THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. t
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STILUS POll .UTtMV.
Tnllfir-Mnilc lrr M'n , Uniiuhl ) llnln
nnil rnaliloniililr Nocllli'M. .
NEW YORK , Sept. 8 It was only rea-
Fonablc to pxp < ct tltnt tlio opening of the
fall season would bring us many novelties
In tlio cut anil trimming of our gowns , but
there Is nothing very new , under this Sep
tember nun nt least. True It Is , this tailors
arc very active and look very wise , but
what Is It aH about ? When you como to In-
qulro the details alone prove of Interest.
Tor Instance , a great deal of velvet la go
ing to adorn tlio handsomest suits , exceed
ingly fanclfuF braiding will distinguish oth
ers , tucks after running In horizontal lines
have fallen Into the perpendicular , and
so many tallor-mado princess gown a will
bo seen.
Just suit yourself as to color Is tlio tax
law prevailing with regard to these stuff
dresses , though If It's blue jou mint rojal
blue la FOUR v , hat more to the forefront than
III ) fellow colors ; a peculiarity soft and be
coming tone called peacock green la bound
to enjoy a long season of activity , and a
curious cedar brown , appropriately named
nuturmi foliage , makes ur > In truly adinlra-
blo suits.
To go yet more deeply Into this question
of color wo must talk a while of seine of
the mldscaion stuff mills. These the tailors
arc making up In handsomely checked half
weight gorges nnd stiapplni * and barring
them with narrow folds of plain goods , held
down at the point of e-verj small strap with
a button. A brown cloth cou > rcd over with
quarter Inch wide stripes of green , crossing
each other at right angles , thus leaving
squares two to three Inrhes broad , will bo
checked Inside these squares In a peculiar
tone of rustv red. The brown , green and
red so commingled creates a dlspfay of color
that equals the Scotch plnld , of which this
material Is a direct off-shoot.
This style of goods IB much the mode for
porfcitly simple autumn walking skirts ,
nnd with such a checkerboard petticoat a
Ftnart little coat , of solid blown or green
cloth , Is adopted ; Its re\cre faced with
checked silk and a checked silk skirt front
peeping out below eon the lappcls
Hraldlng tit an ornamentation for cloth
milts was never In more vigorous use than
nl present There are pretty shot green and
brown and blue and yellow wool braids.
flat satin-faced braids , silk nnd mohair
braids , black wool and linen braids and
braids that are as rough as the surface of
Brussels carpet and ns smooth ns peau do
role In place of braid proper , as wo know
It , cords of various sizes are largely ap
plied , In floriated patterns , to smooth cloth
surfaces , and most especially on princess
dreeses Is the decoration by braiding re
quired. About the hips It Is massed to run
down the front with a tabller effect , spread
upon Dolnted vests nud covers , with a fine
scroll work , nearly the entire sleeve. Most
Interesting , In the new styles of braid
weaves , Is that which , woven either wide
or narrow , possesses a surface sn rough that
It looks at a llttlo distance , llko some
strange sort of fur. Another exceedingly
modish make IB called hussar braid.
ItcniMiitliiK l-n Yrur'M Clothe * .
But because of all these slight deviations
from the styles of last year , lot no woman
lay the Haltering unction to her soul that
there will bo any great opportunllles lo
economize on Hie fall sowing. A last
j car's skirt , for example , can't pass mus
ter hero , and now that the Spanish lloutice
effect has given place to the Princess and
Ixmls XV. forms , and small as the
autumn hats are , they require great
brilliancy of velvet , feathers and Jeweled
ornament In their make up. It used to
CLOTH AND CHECKED VELVET TOILE1
bo n pet plan with women to wear on
their old black skirts with bright thcale
waists , but now the authorities say thr
Biich a scheme Is very demodo unless 111
skirt Is a black and white striped silk ,
skirt of black lace , or a waiercd silk I
dove grey. Out of the evening bodices nun
como all the rucked and gathered chlffo
sleeves of last winter , to bo replaced I
transparent ones , that are tucked close an
line , clthor up and down or round on
round the arm. Very soon also the necl
of all the gowns will bo ruthlessly torn 01
to maKe place for the now buttoned co
lars and the high , straight satin nee
stalls , about which a llttlo lace scarf w 1m
and Knots In front.
