I.- r I ' ( .1(1 (
MIE OMAHA DAILY BEE : SUXDAY , ATJCHTST 28 , 1808.
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IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. w
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' 4 P I I
FASHION SIGNS.
Iiullcntlon * of ( lie Trend of
A 11 < It in n
NEW YOIIK , AUK 2C. Thla Is the tlmo
of the year when every new garment a well
dressed woman uears IB significant of the
future , and September signs' arc In the air.
lly hoxt week all the buyers will bo crowdIng -
Ing Lqtno from Paris , telling talcs of every
fresh enterprise In woolen clothes , coats I
and hats , etc. fivcn now there Is a revival j
of custom ami Interest all along llio counters '
of the big , shops , , and In Uip watercolor
' (
nkctches , 'that the buyers always' send on
before } them from Parl ? ' , < .most Interesting
fortunes Ui finery can bo 'told. J ookjnfj over
a dozen nf _ these pretty pictures any one
would prd'mptly catcli trie suggestion that
fringes and fichus will he nmqng 'the- most !
well defined features of autumnal splendor. |
Kvenlng and , calling gowns and tailor suits |
all display some phase or another of that
graceful shoulder drapery that folds ker-
chlefwlse over the bust.
A Protean Kn nil Inn ,
This Is n diversion of fashion In which
women stout nnd thin can alike participate
and with equal advantage , nnd the recalling
of the fichu to Its old-time honorable estate
IB an excellent means of bringing Into evi
dence flno old laces and embroidered muslin
that has been worked by hand In a distant
and more artistic day.
On evening dresses the fichu Is quite
Protean In Its variety of shades. It may be
a scarf of precious old lace drawn rather
close about n corsage cut low , that Is , after
the court model , on the shoulders anil knot
ting In , a soft bow on the bust , or1 It can
bo a ritretch of Liberty silk , drawn .up nnd
fastened on fho'left"Bho lder wltri Jeweled
pins. Women who' possess pretty sloping
Bhouldem loveto wear a > small three-cor-
ncrci ) bt | , drawn rather close and the ends
knotted , small at the waist line , while one of
genprous"proporHons prc'fers the fichu .that
floats In front , long and frea from the
ehouldcr line.
As a matter of fact , by n. discreet use of
the flchu a woman can give her figure just
what lines and proportions she needs. By
drawing 'it taut or letting it fall full , she
can conceal or reveal nil she pleases , and
for this reason the flchu frontIs unfailingly
noted on , nlnorout. . o f ten of the autumn
models In 'cloth. The fronts of such suits
are for a sjendqr woman made full on the
Klioufdcr , or' under the arm they cross In
suave llho.and fold over the bust , high up
or low down , In order to reveal beneath the
chin a rounded or pointed , vest of some soft
contrasting goods. Occasionally ono side of
this drapery passes down to the left hip and
ffom there lets fall a long and a short
eash end upon the skirt.
The Cravat Flchu.
Equally ns pleasing Is the tiny cravat
flchu that Is adopted with the wonderfql ,
nnd hitherto unseen striped cloths for winter
and autumn wear. Fancy , If you con , a
wlno red cloth , finely barred In black satin
stripes. The waist of this buttons up well
over the bust , but springs open on the chest
In two small rcvcrs. They disclose an Inner
vest .of Ducked silk , a , high collar of white
ellk tops"olt the basque--lMit to takeaway
from any severity of line , a kerchief of bls-
cult-colpred lace , edging a Wisp of similarly
cblorfd allk JoSvn , passes about th'e neck ,
under the rovers and knots artistically on
tie ( bust , Iqttlng a couple of lace ends , pf
uneven , lengths fall even below the waist
line.
* On a certain percentage of cloth suits '
flat-shape"d ° "flfchu piece's will' fold down from"
tbo shoulder. Thcso will bo overlaid with
lace on whlto satin , be made wholly ot
embroidered silk , or ot the plain cloth It-
Belt bordered with a slk | fringe. One end'
carried far down and low under tho. arm
Will' faStc'ri there with three largo'flno but
tons nnd the V-shaped space they leave
open under the chin will JjQ ornamented In
'
divers 'ways.
