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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 26, 1897)
THE OMAHA BATIiY HEE : * NDAV , DECEMBER 20 , 1807 , 11 1 ' FASHION'S IIOIIOSCOIM : . A FnrrcnNt of the Aolnlile Slj-K'n for tlip \cv Yi-iir. NEW YORK , Doc. 23. This Is the very tlmo for casting the horoscope of fashion The new year Is here and the natural de sire ot every progressive woman Is to know ivhat , that Is novel In the way ) ot apparel , may bo expected for 1S3S. As a matter of fact , 189i ) prombcs , so far , to bo a conservative year. At least , no very surprising revelations arc even whispered nt as yet and feminine effort just now seems concentrated in trying to make a dozen spangles twinkle whcro but ono or two or perhaps none appeared a month ago. Speaking truthfully and from observation thcro Is no garment , from hat to ( hoes , that ono cannot now ! with all propriety strew with spangles ot any size or color. Heavy walking'coats ! throw out a wide lapel across the bust , or turn deep cuffs up from the wrists agllttcr with them. At some of these midwinter receptions for debutantes women are secM In fancy waUts so solidly Incrusted with the bright bits of metal that their arras and bodies seem clothed In a gorgeous silver scale armor. The spangles , on very elegant gowns , are overlapped and Inturmla gled In dazzling tolors and figures and a final expression of this frivolity has been made In elaborately spangling the flounces ot silk under petticoats. BELTED COATS. Newt after spangles the serious Interests of the feminine mind are centered Ir , little -wraps. Ot course , for rooming ure tic very well dressed \\onien wear ciala and quite suddenly , an we were swinging out of ' 97 Into ' 08 , cvery coat , with Us pouched front and hip tails , suddenly took to Itself a won derful belt. Tihsso mesdanics who can afford smart fur ccats of the highly extiavigant broad tall or rich Pert-Ian lamb , or slightly less costly ustrackhen , have blossomed forth In ccat belts of Imitation turquoise and cut steel or mock araelhjsts set In oxidized sil ver. Against the dark fur these glitter splendidly ; or lese extravagant women wcur about their waists black satin rlbboa * heavily Incrusted In Jet , and In front catch the rlb- > bln ends 'thrcugh ' very big steel buckles. She who cannot quite afford a fur , or even a vel vet coat trimmed with fur , contents herself by clasping about the waist line of her stout , pretty cloth Jacket a narrow belt of green erred red leather , or a girdle formed of a strip cf velvet ribbon , on w-blch are fastened rows of big sharp jet beads , and in front bhc uses her best largo silver belt buckles. The little capes are , however , the matter of momenti and a row cf themi are skc-tchci' this week for the enlightenment of any woman who wishes to see how they are nude. Fur , of course , toy -always first place , bu some charmers , nevertheless , are made o velvet , preferably black or fancy purple , and cdgei for effect with ermine. If ermine Is not easily comeatable the velvet capes arc edged with a full ruch ot chiffon or silk mus lln , and then a depending flounce ot the sami adding to the capo's lengtb and whimsical prettlnesa. Now and then a thrifty woman , \\Siofe cape material ID not above reproach , will artfully outline on the blemished joints of her vclve wrap pretty patterns In metallic green bronze or silver spangles and' tbo coneoquenc is a delight to the eyes. Lofty cur-tlckllng collars , softly -padded - with lace or chiffon ruffles , ore the command w ing features of these little wraps and befor then ) winter comfortables are dismissed 1 t is as well -mccltlon that with those coats { the lapels of whleh turn back , IcaUng handsbroadth of dress waist exposed , charm Ing little cruvats are worn. The Idea Is cover this glimpse ot dress waists and no only are scarfs wound round the rwck am knotted under the c'.ilti , but , more of a nov city still , a stock of pure white plaited lull Is fastened round the neck , over the drcs collar , behind , while in trait Is attached a big wbcel-shapeil tulle bow. THE TAILOR SASH. A fiharp eye Is necessary to follow the countless manifestations the popular sash. is making , for a * sash seems almost an In- ovltablo part of every gown at present. First , we have the sash that goes with the braided formal tailor suit. A tailor's sash Is usually two long wedge-shaped pieces of cloth , faced with silk , stiffened with an In terlining and decorated with braid. Such tashcs have swallow -tall or arrow head ends , and fall primly to the hem over the back fullness of the rklrt. -beginning In two narrow braided bretellcs from the shoulders , pass over the 'bust and hang out upon the gklrt , just inside the line ot the hips. Floral , tulle , lace , ribbon and chiffon sashes for evening gowns have ibeen mcn- tlonexl , 'but two novelties have just been put forth , Ono la the sash of three or two mis matched streamers and of any goods you please. The three streamer sash Is really ono long loop and ends , of pink , white and lilue ribbon , or whatever three colors har monize with the gown on which It Is worn , or of crepe do chlno , on a white dancing or dinner dress it Is appropriate ' .o wear two Hash streamers , and in their ends knot elus ions of artificial flowers. Last , but not of least Importance , Is Hit pretty chiffon , or ribbon cash , In Roman etrlpes , that Is worn llko a Scotchman's plaid or foreign nobleman's ribbon of a grand or der , that Is attached on the right shoulder and drawn across the breast to the left hip. There , knotted and allowed to fall where the sash crosses the ibreaet it Is fastened to the ibodlco by pretty pins , or Is caught on the shoulder toy some old cameo or miniature brooch. If the Roman sash Is worn deeply fringed ends arc adopted , and gay girls who skate this season -wear as mn til era wide soft silk neck scarfs , bright with Roman stripes and deep frlrge. These are knotted like four-In- hand tlet. loosrty about the throat , or with house shirt waists of flannel or silk are very much used in place of belts. A Roman scarf is soft , draws Into pretty , clwe folds when wrappei tight at the waist line , and Kt ono side two loops and ( ringed ends make & neat finish. IA NEW U-B iFOR JEWELS. The coats , as the season deepened , l > egan to show the ne-iv extravagance ot fashion In trimming with Imitation Jewels , but now ewels appear on nearly all the gowns that lay any claim to smartness. A now fancy " | ir trimming cloth suits with little bow- of steel and Jet In place of buckles , .making an elaborate use of elided and Xjnnetal chains in ornamenting the panels It eklrts and fronts of iodlcca. The chains , bypretty little hooks , are fastened to metal Byes sewed onto the cloth , and crlss-crcsslng over lace or velvet they bring a new and undoubtedly costly addition to the sum of fashion , Yet In details simple ornaments are very greatly admired and worn this winter , Vene- tlan beads are very much the mode in place of pearl necklaces and diamond collars and the fans we tee on all sides are Email , of M'lilto iboltlng cloth over colored bone sticks i tnd powdered with spangles In no Axed 1 pattern. 'Natural ' flowers are never even [ tarried as bouquets anil because of the prefer , J inco for'long transparent sleeves costly elgh- ' v. ken and twenty-button gloves re scarcely jyer seen. It must be Admitted that jeweled - &L combs arc still In many heads and yet with most extravagant toilets twists and small bows of black velvet ribbon are the only off sets to the hair. Any woman can consider herself pos sessed of a perfect dinner gown who has only a lustcrlcss black taffeta , trimmed with narrow velvet ribbon. She may flounce her taffeta up the waist , or decorate It only with velvet ribbon , sot on In Vandyke point ? and garnish the bodice with n little lace , but any way she ornaments It , the taffeta Itself need only bo of the sort used for lining eklrts , and she can in confidence ap pear In any assemblage. As a final aFsurancc of the laxity of fashion's rules , one may now serve as bridesmaid In a shirt waist. The shirt waist of course must bo a wonderfully showy garment , ot chiffon all over with lace and spangles , but In better taste It IB lavender or rcsc , or fruit green batin surrah , Its tails to the cutside , its collar a eyed little ermine beads , below which the long ends fall nearly to the floor.M. . M. DAVIS. Till ; CAHU OF 1'IAVOS. Costly IiiHtriiiiiciHn Mtit JJi > Tri-ntt-il 11 Illi Ciinxlilfrntlnii. In ' .he first place remember that a pin-no Is as sensitive to heat and cold as a delicate prrcon. It ehould not be pushed against a wall for fear of deadening the sound , or lie placed too near a fire , as licit draws the wood and alttrs the sounding board. Damp ness from a cold room or open window , is , well as heat or steam , clouds the high polish i and gives the case a cloudy , dull appear ance. When not In use : he Instrument should remain closed and always eo at night. T'tetuln Its urlglnal tone a piano should be tuned every three mon'hs anj bear In mind that a piano tuner shouU be selcctcu with care. BLACK AND WHITE SILK. flounce ot lace falling over a white satin cravat knotted low on the breast , and the studs and plcevo links of real or imitation Jewelsto match the shirt's goods. Shirt- watsted