Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, September 18, 1898, Part II, Page 14, Image 14
.in I ft I I I -I I f / r M THE OMAHA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , SEPTEMBER 18 , 1808. ( © a I & M IT/ ' \V fofa < si t3XSa > * ! o7\s2 \ , > X \ S5\jySfs 5SrsjK@5\ ! ) < a xjayo vis ) s < gj > vS3i > x. < jgj ® \ g/yo ? < 3Ni - | x sia = $ < a , p AP m THF. DOMAIN OF WOMAN , p P t § J WF jv's nccnnns ron AUTUMN. Viirleil Shniien In Millinery The Court Sleet e , OutMlilu INickrtu , Klc. NEW YORK , Sept. 15. Welcoming the coming1 huturan and speeding the parting Rummer 'is a task the milliners are busy about. So far ns shop windows arc concerned - corned the frlyolous straws and Mowers bavo disappeared before a strong September gale , bearing felts rind -velvets In Its arms. How far , from n , standpoint of beauty , we have profited by the change remains to bo seen. . There arc those who look very dubious over the autumnal prospect , eo far as It reaches , nnd candor demands the confession that a goodly proportion of the much heralded 'toques ' look very lllio hasty puddings. . They are , In the majority of cases , oktrcrricly solid affairs , built on the strata principle. ; Jhat Is , a layer of felt , then ft superstructure , of velvet , above this spangled or embroidered' tullea , and finally a topping off of feathers. Such. toques as tbeso look quite ns well set on the head hind stdo before as the other way round , and , by their weight and heat , they nro calculated to Injure the growth of ono's hair , even to the bringing about of Incipient baldness. As regards height these com plicated round things arc stalwart to a degree , and they can bo no more tolerated In the theaters than the wldo and lofty head gear we felt heir to last spring. Hutu fur Bvcry Goivn. There Is , however , a silver lining to this cloud of objections , for the greater number of these toques are distinctly pretty and to ninety-eight women our of 100 the toque Is a becoming crown. One good thing about It Is that It blends most comfortably with your circumstances and If you are quick with your fingers you can weave a hat to match nearly every gown this winter. For example : Heaps and heaps of these Jaunty little top-knots will be made of Just the goods from which visiting or walking gowns nro made. If your best suit Is to bo a rich French livery cloth , a fourth of a yard of the stuff , gracefully puffed and distorted over a wire frame , gives you the toque proper. Add to this a knot or two of bright harmonious velvet , caught down by bril liant ornaments , right from a hat of last year , tuck In a fluff of short ostrich tips over one ear and there ! without hint or help from a milliner , Is a thing of beauty nnd a Joy for all autumn. As a matter of fact there Is no reason , In this season of small bead ornaments , why women of any depth of purse should not have as many changes of hata as they have of gowns. Of course these fortunatcs who never borrow anything from last year's wardrobes , but begin every season with brand new rai ment from toe to crown , are going to revel to the point of extravagance among the Bpoclal materials , Imported and otherwise , that the milliners offer for toque construc tion alone that Is to say the painted vel vets and the embossed satins , not to speak of the chenille embroidered nets that are npread forth In all their seductive richness. These , for rich -folks , are the very corner stones of toque building , nnd there la a lovely goods , called braided satin , that has a great vogue. Breasts and the tall feathers of brlds are , for > tht nartlcular specimen of Jiat , most ought1 after and utilized so that the sheeny plumage will fall against the hair at either aide. Last winter there was a fancy for wearing a knot of white .ostrich tips utralghtly upstanding from a point some where Just above the left temple. This easpn the sarao earnest -attention will bo given to , velvet horns , Jutting at correspond ing ancles from Just above cither side of the brow. Sometimes the horns are twisted and oprlng from Jeweled circles , sometimes they stand straight forwi 1 and erect like the prlckcij up ears of p. . ulllgent donkey nnd sometimes they ar . ; back and close together. In a very M < ! Imitation of a mule's obstinate expie < "em Hut whatever the angle of the hon.s , there they are , piquant , aggressive and Indisputably most chic and becoming. Almost as character istic of the newly arrived race of toques are the rosettes , or to better describe these o'rnamcntB , the Ilaun'tlng bows that adorn them at the front , sides or 'rear. A wheel bow proper Is a circular ornament of any material preferred with a Jewel In Us center. Those most universally adopted are made of smallest