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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 4, 1898)
Til 13 OMAHA DAILY UEE : PUXDAY , SEl'TMM.Uttl ? , 1808. ' 4 > exS'gl@3 . ! ) ® x Xji rs SX iSX SX STX * V01SJ S > SvS > tS > S- § > II IN TOE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. | | * _ fX& Sv. & & SflTs ) ( | rv5 > S\1 s05 fjR ? " " " ! IWJ8WSP | ) ? AI/H MV WHAI'H. ( 'mill mill CMIICM fur t'itr\y \ Wlnlrr , ( Mill IMIlCP I'rlllM llf I'llnllllllli NI3W YOIIK , Hept. Z.Wit nro already bo- in think rrlouly of the where withal WP uliall bo protected niuln ; l the whlto tfctli at thi ) llmt autiimmil frost As lung ngo nn April wo HUDK ; i over , ri'inll"d the cnod workit mid vlitnos of and tenderly hurled Iho cape , and lo n lid brliold' It In Kwlnglm ; jllNt M jnuntlly nn you ii\i \ > ani from the fthouldnra of women v/hotiu tanto Is abovn suspicion. There In no getting about thi ) fact that women like Iho rnpn and have of tholr own will rcmiscltatiMl It , bin n morn bungling , ilrnlrun eort nt a garment wan never * PCI ) , nnli'Hx rino admit the Btralght Jacket. If you nro going nn a Heptcmhor vacation lo the mountalim to BCO the leaven turn , IIT you hnvn hern asked to conrh through fiotiii ! partlnulnrly nlno bit uf country , you can't pretend lo bo dcrontly equipped urilcai ynu On rnrry n cnpo. Dut not yuur corn- fortnhle old iolf rupo The nrnart thing tn ilo In to buy a big Imported Hrotcli blankrt , fringe d nt linth pniln and end Kldo woven In bright pi u M HtreakB. You tnku thin tn your Uillor and hnvo him cut It up ami HOW It ilown Into n wrap Hint hugn your dhould- ern and ptrm your uritin tight to your ftldot. It muni huvo a tall , Hi In grlngril collnr , and rcftclilni ; thu waist line. How abnilt thu hlpa In nn exeRHlvnly iifly ( milled tall , over hung with fringe. Illi ; Bteel or pnarl but tons mid frliiKinl rovcrn stolidly ornament Iho front , and tberi < you have a travesty on the gulf enpo of rioblo memory , lly rnrik- Ing thu bnily of tint wrap with the plain nlile of thu blanket turned out , and cuttlni ; hip nillli1 , collar nml revern from the plaid nliln , tin Innult In rotor In added to thin In jury In cut ; theiefore , If the ratio In mil delid lo unefiiliiPKH , It ninety In dead to all rermo of beauty , Kor I'niNty 1)11.1 N. A fur morn npllmlnUc lone can bo taken nboiil the mt'lton and heaver cloth capcn , elaborately ntltched and HlrnppiMl , that are Hlrlvlng for the gruro of leeognltlon along- Hldn thi ) bold , luid blanket wrapt ) . Them- , Ilkii the new nklrlH , moiit to do away with all fnlm-HH. nnd they lak the iilioulilern without a wi Inkle. Juiit IIB the good Hlclrlrt enilimu n wenrer'n hlpo. In bonutlfiil | ad- linil nliiulim nf led. carbon brown and bin- eult color , rnout of these capex tome , and Hiey tineep down from ten lo twenly-ilv Ini'hiK Imlow the wnlMl line. They show a eoiiHplfMKiiiK neam through Iho center of the lmi ; ! ( , iinother on either iihoiilder , for by MrapB nml puckered Btltchlngii thcno junc tion linen are turned Into broad ornamenta tion. A collar , fairly gollilo In propor- llonn , tiirim up about lhi > neck , anil down the fronlH run two iloilblu box-pleated rin-huH of Hllk , main or velvet. Any of Ilieno tin rii niatnrlalB In employe for HID llnliiK , wllhln which n mont gratifying nrray of poi'ketn In plai'ed by thu cuiiBlileiuta tailor. Later iiliiiig In the iiciiHon capeH Hitch an Ihuio will bu put forth with lining * of cat , nqulrrel. coon and rabbit nkln ; for , now Unit Ilin duly on furB IK HO high , Uulh W'rapH , llneil w'llh Hklnn prociiriMl In DIG iitaloM , will bo the rcfugn of thn economlful. Tallin H and furrleiH are going ( o nml > thn xxperlrmiiL of lining eoatu with ( hcnu light nnd Inexponnlvo Hklnu , and In Ihn into of them followH nn eccentric ParlH fnnhlon. Ovur In that city of whlnm they bavu loariu'd to dyn rhenp furs thu numt lovely HIHICM | ! of led , giiieii , blui' , lilac , imrpln ynd yel low. which diHlilim proiulet'S ' lo eu > ale uu iiulumn Hunsallon. Over In PnilB alno the tain bearers \v\\ \ \ IIB they niu milking ( In * innnt adorabln ihort \el\et coals and eiieiuming them In Jewel hemli. That Is. | K > IIIH | made to rcm-mblu Jewels. ( ombliilng Hie niloiB of HICBO In Indliin. ruriilim and lloral patleniB on vel- vrl. Kinking Hio HiiarklliiK I'lln ' of Kla K deep In the pile and bringing out lie ) high llghln with Hlcel ami gold bemln , they get i > temilt Hint IK nothliiK Blunt of magnlllcent. \ \ liilrr Ciiiita. Nnl ix iiul can yet bn ( ruthfully Biild about fur wrapH , but clolli coatH ate being taken very iierloiiHly , and Ihn law roiiooinlng their nhiipn ami ormenlullon run bo nafely pio- elalmed. All the familiar WHIVCH of cloth , from lln > doughty heaver to tinlln-rarei ! mel ton. that IB an mift IIM a pimch'H nkln and well nigh IIB fragile , mo on the