bridesmaids usually wear pretty tulle or muslin skirt's , ami In place of bou quets carry fans. Perhaps next we will hear of brides wearing shirt , waists to the altar , but that Is still to come. TO VARY ONE'S COSTUME. Recently , however , dressmakers and tailors have agreed that no costume Is complete un less Its skirt Is accompanied by two or more walstt ) . For example , every one of the beat tailor dresses are made with a tight-fitting basque and sklrtwalst , that the wearer may alternate between the close and easy body as she pleases , while the evening dresses ore nude with BS many as three waists. One decollete , one high In throat and sleeves for receptions and small dinners and one locae , lovely shirt , as simple or ornate as the owner desires. There has come Into being with the new- year apparently a fancy for the flchu or ker chief , or whatever ono may bo pleased to call a drapery of toft transparent stuff across the bust. In black and white lac * , muslin , chiffon fen and liberty silk the kerchiefs , falling Just to the waist line or clear to the toes , are spread forth for sale. They are not extrav agant Investments , many , wo'men choose to msko their own and their mission IB to bring light and frivolous airiness to plain or sober dark drcRses. Thoao moot noticeable are pale yellow chiffon neckerchiefs , edged all about their many frilling ruflles with the very tiniest band of ermineor swansdown. They drape about the shoulders softly and knot on the bust and a few very smart ones are clasped on the breast by a coupleof brlght- A soft cover placed over the keys pre serves them fron too incnse : cold and con/si- qucnt stl.7ne&3. This maybe cf plush , silk cr even Ilirl.t flannel , made like a sachet , with wadding between . * 'o layera of goo-.i , which in turn arc embroidered and cJgeU with a cord , making the strip the length and wUUi of the keyboard. Over the top of Uie piano Is the usual scarf of similar material to protect the piece of furn'turc from scratches , it being customary to fill the tc ; > with -palms , vases , photograph frames and a host of such articles , greatly to the detri ment ofho Instrument. To improve the lounJ turn a piino so tint the player faces the room , drape the back of an upright piano with plain , embroidered or printed silk , matching the top and key scarfs , or arrange the drapery EO that It covers 'tbo ' top and catch It Into place wXh a tiny piece of brlc-i-forac , picture frame , etc. Sometimes the Inside wed of an upright becomes too fay , which Is obviated by plac'ag a small bowl half full of water on the lower shelf Inside of the instrument after removing the beard directly above tile pedals. If the latter grow stiff from disuse , a few drops cf oil from the ever-conveulent oil can of the sewing machine will alter that. Dust the case and keys within eld silk handkerchief , and do not weah t'.ie far mer , as water discolors the Ivory. If wiped off everyday when the piano Is opened It will be years before the keys are sailed. It from age and want of care the keys grow yellow , whiten them while It la within the province of the housekeeper , for they grow so discolored at times as to need dis mounting , scraping and rcrpollbhlng. When only slightly yellow , rub the keys wll'.i lemon Juice ; before dry put on a little whiting wet with lemon Juice , and when perfectly dry , brush off with a soft , clean paint brush , taking earc that the mixture docs not get In between the keys. If too much yellowed for this mild treatment , use equal parts ot sulphurous acid and water ; use a brush to apply It , and do not allow It to touch any Oirt but the Ivory or the key ; finally , remove with clean cold water and a piece of white flannel , thoroughly drying each key after wetting It. Another cleansing mixture Is an ounce ot nitric acH and ten ounces of rain water ap- Dllcd with c brush and washed off as de scribed above. To renew the polish of a clouded , dull case , have two chamois skins and plenty of hot watsi. This Is heroic treatment , and should be dona by two people. One wrings a thamols skin out of the very warm water and lays It on the piano case for a moment only ; the second person follows with the dry chamois , rubbing t'je wet spot vigorously , while the wet skin U again dipped In warm water , \\vung out and laid on a fresh place. The rubbing with the dry cloth must be very brick and kept up until the wood shines , as the combination of hot water and "elbow grease" Is said to be 1-nfalllble. If the pedals grow dull polish them with the finest of wood ashc.3 sifted throucti muslin and mlx d with kerosene. Rub this on the nickel plate , and then vollsh with a woolen cloth. Ammonia