black ostrich tips , or soft and highly tinted water fowl plumage , springIng - Ing from a sparkling center. Exceedingly narrow ribbon with wired edges makes a cnplvatlnc cockade ; so does crisp net , nnd oven a bias piece of velvet , with Its rim treated with line gold milliners' wire , serves. I'VH ' MIUJICH Union * . Though the rule of the modes Is that all toques are fashionable , not all fashionable headgear of necessity takes the form of a toquo. On every hand the most enticing felt Bhnres attract one In the millinery matt" What these shapes enjoy , however , Ip common with tbolr toque brethren Is rjoundnccs and politeness of form. Leaders tunons them , In the department of distinctly ornamented hats , are the Little Corporal , Test Boy and I'ctcr the Great shapes , The Ltttlo Corporal Is nothing more nor less than a small Incroyable , or the queerly cocked felt that was worn In the period of French dandyism Immediately following tha French revolution. It Is built of the most ellken soft felt , and In his mighty youth Napoleon the Great were one , at least when lie was a little corporal In the French army. In Napoleon's day n cockade significant of the liberty , equality and fraternity that was supposed to reign over the pacudo re public adorned the face of the sharply up turned front brim , and the milliners have everywhere made use of the Idea. Instead of liberty , equality and fraternity , the huge NBUVOl'S WO3IUX. The Opinion of n ruinous Mciltcul Writer nn to the Ciiti e. In a recent lecture on diseases of women , Dr. Hartman said : "A nervous woman Is always a sick woman. Some drain on her system is the cause of it. If the mucous membranes are healthy , the woman Is usually healthy. Each one of the numerous nnd delicate organs of the human body Is lined with mucous membrane. The slightest catarrhul congestion of any of these mem branes gives rise to weakening discharges , which leads to nervousness , and finally pros tration. Pe-ru-na is the only remedy that I have ever found to bo of lasting use In these cases. Thousands of women are lan guishing with the very common ailment known as female weakness , which in almost every Instance is caused by catarrh of the pelvic organs. Pe-ru-na will cure tbeso cases promptly and permanently. " Mrs. Luoy Lee , Naples , Texas , writes : "I am en joying better health than I ever did In my life. I can't praise Pe-ru-na enough ; It Is the greatest medicine there Is in the world. " Dr. Hnrtman'a latest book , written es pecially for women , "Health and Deauty , " will bo eent free to. any address by The TI - . . > . r > < - T v niifaMnrlt" ( "nmnnnv rosette on the front of a Little Corporal hat usually represents rank extravagance and ovq of color. The cockade Is made of mirror velvet , 'tis nigh as big 03 a baby cabbage ana in Its heart sparkles n jewel. Rosettes on a more modest plan , and Eorno of them vlth floating ribbon ends , seem linlf falling out of the trough-like sides of the hat , or a cnot of ostrich feathers trims off three cor ners , and usually a mild panache of the laruo plumes waves above the crown of t'he lat. Occasionally the front brim of a Little Corporal Is silt In the center from ciown of a brilliant color In sharp contrast with he brim. This mismatching of the two parts of a hat Is a favorite device for the fall , and one and all the good felts show nn ex ceptionally soft and pliable quality. Slate bluet peacock green and copper irown are some of the favored colors In cits so far , while the Importers are show- toward the back and carry It two Inches down on the arm. The under sldo teams of the waist are also carried along the arm a distance to properly correspond and Chen , a couple of Inches below Its usual position , the sleeve Is fitted In. This Is calted the ' I court sleeve since It displays the curve of the shoulder as a presentation dress at the court of St. James Is required t . Two pleats , or a tiny epaulette , else an elaborate braided pattern Is placed where the sleeve meets this long shoulder seam nnd thus something almost new has been evolved from the lively Parisian brain. Dressmakers have at last done away wlt'h the skirt pocket entirety. For a couple of. seasons now the pocket's fate has been hang ing in the balance and its location was at the placket hole , where only one out of every fifty women reached It. Now that a wee bit of stiffening Is located hero the pocket has * T JfQjf PARTIng © Q Ing hata that have fur crowns and felt brims , felt crowns nnd velvet brims and very smart walking shapes mode all of the roughest braid wound on wire frames. In velvet shapes there are many new things to captivate one's admiration and attention , for some of the velvets are attractively striped , Interspersed with satin dots