market and the i-olorii Bhow not oven it Hlrango Blind- Ing. Tliwut ate long , Inoio eoatB and short tight cirnlH , but mighty fmv | iPtt | < i | In wm , pundnnl fronln. Uvldiuilly wo huvu gel over thut epidemic , in UK phicn wo have mlopie.l . the most conspicuous nnor. or BorleH of rovi'i-B. ( ) \rr Iho bunt of a black brown or gray cloth eoat two wlilo Irnt-xlinpctl | ilect'H turn , faced with tmtln ( ) f a Rly , ( onPi lVr. ) , npreiul wllh niched i-hlnon , or glowing with Orlnnlnl loveliilloim In beadwork onelot. . Koine fiialB turn Imi-k a HOI leu of square do- tHi-hi'il rovom , wide iindur the chin , with u touplo of Binnllei nmn lii'lou The rc\itr may or may not \teml fiom aOH | , and women will enjoy tIO | Blmil | multlplUM 'rnir.D HOI Muiii > itts. .Ml Hun DIIUII , Wcnry nml AVonU , . .MorlllnuIHIII nml Mulil. If one were to ask all the ntirvouH , fri'ttod , JndPd , fagged-out women , who work day ftorduj. hardly able to keep on their feet If n pel him weio to RBK them what their trouble .was , ono would say dyvpcp- nlu. another nerv ous prostration , another. female weakness , and BO on The fnct U , bowmor , that they lu'iuly all tbo Mime and that dleraso U rhronlo catarrh. Ttioumnila of people hmo chronlo catarrh nnd do not Know It. They ri'iilljo thill they are Hick , but they do iut huspect that their dlnraoo la chioutc o.itarrli. if they ha\o catarrh of the utonuirh. thuy call It l > * | ui ln : If they Imto general catarrlut lelilllty , they call It nervous prostration ; If they h vo cntnrh of the liver or KUUu < ) n , they tny they are bilious or have kidney illfodto ; and It they have catarrh of the pohlc ogiuK , they name It femalu wmk- urr . The truth t nil HIPJO organs nro nb- Joct to catarrh , ami the Innd U full of tollIng - Ing women , half limillda , who have rhroulc catarrh In tome * IOK or form of some of there organs. Mlfs Frances Fugel , Marcus and Ander sen nvenuoc , St. LouU , Miv , writes of IV- ru-na as follows : "I wl a ttxtt all who are nftllcteJ wltb catarrha.1 troubles would hear of jour great remivly. I cannot be too grateful towards you for your kindness to me " Any woman who desires to learn all that 1s known lu regard to the iT.fflcultlea and Dinettes peculiar her sex should tend to Jr Hartman , Columbus , Ohio , for a IYc ropy of his book cntltleJHealth Mid Deauty. " revern , an many an five , folding one over thn other at either nlde. An odd feature of the drenn coat , ns dirferentliillrig from Iho severely wlmplo Btrect Jaekol , In Its nit-eve. It fulls a little on the uliotihler nnd In cut long over the hand. Often enough Its collar IB a close eriiihed band of satin , with a rear ruff of nitrlch tlpn , and immt becoming IB tlilu laxt conceit. Inan coats also nru allowed great latitude In HID rnattur of buttons. A few flnu fjrnnmentnl fellowB nro conaldcred In good ta to fur brliiKlnrj out the points In riic.li wrnpn , and the bolts for such ( .ants , when they nro tined , tire folds of satin Joining In u Hinall compact rosotlu to the left linnil side. Hlrtel morning coals depoml for Ihelr chanto beauty on Btrajm and Mtltches. A haudHomo ( 'hfslerllijlil fnllB nearly lo thu kricon , or a knlherln js Ippped off close ' about thn hlpx. Hlth'tT cholee In per mitted. A few long eoatB have lilted fronts , but square , full backs caught In under a broad strap that reaches Just to thu underarm ( team nt either Hide Fly frontH , Ktrnpiied Bcamn and the pruketB np- pllud lo the oiilnlile , turnover cuffs nnd Hat Murrh lias tacked about , and now nho puts ' finr wateh on a gold chain of small , closely woven flat gold link. U may or may not bu punctuaUd with jenel bcadn , but the glory of It Is a JeuclM slide that catches the two Bides of the chain together. The Hldo in often a nmall ohleld of rich green ennmcl bearing. In diamonds , thelady's In itials , but whatever It In It glows with grinn , making n bright spot of light and color on the wearer's bream. The watch IB thrust Into Iho drcKs belt and Hie chain hang.s from the neck to far below the wnlst line. No longer does one nee the possessors of good wardrobes wearing metal , lealher or narrow ribbon belts. They gird the waist with a wlilo taffeta , or fiatln ribbon. A rib bon six Inches In length Is approved , and thin M pulled BO close aboul Iho middle Hint It fill IB Into close folds. In front , one end IH pinned down nnd Iho oilier Is drawn ! through a Louis Qulnz buckle , sheared off on the blaB end , with stout gold pins fast ened down upon the Ilrst end. Undoubtedly by this devleo a moro sunvo lln Is dc- Bcrlbed about the waist , and Bhort bodied , Htout women gain grace and length of line by the maneuver. In the rear a bar pin , al rl In made In the morning between & and C o'clock , for at thin lime the birds are espe cially lively , shouting forth their morning matins and ( lying from bough