Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, September 04, 1898, Part II, Page 14, Image 14

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    Til 13 OMAHA DAILY UEE : PUXDAY , SEl'TMM.Uttl ? , 1808.
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* _ fX& Sv. & & SflTs ) ( | rv5 > S\1 s05 fjR ? "
" " ! IWJ8WSP | ) ?
( 'mill mill CMIICM fur t'itr\y \ Wlnlrr ,
( Mill IMIlCP I'rlllM llf I'llnllllllli
NI3W YOIIK , Hept. Z.Wit nro already bo-
in think rrlouly of the where
withal WP uliall bo protected niuln ; l the
whlto tfctli at thi ) llmt autiimmil
frost As lung ngo nn April wo HUDK ; i
over , ri'inll"d the cnod workit mid
vlitnos of and tenderly hurled Iho cape , and
lo n lid brliold' It In Kwlnglm ; jllNt M
jnuntlly nn you ii\i \ > ani from the fthouldnra
of women v/hotiu tanto Is abovn suspicion.
There In no getting about thi ) fact that
women like Iho rnpn and have of tholr own
will rcmiscltatiMl It , bin n morn bungling ,
ilrnlrun eort nt a garment wan never * PCI ) ,
nnli'Hx rino admit the Btralght Jacket.
If you nro going nn a Heptcmhor vacation
lo the mountalim to BCO the leaven turn ,
IIT you hnvn hern asked to conrh through
fiotiii ! partlnulnrly nlno bit uf country , you
can't pretend lo bo dcrontly equipped urilcai
ynu On rnrry n cnpo. Dut not yuur corn-
fortnhle old iolf rupo The nrnart thing tn
ilo In to buy a big Imported Hrotcli blankrt ,
fringe d nt linth pniln and end Kldo woven
In bright pi u M HtreakB. You tnku thin tn
your Uillor and hnvo him cut It up ami HOW
It ilown Into n wrap Hint hugn your dhould-
ern and ptrm your uritin tight to your ftldot.
It muni huvo a tall , Hi In grlngril collnr , and
rcftclilni ; thu waist line. How abnilt thu hlpa
In nn exeRHlvnly iifly ( milled tall , over
hung with fringe. Illi ; Bteel or pnarl but
tons mid frliiKinl rovcrn stolidly ornament
Iho front , and tberi < you have a travesty on
the gulf enpo of rioblo memory , lly rnrik-
Ing thu bnily of tint wrap with the plain
nlile of thu blanket turned out , and cuttlni ;
hip nillli1 , collar nml revern from the plaid
nliln , tin Innult In rotor In added to thin In
jury In cut ; theiefore , If the ratio In mil
delid lo unefiiliiPKH , It ninety In dead to all
rermo of beauty ,
Kor I'niNty 1)11.1 N.
A fur morn npllmlnUc lone can bo taken
nboiil the mt'lton and heaver cloth capcn ,
elaborately ntltched and HlrnppiMl , that are
Hlrlvlng for the gruro of leeognltlon along-
Hldn thi ) bold , luid blanket wrapt ) . Them- ,
Ilkii the new nklrlH , moiit to do away
with all fnlm-HH. nnd they lak the iilioulilern
without a wi Inkle. Juiit IIB the good Hlclrlrt
enilimu n wenrer'n hlpo. In bonutlfiil | ad-
linil nliiulim nf led. carbon brown and bin-
eult color , rnout of these capex tome , and
Hiey tineep down from ten lo twenly-ilv
Ini'hiK Imlow the wnlMl line. They show a
eoiiHplfMKiiiK neam through Iho center of the
lmi ; ! ( , iinother on either iihoiilder , for by
MrapB nml puckered Btltchlngii thcno junc
tion linen are turned Into broad ornamenta
tion. A collar , fairly gollilo In propor-
llonn , tiirim up about lhi > neck , anil down
the fronlH run two iloilblu box-pleated
rin-huH of Hllk , main or velvet. Any of
Ilieno tin rii niatnrlalB In employe for HID
llnliiK , wllhln which n mont gratifying
nrray of poi'ketn In plai'ed by thu cuiiBlileiuta
Later iiliiiig In the iiciiHon capeH Hitch an
Ihuio will bu put forth with lining * of cat ,
nqulrrel. coon and rabbit nkln ; for , now
Unit Ilin duly on furB IK HO high , Uulh
W'rapH , llneil w'llh Hklnn prociiriMl In DIG
iitaloM , will bo the rcfugn of thn economlful.
Tallin H and furrleiH are going ( o nml > thn
xxperlrmiiL of lining eoatu with ( hcnu light
nnd Inexponnlvo Hklnu , and In Ihn into of
them followH nn eccentric ParlH fnnhlon.
Ovur In that city of whlnm they bavu loariu'd
to dyn rhenp furs thu numt lovely HIHICM | !
of led , giiieii , blui' , lilac , imrpln ynd yel
low. which diHlilim proiulet'S ' lo eu > ale uu
iiulumn Hunsallon.
