, * K
t 111
10 THE OMAHA DAILY 111SIT DAY. F.EBBTJA11Y 20 , tSf)8.
MM
eg
THE OF WOMAN. ( § ss > .
] WJ
r.vsuio.vs or TIII : SIJASON.
liculrn Colnm , ( ! nn Mrlnl II on d * nnil
In- ! iirllo Spring Cliillm.
T\mv YOIIK Feb. 17. It Is , Indeed , an
III wind that .blowa nobody any Rood , for If
the train Is hero with all Its attendant dan
gers and difficultly , the bell-shaped skirt
Is nnco more the mole. This Is distinctly
cause for rejoicing. Also wo may be Rlad
that the expensive fashion of balding , to
the point of extravagi ncc , will soon bo all
but set completely asldo In favor of tucking
and cording. The pretty new spring oloth
skirts arc , In just n few exceptions , treated
with very narrow tucks , runrlng from waist
to foot nncl set as close together or as far
np.irtis taste dcmandi. The bent effect Is
when the tucks close In slightly at the
waist line , spreading out fanwlse toward the
foot , or from the waist down nearly to the
region of ihu knees , little upstanding tuoks ,
run close together , extend down In a series
of points , giving the lower part of the skirt
nil the appuiranco of a flounce.
Yet another method Is that of setting clus
ters of circular tucks , fifteen tiny ones at
the foot , eleven at the knees and seven
running nround the hips. Numbers of at
tractive tailor costumes have their skirts
tucked In panels or the front crossed with
small 'bias ' tucks ; In fact , there Is no end
jot found to the Infinite variety this eim-
pli > adornment can lend a cloth dress.
Sleeves and vests are tucked extensively to
harmonhe- with the lower half of a suit ,
while tlio cording , as with the tucking , U
often used to exploit a color In silk stitch
ing contrasting with the gown's goods.
ILKNTEN GOWNS.
Eo far. no cording In very high relief has
Tieen adopted. The effort seems yet to tend
toward raising flue lines In slight promi
nence i gainst a smooth cloth surface , a so-
ili a of ornate , geometric figures , or deli
cate scroll patterns , such as the narrow
braids used to supply. So far have been seen
very chaste Lenten gray and monk brown
cashmere cloth suits , with wrinkled lines of
cnrds descending In groups of five from the
hip line to the knees , there turning nnd
swopping off to the rear of tno petticoat.
Kvery line Irregular corded line is set un
eighth of an Inch apart , nnd sprinkled spar
ingly over the lines are pin-head dots of
cut steel.
This could hardly bo termed beading , but
presently wo will neo the steel and gun metal
plnheads brightening many cloth suits , nnd
greatly to their advantage. A list of the
gcol , now light weight woolens Includes coa-
tumo bergo , with a smooth finish and narrow
clouo wale In doublu width and less than $1
a yard. Alongside this admirable goods Is
Fiench flnetta , a light , springy wool novelty
cloth , wide brown and greou wool velours
and soft striped London suitings. Just now
there are no better si-lections to bo made In
the hhops , while on the silk counter brocaded
taffetas lead everything else. Every day
In the nlry mark of cotton things , there
Is a fresh temptation to extravagance. It
would seem that she who walks In this very
American attlro will siller hao to spare , because -
cause she can buy the sweetest of printed
lawns , dlmltlcs and nainsook at 10 cents a
ynid. Lo\oly patterns , too , ami the pretty
tilllos go by various names carmellte , mul-
lettu and such fanciful titles ,
BOXED iussis.
Something more costly , but betraying ex
ceeding tcsto uml originality on thu part of
thu Manufacturers , are the boxed dress pat
terns of whlto applique lawn. This Is predestined -
destined to take the place entirely of the onca
well loved brown butlsto and tbo white em
broidered lawn. The applique Is ojged all
abuit with a line lluo of Mack needle worlc ,
and u whlto organdie1 , flowered over with palo
lavender unJ deep purple Iris blossoms , sot
In a delicate black frumuwork , Is a delect
able sight to beauty-loving eyes.
