently required. A bicycle Is also ono
of this lady's belongings.
Frill * of Knnlilun.
A Mauser bullet of gold tipped with a
diamond is ono of the novelties in hatpins.
Navy hat bands , sewed together with the
gilt lettering prettily arranged , make pretty
sofa pillows. >
Reddish purple velvets are the favorites
In millinery and in velvet blossoms. The
coloring Is exquisite.
Qun metal has taken a firm hold on fash
ionable society. A chatelaine with all the
trinkets of the metal Is very popular.
A novelty In silver is a pitcher of silver ,
gilt , with a lining of dull green glass. The
side of the pitcher is biol-.cn , allowing the
gloss to show.
Heavy satins in violet , nasturtium yellow ,
burnt orange and n superb shade of Italian
red are used for linings on fur pelerines ,
coats , Jackets and muffs.
Never before were so many cold weather
Jackets , blouses and coats made with open
cutaway fronts , showing waistcoats , plas
trons , etc. , of airy summer-like textiles.
An artistic piece of work IB a lace pin ,
made of mother-of-pearl , carved to repre
sent a grotto , an angel protecting the en
trance. The whole is surrounded with diamonds
mends and emeralds.
Bright colored velvet is a conspicuous
feature of millinery this season and to thla
are added all sorts of unique designs In orna
ments of gold , steel and rhineutones , com
bined with pearls and vatlous colored Jew
els.
Three-cornered felt hats are very much
the fashion , especially with tailor gowns.
The brims are covered with velvet In a
contrasting color or pipings of satin and a
rosette with a quill la the only trimming
necessary.
Handorchlcfj embroidered with a color
seem to bo coming into favor , or rather
fashion , again. Some have tiny scallops
embroidered with color , but the prettiest
fancy Is a small knot of violets In their
natural color , embroidered in ono corner.
The colonial tea set , which takes every
china-loving woman's heart1 by storm , has a
creamy ground and rich gold decorationn
picked out very delicately with color. Cups
to match are lightly fluted , slightly flaring
and of true egg-shell thinness.
Ono of the very fashionable models for an
elegant tailor costume Is of tnc nnest , llgh'-
A VELVET AND WOOL FROCK.
for the great good you arc doing. Crate *
fully yours ,
Scranton. Pa.
The Misses Hell , No. 78 Fifth Ave. , New
\oilt City.
Dear I.miles : Please send me one mort
bottle of your wonderful Complexion Tonic.
I cannot upcnk all 1 think In HH praise.
After the birth of my ilrst child my com
plexion , wh.ch had previously been coed ,
became sallow , blotchy and muddy , with it
moth natch on each cheek. My phjslcUn
said that thl.s would PUSH uwny In a llttla
time , but It did not. For ycnrs I doctored
without success , until chance placed your
advertisement In my hnndi. Your Com
plexion Tonic bus done what physicians and
Internal treatment fntled to do ; my skin li
now as smooth nnd free from nny discolor- ,
utlon as it was before my marriage. I
mean never to bo without your great rem
edy and will use It constantly , HH It agree : *
with my skin so well. My husband also
encloses a letter * of thanks to you. I am , v
very truly yours , mg
New Hnvrn , Conn.
The Mloses Hell , No. 78 Fifth Ave. , New
York City.
Dear Ladles : Kindly send me twc morn
bottles of your Complexion Tonic. The
freckles which I had from childhood have
all vanished and my skin Is HO clea. that
my frlmds remark It. I want these two
bottles for a friend who Is visiting me.
Yours very truly ,
THE MISSES BELL'S COMPLEXION TONIC Is nn external application , which
when applied to the Bkln , has a must cxhlUamtliig effect upon the cuticle , absorb *
Ing nnd currying oft all Impurities , which the blood by its natural action Is con
stantly forcing to the surface ot the skin. It is to the skin what a vltallilru ;
tonlc Is to the blood and nerves , a kind oof new life that Immediately exhlllaratea
and strengthens wherever applied. Its tonic effect Is felt almost immediately ,
and It speedily banishes forever from the skin freckles , pimples , blackheads , moth
patches , wrinkles , liver spots , roughness , olllness. eruptions nnd decelerations of
any kind. The Complexion Tonic can bo secured nt our resident agents , whose ad-
dr = ss appears below , or cnn bo had of the Misses Bell direct , from their Now York
office. NO. 78 Fifth Avenue.
The Misses Bell have plnced the price of their wonderful Complexion Tonic nt
tl per bottle , anil this amount enclosed In a letter addressed to them will securft
ono bottle , nocunly packed In plain wrapper , by cxprtas ; safe delivery guaran
teed. The Misses Bell's valuable book"Secrets of Beauty , " will be mailed to any
address on request. Ladles can address the Mlssen Bell on all matters of tha
Complexion and Hygiene in the strictest confidence nnd satisfactory advlco will b
given free of charge.
Address all communications and send all orders to the MISSES BELL , No. 71
Fifth Avenue. New York City.
