Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, October 16, 1898, Page 14, Image 14

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of < hc Melon Muff
NEW YORK , Oct. 13. The glorletf of the
v Inter of ISO ? and the graudeuis of 1SD8
promise to be absolutely outrrvalod by the
true magnificence of the season Just clos
ing. Silks nnd furs ore the dominant
topics of Interest In clothcsland this week ,
for hitherto nobody could speak with any
niithorlty whatsoever on the long or short-
bnircd skins. It really Is not uutll the
cold winds strike In , and the women begin
to put their new furs to' practical uses , that
0110 ran tell what is Binart uud what is
A decidedly nose reddening breeze
whipped out of the north a few days ago
end then the fun lu furs began. A largo
majority of the women clunglo their. cloth
coats , honoring the change in the weather
! > y prrtty stock collars of satin that wrin
kle closa about the throat , but let fall under
either car bioad , rolling triangles of fur.
That js to say , with a brown Zlhllcne coat
\voulii be adopted a full stock of damson
red satin or velvet , having overlapping
points of rich Husslan fable.
Another , n smoke gray coat , ' was topped
elf by a stock of cornflower blue velvet
and the largo points were of chinchilla.
These- points fall well down oil the shoul
der and really cover the sides of the col
lar , and many of such neck tlxlngs bavo
two wedge-shaped cnda of fur , one long and
one ; short , that fall out on the chest about
e-lx or eight luchcs. A collarotto that an
swers to the above outlines nnd a good-
sized muff Is considered effective and per
fectly sufficient for trimming , though there
is no reason to assert that small capes ,
shoulder pieces \ylth stole fronts , or in fact
any of the good orthodox cuts of fur have
lost one whit of their popularity.
1 Smart but Chilly.
All the no\v capes , of course , are shawl ,
shaped , their sloped fronts treated verj
often with a graduated arrangement of tails
but for warmth these new garments are t
pnaro and a delusion. They BCOUI fairly tc
invite and hold every 1cy blast. The niosi
commendable of the cape family are those
rather graceful llttlo fellows of cloth thai
only drop to the elbow and have rovers ani
n high collar faced with fur.
Some of these capes are cut from vorj
Rally colored cloth , In warm reds and blue :
nnd are satln-qulltcd inside , which add'
many degrees to their warmth. With al
these wraps exceedingly high collars an
worn without exception , and among tin
email things In fur arc long scarfs of mink
marten and otter , Russia and Alaska sabli
that pass about the Inside of a high colla :
nt Its base and tie In a double bow kno
in front. Such a scarf keeps the collar clos
obout the ears and gives comfort to thi
wearer's neck and they , more than anythlni
else , have delayed the reincarnation of thi
long boa.
Melon MufTii.
Over In Russia the fair empress has give :
the ukase on muffs , for it is said that th
only fad of that gentle , melancholy woma :
is for furs. Just now she prefers a melon
chaped muff with street dreuses and
good big fellow , at that. 1'he muff is mad
of ten pieces of fur , eo braced that the
puff up at their broadest point , leavlu
( the center of the hand warmer some twenty
flvo inches in circumference , while th
orifices at either end nro very small. Wit
eraart calling toilets she adopts a sma
muff raado wholly of polar fox , sable , < ]
crmhio tails , and the few that have bee
imported are worth from $300 to $ lCOi
There simply la no question as to the !
beauty , but the price is so exclusive th :
many women are going to content the
gently covetous souls with ostrich an
marabout feather hand protectors.
For a good , serviceable , ilmplo and tast <
ful muff there is nothing better than a b !
fellow oj densely brown or gray cub wo
fur , while Persian lamb , mink and Alasl
eablo in rcttculo or melon shape are to 1
as extensively used as ever.