Another iiretty thing , called Javaualse ,
that wet do i-ot recall having over seen be
fore , Is a cotton goods , soft and line as the
batlstu uid used for French lingerie , striped
In aatlny lines and flowered llko the teacupu
and cake platea of our grandmothers. To
accord with these dainties aru ttio drc-sjen
rod applique embroideries , tholr colored
llguus laid on whlto linen groundwork , and ,
as appropriate , are highly deserving figured
nnd flowered rlbbccis , all edged with broad
white- satin borders ,
U U icnlly Impossible to think of any
garnishment for tmmtner muBllcu , dancing ,
call rig or dinner dresses , that tha counters
ctmiot supply all ready made. No woman
over thinks these 'lajs of muklng with her
own hands a dccaratlvu front , the ruflles
for her net. llk or muslin skirts , the bright
collar for her tailor druts , or a bit of a
jabot to smarter up a rather iwloiun suit ,
The > economy of thu home-made la slight
whim 60 cheaply uud so beautifully put to
gether , She can purchase yards of muslin or
chiffon flouncing all decorated with waving
rows of narrow gathered ribbon , or Hues
of flue chiffon ( uiinug called boulllonne.
Delicate Halo and liberty silk ruining
cornea with a lace edging or completely
tucked , or charmingly bordered with fringes
of violets , cowslips , etc. Silk and I'nun
appliques la white uiul colors and lisle
tiulllkiga are noticeable among the garnish-
menu for spring dresses , juat as clusters
of lurburnum and brilliant ellk pomegranate
bloonuj uro set forth amid the mlllUiery nov
elties.
SMART HOSIERY.
A history of the pasting fooliloca certainly
would not be complete without duo regard
to Iho wherewithal our foot shall be shod.
What with the endless variations on stripes
and plaids nud lace work fronts the hosiery
counter 1 * a very attractive spot. There la ,
for Instance , a special corner for bicycle
coquettlahness in footwear. She who clew
not adopt the. Scotch golf stocking can buy
. / /
leather brown , varied with black or white
ring stripes , nnvy blue -with hunter rilak
bands , or butcher blue , set off by green
clrclcj.
For fikntlng , blnck cashmere stockings are
produced , having a shot silk web that la very
gay Indeed. To assume with high boots
for morning walks poft wool tartan cash-
j morn hose In the gaudiest of colorings leai
the way , while for the evening , Parisian tnsto
| supplies black drawn silk , offset by means
, of chintz rosebuds and green fo'lagc. In
j the siur.o category must bo mentioned tbo
spun silk stocklngo In the hitherto unused
' tones of boat brown Mid swcdlah gray. Let
It bo berne tn the minds of these seeking
knowledge that horizontal stripes and bands
of open work are Just now pre-eminent anil
j that by way of being Intensely fashionable
' and oxpcnslvo insertions of black lace with
' whlto elik hose , or whlto lace appllqued on
blnck silk stockings , Is the proper and costly
caper.
To adequately dloplay thesa prcttlneescs
the best dancing slippers arc fashioned , cut
very low on the toe , nnd those of black
tMtln , that boast the title of court slip
per , have the most delicate chains of Jet
pnsiicmcntcrlo that cross over the Instep
nnd encircle the ankle. Sometimes tlies3
' Htrapu are mndo of ( black Jetted lace , or
A TEA JACKET.
lace worked with steel beadB , and quite as
attractive ns these are the higher cut black
kid slippers , slashed open over the instep to
show the gay stocking beneath. What is
oultaWy christened as the "colonial" heel I
Is taking the place of tbo curved French
heel on the smartest evening shoes. Thla
is a high pig-shaped support for the foot ,
ihut not eo high , so uncomfortable or so In-
jiulous to health as the wretched French
contrivance.
Among the trifles light as air , and just
for momentary consideration , tossed about
on the topmost wave of fashion , are the
high-laced house shoes of 'palo brocadsd
° atln , mounted on elemler soles nnd dancing
heels. The affluent oml novelty hungry
women who have exquisite toil to display
buy these brocaded boots In colors to match
their ball nnd dinner gowns , lacing them
with silken strings finished with glided
tugs.
TEA JACKETS AND HOWS.
AmonR the beauties of spring trousseaus
comment falls first on tea jackets. Evi
dently It 1ms slipped Into the placa once
so adequately filled by fancy -waist , for ,
dcaplto Ita name , the tea jacket la not con-
Qned to vwr at teas , The model of
one given In the Illustration this week Is
welcome nnd worn nt small nnd what arc
known as "hlghncckcd dinners , " at the
theater or at homo In the afternoon. Its
accompaniment la a. smart , Mack skirt of
whatever Bluff It may please each wearer
to make It. As to the Jacket , that tidy
llttlo garment Is not much more than o
Louis Qtilnz coat of some dark silk or satin ,
eet off with some cheerful paraementsrle , a
lace or chiffon front adequately Jabottcd and
a peep of Jeweled belt nt the waist line.
