THE OMAHA DAILY UEE : SUXDAY , SEPT.EM'H.B'K 'Jo , J808 ,
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IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
IJASHIO.VM I'
ntc of HIP Shirt Wnl Tlio I'lnn-
iitul Jewelry.
IIP ! llloii < u' Millinery
NiE\V YORK. Scot. 22. Fashion U like
history , guilty of repetition. A voyage of
discovery through the shopping districts Is
not notable for revelations and surprises.
Under ho very naif assumption that they
are strictly autumn novcltirs , many dear
familiar objects appear ; silks , velvets and
woolen goods. They arc none the less wel
come , however , because they have often
been tried In the wcarlne and not found
waiting.
A. rlcld Inspection ot the new suitings
proves that the nearest thlug to a genuine
novelty Is a broche cloth running the
gamut of coed colors usually In combina
tion with black. If you can bellevo what
the fashion prophets say the broche or
figured effect In wool goods Is going to bo
emphasized as the season waxes. A rough ,
darkt blue winter serea or one of black ,
picked out In small oxblood figures , of a
geometric shape , gives you the keynote , tot
the tailor and the dressmakers both extol
Iti artistic worth. Next In modish value to
this is a perfectly smooth goods with a
melton finish , In muahroom brown , dotted
over by a neat wrlggllne pattern In warm
Krocn or black , or sometimes the two to
gether.
If you take a dispassionate blrd'soyo
viewot dress materials as they are dally
opened for Inspection and sale , you can't
but o'ome to the conclusion that we are Infer
for a season of color , broken color at that.
Just a llttlo less smart than the broche < l
cloths are these In checks , while much
lower down In the scale of feminine estima
tion , is the plain solid colored fabric. She
who 'buys a ono-tono boxtloth , for Instance ,
braids It freely and very likely with a
frl-sky looklnn braid woven or twisted In a
couple or a trio of seasonable colors.
"
, l'\nncl Jilimnrn.
This demonstration in favor of mixing the
sober tones ot autumn , and thereby lighting
the'somowhat oppressive gloom of the win
ter wardrobe , was never so noticeable as In
the now blouse llannels. Every season some
body hardily attempts to sound the tocsin
ofthe shirt waist and every season that
passing bell Is turned Into a welcoming
chime , for the shirt waist , long life to It ,
was. never In finer fettle than just now.
ITJannels and goods , especially woven for
! blouses , now fill a counter all to themselves ,
and each specimen Is the gayest of the gay.
Nobody who knows old styles trom new will
thick of purchasing a goptU.for a blouse
in any but a dazzling tone or a daring con
figuration. Tyrlan purple. Hungarian blue ,
naslurtlum brown and baize green are a few
of the one-toned flannels'so decided of tone
thai they would almost make old Sol wink
to look on them ; but for all that , these
colprp are becoming , and you can buy them
modulated by close set embroidered dots in
black silk.
Much , more popular than the above men
tioned are the striped and speckled flannels
made up , as In fact nearly all these woolen
blouses now are , with great art and elabora
tion. Last season wo were very content to
revel In blouses ot puritan simplicity of de
sign ; wo are far raoro exacting now and the
blouse that wrings admiration from the most
unenthuslastlc goes In for character of Ita
own. It has an earllpplng collar or none
nt all , a fancy front or Is bravo with braid
ing. Some there are that are made with
yokes and some with vests , and In all these
mazcn of variation the velveteen and cordu
roy shirt waist Is Us Ilannel sister's faithful
follower ,
Side IMnolfcU.
At last the tragedy , always raoro or less
Imminent concerning1 the placket hole. Is
disposed of and every woman who cannot
remember to hook this opening In her skirt
should have her petticoats cut on the new
tailor mode ; that la to say , -with the placket
hole buttoned securely up. According to the
highest authorities In skirt topography the
opening In that garment should bo made In
front and a llttlo to the right side. Just
where the seam of the front width runs up.
This leaves the back of the skirt to bo
shaped fashionably plain or pleated In a
llttlo and Innocent of any rear opening at all.
This change of base for the placket has
come about by reason of the new mode of
Clove-fitting the tops of all skirts , and the
placket's location In front Is neatly con
cealed , _ by a short row of small ornamental
buttons or a careful adjustment of braid
lines. Probably never before In the history
of dressmaking have skirts been so scant ns
ithla year. , They smply | have no fulness at
all , save a slight spreading effect In the
rear and below the knees. Such a result Is
obtained by artful sloping and goring , and
thus ample freedom-In. walking U allowed ,
though a skirt that boasts a circumference
of thrae yards is a very , very wide one in-
deed.