Are CoiiHnlcuon * .
Once launched on autumn topics It Is cs-
tiontlal to-Rlvo some- recognition of the laces
that on vests and the debus of day gowns ,
and In the trimming ot evening costumes ,
will bo more than over conspicuous for the
next six months. To begin at the be
ginning , biscuit tint Is the choice for the
approaching season If new lace Is worn.
This Is a soft , rosy cream tone that har
monizes dellolously with all the latest gas
light colors. There Is also old lace color ,
but this so often degenerates Into a tone of
Ulrty .tea brcAvn 'that the first mentioned
dye Is' preferred.
10 spite of the charms of the over lovely
point do Venice , a species of pretty cut
out point Is guaranteed to achieve a line
place for Itself and the waved antique
Valenciennes and Valenciennes Incrustation
Is4 going to predominate on the toilets for
debutantes. There Is also a new applique
lace called ruby point , * which In reality Is
atpalo Ivory ecru In tone. Ruby p'olnt rs
xyorkcil In ns heavy pattern 'ns Russian or
Renaissance loco,5 while nn attractive' but *
rdtlier startling variety c.'f i weave Is , a cbarse
bla k , ecru or biscuit colored riot , adorned
In' a'j Persian pattern , carried out exclusively-
in [ dull gold nnd silver thread. Orient
veiling ono hears If nominated , and for a
While It Is sure Jo maintain ia right royal
potion , for only .a llttlo has been 1m-
p rted , and that commands 'a prlco c'xcluslvs
to 'all ' of moderate means. Oriental veiling
la. easily imitated In cheap net nnd gilt , and
tonco ; it will fall , when vulgarized , ( rom
*
ltar high estato.
) i 1'all Fanthcr * .
iThose who are reading signs and wonders
cm , the new horizon of fashion will not fall
to observe a few first millinery indications ,
of 'a ' degree ot .Importance. For Instance , it
dbes not take great perspicacity to decide
that feathers will get a big share of fall
patronage. Whether complete stuffed fowls
are * olng to bo sacrificed again to feminine
vanity ono dares not yet say , but fans of
etlft feathers will adorn the big new toquei ,
This denotes that it Is the spreading tall ,
cot the wing 'lot tbo bird , 'that is wanted
nnd" plumage , handsomely marked with eyes
end1 spots , Is the most desired.
rAs never before In point of pe.rfect tint
and firm or ragged shape are they , making
leaves for adorhlnc the first bats of
IMPERIAL HAIR
: REGENERATOR
' o matter what tliiJ color or J
'
condition of your HAIR
Btroaky , BLEACHED or
GHA.Y it can bo made beau
tiful , clossv and natural by ono appli
cation of THE IMPERIAL HAITI KE-
GENERATOR. It is a'oan ' , odorless ,
lasting , ( lees not contain an atom of poi
sonous matter. Baths do not nlToct It ;
neither does curling nor crimping. ' In-
comparablu for the liKARD on account
of Its ulounlinoaVand durability. Sovou
colons cover all Hlmdof , Prlco , J1.5C
and $3.00.
Bole Manufacturers nnd Patentees ,
Imperial Chemical M t'g Co. , 292 fifth Ave
N. V Kor sale l'i Omatm by lllclmrdsor
Co. , Hlicrninn & McConnell , 161 !
tit. Applied by ull hair dressers.
the season , made of satin Btrnw nnd chenille.
Nothing could be more promising than the
Indications for the dcml-scason hat , and the
milliners who can gauge their patrons' op-
pctlto for pretty surprises nro garnishing
round brown nnd red nnd rusty green mixed
hats with ribbon and tufts of golden rod ,
A green September bat made for one who
will go coaching In the Berkshire hills was
of a shada of chenille and straw known as
hay green. Its crown stood an Inch and a
fourth high nnd the two-Inch wide brim
sloped down from It. All about the crown
ran a.full girdle ot Michaelmas daisies with
rnaplo leaves , half turned from a dull green
Into scarlet.
