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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 6, 1898)
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN , runs AND LACUS. Mj-le nnil ( Innllty of tliu Favorite * I tinItcnlin of I'nHlilmi. NEW YOnK. Nov. 3. Self-effacement ' the gospel of her who must bo fashtonabl arrayed. Not self-effacement In the altrt latlc sense , but with tbo view to reducln too solIJ flesh to a mlnhnum , The little lad wo tips the scales at ninety or at one hue droil ami ten pounds , who Is a bundle i glim svclt bones , who Is as shapeless as broom-Htlck and pliant as a whalcbani whose neck fs like a serpent's and v\hos head Is small as a robin's , Is the wonia wo shows' off' the prevailing gowns an neckclothes , coats and capes , furs ami hal to their very greatest advantage. Flesh th winter'assumes the proportions of a crlm and never has the plump and the shot woman had stronger Inducements to banttnj cxerclso and powerful Bta'y laics t"uan'JU : now. Itummnge aTiout In the furriers' emporium and see the oft repeated truth that cverj thing fluffy and llouncy Is the mode , for o every hand the long haired furs ore commended mended/ Drown bear , , black cub bear , arctl cub and above all cinnamon 'bear ' ore oul soiling the flat skins , ns they arc callei Arctic cub Is a brilliant white fur havln hair'two or three Inches long and of a slti Ktilarly dazzling finish. As with nil cub ft the down or fleece that grows short and thlc on the skin Is eoft as raveled silk and b < cause cubs are not often come by In th polar regions the price of cub fur Is qull equal to that of arctic fox plus' the value new and fashionable article Is sure to pqs scss. The tall collars and fronts of op'er cloaks are lined with this snowy lleeco an long round 1)033 are made of It to thro1 over hare shoulders. The Only Yellow KUP In Favor. Brown cub necklets , long boas and stole are adopted on all sides , but the supcrla lively modish and beautiful fur Is that th cinnamon bruin yields to cruel beauty. Thl Is the only yellow fur that has ever foun favor In the eyes of the well dressed , bu to fine Is Ita quality , so tawny gold Its tint Ing , In nn undcr-flcece thick mid soft c purest white , that no wonder an cxceptlo has been made In Its favor. Its thread , a the furriers call It , measures on the bes eklns four Inches In length , so that n mul of It Is a. prodigious affair and n collar of I stands about the neck like a collie's rul when his blood Is up. Eighty-five dollar \Vlll purchase a decent muff and shouldc piece of this Bkln , whllo something more 1 paid for arctic cub and fox. These long-haired animals supply th chief ornamentation for tea gowns and thel fellow lounging Jackets and combing robes Russian gauze , edged everywhere with nar row bands of bear fur , Is among the strlk Ing effects of the season. Fur also plays It role of Importance on chiffon and on lac when a delicate morning robe Is being mail up. More and more fragllely lovely thcs bedroom costumes grow every yeai American women miscall them tea gowns for they will not wear them at the tea-pour Ing hour save In the sanctity of their owi apartments. English women who com homo at'G o'clock from fashionable labors d Joyfully patronize their tea wrappers , re celvo the casual guest of cither sex In th luxurious case of flowing brocade and lace but her American sister has not yet scrcwei up her courage to that point. More Is th pity , for no gorgeous dinner toilets are mor. luxuriously lovely than these creations o Jetted loco , fur , crepe , brocade and -wha not else. The Incc Jacket. The woman who does not don a gown n tea tlmo now often contents herself , If shi Is obliged to admit callers , with a dark satli Bklrt , a bodice of some soft , pale silk am then over It all she throws a lace Jacket. I Is shaped like a redlngoto oftenest. hangi open In front or catches with a couple o jeweled buttons across the bust , drops to tin hips , knees or feet , has long , rather closi sleeves and Is made of chantllly black 01 whlto renaissance or two laces combined Sometimes the Jacket la short In tbo bad and very long In front or the lengths an reversed. Occasionally tiny sequins follov the outlines of the lace pattern , but whatcvoi the arrangement It Is safe to say that hei majesty of Sheba nor Madame Popea herseli over wore a more royally extravagant loung' Ing dress than this. Speaking of lace calls up a catalogue o Bomo very smart and original weaves latelj put forth on the counters , and the remark ai well , that any woman Is safe nowadays