18 THE OMAHA DAILY BEIfc SUNDAY , MARCII 13 , 1898.
IN THF. DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
, m.oniKiin HATS.
tJrllllnnt ItnrMnnrpm of Hie Approach.
tiiMT Splendor * of Kn trr.
NEW YORK , March 10. Rich and rare ,
at least In appearance , are the gems we
are going to wear with almost Oriental lavIshness -
Ishness for the next six months at least.
In fact , itwould require very deft word-
patntlng to set before any reader's eyes a
faint Idea even of the splendors of the new
est belts and buckles , buttons and bag tops ,
hatpins and chains that are all prepared to
deck maids and matrons as effectively aa
Solomon in all his glory. Suffice It , how
ever , here to boldly state that many of the
chains brought out for the spring trade are
shorter than before , and consist , of .pearls ,
with emerald or turquolso beads , strung so
close together that the glided or ellvcred
thread which holds them Is scarcely visible ,
The bag tops , of trench gilt or gun metal ,
are pierced to resemble ctruscan work , and
net very artfully with round , Imperfect bits
of turquoise , malechlto , chalcedony , jasper
and the like in order that the effect of an
tiquity may be the more closely slmllated.
The belts meanwhile are utterly given
over to the craze for camcce. The large
front clasp of a smart girdle Is formed of
two antique heads cut In high rcllof and
framed In gold , while the waist Is circled
by a row of smaller heads alternating with
what aio called roman emeralds , cut thin
and round , with many facets Now and
then belts are seen In Imitation of the
beautiful and expensive florentlno mosaic
work , or the buckles are dull gold or silver
disks on which mcduca heads are artfully
hammered out In low relief. Hut whatever
the motif of the belt may bo , Jeweled set
tings Invariably play a prominent part , and
not less fashionable than the girdles just
described are frlaro cords , of elastic gold
or silver , meant to pos twice about the
waist , letting fall two knotted ends , In exact
imitation ot the rcpo girdles the barefoot
monks wear.
SU.MMCU FANS.
Just hero a word may be said concerning
the last evolution In fans that have giown
HO small that nothing but their prices pos
sesses any dignity. A fan four and one-half
Inches long Is a pretty onu ot the apecles
called Empire and now In undisputed vogue.
The prettiest of these are made entirely
from Ivory , the sticks , thin as cardbsard , be
ing held together by ribbon lacing , the
lower half of the Ivory wedges pierced by
most delicate carving and the upper half
exquisitely painted. Such a fan Is worn
hanging from a string of mock pearls wound
several times about the neck.
Less costly , but most charming , are the
cauro trlflrs , no larger than the above dc-
Hcrlbed , their sticks and mounting pondered
ES closely as pcsslblo with brilliant spangles ,
set on In no fixed pattern. Still another
type , but these only suitable for the heavy
purse , are from tip to tip richly carved pink ,
or mother of pearl.The carving Is done
by Japanese to .exploit goddesses of mercy
and love and lotus lion era and tiny jewels
arc set In the goddesses' eyes and hair and
oil the petals of the lilies.
Hat pins , worthy of special notd , show
on the ends of their long sharp prongs vlo-
, lets and daisies and other Innocents of the
meadows and hedge rows made of an ad-
nilrablo composition and certainly unusually
appropriate for the skewering on of rose
wiealhed leghorns , chips , etc. Another
novelty Is the pin topped by a miniature
cluster of chcrrlca , currants , or ono big
strawberry , a very petite pumpkin , or a
cabbage head. These last are among the
' imported novelties. They tell us also , on
good authority , that when the nun comes
nearer to the earth , In the Inevitable sum
mer solstice , whlto net veils covered almost
wholly witli appliques , of black lace and
black net masques , overlaid with whlto fig
ures , will bo the most modish details of the
toilet.
Ho that as It may , Just now , when veils
ere worn , and it Id apparent that women
are as far aa possible trying to do away
with them , squares ot line black tulle
trimmed with three rows ot narrow colored
ribbon , shirred oa as a border , have the flrst
place In feminine estimation. The simpler
types of dotted note in bluck are as well
largely patronized , while for outing hata
whlto chiffon gauze , sprinkled at Intervals
with tiny black chenille dote , or plain chif
fen gauze showing a broad colored Bilk oil-
vago will bo the most popular sun protcctorn ,
nillDAL COSTUMES.