to bough in i search of food and drink to refresh them- nelveg after the night's repose. The glrln form a strikingly pretty picture when they gather togclher at thin early hour. It would seem as though the birds themielvcs had whispered to them about the I ( linens of their gowns , as each one appears in a dark , woolen golf skirt , and high , laced , ! leather boots that are proof against briers , I the hillside dew and the swamps , where ! many of the choicest birds are to be nought. They wear woolen ehlrlwalsts or Norfolk Jackets , as the mornings are cool and damp. From their belts hang neat note books and pencils to jot down observations , and each girl In armed with a pair of strong field glasses. This Is also tbo Urae , par exccl- ! lence , for Ihose lhat possess them lo wear bracelets or belts that cncaso Email ' watches. No particular style of hat Is worn , but they should not be conspicuous. "After all , ' one glrPexclalmcd , "It Is not so dlfllcult to get up early. It requires courage to put the first foot out of bed. but after that Is accomplished no difference In tlmo Is remembered and the morning Is heavenly. " Once started , ihc first principle of a class sludylng birds Is not to talk and to move with as cat-llko a tread as possible. Song- Hlors nio very shy , and ut the approach of one trying to scan them closely will often hide thctnHchcs for hours under leaves and grosses. Many birds are also credited with the power to ECO as far as 100 miles , and their hearing Is most nculc. The ability , to sit Immovably Is also essential to a bird Bluilent When It IH known lhat a rare bird haunts u. certain spot , whcro perhaps AtTl MN TOATS ANIJ OAPKS. collars are nil dlHtlngiilBliliig marlm of the Minnrl morning unit. Mellon , heavy Vienna , Viennese and rough Kcoteh moor cloth are Iho mntorlnlB of which the walking ronls aru made. For coldcBl weather In Hlionn a Rood : ) called felt cloth , that IH MI sturdy of weave It makrfl up without a lining , and Its rovers will turn back , In ninny limlnnccri , fiom vcstn of fur. Olllrlnl Auliilliii > < > ellli-x. Hero and there the olllclal autumn no\el- tkH are Beiin. Four-button walking glovcB of heavy drcHBeil kid. Hint , however , bimut no gliue , colored nlatu , gray ami Irnf brown and relieved by the brondoHl of deep oreatr. Bilk BlItchliiKH. Hmiilmmio black gant ill sueilo are Blllched pieltlly In dark greer. and blown , and are adopted by the bent dressed women. The glove buttons of peari or metal exactly match the kid In color. In these well gloved linmlH nro carried pretty purscB , inndn exnclly on thu pattern - torn of the waterproof leather luhnccn poui'hcB Hint the Inveternlo Binoker layn nuch Mete by Now liniidkerohlofK show a band of drawn work running about the four RldeB. Just Imildr the hem , and drawn work InlllnlH. helped out bv a few Btllchen of embroidery , are In the beat Insto. From thn llnosl Hllk mull , In Ivory while , thn must charming of the Hinall liandkerehlefH , for very full dress orcasloim , nre made. A pietty eonrelt In decorating HICHO with white embroidery docs not de mand the Initial bub. a liny wreath of Unit Ilinver. which IB Hlinlfleant of the owner't ) name. She who IH wiled Margaret buyn a lutndUerchlef rmbroldeied In Held ilnlHlcx ; llhoila , roses ; Viola , violets ; Mary , blttrr- HWeel ; Sarah , genlluiiB , and Kllinboth , lilies. Tlio KxiMiInu lllniiNO , Thai "old reliable. " the thcaler wuldt , IIIIB bobbed iii | serenely again and In lovely guise. It COIIICH low-necked and short -shoved , or very high In the thrnat and long In the alrovo , but , IIB ever , lo bo worn with Homo serviceable dark Bklrt. Ono of Iho prettiest Been this rnrly was a dinner bloiifo of pleated lllae ehllton , cut out Bquaro over the Rhouldcra and trimmed with bainlB of Ivory while lace sparkling with colored beads U was a simple , charming confection whipped up by an amuteur hand. All the blouses aiv made to IH over the nklrt belt , and a good deal of Ingenuity Is e\erel8i'il therefore tn Iho making of novel glidlca. Slender women wear pretty pointed I'oned waist bauds that lace up on either litp , and the rnrlhod Is to fold a broad Lib erty Ritltn Mill-on In cliuo folds aboul the watiit nnd knot It n lllllo lo ono side In an open rosette with wired edgo. Some- llnifH ono largo nnd Iwo Email roecttcB nro set at the fastening point , and , when a bright H.Itin la used. Iho elTect Is that of wearing a knot of quaint Mowers. Strnngo nro the nmnlfeetallons of the Btnnit woman. Her tanto threatening to leiuo the little gold nrck chain In the net with a Htone , faBlens one edge of Iho I ribbon to tbo wnlit. I IHllHll-lllIllllM Of I < * IIM01IH , Coils for September and October nro sot fin Hi In tln > aefompanylng sketches , along with a Btono drown capo of rich Venetian cloth. Strapped noams nnd etltchlngB , with , full