It wearing machine-made Imitations. It re quires an expert eye to separate the sheer from the goats those days , so closely doei the factory made lace run that which li woven by hand , and only a sentiment and : bulging purse Inspires purchase of the latter It was only to ibo expected that wo wouli have a Cyrano lace and It Is already flaunt Ing everywhere. The net of It Is tea colored the figuring runs rather heavily along thi edge and among small embroidered dot ! spattered over the width of net are sinal balls of bright variegated silk. This Is Jus a pretty trifle , -with a momentary vogue Point gnz and marquise and braid lace an n\uch more deserving of Berlous attention bectxuso they are all strong rivals It clothcslatid. C < iuettlali Flannel retttcnnti. The braid lace appears quite consplcU' ously on underwear , moat especially on thi crateful and comforting little flannel petti' coots that are dished up In many styles foi smart wearers. Most of them are very seu < slblo and serviceable , hung on silk yoki belts , made of delicate rose or clel blue Trench body flannel , and "have " a. narrow llounce with a couple of rows of lace luser < tlon at tbo bottom. More costly and exceedingly pretty onci are made of a whlto flannel that has a sill icesh woven Into It. This mesh appears It the form of a cr po like figuring on thi white ground with J. most oruameutal result Mention must bo made also of the n adder skirts. A layer of rose , white , blue or blacV habutal silk is what they are made of am the quilting Is done In old style dlamoni pattern or In flowery arabesques. Sucl skirts are affected by rhcumatlo women t ( their Infinite comfort and this class o women is also reveling In the use of couv blnatlon or undervcsts alone , woven frorr Australian wool that Is unbleached. Thcsi wool garments are so fine tliat they can bi drawn at least through a fourth finger ring ; they are rich tea yellow In hue and are salt to be warm as sunshine. Another prettj and warmth-giving underwear Is Shetland wool , woven en the principle and pattern o : that old reliable , the Shetland shawl , I.nut Word About Hutu. All fashions , talked or written , still leac up eventually to hats. There are women yei hacking about in their summer hradgeai because they fear to put their fata to thi touch and win or lose thereby. They might however , as well scttlo down to a choice be < tween a enaro of velvet that is called t toque or a nice tidy felt with lifted brla known as a hunter's shape. A toque Is the wlseet Investment if you are Eolpg to have ono best hat , for a woman's velvet toque , like a mini's frock coat , Is de rlscur everywhere. A plctura hat or a shepherdess shape , becoming as they may be , are anachronisms thin season. Some of the corner-stones of hat build ing are antique velvet that has now be come nearly ubiquitous and tulle flowers that bloom In splto of a promise of snow and sleet. Hugo scarlet tulle popples , hav ing every petal edged with small black sequins , tulle roses with silver spangle leaf cdgca and tulle chrysanthemums nod delicately on toquea and theater bonnets. Antique ribbon Is not over-expensive , Its colors are unusually rich and It asserts Itself everywhere , 'bo the hat large or small. ( .row More On the altar of millinery every barn yard fowl Is laying Its plumage , but for all that feathers are more expensive than ever. This Is because In order to secure the finest fcaHher effects artful compositions 'must 'ho ' made by hand. Elaborate breasts and wings are 'manufactured from the pickings of cock and hen breasts and put together again with a dye and shape to simulate the plumage of pheasants , wild water fowl , South American songsters , etc. Fanciful hats with wide brims and stately crowns are made wholly of the smajl guinea fowl feathers , arranged heavy finishing varnish is laid on the leather is decorated. A whlto portfolio will have a monogram and coat of arms burnt Into the skin , a black one Is apt to benr lettering and decoration in gold nnd card cases and purses display similar pretty gar. nlshmont. llltiNtrntloii of I nNliloiiN , A group of toilets very decidedly In time are given in a group this weak , since they are each and every ono for bed room wear. The most conspicuous In the tableau Is a Eo-called tea gown of which the foundation Is straw colored satin brocaded In tiny bouquotH of pink flowers. Yellow lace net over plain yellow silk supplies the front and the folded facade of the upper portion Is bordered with narrow bonds of Alaska snblo. Turning buck from this central front , so