A very pretty and novel fur trimmed mu
is made In the double rctlculo shape i
cloth , with the fur applied ln any way di
elrcd. To make one of these a Ion
rather narrow cloth cylinder is arrangi
and tied tight In the middle with a ham
some ribbon , finished with a bow. Into tl
boW a couple of fur tails can be Judicious
twisted , and then where the hands cat
At cither end 'the muff is again drawn \
No matter what color
condition of your IIAIIl-
Btreakv , BLEACHED or
QUAY It can bo luado beau
tiful , elossy and natural by ono annl
call'ii of the IMP iitlAL HAIR HI
GENERATOR , It is clean , oilorlos
lasting , does not contain an atom of po
tonnua inutto" . Dutlis do not afl'oot i
neither does curling nor crimping , li
onrapanUile for the HEAUU on aecom
ot Its cleanliness and durability , Sere
colors cover all ehados. Price , 81. ;
land S3.00.
Bole Manufacturers and Patentee * .
Imperial Chemical SITs , Co. , 132 Flf
AVP , N Y. For sale in Omulm by lUc
iirdHon Drug Co.
Hncrman & McConuell Drue Co.
ApplltiJ by ull Hair Drfsscrs , 1513 Dodge
with ribbons into as small orifices as com
fort will allow. A small outstanding frit !
can be left at both ends and trimmed will ,
fur tails , but the muff when completed
should have two distinct compartments foi
the hands.
New SiirtoutH.
Women to whom money Is no object arc
undoubtedly lending themselves to the
asclnatlons of the very long fur coat that
mttona up double-breaslodly in front and
ias long , solemn cutaway tails , but she
vho Is wise as well as a lover ot beaut ]
will scarcely Invest any capital In the now
urtouU , as they are called , for their days
of popularity will bo exceedingly short. K
s very easy , however , to have to a last
year's fur coat small , pretty hip , long cut
away tails adjusted , and a lace jabot or a
ompleto new front , of bright brocaded satin
nd lace Idld on over the bust.
There really Is ' nothing that has not
been told over and over again to tell now
bout the application of fur as a dress trim
ming. Hands and bindings of mink ot
iroadtall crop out , In accepted style , on
landsotne cloth nnd velvet costumes , though
n Paris they do cut from broadtail some
cry lovely conventionalized patterns ol
rult and flowers nnd applique them on
velvet. Short of trimming a gown witli
mro gold leaf there Is scarcely any decora-
Ion more extravagant than this or an }
more richly beautiful.
Oho damson purple velvet brought ovci
rom Paris had a scries ot large broadtail
> ow knots , holding loose popples of tin
ame fur , applied on skirt and body. When
ho edges of the fur lay on the velvet t
finish of the finest Jet beading was used
and all the centers of the popples , and somt
ellcato Intermixed vine like traceries , were
lone lu this black sparkling ornamentation
t was n costume , however , only sultabli
or an extravagant millionairess.
SllkM anil SiitliiM.
Gowns , liowo\cr , that will bo worthy o
ircservatlon for appreciative- posterity an
boso made this season ot the now evening
Ilka nnd satins. lu the days of Louis XV
uch Imperially beautiful fabrics were no
reamed ot as Cotelo d'or , satin sultane am
affetn. croqucte. The first mentioned is i
hick silk with broad bayadere ribs of satli
rosslng it at short intervals. Such quallt ;
and body has this goods that the ordinary
affeta lining seems like tlssuo paper undci
t , vvhllo satin sultane Is duchess satin in
reascd in beauty and richness ten fold
and among these new goods a new shadi
ailed Montenegrau ircd is to bo teen am
In contrast to these fabrics , dyed a sollc
olor , are the truly exquisite figured am
mbosscd moires that merit all the revercn
admiration they receive. Over a milk blui
ground of moire , for Instance , will extern
prays of pink marsh mallows and raggci
obln , or golden cllmatls and pluk-tlppci
daisies. The flowers stand out alway
learly defined and in the tcudercst color
against the veined marblo-llko paleness o
ho moire , while on the new taffetas thi
lowers are closely massed in broad blurrei
muds ot glowing color. Some of thes
affetaa are excellent leproductlons of thi
landsomo chined silks eo popular twenty
flvo years ago.