Candor compels the admission 'that ' Frcn-
chy and striking as this mode may bo. It
does not enlarge the reputation of the
femlnlno sex for beauty of form. Just about
one women In three hundred can wear this
new skirt and rejoice the eyes of the on
looker ; the other two hundred and ninety-
Din * will be asore , trial to their friends , for
she who Is the least bit too broad In the
beam and she who has been given by Provi
dence what are known as Japanese hips ,
cannot profit by this noveland , severe cut.
Continue , U you deslro , to bo In tua vau of
the style ; to leave your rear widths a trifle
long , that Is , at a fanllko spread bejond the
haeli , and do not make the base of the skirt
too crisp with hair cloth. A throe-Inch in-
torllnlng will do.
Gny Strluea.
Among the so-called novelties are silks
of divers weaves and colors , displaying
every possible arrangement In Uayadere
stripes. The novelty really consists In Die
strlp i ; thoraselvea. that are of velvet aii
wide , or narrow , or running In groups
spaced generously and always In bright con
trast to the silk above which they are
raised.
A deep olive green silk , for example , wHl
b barred \vlib one wide ruby red velvi ?
stripe between two very narrow ones of pale
green. A cream white peau do solo shows
trlpea of turquoise blue and coral pink vel
vet , and a pale gray armure displays stripes
of finely figured velvet In gray and pale
blue. It docs not require great strength
THE IMPERIAL HAIR
REGENERATOR
fop Qray or Bleached Hair
Is the only preparation before
tha publio today that restores
Gray.Hnirto its original color
or that gives to Bleached Hair
that uniform shade and lustre
without in sofvie manner injur
ing the scalp , the hair or the gen
ernl health ,
8 < sven colors cover all shades. 1'rlce , Jl.W
and three time * tha amount , (3.00.
Sole , Mnnutiicturem and Patentees.
Imperial Chemical MTp. Co. , 232 FUtl
Ave. , K. Y. Kor sale in Omaha by lUch
ardson Drue Co ,
Snerman & McConndl Drue Co.
Applied by all Hair Dressers. 1513 DodeeSt
t Imaclnatlon to picture the beauty ot
heso fabrics when worked up Into handsoffio
vcnlng toilets. Most chaste of all In their
plendor are the materials for brides-
ream untl Illy white moires , satins and
grain silks , each and every one striped the
width ot the goods with line grouped lines ,
r broad spaces of white velvet. Most choice
and rich In effect Is the Dayadcrc strlplui ;
on black silk and satin , and It Is no surprise
o ECO a deal of this handsome material
used In hat trimming.
lluriiyiird Foul * to tinFront. .
Evidently the slaughter , two years ago ,
f the songsters was as thorough-going In
ts way as the massacre of St. Bartholomew ,
or now that wings and tails , breasts and
tufted heads are once more the mode there
eems no market to draw upon. There is
urcly no doubt that plumage is the most
eslred hat garnishment , but the milliners
how a sorry array of all save ostrich feath-
rs.
rs.Tho
The honest barnyard fowl Is rushing Into
he breach gallantly , but only the wings are
cally. worth while , and there Is In conse-
uenco the greatest quantity of ugly , clumsy
manufactured plumage , cooked up from wire
ramcs , lace , jute chenille and spangles ,
hat serves as a poor substltuto Indeed. The
nly pretty things In a feathered way are
ho whlto ostrich plumes and down tufts
ouchcd with gray and black that seem prc-
iarcd for a season of well-earned usage ,
itost charming are the tufts of small snowy
lumes , powdered In very small black polka
ots , dyed In the white.
Another plan Is to dye only the quill and
pine of the plume black , else to dash' the
vhlto feather with flicks of gray. Whlto
uck wings are similarly spotted , greatly to
heir enhancement In decorative quality , but
or all this black and whlto Is not the rui
ng combination In hut architecture. It is
ifllcult to say just yet what Is.
Thcro Is In millinery as In dressmaking no
nodesty In color , and some of the delicate
apotes for theater wear are gay to the point
f frivolity. A round turban of black tulle
vlll have a half dozen wings , bright cerise
n tone , springing up from and bending
own against the hair audaciously ; a violet
oquo of llttlo corporal shape may have Its
AN AUTISTIC CREATION.
points finished by a knot of white ostrich
Ips that at O.own over the wearer's cars like
lellcato protectors against frost bite , and a
hlr < l pretty creation Is like as not to be a
ewcled Juliet cap with u fountain ot long
\hlto osprey springing high on one side.
Thus by contraries the small hats seem to
> o designed.
For Monilnif AVcnr.
Hats for morning street wear are still go
ng through the process ot evolution , and
some of their phases ore decidedly com
mendable. The favorites In this class are
rough surfaced felts , that Is , the crown Is
rough and the brim smooth , and it one Is
Ight brown the other is a much darker tone.