These coata are iblossoinlng forth every
where , made of plum red , or emerald green
satin , some dark rich bcngallno or good
faille. Perhaps , no as the case with the
fancy wnlst , the secret of their charm and
popularity Is that they arc not expensive.
Even when they are most lovely , and with
a iblack silk skirt , they distinctly create a
modish c"fltumo.
ILLUSTRATED MODELS.
It Is a conservative estimate to say that
two-thirds of the feminine world wear a
bow under Its chin. A dashing llttlo'French '
bow , made In two loops , no ends irppcarlng
of taft'cta , or chiffon , or tulle that Is ac
cordion plaited. The three figures In the
sroup are but fair examples of what Is
belnd done In the .bow line and one. of them
exhibits that latest and choicest element lu
small fashion , an accordion plaited jabot.
The feature of most Importance , In the
central figure of the group , Is the short coat
she wears. A distinctly jaunty wrap , but
thuro la a decidedly assertive and undigni
fied air about nil the new coils that icfuso
yet awhile to grow out e\cn the briefest sort
of tails. 'According ' to measurement Ihe
coals are ono-half inch shorter than last
year , and with silk shirt waists will 'be ' worn
pretty nicltonello jackets of plum color ,
green and brown , having satin-faced rovers
and deep rolling cuffs.
A tucked taffeta shirt waist of palo yellow
with a bow nnd Jabot of the same under the
wearer's chin makes up the- distinctive portion
tion of the cccuumoorn by the ilgure 'n
the middle of the largo picture. Her hat Is
i palo yellow strew , of the last alpine shape ,
clomped by a broad black velvet band and
-howing a lowering cockade of only black
ilumes In front. Her slender compcnion to
.he left gives ocular demonstration of the
beauties of the tucked skirt referred to in
a foregoing paragraph. There we havea
nonk ibrown velours laid In the tucks radl-
iting from the waist and with it most taste
fully is worn a palo rose silk blouse. Back
and forth across the full front of it Is laid
narrow black velvet rlbbor describing the
nest emphatic plaids , while a jabot of
halted 'black ' lisso at the neck and a narrow
black satin belt give the final cffecttvs
touches to a most simple lilllo loilet. The
crowning motive hero ib the pie crown Ihl
hat of mastic chenille , garnished wllh two
upstanding loops of rrso taffeta ribbon from
which curl out , hornlike , to either side , full
black ostrich plumes.
The Ihlrd woman In Ihe. group wears a
costume In Iv.-o lones. The upper portion
of the skirt la a round , short klrtlo of ab
bess blue cashmere cloth , falling upon an un
der petticoat of cream wool velour. Velours
revers turn over blue oneo from a blousei
tucked front and 'tucks ' distinguish the
"loeves , and to preserve Ihe unities of fashIon -
Ion a blue walking hat Is worn , made bril
liant by a side ornament of snowy
Every sensible woman , whether a golfer
or not , Is sure to Include among her most
practical spring purchases a reversible skirt.
This garment is the Invention of a glflcd
lalior , who makes a specially of golfing sulls ,
and his latest masterpiece Is a skirt that
can absolutely bo worn Insldo out. The
material Is a Scotch wool of any solid colbr
preferred on the one sldo and checked on
Ihe other. It Is made up with scums so
neatly nnd cunningly tripped as to show
equally well on 'elth r fnco 6f the cloth. No
lining , of coui-s'p' ' , ' 1i employed , the checked
face Is bordercft lj'i.ho , 'bottom with x broad
band of the sameuhlle ) the green or brown
face U bordorit 'with a band of the same
color to mutch. 1 bo whole -border Is stoutly
stitched. A woven linen reversible band
finishes the waist Tlno and It is only neces
sary to turn the pocket , an affair of a mo
ment. when the- skirt la worn with the
checked or plalhtslJe out. With a percale
or flannel shirt * rhil and a leather belt , this
skirt makes up the most approved , simple ,
sensible and inckKAislro outing suit yet da-
vised. * , iM. iDA VIS.
.