As to the evening dicsses , renovation cai
not euro their hopeless malady of ui
fashlouablcnoBS. What the winter of IS !
aaw tit to cotmtonanco and applaud Is o
abomination In our own ejes now , for lo
necked bodices are cut cut alfogethi
differently , and the skirt that takes yoi
cyo when It enters the ball room lUpla ;
an adjustment of lace and Jeweled trln
ruing about the hips that Is almost a ful
developed milkmaid's pannier.
Unrly Millinery ] ) IM iMopiiirnU.
Now wo are called to render Judsraei
upon the first flock of hats In the marke
They are wonders to the eye , long soothi
by the gracious slope of wide straw eves :
bccomlncly shading e > ra and brow , tt
sweol shepherdess bacU and the bolt fall <
plumes. It will take some time for us
uccrpt the new order of things of nil tl
wide brims , turning up straight from tl
face , silt down thn middle and fastened \
a big glittering brooch. From either sl <
these haugltty crest wings Hare out , at
the back of the hat Is very inslgntflrn
Indeed. According to the milliners the re ;
of > our chapeau docs not count. The facai
is the thing , and the only comfort to 1
found In thU revolution Is the fact th
block and white Is the smartest combination
the head can show
Another approved and excessively tr > lng
arrangement In hat colors far the autumn
Is dove gray and turquolso blue. Only the
\ery bravo or very fair can venture to
adopt It.
Cnillulit Tolli-tx.
A word Just here as to the prettv gauzy
goods that the dry goods dealers arc Just
about spreading on their counters. They
call them robes for dancing and dinners , and
they arc lovely , hejond the reach of admir
ing adjectives. Also , they como In Just
two pieces , a shaped-out seamless piece for
I the skirt , nnd n smaller breadth for the
waist. Their weaves first demand attention ,
for they ate woven to he as opalescent as a
drop of rain through which the sun In shinIng -
Ing , or they are watered HKo moire , or open
I of mesh ns a basket.
One particularly taking pattern Is a black
silk muslin , that In the folds gives off high
' white lights , as satin does ATI over this
, falls a shower of burnlngly scarlet poppy
petals. The petals , of course , are , by some
BRAIDED PRINCESS GOWN .
rtlstlc device , dyed In the muslin , though
ust as many of the cauzes have their
ecoratlons brought out In a velvet relief
i their surfaces , and Eomo beauties show
itln stripes , line as a hair , woven athwart
10 fall of the goods.
Quito regal are the fashion properties
ow on exhibition for the dowagers. Their
obrs of state arc to be satin this winter ,
hlafly black fcatln , but gloriously em-
ossed In white velvet. It Is very rarely
bat a student of the mode can put out her
and unerringly on a novelty , but this ar-
angtment of black and whlto Is something
no does not sec ovcry other day. It ID
Imost Imperial In effect and shows off
owels to the very greatest advantage. It
osts enough per jard to set the purses
f the economical to shutting llko misers'
money traos , nnd only the woman who Is
a matron should attempt to wear tt. As was
mentioned above. It demands Jewels nnd
gray hair to sot It off properly , and younger
voraen can only steal bits of It for vestlcts ,
ollnrs , etc. , on their line gowns.
Another acquisition by the married
women Is the right to conceal the ravages
of time by wearing their dog collar neck-
aces about a throat band of velvet , that
ms high extension pieces running in points
out under the chin and ears nnd high at
ho hack. At some of the Jewelers In New
t'ork they show thcso collars of velvet and
satin studded with gems , or of an evening
you can see a pretty woman , turned of 45 ,
wearing a bit of precious old whlto lace
Irawn rather close about her neck nnd
caught with a flno Jewel under one ear.
llOtl-l IVlllNtH.