and whiting are also uaecl for polishing pedals , mlng a piece ot flannel or chamois skin to rub It on. aad a clean piece to polish with. Treat your piano as a friend who Is a bundle of nerves and delicate sensibilities , and the Instrument will last iscuy years with undlmlulshed sweetness and strer.gl'j. Do not lift HI the keys to wipe them , except very gently , and never culti vate Hounding upon the 1 ng enduring piano until It becomes an Instrument of torture Is ru'ued In Its action. CRYSTAL ni.vxnus. Cut , Knarravcil mill Highly I'"ll ! ii-i ! ( Inn * at KiiKhl < inl > Ic Functions. On we'.l-sot tables this winter all e'lvei and china possible is dispersed with la the serving , while g'asa Ii"C cd almost exclu sively. Glae with llgfils and flowers , acd the gloss Is not a : way , ; Venetian , either. French or English fancy sjSss , and that cut , or engraved. 01 carved fcefe In the United ' ' States , are the c-pes'les'most sought after. The matter of grtatcst moment at a crystal dinner , where eo'up is eaten from sma'l ent-slars bow 1 "cups , a ad the sad ! from ta'.l champaBnc-et ip' i vases rich with gilding. ! s the great E'.as5"centerplsce. This Ust not only holds 'the'-flowers and i * an ornament In Itself. b'ufusUally supplies eok- c's for cand'cs. an'd to IP does awcy with the long-o\eJ : eilver candelabra. The centerpiece pieceat a crjstal dinner or luncheon Is apt to sit on a mirror p'nteiu ; la worked out In glass cf tints or rich colora.eet in a frame of gl.t , rnd It d'splays Fomo' novel design. U may 'bei mot t adorable clear glass temple , f'LantVng three orfour feet high , with a li2go.Ta top. in which hangs a chime of cry.ttal be ' $ t'jat ring , by means of miniature clock , vork set laa guilt ball on the temple's top The teraple'o pi Mrs are apt to be crowned with flower vases or candles , and Inside the circle of plllcrs stands a crjstal urn full of roecs. Not lees quaint and dcooratlve thin thl pattern is a lofty green and gilded glars blcyce : for a. woman'o luncheon , with flower vases hingit the huts and pedals and. for lauslcal Dinners , are tall , graceful lyres and antique- harp shapes of glass , strung with glldedwiree and arranged to hold vines and bloErony at every available polrt. M3s ( estcn'ahlngly pretty arc the big glass mil wheels , overgrown with vines en a mirror 'ake , or what Is regarded as the acme o lavirh decoration for -a dinner table a fllgh of opalescent g'as * bubbles. These come In eats of four and six. strung onflne silvei wtrea. acd though the crjstal spheres meas urci : - ! the way from eight to two Inches In diameter , their wepht ! la scarcely more then that of eoap bubbles. The wires are at tiched to the base of a cut glaes center bowl full of flowers , over which the rainbow colored balls of gltc hover like fairy ba ! loocs. Beside these striking frivolities In glass , the up-to-date housekeeper has got a brant new dinner table , of which no cloth I I worthy. It Is cither richly Inlaid on Its ma hcjeay or blackoak surface with colorei I wcods or mother of pearl , In designs o antique feasts or the chase , else It Is mon splendidly still made a repository for he : rare 1st plates , choicest bits of enamel , o costly wares. These dinner tables , in fact , all cave one circular spot In the center an a plain border at the edge , have gorgcou pieces of porcelain sunk In the wood. Wo men who have for years been collecting perfect set of empire or Louis XVI plates linvo these sunk In a great circle In thel dining tablo. so that those who eat of platters worth a trifling $50 a dozen , may yet feast their eyes on plates In willow pat tern , or eeveres or drcsden worth a couple of thousand dollars per dozen. Another eccentric table decoration , that any hostess may follow , Is that of dressing wine bottles for dinner in costumes appro priate to tbelr contents. On a claret bottle a red satin petticoat can be gathered , onto the cork a doll'is head Flipped , and out of a bit of muslin a French peasant woman's cap contrived , a tall hock bottle la prettily costumed as a Pierrot In petticoats , a cham pagne bottle gowned as a skirt dancer , , nd a beer liottlo glvem the guise of a German frauleln , A few o-lds and ends ot finery and some inexpensive doll heads Is all the equipment required to-decorate half a dozen bottles gayly and prittlty to place on the table Instead of the orthodox decanters. The cork topped by the dplt head can be easily lifted from every bottle's neck when the V l BELLES SNOWBALLING. wine Is poured- and after the dinner these wlno. mannllclho are usually distributed among tbo cucsts as souvenirs. ( illll.S lllCCOMi : SIM.IHICIIS. Tlioj- HIIVIKoriiiril