There Is n promise that later on , when
headgear becomes n , really serious consider
ation with' every woman , popular taste will
he Invited to whet Its appetite for novelty
blue silk violets , set on In a double row ,
A soft knot of thcno blossoms held the
flchu In pjfico on the shoulder and the
wearer of the pretty drapery clasped her
'neck with a dog collar of corals and blue
crystal Venetian beads.
The fichu for a stouter woman nnd for
wear indoors is given In another figure.
This big kerchief falls over the shoulders
of a tea Jacket made of whlto Madeira em
broidery over rose color. Of the simplest
whlto Hrussels net the flchu Itself Is made
and frilled with net. Along the frill run
three rows of black velvet beho ribbon and
three rosettes of this ribbon fasten the
flchu on either side to the Jacket.
A black figured grenadine , made over
whlto silk linings , Is the material of the
third model. Hero the close drawn kerchief
Is of white Limousine silk edged with black
on a hat material known as camel's hair
felt. The specimens seen so far show a
pretty quality of rather rough surfaced felt ,
In the appropriate dull colors , having a long ,
silvery wool nap springing from It. In
Paris , baying done long ago with the wide
hat and the forward pitch of the brim ,
they are placing small capotes very far 05
the back of the head. Whether wo will
allow this initiative remains to bo seen ,
Lnte Summer ViiKnrle .
For full three weeks yet , In spite of
.Utumn preparations , the light sheath of
umraer garments will not be shed nnd still
.nterestlng ore some of the diversities In
h'hlte clothes. Duck and serge skirts , far
nstance , nro wearing their pockets any
where but on the hips and inside the front
.vidths. . Two square catch-alls , with flaps
hat button down , are frankly sewed on the
rent part of the skirt , within handy reach J
if the wearer's right and left hands , and
nto these she puts her belongings easily
nd cbmfortably. The promise of the talloro
s that wool walking sklrtg for autumn and
winter shall bo made with the same regard
o convenience and that none of those
iklrts shall have a gather or a pleat tbo
whole waist band around. A novel'pattern
Jt-eosy and graceful shape is promised and
hereby a great thanksgiving goes up from
ho feminine heart.
Another demonstration has been made in
.ho hand-wrought shirt waist nnd a novel
pattern has been evolved that wo will carry
right on Into the winter wardrobes. Thla
atest manifestation Is tucked perpendicu
larly from neck band to waist line. Jn
groups of small tucks , especially when the
shirt is of silk , and not by a couple of
Inches , do the fronts of the garment meet.
They open to reveal a straight vest piece , of
whatever In a contrasting goods or color
you may elect to make it. A white silk
shirt , or a black one for that matter , will
open prettily upon a vest of pale green.or
turquoise blue silk , or white tucked lawn.
Instead of the shirt fronts lying wide open ,
on either edge , nt intervals of three inches ,
buttonholes ore worked and by new link
studs the front are held firm but open , at
certain points of the vest.
Thus has n new species of shirt waist
given rise to a new type of shirt stud and
the makers of such ornaments are turning
out , moro or less widely linked , studs , set
with moonstones In silver , opals , cat's eyes ,
and star sapphires. The cuffs of these
shirts are not contrarywlso held by link bub-
tons , too , but the sleeves fall In slightly to
wrist bands that are wide , soft nnd clasp
the wrists closely. By three buttons sewed
on to > ach band and three llken loops the
cuffs are made fast. Of course the six but
tons required for this purpose are often
pretty cabocbon Jewels with gold shanks.
IlluatrnUoim of Fnnblonii.