A trip about the shops glvca convincing
proof that the ) Easter brides ot IS'JS are goIng -
Ing to dress for the ultar exclusively in
Batln of a deep cream tint and splendidly
figured in brocaded clusters ot oatrlch
feathers. The brocading is done In blue
whlto and on the regular Jersey cream tone
of the catln thU brings considerable effect
of color Into the chosen bridal fabric. An
other law concerning the marriage toilet Is
that if you cannot afford to 'trim ' your wed
ding dross with lace have It splendidly plain.
Another amendment recently added to the
constitution governing -the costuming of
bildes , etc. . Is the great Importance of
trimming ( ho hair with u lofty garniture of
showy ciitrlch plum . All the pre-Lenten
brides had their heads dressed almost pre
cisely aa for a presentation at the court of
St. Junies. Knormoia feathers were used
and the veil of < ullo or lace flowed back In
a short drapery on to the train. Another
novelty In nuptial attlro U the brlde'a chate
laine , and the now custom Is for < ho mother
to fasten It at her daughter's waist the mo
ment before ohe leaves her homo to drive to
the church. The chatclalno Is formed o ! ti
largo gold or silver pin or a mount that
hooktf Into the drcfa belt , and from this , by
narrow white oatln ribbons , hangs n thimble ,
ft jialr cf scissors , a whlto leather r.ml gold
ncexllo book , n whlto silk and silver emery
ami u couple of silver reels wound with
whlto cottpn and white silk.
STOCKS AND SKIRTS.
A poem of Interesting dlmeralcns might
etuilly bo written on the now spring stock
of ellk petticoats , f o burning are their colors ,
so varied f nd artistic thslr trimming. All of
them are not , however , made of silk. The
costliest , stlffeet satin has been tested and
found to be the most economical long-wearing
underskirt In the market , and theae and
their fellows are cut exactly on the pattein
ot the top skirt. For Instance , they are mak
ing ot black aatln a garment that la comet
over and petticoat lo one. This Is a perfect
prlnccrs Ellp , cad it Is apt to hook up under
one arm or lace up behind. Slim women
wear theae In whlto and pale tinted satin
of an evening , havlug only a tow whalebones
Introduced into the waUt ot the prlncr&s
Up and putting aside coca eta entirely.
Lavishly trimmed petticoat * are one and
all deeply flounced. The flounce I * either of
silk , accordeon plaited and ojgcd with a
puffing of chiffon , or Is merely the deep godet
bottom of the skirt itself. Occasionally , for
very delicate wear , deep frills ot embroid
ered chirr en Is act on the bottom , finished
In scallops , to resemble rose petals. On the
taffeta eklrts every variety of faoclful tdra
ining ] e employed. Square * are tucked , edged
with narrow lace aod applied ; lace it laid
on , tbo silk beneath cut out and satin of a
contraatlng shade la used and one ot tbo pret.
tlest and most serviceable ways ot trimming
a eklrt to to set on two deep and very fult
flounce * ot black or white ellk Tcaca net ,
running two rows of baby ribbon along the
cdgo of every flounce.
Night dressed of flue French batiste deco
rated with pretty pink and blue dot * or tprlgs
are among the seasonable novelties in under
wear , and theae are garnished with ruffle *
ot brightly colored wash ribbcca. A trainIng -
Ing after effect la mtde with the empire
nightgowns laid In accordion pleats from bust
to foot. A yoke ot delicate embroidery Is
uaed , but the wonder I * that a laundress
live * who will patiently every time press
thoao countless pleata Into place. A * with
the outer garments , the tucking U now elI
I paramount Importance oa all underwear ,
.whether of silk or natasook. The more
numerous and threadlike ta width the tuck *
I are the nearer the goal of perfection U approached
preached , and U I * no longer an oddity to &
! * wrlnkl4 U waoU war * M . frw
tfc * to ta * jwul0rt. u U IwrimUl I
tin flounces similarly decorateJ their tatlre
width.
Moussollno brllllantc Is one of the new
fabrics fir trimming , and U well north pub.
llo approval * To describe It accurately ,
Imagine a crisp chiffon gauze rtlth a high
nllkcn luster. For draping on evening
bodices It has Its chief value , and yards of
pretty flouncing In this material are sold ,
every Inch of tbo fluting of course edged
wth puffings of the same. The lace for
this ncassn , so far as any lace has yet been
chcfien , Is yellow cherry , and all the lace
appllquca made up In shapes of jackets ,
bands , shoulder straps , flounce headings ,
etc. , are of course Venetian cr renaissance.