Every day shows growth In the fanciful
waist that Is called a theater or hotel
walet. Nowadays so many women live In
lotcls during the winter or go frequently
io the excellent hotel restaurants with
their husbands that without n rather com
plete set of fancy waists the wardrobe lo
sadly lacking. Last winter very much
tucked Bilk and satin shirt waists appeared
( recly at all these semi-functions , but they
have been swept out of existence anil
greater formality and elaboration Is sanc
tioned. A few very pretty waists are made
flat about the neck , but the majority rise
sternly tight nnd close nt the throat ,
though elbow sleeves are considered In ex
tremely flno taste. Most attractive speci
mens nro made wholly of whlto or blact
lace , and sometimes the seams down the
shoulders and outside of the sleeves are
outlined In small bright Imitation stones.
Lace waists , and those or chiffon am !
plain silk , boast Invariably pretty bow
knots of velvet or of lace , with centers ol
Jewels , fastened at some conspicuous polnl
on the bust or shoulder. Such bow knots
as thcso are sold , among the smart odds
and ends of dress , In all the shops , and an
made up In a variety of colors and ma
terials. They are meant for pinning or
wherever on skirt , waist , or hair a touch o
color Is needed. Velvet ones are twlstei
to rescmblo the sword Knots soMlers usei
to wear , while others look llko vvcddlni
favors , or are simply bows and falling end !
of lace , clasped by n Jewel. With man ;
women such bows take the place most acceptably <
coptably of Jewels and aid greatly In help
Ing a much worn gown to escape the chargi
of dullness or monotony.
Pretty autumn hosiery Is startllngly brll
llant , whether the material Is silk lisle o
wool. New golf stockings nro made o
camel's hair yarn , showing In sharp con
trast the three. highest tones of green , ret
and brown , and the Hue lisle , for dally use
Is Haunted before us in black shot will
scarlet. There Is a new way of nmrklni
stockings In lines and a very bevvlldcrlni
effect Is given by a sober dark brue sill
hose having a dozen or more thread-Ilk
lines of jcllow turning around the leg Ilk
the twist of a corkscrew. She who has i
thick ankle and a thin calf will take klndl
to the brue and black Blockings , strlpc <
finely in white , the pin line converg
Ing from the rength of les very clos
together at the ankle. By thl
maneuver the e > e Is decelvec
to ! and great comfort given the wearer. B
10 yet another device rows of white dots beglr
io the slzo of a quarter of a dollar , up near th
> y 'ine-e , growing to the dimensions of a pin'
le head at the anUe. On experiment It ha
id been found that a large foot and a thlc
nt i ankle lose , to the most critical gaze , one
ir half their clumsiness when swathed In
le figured slocking , nnd as but a minority c
He women enjoy faultless extremities , th'e plal
lit dark hose are at a dlicount momentarllj
for thcso dazzling , deceiving foot masques
carry the trade before them.
IlliiNlriillonw of I'nililoni.
Krom three points of view the theater or
hotel waist can be studied this week , for
the sketch gives n group of the mosl ad
vanced of the new st > les In composing th se
admirable little bodies Though so showy ,
they are simple enough , for one Is mad ? of
accordion-pleated chiffon with a eifltnna
Jacket , of thick gray Russian lace , drawn
over It. By a series of bright scarlet satin
bows the jacket Is fastened at the side
Of chiffon the high collar Is made and lied
In iho rear In n bow so large and airy lhat
It forms a sort of delicate background for
the face. A fellow Illustration shows tur
quolso chiffon , over which Ills an oddly-
shaped waist or sapphire blue velvet , edged
with an applique of deep cream lace. A
velvet collar button to one side with Rhinestone -
stone balls , and the strip of velvet that
follows the scam of the slcevo Is caught
at the wrist In a buckle of the same bright
stones.
Two species of figured Bilk are emplojed
In the third and last bodice The \est Is
really rose-colercd satin , with a whlto lace
pattern laid on belo\v the joke of rucked
chlflon , nnd on the sleeves of satin , similar
lace Ircatmcnt Is shown. The real body of
the waist Is of green taffeta , flsuied In rows
of rosebuds , with ruches of lace outlining
the edges of the vest.