to opciik , nre a series of chiffon revcrs , caught on the shoulder and dropping to the foot. There are five revcrs In all on cither lde , each ot > e Is bordered with a satin edged ruffle of chiffon and every one echoes a different tint. By laying grucn on pale yellow , lilac on green , rose on lilac nnd pale blue on top an effect In color Is arrived at that It takes slight stretching of Imagination to accept ruary. This settlement Is , as far as may be , a realization of the brotherhood which Robert Klsmcre founded , and In tto building , general equipment and the pplrlt of Its co rn orkern seeks to embody the Ideals of that hero , ns well as those ot the later heroine , Marcclla. From its first Inception Mrs. Ward herself has been ono of Its moving spirits and Is now Ita honorary secretary. The munificent gift of $00,000 from Pass- moro Edwards , for whom the settlement U named , and smaller donations from the duke ot bed ford anil other friends , enabled Mrs. Ward , with her coadjutors , to achieve this new university settlement in West Central and Northwestern London , which Is to servo similar ends to those of Toynbeo hall and the People's palace In the East end. It was natural that this nowrst settle ment in the old world should bo eager to hear directly from the oldest settlement In the new world and should prrcs Miss Addams Into talking to them of Hull house. On the same evening of her address Mrs. Ward gave the people a talk upon Italy , where she had been for several months col lecting material for her last novel. As a speaker Miss Addams save that Mrs. Ward eeems to suffer somewhat from shy ness and reserve. Her manner is moro or less hesitating and restrained and her de livery locks that splendid fluency of diction that carries ono along so tremendously In her books. She did not talk to the pcoplo of the beauty of Italy to which she Is BO sensitive , of Its nature or art , of which she has such grasp ; but of the every day life of Its every day people. Upon her Introduction In this magnifi cent.home , rich In works of art , In books , in rare collections and In the very atmosphere \\lilch generations of culture bring , and beIng - Ing met by her hostess In a vivid cnslons of her European Irlp vhlch was r - Plato with significant oxpcrlonos. : MOUUU.N DIANAS. Women Hunter * Wli Arc litvftillnw the Wooiln of Mnlitt * . Once again the old guides of Maine nre snorting in disdain. Not only uro the fair huntswomcn flocking into the woods with their husbands nndnhelr fathers , but there are several parties up on the Penobscot waters that are made up wholly ot femi nine shootlMs. Though women have been hunting In the state each full with good success for the last ten years , reports the Lewlston Journal , women have not before this ventured In unless with male escort. These women who are stopping up beyond the Dcpslconneug "dead water" are some very stlf-rollant women from Massachusetts. They work In some ot the stores In a populous city and being spinsters decided to paddle their own canoe this season. One or two reliable guMcs accompany them , nnd according to all re ports they nre doing extremely well. One ot them vouchsafed the Information to a passIng - Ing sportsman that they were doing "n blessed sight bettor than If they had half a dozen men tagging them around to see that they didn't wet their feet or blow their heads off with their rifles. " "Dut , " remarks old Jiid Hawkes , "thero won't bo any spruce gum left In that neigh borhood. Lord , how those women are yank- Ing. They say they have chewed a great deal of gum in their lives but that they never knew what the clear quill was till they came down hero Into the state of Malno. While they're about It they nre going to take back nil they can dig , buy or beg to the city. Even the tall trees can't hide tholr big lumps away from these women. Three of them wear bloomers and have lots LITTLE MAIDS IN GALA GOWNS. with Infinite pains on buckram. The effect is handsome and the price quite startling. New Velvet. Velours chasseur and velours arcento nre the last arrivals In the world of velvet and really this Is a velvet season. As many as ten equally lovely varieties of this weave con be counted In any well stocked shop. The nrgento Is a ellk with ono line of velvet and a space before another fuzzy llttlo strlpw stands up. The chasseur shows bayadere strlpos In alternating short nnd long pllo velvet. All these devices mode for beauty and richness and , ns if these goods were not lively enough In themselves , the dressmakers - makers decorate them with a