Interwoven with colored chenille. That j
which Is not tucked Is bound to be shirred
or smocked. This Is a rule so far not
broken by an exception. Tew theater waists
are made ot chiffon merely drawn over silk ,
for the light gauze Is either laid on In one
flhlrrlng lying FO close to another that the
threads are not seen , else the Elizabeth
shirring la used. In the latter Instance
two gathering threads are worked In close
together , then a epace of an inch Intervenes ,
when two moro are drawn through the
goods.
PRETTY PINAFORES.
Llttlo maids who go to school are wearing
moat coquettish plnaforce that dwiervc some
description. They ore made of nainsook
and dotted muslin and dimity and French j
batiste , and they are trimmed with a deal
of taoto. Of the thico nmall women on tl-c ,
bench In the picture the first wears a plna-
fore of the crlspest dotted swigs , this
tlmo In polo pink awl&i , picked out
In scarlet dots , and around the open neck _
of the garment runs a scarlet ribbon , that
Urn , to let float , long streamers In the roar.
The second HUlo scholar wears a white cam-
brie apronJlcr ; wldo ahoullor s'traps , edged
with , whlto embroidery , aud iiluo ribbons ,
running through embroidered .eyeleVo at bust
and waist. The < h1rd child displays .1 sky
blue dimity'overall , with deep collar flounce , '
falling back on the shoulders from a vest
formed ot strlra of embroidery over the
dimity. Broad easlies tie' behind , and the
short sleeves have tholr puffs edged with
embroidery ! |
In a vciy short while thn awful question
of the Easter bonnet will occupy every I
femlnlno mind so entirely that a few premonitory - , '
monitory hints will not be likely to fill on
stony ground this week. The trade for Eas
ter Is already unfolding Itself In the backa
of milliners' shops , and the now outing
hata are of particular Interest. I
Tha sallora , with rare cxccptJor-E.'are rough
light weight atraws. their crown 4ops
( . lightly sunken and their crown bands are
leather straps and bucklco , clbo plaid rib
bons. There Is no downing the Alpine , but
the example given this week shows the
best method of trimming this liirdy bloomer.
Hero wo have u. whlto Alpine with a roll-
edged brim -that is woven , not forced to
turn up on ono side very high. A big black
satin rosette , cdgqd with a pufllng of black
chiffon , the center held with a round steel
ornament , occupies the pest ot honor , and
aloft spring two sclmctar shaped 'black
qutlla studded with otccl spangles. A roll
of black satin encircles the crown.
ILLUSTRATED DESIGNS.
In the large group the. toque , numbered 1 ,
Is of gray straw gauze powdered with black
spangles and turned up on the side with
black and whlto plumes , caught with a
buckle In the form of a skeleton diamond
ami set with steel "beads.
No. 2 Is a mixed red and brown Swlso
straw , garnished with a roll and a lurgo
forward bow of Jacqueminot red silk ,
fastened by a buckle of brllllanta , while
along the opposite brim flow two cavalier
plunica of mettled brown and whlto.
.No. 3 shown how roses are now being
piled up for spring wear. The hat's founda
tion Is a brim of green straw and a crown
of wire , on which the flowers , roses varying
from palest pink to rut'tlest ' red , ore net In
solid phalanx , with a tuft of foliage sprout
ing from the apex of the flora ) heap.
No. 4 Is the noweat theater bonnet , a tiny
cap of net encrusted with black palettes.
Directly on the fore part of this minute
platform is fastened tt wheel of brllllar.ta ,
from which syrlng wired wings of blask
lace.
lace.No.
No. 5 represents a bonnet for a matron ,
showing how prettily a bunch or cowslips
can bo used at the knotting ot strings be
neath the chin. From a plateau of
cpangled-stlffened net the tuft of plumes and
tbo algretto rise , while the yellow cowslips
are set forward and aft ot tills dainty craft.
No. C affords a moro philanthropic phase
of the theater bonnet , an Innocuous thing
no playgoer In the rear of It could possibly ob
ject to. For this the foundation , pinned
to the hair. Is ot white milliners' crinoline
overlaid with spangled lace. To ono Bide
Is set a tuft of tiny turquoUo blue ostrich
tlpe , while to the left Is tautened a long bow
of violet colored velvet ribbon , tbo whole
length ot which runs an arrow of white
eteol. Although this bonnet , and It l no
uncommon shape , I * pinned by it * founda
tion to the hair , a high heavy comb Is thrust
behind , to glvo additional security and a
touch of elaboration the scant head dress
seems to need. iM. DAVIS.