iiii-hu of green laflota Hllk bordering i thu fronlo , Biipply thu only orimmentntlon medeil fur this long , easy wrap. Of Hie coats dlsilnyed | two nro for rather momenlouH occasions anil onu a Btreet wmp. This last In hrlghl blue eonuhman's melton , having UB oulHldo pocketH rt In a frame of stllchery and the seaiun everywhere biomlly oveilnld. Within black silk serge Is used ax lining. Ono of the companion c-o.ilB , of imtliiy Freni-h niellon In a warm Hhado of green , Illustrate * the extent to whU-h lovern abound Here the under leverB nru of Ivory Bill In , the buttons on the shield ! llko melton front are Imitation caboohon emeralds net In gun metal and the girdle of blnck catln. Thu nock Is et off with a black satin collar and a rear ruche of os trich HPH. Thu third coat IB blnck cloth caught diagonally actoss the bust by thrco big Jetted buttons , and over the chest un fold two wldo leaf-Rhaped i overs faced with Hiilln of a bright coppery burnish. Satin of the samu tonefacca the Inslilu of the tall collar. There h some gossip going about con cerning Iho Simon wo ere to wear In the coining winter , and in substantiation of the rumor * the three styles are given. The high , f.oft dongola boat Is thu newest thing designed for thine who wish to appear to wear button boot.s and yet profit by the safety of tightly drawn leather over weak ankle * . Tills shoo Hhovvs the heel and typo of Biilo that has been approved for the au tumn of 'tis , Jtisl an Iho llnt-soloil pump of pnlmit lealher has received olllclal cachet , nn Iho most all-aroumi Hcnslhle dancing shoo. For women who must dance on a higher heel and lighter sole , the pretly arch duchess Kllpper Is Hirggosteil. It In Hindu of any miedr. glai-o kid or satin preferred , opens clear down to the lee point , to show a gny stocking , and drawn four utraps over thu Instep Ihrmigh brilliant buckles fastened on the Hillside. MARY DKAN. i\\MiKi\Aint : it i it HIM : . A Kimlilomtlili * Outdoor Ultrritloii In I'livor Till * SeiiNon , The hlnlH this summer nro being favored with an unusual amount of attention. At the extremely fashionable summer places , Newport , LOIION and liar Harbor , bird classes have been formed and the absorb ing topic of conversation Is "blrdlng. " "It Is so Interesting. " said a gay girl lhat know the country pimply aa a place that held tbig summer hotel , "to 11 ml out that bird SOURS are as varied and fascinating ns the themes of nn opera. " Clnssos have usually from six to eight members , and go blnllng under the guid ance of a professional ornllhologisi. The i nimt Is In hiding , H IH often necessary to Bit quietly and wait for the bird to nhovv himself , that In futuiu hla appearance may be connected with bla song , which bus per haps been continuously heard. UotruclorB to tht-Ho clauses have waxed unusually witty on the subject of the girls not talking and sitting quietly for hours , Dut hero , again , Is an Illuntrallon of Hie complex character of the summer girl. She bccomcH ns great an enthusiast at blrdlug as Bhu IH at golf nnd bicycling , and , as In these Hporl , she adheres closely to what Is required of her. In fact , nothing annoys a class so much ns to have among Its num- beiB a girl lhat Is at all frivolous. The only offense or Inattention among them lhat Is over condoned in when one lags be hind to bathe her face with the morning dew. The girls argue that the cause la a rlghtcoua ono and ? o walk unsuspectingly on and never look behind. A member of the Lenox class told re cently of having to wait thrco bourn In order to nco Hie scarlet tnnagnr. Her pa tience was , however , rewarded , as at last shp had a good view of both the male aud female busily engaged In feeding a brood of young ones. More birds nro seen nnd they nro better Btudlcd by following fhe outskirts of the woods limn by going Into their denser port Ions. Swamps , brooks and running slrcAtns are also Ideal places to seek them , and one ROOII learns to expect certain varie ties nf birds In certain localities. It waB known by an amateur ornithologist that a iod-eyed oriole had a nest In n tree by the edge of a wood , aa at thU bpol she was always atlracted by his Incessant chat ter. Of all the birds ho Is Ihe grealest glbberer. In Germany they call him * ho preacher , because they claim ho says dis tinctly , "You must do U. Can't you see It ? Don't you think It ? " Therefore she ensconced hoi self for three successive morn- IIIRH within range nf lila voice , and watched In vain for an opportunity to level her { Mass upon him. At last In despair slio sought the foot of the tree which formerly had been hidden by a fence. To her amaze ment , she saw sitting on Iho ground wltlr placid patience and looking up Into the tree a huge gray cut , lhat had evidently been as untiring In his deslro to tteo the red-eyed oriole us she herself had