remarkable new embroidery , flowers nnd leaves. In a puffed silk bordered with bullion braid. Toilet Ilriu-n-IImc. A corner of every feminine heart nnd wardrobe is kept warm in a welcome for inythlng new in the form of now setting fet opera glasses nnd handles for umbrellas. The- excessively dainty woman carries a tiny glass , mounted in gold nnd bonoshell . .owdered with wee gold dots. To harmonize with this coquetry are the shell umbrella handles. Blonde or richly mottled shell , richly carved , form the approved umbrella handle , following In designs the arrange , ment of constellations. The concert or lee. ture-going woman who prefers the handsome and solid fripperies of the frivolous , bears about with her medium hinged German glasses mounted In walrus skin nnd gun metal. Similarly her umbrella handle is bound in this hard rough brown leather , fastened with gun metal. Walrus skin is a newer something than the long-artmlrcd elephant or rhinoceros hide and It la Just ns durable. Card cases and portmoncys , writing pads , etc. , are up holstered with It and in many Instances where the brown hide is used the binding and ornamentation Is done In ivory , a unique and Interesting combination. Glazed leather runs a close rival to those above men- tloned. In white , black , dark blue , dull red and a rich green It appears and before the ns pure opaline. This arrangement thrown much color into the front of this robe , while the rear of it attains the height of origin ality , by having one-half Ita train mode of pale yellow net spangled In black. Whcro the nat train meets the half of brocade a bioad band of richly Jeweled passamenterio runs and the open neck of the gown la made of yellow satin , drawn , without a wrinkle , over the wearer's shoulders. The second gown Is built on a founda tion slip of rich white satin hugging the figure rather closely from neck to heels. Over this Is caught a fur trimmed cloak of apricot French crepe. The cloak's high lace collar falls far down on the shoulders ; under the arms and across the bust the cloak is drawn and fastened by two sable scarfs that hang well to the waist line. The scarfs are completed \.lth heads , In the both of which jeweled tassels arc caught. A close neighbor of this picture of splen dor Is a combing \\rap made from nothing more unusual than an embroidered crcpc do chlno shawl tied kerchlctwlse pver the busf , nud across the picture is displayed a smart flannel dressing Jacket. This little trlflo Is wholly accordion-pleated and Is gar nished with tea colored lace. A suggestion for a lace ovor-Jacko ( . Is given by the remaining figure. The origin of the sketch Is a redlngoto maiJo of white morqul&o lace with graceful forms In chan tllly applied with tasteful Illuminations in silver palettes. MARY DEAN. MUS. Iltl.MlMIKUl AVAlll ) AT 1IOM13. iK Account of a Vlnlt < o n > 'otiil Woman. During an informal chat with Miss Jane Addams a few days slnco she made many delightful refcrcnccH to her recent pieut- Ing with Mrs. Humphrey Ward In London. Astdo from much needed recreation Miss Addams' main purpose in visiting Europe was to study settlement work on its native soil nnd to meet sonio of the great teach ers of modern sociology. She first met Mrs. Ward at the Passmore Edwards settlement , opened only last Feb- satin evening gown , Miss Addams had a momentary fear that she might be in for an ultra-fashionable dinner. Nor did this feeling perceptibly diminish upon being token out to a superbly laid table. Hardly was she seated , "however , before all stress of formality utterly vanished and a rattling fire of brilliant conversation be gan which lifted one upon a plane entlrt-ly above and beyond the sordid or fashionable. Besides Miss Addams , the guests of the evening wcro Jnracs Bryce and Augustus Bcrrlll of "Obiter Dicta" fame. Mr. Bryce took Miss Addams out to dinner and wag forthwith easy , natural , brilliant , Informal nnd delightful. Mr. Ward , a man of extraor dinary learning and culture , could bo noth ing less than n charming host , while Mrs. Ward , though outwardly the natural expo nent ot her conventional English training , Is. according to Miss Addams , the real pro totype of the Impulsive and emotional Mor- cello her enthusiasm nnd sympathies as easily kindled. At one moment she Is the self-repressed woman of the world , and the next breaks into the conversation with the unrestrained impulse ot a child. Miss Addams was , for Instance , talking most earnestly of the condition ot Kansas , whose peculiar hardships and limitations she has very much upon her