Found Atnonur the Iinontorn of Inlior-
Notwithstanding the widely diffused belief
that a womun Is neither practical nor yet
posfesaed of Inventive skill , the fact re
mains that a large number of labor-saving
Inventions , as well as the luxuries ot civ
ilization , may bo credited to her.
The Chinese Empress Tao , who probably
had the mild , submissive manners , the meek ,
patient fuce with long , narrow eyes and the
poor little crippled feet of tbo Chinese
women , worked out some far-reaching ideas
in her busy bruin and Invented the spinning
of silk , never dreaming of the Immense In
dustry that would grow from her creation.
Surely both Franco and the United States
might well set up a memorial In gratitude
for the revenues that have come through
the spinning of silk.
Another woman ot Asia , evidently of
luxurious taste , discovered or Invented the
I attar of roses , and It was this same woman ,
Mhearal Mini , who Invented that wonderful
J product of Ingenious handicraft- the cash-
f mere shawl. History ly silent as to "tier
I end , and lor uught that la known to the
well-paying , ai & < $ [ as a fascinating occupa
tion , i
The lncrcafleltv , ( ] < , woman's tabor and the
opening of a .woccupations to her have
aroused a gooOnu.ot opposition In the labor
journals recently , Chough the Medico-Legal
Journal eays jUiatl their objections are not
well taken , asjibo. ncreasc In mala labor in
mechanics slncn.'U80 ! 4,076,003 , and In
females only l,2Cij&4. There are now female
Inventors , plluta , pallors , boat women , canal
women , locon tlve ong'aeers , painters ,
plumbers , printer.machinists , gold nnd sil
ver workers , lirAtadnl workers , wagonmak-
ors , Iron and-aUcl workers , stonemasons ,
moulders , nail'wd tack makers , plasterers ,
bollermakcr * . foofeVs , slaters , tool , cutlery ,
steve and furnaVo 'makers. ' It Is stated on
good authorityttaa't there are nearly four
million self-supporting women in the United
Stated alone.
JIM \xn-s WOMAN srv.
necelved n Communion , from Lincoln
Sllll J.UeA In Olilo.
In ono of the apartmentn at the National
Wcrcun's llellef Corps dome , In Madison , O. ,
lleo Elizabeth W. Stllea , aged 82 yeara , who
recently submitted to a very severe curglcol
operation , from which the attending phy
sicians gave no liopo that she would recover ,
yet there Is every indication that the won-
djorful powers' of endurance which have
served her well In former years will bring
' the old woman through her present hardship.
' When 21 years old , relates the Cincinnati
1 Enquirer , the young woman went to Chicago -
cage and earned her own living until 1810 ,
when cho married Jacob Stiles , and thirteen
years subsequent they took up thclrv resi
dence In Shawneetown , Kan. , where they
made for themselves a nice , comfortable
home.
Heco Mro. Stiles realized her flrat sorrow
by ttio death ot hiir husband , who was shot
down at his own gate In October , 1862 , by a
band of guerrillas who hod dragged him
THREE LITTLE MAIDS AT SCHOOL.
contrary oho may havei died In a suttee , but
the Immense rovenucu that have arUen nnd
grown from the cashmere shawl and the-
attar of rcscs are almost past csmputlng.
The women who are kept from starvation
by the making of pillow lace have reuspn
to bless the name of Barbara Uttmann of
Saxony.
Wood engraving was cHscovereet by'tho
Cunio sli'ters ' , two young' Italhn jglrla , and
it was the widow " * of General .Nathaniel
Grceno who ir.ude the uggeBtlon of the cot
ton gin , which was perfected by E'll Whit
ney. The grandmother of Clara Louiao
Kellogg Invented an attachment to the ma
chinery In looms In mills , anj It was an
other woman , whose Tier\co had probably
been racked by the evil bho sought to rem
edy , that set her Inventlvo genius at work
and wrought out a device for deadening the
nolso of railway tralra. A Miss Knight Invented -
vented the paper bag and straightway men
and women wondered why no simple a thing
had never been thought of before.