A. felt1 band la passed about the crown , and
a couple of quills are fastened on one side
> y the means ot their sharp pointed ends
jelng- thrust once or twice through the felt.
One can either tnash In the soft 'top , being
sure to give It a circular dent , or leave It
stiff and smooth..Tho point to bo emphasized
is that you ore not wearing an Alpine.
All these new felts are quite round , and
some of- them ore so arranged that the
wearer can change the cock of the brim at
will. For autumnal golfing the proper
wrinkle Is to buy a soft olive brown , or
grease tumbler , us It Is called. This has
no stiffening or binding to the brim. The
pliable- crown Is given a round dent and
girdled by a red silk handkerchief , picked
out with black polka dots. Tied around so
that the knot comes In front , a pretty small
silver pin Is thrust through knot and felt ,
and then the brim Is turned high up behind
and correspondingly low In front over the
cs.
A Jewel Spimon ,
An autumn with Imitation Jewels left out
will now bo welcomed In. Even the furs and
the belts are to lack their customary orna
mentation , though Jewels that are genuine
will bo as faithfully worn as ever , and
especially In all manner ot neck decorations.
The woman who boasts a half dozen throat-
lets of pearls or diamonds will show her
knowledge of the mode by wearing them all
at once and bogus pearls have happily lost
none of their popularity. Women whose
throats are not without blemish and who
wish to hldo hollows In their collar bones
can do the job very neatly by stringing as
many as three yards of pearls about the
throat and over the shoulders until this
gleaming armor generously blots out all na
ture's errors.
Young women whoso round white necks
and perfect shoulders ore their especial
pride , wear , tied about the throat , the nar
rowest bit of black babf velvet ribbon that
can be had , on which a very small heart of
diamonds is strung. The heart Is so made
ot dazzling , close-set little jewels that no
metal shows anywhere , while another pretty
method is to string on the ribbon a lozenge
of brilliant black enamel with a small heart
outlined on It in diamonds. The whole orna
ment is no longer than a 25-cent
piece , but the effect against very fair skin
causes complimentary comment. Women
who are not In mourning and love the wear
ing ot jet have adopted the pretty fancy ol
adorning themselves with elaborate Jet
necklaces. With high necked gowns these
are worn wound four tltnei about the throat
and falling In three loops on the breast ,
as low as the waist line. Jet beads , elabo.
rately cut and big as marrowfat peas , com
pose these chains , and every bead la aeoa. <
rated from the other by a small , thin disk of
crystal , very highly cut and polished.
Illuntrntliiii of Kimliloim.
In the family ot six autumn shirt waists
displayed , ono of them is green cashmere
flannel with a small , straight luncr vest ot
red Hllk. Itows of small tucks edge the vest ,
and by u scries ot pretty link buttons the
fronts are held In place over the vest. A red
cllk tie knots under the turn-over collar of
green and the full sleeves haVe clusters of
turks running their length.
A companion to this is of brown flannel
striped and dotted In black. All the button
holes of the shirt are worked In scarlet silk
and the front opens under the chin to almlt
n scarlet Ilium dickey girdled by n black
satin tie.
What tucks alone can flo Is showed by an
other waist of Hungarian blue flannel
striped perpendicularly with close , set tucks ,
sowed down with bright yellow silk. A soft
four-in-hand of blue flllk dotted 'with yel
low clasps the neck band.
A study In rovers of checked red and whlto
silk against a dull green background is
showed in the fourth figure , while the fifth
and sixth waists are of velveteen , ono Ty-
rian purple and the other heather grey ,
trimmed with gilt and silk braid. The last
In the list lsi fastened behind and boasts no
collar at all.
Of the two full-length figures given the
first explains the making of a dinner dress
in the tuo tones of black and ciel blue.
Black French crepe do chlno composes the
skirt and sides of the body. This last U
split down the center to show an Inner body
of shirred blue chiffon. Tho1 sleeves and
sash ore of the same color , while n black
oaproy stands up from a blue bow In the
hair.
hair.Tho
The second figure shows a pretty house
gown In brochcd cashmere and trimmed
with broad bullion braid , edged with quil
lings of narrow green ribbon to harmonize
with the green figure in the black goods.
MARY DEAN.
TO MAICK TUB IIOMI3 HAPPIER.
Lnuilulilc Object of a Woman' * Club
In MlnHuiirl.