Flowered moire and taffeta ribbon take
a place to the forefront , but the novelty I
Ibbon showing a llb'eral powdering ot bl |
and llttlo loose silk dots. Somehow thi :
mslncss of dotting things , or rather tuftlni
hem with little llossy balls , has crept lnt <
great favor. A proportion ot the wlnte ;
; oods show dots , while many of the felt hati
are speckled with them.
lints mill Ulovcu.
The last' word "as to hats deals with thi
question ot'crowns. , 'Kid/fur ' and shlrree
silk crowns , with felt brims , have theli
warm partisans , and the combination cat
bo recommended , especially the puddln {
shaped fur ctowu. Some ot the most en
icing llttlo theater bonnets have two tin ;
crowns of velvet , powdered with pearls , tha
It on either side of the head. The theatci
bonnets are veritable top knots of coquetry
eo minute are their proportions , and some
times a Juliet crown of Jet will flowei
out a couple ot abnormally large pansles
ono of white , the other of black velvet
laving their centers and edges of Jet. No
another material may enter Into the com
position ot this bonnet , yut it will bo mos
decidedly a thing of beauty.
AH sorts ot queer applications are belli !
made to quills and plumes this season
Bands of crinkled satin ribbon are fastenci
somehow to the spines of eagle feathers
or tiny breast down , from domestic fowls
are glued In a fuzzy band along the spine
White ostrich feathers Invariably have thcl
spines dyed black and sometimes wee tag
of fur are bung in with the feathery masse
of the plumes. In walking hats browi
and gray quills absolutely dominate th
situation and some ot these are the loin
mottled plumage from the lyre birds' tallt
The seasonable golfing hat js denuded of a * ]
decoration. A checked cheviot or twee
aat Is the thing that has a low crown and
broad Hat brim , measuring the same wldtl
all round. This puts the Alpine's nose
permanently out of Joint just as the big
hat with a lofty heterogeneous trimming is
slowly , but none the leas surely , being
lifted to the top shelf of oblivion ,
There nro no now colors In gloves , but
a recombination of tones has been intro
duced. That Is to say , some of the long
evening glove kids are white , or cream or
pearl gray outside , and blue , or > ellow , or
lilac Inside. Heavy stitching | s again ap
parent on all hand gear. So very heavy Is it
in certain of the walking gloves that the
thick silk lines cover as a solid wedge the
back of the hand , while the prettiest but
tons are deeply colored caboehon crystar.
This last is distinctly a pretty touch of
UliintriUloiiN iif I'ntliloMM.
Little Ho Peep , if her ilocks wore made
up of the handsome fur-bearing animals ,
would ahcd bitter tears over the slaughter
in tails that is going on this aututnu as
shown by the sketch , which is drawn from
Iho newest fur models. Oue of the figures
In the group shows a muff made of Alaska
sable tails , a simple thing , but cruelly dear ,
and worn with it a stock oforangevelvet
bead * with niclulllc tones ot red and purple
glinting from their facets.
of 11 Dntiuhtcr of Captain
Itoliloy l ) , Kviinw.
( Mrs. Marsh and her ulster. Mlsa Evans ,
are daughters of Captain Evans of the Iowa.
Mrs. Marsh is the wife ot Lieutenant
Marsh , flat ; secretary to Admiral Sampson ,
Both nro nieces of Captain H. C. Taylor ,
commanding the Indiana , and their onlv
brother was a cadet ou the Massachusetts.
but participated in the naval fight , having
been left aboard the Iowa on July S , So
while father , husband , uncle and brother
risked their lives at pea for their country's
sake , these two pretty society girls , for both
are scarcely old enouch to bo called women.
mustered the entire famllv Into the- service
of the United States bv devotlnc their en-
crgUs to caring for the wounded , But llt
tlo Idea of the heroic work done durlnc the
war by carefully nut lured American woman
hood , accustomed to nil the comforts that
come from wealth , can be coined from this
modest little reminiscence of her hospital
life * . which Mrs. Marsh has written , lu
which she has said notlilnc of the hard-
shins she nnd her sister underwent , but
which records n few very humane Incidents
which came to her notice , )
aim. MurHh'K Stonr.