or woven In ridges that resemble the pattern of corduroy. The Alpine Ousted. A round tubby little felt hat with n highly ridged brim , called the Acorn , and trimmed with hawk's quills , Is the sort of headpiece the close follower of fashion wears , when she goes about her early mornIng - Ing business In the street. It has not the smallest relation to the Alpine , for the top of Us rather stiff crown Is as round and level as a table and Instead of a crown band ridges of felt , that might by a stretch of the Imagination bo called small tucks , fal low the crown's circumference. The brim turns no equally on all sides and from a steel buckle , planted flat on the hat , the quills sprout. Now this may not be beauti ful , but It's very neat and new , and truly we ore weary of the Alpine genus. As the sphere of hats widens by the week so also does that of dress , and we find after a season of fair experiment the tailors are lapsing back Into the habit of lining their Skirts as of yore , Instead of using the separate sham. From Paris some of the dressmakers have brought over a goods of which they expect great things. It Is used for skirt linings and Is called silk paper. One of Its chief virtues Is crlspncss that does not fall and endurance beyond that of the most expensive silk. In price It coin- minds In Paris something less than cheap silk , but over here It Is still a novelty and an experiment. The HnlngR of dresses are , If possible , more elegant than ever and all women In these days , when something like sumptuary laws ought really to be passed , seem to afford silk doublures. Dressmaker * as a rule like to cover the interiors of skirts with silks In sharp contrasts to the wool eoods. The most dazrllng stripes are not regarded In bad taste , but the stripes must run horizontally , not In the perpen dicular , A Queer Sleeve. There is no news , since the last edict , about sleeves , except that you can spread them all over with braiding , let them fall open , cup shape , on the shoulder , In case you should have a narrow chest , or on a plain cloth gown do a very now thing by not setting in your sleeve on the usual shoulder line. True enough , onfy women with wonderfully perfect physiques can en dure rue test , but dressmakers don't pretend to say who is a Venus and who is not , and for nv enntomfr a ralstrus ot tha needle been ousted at last from ornamented skirts. The snug fit of our autumn petticoats gives not a cranny for Its replacing , but ) the tail ors are making shopping and rainy day , bi cycle and golf skirts with one good square pocket sowed on the outsldo nnd on the front , where the wearer can revel In whole some enjoyment of Its comforts. Indeed some exceedingly smart braided skirts are shown with pockets applied to the outside , but so cleverly braided about and over as to bo almost concealed while they do their good work. UliiMtrntloiiH of KnNhloiiN. Significant hats Indeed nro the three set forth with all their most marked character istics. Uy their names ono may know them , for they are excellent exponents of what the Little Corporal , the Post Doy and the Peter the Great should be. The Little Corporal Is of green French felt , bearing on Its broad facade a tosctto ofelvct In a lighter green tone and caught In the center by a flat button of brilliants. Ribbon loops ot green velvet fall nnd flutter from the points of thu bat , while above the crown flutter a dark and a pale green plumo. The Post Boy is a warm robin red felt , turned off the face , and its front brim edged with a shirred red velvet ribbon that falls at one sldo Into a plump cockade , mingled with dashes of brown velvet. A cluster of shaded brown and red ostrich feathers gives the hat height and dignity. A brown ridged felt brim , turning back from tbo face about a sapphire blue felt crown , Is the color and material of the third hat. A fold of black velvet winds about the crown and a varied bow of the same orna ments the front of the brim. This springs from a cut steel buckle , while a pair of smooth black wings , powdered with steel sequins , gives just the required note of fashionable eccentricity. A princess gown in rough sandstone , red camel's hair and relieved only by a vest of rich green and white brocade , Is the sub ject of ono of the single Illustrations this week , and shows to what severity of outline the smart dressmaker Is tending. A sketch gives a pretty blue peau de gazelle cloth braided In black and opening over a vest of silk muslin. This Is something In a more approachable form for the woman who will not trust to the classic pos sibilities of her figure , while yet more agreeable Is the third suit of soft brown winter cashmere and Invisible brown velvet. There Is bltfck braid used tastefully on the