Mine. Do Long Invented metal-cutting ma-
chlnery. which has been used In France for
eomo time. This machinery Is worked by
steam , and from the solid metal cuts out
gates and other architectural work without
casting. Mmo. Do. Lonz has cut plates
of brass a foot thick into lattice work at a
single operation ; she has also made picture
flames , crests , lace pins , etc. , turning them
out of the metal fully finished , every opera
tion being performed by the steam-driven
machinery. She flrst conceived the.Idea of
her wonderful apparatus over twenty years
ago , when a paralysis ot the right arm com
pelled her to glvo up her trade of jewel
worker. She has received many gold medals
from the different Paris expositions In recog
nition of her services to art "and Industry ,
and the flrst laureate crown ever offered tea
a woman has been bestowed upon Mme. Do
Lens by the Society of French Architects
In Patls.
Butter-making machines have been in
vented by wcmcn , and numerous arrange
ments tor fire escapes , aJl more or less In
genious. A spark arrester for locomotives ,
a rotary loom , a screw crank for steamships ,
an ere smelter , a chain elevator and a borsc-
shcclng machine are only a few among the
many inventions made by women , and these
Inventions have placed moro of the comforts
of lite within reach ot the poorest , and have
added largely to the world's producing
power for the greatest good to the greatest
numtwr.
Now that the passion for Klondike roving
Is stirring In the breasts ot many women ,
It Is Interesting to recall the success of ono
woman In the gold fields. Mrs. Uarnston
Parnell , who has worked for over forty years
In the Australian gold diggings and has won
fame and fortune for herself as an essayist ,
Is a brilliant refutation of the statement that
women are failures as miners. She dis
covered the secret of treating ore before
roasting It , so that as much gold as brown-
otono could bo obtained from it , and In this
way she has Imitated the workings of na
ture so well that abandoned mines are being
opened and results obtained with chemical
aid that hundreds of years of slow develop-
nient would hardly produce.
Now Mrs. Patacll Intends to found a col
lege in England to train women for work
In the mining regions , and believes that their
condcltntloucuess and carefulness will make
them Invaluable as mining engineers , mana
ge , clerks anl bookkeepers. The studies to
be pursued at the college are metallurgy ,
chemistry , bookkeeping and mental arith
metic , and one year , It Is thought , will uufflce
for a thorough knowledge ot them.
Mra. Parnell has patented her invention ,
and Intends to eet the plant In operation
very eocn , o that women will find a new and
I from dls bed to tmfrdor him before her eyes
I becnuso ho had sworn allegiance to the catno
of Ihe union.-Tfili ? took place after mid
night. The rebels came'drcrsod In the blue
garb of union /'sildiers / ' , .100 In the bind ,
directed by thMffamous guerrilla chieftain
QuantrelU . . , rf ' - * \ (
lrjiStlleaM < J-ipt. jret retired , and , being
deceived bjrtlfcflroojot "of the uniforms , oho
Very readily " yfml tl. . the i7i < uvj\ho corai
pellcd iIr.'S.f"iplo-1get : up and go out of the
house. As fixpvm'ifl's body sank to ttio
ground \vlth ma'ny bulJet holes In It ono of
the nssatslno leveled a revolver at Mrs.
Stiles , who stood , horror'dcken , on thu
parch. A he w.aa about , to shoot Quantrell
stopped him with a threat to ehoot dim It
ho' molested the woman. Mrs. Stiles was
allowed to re-cntor her house and for U-at
tlmo was not further molested , but there
after she woo subjected to so many menacing
actlccis from these opposed to the cause o ?
the nccth that she finally decided that longer
resilience there would be unsafe , and went
ts Fort Leavenworttoiwlth her adopted chil
dren under escort ot a band of soldiers.
The cause ot this unusual persecution was
that it was known Ibat Mrs. Stiles had done
some detective work for Uacle Sam , but
i how extensive her work In that line had
> , been waa not even surmised. Her antipathy
for secerslonlsts wca greatly Increased by
the murder of her husband and she vowed
to devote her llfo to revenge. Having been
on several llttlo expeditions for the good of
the union cause , she had become .somewhat
known by army leaders \vfjo had learned that
the woman was a trusty ally and Dad scut
her uamo to headquarters. She had been
at the fort but a short time when she re
ceived a letter from Gsneral Lane , asking
her to come to Washington. This letter waa
ale slgneU by Abraham Lincoln.