It was a few days after the great Santiago
fight , about July 10 , that my sister and I
heard ono morning that the steamer Breakwater -
water was in , nnd the sick nnd wounded
were being taken to the camp hospital.
Wo had already offered our services to
the surgeon In charge , but had been told
that his orders from Washington prevented
his having any women nurses In camp.
So this morning we wasted aio time In for
mal applications , but went round to the
having sable points and cravat ends. A
charming coronet hat is the finishing touch.
Another model shows the treatment of a
small black velvet capo with mink tails and ,
the muff that accompanies the capo Is a
melon-shaped comforter of alternating dark
and lighter stripes of mink.
A reticule muff In two compartments ap
pears with the third figure , which Illustrates
the uses of the bow boa , while the fourth
fashion pinto displays a coat of broad tall ,
or Astrakan , or Persian Iamb , trimmed and
recut in harmony with the new laws.
How the rich chined and embossed silks'
1 and satins are made up in reception and 'tea
; gowns la elucidated in the two single cuts
' of figures. The larger model Is that of a
costume wrought out from kilted crepe llsso
and moire decorated In floral patterns. The
> llsso. front ot skirt and body is white , made
over pale yellow silk. The moire train nn < l
' body are white , hlso elaborated lu corn
. flower and clematis pattern , while the
i shaped ruffles down the front of the skirt
> and the little Romeo cape and cross pieces
' are of cornflower blue satin.
1 Tea gown number two Is a rosy lavender
> satin bearing closely embossed velvet figures
i in a rich violet shade. Where the folded
' oversklrt opens at the foot a glimpse is
: given of rose-colored tulle sprinkled with big
. purple silk balls. Tulle to match falls in a
I full front over the waist line , nnd appears
1 again on the sleeves. A high collar ot laven.
i der satin wrinkles close about the throar
i and Is crossed by a necklace ot big black
left'of'the camp where guards were few ,
'Tlicro ' wo found a 'yoimrvolunteer1 ; doctor ,
; with' moro cleverness than respect for au
thorities , and ho took us Into Iho camp
ami set us to work.
For the next ton days we were the ouly
women nurses In the camp , and as all
the men felt more comfortable when there
was a woman about , wo did what wo could
for the whole GOO. It was during these
first days of rushing around that we found
ourselves nicknamed "The sunshine of the
camp. " Some of il\o Michigan volunteers
were gallant enough lo originate that tjtlc.
Going ono day to look for one of the men
nurses who was not nt his post , I found that
ho had developed a mild form of insanity ,
cud was to bo sent to the asylum. I wont
to set ) if I could do anything for him. Ho
lumped to his feet when ho saw me , saluted
tad said : "Llko two ungels of light ye de
scended upon us. Goodby , goodby ! I'm goIng -
Ing homo to ride my new white bicycle wjyi
my monogram painted on It. " I concluded
ho was at least happy , and left him to the
t'so hospital stewards who had him In
Scattered through all the tents were a few
of the colored troops , and wherever I found
ono I found gentleness and good humor and
natlenco ; and all the men agreed to the ver
dict ot an old Irish sergeant when ho said :
"An thlm coons kin fight ! There's lots of
us wouldn't be hero now If 'twasn't for
thlm. "
Ono of my men told mo that as bo lay
wounded in the trenches another man calnc
to him BO covered with blood that he could
not tell whether he was black or while , nmi
asked htm if ho coufdn't do romethlng to
help him. "No , man , " 'replied my patlbnt ,
"you'd better go and have something done
for yourself. " The other man wiped the
blood from his face and said : "Now , look ,
and tell mo what's Iho matter with me , " and
ho told him ho had been almost scalped by
a plcco of shell. " 0 , well , " was the woundeJ
man's answer. "If that's all , I'll go see II
icme of the other men don't need help , " and
oft ho went , stopping nt the wounded nnd
the dead , and finally finding down the line n
uoundcd man who consented to bo carried
back to the doctor , whereupon ho promptly
took him on his blood-atulned shoulders and
carried htm to the hospital ,
In ono of my own wards I had n little
colored private , very black , with popped eyes
that blinked continually , and an Indescrib
able accent , whoso one prayer was "Le'mc
git back to my company. Please , miss , gll
me well an' son' me back. "
Ono day I askeSl him , "Peters , why d <
you want 'to go back. Aren't jou comfortable -
fortablo hero ? "
"Vea , miss , " ho answered , "but please
miss , Ic'nio go back. 1 wan * kill some mori
them Spauyuts ? "
"But why , Peters , don't you think you'vi
killed enough ? " I Insisted.