a Urmilnr Ctini- liiiny at Atlanta , ( < n. "We have here In Atlanta the only mil itary company In this part of the country which Is formed entirely of girls , " writes Sergeant Foster to a Chicago Tribune corre spondent. "I believe , too , that If necessity atoso they would know how to uss the weapons with which they hive been thor oughly drilled. I have been their military- ! Instructor from the first , and thus my op- poi ( unity to judge has been superior to that which has fallen to the lot of any one else. "These girls went through a regulation military drill without making a single error , and they have done It since time and again. They seem to know by Intuition almost just what they should do7 and In their drill their movements are almost as If it were simply one person. I have often been asked what dlfferencs I found between them and the reg ulation so'.dlc.in point of drilling. I think I can truthfully say that the advantage lies all with the girl soldier , after she his once learned just exactly what she should ilo. "I found two great difficulties In drilling the company of girls. Ono was making them promptly and consistently obey the command Attention. " J'ou see. women find It very natural to look around when any one speaks , and at first when I would give a command they would all look at mo Instead of straight ahead , , as they should have done. They did not seem able to grasp the necessity of obey ing the command , and at times I thought I never could tsach them. Finally they caught the knick of It and DOW their 'attention' Is superb. "The second difficulty I met -with - was In getting them to keep their hands at their sides. It Ecemed as It every Individual girl In that company 'thought ' each time we drilled that her cap was crooked on her header or that something was the matter with her hair. Up the hands would go In spite ot all I could say or do ; they would be patting their hair and adjusting their caps whenever they had a moment's leisure. 1 don't mean to say that this was any sign of vanity at all , but tome things are as natural towomen as can 'be and they cannot be expected to break away frcm them without difficulty. "Finally I told them that It was necessary for a soldier to complete his itollet before he took his place In the ranks , and that any thing that was wrong In his appearance had to stay so unless It was something frightful. They thought the matter over carefully , and at last got so that 'they could leave their caps and their hair alone during the drill. Now not ono of them ever thinks of moving a hand at the wrong time or In the wrong direction. I don't believe there Is a com pany In the Unltei States army that drills according to Upton's tactics as carefully as these girls. The equipment of "the company Is complete. There are two uniforms , one ofwhite and one of blue. The skirts of the. uniforms are about the length of the me dium -bicycle eklrt. The blouse is made In soldier fashion and buttons close around the neck -with a military collar. The cap is. llko that worn by the soldiers of the regular' ' army. Each member of the company , when wearing full equipment , has about her waist the cartridge ibclt. and they all have knap- packs Just as mllltla of the other sex pos sess. The arm used Is the slx-pound Spring field rifle. It can thus oo seen that the girls are taught not how to play soldier , but In Just the fashion that the real elmon pure article Is drilled. CA > M > T I'llACTlClJ IiAW. State of D.limnriWill .Vot Ailnill Woiiu-n tit tinllnr. . I A barrier has been raised to woman's progress In Delaware. She has been refused permltujlco to practice law by the superior court of the state. The ruling , while In ac cordance with the Mm-tUu'lon , has so In censed a number of ambitious young women COAT FOR L' TTLE GIRL. CRYSTAL NOVELTIES , oludylng law that they have commenced a | movement to ibavc the conriltutlon amended In this respect. At regular organization has been formed by the lead-Ing women of the state , and at the next session of < he leglsla- turo It Is probable a bill will be Introduced to have the desired change made. Mrs. Rclbert P. Davis , the wife of a Sussex county ibarrlster , U 'the woman who raised this Interesting point. She has ibeen a stu dent In heo husband's office for several years , and a few days ago decided to apply for ad mission to the bar. The examining commit tee , In order to shift the responsibility , re ferred the matter -to the courts. The result \vea that the judges decided1 that Mrs. Davis .could not 6e admitted to practice , Jt Is stated that the ibench was divided in the matter of the young woman's admission to praollcc. While Chancellor