been. Star students In the blrdlng classes are these able to Imitate most cleverly a kiss , nK this particular sound la said to attract both song nparrowB and warblers. The girls pay they practice by kissing the back of their hand , nnd there is no question of Ihelr proficiency In making the oscillatory sound. An many as from twenty to forty species of blrda nro frequently Been In a morning's outing. The classes remain out from four to tlvo hours , and tramp nn unconsclonablu distance. The girls clamber over fences with little ceremony , ami often go deep Into the swamps. It has also been rumored by lluibo having neighboring berry pnlchca THHUK NK\V STYLES OF SHOES. that the homeward route of the bird Is not difficult to trace , and that the oh scnro crows have somehow lost their forrm i efficacy. Dut of all those that regard bird Ing with e > es askance are the cooks tha await their return between 9 and 10 oiloi-l In the morning. "Palth , " cried one , "they've clean forgot ten that I gave them coffee and rolls a nunrlse. " AMiitl < AN A I'loiirlnlilnn Hni-r of Human Ytil turt'i In UiirUi-Hl IVrn. Dy oven the most excellently educate ! folk cannibalism Is hardly reckoned nmonf American defects of character and yet then Is no need for nny ono who has the curiosltj to cross the seas In order to gaze upon i human mancater. Down In darkest Peru over an outlying eastern ridge of the Andes toward the very unsettled boundary lines ol Drazll and Dollvla , u flourishing race ol cannibalistic Indians can be found. The ) are so fierce and unapproachable , even foi Indlani , that during the several centuries that 1'uru has been known to the clvlllzeil world , few missionaries or explorers have oven felt courage enough to guarantee any thing llko a close study of their ecccntrl- cities. It was an Hngllsh woman and an en thusiastic traveler who recently brought homo a photograph of ono of the women ol | a cannibal tribe , and of these people , she I wan persuaded to forgo Investigation. His tory In Peru , even ns It runs back to the traditions of the earliest Lucas , mentions no i tlmo when this race , commonly known as t Chuncho , even submitted to any Intercourse or alliance with their more domesticated brethren. The civilized Indians regard them with a horror that only cannibalism can Inspire , and only at long intervals have the white residents of Peru seen or captured nny of these remarkable savages. The fiercest of the Chunchos are the Antes and the Cas- clbos , who range the forests where the pre cious Peruvian hark Is found , and who fight each other In thp hopes of securing prison ers for a cannibalistic orgle. Dut there Is a queer cede In their savage law. They make no effort to seize women for their feasts. The very degradation of the sex Is In a way Its preservation. The male Ante or Casclbo regards n woman ns an Impure being. She Is a comfort , though she accepts her Blmro of duty , and n cannibal brave would well nigh perish of starvation before he would pollute his lips with femaln flesh. Not only IB a w6mnn thus desplhod , but her blood IB feared as a poison , from the taste of which o man roulil recover. The cannibal women profess no such distaste for man's IleBh , hut are said to eat It with relish , while In their own turn they have evidently taken no active steps to convince the men against their onelent error and prejudice. Saving the protection she receives from this strange superstition , the cannibal woman enjoys slight benefits ns far as any explorers in eastern Peru have been nblo to (1ml ( out. She cultivates the ground a little , looks after the children , and cur iously enough , In Borne of 'these ' tribes poly gamy Is forbidden. Whether this IB duo or not to feminine- Influence nobody hus yet hud the pluck or luck to find out. When In bccluslon In her forest homo the cannibal woman wears n rough cloth gar ment , falling to the knees from the hips , beads nntl heavy necklaces that suspicion and sonio reliable evidence say are composed chiefly of polished bits of human bone , and on gain occasions , car and nose buttons , with plentiful bedaubing of paint , make up the tollot. There Is no effort at a coiffure , and the accompanying picture of a cannibal hello shows over the upper lip , under the eyes and across the cheeks and chin , how thu paint Is laid on. In certain arts these fierce women nro eminently skilled. They prepare the poisons for tipping the arrows used by the men In war and for smearing the heavy clubs em ployed In the buslnesa of finishing oil nn unemy when brought to his knees. Among the civilized Indians the belief Is that no virulent nro these poisons that where they touch the broken skin the wounded person dies within a row moments. So far as Investigation has been pursued the cannibal Indians have always recognized the prop erties of the canc-irllla bark. The women In cases of fever use nn Infusion of H drawn from the green bark , which Is after nil regarded as more promptly efllcacious than thi white quinine powder that civil ized chemistry extracts from the same source. HAWAII'S niiMsin sovnuniax. Knrly Ufiof the i\-dutM-ii D.