heart. Whllo acquainting her English listeners with some of its specially hard conditions , Mrs. Ward greatly moved , Interrupted her with the ex clamation : " 0 , Miss Addams , must people in Kansas be wretched , too ? London eecms all that we can bear. " Of the other guest , Augustus Berrlll , Mips Addams says that his conversation was BO distinguished , so brilliant , so shimmering with wit and poetic flashes , that she flt inclined to stop him at oveiy sentence and Implore him to preserve It in permanent form. That it seemed a sheer waste of splen did material to talk such phJuses Instead of keeping them to adorn ono ot his delightful books. Altogether , Miss Addama counts her even ing at MM. Humphrey Ward'i homo as o-ie of the most interesting and memorable 0-3. of muscle and they kin climb anything that comes along , from trees to catamounts. Those women are safe enough. " It Is said thot half the parties that have gone into the Moosehcail rcslou this fall have had women as members. You een , the women have for so many years heard their male friends tell of the ecstatic delights of hunting in the bl Malno woods that their femlntno curiosity has been excited and there has been a veri table clamor to bo allowed to go In. Once In a while there is one woman who finds the trip enough to last her for n lifetime. Thb fun Isn't at all as she has expected It would be. The woods may bo good enough foi the men , but us for her she prefers tht i boulevard and the shopping district. ! Then there are other women who meet the most ferocious weather the Maine woods hove to furnish ; who are drenched every other day to the skin and who get dumped out of a canoe two cr three times Just b > the way of variety. Thcso women go home and tell all the folks that they have bad , Just the most lovely timennd that they art j all Impatience for the year to roll around | so that they may go again. Those are the kind of herolncn that can extract fun from every mlshnp. They nre the only kind that i ( should tackle the dubious pleasures ot thfr Malno woods. For that class and It is at. . , extensive one that enjoys roughing It , there la no enjoyment In all the world like tht autumn forest. But the person who goes Infer for the first tlrao without proper conception of the nature of the fun will bo supremely miserable himself , or herself , and will make all the folks around moro miserable still. The women haven't commenced to go Into the Arooatook ami the Pamodumcook wil derness yet to any great extent. Last yeat several parties went in from Stacyvllle to , the vicinage of old Katahdln and remained * several weeks until the snow came. The women were of the right sort to stand all the adversities , though they were from the city , nnd said that they had hail the best tlmo of tholr lives. And the women have hod pretty good luck LOUNGING GOWNS AND JACKETS. T. FRANCIS1 Use Pe-ru-na With. Won derful Results. < * ST. VINCbNTS ORPHAN ASYLUM , EAST MAIN ST. , COLUMBUS , Q. la every city and large town In the United States the Sister of Charity hag become i familiar object. The Catholic Sisters sweet messengers of charity , ceaseless and indefatigable in their labors move quietly and swiftly In and out among the people , ccelvlng , dispensing , assisting nud comfort n. Neither hent nor cold , fatlguo or danger , Icter them from their errands of mercy. They are to bo found In palace and hovel ; n the boulevard and brothel. Nothing daunts , them. Nothing discourages them. Vast nitltutions of refuge for the homeless and hopeless have arisen In , every city by their Irelcss labors. * By no means the least service they render helpless Immunity Is their dispensation if medicine. Their experience among the sick , and their anxiety to bo of assistance ) o them , soon lead them to know the roost efllclent and safe remedies. It would be mpossible that so popular and valuable a remedy as Po-ru-na could hove escaped their .ttentlon. Many letters have been received from Institutions of this kind praising he benefit that Pe-ru-na has been to them. Following Is a letter recently received iy Dr. Hartman : ST. VINCENT'S ORPHAN ASYLUM. East Main St. , Corner Rose Avenue , Columbus , O. > r. S. B. Hartman : ( "Some years ago a. friend of our institution recommended to us Dr. Hartman's Pe-ru-na' as an excellent remedy for the influenza , of which wo then had several \ oscs which threatened to bo of n serious character. "Wo began to use it and cxporlencod such wonderful results that since then Pe-ru-n IBS become our favorite medicine for Influenza , catarrh , coughs , colds