Over In PnilB alno the tain bearers \v\\ \ \
IIB they niu milking ( In * innnt adorabln ihort
\el\et coals and eiieiuming them In Jewel
hemli. That Is. | K > IIIH | made to rcm-mblu
Jewels. ( ombliilng Hie niloiB of HICBO In
Indliin. ruriilim and lloral patleniB on vel-
vrl. Kinking Hio HiiarklliiK I'lln ' of Kla K
deep In the pile and bringing out lie ) high
llghln with Hlcel ami gold bemln , they get i >
temilt Hint IK nothliiK Blunt of magnlllcent.
\ \ liilrr Ciiiita.
Nnl ix iiul can yet bn ( ruthfully Biild about
fur wrapH , but clolli coatH ate being taken
very iierloiiHly , and Ihn law roiiooinlng their
nhiipn ami ormenlullon run bo nafely pio-
elalmed. All the familiar WHIVCH of cloth ,
from lln > doughty heaver to tinlln-rarei ! mel
ton. that IB an mift IIM a pimch'H nkln and
well nigh IIB fragile , mo on the market and
the i-olorii Bhow not oven it Hlrango Blind-
Tliwut ate long , Inoio eoatB and short
tight cirnlH , but mighty fmv | iPtt | < i | In wm ,
pundnnl fronln. Uvldiuilly wo huvu gel over
thut epidemic , in UK phicn wo have mlopie.l .
the most conspicuous nnor. or BorleH of
rovi'i-B. ( ) \rr Iho bunt of a black brown or
gray cloth eoat two wlilo
Irnt-xlinpctl | ilect'H
turn , faced with tmtln ( ) f a Rly , ( onPi lVr. ) ,
npreiul wllh niched i-hlnon , or glowing with
Orlnnlnl loveliilloim In beadwork onelot. .
Koine fiialB turn Imi-k a HOI leu of square do-
tHi-hi'il rovom , wide iindur the chin , with u
touplo of Binnllei nmn lii'lou The rc\itr
may or may not \teml fiom aOH | , and
women will enjoy tIO | Blmil | multlplUM
'rnir.D HOI Muiii > itts.
.Ml Hun DIIUII , Wcnry nml AVonU ,
. .MorlllnuIHIII nml Mulil.
If one were to ask all the ntirvouH , fri'ttod ,
JndPd , fagged-out women , who work day
ftorduj. hardly able to keep on their feet
If n pel him weio to RBK them what their
trouble .was , ono
would say dyvpcp-
nlu. another nerv
ous prostration ,
another. female
weakness , and BO
on The fnct U ,
bowmor , that they
lu'iuly all
tbo Mime
and that dleraso U
rhronlo catarrh.
Ttioumnila of people hmo chronlo catarrh
nnd do not Know It. They ri'iilljo thill they
are Hick , but they do iut huspect that
their dlnraoo la chioutc o.itarrli. if they
ha\o catarrh of the utonuirh. thuy call It
l > * | ui ln : If they Imto general catarrlut
lelilllty , they call It nervous prostration ; If
they h vo cntnrh of the liver or KUUu < ) n ,
they tny they are bilious or have kidney
illfodto ; and It they have catarrh of the
pohlc ogiuK , they name It femalu wmk-
urr . The truth t nil HIPJO organs nro nb-
Joct to catarrh , ami the Innd U full of tollIng -
Ing women , half limillda , who have rhroulc
catarrh In tome * IOK or form of some of
there organs.
Mlfs Frances Fugel , Marcus and Ander
sen nvenuoc , St. LouU , Miv , writes of IV-
ru-na as follows : "I wl a ttxtt all who are
nftllcteJ wltb catarrha.1 troubles would hear
of jour great remivly. I cannot be too
grateful towards you for your kindness to
me "
Any woman who desires to learn all that
1s known lu regard to the iT.fflcultlea and
Dinettes peculiar her sex should tend to
Jr Hartman , Columbus , Ohio , for a IYc
ropy of his book cntltleJHealth Mid
Deauty. "
revern , an many an five , folding one over
thn other at either nlde.
An odd feature of the drenn coat , ns
dirferentliillrig from Iho severely wlmplo
Btrect Jaekol , In Its nit-eve. It fulls a little
on the uliotihler nnd In cut long over the
hand. Often enough Its collar IB a close
eriiihed band of satin , with a rear ruff of
nitrlch tlpn , and immt becoming IB tlilu laxt
conceit. Inan coats also nru allowed great
latitude In HID rnattur of buttons. A few
flnu fjrnnmentnl fellowB nro conaldcred In
good ta to fur brliiKlnrj out the points In wrnpn , and the bolts for such ( .ants ,
when they nro tined , tire folds of satin
Joining In u Hinall compact rosotlu to the
left linnil side.