High up In the Ozark mountains , on the
'Frisco railroad , there ts a Missouri town
called Lebanon , which has become known
abroad as the home of politicians of con
siderable state and natlpnol note. But no
democrat nor republican , with silver or
gold banner , ever exhibited such zeal as the
housekeepers of this community , who arc
banded together 'under a "Don't AVorry"
banner , .with the object ot promoting good
housekeeping by making household work a
pleasure , by transforming discord Into
system and harmony. They meet twice a
month and discuss all topics which pertain
to the welfare of the home , woman's own
peculiar realm , relates the Globe-Demo
crat. They apply business methods and
principles to the household. Perfect situa
tion , hygienic living , how to cook , how to
sow , how. to prevent gossip , how to rear
children , are only a' few ofthe timely top
ics of this common-sense club. Happy
mothers , helpful , cheerful wives and Ideal
homes are the results already achieved
here. Who shall say that Lebanon will ,
(
not some day bo famed far 'ana iwlde , no !
for giving to her nation a president , nor
to her state a governor , nor yet to political
conventions the flowers of those gatherIngs -
Ings , but for a movement , with home , sweet
home , as Its ideal.
The meetings are Informal. Thcro are
no "rules , " and all women of Lebanon and
vicinity , who are Interested In household
economy , are Invited to belong to this club.
Mrs. J. C. Wallace Is president and Mrs.
J. T. Bradshaw secretary. The members
are always on time and Just begin talking
In un "experience meeting , " each giving
her Ideas ns to the bugbear of houseworK.
Sweeping , dusting , dishwashing , domestic
servants , oil make up the trials of tlfo
week. Then the points are taken up and
discussed. Each woman present , who can
help her sister , gets up and tells how to
simplify those duties. Perhaps one member
is assigned the work of preparing the
breakfast menu of her owa family for a
week and bringing it , with the recipes for
each dish , to the next meeting. She must
limit her dishes to materials procured In
the Lebanon market. A now dish Is learned
at every meeting and Is published In the
columns of the town paper. Every recipe Is
accompanied by the authors name , so that
the readers of the paper know they are re
liable , true and tried. So there are others
besides the club members who make "scrap
books" of these cookery recipes.
"Education of the Children in the Homo"
was the subject discussed at one of the
meetings. "Can Hctdlly Bo Modified ? "
closely followed this subject. Heredity , env
vlronment and prenatal influences were de
cided to be the chief factors which mold
our lives. "Proper Peed Habits" was an
other Interesting subject , and then came
" ' " . This
a series of "Don't Worry" meetings.
little squib opened the subject : "Children , "
said a good man to the family gathered
around his deathbed , "during my long life
I have had a great many troubles , most of
which never happened. " The first question
was , "How can the habit of worrying be
conquered ? " This was the decision : It can
not bo done unless one forms a habit of de
termination to quit , then persevere with a
resolute effort. Gradually , mastery cornea ;
the habit of worry loses its power and quiet
ness and peace take the place of the rest
lessness , thai feverish anxiety which- robs
the human being ot all that Is attractive.
Life becomes real and earnest when this
method of undoing us ts mastered.
The Lebanon club adopted Scward's "Don't
Worry Rules , " used by organizations In Bos
ton and elsewhere. They arc :
1. Consider what must be Involved In the
truth that God Is infinite , and that you are
a part of his plan.
2. Memorize some of the scripture prom
ises and recall them when the temptation to
worry returns.
3. Cultivate a spirit ot gratitude for dally
mercies.
4. Realize worry as an enemy which de
stroys your happiness.
C. Realize that It can be cured by per-
slstent effort.
fl. Attack it definitely as something to bo
overcome.
. Realize that It never ban done and
never can do the least good. U wastes vi
tality nnd Impairs the mental faculties.
8. Help and comfort your neighbors.
0. Forgive your enemies and conquer your
aversions.
10. Induce others to Join the don't worry
movement.
TUIIIUTI2 TO WOMAN'S AVOHK.
Helen ( inuia'fl Sort Icon During tliu
War OilU'lnlly IlociiKiiUcil.
At a recent meeting of the city council
of Greater New York the following resolu
tion was unanimously adopted :
Whereas , Miss Helen Gould has exhibited
to the city nnd the notion ut largo a con
spicuous example of generous patriotism by
contributing $100,000 to the treasury of the
United States at a tlrao when the resources
of the country were taxed to moot the ex
penses of the late war with Spain , and
Whereas , Miss Gould has displayed such
practical and wotnanly Interest In the wel
fare of our sick and wounded sailors nnd
soldiers by personal administration and
generous helpfulness ; therefore , be It
Resolved , That the municipal assembly of
AN AUTUMN WOOL GOWN.
the city of New York now recognizes her
distinguished service to the United States
and directs the city clerk to convey to her
the assurance of its gratitude and admira
tion.