and bronchitis , "SISTERS OF ST. FRANCIS , St. Vincent's Orphan Asylum. " Mr. 0. W. Aringe , of Colllnsvllle Tex. , writes : "I have been u s 1 n K Pe-ru-na for cough I have had for. some time. It has completely cured mo , nnd I do heartily recommend it to those suffering from Mr. G. W. Arlnee coughs and colds. I and son. will praise Po-ru-na forever. " Mr. Joseph Klrch- enBtlnor , 87 0 r o t on street , Cleveland , O. , salys : "We U a v o used Po-ru-na for eight years as our family medicine. During the whole of that time wo have not had to employ a physician. Our fam ily consists of seven , and we always use it for the thousand nnd ono ailments to Mr. Joseph which mankind Is Kirchcnstelner. liable. Wo h a v used It in coses ot Bcarlot fever , measles and diphtheria. When- b.u onu or the inmilv feel In the least 111 mother always says : 'Tnko Po-ru-na and you will bo vrdl , ' or. it wo do not happen to have any. 'We will have to get more Pe ru-no. ' Pe-ru-na Is always satisfactory in colds and coughs. " Mr. Albert Born. Krneber of Mayvllle , WIs. , snys : "I want to tell you that I have been Riven good health by Pe-ru-na. In September , 1S93 I caught a very bad \ cold. It settled on my lungs and I was troubled with night sweats and n terrible cough. I could not sleep part of the time. I could scarcely Mr. Albert breathe. 1 began to Borngraobor. nnd In take Pe-ru-na short tlmo was entirely cured. I always , a . I feel very glvo it a. high recommendation. graterUl " > Mr. W. B. McKaln , Iowa Park. Texas , who was completely restored to health b ? the use of Po-ru-un , writes as follows ; "I have used your Pe ru-no , and bavo given it a thorough trial , I must sav the result was flattering to you , and I can * conscien tiously recommend U Mr. W. B. McKaln. for couKbs. cclda ami especially la grippe. " Address Dr. Hartman. Columbus , O. , top a book on chronic catarrh. Sent freo. The climatic diseases of winter are mainly coughs , colds , catarrh , bronchitis , tdnsl- Htls and other catarrhal affections of the respiratory tract. Po-ru-na Is an absolute specific for all of these affections. Po-ru-na will cure a cough or cold In a few days. Pe-ru-na will cure chronic catarrh even of } oars' standing in a few weeks. Pe-ru-na should "be " kept in every house as n safeguard against the mnny affections to which the family is liable during the winter season. Old cases of chronic catarrh should begin at once a course of treatment with Pe-ru-na. After taking the remedy falthiully for ono month , write to Dr. Hartman , Columbus , Ohio , stating all the facts In your case , and ho will glvo you further advice free of charge. All correspondence held atrlctly confi dential except at request of the writer. Ask any druggist for a free Pe-ru-na Almanac for the year 1899. up that way In the shooting lino. Ono Lynn doctor has been coming down Into Malno every fall for years after a moose. Ho has been able to shoot deer enough. But deer have got to be too small game for him. Last season he brought down bla niece to ECO him get the prize , for ho felt sure that at last his patience was to bo re warded. One day whllo they were coming down Black stream the nloce , who was a llttlo way ahead in a canoe with ono of the guides , saw a mocso etandlng near tbo water's edge. The animal was sldo on and presented a splendid mark. Up went the llttlo rifle and though the hand of the maiden trembled convulsively good fate sped the ball true and the moose fell dead with a bullet through his heart. That night the undo figured up that ho had spent over $1,000 In chasing after a raooso through the Malno forest and still lacked Uio moose. Hero was his 10-year-old nlcco down for the week and lo , she almost had a moose brought to her. The uncle disgustedly decided that hunting was about all luck anyway. Tbero Is ono thing to Bay about the women who have been coming to the Maine woods for the last ten years. Not one has yet shot one of the guides for a bear or her husband for a deer. The woodsmen say that when the women are out hunting they are very cautious with all of a woman's In herent fear that Eonicthlng will happen , and that no matter how unskilled the wo men may be In the use of firearms the guides are never apprehensive of ac cidents. It Is the impetuous veteran who blows off hla own or someone else's head. Prill * of riiNlilon. Copes for cold weather wear nre either In shawlpolnt or Feamless circular shnpo and nearly every model Is of three-quarter length. Three-cornered colored velvet toques , trimmed with a bit of fur and some Jew- piled