Hlrtel morning coals depoml for Ihelr
chanto beauty on Btrajm and Mtltches. A
haudHomo ( 'hfslerllijlil fnllB nearly lo thu
kricon , or a knlherln js Ippped off close
about thn hlpx. Hlth'tT cholee In per
mitted. A few long eoatB have lilted
fronts , but square , full backs caught In
under a broad strap that reaches Just to
thu underarm ( team nt either Hide Fly
frontH , Ktrnpiied Bcamn and the pruketB np-
pllud lo the oiilnlile , turnover cuffs nnd Hat
Murrh lias tacked about , and now nho puts
' finr wateh on a gold chain of small , closely
woven flat gold link. U may or may not
bu punctuaUd with jenel bcadn , but the
glory of It Is a JeuclM slide that catches
the two Bides of the chain together. The
Hldo in often a nmall ohleld of rich green
ennmcl bearing. In diamonds , thelady's In
itials , but whatever It In It glows with grinn ,
making n bright spot of light and color on
the wearer's bream. The watch IB thrust
Into Iho drcKs belt and Hie chain hang.s
from the neck to far below the wnlst line.
No longer does one nee the possessors of
good wardrobes wearing metal , lealher or
narrow ribbon belts. They gird the waist
with a wlilo taffeta , or fiatln ribbon. A rib
bon six Inches In length Is approved , and
thin M pulled BO close aboul Iho middle Hint
It fill IB Into close folds. In front , one end
IH pinned down nnd Iho oilier Is drawn
! through a Louis Qulnz buckle , sheared off
on the blaB end , with stout gold pins fast
ened down upon the Ilrst end. Undoubtedly
by this devleo a moro sunvo lln Is dc-
Bcrlbed about the waist , and Bhort bodied ,
Htout women gain grace and length of line
by the maneuver. In the rear a bar pin ,
al rl In made In the morning between & and
C o'clock , for at thin lime the birds are espe
cially lively , shouting forth their morning
matins and ( lying from bough to bough in
i search of food and drink to refresh them-
nelveg after the night's repose.
The glrln form a strikingly pretty picture
when they gather togclher at thin early
hour. It would seem as though the birds
themielvcs had whispered to them about the
I ( linens of their gowns , as each one appears
in a dark , woolen golf skirt , and high , laced ,
! leather boots that are proof against briers ,
I the hillside dew and the swamps , where
! many of the choicest birds are to be nought.
They wear woolen ehlrlwalsts or Norfolk
Jackets , as the mornings are cool and damp.
From their belts hang neat note books and
pencils to jot down observations , and each
girl In armed with a pair of strong field
glasses. This Is also tbo Urae , par exccl-
! lence , for Ihose lhat possess them lo wear
bracelets or belts that cncaso Email
watches. No particular style of hat Is worn ,
but they should not be conspicuous.
"After all , ' one glrPexclalmcd , "It Is not
so dlfllcult to get up early. It requires
courage to put the first foot out of bed. but
after that Is accomplished no difference In
tlmo Is remembered and the morning Is
heavenly. "
Once started , ihc first principle of a class
sludylng birds Is not to talk and to move
with as cat-llko a tread as possible. Song-
Hlors nio very shy , and ut the approach of
one trying to scan them closely will often
hide thctnHchcs for hours under leaves and
grosses. Many birds are also credited with
the power to ECO as far as 100 miles , and
their hearing Is most nculc. The ability
, to sit Immovably Is also essential to a bird
Bluilent When It IH known lhat a rare
bird haunts u. certain spot , whcro perhaps
collars are nil dlHtlngiilBliliig marlm of the
Minnrl morning unit.
Mellon , heavy Vienna , Viennese and
rough Kcoteh moor cloth are Iho mntorlnlB
of which the walking ronls aru made. For
coldcBl weather In Hlionn a Rood : ) called
felt cloth , that IH MI sturdy of weave It
makrfl up without a lining , and Its rovers
will turn back , In ninny limlnnccri , fiom
vcstn of fur.
Olllrlnl Auliilliii > < > ellli-x.
Hero and there the olllclal autumn no\el-
tkH are Beiin. Four-button walking glovcB
of heavy drcHBeil kid. Hint , however , bimut
no gliue , colored nlatu , gray ami Irnf brown
and relieved by the brondoHl of deep oreatr.
Bilk BlItchliiKH. Hmiilmmio black gant ill
sueilo are Blllched pieltlly In dark greer.
and blown , and are adopted by the bent
dressed women. The glove buttons of peari
or metal exactly match the kid In color.
In these well gloved linmlH nro carried
pretty purscB , inndn exnclly on thu pattern -
torn of the waterproof leather luhnccn
poui'hcB Hint the Inveternlo Binoker layn
nuch Mete by Now liniidkerohlofK show a
band of drawn work running about
the four RldeB. Just Imildr the hem , and
drawn work InlllnlH. helped out bv a few
Btllchen of embroidery , are In the beat
Insto. From thn llnosl Hllk mull , In Ivory
while , thn must charming of the Hinall
liandkerehlefH , for very full dress orcasloim ,
nre made. A pietty eonrelt In decorating
HICHO with white embroidery docs not de
mand the Initial bub. a liny wreath of Unit
Ilinver. which IB Hlinlfleant of the owner't )
name. She who IH wiled Margaret buyn a
lutndUerchlef rmbroldeied In Held ilnlHlcx ;
llhoila , roses ; Viola , violets ; Mary , blttrr-
HWeel ; Sarah , genlluiiB , and Kllinboth , lilies.
Tlio KxiMiInu lllniiNO ,
Thai "old reliable. " the thcaler wuldt ,
IIIIB bobbed iii | serenely again and In
lovely guise. It COIIICH low-necked and
short -shoved , or very high In the thrnat
and long In the alrovo , but , IIB ever , lo bo
worn with Homo serviceable dark Bklrt.