The three most adaptable types ot flchu
to gowni that by a touch can be brought
Into Una with the prevailing mode accom
pany the text this week. One of these ker
chief draperies Is especially designed for
the furbishing up of an evening gown for.a
young woman , The model from which , the
drawing was made displayed a close fitting ,
low-necked body of blue
pcau-do-solo and
over the shoulder was flung a handkerchief
of the palest lavender Liberty ilk , cdgeO
with a deep flounce ot the same. All aboul
I the verge of the flounce rjn ; a thick ruck ol
lace , and a high black satin collar with
lace ear tips completes the pretty deml--
season tollqt. . . . ,
Simple school suits for yoirng people .are
not difficult to find at this moment "when
the tailors and dressmakers for boys'and '
girls are as busy as bees. See , for example - ,
ample , the five young persons whoso , wants
are so thoroughly considered in the group.
The 15-year-old girl wears a basket cloth
suit of wood brown. The skirt Is'plalti , tfio
waist has a tucked yoke with nil. Itstfront
fullness caught In by a broad belt of dark
red silk. Her zouave Jacket Is edged with
red leather appliques,1 stitched on , and a
collar similarly trimmed turns over her
red silk throat band.
The second miss displays a kilted skirt of
green French .cloth worn with a darker
green pleated waist of corduroy. Over the
corduroy pleats extend traceries of tan
colored silk needlework and a wide tan
cather belt clasps her waist. The sleeves
nro ot cloth and high green cloth legglns
mtton over the laced shoes.
Two studies In small boys' coats and a
cloth school suit , as shown In the picture ,
can hardly fall to give Ideas to the tnqulr-
ng maternal mind. Both ot the coats are
of whip-cord of winter weight and the suit
Is a finely striped winter tweed worn with a
( tout llttlo green flannel clilrt.
MARY DBAN.
N WILIinLMINA.
The Youthful SnvrrrlKtt Monti to Co mo
Into Ilrr Inheritance ,
Queen Wllhclmlna of Holland , the simple ,
girlish figure on whom the roseate glow of
budding womanhood has Just begun to cast
Its strengthening rays , Is about to assume
the responsibilities of the throne. She at
tains her legal majority 17 years on the
31st , and is to bo enthroned September 6.
The fortnight of festivities that will attend
the queen's inauguration wilt rival the gala
days ot the czar's coronation BR\C that effort
will bo made to preclude the fatal results
which attended that flushed and gorgeous
ceremony. There Is a murmur of dissatis
faction from the upper classes ot Holland
that so much of the program will bo gUcn
up to tbo entertainment of the masses , but
the controlling ministerial policy has pointed
that way , nnd the queen regent nnd her
daughter have willingly followed.
The Dutch government will exhaust its
ability In lavishing honor on Its young queen ,
and It has ordered home from Java all the
Jewels In the treasury that have been taken
from the rajahs and native rulers of that
vast Island , In order to make for her a
crown , a scepter and an orb. Among them
arc some of the most splendid Jewels In the
world.
Though the seclusion ot the court lias
kept the young queen carefully guarded ,
nevcrtheles her youth anil unostentatious
ways bavo kept her very close to the hearts
of i-e Dutch people , and there Is scarcely
a nation in Eurouo whos/j loyalty Is morj '
truly the result of sincere personal nltcc-
tlon for Iho monarchical Jioad. Queen Wll- ,
helmlna has been trained to the duties ot n
tynlcal Dutch housewife , and this knowl
edge was gained In a little house of her
own , where she used to pla'y and In which
she did all of the housework herself. Her
portrait In the national costume of a Dutch
housewife , with a linen colf.ovijr her head ,
jr-t
SMART FICHUS.
has alwars ' been a favorjto nmone her plc-
, tures-
The ijueen receives a liberal allowance
from the1 state treasury , bUt aside from that
she Is a rich heiress. King William I , who
was a great success commercially , amassed
a big private , fortune. , and this was enlarged
by his successors. Besides , the house ot
Pracuo has always known how to Invest Its
money to Rood advantage.
j Queen Wllhclmlna surely has not been
neglected by fortune. She has youth , good
health , hi ah spirits , great wealth and a con
tented , easily governed people. She has
several calaces and country houses , and ,
although they are not the most magnificent
1 In Europe , they are well endowed with elegance -
ganco and comfort.