-dill.-d l > y u Si-hoolKlrl Frlrint. Llko many other royal personages , Lllluokalanl was not "born to the purple , " but became a queen through accident , so to speak , and It WBH not until Kalnkaua be came king that Lllluokulnnl was known by that long name , literally Lydla of the heavens , hut simply as Lydla Pakl. H was as Lydla Pnkl that she grew up In Honolulu lulu and It was by that name that Bho was married to John 0. DomlnlH. When her brother ascended the thione she become a. princess and blossomed Into the royal Lllluokalanl. When the writer first know Lydla Pnkl It was when both worn scholars at the royal school of Honolulu. The children of all the foreigners as the white residents were then called were sent to that school. It being , In fact , the only ono worthy of the name In existence In Hawaii at the time. Lydla was not a particularly bright scholar , but she did manage to keep up with her class. She showed a special aptitude , however , for miiBlc , playing both the piano and guitar , and singing In n rather weak , sweet voice. In later yeors she composed some waltzI-H , national airs , etc. , but they tiavc little merit as musical compositions. Lydla went to school In considerable state , being taken there each day In n nun 11 open cart drawn by two natives. The cart was low with four wheeln. a seat In thi back held two people , while n polo ex tended In front , on either sldo ofhtch walked the men who drew the carl. In pacing It niny ho paid that throi' eartw were In coneral use for these who eould nffoiil "to Ui'er their own tarrlago , " fur fi'w. It nny. horses hail boon broKen to lurnoax , al though there wore plenty for riding , lie- hind thU ve'hldo a native no mint walked , holding an umbrella over Lydla' * he.ul. The cart WOH left Mamllng In the n-hool yard nil dn > , thu n-rvnnlK colnis bnek to town , returning In I IIP afternoon. AH most of the BcholarH walked to school , up a hot , dusty. Bhadelcvit road from the town r > r down an i Dually hot. dusty. Mijuleli-ss road from the vnllov. they wore greatly Impressed by this "cnrrlnc " It S B during J'akl's llfe''nif tli.it LyJU'i ymutg brother Jaino * went on a vislr to the neighboring lfil.mil of Maul where ho died , the news of hli donth being brought to Honolulu during the night Immediately Iho "walling" began , n most unearthly sound by which the native * express both joy ami norrow , thour who Know the different shadea nf rxproixlon kajliK they ran distinguish between the two "walls. " but to a foreigner who flrtt hears thin fearful nolso when just nvvakenlng from sleep in the mlddlo of the night , there U tomrthlng terrifying In the hOUllJ. For n chlof the witling Is louder and moro prolonged than for n common native , and j lh < higher the rank the louder the \oU'e : vml the greater the number who take part i In U The sound Is something like A-we > - c-e-c-e-e , with a sort of a tremolo on ra h t - pronounced aall be'ng uttered in a piercing voice with a note of despair cr ' horror occasionally put Inwhere It will ' make the mot' . ffet i In accordance with the na'ive rj * ? m at | i ONE TRIAL BOTTLE THIS Ol-TKK ALMOST SURPASSES BHLIIJ1' , An [ xternal Ionic Applied to the Skin Beautifies It As by ftiarjic. OF A WOMAN WAS THE 1NVIJXTOR. Thousands have tried from time Immem orial to discover 301110 elllcaclous remedy for wrinkles and other Imperfections of the complexion , but none had yit suc ceeded until the Misses Dull , the now fam ous Complexion Specialists , of 78 Fifth avenue , New York City , offered the pub lic their wonderful Complexion Tonic. The reason BO tunny fulled to make tills discovery before Is plain , because they have not followed the right principle. Halms , Creams , Lotions , etc. , never have n tonic effect upon the akin , hence the failures. The Hisses Dell's Complexion Tonic has a most exhilarating effect upon the cuticle , absorbing mid carrying off nil Impurities which the blood by Its natural action Is constantly forcing to the suifaco of thu Eklu. It is to the skin what a vitalizing tonic Is to the blood ami nerves , a kind of uew life that Immediately exhilarates and strengthens wherever npplied. Its tonic effect IB felt almost Immediately , and It speedily banishes forever fiom the skin , freckles , plmplca , blackheads , moth patches , wrinkles , liver upots , roughness , olllness , eruptions and discoloiatlons of nny kind. In order that nil may be benefited by their Orcat Discovery , the Missus Doll will , during the present month , give to all call- l era at their parlora one trial bottle of their