Olil Medioil of TcnchlnK Mimic Vntlpr-
Koltitr n llcvolntloii.
Another member of the fair sex has como
forward to disprove the accusation that
woman la not original. Miss Evelyn Ashton
Fletcher has evolved a new method of teach
ing music to children , beginning with the llt
tlo tots not moro than 3 or 4 yearo old.
Mlsa Fletcher Is a Canadian , her homo beIng -
Ing in 'Toronto , nnd possessing n strong mu
sical bent , she early In life began to devote
herself to perfecting her talent ,
After oludylng In her native country she
went abroad end continued her musical edu
cation under the ilnost masters In England ,
Belgium and Germany. She then decided to
teach for a while , and among other pupils
took under her chnrgo a class of children ,
Being an unusually intelligent young
woman , she quickly made up her mind that
there was something wrong In the existing
method of teaching children music , for
Ihey made slow progress nnd plainly
showed Ihelr dlstaato nnd lack of In
terest. '
This state of things made her put on her"
thinking cap , with the outcome that the sys
tem now being known as the "Fletcher mu
sical klndergnrttn" was developed , the resulls
of which are already remarkable , and promise
great changes In Iho world of music. It Is
being adopted by Mr. Anagnos for the blind
at 1'crlclr.H Institute. South Boston , as ho '
leallzcs the rcvolullon It Is to work In mu- '
slcal Instruction for this unfortunate class of
human beings. And It has also just been In
troduced Into the New 'England Conserva
tory of Music by itho director , Mr. Geoige
W. Chadwlck.
The new method Is a simple one , following
natural linesanil ; , though Miss Fletcher had
never studied the kindergarten systems , In
comparing her musical plan with the Frocbel
and Peslalozn Ideas for Iho general Inslruc-
llou of children , all were found lo have
sought out nature's truths , and so to have
I cached like conclusions in their special di
rections. Tho- principle of acquiring ideas
by the sense pf touch underlies Miss Fletch
er's system. To'o'fnptes , rests , and musical
slgna , such aa > .cefs | , sharps , flats , forte ,
piano , etc. , arc- cut out of wood stained
blark , and are then named and played with
just ns dolls , soldiers or other toys would be.
Delightful games , plays , songs and stories
accompany the Imparting of facls about these
things they hold 1n their hands , the Imagina
tion Is stimulated and they are then ready
for any amount of knowledge , which
they readily absorb and tenaciously re
tain.
tain.Besides
Besides the mental training thus gained ,
Iho phjvical development of hands and wrista
Id provided for by extremely pretty exer
cises , some of them combined with the
singing of songs. The aesthetic or emotional
sldo is not neglected either , for the little
ones are made to feel the music as well
as to see It and think It. Some beautiful
composition is played , amd during the recital
they are taught to staud with oyca closed ,
Helming Intently , and when they fool the
rhythm , to begin to clap their hands , keep
ing time to the music and accenting the
beat and preserving sllctico en the unac-
cortcd notes.
Miss Fletcher's llttlo pupils name notes
as quickly as their clover teacher points
from treble clef to bass , nnd they do not
btfiltate , no matter how many added Unco
above or below there are. They go to the
blackboard and divide long lines of notes
nod rests with dota Interspersed Into correct
bam , after their teacher has chosen tbo
tlmo ,
They build quickly major and minor scales ;
they Indicate the rhythm of compositions
played to them by clapping the hands softly
on the accented beat and swinging them
down on the onca unaccented ; In short , they
climb with caBo the thorny path bristling
with sharps , flats , accidentals , minor thirds ,
augmented fifths and similar musical mys
teries , and achieve In earliest childhood a
thorough understanding of music and har
mony , which proves a lifelong pleasure and
benefit and all because ono Intelligent
woman WBH thoughtful enough to porcclvo
the faults of her predecessors for centuries ,
who had charge of teaching the young musi
cal Idea to shoot.
Mrs. Eliza A , Lowell , a descendant of the
first settler of Hallowcll , Me. , has made n
donation of $10,000 to build a wing of the
library building In that city ,
The Count and Countess Bonl de Castol-
lane are staying at Cannes just at present ,
and among nil the wealthy \\omcn now do
ing the lllvlcra Iho countess shines resplen
dent In her fashionable gowns.
There has been recently published In
Washington a photograph of Mrs. Cleveland
writing In her den In the Whlto House. It
Is the only published photograph of her that
was over taken In the executive mansion.