Ono of Iho prettiest Been this rnrly was a
dinner bloiifo of pleated lllae ehllton , cut
out Bquaro over the Rhouldcra and trimmed
with bainlB of Ivory while lace sparkling
with colored beads U was a simple ,
charming confection whipped up by an
amuteur hand.
All the blouses aiv made to IH over the
nklrt belt , and a good deal of Ingenuity Is
e\erel8i'il therefore tn Iho making of novel
glidlca. Slender women wear pretty pointed
I'oned waist bauds that lace up on either
litp , and the rnrlhod Is to fold a broad Lib
erty Ritltn Mill-on In cliuo folds aboul the
watiit nnd knot It n lllllo lo ono side In
an open rosette with wired edgo. Some-
llnifH ono largo nnd Iwo Email roecttcB nro
set at the fastening point , and , when a
bright H.Itin la used. Iho elTect Is that of
wearing a knot of quaint Mowers.
Strnngo nro the nmnlfeetallons of the
Btnnit woman. Her tanto threatening to
leiuo the little gold nrck chain In the
net with a Htone , faBlens one edge of Iho
I ribbon to tbo wnlit.
I IHllHll-lllIllllM Of I < * IIM01IH ,
Coils for September and October nro sot
fin Hi In tln > aefompanylng sketches , along
with a Btono drown capo of rich Venetian
cloth. Strapped noams nnd etltchlngB , with
, full iiii-hu of green laflota Hllk bordering
i thu fronlo , Biipply thu only orimmentntlon
medeil fur this long , easy wrap.
Of Hie coats dlsilnyed | two nro for rather
momenlouH occasions anil onu a Btreet wmp.
This last In hrlghl blue eonuhman's melton ,
having UB oulHldo pocketH rt In a frame
of stllchery and the seaiun everywhere
biomlly oveilnld. Within black silk serge
Is used ax lining. Ono of the companion
c-o.ilB , of imtliiy Freni-h niellon In a warm
Hhado of green , Illustrate * the extent to
whU-h lovern abound Here the under leverB
nru of Ivory Bill In , the buttons on the shield
! llko melton front are Imitation caboohon
emeralds net In gun metal and the girdle
of blnck catln. Thu nock Is et off with a
black satin collar and a rear ruche of os
trich HPH. Thu third coat IB blnck cloth
caught diagonally actoss the bust by thrco
big Jetted buttons , and over the chest un
fold two wldo leaf-Rhaped i overs faced with
Hiilln of a bright coppery burnish. Satin
of the samu tonefacca the Inslilu of the tall
There h some gossip going about con
cerning Iho Simon wo ere to wear In the
coining winter , and in substantiation of the
rumor * the three styles are given. The
high , f.oft dongola boat Is thu newest thing
designed for thine who wish to appear to
wear button boot.s and yet profit by the
safety of tightly drawn leather over weak
ankle * . Tills shoo Hhovvs the heel and typo
of Biilo that has been approved for the au
tumn of 'tis , Jtisl an Iho llnt-soloil pump of
pnlmit lealher has received olllclal cachet ,
nn Iho most all-aroumi Hcnslhle dancing
shoo. For women who must dance on a
higher heel and lighter sole , the pretly arch
duchess Kllpper Is Hirggosteil. It In Hindu of
any miedr. glai-o kid or satin preferred , opens
clear down to the lee point , to show a gny
stocking , and drawn four utraps over thu
Instep Ihrmigh brilliant buckles fastened on
the Hillside. MARY DKAN.
i\\MiKi\Aint : it i it HIM : .
A Kimlilomtlili * Outdoor Ultrritloii In
I'livor Till * SeiiNon ,
The hlnlH this summer nro being favored
with an unusual amount of attention. At
the extremely fashionable summer places ,
Newport , LOIION and liar Harbor , bird
classes have been formed and the absorb
ing topic of conversation Is "blrdlng. "
"It Is so Interesting. " said a gay girl lhat
know the country pimply aa a place that
held tbig summer hotel , "to 11 ml out that
bird SOURS are as varied and fascinating ns
the themes of nn opera. "
Clnssos have usually from six to eight
members , and go blnllng under the guid
ance of a professional ornllhologisi. The
i nimt Is In hiding , H IH often necessary to
Bit quietly and wait for the bird to nhovv
himself , that In futuiu hla appearance may
be connected with bla song , which bus per
haps been continuously heard.
UotruclorB to tht-Ho clauses have waxed
unusually witty on the subject of the girls
not talking and sitting quietly for hours ,
Dut hero , again , Is an Illuntrallon of Hie
complex character of the summer girl. She
bccomcH ns great an enthusiast at blrdlug
as Bhu IH at golf nnd bicycling , and , as In
these Hporl , she adheres closely to what Is
required of her. In fact , nothing annoys a
class so much ns to have among Its num-
beiB a girl lhat Is at all frivolous. The
only offense or Inattention among them
lhat Is over condoned in when one lags be
hind to bathe her face with the morning
dew. The girls argue that the cause la a
rlghtcoua ono and ? o walk unsuspectingly
on and never look behind.