Shortly after making her gift of ? 100,000
to the government Miss Gould become on
active member of the Women's National
War Relief association , which had been
organized for the purpose of assisting the
eoldlers In the camps and hospitals. Miss
Gould has since been made assistant director
general of the association , and In the absence
of Mrs. Walworth , the director general , has
presided at moat of the meetings. One of
her first * acts after joining the association
was to visit the hospital ships Relief and
Olivette and to offer to the surgeons In
charge anything they might be In need of
in the equipment of the vessels. In some
cases her offers have been accepted and sup
plies were put on board each of these vessels.
Miss Gould also organized a party to visit
the hospitals ) In the harbor , and as a result
dietary kitchens were established at several
of them. Miss Gould became especially In
terested In this work at Montauk Point , and
has made several visits ' , o It. After each
visit she has personally supervised the pur
chase of supplies for the camp. That she
promptly realized'the great demand for re
lief work there was shown by her gift of
$25,000 to the association , which she an
nounced shortly after making her second
visit. With this money the work has been
enlarged and a week ago an elaborate sys
tem was put into execution for caring for
the convalescent soldiers returning from the
camp. This was planned by Miss Gould ,
and through her efforts a number of beau
tiful country homes have been secured for
the men. The offer of the Salvation Army
ot their barracks in East Fifteenth street
was accepted by Miss Gould , and no expense
has been spared In fitting It up suitably.
Aside from her work done In connection
with the association , Miss Gould has sent
delicacies and flowers to the soldiers spe
cially brought to her notice , and to those
who have been placed through her efforts
In various convalescent homes. Previous to
her gift of $23,000 to the association Miss
Gould had made liberal contributions to
enable It to carry on the work It was or
ganized to do.
SUSAN'S FICKM2 I.OVKH.
Story of Minn Anthoiiy'H Narrow
Gncait > front Matrimony.
U was during the visit of Susan B. An
thony to the home of her ancestors in iho
Berkshire hills that a house party assem
bled In tbo long , old-fashtoned parlor one
evening , and listened to the following in
teresting s.tory. . The mountain air was
sharp , nnd a flro bad been kindled In the
big brick fireplace , and the logs crackled
and flamed on the gleaming brass andirons.
Chairs were arranged In a semi-circle
around the cheerful hearth , and seated
therein were women of renown , living rep
resentatives of women's progress In the
world of letters and the lecture field.
First and best revered was Susan B. An
thony herself , and , as the conditions and
environments were Ideal for a story , a
romance of the past contcmoorary with the
surroundings , Aunt Susan was Impor
tuned to relate some of her experiences.
"Tell us come of your love stories , " they
all cried as one.
"But I never had any worth telling , " she
declared. "Thcro wasn't a bit of romance
In any of my 'affairs. ' 1 alwnya said , like
the old maid , that the man 1 wanted
wouldn't have me , and these that wanted
mo were so bail that the devil himself
wouldn't have them. " But Miss Anthony
wasn't to escape HO easily , nnd It cudcd In
her relating the following tale :
The room was lighted only by the flicker
ing firelight , which shone on Miss An
thony's face ns she talked , sllbouctto-llkc
against the dark shadows In the back
ground.
Then she told how ono time when she
was traveling through some western Btato ,
holding conventions , many years ago , when
she was not morp than thlrty-fivo years
old , eho was entertained at the house ot a
young man who made himself particularly
agreeable to her. He had a spanking team
of grays , and whenever Miss Anthony had
to go to town this young man and his
grays were at hoj disposal. She was an
nounced to speak In a town sonic miles dis
tant , while there , and when they wuro
all ready to start this devoted young man
had arranged It so that Miss Anthony waste
to rldo with him alone In his fine turnout.
After they were nicely started he came to
the point at once with :
"Will you have mo ? "
"What for ? " was Aunt Susan's blunt
reply.
"Will you marry mo ? " the suitor con
tinued. Then ho proceeded to tell her of hla
worldly possessions , his flno house , his
lands , etc. , nil of which should bo at her
command , If she would only take him along
with them. He promised Aunt Susan that
ho would never stand In the way of her
chosen work , but that , on the contrary , ho
would help her In any way In his power
to further the suffrage movement. Ho
pointed out to her , with all thct persuasive
art which man so well knows how to use ,
that her Ufa was a hard one , knocking
about from pillar to post , and that It wouhl
bo much easier with him to help and com
fort her.
Mies Anthony listened , as women have
slnco the first woman was tempted by tbo
serpent , and she concluded that her life
was rather a hard and lonely ono , and that
It would bo mighty nice to have a fine homo
to go to when tired and weary with her
oft-times thankless labors. But she felt
that she coulil not dee'diro momon'ous a
question with BO llttlo tlmo for serious con
sideration , and EO she told the amorous
suitor. She was to be gone a week at the
convention , and she asked him to wait for
her answer until her return , which ho
agreed to do.
Miss Anthony did not say what lier
decision had been , but tmaglno her surprise
and disgust to learn upon her return that
the faithless swain had In the meantime
married another woman , and was oven
then enjoying a wedding trip with her.