skirt and the little jacket that falls over the velvet body Is almost wholly covered with braiding on cashmere. SPONSOR FOR TUB 1M.INOI.S. The I.nily Choxcii to Chrlatcn the t ; rn I llnttleHhlp. Miss Nancy Leltcr of Chicago has been chosen by Governor Tanner to christen the battleship Illinois , which Is to be launched at Newport NOWB , October . She Is one of the thrco daughters ot tha noted Letter family , the eldest being Mra. Curzon , wlfo of the newly-appointed British viceroy of India. Miss Letter Is tall and Blender , with violet eyes and fair hair. She Is decidedly literary In her tastes. She has enjoyed sev eral seasons of popularity In Washington nnd London. Tbo ceremony of christening a chip Is ' simple and Impressive. Upon this occasion. Governor Tanner nnd his staff , with Miss Leltcr and her party , will stand nt the bow of the ship , nnd just ns the last block Is re moved Miss Letter will break over the bow I the bottle of champagne or water , which will J bo Incaceil in a silk net. She will cay : "I [ christen theo Illinois. " The scene of n great ship gliding from Its resting place Into the I water Is ono of great majesty. CI2LI.V THAXTO.VS 1'AHUOT. A Coy , Art lea * anil llxtroiuely 1'ollto lllril. A few years ngo when Miss Thaxton lived on an Island off the const of Now England , among her flowers and birds was a gray parrot - | rot that she had Inherited from her mother. But It must bo admitted that Polly , how ever much she was endeared to the poet through long association with her family , was roundly hated by the Islanders. Although only a bird , she was like an i extremely disagreeable person and having I passed nearly all her llfo In the society of human beings Instead of with her fellow parrots , she had taken on their views and Ill-mannered ways , Instead of their virtues , very much ns do savages when brought Into contact with civilization. Ono of the ways by which Polly made her self disagreeable was through her powers of mimicry. To her mistress she was Invari ably sweetness and courtesy , and she would say "C-c-1-l-a , C-c-1-l-a , " as If she were calling the name of her most Idolized friend , In the most musical and endearing tones possible , nnd from that turn to Imitating the bashful , whispering utterances of a shy little Norwegian maid until the girl would bo teased beyond endurance. In approaching Polly's cage It was no un usual thing for a visitor to bo captivated with her coy and artless mauncr , nnd the very caressing way she had of putting out a claw In friendly welcome , and thin when the unwary mortal was within her reach , she would drive that enticing claw Into hla llesh llko a thing of Iron. There was never any trusting her , for she was sure In the end to be treachery Itself. When she seemed to think the atmosphere too quiet , or when jealous of visitors talking to her beloved mlstrcfcs , she would break out Into a ter rific HCrecch that could be heard all over tbo island. Among the whims that seized Polly and she seemed forever to be Intent upon mis chief was to annoy the now driver of an express wagon by shouting "Whoa" to his horse in the exact volco of the former driver , which would bring the animal from a smart trot to a sudden halt. Let It bo said to Polly's credit that she was no mean songstress. Her favorite airs were "Yankee Doodlo" nnd a jumble of a Norwegian tune. She had also a peculiar whistle , which a composer wove Into a serenade called "Polly , " and she frequently ended her song , or whistle , with one high and very sharn note. One day Polly escaped from her perch and was lost sight of for several days. The ground was white with an early snow nnd the poet's brother , who was fond ot hunt ing , went out with his gun. While wander ing about In search of gajne ho saw In a tree what ho concluded wns an owl or gull , and lifting his gun , took aim to shoot. Sud denly ho was arrested by the sharp cry of "Ccdrlc , Codrlc ! " The bird had called him by name and was no other than Polly her self , who for once at least , by a word in good season , had saved her own life. Of course Cedrlc got Polly down and took her homo , where she proclaimed her return by sending over the island one of her famous shrieks. After the death of the poet Polly again disappeared and r-as never more seen. Just what her fate was has not yet been dis covered , but it Is supposed that she wns poisoned or In some way secretly killed. That her llfo had been so long spared In the midst of her many enemies all of her own making was due to the Influence of her beloved mistress , for whose sake since her death , no birds have been allowed to be shot on tbo Island , because she so loved them. TUB 12MIMIUSS TL'B.V. The Itoiiinntlo lint True Illntory of Chlnii'H Ileitl Unler. The