For mornlug wear and shopping In rojal
blue face cloth the llrst of the set of tailor
suits Is made up. BlacK leather cloth , as
the tailors call It , lu broad and nario > v
bands , appears on the skirt und coat All
the narrow hands art fastened down by
polished silver buttons and the top of the
coat opens over a collar and vest of the
thick , felt-llko goods. What A true new
princess gown , when It Is biaided , ought to
look like , Is shown by tne second costume
In Russia leather red Venetian cloth. The
braiding Is done in black and the two diamond
mend shaped openings on the bust display
an under vest of embroidered white liberty
satin. Attention Is called to the braided
sleeves and the high braided collar , than
which there Is nothing newer.
A tailor dress that is good enough to wear
anywhere Is the subject of the third sketch.
This Is Ihe finest green French melton made
up with checked brown and green velvet
and ornaments of steel. Rucked velvet
edges the skirt and runs up the hip , nnd
wheio the skirt Hares open nt the side Is
seen a panel of velvet In green and brown.
A green felt hat , showing a hugo brown
bird on the bilm , Its body pierced by a
steel arrow , compleles Iho smart toilet.
MARY DEAN.
It KI.Miit < ; AHTK.VH.
A I'Valure of Sunday Morning Service
In .NIMV IZiiKlnni ] .
Through the Connecticut valley , espe
cially In the larger towns , a custom of serI -
I mou-hour kindergartens Is being estab
lished , which proves a delight to pastors ,
| mothers , children , and church-goers In
| general. Whether the Now England mother ,
bom of a church-going ancestry , Is re
sponsible for this new featuie In homo mis
sionary work , or whether the discussion nt
some pastors' convention of the pros nnd
cons of urging mothers with children to
attend service , brought out this adaptation
of the Kindergarten from theory to prac
tice , no ono seems to know. Whoever Is re
sponsible the blessing Is widespread. The
most entertaining children's sermon , never
BO simply told , pales Into Insignificance
before Iho kaleidoscopic acllon of the kin
dergarten , \vhero the small boy Is not hurt
by trylnc to "sit still"or the llttlo girt
baby told she ' 'must not talk out loud , or
whisper. "
Indeed so recognized a feature of church
llfo has the babies' play hour become that
1 before singing the hymn preceding the ser
mon , the pastor Invariably announces : "All
children In the audience arc most cordially
, Invited to adjourn to the Sunday school
rooms , where Mrs. Smith and Miss Annlo
Brown will conduct the sermon-hour kin
dergarten. "
With the tinging of the hymn , Mrs. Smith
nnd her assistant take up the collection of
these wee bits of the Kingdom of heaven ,
with on occasional mother perhaps leading
a shy newcomer who has not the courage
of his convictions. And the baby ChrlRtlans
flock down the aisles like BO many happy
llttlo butterflies , en route for a garden of
roses. They trudge along past the deacons
with a pleased grin , or sometimes a giggle
of anticipated delight. And even the fondest
parent glvc over her prim little heart's
delight or chubby , restless baby boy with a
sigh of content and with n mind now free
to take In the words of comfort or advice.
Occasionally a door opens somewhere and
"Precious Jewels , precious Jewels , Ills loved
and Ills own , " floats to the listeners of Iho
sermon lIKe n veritable nngel chorus , or
during the benediction Ihe merry chatter
of the lltlle ones Is waflcd from Iho vestry.
As for the children Ihe sermon llrno has
passed lee quickly Beside the singing of
Infant class songs , there have > been sons
game games with a subtle religious les
son In the words or action.
One of the prettiest little adaptallons of
the regular kindergarten Is the song game
of the chickadees. The children form a
circle with joined hands Mrs Smith tells
Baby North he can be papa-bird He takes
his place In the center of the ring , nnd In
turn chooses his llttlo mate. Together they
choose nlternalcly seven or more of the
lllllo folk to make Ihelr nest. These seven
Join hands , making a smaller circle within
the first nnd largo one , which la Kept intact
by dint of much slrctchlug of the llttlo
arms , which the babies take to most kindly.