The countess of WIsborgvlfo of Prlnco
Oscar of Sweden , Is at present In London
going through a course of training ns a
nurse , In order that she may help her hus
band In the missionary work ho has under
taken In West Africa.
Miss Alice Hoffman , grandnlcco of Matilda
Hoffman , Washington Irvlng's sweetheart ,
has a face so much llko the ono shown In
her grandaunt's portrait as to occasion re-
MISS EVELYN ASHTON FLI3TCHEU.
inarlc. Misa Hoffman Is a San Francisco
Kirl. Her Breat-grandfather , Judge Ogdun
Hoffman , lived In New York.
Mme. Verdi's will has been proved at
Home. The deceased woman baved a modest
fortune before her marriage to Verdi , nnd
while she was still a ] ) opul.\r operatic prlma
donna. Of this about ? 4GOO now goes to
build a hospital at Vlllanova , and the balance
In smaller hums Is devoted to various char
ities.
ities.Mlta
Mlta Donnctto Smith , a relative of the
Mormon prophet , Joseph Smith , has Just
completed a course In 'Brooklyn ' preparatory
to becoming a teacher. She is a bright ,
handsome- brunette , thoroughly educated and
inerested In all social and economic ques
tions and Is fervently constant to the doc
trines of the Mormon church.
Mrs. Amelia E. Barr , one of the tow
authors who can boast of an Income of ? 20-
000 from tholr works , says that much of her
success Is duo to tbo fact that in her child
hood she was brought up on all the books
of fancy and imagination so dear to a child's
heart. It was such tales , she claims , that
first instilled lu her a great love of litera
ture.
ture.Miss
Miss Pauline Jchnson , the lecturer and
poetess , is a full-blooded Mohawk Indluu.
After the publication of her volume , "White
'Wampum , " site went to England and was
received with open arms by the exclusive
society of London. She was Introduced
1
'
Yale's
Hair
Tonic
juADIKS AND tt I
MKN : It affords mo
great pleasure to
call the attention of
the public to the
Excelsior Hair
Tonic , which is the
first and only rem
edy known to chem
istry which positive
ly turns gray hair
back to its original
color Avithout dye.
It has gone on rec
ord that Mme. M. Yale wonderful women chemist has
made this most valuable of all chemical discoveries. Mmo.
Yale personally endorses its action and gives the public her
solemn guarantee that it has been tested in every conceivable
way , and has proved itself to be the ONLY Hair Specific. It
STOPS IIAIU FALLING immediately and creates a luxurious growth.
Contains no injitrious ingredient. Physicians and chemists
invited to analyze it. It is not sticky or greasy ; on the con
trary it makes the hair soft , youthful , Huffy , and keeps it in
curl. For gentlemen and ladies Avith hair a little gray ,
streaked gray , entirely gray , and with BALD HEADS , it is
specially recommended. Our price G9c ,
OTJK SPECIAL PRICES.
TUB VEUY BRST TJTJ3 WOULD PRODUCES.
Her. Our
I'rlce. Price.
Mtne. Yalc'fl Ilnlr Tonic rosiores tlio Iinlr nnd stops It from falling out Jl 00 . .09.C9
. ' , . * .C9
Mine. Ynlp's Hair Cleun er for shampooing J.J
JInie. Yale's J'lUltcurn ( for Fomal * Weakness ) , .CJ
Mine. Yale's I i I'lockl.i. for frccltlei ' ' -S v , C9
Mine. Yule's Skin I'oo.l ( small , for wrinkles ) ; l. . - 0 1.19
Mine. Yale's BUln rooil (1 ( irse ) > " f'J
Mmo. Yale's llust Fixjil ( mall , for ilc\eloplnsr NcclC , Dust nnj' ' Arms ) I. .W
Mine. Ynlc'a liust rood ( large ) 3.0) 223
Mine. Yale'H Coniplexloti INice 1'owilor , tlnee shades pink , white brunette SO .3j
JImn. Yale'a Complexion Soap " ' ' ;