A member of the Lenox class told re
cently of having to wait thrco bourn In
order to nco Hie scarlet tnnagnr. Her pa
tience was , however , rewarded , as at last
shp had a good view of both the male aud
female busily engaged In feeding a brood of
young ones.
More birds nro seen nnd they nro better
Btudlcd by following fhe outskirts of the
woods limn by going Into their denser
port Ions. Swamps , brooks and running
slrcAtns are also Ideal places to seek them ,
and one ROOII learns to expect certain varie
ties nf birds In certain localities.
It waB known by an amateur ornithologist
that a iod-eyed oriole had a nest In n tree
by the edge of a wood , aa at thU bpol she
was always atlracted by his Incessant chat
ter. Of all the birds ho Is Ihe grealest
glbberer. In Germany they call him * ho
preacher , because they claim ho says dis
tinctly , "You must do U. Can't you see
It ? Don't you think It ? " Therefore she
ensconced hoi self for three successive morn-
IIIRH within range nf lila voice , and watched
In vain for an opportunity to level her { Mass
upon him. At last In despair slio sought
the foot of the tree which formerly had
been hidden by a fence. To her amaze
ment , she saw sitting on Iho ground wltlr
placid patience and looking up Into the
tree a huge gray cut , lhat had evidently been
as untiring In his deslro to tteo the red-eyed
oriole us she herself had been.
Star students In the blrdlng classes are
these able to Imitate most cleverly a kiss ,
nK this particular sound la said to attract
both song nparrowB and warblers. The girls
pay they practice by kissing the back of
their hand , nnd there is no question of
Ihelr proficiency In making the oscillatory
An many as from twenty to forty species
of blrda nro frequently Been In a morning's
outing. The classes remain out from four
to tlvo hours , and tramp nn unconsclonablu
distance. The girls clamber over fences
with little ceremony , ami often go deep
Into the swamps. It has also been rumored
by lluibo having neighboring berry pnlchca
that the homeward route of the bird
Is not difficult to trace , and that the oh
scnro crows have somehow lost their forrm i
efficacy. Dut of all those that regard bird
Ing with e > es askance are the cooks tha
await their return between 9 and 10 oiloi-l
In the morning.
"Palth , " cried one , "they've clean forgot
ten that I gave them coffee and rolls a
nunrlse. "
AMiitl < AN
A I'loiirlnlilnn Hni-r of Human Ytil
turt'i In UiirUi-Hl IVrn.
Dy oven the most excellently educate !
folk cannibalism Is hardly reckoned nmonf
American defects of character and yet then
Is no need for nny ono who has the curiosltj
to cross the seas In order to gaze upon i
human mancater. Down In darkest Peru
over an outlying eastern ridge of the Andes
toward the very unsettled boundary lines ol
Drazll and Dollvla , u flourishing race ol
cannibalistic Indians can be found. The )
are so fierce and unapproachable , even foi
Indlani , that during the several centuries
that 1'uru has been known to the clvlllzeil
world , few missionaries or explorers have
oven felt courage enough to guarantee any
thing llko a close study of their ecccntrl-
cities. It was an Hngllsh woman and an en
thusiastic traveler who recently brought
homo a photograph of ono of the women ol
| a cannibal tribe , and of these people , she
I wan persuaded to forgo Investigation. His
tory In Peru , even ns It runs back to the
traditions of the earliest Lucas , mentions no
i tlmo when this race , commonly known as
t Chuncho , even submitted to any Intercourse
or alliance with their more domesticated
The civilized Indians regard them with a
horror that only cannibalism can Inspire ,
and only at long intervals have the white
residents of Peru seen or captured nny of
these remarkable savages. The fiercest of
the Chunchos are the Antes and the Cas-
clbos , who range the forests where the pre
cious Peruvian hark Is found , and who fight
each other In thp hopes of securing prison
ers for a cannibalistic orgle. Dut there Is
a queer cede In their savage law. They
make no effort to seize women for their
feasts. The very degradation of the sex
Is In a way Its preservation.
The male Ante or Casclbo regards n
woman ns an Impure being. She Is a
comfort , though she accepts her Blmro of
duty , and n cannibal brave would well
nigh perish of starvation before he would
pollute his lips with femaln flesh. Not only
IB a w6mnn thus desplhod , but her blood
IB feared as a poison , from the taste of
which o man roulil recover. The cannibal
women profess no such distaste for man's
IleBh , hut are said to eat It with relish ,
while In their own turn they have evidently
taken no active steps to convince the men
against their onelent error and prejudice.
Saving the protection she receives from
this strange superstition , the cannibal
woman enjoys slight benefits ns far as any
explorers in eastern Peru have been nblo
to (1ml ( out. She cultivates the ground a
little , looks after the children , and cur
iously enough , In Borne of 'these ' tribes poly
gamy Is forbidden. Whether this IB duo
or not to feminine- Influence nobody hus yet
hud the pluck or luck to find out.