I The largest of these palaces is the mas
sive Town Hall In Amsterdam , which was
built In tbo sixteenth century , and presented
in 1SOS to King Louis Bonaparte as a royal
residence. Externally its , appearance Is not
palatial , but it Is sumptuously furnished and
I beautifully decorated. The great reception
room la truly magnificent , with a roof 100
1 feet from the floor , walls of white marble
and a generous array of splendid sculpture.
The mural decorations of the two dining
rooms nnd the tea rooms are elaborate. The
throughout the rmlncn nro by
Dutch nustprn , nnd nil thn decorations nro
rich In color. In the royal npnrtments nnd
wnltlni ; rooms there ro heavy silk IIAIIR-
Ingn , ftumptuoiu furniture of the First Km-
plrc , dellcato Italian morale cabinets , rich
service of Sevres nnd beautiful statuary. The
palace on the Hague Is small and unpreten
tious , having been designed as the residence
ot ouo of the early Stndtholdcrs. It has com
fortable , well furnished apartments for the
loyal household and the walls nro lined with
family portraits , but there are no spacious
rooms for court ceremonies.
The court , while not lacking In dignity
and distinction , Is conspicuous for simplicity.
Because of this it was not dimcult for the
radical ministers to convince the qnccn re
gent nnd the queen , that the ceremony of
Inauguration , to take place on September 6 ,
would bo moro advisable and practicable
than that of a coronation In what Islrtu -
nlly a Dutch republic. There is no ecclesi
astical dignitary In Holland who Is consid
ered eligible to the office of bestowing the
crown nnd anointing the queen. The queen
could not receive the crown from the queen
regent nor the prime minister. She could
only crown herself , following the example
of one or two European sovereigns who had
no ecclesiastical dignitaries to fall hack
upon , and this would not bo a procedure
either in harmony with Dutch precedents
or the temper of the people. The coronation
is consequently out of the question , and the
republican ceremony of taking the onth of
office has been substituted. The oath Is as
follows : "I swear to the1 Dutch people that
I will observe nnd always maintain the con
stitution. I swear that I will defend nnd
guard with all my power the Independence
nnd the territory of the empire , that I will
protect public and private liberty and the
rights of all my subjects , and that I will
use every means confided In me by the law
to foster-and uphold the-national nnd Indi
vidual well bc-lng ns a good queen should do.
And may God help me. "
( JOLT IiiTS. )
DrnlRUN for the
Kind of Fniicy Work.
Now that the girls have assiduously
pricked their fingers at making kltbpgs for
the departed soldier boys , they are turning
their attention to the needs of those at
home , and almost every man fortunate
enough to be in the good graces of some
fair lady is having made for him a golf
belt. Thcso are , Indeed , the very latest
thfngs that Delight the eye on the golf field.
The golf belt has followed In the wake of
the golf waistcoat that was worn a season
ago and upon which It Is an Improvement.
U Is not so clumsy and still has all the
style and elves the same touch of color to
tbo costume that the waistcoats were de
sirable for dolnc. To make them Is very
simple and done quickly , being the broadest
kind of worsted work.
The measurement of the waist for whom
the belt is Intended must first be token.
Then a zone Is cut of the dimensions out
of canvas , such as Is generally used for
Oiling In slippers In cross stitch. Usually
the zone is fashioned wth | a point at the
top and bottom of the front only , although
there Is also a fancy for making two points
at the top to one at the bottom of the bolt.
It Is cut to Ins a llttlo and fastens at the
side , Afcr the belt Is properly shaped and
cilt It Is stamped crosswise with parallel
lines , not quite half an Inch apart. A j
heavy Roman silk Is then taken and long
stitches are made from ono of the lines to
the ono opposite , working at right angles
to the stamping and so that the canvas Is
well covered.