"No , miss , no miss , dey done kilt mj
cnptun , and den wo cotch dc man wha
dona It , an' when I see ' 1m I start to
Mm , an' I eay , 'Now I'so got you , nov
I'EO gwlno servo jou llko you scno mj
cnptun. ' An' my lieutenant ho grab mo bj
er shoulder an' ho say , 'You , Peters , yoi
git back whar you belongs , don' you novel
let mo even hear you talk bout klllln' :
prisoner ; ' but 1 say , 'You Just le'mo git holi
my carbecn , an' see whether I kill 'Im ci
not. Yes , miss , I sutcnly Is got to kll
oomo more Spanyuts. "
After 'things ' become more systematize
and moro women nurses were employed I
only had two \varde , about sixty men , mosi
of them regulais , who had "soldiered" foi
years , and thought the climate ot Cuba nose
so bad after that of Nebraska. Ono day an
old cavalry corporal asked to what regi
ment the men In a neighboring tent be
longed. I told him they were all member !
of a well known volunteer regiment. "Ah
sure then , " he icplled "tho poor buoys
need rale good nilrsln' , for raany's the time
down to Santiago I've seen , "cm como tc
mornln * sick call , suffering wld sunstroke
which Is dangerous when you contract li
at night ; an' thlm that didn't have sun
stroke had cold feet ! "
A sergeant of infantry in ono of mj
wards was a great joy to visitors whc
wanted to hear ot hairbreadth escapes , foi
he had been graced by a mauscr bullel
across his whole body , beginning at his loft
arm and going all across his chest to his
right arm. His real wound was a bad one
In the thigh , but ho valued above every
thing the flannel shirt ho wore at Santiago
With Its'eight holes , all made by the same
It was In the Hist part of August that
a nrw man , an Illinois volunteer , was
brought Into my ward from Porto Rico with
fever. 'He ' was not very 111 and as I put
him to bed and made him comfortable , 1
said : "How do you think you caught this
fe\er ? I thought Porto Rico was a healthy
place ! " Ho was nothing but a boy , and he
burst out crying , as Jio bald : "I don't
know anything about Porto 'Rico ' , miss. I
never landed. 1 got sick on the transport ,
and they sent mo right back here ; and all
the other fellows Is there now. " HP was
In the "blues" for several days , till hla
mother carao to Icok after him , and I thlnK
her content at having him safe and not
with 'thi' other fellows" rconcll.-l hi n ,
for ho went on furlough in a week or two
looking happy.
The very best of the men nurses were two
Armenians. One had been the son of a
minister ot the Armenian church , and had
Been hla father , mother and sisters killed
by the Turks. He told of it one day , very
quietly , but with a look In his eyes which
mada me thing that stray and unprotected
Tutks had best avoid him. Both of the Ar
menians were wonderfully clean , endlessly
patient and as gentle as women. The men
grew very fond of them , and called them
"John" quite regardless of their Intricate
names , which sounded just as they looked ,
written In Armenian characters.
Only a day or two before I left the hos
pital I went Into the diet kitchen and found
the chef dancing- with rage and almost
speechless. He ran toward me as I came
In , and when I could understand anything
ho said I found he was begging me. "Splk
for me ! Splk for mo ! Tell the dootalre ! "
I said I would speak to anyone ho pleased
if ho would only tell mo what he wanted ,
and then he waved his hand solemnly to
ward the stove and Bald : "Look ! lieholdf
Hero are ten gallons of milk I hat put to
sterilize , and they hat curdl curdle ! "
O , but ho was a Jewel , that cook ! He
had been chef at the Whlto House for years ,
and then at governmsnt house In Jamaica ;
and the "light diets" he used to send down
Into the wards were a treat to see. I shall
never forget his milk toast. It would have
been a dainty dish to set before the king.