When the nest Is complete , the choosing
continues until a ( lock of , say five , birdllngs
Is gathered Then Miss Brown plays softly
Ihe simple Illtle melody , nnd the children
sing verso after verse In high glee , while the
chickadees cuddle In their nest. The song
words , which the little ones soon memorlrc ,
tell of the goodness and love of our heavenly
rather , who cares for even the smallest
bird. At certain verses the papa bird files
out to find food for his small family , and
by and by , when the chickadee babies are
grown , the mamma bird lakes Ihem out to
try their wings Whenever the birds leave
the nest they hop about lightly , waving their
| arms wing fashion. Meanwhile the outer
- circle , which forms the limit of the world
to the chickadees , has not been kept quiet ,
but has marched round slowly , to the piano
accompaniment , sometimes In the original
poslllon facing Ihe nest , or prison style ,
with hands on the shoulders of the baby In
, front.
! And with a variety of the kindergarten
games In Sunday dress the little ones are
made busy and happy during the sermon
hour.
amv n.rii rou wosinjf.
Ilovr It Slnrti'il nn l What It
IMnn * < o Do.
The Progressive Women of America Is the
name of a new club and the founder Is Mrs.
Efile W Mcrrlman of Minneapolis.
This club Is organized on different , perhaps
more practical , lines than anything yet at
tempted In women's clubs.
It Is not a local affair , but Is Intended to
extend over a continent and to embrace all
'
of people. Growth Is always more
rapid where many minds come In contact ,
and the founder believes that the Progres
sive Women of America will have greater
power and moro Interest than n local club.
To be progressive wo must hold communi
cation with many people of many Ideas , Is
the principal plank In the club'B platform.
Although It3 first birthday was hut a few
weeks ago , six circles have already been
fanned , and September 8 fixed as the date
of 'the ' first meeting.
Seven or more women may form a circle
' by Heading to the founder nnd director of
the Progressive Women of America a written -
| ten request for u charter of membership.
1 On being assigned n number circles nro
| designated by numbers , from one upward ,
according to priority of their formation
the circle adopts u constitution nnd by-laws
I
' lu harmony with the original one nnd elects
a president , vice president * , secretary and
treasurer.
I '
The object of the club Is "tho discussion
) of the topics of the day , nnd questions of
| Interest to women , nnd the bringing of lu
members Into communication for nciiualnt-
I nnce nnd mutual helpfulness "
Mrs. Mcrrlman , as the director for the first
year , outlines and announces the topics for
the consideration of the circles , nnd r-uch
circle Is expected to prepare and forward to
the director through Its secretary a brief
statement of 'the conclusions orrlve'd nt by
the majority on the topic assigned by
the director Once a mouth each circle IB
expected ! to write a friendly letter to at
, least one other circle , and In this way Keep
In louch with the organization throughout
the country.
An Important feature of the Progressive
Women of America , and Indeed one of i's
principal reasons for being , Is that club llfo
may bo biought to the woman who Is so
Isolated living on a farm or ranch , for e\-
I. .
MRS. EFFIE W. MERRIMAN
ample ns to be deprived of all advantages
of clubs or olher soc nl orgnnlzallons For
her benefit special provision Is made for
| non-rcbldent membership
' . Mrs. Merrlmau has wiltten several books
! none , however , Is the story with a pur
pose. In the preface to one of her stories -
I "A Queer Dilemma" she fnvs : "You me
not tthked to believe a word of the book ,
1 but the author hopes lhat , as she had lots
of fun writing it , a lei of people may have
as much fun reading It. "
I'AShl.Mi 01' Tllli TOMI10Y.