When the filling { n with silk Is done ,
strips of stiff paper Uro cut to cover the
Bilk , and are held In place while they are
worked over with long stitches of double
zephyr worsted in exactly the same "manner
as the silk has been done. The working of
the belt Is then complete , excepting for
what Is called the cutting nnd fluffing. With
|
a sharp pair of scissors the lines ofr ' i
are cut through the middle from tb <
to the bottom of the belt. The use of . .ic
paper then becomes apparent , as It prevents
the sclssoro from going through Into the
under layer of silk. The two halves of thn
worsted lines that are thrown up together
by the cutting are ruffed up by the points
'of the scissors until they form a compact ,
high ridge , while the silk appears on each
fde as a ground work. The finer the mesh
of the canvas that Is used , In consistence
with getting the worsted through , the mere
body the ridge of worsted will have , and In
consequence will bo the prettier.
Two colors are always used for these
belts , that of the Bilk being much lighter
than the worsted. Red nnd whlto make a
beautiful belt , or maize yellow and brown.
The belts have three whale bones stitched
on the wrong side ot the front to secure
the points from rolling up , and they are
lined throughout with silk to match ono of
the shades that has been used. A cairngorm
germ or nament fastens the belt at the side ,
nnd adds the finishing touch In "making It
i extremely odd nnd pretty. All true golfers
' are glad to boast the possession of ( such a
'belt.
WELL POSTED ON POLITICS.
Senator Plntt'u Wife a Great Help to
Her Adroit Huibntid.
More than ono prominent politician In
New York state Is of the opinion that with
out the help of Ills wife Senator Platt would
never have reached his present position as
supreme dictator of the republican politics
in New York state. Tall , of regal carriage ,
and with a patrician air , Mrs. Platt looks
the grande dame to perfection. Her luxu
riant hair Is almost white , but no ono would
' for a moment say that Mrs. Platt Is an old
woman. Her bright , clear eyes and pinky
ON13
TRIAL BOTTLE
THIS OFFISH ALMOST SURPASSES BELIEF ,
An External Tonic Applied to the
Beautifies It As by Magic.
OF
A WOMAN WAS THE INVENTOR.
Thousands have tried from time immem
orial to discover some elllcacloua remedy
for wrinkles and other imperfections of
the complexion , but none had ytt suc
ceeded until the Misses Hell , the now fnm-
oua Complexion Specialists , ot 73 Fifth
avenue , Now York City , offered the pub
lic their wonderful Complexion Tonic.
The reason so many failed to make this
discovery before Is plain , because they have
not followed ithu right ' 'principle. Dalms ,
Creams , Lotions , etc. , never have a tonic
effect upon the skin , hence the failures.
The Misses Dell's Complexion Tonic has
a most exhilarating effect upon the cuticle ,
absorbing nnd carrying off all impurities
Which the blood by' ' its natural action Is
constantly forcing to the surface ot the
skin. It Is to the skin what a vitalizing
tonic Is to the blood and nerves , a kind ot
new life that Immediately exhilarates and
strengthens wherever applied. Its tonic
effect Is felt almost Immediately , and It
cpeedlly banishes forever from the skin ,
freckles , pimples , blackheads , moth patches ,
wrinkles , liver spots , roughness , olllness ,
eruptions and decelerations of any kind.
In order that nil may be benefited by
their Or cat Discovery , Hie Missus Bell will ,
during the present mouth , give to nil call-
AUTUMN SCHOOL CLOTHES.
ere nt their parlors ono trial bottle of thelf
Complexion Tonic absolutely free ; and In
order that those who cannot call or who
live away from New York may bo bcno
fltcd , they will send ono bottle to any ad
dress , nil charges prepaid , on the receipt of
25 cents ( stamps or silver ) to cover cost ot
packing nnd delivering. The priceot this
wonderful tonic Is 11.00 per bottle , anil
this liberal offer should be embraced by all.