When In bccluslon In her forest homo the
cannibal woman wears n rough cloth gar
ment , falling to the knees from the hips ,
beads nntl heavy necklaces that suspicion
and sonio reliable evidence say are composed
chiefly of polished bits of human bone , and
on gain occasions , car and nose buttons ,
with plentiful bedaubing of paint , make up
the tollot. There Is no effort at a coiffure ,
and the accompanying picture of a cannibal
hello shows over the upper lip , under the
eyes and across the cheeks and chin , how
thu paint Is laid on.
In certain arts these fierce women nro
eminently skilled. They prepare the poisons
for tipping the arrows used by the men In
war and for smearing the heavy clubs em
ployed In the buslnesa
of finishing oil nn
unemy when brought to his knees. Among
the civilized Indians the belief Is that no
virulent nro these poisons that where they
touch the broken skin the wounded person
dies within a row moments. So far as
Investigation has been pursued the cannibal
Indians have always recognized the prop
erties of the canc-irllla bark. The women
In cases of fever use nn Infusion of H
drawn from the green bark , which Is after
nil regarded as more promptly efllcacious
than thi white quinine powder that civil
ized chemistry extracts from the same
HAWAII'S niiMsin sovnuniax.
Knrly Ufiof the i\-dutM-ii D.-dill.-d
l > y u Si-hoolKlrl Frlrint.
Llko many other royal personages ,
Lllluokalanl was not "born to the purple , "
but became a queen through accident , so to
speak , and It WBH not until Kalnkaua be
came king that Lllluokulnnl was known by
that long name , literally Lydla of the
heavens , hut simply as Lydla Pakl. H was
as Lydla Pnkl that she grew up In Honolulu
lulu and It was by that name that Bho was
married to John 0. DomlnlH. When her
brother ascended the thione she become a.
princess and blossomed Into the royal
When the writer first know Lydla Pnkl
It was when both worn scholars at the royal
school of Honolulu. The children of all the
foreigners as the white residents were then
called were sent to that school. It being ,
In fact , the only ono worthy of the name In
existence In Hawaii at the time.
Lydla was not a particularly bright
scholar , but she did manage to keep up with
her class. She showed a special aptitude ,
however , for miiBlc , playing both the piano
and guitar , and singing In n rather weak ,
sweet voice. In later yeors she composed
some waltzI-H , national airs , etc. , but they
tiavc little merit as musical compositions.
Lydla went to school In considerable
state , being taken there each day In n nun 11
open cart drawn by two natives. The cart
was low with four wheeln. a seat In thi
back held two people , while n polo ex
tended In front , on either sldo ofhtch
walked the men who drew the carl. In
pacing It niny ho paid that throi' eartw were
In coneral use for these who eould nffoiil
"to Ui'er their own tarrlago , " fur fi'w. It
nny. horses hail boon broKen to lurnoax , al
though there wore plenty for riding , lie-
hind thU ve'hldo a native no mint walked ,
holding an umbrella over Lydla' * he.ul.
The cart WOH left Mamllng In the n-hool
yard nil dn > , thu n-rvnnlK colnis bnek to
town , returning In I IIP afternoon. AH most
of the BcholarH walked to school , up a
hot , dusty. Bhadelcvit road from the town
r > r down an i Dually hot. dusty. Mijuleli-ss
road from the vnllov. they wore greatly
Impressed by this "cnrrlnc "
It S B during J'akl's llfe''nif LyJU'i
ymutg brother Jaino * went on a vislr to the
neighboring of Maul where ho died ,
the news of hli donth being brought to
Honolulu during the night Immediately
Iho "walling" began , n most unearthly sound
by which the native * express both joy ami
norrow , thour who Know the different shadea
nf rxproixlon kajliK they ran distinguish
between the two "walls. " but to a foreigner
who flrtt hears thin fearful nolso when just
nvvakenlng from sleep in the mlddlo of the
night , there U tomrthlng terrifying In the
For n chlof the witling Is louder and moro
prolonged than for n common native , and j
lh < higher the rank the louder the \oU'e
: vml the greater the number who take part i
In U The sound Is something like A-we > -
c-e-c-e-e , with a sort of a tremolo on ra h
t - pronounced aall be'ng uttered in a
piercing voice with a note of despair cr '
horror occasionally put Inwhere It will '
make the mot' . ffet i
In accordance with the na'ive rj * ? m at | i
An [ xternal Ionic Applied to the Skin
Beautifies It As by ftiarjic.
Thousands have tried from time Immem
orial to discover 301110 elllcaclous remedy
for wrinkles and other Imperfections of
the complexion , but none had yit suc
ceeded until the Misses Dull , the now fam
ous Complexion Specialists , of 78 Fifth
avenue , New York City , offered the pub
lic their wonderful Complexion Tonic.
The reason BO tunny fulled to make tills
discovery before Is plain , because they have
not followed the right principle. Halms ,
Creams , Lotions , etc. , never have n tonic
effect upon the akin , hence the failures.
The Hisses Dell's Complexion Tonic has
a most exhilarating effect upon the cuticle ,
absorbing mid carrying off nil Impurities
which the blood by Its natural action Is
constantly forcing to the suifaco of thu
Eklu. It is to the skin what a vitalizing
tonic Is to the blood ami nerves , a kind of
uew life that Immediately exhilarates and
strengthens wherever npplied. Its tonic
effect IB felt almost Immediately , and It
speedily banishes forever fiom the skin ,
freckles , plmplca , blackheads , moth patches ,
wrinkles , liver upots , roughness , olllness ,
eruptions and discoloiatlons of nny kind.