( ilrld Ilrnltlilrr nnil Itaiiplrr llccnusc
of Outdoor Ifc | ,
Tomboy has become an antiquarian's
word. Women who were little girls twenty
1 years ago , says Harper's Ba/ar , Know how
potent of reproach It used to he when It
was btlll In vogue In the homes of the
land ,
"If jou are not a woman when you nro
15 you uovcr will be , " many mothers said ,
In varjlng language , to their daUghteis who
were moro eager for romping than for mak
ing tatting or engaging their hearts In
crochet. The descriptions of the rearing of
Harriet Hosmer In an nctlvo outdoor glil-
hood were looked upon with some compla
cency , mingled wilh curiosity , because she
had a talent for marble and chisel , and be
cause her health was not robust , and open-
air exercise was known to bo good for high-
strung girls of exceptional endowments.
But others who showed a lively liking for
playing with their brothers , nnd following
them and other girls' brothers afield or Into
tree tops or row boats , bore perennially the
tomboy stigma. There was never a girl1 of
the old unacknowledged regiment of the ad
vance guard of athleticism who would have
given up ono of the joys wherefore she
made battle against the conservatism of her
time for sake of being rid of that tllle. To
be sure , thousands of "llttlo women" felt n
deep invvnrd protest ngalnst the Ignominy
Implied In the appellation , but they did not
HOTEL WAISTS.
ONE
F
TRIAL BOTTLE
THIS OITER ALMOST SURPASSES BELIEF.
An External Ionic Applied to the Skin
Beautifies It As by Magic.
co very OF
A WOMAN WAS THU INVENTOR.
J
$ $8& < & \
, '
/ W&'A
ii ; fc * ? * j < ? i
, ' XVW {
- 'rfcf ' -
. ssi
Thousands have Irlcd from time Immem
orial to discover some efllcaclotiB remedy
for wilnklcB and other Imperfections of
the complexion , but none bad } tt suc
ceeded until the Misses Bull , the now fam
ous Complexion Specialists , of 73 Fifth
avenue , New 'ioik City , offered the pub
lic thi-lr wonderful Complexion Tonic.
The rea.-.on so many failed lo make this
dlstovoiy before Is plain , because they have
not followed the right pilnclple. Balms ,
Creams , Lotions , etc , never have n tonic
effect upon the skin , hence the failures.
The Mlsbca Bell's Complexion Tonic has
a most exhilarating effect upon the cuticle ,
absorbing and cairylug off nil Impurities
which tbe blood by Its natural action Is
constantly forcing to the BUI face of the
skin. It Is to the skin what a vitalizing
tonic Is to the blood and neivcs , a kind of
neiw life that Immediately exhilarates nnd
strcnglhcns wherever applied. Its tonic
effect Is felt almost Immediately , and It
speedily banishes forever from the skin ,
freckles , pimples , blacl.hfads. moth patches ,
wrinkles , Iher spots , roughness , olllness ,
orui tlona nnd dlscoloratlons of any kind.
In older that all may bo benefited by
Ihclr Greal Discovery , the Mlssca Bell will ,
during the present mouth , give to nil call-
I ers at their parlors ono trial botllo of their
I Complexion Tonic absolutely free ; and la
order that thosu who cannot call or who
live away from New York may bo bene
fited , they will send ono bottle to any ad
dress , all charges prepaid , on the receipt of
25 cents ( stamps or silver ) to cover cost of
packing nnd delivering The prlco of this
wonderful tonic la $100 per bottle , and
this liberal offer should bo embraced by all.
The Misses Bell have Just publUhed
their new book , "Secrets of Beauty"
This valuable work Is frco to all desiring
It. The book treats exhaustively of tha
Importance- a good complexion , trlli
how a woman may acquire beauty nnd
keep It. Special chapters on the earo of
the hair- how to have luxuriant growth
hnrmlebs methods of making the hair pro.
servo Its natural beauty and color , oven to
advanced age. Also Instructions how to
banish superfluous hair fioni the face ,
neck nnd arms without injuiy to Iho sKlu ,
This book will bo mailed lo any address oa
request.
FREE Trial BolllcB of Wonderful Cor
ploxlon Tonic frco nt parlors , or 25 cr
( cost of packing and mailing ) to those
distance.