Ladles residing In this city can have any ot the Misses Bell's preparations at
all druzclota.
est French broadcloth , the color Jet blajk ,
the lining black or violet silk , the 'rim
ming special designs In silk cord passemen
terie en applique placed upon tbo skirt , coat
and sleeves.
Some of the new evening wraps nro up-
plcmentcd by a hood lined with white PI
some delicate shade , and worn as a head
covering. It may bo frilled with Ince to
make a pretty frame for the face or cut
with a point which fastens over the high
coiffure , but in cither case It is vastly be
coming.
White broadcloth Is much used for brldes-
I maids' gowns this season. At a fashionable
church wedding last week auch costumes
were worn with black velvet picture hat ,
into which touches of deep orange velvet
wcro Introuduccd among the drooping sable
( Plumes. Bouquets of jellow chrysanthemum *
I tied with yellow satin ribbon gave a pleae-
Ing color note to these pretty bridesmaids'
, frocks.
I Among the winter petticoat * recommended
for durability are those of American eurab ,
lined with watered percallne , with ono < l pp
rufllo of the silk merely finished with a two-
Inch hem , nnd flve narrow tucks above , An
other style suggested on the merits of Its
wca5'nB ' qualities is a skirt of silk moreen
with four or flvo narrow taffeta frills at
the hem. The moreen comes In a variety
of colors and this material will outwear
any three skirts made of taffeta alone.
There is again a decided fancy for drefls
buttons of every color , size and style , and
on many of the new display cards nt ths
button counters nro shown three dlsttncl
sizes for the skirt , bodice and Jacket. Many
ofjhp smallest buttons nro llko the fines !
gold-framed Jewels In their delicate beaut
of color and design nnd very many of 'ha
now styles from Paris unJ Vl.-nna nre sel
llko the most expensive gems In low mount-
, f" ? ' ? ba ? 80ld. ' fro'tctl BllVPr OI" ' -
cut steel. Jet
, opal , enamel in artistic col
orings nnd old bronze buttons set In rlvcte-l
points framing dainty miniature medallions
profiles in cameo , etc. , nro familiar stylei
tnis season.
Feminine PenonaU.
Anna M. Sackett of Washington.
W s. . has revoked legacy of
a. $5,000 to Car
roll college In that place bccauee the trui-
SSU' ' ? n P7mttt'nK ' the students to
changed i 'ibe ' y1" " 0nB gaa8
"ln,5 ° r.the orfe'n ' of "Alice In Won
Mrs. Hargravca , born Allc3 Slddell ,
? y , 8b WM the orlsnn | > Alice , her older
Bister. Mrs. Skeno. "Prlma" and Edith th
youngest , was "Tertla. " The story was * told
on river cxcurelons to Nunehom and QOQ-
stow near Oxford.
The nomination for prosecuting attorney
of Ogerniwr county Michigan , of Mrs. Mania
was V ° il Wfl\purcl ? a Jok0' but " 'nee ' she
declares , whllo everybody
that ' she will ' tor , < 7ovc' > fr ° n > their "urW
administer tbt office. She Is
young , good-looking and bright. Attorney
General Fred A. Maynard says that she win
not be permitted to tnko the oath until toe
supreme court gives permission.
American girls , according to Dean Braltn
of Barnard college , nro growing taller with
startling rapidity. Bryn Mawr haa kept sti.
tlstlco for twenty years and the figures In
dlcato an Increase In the height of studonti
of two or three Inches. The average height
of the girl of85 was flve feet W Sa
and of88 flvo feet four Inches. It IB now
five feet six Inches. The students ut Vassar
are reported to bo taller than In any we" !
vious year. '
Another of our rich American
women la
HTrtCThIUilCrgaged to nn Englishman of
title. The list
goes on increasing , and th
wonder never seems to cease. Many ner.
sons flnd It dlflleult to understand
wvs
Harper's Bazar the preference of womw
for exalted stations , but they forget nitn
gether the horizon Vhlch
a tit 1 open * ? d
her. Thcro aro. In most ca s , the great -s.
Ute to preside over , the houses to . rul
bouses which are often centuries
old , anfl
therefore rich 'in thows traditions
and o d
custcms which no new country can know
Then there Is the political life to which
HIM entitle a man. and with that life there
IB the coining lu contact with
many minds
'
with the possibility of being herself 0w'r
nmong thm. To the woman of highly !
dewed mind nothing can take the place of
companionship with a great Btnte.man. anti
those who have enjoyed U at Washln ton
flnd a strange dearth In their lives w"
forcc' hU8band or
linnkleif * Arnica aiilve ,
THE BEST SALVE In the world for
Brul&ea Bores. Ulcers. Salt llhiui.
Sores. Tetter , Chapped Honda. Chilblain/
Corns and nil Skin Eruption. , and pMltlvelr
et-res Piles , or no pay required , a I. ituar
anteed to B ve perfect satisfaction or
8 25 CCDIB p