Scr.ator Mervln of-Missouri and a company
of about seventy-five others were preparing
for an early start for the capital and Mrs.
Stilus accompanied them. Upn presentifig
hcreel T to General Lane she was Informed
that dor future- services were ( Ifsired as a
opy. and t io accepted the proposition gladly.
Ueforo engaging at her new duties she re
turned to Loavopworth for her children ,
whom she took back to Washington , the
tedious Journey consuming several months'
time. She placed two children In school In
Washington , and , taking the other child , a
girl of 12 , wllft her , she reported ready for
service , and was on almost constant duty
thereafter until the clcso ot the rebellion ,
dur'tig whlh tlmo she did good work In
nlnotc-ec different states ; aod Canada , the
daughter , Clara , accompanying her on most
of her cxpelltloco.
Mrs. Stiles was personally acquainted with
nearly all of the noted generals ot that time ,
as her service .brought her under their di
rection. She treasures among her keep
sakes a letter of recommendation written
and signed by Abraham Lincoln.
The brive woman faced death many times ,
and her coolness on such occasions , and tact
and ability for meeting necessary require
ments on all occasions , proved the secret of
her success as a spy.
She llkca to tell how she "hoodwinked" a
rebel general on one occasion when she was
arrested and chart 3 J with 'being a spy. It ?
was at Jefferson C ty.Mo. . Her horse was
taken from her she was escorted to Gen-
era ! Price for to whom she
confceied to bol > & i spy , but eo well posted
was eho on tbo cral state of affairs that
she succeeded < ii , | iklng the general believe
that she was a ) . nVe ) " spy , and she not only
went free , buttWgiv n a better horse and
firearm * and fgn S00 ber way >
One dark nl Afhen Mra. Stiles and her
daughter wcro out on a lonjr rld on the
Kansas-Missouri border , the daughter fell
asleep on her horse ( not an uncommon occur
rence ) , and didn't know when a sentry
grasped the brldlo of her mother's horse
and attempted to arrest her. The girl was
awakened by a pistol shot , and her mother
was soon beside her , but there was a vacancy
in the picket line.
The old lady relates with pride how eho
once directed the capture of a cannon , with
only her husband and daughters to assist
her , and secured the prize that several bauds
of men had tried for unsuccessfully.
An Illustration of the unjust persecution
which thta woman was subjected to during
her residence in Shawneetown Is shown In
the event of a holiday when she was teaching
school. Together with a teacher In an ad
joining district she planned to glvo the
children a picnic , and before leaving town
her scholars marched around the liberty polo
In the village green , carrying the stars and
atrlpcs. They then went to the woods , not
far out , where they were ecarccly settled
for the day's sport when a man rode up ,
handed Mrs. Stiles a note and departed
without a word. The note Informed her
that If she allowed her scholars to repeat
the liberty pole parade with the union flag
eho might expect a treat ot tar and feath
ers. Such was the uaturo ot the element
in which she lived.
In the Incidents of her travels It not In
frequently became necessary for her to
dress the wounds ot soao unlucky "blue-
coat. " And even amputations ot a minor
nattiro liavo fallen to her lot in cases ot
emergency. The woman's mind Is not at
all dimmed by her fourscore yeara and her
recollections of names and dates is some
thing remarkable.
After the close of the war she took up
her residence in Venango county , Pennsyl
vania , where she continued to make her
homo Until within the past two years , when
she entered the Woman's llellef Corps home.
Mrs. Stiles was never wounded and could
never bo induced to ask , for a pension until
a few weeks ago when she made application
to the government for redreea for the amount
ot her loss when she was obliged to sacrifice
everything she possessed In Shawneetown
Tllinil nODYCUAKIl.
Itli'liVonnn Surroiiiiilcil lt > i n ll t of
Formerly , when the world was young , u
lady's maid who had graduated from nn
Knglinh ducal establishment or a French
chateau could ehod quite radiance enough
upon the social oncer at any grand lady
and prove an open ecsame to the world whl.-ii
has money to burn.
Then , In time , a private secretary was
added to one's ( louRchold and the radiance
and the splendor grew.
Now , however , things are quite different
and among jour personal p&ssessslons , which
you keep ntar you wtibu at homo and whcti
you travel carry with > ou like your lug
gage , you tnust number. In addition to the
ir.ald and the secretary , a physician In
regular standing and a Frccch profecsor.