When the war broke out this chef wanted
to do something for the soldiers , and so
volunteered to oue of the relief associations ,
which sent him to our hospital. They paid
him about what his board coat , so ho prac
tically gave his cervices , and that meant
a great deal.
Finally , about the end of August , my
sister and I said goodby to our men and
, i
ii i
internal Tonic Applied to tlie Skin
Beautifies It As by Magic. -
Thousands have tried from tlmo Immem
orial to discover come efficacious remedy
Cor wrinkles and other imperfections of
the complexion , but none bad ytt suc
ceeded until the Misses Bell , the now famous
ous Complexion Specialists , ot "S Fifth
avenue , New York City , offered the pub-
tic their wonderful Complexion Tonic.
The reason so many failed to make this
dtsco\ery before is plain , because they have
not followed the right principle. Balms ,
Creams , Lotions , etc. , never have a tonic-
effect upon the skin , hence the ( allures.
The Bell's Complexion Tonic has
a most exhilarating effect upon the cuticle ,
absorbing nnd carrying off all Impurities
which tup blood by its natural action Is
constantly forcing to the surface ot the
skin. It Is to the skin what a vitalizing
Conic Is to the blood and ucryes , a kind of
uow life that immediately exhilarates and
strengthens wherever applied. Its tonic
effect is felt almost Immediately , and It
speedily banishes forever from the skin ,
freckles , pimples , blackheads , moth patches ,
wrinkles , liver spots , roughness , olllncss ,
eiur-tiona and dlscoloratlons of any kind.
In older that all may bo benefited by
their Great Discovery , the Misses Bull will ,
during the present month , give to all cull-
left the camp , which was by that tlmo pro
vided with plenty of contract nurses , who
are paid $30 a month and their board. And
wo were very proud of being able to say that
wo had nuised sixty men apiece , for five
weeks , and never lost a patient.
nf Fa Nil I on.
Very pretty umbrella handles are made
of dull gold engraved and studded with
A very pretty watch for a woman has a
miniature on the back. The center is set
with pearls.
The bias bands of velvet lend themselves
to the crinkled rullled effects to bo seen In
so many things.
There are few kinds of trimming that are
not to be seen this year , and much of the
trimming runs iiround the skirts aud bodices
bayac j fashion.
A bit of color is brought into a dark gown
by means of the collar , which will bejif a
pretty , bright velvet , while n llttlo pleco
of the name velvet flares nnd falls over" the
Rough Rider halt ) of toft French felt , In
every shade of color , appioprlate for au
tumn wear , nro trimmed with a scarf of
fancy silk laid In close , flat folds around
-ho crown , with two quills feathers on the
left side.
The tlnv ruffles of chiffon , which nro not
finished with rullles , aud even some which
are. are edged with tiny bands of ribbon or
velvet. On a Dink cown the many ruffles
of chiffon arc cducd with narrow pink velvet -
vet -with a soft and attractive effect.
The well remembered surplice front fast
ening over nt ono side of the waist is o be
seen with a knot of velvet or silk as a fin
ish. That is another nretty , old fashion , and
lth the lace or chlflon vest it Is becom
ing to all styles of faces and softens the
Patterns In Jet nro very handsome on
black cloth and velvet gowns , whcro they
are put on EO heavily that they must add
much to the weight of the garment. Black
jet is seen on white , but there it la put on
less heavllv. Here nnd there a rhlnestono
buckle is seen , enough to show that it is lu
New traveling wraps for lengthy Journeys
are military cloaks , qulto as long us an
ulster , to bo worn with or without n cape.
The fronts nro semi-loose , and the backs
fitted and sometimes belted. Many of these
wraps are made of army-blue cloth , and
the fronts are fastened with medium-sized
gilt buttons.