true story of the woman who Is at the head of the Chinese empire Is of extraor dinary significance as well as interest. It has been told how , disappointed with her son's weak and characterless rule , sh has again taken Into her own hands , openly , the reins of power which she has held In truth for a generation. This monarch , \\ho is comparable to Catharine of Russia In her sagacity and shrewdness nnd Judicial wis dom , was once a slave. When she was a little girl she was sold by her father to be a slave In the family ot a viceroy in a ie- mote province of China. Her father was of Tartar blood , and ono of those who could read , and would not have thought of selling his child , although she wns "nothing but a girl , " but as the family had become desti tute In a rebellion the little girl of 11 sug gested this means of getting bread for her mother nnd little brother and her father the little brother whom long after she sought and made rich and powerful. Tuen served the viceroy's wlfo nnd moth- er-lu-la\v , and was taught spinning nnd other useful arts by their maids. When she was 12 she cmbioldcred a beautiful tunic for the viceroy , and he was so delighted with It that he offered the little slave whatever she F V. 57" " ONE H J TRIAL I30TTLE J THIS OFFKK ALMOST SURPASSES II ELI E thp ! ( in pplied to iiio osvaio Beautifies It As by Magic. OF A WOMAN WAS THE INVENTOR. Thousands have tried from time Immem orial to discover some efficacious remedy for wrinkles and other Imperfections of the complexion , but none had ytt suc ceeded until the Misses Hell , the now fam ous Complexion Specialists , of 78 Fifth avenue , New York City , offered the pub lic their wonderful Complexion Tonic. The reason BO many failed to make this discovery before is plain , bocausa they have not followed the right principle. Balms , Creams , Lotions , etc. , never have a tonic effect upon the skin , hence the failures. The Misses Hell's Complexion Tonlo has a most exhilarating effect upon the cuticle , absorbing and carrying off all impurities which the blood by its natural action Is constantly forcing to the surface of the ekln. H Is to the skin what n vitalizing tonic Is to the blood nnd nerves , a kind of new llfo that Immediately exhilarates and strengthens wherever applied. Its tonic effect Is felt almost Immediately , and it epeedlly banishes forever from the skin , freckles , pimples , blackheads , moth patches , wrinkles , liver spots , roughness , olllncss , eruptions and dlscoloratlons of any kind. In order that all may bo benefited by their Oreat Discovery , the Misses Bell will , during the present month , give to all call- wished most. Then Tuon fell ou her knees and declared her heart's desire. She wanted to learn to road llko her father. It was a most extraordinary request. The viceroy told her that girls could not learn such a thing , but Tuen told him S"JG was not to blame that the gods had made her a girl , and Bhi ) could not help longing to know how to read. So her master had her taught , nnd , his own daughter dying after a time , she SOME Al TUMN HATS. crs at their parlors one trial bottle of their Complexion Tonic absolutely free ; and la order that those who cannot call or who llvo away from New York may bo bene fited , they will send one bottle to any ad dress , all charges prepaid , on the receipt of 25 cents ( stamps or silver ) to cover cost of packing nnd delivering. The price of this wonderful tonlo IB $1.00 per bottle , and this liberal offer should be embraced by all. The Misses Dell have Just published their new book , "Secrets of Uenuty. " This valuable work la frco to all desiring It. The book treats exhaustively of the Importance of a good complexion ; tells how a woman may acquire beauty and keep It. Special chapters on the care of the hair : how to have luxuriant growth ; harmless methods of making the Imlr pre serve Its natural beauty and color , oven to advanced age. Also Instruction ) ) how to banish superfluous hair from the face , neck and arms without Injury to the sitln. This book will be mailed to any address uu request. FREE Trial Dottles of Wonderful Com plexion Tonlo free at parlors , or 25 cents ( cost of packing and mailing ) to those at a distance. Correspondence cordially solicited. Ad dress THE MISSES BiLU 78 Fifth AVC. , New York City. The Mla cn llcll'H Complexion Tonic , Completion Soup , Skin Food anil De- I pile are fo. ' mile \ > r nil BRAIDED CLOTH. was adopted ns a daughter of the house and ! given bcautlfuf clothes as well as lessons. i Later the viceroy received some political ( honor from the emperor of China , anil , bc- I Ing desirous to give him a bcaul'lful and worthy present in token of acknowledgment , ho followed the artless oriental custom and i sent