Thus It haa been decreed by the queens
of American society that , IlEo the queens
who truly sit upon thrcaea , holding sccptera
In ll'ielr hands , they must be surrounded by
a bodyguard. Queen Victoria has her two
Hajt Indian attendant- picturesque dress ,
who are constantly within call , and Con-
suclo , duchess .of MarlbctQUgh , boa an end
less number of vessels , but only ooe con
stant attendant , the Nubian boy picked up
on her travels. But it Is In America that
the now fashion originates In "Washington ,
with Mrs. W Ettastiouse. This woman llvts
In as much npUndor and grat'deur ' as a
crowned ( 'iMd , who. ludeed , has crowni
( iccself , and to lend , should any stray queen
como a-borrowlng.
Mrs. Wcstlnghouse's entertainments are
the wonder of Washington , a-id all the ap
pointments of her establishment are upon
ii rsralo of almost barbaric magnificence. She
diner ; upon nothing less costly than gold and
crimson Y vct , nor w irs anything lew
splendid than satin and point lace. She haa
n rottiuo of thirty servants and a body
guard numbering four Individuals , When
-her cottrt moves from-ono p laco-4o'another ,
let cane who will or go who mayi my lord
the rfiyslclan. his honor the French pro-
terror , the private secretary and the French
maid are always within call.
Mrs. George Jay Gould l another woman
with a whim for personal vassals. She
hears a sccrstary , French and Gorn-an maids ,
a nurse for each of the four young Goulds ,
and last , but most Important , a trained
mtrso.-wlth a diploma , the kind welch re
ceived $25 a week and all expense * paid.
She Is employed ai the commander-ln-chlef
of * ho nursH-y army , Ibat there may be
skilled knowledge al\va > s at hand , but her
olflco Is almost sinecure , an the Gould chil
dren are a remarkably healthy lot.
When the Goulds sailed away to foreign
shores last summer nineteen scrvltcrs fol
lowed In their wake.
Trained nurses are luxuries which thrive
in the Gould families. Miss Helen Gould
always keeps one near her , who , except to a
few Intlmato friends , passes as her secre
tary. Miss Gould's health U never of the mcst
robust , and * she la obliged to guard It care
fully. Other Important members of this
young millionairess' bodyguard are the two
detectives who guard her residence.
Tramp , tramp , tramp , all night long , from
sunset to sunrise , the men patrol the place.
This Is at "Lyndhurst , " IrvlnBton-on-Hud-
son. Guests who pay visits Ir the flrst
tlmo are warned In advance not to be alarmed
at the ceaseless tramp. When the establish
ment moves to towu , as was the case this
winter for the flrst tlmo since the death
of her parents , the detectives como hero on
guard , and when Miss Gould travels they
form part of her suite. She Is petite and
unassuming and quietly dressed , and no one
would ever dream from her appearance
when In the street that she wcro worth a
thousand dollars , cay , much less millions
upon millions , yet she hardly knows what
freedom of movement is , for she never ven
tures out of doom unaccompanied ,
The Elbrldge f , Gerrys , other members of
the royal American family , who might very
properly employ a bodyguard , do not In
dulge In the luxury , beyond a private secre
tary or a valet or two and two French rcnlda.
Their menage numbers thirty-five servants ,
of whom all are Welsh , except the two
maids ; and It Is said that the Gerrys are
bettor served than any other family In Amer
ica. The virtues of the Welsh , man or
woman , as servitors , have never been ex
ploited to any great extent , although a num
ber of New York families employ this na
tionality and say that they thus secure per
fect service. No Intelligence office supplies
thcso servants , but they can be procured
through a society connected with the Welsh
church.
Apropos to the Gerry establishment , the
master and mistress are quite considerate
ot their servants ; Sundays , the horses and
the grooms and the coachmen have a day of
rest , for If a carriage Is needed one Is hired.
So well ordered Is the household that at
any moment any one of tbo four Gerry
homes Is ready for occupancy , either In
NetfrYork , Newport , Staataburg or Delhi.
Wo always look upon Mrs. Aetor aa the
queen of American society , and her royal
bearing today , in aplte ot her years , Is the
beat evidence of her right to Ihe title which
( Continued co Nineteenth Page. )
j
For Woman's Health
Mrs. Colonel Hamilton , of Columbus. Recom.
mends Pe-ru-na to all Women who Suffer
From any Catarrhal Trouble.