Yes , ho did not wait for the week's proba
tion , and the second bride , more wise than
Miss Anthony had been , did not wall for
his ardor to cool , but accepted him on the
spot , and married him at onco. Miss
Anthony has often wondered slnco what her
llfo would have been If she had done like
wise.
The next story was told by Mrs. Rachel
Foster A very. She chose as her subject Miss
Anthony's trip abroad. This was some fif
teen years ago , and Mrs. Avery , then Mlsa
Foster of Philadelphia , accompanied Miss
Anthony to be her "ears and tongue , " as
j Mrs. Avery expressed It , for Miss Anthony
| could speak only her native tongue , and ,
like many other Americans , she did not See
| ' why the rest of the world did not speak her
own language. Miss Anthony's Intense
Americanism was also manifested In her use ,
or ! , more correctly speaking , her misuse , of
foreign titles. During her travels she met
peers and princes of the highest degree , but
she was never for the llfo of her able to
call them by their correct titles. And , to
make matters worse , she Invariably gave
them a title of lower degree than their rank
demanded. For Instance , a countess she
would address as "madam , " a prince or
princess as "count" or "countess , " a duke
as "count , " and so on through the list. Then
she never called them twlco by the same
tltlp , mixing things up in the most bewilderIng - i
Ing manner , and usually ending by calling
them Mr. and 'Mrs. ' Miss Foster usually !
gave Aunt Susan lessons on the use of titles
before each of their visits , but U made na 1
difference ; before she left the result was
always the same.
Prills of Fnnhlon.
Surpllco effects are much used on the
bodices of silk or satin wedding gowns.
Cyrano Is ono of the newest colors. It la
a rich ruby , and becoming alike to dark and
fair.
Antique pendants are worn on long Jeweled
chains 4n place of the purse or lorgnette ; as
formerly.
Very pretty photograph frames consist of
various designs in silver and velvets of deli
cate shades.
Pretty umbrella handles of carved Ivory
and silver with gold tracery are again
ohown.
White lace coato fastened around the
waist with narrow bands of black vel < rot
| ribbon are heralded for the afternoon tea
hostess this winter.
Rounding fronts , arching bnck toward the
hlpa , represent one of the new feuturt-s uf
stylish jackets and coats accompanying the
newest tailor costumes.
The lucky rabbit's foot Is still fashionable.
Instead of a plain silver mounting , It Is now
ornamented with a gold or sliver rabbit's
head with ruby or garnet eyes.
Cut Jet will bo much used this winter and
pearl and turquolso ornaments with rhlne-
stoncs. Pins with Irregular shaped pearl
heads are seen In the trimming on many
hats.
hats.Tho
The new purple or plum-red tailor cloths ,
velvet , satin brocades and henriettas are ex
ceedingly artistic nnd beautiful , and very
becoming to either a blonde or a brunette
with color.
A dainty tea jacket Is made of accordion-
pleated liberty silk , which falls unconfinrd ,
back and front , from a square shirred yoke
of the same material1. The platted sleeves
reach only to the elbow.
Mohair braid In various widths and but-
t'ons of graded size trim the skirts and bodIces -
Ices ot rough dress fabrics , and silk braid :
'
and small tailor buttons ornament the costumes -
tumes made of finer weaves of wool and silk !
and wool materials. [
Trimming for bats has a central point
either at the side or In front. A street hat
ONE
TRIAL BOTTLE
.
THIS OFFKtt ALMOST SURPASSES BliLIKF.
An External Tonic Applied to the Skin
Beautifies It As by Magic.
The Discovery OF the Age
.
A WOMAN WAS THE INVENTOR.
Thousands have tried from time immem
orial to discover some efficacious remedy
for wrinkles and other Imperfections of
! the complexion , but none hail ytt suc
ceeded until the Misses Bell , the now fam
ous Complexion Specialists , ot 7S Fifth
avenue , New York City , offered the pub-
lie their wonderful Complexion Tonic.
I
j The reason so many failed to make this
i discovery before Is plain , because they have
1 not followed the right principle. Balms ,
' Creams , Lotions , etc. , never have a tonic
effect upon the skin , hence the failures.
The Misses Bell's Complexion Tonic has
a most exhilarating effect upon the cuticle ,
absorbing and carrying off all Impurities
which the blood by Its natural action Is
constantly forcing to the surface of the
skin. It Is to the skin what a vitalizing
tonic Is to the blood and nerves , a kind ot
new life that Immediately exhilarates and
strengthens wherever applied. Its tonic
effect Is felt almost Immediately , and It
speedily buulshcs forever from the skin ,
freckles , pimples , blackheads , moth patches ,
wrinkles , liver spots , roughness , olllncss ,
eruptions and dlscolorattons of any kind.