Correspondence cordially solicited ,
dress
THE MldSiS B L'j , 78 Fifth Ave..Ni\v York City.
The Mlaacii Uoll'n Complexion Tonic , Complexion Soup , bUIn 1'ood an I
l > llo nio for mile lir nil
Know how to say that they were only fol
lowing the need of nature girl nature as
"ell as bov nature In finding out person
ally the pleasures of galloping on barebick
horses or diving into woodland "swlmmln1
holes" or resting over n game of "mum-
bi'oty pep , " when some bo > 's Jack knife
twirled from eager fingers to make those
soft , delightful , unforgettable thuds of suc
cess into the good green ground.
The > oung girls of today have the free
dom of tlit'Ir muscles unquestioned , and
enter by right Into an Inheritance of bicy
cles nnd golf clubs , boatB and bathing
Biilts , saddles that are not sldo saddles ,
basket balls and b.iFo balls , too , that their
elder sisters nequlrcd by n sort of slow en
croachment of the Zeitgeist.
The spirit of the llmo is embodied In the
girl1 who IB to be Iho woman ruling the
destiny of man in the first quarter of the
coming ccutury. She will step over Us
threshold Into her Kingdom with the sure
footed grace gained In climbing mountain
heights. She will accept Its possibilities
and responsibilities with less strenuousness -
ness than nineteenth century women have
alwajs shown , because action Is her birth
right , not her conviction , and health Is to
her a necessity like a religion.
The passing of Iho tomboy Is complete.
The girl of today at her American best Is a
hearty , healthy , happy , graceful child. She
la not expected to be a young woman , al
though the is trained toward the serenities
of that gracious estate. She Is a part of
the ouward-movlng life of her times , as she
seems to bo a p.iit of her wheel when Hying
along city avenues or through woodland
roads. She cannot remember when she
learned to ride , her babyhood's velocipede
having superseded the baby Jumper wherein
her elder sister was wont to go through
violent Infantile exertions without arriv
ing anywhere.
The progress of the modern young glrl-
on-wheels has nothing self-conscious In It.
She moves Joyouslj , grncefulfy , fair to see ,
along the pathway "bln/ed" for her through
the Jungles of conservatism by the pioneer
tomboy of the past. There were always
tomboys In nil generations , except that
which Is now femininely rising. They were
not confined to the time when n girl who
rode n sixty-pound tricycle to a college door
was sure to be asked If fiho considered her
mode * of locomotion ladylike.
Once In n while you may nifet women of
00 or TO or 90 , gracious and Blfver-halrcd ,
joung-heartcd nnd with n lively Inteiest In
the thoughts anl pursuits of all girl kind ,
who will tell jou In swecl voices lhat they
were called "great tomboys" when they
were llttlo girls And If they r.ecount to
you their maddest , merriest pranks , their
wildcat and most daring advenlures , you
will find that these were commonpraco be
side Ihelr granddaughter's thlrty-mllo bicy
cle rldo of yesterday , cup-w Inning yacht
race of the day boforc , far heralded golf
championship of last week or this morn
ing's BVlin of a mlle seaward out toward
Spain
It must bo owned , too , that the girl of
the period far surpasses her predecessor In
strength and staying power. All this out
door llfo means vigor , grace nnd buoyancy.
It Is n flno thing to watch a girl athlcle.
She Is borItching.
uhr.i-t'i.Mss or wosin.v.s ciams.
roiiillllonn I niJcr IVIiloli Tln-r Are
KnHllcil to roinnifiiilntlon.
"That many of the women's clubs In
America are doing valuable work In rann'-
directions admits of no doubt , " writes Kd-
ward Bok In the September Ladles' Homo
Journal. "And so long as a vroman's club
keeps within Its upbore that of the social ,
mental nnd educational Improvement of the
sex and the children and does not extend
nnd take up political questions and go Into
a maelstrom of purely municipal mailers ,
Ihe conduct of which Is not given women to
rightly understand nnd In which they can done
no good , but , on the contrary , effect much
harm , It serves a purpose high and mighty.