In order that nil may be benefited by
their Orcat Discovery , the Missus Doll will ,
during the present month , give to all call-
era at their parlora one trial bottle of their
Complexion Tonic absolutely free ; and In
order that these who cannot call or who
llvo away from New York niny bo bene
fited , they will send ono bottle to any ad
dress , all charges prepaid , on the receipt of
25 cents ( stamps or silver ) to cover cost of
packing and delivering. The price of this
wonderful tonic Is Jl.OO per bottle , and
this liberal offer should be embraced by all.
The Misses Dell have Junt published
their new boon , "Secrets of Deauty. "
This valuable work la free to all desiring
It. The book treats exhaustively of the
Importance of a good complexion ; tells
how a woman may acquire beauty and
keep It. Special chapters on the care of
the hair : how to have luxuriant growth ;
harmless methods of making the hair pre
serve Its natural beauty aud color , even to
advanced age. Also Instructions how to
banish superfluous hair from the face ,
neck and arms without Injury to the sxln.
This book will bo mailed to nny address on
FREE Trial Dottles of Wonderful Com
plexion Tonic free at parlors , or 25 cents
( cost of packing and mailing ) to those at a
Correspondence cordially solicited. Ad
THE MISSES BilA , 78 Fifth AVC , . N w York City.
The MldncM Hot I'M Complexion Tonic , Complexion Simp , Skin Fooil nml De-
lillo arc fur Nlile by nil
la , she had her huad shaved and her front
Uelh filed In points. Half mourning per
haps It should bo said , for the really proper
thing would have been to have had her cyo
tcelh knocked out. Thanks lo Pnkl's In-
lluonco nnd nulhorlty her mourning did not
extend to that dlsflgurcmenl. She was away
from school for about a week , her return be
ing anxiously looked for by her companions ,
who felt there was something weird , fan
tastic nnd mysterious about such ceremonies.
When she returned to school she were a
thick black lace veil on her head which suc
cessfully concealed her lack of hair , and her
front teeth soon grew , or rather were off ,
Then the time came when Lydla became
engaged lo John 0. Domlnls , the "only Bon
of his mother and she was a widow. " Or
It was supposed that she was a widow.
YenrR before her husband had sailed awny
from Honolulu to some south Pacific Island ,
and was never heard of , And yet although
ro ninny years had passed , Mrs. Domlnls
never gave up the belief thut her huabaud
would ono day return.
This engagement was not at nil to the
liking of Mrs. Uomlnls. John's mother. She
was a woman who should have lived In a
amall New England village , for her horizon
never enlarged from what it was when ajiu
left that small village to go lo Honolulu.
A notable housekeeper , blio kept her largo
house filled with boarders , but she was a
meddlesome gossip , whoso bitter tongue
caused unhapplneas to many. To expect
her to accept Lydla as a welcome daughter-
in-law was out of the question , In fact ,
there was little expectation of much happi
ness In Lydla's raarrlngo by those who
know the facts , for not only was there thn
antagonism of thu mothcr-ln-law , but John
Domlnls himself had been badly brought up ,
ho was Inclined even then lo be dlHSlpatul ,
and ho had associated with the natives until
ho had Imbibed some of their worst traits.
Dy "natives" in this sense la meant the
common , uneducated people , whoso Influ
ence , and whoso low morality , made them
until companions for joung persons of either
After Lydln'B marriage cho went to re-
sldo with Mrs. Honilnls , and the usual -e-
aulL of trying to mix two totally distinct
InillvldunlB obtained.
As a girl , the characteristics attributed
to Lydla by her political enemlrh wt-ro not
prominent ; on the contrary , It would seem
that she was nf a timid , modjst , retiring
disposition. Dlgnltled , jcs , for all the
Hawaiian * possess dignity in n great de-
grio. but ambitious , scheming , obstinate ,
cruel , certainly no traces of such traits of
character were ever seen , and It U illflli ult
for the Intimate friends of her youth to
realize or believe all tlio unpleasant things
said of her politically and personally. Surely ,
with but few friends loyal to her In recent
years , with her throne and kingdom forever
lost to her , the last of her family , she has
suffered bitterly whether Innocent or guilty.
wn.Minuri i , oi.ii IADIIS.
> ! > ! nil \Vlio I.IMMI i.'nr , . , , , | „
( Viilurj.
U Is an acknowledged fact that women
more often attain a very great ago than
rnun. Among women , ono of the most famous
centenarians was the countess of Desmond ,
who died In the reign of James I from the
effects of an accident. Her reputed age was
113 jears. This wonderful old lady at Ihe
ago of 100 yearn was so lively and well that
she actually took part In a dance ; find only
fl\o years before her death she traveled
from Drlstol to London a tremendous Jour
ney In these days In order to pcrsonallj
attend to some business matters.