In order that all may bo benefited by
their Great Discovery , the Misses Bell will ,
during the present month , give to all call-
THE MISSES BS.LL , 78 Fifth AVC. . New York uty.
The KIliwci llcll'a Complexion Tonic , Complexion Sonp , Skin Food null D -
Iillu are ( or anle by all druauUts.
has a rosette directly In front , with feathers
passing from It ) on cither tide to the back
of the hat , or the mass ot trimming Is at
the side with the feathers.
Strlpwl piques with miniature flowers be
tween the stripes are being largely employed
for single nnd double-breasted vests , as well
as for those showing no opening , to bo worn
with tailor-made gowns. Vests are also
fashlonod of bandana handkerchiefs , the ef
fect being striking under a dark coat.
The deeply pointed peplura oversklrts of
the season do not always match the under
skirt , nnd. It preferred , can bo made of
entirely different fabric ; therefore , If this
particular utylo finds favor , It may prove
moat desirable for remodeling gowns in
which two suits or dresses are freshened or
made over into one.
The deslro for pretty oTd-fashloned nnd
colonial effects in house furnishings is shown
in bedspreads , with the whlto center like
the ordinary Marseilles spread , while on the
plain , wire border is a pretty flower design
In colors. These are maidenhair ferns ,
roses , bachelor buttons and ofher popular de
signs. Some of the spreads are entirely cov
ered with the flower design.
The popularity of velvet wraps and gowns
this winter Is already assured. This will
bo good news , for It is a fabric that Is uni
versally becoming. Manufacturers , fortu
nately , have reduced Its weight by about
half , nnd so the only serious drawback that
this material had IB removed. It Is Bald
that pointed cloth draperies will bo worn
over velvet skirts Joined to bodices.
The now autumn weaves In drap d'eto ,
double-faced cashmere , and camel's hair are
exceedingly handsome , and prove n great
temptation to these In search of fine goods
for the making of smart gowns for the fall
and winter. The finest grades In camel's
hair are said positively to come from India
looms. They are Hither expensive compared
with other qualities , but they pay for them
selves In the end.
Ono of the newest sleeves Is made In one
length , but In two parts , the under nldo be
ing straight and unimportant. The upper
part of the slcevo shows three largo tucka
at the top and these are repeated at the
wrist , the lowest ono forming a bell-shaped
cuff over the hand. This sleeve gives that
somewhat broad effect to the shoulders
which nearly every woman needs nnd at the
same tlrao it preserves the close , small ef
fect so essential to style.
Many beautiful dyes have been added to
the season's color list , which are effective
offsets to shades already familiar , notably
Roman red , a superb color , vhat will bo
much used for dress accessories and autumn
and winter millinery. The color Is neither
crimson , cherry nor geranium. Cranberry
Jelly , held up to the light In a clear crystal
glass , gives the nearest reflection of Us rich ,
beautiful tone.
For elderly women are some now shawl-
shaped capes , almost as long as a shawl
proper , formed very much like the newest fur
capos. These are inado variously of corded
silk , plain satin , or brocade , and are trim
med with a deep graduated ruffle of the
same , or with rather wide lace. These
capes add greatly to the beauty and effect
of a black costume , anil although only silk-
lined , have considerable warmth , without
being heavy.
The rose Is being painted this year In the
way of the combination of ribbons , chiffons ,
etc. , with furs. A chinchilla 'collar has fur
on that part of II which stands up around
the face and small lapcN down the front ;
the rcet of the collar , falling over the
shoulders , IB of plaited chltfon or tnouHseilno
do sole. Other capes arc made similarly ,
though with a somewhat larger proportion
of fur. Black ribbon bows , with or with-
SMART AUTUMN SHIRTWAISTS.
era at their parlors one trial bottle ot their
Complexion Toulo absolutely free ; and la
order that these who cannot call or who
llvo away trom New York may bo bene
fited , thuy will scud ono bottle to any ad
dress , all charges prepaid , on the receipt ot
25 cents ( stamps or silver ) to cover cost ot
packing and deliveringTbo price ot thin
wondcrtul tonic is Jl-00 per bottle , and
this liberal otter should be embraced by all.
The Mls.ea Dell have just published
their now book , "Secrets of Ueauty. "
This valuable nork Is tree to all desiring
It. The book treats exhaustively of the
Importance of a good complexion ; tells
how a woman may acquire beauty nnd
keep It. Special chapters on the care of
the hnjj ( : how to have luxuriant growth ;
harmless methods of making the hair preserve >
servo its natural beauty and color , even to
advanced age. Also Instructions how to
banish superfluous hair from tbo face ,
neck and arms without Injury to the sxlu.