The Misses Bell have just published
their now book , "Secrets of Beauty. "
This valuable work Is free to all desiring
It. The book treats exhaustively of the
Importance of a good complexion ; tolls
how a woman may acquire beauty nnd
keep It. Special chapters on the cnro of
the hair : how to have luxuriant giowth ;
harmless methods of making the hair pro *
servo Its natural beauty and color , even to
advanced nge. Also Instructions how to
banish superfluous hair from the face ,
neck and arms without Injury to the suln.
This book will bo mailed to any address cm
request.
FREE Trlril nettles of Wonderful Com
plexion Tonic free nt parlors , or 25 cents
( cost of packing and mailing ) to those at a
distance.
Correspondence cordially solicited. Ad
dress
THE MISS.ES , BaLL , 78 ' AVC , , NOW York city.
The-Minion Ilell'i Complexion Tunic , Complexion Sonp , SUlii Food nnd Do-
ullo are ( or nale by all
complexion soon set such an Idea at rest.
Mrs. Plutt baa just reached the nutumn
stage of life , where her Influence and ac
tivity are most felt. She has been a help
mate to her distinguished husband for many
years , and In victory and defeat she has
never faltcrpd or failed to encourage him.
It Is said thAt she knows the politics of the
state and nation thoroughly and has certain
unerring Instincts. Intuitions , or , bettor still ,
thoglttoffBwift , deductive reasoning , which
leaps "ahea.it..ot the inductions of her hus
band. . Ono thlngliis sure , the , senator has
never been handicapped by his handsome
spouse- , but , on the contrary , ho has always
found bar equal Jn mental grasp and gcner-
ous sympathy to any emergency. Her days
are devoted to her husband and her grand
children , and while she moves In society she
wastes little \\rno \ \ In tin dc sleclc frivolities ,
Like her husband , she is fond of the drama
and thos-opera nnd Is.of . ten seen at the
theater.
IIOYAL WOSIIJX WHO SMOKE.
A Huamlnn Edict parties the Oraml
UiimoN of Europe.
As unexpectedly ns a "bolt from the bluo' *
came the sad tidings , promulgated a few
days ago m court circles at St. Petersburg ,
that thtf gentle and gracious tzarltza would
to greatly obliged to the ladles of > her
household If , for the future , they would
forbear from smoking cigarettes In her
presence.
This unlooked-for Intimation , reaching
the Russian "dames ct demoiselles d'hon-
nenr" from BO exalted n quarter , was un
avoidably accepted by them as a command ,
and they have summoned up courage to
address a humble petition to her majesty ,
entreating her to revoke a request 'that '
practically Is a decree. In this prayerful
document , ' says the London Telegraph , they
have ventured to remind Alexandra Feodor-
ovua that ladles nro permitted to smoke
cigarettes nt all the continental courts ; that ,
among tlio august female vptarles of the
narcotic herb , born In the purple , arc the
dowager tzarltza and her sister , ' tho'Prln-
cess Thyra , duchess of Cumberland , as well
as the Princess Henry of Prussia , born
Princess Irene of Hesse and the Rhine , own
sister to the reigning empress of all the
Russlas. The petition also deferentially
points out that the Austrian kalserln and
1 queen of Hungary , Maria Christina , queen
j regent of Spain , "Carmen Sylva , " queen of
Roumanla , and the queen ot Portugal , as
1 well ns many grand duchesses , archduch
esses and princesses of the blood , nro In
veterate smokers.
In this category , moreover , belonged
though the Russian court ladles may not
bo aware of the fact Iho lovely and In
trepid former queen of Naples , Marie von
Wlttolsbach , who took an active part In
the defense of ( laeta , wearing the undress
uniform ot one of her husband's crack Infantry -
fantry regiments , nnd especially when
under fire was rarely seen without a
lighted cigar between her lips. Her younger
sister , the countess of Tranl , was a no less
habitual clgnr smoker than she , and so was
the countess ot Glrgcntl , by birth an In
fanta of Spain. As for the "society lead
ers" and "grandes dames do par lo mondo"
In Russia , Germany , Austria-Hungary ,
Italy , Spain , and even in the realm of
Britannia Orutidy , their name is legion. In
the Turkish harem smoking Is oven moro
"de rlgeur" than In the eelamllk , for the
wives nnd daughters of the well-to-do
faithful have few recreations besides in
haling the fumes of yellow "JcnldJIe , " or
"klrltschtllar , " and nibbling what , In the
states , Is gencrlcally termed "swcet-
trUck , " a designation Impartially applied
to "candy , " "pralines , " "fondus" ana
"rahat lakoum. "
Feminine I'crHonaln.