Lady Desmond's fame as a centenarian
pinks into nothing compared with that of n
Frenchwoman of the nauio of .Mario Prlon.
who died In St. Colombo at the ag # of TO
years. Toward the end of her life she sub-
listed entirely on goal's milk and cheese ,
and. although her body was so shrunk and
wasted that she weighed only forty-six
pounds , * be retained her mental faculties
to the last.
It Is a curious fact , but some women have
been known to enter a second youth when
most of their fellows ille hair and teerh
Lome again and sight and hearing once
more bctomo sharp unj qui > k \ certain
rrarq < o dc Miratnau is an example of this
She died at S tut scrae years l fcre her
3emro her wh ! e appearance changed so
ttut the lc"k l crr'alrly cc1 mere than CO
Th-3 sa'jih'rs hsjr ei to a nun of the
nojnc of Margjcrl'e VerJ.r who at the agi >
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flre Von Going < ist ? i
Jf ion are letting for ft mm fur la Me trip , mi r rounded by *
maL tMlftlitful wenm , 111 going lo ! Se * lorb , IlilU-
< 1t ! | hU , or w * Li > re jniiDU , jou nunti do btlr thta Ui H
from IlufTkla rr Vhesra I'tlli rutwtrj. 3
lb roul It through * rttfli u < f
In * ItiJlnn liinU > M < \illrjft , mountain hrtght * , ruiMnc
rHcri anj ] > | . , l.l Jtkti Thm U lU rout * cf tb *
Wlnrrn liufTftlu rul "WH WL , Mil * WpbU tlie .
li > n < t < inirl train tn ttc M < > rM *
All through day traltti utrj diulug &ari wrTto "
S For IHuBlrftlv I , ! fHptU Ix Vi on IM * rout * , or Inform *
- linn A lotlkiof firr , tl , wtiil.njt > a Irwii , witli f < njr troll i
fi luiUni | , tul'hn * . . I.C1- . ! . > ' ! , Autnl. N w Vtlk. J
Use and
Facial Soap Facial Cream
Woodbury f. l-'ai-lul Soap , Kiirlnl Cream ,
Facial nml Tooth I'owdiM luiMi the ImloiHu-
nient of the Mcillcal and iJentul I'rotVsslon.
.Sold everj where.
gained her Hlght and grew several new
I'rlllN Ol I'Mkllloll.
Kntlro gowns of heavy black-knotted Bilk ,
with deep fringed edges , are In vogue for
evening weai. 'Ihty look best mailo over
a foundation of black fntln.
The Uuchcss of Devonshire haU sllll flood
the market these turned up nt an aeuto
angle on ono side and in a downward curve
on the other.
Among the most generally becoming colors
of the season before us will bn the damenn
rtvea end a varied class of Blmllar plum
tints , llko dahlia , petunia , etc.
v-o k'b-cuiab red ib thu newest Bliade of
the color. Serge and cloth jackctx , and oven
dresses. In ihls blatant hue are among Hie
new things In autumn modes.
Tim chief characteristic of fashion's
prepent show Is its Infinite varlelv. Its
modified and graceful designs and outlines ,
and endless stjles , t Homing un unlimited
choice of models tmltcd lo any peculiarity
of form , face or feature.
Among the useful little additions to the
toilet are close coat ulieves of thin silk ,
made to clip tn under the transparent
sleeves proper of blouses urnl olher hoi-
weather waists. When the day IH cooler
than usual these adjustable undersleoveH
glvo the needed protection lesa easily sup
plied to the arms thun about Ihe neck and
Very smart thP-e-rjuarters length water
proof coats corno In white or In pain tan
shudss for women who are fond of handling
the whip and reins. They have ventilated
yokes ormmcntoil with stitching , and , aa
a rule , doublbrea3te l fastening. Thcsu
coats are made with comfnnablv full sleeves ,
finished at the hand with a cuff formed of
a banj with a strap , which can be drawn
close in cuso of a downpour of rain.
A new tennis thee , which Is ulso most
comfoitable for tramping or ctllnK , Is
made or patent leather or glace kid , or In
Un. black or green canvas with a very low
heel and sole of holld rubber. A cornforl-
ublc strap acrobs the Instep keeps It on and
at Urn same time leaves Ihe ankle absolutely
free Tor general wear Ihe buttoned boot ,
to authorities my. will supersede rho laced
hoc for winter wear. This , how over , Is al
most ulwajs a matter of Individual taste.
Tto Failor hat of U''S Is a faithful copy
of the rough straw shapes worn by men. U
has a lower and less oblong crown than the
sailer huts tf o year ago , and there U no
"short-back" eflcct , for tbc brlrn Is of ona
width all around , affording no great protec
tion for the face , and us a rule not Improv
ing In Us Hppcurance , as It has lee narrow
a slraw aureole for the majority of heads
and fares It cannot by any process of rea
soning bo called "dressy ' but It Is neat
and practical and no other Htylo of hat ,
for certain uses can take Its place
Forne rf tbo dainty ham Clock dresses and
easy gowns worn on sultry day * this veaion
ore made of dattea and flowered Swiss mus
lin , pink , blue , or cream batiste , or soft
urdrc caed mull * Many of thesn drnsiet
have slightly drooping blouse fronti. neatly