This book will bo mailed to any address on
request.
FttEE Trial nettles of Wonderful Com
plexion Tonic free at parlors , or 25 cents
( cost of packing and mailing ) to those at a
distance.
Correspondence cordially solicited. Ad
dress
out ends , finish tbo capo at the neck in
front. A simple cape , having a simple bow
at the throat , has also a rhlncstone buckle
or clasp. Muffs have a took of the horns
decorator In the mass ot ribbons and arti
ficial ( lowers covering them.
Fcinliiliic I'cmoiiula ,
Mrs. Takahashl , whoso Japanese husband
Is the publisher of the Shlnpo , a Hawaiian
nowspa ; > r , has learned enough English In u
year to become the business head of th
publication.
Dr. Estella M. ItUny , the first woman
doctor to bo glveu the Appointment of dis
trict physician In Cincinnati , was graduittd
trom the Laura Memorial college In 1895.
She was ono of several women applicants for
such uu appointment. She Is pretty , Inter
esting and vivacious.
Mrs. Elizabeth Custcr , widow ot General
[ luster , has Just returned to her Georgia
liome from a trip to Egypt , where she wan
engaged In gathering material for anothtr
book. Mrs. Ouster has written eovoral books
on her husband's work and western camp
life , her whole time since his tragic death
having been devoted to literature.
St. Louis has only one woman lawyer and
3t. Louts Is proud of her. She is Miss Daisy
Dorothy Uarbeo and Is about 25 years old.
The leading members ot the bar regard her
with friendly Interest , holding out a helping
hand when a chance cornea their way to do
EO. At present Miss Uarboa is giving her
attention to some civil cases and Is achieving
success.
Miss Helen Gould dislikes extremely , It is
said , the prominence she Is receiving In tha
dally papers for her acts of generous charity
to the soldiers. "Do you think , " eho asked
a woman reporter the other day , "If editor *
know that It caused mo actual suffering to
BOO the ridiculous stories about me and pic
tures of mo that are published that they
would stop them ? "
Mrs. Mary Doullut , wife of Captain
Doullut , a boat builder of Now Orleans , has
passed a brilliant examination as a steam
boat pilot , and la a member of the American
Association of Masters and Pilots , having
been admitted unanimously on a high ratine
is to knowledge and bravery. Mrs. Doullut
lias been married fourteen years and most
of that time has been spent with her husband
on the water.
The young qucon of Holland has promptly
boon appointed a colonel in the German
army , lloyal woman colonels have no fight
ing to do , or tlrcsomo military details to
look after , but they lead troops and draw
their salaries , which Is a much moro lady-
llko thing than drawing swords , and In per
fect accord with the conventional royal thrift
In the way of annexing convenient llttlo per
quisites to Btato revenues.
A writer In the Washington Post nays th
Idea that It has never been given to any
American woman until now to play such a
part In the Urltlah empire as has fallen to
tbo lot of Mrs. George N. Curzon ts a mis
take. The marquis of Wellesluy , elder
brother of the great duke of Wellington , was
not only ono of the most celebrated of all
the British rulers ot India , but likewise
served two separate terms as viceroy ol
Ireland. Hla consort waa an American
woman , ono ot 'the three beautiful daughtora
of nichurd Caton of Philadelphia , and grand
daughter of Charles Carroll ot Carrolltou ,
signer of the Declaration of Independence.
As far as power Is concerned , it may bn
quefltlonod whether Lady Randolph Churchill
In the pust and Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain at
the present moment have not enjoyed a
greater degree of Influence than Mrs. Curzon.
Annual Balaa ovorOOOO 060 Box * *
ron BILIOUS AND NERVOUS DisoRDERa
such a * Wind and Pain In the Stomach.
Giddiness , luluesa after muals , Head *
ache. Dizziness , Drowcinoss. FlURhlnen
of Heat , JU > aa of Appotlto. CoRtlveness.
Blotches on the Bkln. Cold Chills. Dis
turbed Bleep. Frlchtdil Dreama and all
Nervous and Trembling Bonsutlon" .
THE FIRST D03E WILL GIVE RELIEF
IN TWENTY MINUTES. Every aufforec
will uckuowlodco them to bo
A WONDERFUL MEDICINE ,
. . PILMJ. taken as direct
ed , will quickly restore Females to com-
pinto health. They promptly remove
obstructions or Irregularities of the eys-
torn and cure Hick Iicuiluclio. Fora
Weak Stomach "
Impaired Digestion
Disordered Liver
IN MEN , WOMEN OR CHILDREN
Boocham's Pills are
Without a Rival 1
And bit * tb *
LARGEST SALE
of any Patent Medicine lit t lie World.
26c. atull DrucBtoroi.
,