Or , Hartman Defines Women's Diseases
The Mystery Surrounding the Ills of Women. Clear Theory and
Convincing Testimony. Forty Years of Success.
Letters From Other Women.
Mr § . ARTHUR L. HAMILTON ,
309 Wett First Avenue , Columbuf , O.
Dr. S. B. Hartman , Columbus , O.
* Dear Sir : lean bear testimony as to the merits of your remedyt
Pe-ru-na. I have been taking the same for some time , and am enjoying
better health now than I have for some years. I attribute the change
to Pe rn-na , and recommend Pe-ru-na to every iboman , believing it to
be especially beneficial to them. Mrs. A. L. Hamilton.
The ills of women are mysterious ; they are called by many names.
Some women suffer constantly , others periodically ; some slightly ,
others severely. Few , indeed , are entirely welL Treatment of these
troubles of women 'is seldom correct because their
origin and their nature is not understood.
The mucpus membrane lines every organ of
the body ; wherever it is inflamed there is ,
catarrh. If the congestion is in the head , nose
or throat , we have catarrh there ; if in the lungs ,
it is consumption ; in the kidneys , Bright's dis
ease ; and catarrh of the pelvic organs is the
bane of many a woman's life.
Dr. Hartman has been successfully combating MrsDOUOHERTT. .
and driving out catarrh for forty years. His treat
ment leaves people healthy. This is because it
works in harmony with nature and docs not
oppose it anywhere.
The remedy used by Dr. Hartman for all
phases of catarrh is Pc-ru-na. Its action on
the nerves makes the membranes healthy.
Pc-ru-na is harmless. It is a great tonic and
has a peerless record of success. KAKOLINA
SUTER , of 2138 Vine St. , Cincinnati , O. , writes :
Dr. S. B. HARTVUN , Columbus , O.
KAROLINA SUTER. Dtar Sir : "It has been about two years since I fall on the le * .
At flrst I did not think that I had hurt myself ; but several month *
after I felt pains In the abdomen , and a little later my menses
failed to appear. I wrote to you in regard to It , hearing that you
cured female trouble * , and followed your directions. I took
Po-ru-na and Man-n-Hn. I had not walked for two years. I now
have good health. I have advlud others to write you for advice. "
Mrs. MARGARETH FRITZ , of Wilcox , Okla.says :
PE-RU-HA DRUO Mro. Co. , Columbus , O.
Dtar Sin : "I extend my sincere thanks for the good advice yon
have given me. I do not believe I would be living now if it were not
for you. I had suffered with * flow of blood for four months , and i
the doctors could help mo but little. They operated on me three time * .
It w i very painful , and I only obtained little relief. 1 was so weak I Itrt. M. DAUBCN.
could not turn In bed. Then I applied to Dr. Hartman. I did not know
whether ha could help ma or not , but I followed his advice and only tiled three bottles of
Pe-ru-oa and lian-a-lio. Now I am well and as strong 01 1 ever was , thanks to your remedies. "
Women anticipate the Change of Life with much misgiving. Mrs.
M. DAUDEN tells them how to protect themselves. /
Dr. S. B. RARTUAN , Columbus , o.
Diar Sir. Ifeelio wetland good and happy now that pen cannot
describe It. Pe.ru-na Is everything to me. I fetl healthy ao4
well , but If I should be sick I will know what to take. I have taken
several bottles of Pe-rti.na for female complaint. I am In the )
Change ot Life and It does mo good. MAROAKETIIA DAUDSH.
1114 N , Superior SL , Kaclno City , Wit.
Pc-ru-na cures catarrh wherever located
and cures it completely. Read this letter :
Pe-RU-NA DRUO Mro. Co. , Columbus , O.
Dtar Sin. ! was a sufferer from dropsy affecting my ttoa * .
ach , legs and feet , I had employed phyilclans In vain. Tbf
had given ma up. At Ult my son-in-law got tome PrnHM
lira. 1L PIIITZ. * n < * Han-a-lln , and I Immediately began to Improve. !
thort time I wat ntlrely cured. Any doubting thlt ttato *
Hint may write and I will gladly antwer the letter , Mr * . N. DouoiURir , Klrtlmte City , Via.
< Every woman should have Dr. Hartman's book called " Health
and Beauty , " which is mailed to all women on application to * the
Pe-ru-na Drug Mfg. Co , , Columbus , O. All druggists tell Pc-ru-oa *