Many people do not llko .fringes , but
Bomo of the short fringes that are worn nro
very pretty. A black cloth suit has its
three skirts outlined with black and white
fringe about an inch in width. The white
Is almost imperccntible. being entirely un
der the black and showing only the tiniest
edge. The effect IB as if tbo black cloth
anda white lining were slightly fringed.
Having appropriated piece by pleco man's
especial belongings lu the shape of scarfs ,
neckties , haty , collars , waistcoats , and cut
away jackets , the very fashionable girl of
the day has taken to wearing men's shops
for long country walks nnd cycling uses.
The shoes are made of oll-graln calfskin ,
and are the regular shapes and styles made
on men's lasts by Urst-class shoemakers.
. The bauglo bracelet has returned. it
may bo had in all kinds and conditions of
material. The Jade bracelet still holds n
first place , but it Is expensive. It is lucky ,
however , and attractive. There ar.0 imita
tions , but the uninitiated can tell the real
Jade by the temperature. A glass Imita
tion held against the cheek la not cold , but
the Jade , being ot a different composition , U
noticeably to.
The prominent color among advance
autumn styles for dress nnd millinery accessories
series for those who could appropriately
wear it wa a brilliant sbado of cherry-
red. Not cerise , for that color Is us try
ing and bard a tone as magenta or any
of tbo intense reds which liavii a purple
cast. To Berne people cherry-red la Im
mensely becoming , but is to be carefully
avoided by others.
There are no hard and fast lines In
women's dress as there are in men's. A
man wears a straw hat jus * , so long , and
rio longer , and If by some chance ho wcarp
a straw hat and an overcoat every one
comments upon it. A woman wears a straw
bat whenever she BCCS fit all winter if she
llkeo and if she has a big velvet bat that
she thinks would be pretty with a uumtner
gown , tbo would take it out nnd wear it ,
nnd the admiring world would exclaim ,
"How pretty and original ! "
T\NO-button cutaway coats , made with a
Bilk-faced notched collar , llko those on
nien'n coats , arc neat and Inexpensive styles
for every-day wear. The fronts slope very
much towards the hips , the curve beginning
Immediately below the buttons , disclosing
the dress waist or silk fchlrt waist beneath.
The back is ndjiuted by closely fitted side
formu. The coat sleeves have no extra full
ness at tbo top , and are only of uuniclcnt
size to ellp on and off with eaee. The pock-
ers at their parlors ono trial bottle of their
Complexion Tonic absolutely free ; and in
order that those who.cannot call or who
Hvo away from Now York may bo bene
fited , they will send ono bottle to uny address -
dress , all charges prepaid , on the receipt of
25 cents ( stamps or silver ) to cover cost of
packing and delivering. The price of this
wonderful tonic is fl.OO per bottle , and
this liberal offer should bo embraced by all.
The Misses Bell have just published
their new boon , "Secrets of Beauty. "
This valuable work Is free to nil desiring
It. The book treats exhaustively of the
Importance of a good complexion ; tells
how a woman may acquire beauty nnd
keep it. Special chapters on the care ot
the hair : how to have luxuriant growth ;
harmless methods of making the hair preserve -
servo its natural beauty and color , even to
advanced age. Also Insttuctlons how to
banish superfluous hair from tbo face ,
neck and arms without Injury to the sKtu.
This book will bo mailed to any address on
FRIB Trial Bottles ot Wonderful Com
plexion Tonic free at parlors , "or 25 cents
( cost of packing and mulling ) to those at a <
Correspondence cordially solicited. Ad
THE MISSES BilA , TO Fifth AVC. . New York City.
The MIsscH Ucll'a Complexion Tonic , Complexion Simp , Skin Food mill De-
lillo nrc fur nnlo by nil
use Use
Woodbury's Woodbury's
Facial Soap Facial Cream
Sculp dlsenst's , tailing hair , baldness.
jireinuturo Ri-ayneiiH quickly cured , anil tlio
lustro , nuturul growth HUU color restored
iv JOHN II. WOODHUUY , 1C3 Statu 8t. ,
Chicago , nnd SOS Chc-mlcal Btdg. , St. Ixnils.
feond 10 cents for Heuuty nook , nnd re
ceive tmmplo of ooap ami cream , free.
eta have curved silt openings , aud the edges
of the entire coat are finished with two
rows of stitching.