Complexion Tonic absolutely free ; and In order that these who cannot call or who llvo away from New York niny bo bene fited , they will send ono bottle to any ad dress , all charges prepaid , on the receipt of 25 cents ( stamps or silver ) to cover cost of packing and delivering. The price of this wonderful tonic Is Jl.OO per bottle , and this liberal offer should be embraced by all. The Misses Dell have Junt published their new boon , "Secrets of Deauty. " This valuable work la free to all desiring It. The book treats exhaustively of the Importance of a good complexion ; tells how a woman may acquire beauty and keep It. Special chapters on the care of the hair : how to have luxuriant growth ; harmless methods of making the hair pre serve Its natural beauty aud color , even to advanced age. Also Instructions how to banish superfluous hair from the face , neck and arms without Injury to the sxln. This book will bo mailed to nny address on request. FREE Trial Dottles of Wonderful Com plexion Tonic free at parlors , or 25 cents ( cost of packing and mailing ) to those at a dlotauce. Correspondence cordially solicited. Ad dress THE MISSES BilA , 78 Fifth AVC , . N w York City. The MldncM Hot I'M Complexion Tonic , Complexion Simp , Skin Fooil nml De- lillo arc fur Nlile by nil la , she had her huad shaved and her front Uelh filed In points. Half mourning per haps It should bo said , for the really proper thing would have been to have had her cyo tcelh knocked out. Thanks lo Pnkl's In- lluonco nnd nulhorlty her mourning did not extend to that dlsflgurcmenl. She was away from school for about a week , her return be ing anxiously looked for by her companions , who felt there was something weird , fan tastic nnd mysterious about such ceremonies. When she returned to school she were a thick black lace veil on her head which suc cessfully concealed her lack of hair , and her front teeth soon grew , or rather were off , even. Then the time came when Lydla became engaged lo John 0. Domlnls , the "only Bon of his mother and she was a widow. " Or It was supposed that she was a widow. YenrR before her husband had sailed awny from Honolulu to some south Pacific Island , and was never heard of , And yet although ro ninny years had passed , Mrs. Domlnls never gave up the belief thut her huabaud would ono day return. This engagement was not at nil to the liking of Mrs. Uomlnls. John's mother. She was a woman who should have lived In a amall New England village , for her horizon never enlarged from what it was when ajiu left that small village to go lo Honolulu. A notable housekeeper , blio kept her largo house filled with boarders , but she was a meddlesome gossip , whoso bitter tongue caused unhapplneas to many. To expect her to accept Lydla as a welcome daughter- in-law was out of the question , In fact , there was little expectation of much happi ness In Lydla's raarrlngo by those who know the facts , for not only was there thn antagonism of thu mothcr-ln-law , but John Domlnls himself had been badly brought up , ho was Inclined even then lo be dlHSlpatul , and ho had associated with the natives until ho had Imbibed some of their worst traits. Dy "natives" in this sense la meant the common , uneducated people , whoso Influ ence , and whoso low morality , made them until companions for joung persons of either sex. After Lydln'B marriage cho went to re- sldo with Mrs. Honilnls , and the usual -e- aulL of trying to mix two totally distinct InillvldunlB obtained. As a girl , the characteristics attributed to Lydla by her political enemlrh wt-ro not prominent ; on the contrary , It would seem that she was nf a timid , modjst , retiring disposition. Dlgnltled , jcs , for all the Hawaiian * possess dignity in n great de- grio. but ambitious , scheming , obstinate , cruel , certainly no traces of such traits of character were ever seen , and It U illflli ult for the Intimate friends of her youth to realize or believe all tlio unpleasant things said of her politically and personally. Surely , with but few friends loyal to her In recent years , with her throne and kingdom forever lost to her , the last of her family , she has suffered bitterly whether Innocent or guilty. wn.Minuri i , oi.ii IADIIS. > ! > ! nil \Vlio I.IMMI i.'nr , . , , , | ( Viilurj. U Is an acknowledged fact that women more often attain a very great ago than rnun. Among women , ono of the most famous centenarians was the countess of Desmond , who died In the reign of James I from the effects of an accident. Her reputed age was 113 jears. This wonderful old lady at Ihe ago of 100 yearn was so lively and well that she actually took part In a dance ; find only fl\o years before her death she traveled from Drlstol to London a tremendous Jour ney In these days In order to pcrsonallj attend to some business matters. Lady Desmond's fame as a centenarian