Nicholson and Associate Judges Spruance. Grubb , I'enne- wlll and Boyce contended that the constitu tion prohibited It , Chief Justice Lore gal lantly championed the young woman's cause. Hn held that 'the ' following section of the ccnstltu'tlon ' did not apply to members of the bar : "No person shall toe elected or appointed to an office In the county or state who filial ! no : have the right to vote for jeprcsentatlve In the general assembly. " While Chief Justice Lore admitted that a lawyer was an officer of the county , he held thit a member of the 'bar ' was neither elected nor appointed , and therefore the above quoted provision of the constitution did not apply to the case of Mrs. Davis. But the chief justice was overruled. Feminine I Mm , Cleveland Is raid to ibo a strict dis ciplinarian with her children and a. firm , 'be liever in the Froobel system of education. Although tbo queen of Madagascar Insists upon going barefooted she -wears < ho most expensive costumes that eho can obtain from Paris. Mrs. Emma Barnes Storey , the well known American singer , has abandoned her pro posed German < our and will bpcnd the winter In Paris. The duchess of Marl-borough sends to New York for moat of her dresses. She buys her perfumes In ibulk , which IB forwarded to tbo Manor of Woodstock In gallon Jars. Miss L. M. Johnson , M. D. , Baltimore , hau just been admitted as a student to the Mary land Col I ego of Pharmacy. She Is tbo first woman to be admitted since the establish ment of the college In 1841 , Lady Renfordwife of the newly-elected governor of New Zealand , recently displayed great courage in a fire in Auckland. She rescued a ibiby from the flamen .and worked with the men In pouring water on the fire. Mme. Diaz , -wife of the Mexican president , has founded a home where girls can alwaja find employment , a nursery < where children of working women are cared for and a Mag- dxlen home for repentant sinners. Miss Long , daughter of the secretary of tbo navy , is one of the most recent devotees of > ihe wheel In Washington. She , -with Mrs. Nelson A. Miles and Mrs , McCallum , also recent converts to bicycling , Is at present learning to ride. Elizabeth Rider Wheaton , probably the best known prison evangelist in this country , has visited every prison In every Important city in < ! hc world , She has become known to most railroad men and receives annual passes over all the large 'lines in 'this country. Some ot the most expensive blouses and shirt waists for next season will be made of white batiste , trimmed with colored em- broVtry. Blouses of mull will be finished with fine tucks or cwls embroidery , Doll- cate ribbons at throat and belt will be worn with thin waists. A flowered silk gown can b ( brought up to date with a velvet ( blouse waist of dark color In the silk. The sleeves may beef , of silk , and with a gulmpo neck ot lace the effect IBcry pretty. If the velvet ibodlco la black rows of velvet ribbon on the skirt urn an Improvement , Jalouse Is the name of a fashionable shade of yellow that Is also railed orient and re gent In Paris and Berlin. There Is scarcely a half shade's difference Inthe three. An especially deep orange Is r-alled Klondike , though no gold was ever ao red. A new m odium violet shade Is called aconlt. Miss Edna Whitney , the- Kansas woman who became famous as qtiosn of the Kan- sas City Flewer festival , has won a suit which she began in order to recover the $1(10 ( offered her to act ns queen ot the recent chrysanthemum show in Kansas City for ono week. Miss .Minnie Poweis ot Lockport , N. Y. , Is believed to 'be the tallest woman on earth. The average height of women Is five feet live Inches , but Miss 1'owcrn towers above that as Plica's Peak over a mole hill. She Is seven feet eleven Inches , and as she Is only :0 the chances are goo.l for her to score an even eight feet. . Among the new shades nro six tones of gendarme blue , from the dci-p , dull colors to. a pale , pearly gobelin tint. Some lovely forget-me-not shade-s are seen In ihe palo ibluos , and three exquisite turquoise tints are strongly Imbued with a clear green tone. HOJO pink and old rose colors arc seen , and there are a dozen -beautiful shades of Fort , pure gray. A statement rccen ly mode by the Society of New England1 Women that there U to bo found no descendant of Prlscllla Alden , ot Mayflower fame. Is proved to bo Incorrect. A little girl about 12 years of age named Prlscllla Mullens Aldcn , who lives In the old Alden homestead at Duxbury , Mass. . which was -built In 1C53 , U ninth In descent from Prlscllla and John Alden. A prize of virtue has been conferred by the French academy on Miss Bonncfolswho has devoted , her life to the education of the children of the foratns , the , nomad population ot the booth and the caravan. She goes the rcund of all the great fairs and sets up her tent school among the shows and circuses , doing an Immense amount cf good , and oho Is highly popular among her rough clients , young and old. Queen MargharlU of Italy is responsible for the execution of a plan to tnlId an ob servatory at the summit of Mount Rose , at a height of 4,560 metres. The work on It has already been bcsun. Toe queen , who , as Is well known , is an enthusiastic mountaineer , la in the habit of parsing several weeks each year at the summit of Mount Rose. The new observatory will toe higher than < that on the summit o * Mount Blanc , and the highest in Europe. The cost will be about $50,000. Wear a wreath of llttlo roses In your hair at the theater Instead of a bonnet , and you , will be. quite up to date , the envy of all the other women and a delight to the fortu nate person who sits behind you. Plain velvets make up Into stylish gar ! ments'.that give excellent wear. Puffed vel vets In red and green tones and checked and plaid velvets are popular and pretty and make stylish blouses and bodices. Faddish girls are now wearing finger rings made of horseshoe nails. They are certainly not : pretty or graceful , but they are said to bring good luck to tbo wearer on certain conditions. I PlIHllIllII .Vcill'H. The latest chiffon sash Is nearly three- quarters of a yard wide. Felt hats covered w.ltb a large meshed black silk net arc one of the features of millinery. Old-fashioned pink cameos arc coming into vogue again end the olil-tlmo setting Is to bo retained. A famous English beauty ties startled old London this season by appearing In public la a ccat of w'Jlte BhcipEkln ! Spiders , grasshoppers and all sorts of winged Insects and groveling bugs are the popular designs In Jeweled pins. Among the new fancies In fashion's schema of decorating our gowns are the black velvet bands generously sprinkled with blue Jet. The jeweled belt , the sash and the.velvet girdle with a biw on the left side , replendont with a jeweled buckle , are the novelties In finish at the waist. Stockings for the bridal trousseau arc em * broldered In some dainty Moral design with wash silks on the double edge , and the patterns may be as varlrd as the number of palis. The newest toilet plncurhlons are not far from twenty-seven Indies long and from six o eight wide , with silk embroidered tops and a lace flounce around the sides , dotted with bows of narrow ribbon. The popularity for taffeta silk Is unabated. In plain colors and bl-acka It Is the decided favorite. Plaid taffetas are used to a ceilaln extent , but the changeable colors are In especial demand. The Waldorf plaid is a nllk fabric showing two amd a half Inch srjrarcB In daring colors and combinations , beige and blue , brown and shaded red , and pkik and green. U ls ex pensive and is declared to bo erpeclally stylish. One of the novelties In Jewelry Is a diamond snake with sapphire eyes wound around a velvet collar band on my lady's gown , U IB made In three divisions , which slide oil tn such a way that it appears whole. Llttlo tablets set In diamonds are made with slides to fit on the velvet collar. Ruchlngs are In favor again and are to-be seen lit the greatest variety. A smart , dressy-looking vest -was mode recently of ruclilng , showing a framework of velvet tabs , the latter decorated with large tnctal buttpna and silver cord. Wide ruches of gaufro silk arc made Into rosettes , slightly concealed by tulle laps ruflles of butter color placed in between them. , r Some of the cotton materials for spring and summer gowns are especially lovely. Ono fabric shows a black checked pattern , the threads of which appear to be stitched upon the groundwork. Fancy , soft zephyr goods will be largely emplojed for making bliirt waists. A combination of cotton and burnished metal threads forms a liandsotno early spring fabric. A novelty In problems for the women -with too much flesh comes In a report from Pairs that In gowns of certain color * flesh seems to shrink , In others to expand , A nubduod shade of peacock blue , plum color and olive green , with black , of course , are announced as the colors under which flesh seems least ostentatious , whllo AVcdgcuood blue , paid gray and almost an5- shade of rod are to t e avoided sedulously. In the way of trimming * and light tints , orange , yellow , light 4iuo ) and cerise should not be uscil. Mauve and the higher 'tlrrts of green are the two color * that lu decoration about the threat and shoulders arc especially helpful la 'diminish ing the effect of fltsh. _