I'tMlllllllllI'orMOIinlN ,
Miss Elizabeth Stephenson , who is to-
christen the \\isconslu. has sailed for this
country after a six months' tour ot Uurope.-
Miss Lauia Lykcns , a half-blood Shawnee
graduate of the Carlisle Indian school , and
n lawyer in Oklahoma , Is the only Indian
woman lawyer in the country.
Miss 12. Bonoml. who has received the M.
D. degree from the University of Genoa , Is
said 10 bo the first woman to secure a de
gree from uny Italian university.
Miss Antoinette Greoly , daughter of tha
arctic exploier. and Miss Kosemary Sartoris
u granddaughter of General Grant , will bo
among the debutantes in Washington this
season. '
Mrs. Cornelius Vandorbllt is said to bean
an enthusiastic collector of thimbles once
tno property of famous women. She owns
ono which otico .protected the linger of
A notable feature In the proceedings of
the American Board of 1'oiu u JI.U..U.H ui 1
brand Uaplds was the election of Mar
garet J. Uvuns of Minnesota as a member ,
she being the first woman to bo EO hon
ored ,
Mrs. L. A. Ileald. a dressmaker , has Just
completed a journey from Berkeley , Cal , ,
to Seattle. Wash. . 1.000 miles , in n dos
cart. She was accompanied by her C-year-1
old fcon. The outdoor trip , which was taken
for her health , was > cry beneficial to
Maralo Frey ot Chicago is IS , pretty , and
the only woman watchmaker in the city.
She is acknowledged to bo nn expert , but ,
women with watches out ot order prefer
to trust their timepieces to a mechanic of
the other Bex. That's why Bhg is un
Ono of the large Now York hotels to be
opeuud next winter will bo entirely in charge
of a woman , who , through a previous suc
cessful experience , has qualified herself to
assume a place of such responsibility.
A\omen proprietors of hotels are not un
known here , but they lm\o not hitherto
operated in a field so largo us that of the
woman who will manage this new build
ing. Quo of these bad charge of u private
hotel which WUB unique , ut leuta m ono
particular. During ono winter the pro
prietor had elxty cooks , and the young
woman who struggled aealnst > this vlsltii
tlou ot 111-fortuuo did nut seem to think
that Eho had been through an uxpcrlenca
especially trying. But shu admitted that
keeping a hotel furnished splendid discipline
for the character. Women hold keepers j
have been successful in many parts of
the country , and no occupation seems moro
suitable to their abilities. Ono of the
largest hotels In ono ot tbo best known
summer resorts Is kept by a woman , who
has maintained for years the high reputa
tion and excluslvencEK of the house ,
Iunxsutuwney Hplrlt.
1'utnpktn plo nnd npplo elder !
Cut 'er loose und open wider !
Ain't no tlmu like trultful uutumn ;
lilck'ry nuts in river bottom !
AVho Mild full was melancholy ?
Just the tlmo to bo real Jolly !
Btlr that Bteumlng apple butter ;
1'ry them doughnuts hear 'em bputterl
ik'o them trues with apples laden ;
Boo the buxom country m.ilcltii !
HeeiifH of plenty , bliss Arcad'n.
Bparklliikoyrti und rosy features !
Joyous , blended , happy creatures ,
Applu xiiltH uml pumpkin tllccH ,
KKHH unit butter bring Kood prices )
( inm'rles full and riinnin' over ;
HulKlntf huymowa Hweut with clover.
Country HUUHUKe ! Qaodtteti ? . land pukes )
Hurry up them buckwhtiit prim-alcea !
My , oh , my ! But don't wo pity
I'oor folks llvin III tic city !
"A llfo on ocean wave" und u quart of
Cook'w Imperial Champagne. , extra dry , is
the acme tt happiness ,