pinks into nothing compared with that of n Frenchwoman of the nauio of .Mario Prlon. who died In St. Colombo at the ag # of TO years. Toward the end of her life she sub- listed entirely on goal's milk and cheese , and. although her body was so shrunk and wasted that she weighed only forty-six pounds , * be retained her mental faculties to the last. It Is a curious fact , but some women have been known to enter a second youth when most of their fellows ille hair and teerh Lome again and sight and hearing once more bctomo sharp unj qui > k \ certain rrarq < o dc Miratnau is an example of this She died at S tut scrae years l fcre her 3emro her wh ! e appearance changed so ttut the lc"k l crr'alrly cc1 mere than CO Th-3 sa'jih'rs hsjr ei to a nun of the nojnc of Margjcrl'e VerJ.r who at the agi > 1111111111 in 11 in mi iii i in in i tn 111111111111111 r.'i 111 HE in it flre Von Going < ist ? i Jf ion are letting for ft mm fur la Me trip , mi r rounded by * maL tMlftlitful wenm , 111 going lo ! Se * lorb , IlilU- < 1t ! | hU , or w * Li > re jniiDU , jou nunti do btlr thta Ui H LEH'IGH VALLEY { KAIUUOA.D 5 from IlufTkla rr Vhesra I'tlli rutwtrj. 3 lb roul It through * rttfli u < f UNRIVALLUD SCI2NUKY = In * ItiJlnn liinU > M < \illrjft , mountain hrtght * , ruiMnc rHcri anj ] > | . , l.l Jtkti Thm U lU rout * cf tb * IJLACK DIAMOND HXPKUSS * ! Wlnrrn liufTftlu rul "WH WL , Mil * WpbU tlie . li > n < t < inirl train tn ttc M < > rM * All through day traltti utrj diulug &ari wrTto " MUALSa la CARTG. : S For IHuBlrftlv I , ! fHptU Ix Vi on IM * rout * , or Inform * - linn A lotlkiof firr , tl , wtiil.njt > a Irwii , witli f < njr troll i fi luiUni | , tul'hn * . . I.C1- . ! . > ' ! , Autnl. N w Vtlk. J Use and Facial Soap Facial Cream Woodbury f. l-'ai-lul Soap , Kiirlnl Cream , Facial nml Tooth I'owdiM luiMi the ImloiHu- nient of the Mcillcal and iJentul I'rotVsslon. .Sold everj where. gained her Hlght and grew several new teeth. I'rlllN Ol I'Mkllloll. Kntlro gowns of heavy black-knotted Bilk , with deep fringed edges , are In vogue for evening weai. 'Ihty look best mailo over a foundation of black fntln. The Uuchcss of Devonshire haU sllll flood the market these turned up nt an aeuto angle on ono side and in a downward curve on the other. Among the most generally becoming colors of the season before us will bn the damenn rtvea end a varied class of Blmllar plum tints , llko dahlia , petunia , etc. v-o k'b-cuiab red ib thu newest Bliade of the color. Serge and cloth jackctx , and oven dresses. In ihls blatant hue are among Hie new things In autumn modes. Tim chief characteristic of fashion's prepent show Is its Infinite varlelv. Its modified and graceful designs and outlines , and endless stjles , t Homing un unlimited choice of models tmltcd lo any peculiarity of form , face or feature. Among the useful little additions to the toilet are close coat ulieves of thin silk , made to clip tn under the transparent sleeves proper of blouses urnl olher hoi- weather waists. When the day IH cooler than usual these adjustable undersleoveH glvo the needed protection lesa easily sup plied to the arms thun about Ihe neck and shoulders. Very smart thP-e-rjuarters length water proof coats corno In white or In pain tan shudss for women who are fond of handling the whip and reins. They have ventilated yokes ormmcntoil with stitching , and , aa a rule , doublbrea3te l fastening. Thcsu coats are made with comfnnablv full sleeves , finished at the hand with a cuff formed of a banj with a strap , which can be drawn close in cuso of a downpour of rain. A new tennis thee , which Is ulso most comfoitable for tramping or ctllnK , Is made or patent leather or glace kid , or In Un. black or green canvas with a very low heel and sole of holld rubber. A cornforl- ublc strap acrobs the Instep keeps It on and at Urn same time leaves Ihe ankle absolutely free Tor general wear Ihe buttoned boot , to authorities my. will supersede rho laced hoc for winter wear. This , how over , Is al most ulwajs a matter of Individual taste. Tto Failor hat of U''S Is a faithful copy of the rough straw shapes worn by men. U has a lower and less oblong crown than the sailer huts tf o year ago , and there U no "short-back" eflcct , for tbc brlrn Is of ona width all around , affording no great protec tion for the face , and us a rule not Improv ing In Us Hppcurance , as It has lee narrow a slraw aureole for the majority of heads and fares It cannot by any process of rea soning bo called "dressy ' but It Is neat and practical and no other Htylo of hat , for certain uses can take Its place Forne rf tbo dainty ham Clock dresses and easy gowns worn on sultry day * this veaion ore made of dattea and flowered Swiss mus lin , pink , blue , or cream batiste , or soft urdrc caed mull * Many of thesn drnsiet have slightly drooping blouse fronti. neatly