ornaments , nro the smart thing in hradgear. White satin vests , embroidered In petunia or eoft pink or green Biddings , nre worn with costumes of royal or silver-blue Vcue- tlnn cloth. Mix a few drops of sweet oil w'th an equal quantity of black ink nud apply the mix ture to black kid gloves where the outer surface is rubbed off. There are now shell combs which curve to fit the head , directly under the knot ar ranged high , and serve as a comfortable support for the heavy winter hat. The new silk petticoat which can have my place among the new fashions must r > " fluod 0.3 carefully ns the uklrt which covers It , made nlmost as long and quite plain ibout the hips. Popular fur trimmings nro of sable , mink > r marten tnlls hanging like- deep fringe from yokes or square Bailor-shaped collars it Lyons velvet overlaid with silk ccrd ami ticod appliques. , Jted , in thp new shade which ha * a verr i ; ilnky tinge , Is very much the fashion. Jt' ' h something between a scarlet and a crlra-1 ion , and cloth gowns in this tint , with plain itltchlng for trimming , are very swell. Strappings of black illk , with a narrow tnotted braid on either edge , arc one of thn uoddlsh trimmings for a cloth gown ; al o | appllquo designs of white cloth outlined with an embroidered stitch In silk matchIng - Ing the color of the gown to which they art applied. - Alaska Babln in the form of a collar , with i long stole ends and plenty of tails for trim- \ mlng , is one of the fashionable novelties la fur which lo not beyond the price of the aver age woman. If she can have a muff wltb frilled ends to match , BO much the better , The cloths largely uned for fashlonabla cloaks are Lyons velvets , ealln rantelasBco , silk seal plush In f-mr different grades , each forty-eight Inches wide , and Volours du Noril In six different qualities , thirty-two inches wide. The slight manniBhncsa In wearing np V pnrol that women arc now affecting in glv * 4 Ing both hands and feet a chance to breathe. / It was Impossible to flnd gloves in America nt ono tlmo that had the general effect of the man's glove , but the most stylish glovea are now made after the design of the mas * online ; nrticlo and arc worn loose and com * fortable. Persian colors are obtained to a great ex tent in the softer shades Whole powns ara made of the material with the ulmwl effect and one with a pale blue ground , the flgurei in soft tones which blend wltb It , IB lovely. A blouse of a delicate shndo of silk , with a narrow front ot some soft white material , has long lapels and standing collar of ullll In Persian colors , with a charming effect. I < * ciiiliiliu > Personal * . Mrs. David Jnynp Hill , wife of tlie re cently appointed assistant secretory of state , Is raid to bo one of the beat horsewomen la Washington. . Mrs. Frederick Douglass , widow of the colored orator , Is to go on the lecture plat form to deal with the history of his race In , this country. Mrs. Jefferson DaviB , though In the 70 , In n well preserved woman and a flno typ if the old-school Koutheru lady. The routing sf her life has for years remained un changed , hut her once famous wit U as bril liant as over , The latest hats-off movement comes , from Cincinnati. O. , where It lia been Introduced Into one of the churches. Many of the news- tapers of the country have commented ed itorially upon the innovation and , almost ivlthout exception , favorably. Mrs. Bankhcnd , wife of Congressman lankhp-d of Alabama , one of the leader * > f the southern colony in Wcshlngton has i s n in n regiment now In Santiago nnd la going to pay a visit to him at Chrlstmaa , ime , taking with her a number of eomhein > pllcs who hove sweethearts In General X iVood'a ' : ommand. X There ore C79.C08 women engaged In tra-lo n Germany , the number having doubled luring the Inet thirteen years. All branchea if Industry show an Increase In this , line o , employment , the higher classes of labor iven rooro than the lower ones. The , reU- ist gain , however , In apparent In commerce , ho percentage of women In tbl line bln- | Mlas Mary Hennessey of Chicago has been .warded $6.000 damages by tho. Biiprmn "t ourt In a suit started eight years acn 1 gainst the Laundrymen's association toi * onsplracy tending to hurt her buslneVa lisa Hennessey hud boon dwlroua of etiir'r. ( n * low. and to defray 'hi neminrj . l ! lenses established a laundry ofl'co and In * 5 tltuted "cut rates. " She prospered until i he Laundrymen's association began a wir gainst her. for which purpose , aroor-i'mT ' ler complaint , It was principally orgnulzrJ. , I