Mrs. Florence Craven , who is , next to Mies
Nightingale , the oldest trained nurse In
England , cherishes among her decoratlonu
the Iron Cross , the order ot merit presented
by William I of Germany.
The duchess of Aosta , daughter of the Into
Prlnco Jeiomo Napoleon , Is making dally
balloon ascents nt Arco , In the 'Austrian '
Tyrol , and Is such an enthusiast In the sport
that she pronounces it "tbo most suitable
for high society. "
Mrs. Flora Annlo Steel , the English writer
of several serious and highly praised novels ,
has opened a new field for discussion by de
claring , just as our soldier boys nro return
ing for a season of hero worship , that the
girl who marries for love Is by no means
necessarily better than the girl who marries
for money or position.
Mrs. Albert Dowker , for twenty-two years
president of the Woman's Hoard of Missions ,
who died at her home In Massachusetts re
cently , had two foreign buildings named
after her Dowker hall in Bombay , nn
American mission Rchool with moro than 100
pupils , and Bowkcr hall , one of the two
largo buildings of the American College for
Girls in Constantinople.
Mine. Melba Is a good aarswoman and she
loves no place In which to reveal her skill
moro than the upper reaches of the Thames.
She is well known by the riverside , both
nboyo and below Marlowe , and may almost
any day bo seen skimming the water in her
trim-built wherry. Sometimes , however , she
prefers a punt to a boat. Her headquarters
are a pleasant houseboat moored just off
Mnrlowo.
"Gyp , " the spicy French novelist , whosa
real name is the Comtcsso do Marter , la a
familiar figure in the Bols do Boulogne ,
where she is often seen seated on her auto
mobile. She seems to ride rather for pleas
ure than to see bow fast she can go , and
nobody can accuse her of making any at
tempt ot costume , for she Is still known
as the most eccentric dresser In Parjs ,
clinging to alapaca and poke bonnets.
There are no slow coaches among the
women of Las Cruces , N. M. They run the
town. Four years ago the Woman's Improve ,
rnent society of Las Cruccs was organized ,
with Mrs , Mary S. McFlo as president. Al
though the town numbered 3,000 Inhabitants ,
there wasn't a hearse in the place. The
first thing that the women did was to buy
ono and let It for funerals at a moderate
prlco. They didn't take any undue advan
tage of their patrons , but all the same the
hcnrsn proved a paying Investment. Tbey
have bought ground for a public park ,
fenced It and planted trees and shrubbery
and are now accumulating money to erect a
town ball and public library building.
When Queen Taltou , the wife ot the Negus
Menclek , conqueror of the Itallsn troops in
Abyssinia , arrives with her husband and
dusky but brilliant escort In Paris next
month oven the gay Parisian will no doubt
marvel. "Queen Taltou Is no less Interest
ing that her hueband. When she appears
In public sbo la accompanied by many
women , mounted on richly caparisoned
mules , with bunncrv , umbrella bearers nd
other attendants , " Bays the Philadelphia ,
Post. "Tnltou's umbrella Is a bright red.
She Is very stout , but withal her prescnco
U dignified. She la remarkably -well In
formed on current topics and la a charming
conversationalist. Her letters are well writ
ten and have a bright , natural style- , She
does not dress any more richly than her
ladles In waiting , but no Is. the very es
sence of cleanliness. The empress believes
thoroughly In court etiquette and no one
may gaze on her unless bo baa been formally
presented to her , "
Wichita , Kan , , has tbo distinction of hav
ing as a citizen a dresumaker who 'it a. .
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