Mine. Ynle'3 Ooniplexlon llleatli ( for Moth Patches anil Llxcr Spots ) 2.0 < > l.iJ
Mine. Yale's Complexion Cieam ( for Foftenlnp and lorinlnff llif Skin ) 100 .09
Mine. Yale's Iljclash Grov.er ( proinotlnc Kro\\th of the Iljebrowa unit Lushes 1.00 .09
Mine. Yale's Sperlnl Lotion ( I'lmplo Cure ) 1.00 .09
Mine. Yale'i Special Ointment ( lllark Ilond Cure ) 1.00 .09
Mmc. Yale's lllooil Tonic ( purtf > Ins the Wood ) 1.0) .09
Mme. Yale's Ilanil Whlti'iior ( makes hands soft , dcllcato nnil whlto 1.00 -09
Mine. Yulc'B llllxlr of I'.oauty ( Skin Tonic ) l.W .C9
Mme Yak-'s Mnclcil Societ ( for Softening Water ) l.SO 119
Mine. Ynlp's Great Scott J JJ 3-JJ
Mine. Ynlo's Ore.it Scott ( small ) J.W .J
Minn. Yale's Jnck Itoe I > na\cs ( Ijlquld Rouge ) ' < , oj
Mme Ynlo's jRok-llo e nuila ( Up Bnlvc ) J.W -JJ
Mme Yalo's I'"HC ptianiel.vhlte and pink ' " ' ' *
Mme. Ynle's Kji-brow Pencils } *
Mme. Yale's Kertlll/cr ( for Constipation ) _ . . . ' 1.5 * l. ]
Mme. Yule's Mole aiujj Wait llxtPrmlnator ( larse ) J.JJJ - '
Mme. Yale's Mole nnd Wnrt i\termlnator : ( small ) 1. ° ° ;
Mme. Yale's I.lly Hkln Wliltencr ! < -f
Mme. Yale's Skin lletlner J-W .CJ
Mine. Yale's Complexlun lirush ' . "u 'i1
Mme. Yale's Antiseptic l-m '
Mme Yale's DiEesthe Tablets ( for Indlprestlon , etc. , IniBP Fl/c ) 1.00 .C9
Mmo. Yale's DlKesthe Tablets ( for Indigestion , etc. , small size ) .W .3 >
Mme. Yale's Complexion Tablets ( IarRt > size ) LOO .C9
Mme. Yale's Complexion Tablets ( mill sle ) jg * >
Mine. Yale's IVrtllUer Tablets ( larfjo Blzt- ) 1.00 .69
Mme. Yale's Fertilizer Tablets ( laiRi- size ) CO .M
BEAUTY SOUVENIRS.
Wo will present every lady calling at our iliui ? department with Mmo. Yale's two Eclentino
Imoks entitled "Wotmn'a Wisdom" nnd "Honk to Hcauty. " Tliey contain nilvlce fiom Mnu- .
Yale on the subjects of Health nnd Henuty that cannot ho obtained fiom itny other source.
Omaha , Neb.
everywhere by Lady Aberdeen. This hand
some Mohawk girl Is now filling a scries of
lecturing engagements. She recites her own
verses attired In tbo buckskin costume of
her tribe.
Mme. Crlspl. wlfo of the Italian statesman
and ex-premle'r , Is noted for her eccentrici
ties. An Italian paper relates that she en
tered the city of Palermo Icartlng by a chain
a llttlo calf that she had trained llko a dos.
At the entrance to the city- the employes
of the octroi , or local customs bureau , were
going to make her pay the usual tax on
veal , but Mine. Crlspl protested at the may
or's ofllco. That official , recognizing the fact
that the animal was not for eating purposes ,
exempted It from duties.
The pretty Archduchess Elbabcth of Aus
tria , who was 19 last July , and who mnlcrs
her debut this winter at the Imperial court ,
is much admired for her simplicity of na
ture and absence of hauteur , the leading
characteristics of the members of the proud
liotita of Hapsburg. The princess nnd her
sister , Maria Aiinonclada , are now the two
great attractions nt the Vienna court , and
both being of marriageable ago speculation
naturally Is rlfo as to their matrimonial
future , which unquestionably will bo great ,
they being nieces of the present end slHters
of the next emperor , whether the latter bo
Archduke Franz or hlfl brother , Ferdinand ,
nf 1'HHhlon.
Eflgllsh walking-jackets and English walkIng -
Ing hats will bo marked favorites for spring j
wear.
If you want to Indulge In the latest friv
olity have your handkerchiefs embroidered
with flowers to match the blossoms In your
tat.