Tuon to Pckln. The girl's feet hnd never been bound , of course , and she could \\ulk upon them , and her mind wat > < li vel- , oped beyond that of most Chinese women. The favorite fla\o of the emperor of China became the favorite wlfo , nnd when the empress consort died she became empress of China. On the Journey by river to Peklu , with servants sent with her by the vlrtfroy , she had given a ring to n young lad who saved a man from drowning In the river. She bad promised the ring to any ono who would save the drowning man. The youth to whom she gave the ring hnd n bright , intelligent face ; ho wns a sailor , In the coarse clothes ot the lower class. That was LI Hung Chang , During her son's minority Tuen was re gent , and now as empress dowager she again assumes command. The emperor Is about 24 years old ; the empress is 60. COAL AVOME.V OK ST. THOMAS. They Do the AVork of Currying Conl to the Ship * . When cable communication between the United States and Cuba was cut off as a result of the nctlvo operations of our army nnd navy against the Spanish colonies In the Caribbean sea , tbo telegraph stations among the neighboring Islands took on an linportanco which they had not hitherto en joyed. The principal places which soon became - came familiar to us as news centers , relates Harper's Bazar , were Kingston , Jamaica , Capo Haytlcn , Haytl and St. Thomas In the Danish West Indies. St. Thomas , having a good landlocked harbor , also became promi nent as a coaling station for press boats and dispatch vessels , and as the head quarters of some twenty-Jive newspaper cor respondents , who mode it their base for gathering and disseminating the news of the progress of the war. The town of St. Thomas , sometimes called Charlotte Amnlle , IB ono of those delightful spots built on a hillside , surrounded by tropic vegetation , facing the sea , and blessed with a climate that varies llttlo the year round , the tem- pcraturo rarely falling below 70 degrees or rising above f'O ' degrees. Although a Danish possession , the language of commerce and society such society as there is Is Eng lish. The majority of the population , however - over , Is made up of negroes and mulattocs , who speak a dialect consisting of a mlxtur * of broken Dutch , Danish , English , French and Spanish. These negroes are the de scendants of the slaves who were Imported about 1GSO to cultivate the plantations of the Danish West India nnd Guinea company , nnd they are mostly fine specimens of th black race. The women , in particular , nr strong and well developed , nnd by reason of their strength and endurance have made themselves nn Important factor In the com mercial development of the Island. It li said that vessels may coal inoro cheaply at St. Thomas than at any port In the West Indies , and doubtless that Is true , for there Is seldom n day when Bomo steamer Is not coaling at the wharves , and the ships of nil the navies have made this Island their prin cipal coaling station for years. Perhaps thli quality of cheapness la due to the employ ment of women laborers , for they are almost exclusively used In transferring the coal from the sheds to the bunkers. They do tha work better nnd quicker than men , and are always cheerful at their labor. Hundred ! of women are employed In the work of supplying ono ship , and thus a continuous line of these sinewy carriers may bo seen striding up the gang plank , balancing their loaded baskets on their heads , while an other stream , unladen , pours over the ship's sldo on to the wharf. These St. Thomas coal carriers u o largo bafkets for their work. They carry theto an their heads , and so skillfully balanced ihat no accident ever occurs , oven on the steepest or slipperiest of gang planks. So expert are these women that they can thui carry a load of from 150 to 250 pounds ol coal. While at work they usually sing some peculiar and monotonous negro melody , and when the loading Is being done at night , by the light of flaring torches stuck In tn * ground near the coal heaps , these long , crooning processions of erect black women form a picture that is weird and Impres sive. sive.These women are Drained to the work of \ \ . i carrying loadu on their heads from baby hood almost. When they are not older than 5 years they are taught to acrry n email loads on their heada , and thus they * become familiar with the science of perfect s balance for It must bo a vclcnce. At 0 or 10 flic glrfs ore able to carry heavier loads in larger baskets , say from twenty to thirty pounds , and they become profi cient In the work by walking many miles all over the Island carrying fruit and mer chandise for ealo. Thus at 1C the htgio Blrl li tall and robust lithe , \gorou | , to rb of tonrtnn and hard flpuh. Bhe can