There Is no question at all of the benefit
which a woman derives from getting out of
the atmosphere of the routine of domestic
machinery , once u week or once a fortnight ,
according as she IB able to spare the noecs-
sary time , and coming Into the different
surroundings of a number of other women
at the meeting of a sensible and well con
ducted literary , tocial or educational club.
Women's clubs , like the clubs for men , are
useful Institutions bo long as tluy are
considered as a means toward an end , anl
that end be social or mental Improvement
But when they are taken in the light of an
end In tberneelvea , then they become in
evil which should bo corrected.y
woman to make her club Iho nil *
clement In her llfo Is wrong. Buty
'
well-dliccted menus tow.ird her o
opment , her own exhilaration , to
panlonshlp of the sc\os and not Ihe
separation , the woman's club Is cable
able- . "
FrlllN oT niNliloii.
Among the now fashionable gun me'
oltles IB a , combination purse and
safe.
safe.Tho
The newest shade of red Is begonia. It Is
rich and deep and not bo harsh ns cherry
red or cardinal.
Ovorsklrts and drnporles nro becoming gen-
em ! on Iho light , fluffy tjpo of evening
gown , nnd they will no doubt be unlvrrnnlly
adopted for evening wear before winter
sets In.
The most fashionable patrlollc breast plu
TOR EARLY AUTUMN
consists of an Ameilcan ling with nn < > acl
perched on the staff The bird IB covered
with billllantB nnd has emerald eyes
English whipcord suitings In Russian , stem
nnd laurel green , dark Cuban red , array ,
navy nnd RussKin blue , gray , brown and
bla-k. will bo highly favored for fall and
winter tailor costumes.
I
Salambo Is the new nhado of raspberry
red , much like old row lints , thai combines
handsomely wilh Russian green , cerlain
shades of blue- , und also with Ihe gray and
belgo dyes.
A new design for u wutch Htrongly appeals
! to caid pluyiTS. Ono o'clock IB represented
' by the aeo of clubs , while 10 o'clock IB the
ten of the name eolor. Eleven and 12 are
I the knave und queen of cluba.
I A novel linger ring Is made to send forth
a spraj of ( .tent whenever Iho wearer
1 pleasoa , or , lo speak moro accuralely , when
Bho is wise enough lo kee-p Iho rrceptaclu
well filled. Other rings are set with a tiny
watch.
The most fashionable handkcrchlofa of the
moment are bordered with narrow colored
Valenciennes late. They may bo fashion
able , but the woman of really refined tnslo
avoids evcrythlnK bill pure vvhilo in her
I linen from her handkerchief lo her night
dress.
Chains cif ull soils uud tlzcs arc Iho order
of Iho ay. The moro small Jingling
oinamenth lhal can bo crowded on the
lorgneto ch. In the morn fashionable It be
conies. I'arlb tends us a brand new chuln ,
showing a port 01 Grecian border formed In
Btcel arid black enamel united. The whole
thing Is fully l.olf an Inch In width
Ucfurdlni ! tbo matter of assisting , gratis ,
Iho street-cleaning departments of our
cities , It rcsls entirely with iho women
liaders who eontrul , in a degree at least ,
the fashions In tlila free counlry of ours ,
whclher wo Blmll again eheoso this most
, disgusting style of eul-of-door attire It Is
true that to bo exactly In the latest I'arlBlan
stjlo Ihcro inuet bo btreet skirts longer
than have been worn.
| Some of thn handsome weaves In light-
I weight ladles' cloth und Vicuna are In
prim IBS stjlu , the Bklrt portion very bhoath-
llko and clinging about iho top on the front
and Bides until hnjf way down , then burst
ing Into exuberant waves und folds. The
, mntrtlal on the waist U drawn very
srb'o'hly over a heavily boned silk lining
. Bid | more than liulf are tut low on tbo
I j = h jlJcrs , with gulmpea above of norao rich
} conirattlns material. ?