Never were finer woven or moro daintily
fascinating designs and lovely color lileaid-
Ings produced than ore shown In the organ
dies Iwought to view for the summer of 1898 ,
Chiffon and inonpsellno do solo will un
questionably bo used for the two seasons be
fore us as the fabrics for the making o (
many beautiful articles of dress , Including
entire gowns and fancy waists.
Something very dainty In a summer shirt
waist Is made of whlto organdie , finely tucked _
end embroidered , and worn over n palo blue
undcrslip of China suit or ixutsto.
Shirred silk has partially usurped the place
of accordion-plaited silk. It cornea In a
variety of pretty light shades , with knife-
plaited frills to match , nnd la employed for
fiklrt panels , yokes sleeves , and veeta.
Purple. In ono or other of Its many tints
nnd tones , Including plum , violet , orchid ,
heliotrope , petunia , Iris , lilac , and wistaria ,
Is everywhere In evidence In the exhibit of
eprlng drcsa fabrics , ribbons , and millinery ,
The craze for jowclrd effects Is very
noticeably expressed In the Jeweled belts and
dog collars worn over fur Jackets , and to
complete this outfit the muff must have a
largo Jeweled buckle In the bow which deco
rates thu top.
Bonnets for young women have been very
popular for the last two months , as largo lialii
have become very common , and some of these
dainty affairs are made of steel and jet , with
a sort of butterfly wings and a small crown
just large enough to take the small cell at
the top of the head. A large bow of velvet
ribbon attached to a little beaded crown Is
another youthful model.
The reappearance ) of largo Gainsborough
hats In chip and delicate fancy braids ,
freighted with soft , drooping plumes In whlto ,
palo pink , mauve and tilack , and the won
derful exhibit of airy inuulhm anil lace shoul
der capos and flcliua of every conceivable
style anil length , bespeaks In advance a
summer of exceedingly poetic and picturesque
styles.
Plain Irlan-Oas materials arp brought out
in blue , pink , tan , ecru , brown , etc. , and
models fue fo Uaaed Into Jacket ccoUumos ,
strapped fleams And tlnr buttons , in
true tailor style. A suit of ono color will bo
worn with a vest of another , as brown or
gray with pink , cream with Wuo , and so on.
For genuine hot weather , theao fabrics are
cooler and more comfortable wear than tha
heavier linens nnd ducks.
Sashes of all kinds and conditions are wall
to tbo front In fashion , and the. new ribbons
are moro beautiful than over. There are
Koinan stripes , checks nnd plaids , wttli satin
bordered edges , nnd flowered , corded , and
watered ribbons of all Idnds. Net , chiffon
&nd lace sashes will continue In favor ; but
It Is not nloiio sashes for the waist that
swell the list. The sashes for the neck aio
qulto as coiibplcuous and moro generally
worn , for all women seem to llko itho long
silken cravats around tholr throats. They
are made of liberty gaupa , chiffon and thin
bilk , or of Swiss , with hemstitched and laco-
trlmmcd ends.
Trim , taut and pre-eminently smart are
the new spring coats that are made to suit
every form and every fancy. Many are
belted , others finished with strapped scama
and a Liberty-satin lining. I're'tty ' styles
for jouthful figures have close-fitting backs
and loouo box fronts , and , again , are open-
fronted sliapcH with rather largo i overs thut
continue into turn-down collars , the rovers
and collars covered 'with whlto satin that
Is borderej with u number of rowe of line ,
iintarnls'liahlo gold braid , or eleo ono
medium iwlilo band of cullooi ] worked with
Iridescent beads.
Spilng hats of straw ara not very much In
demand as yet , except for pouthern outfits ,
but they uro getting Into place In the shops
with great rapidity , conKlJoring the tempera
ture outside. The ( list installment of milli
nery Is not always to bo trusted as an ux-
hlbltlrm of the styles that will prevail later ,
but It Is evident that the now stiaws ara
very light In weight and glossy In uppear-
anco. Satin and silk are blended with utrnw
and vcgotablo silk , HO much used last
season , Is to bo a conspicuous feature of our
summer bats , There are utuo satin straws ,
Tuscan and Japanese rustic straws and the
light Panamas , BO much lilted for cycling
hats. Whatever the kind of straw may be ,
there Is a variety In plain and mlxoJ. colors
which Is qulto bewildering. All the Unto In
cllkfl suem to bo reproduced In UICHO now
straws.
A SIMI'LBIIOUSI3 FUOCK.