t V '
18 THE OMAHA DAILY BElBf "STTNDAT. 12 , 1807 ,
IN THE e
v < 43rsOJV3rv fOJ'ii iSi 3 N iASjgti > fo J yJ > Ss' : ' i1 * " vja > sjgy > Oivc r or < .Of > o\ 5
JSTO | |
' aumvi.vriiii KASIIIOXS.
Glorlo * itl tln > Hnllroniii , Showy Furx
n n it Ili-piirnletl I'roiitn.
NEW YORK , Dec. 9. It Is never an easy
matter to lay down the law with regard to
midwinter fashions , and yet If the Sunday
showa ot church paradcrs and the nightly
revels of dress nt the theaters prove any
thing , they go to show that violet and gray
are the favorlto coloro. Embroidery Is still
the popular garniture , and Infinite varieties
of the Husslan Mouse have almost effaced
everything else In the way of bodices and
Jackets. All the high-necked , long-sleeved
theater waists , for use with dark skirts , bet
ter known perhaps as fantaslo waists , are
made of whatever silk , or satin , taffeta , or
faille , every wearer's fancy or finances dic
tate , and the fronts thereof are overlaid
with blounca ot some gauzy goods elaborately
decorated with spangles.
The artful shopkeepers have the most
tempting fronts made up , fastened over silk-
covered dummy figures , and thus the eyes
of femininity are dazzled and their purses
betrayed. Such fronta as the ahops show are
usually of chiffon or tcsca net , or liberty
silk , and decorated with sunbursts , scrolls or
orabcaquca of oriental design , done In span-
Bins of every color , wax pearls , prettily
colored glass beads or cut steel bugles. Then
again thcro are fronts agllttcr with embroid
ery , done In gold and silver threads , or big
gilt and nllvcr spider webs with centers of
pearls or mock turquolec. At first sight
thcro Is undcnhbly an air ot hopeless ex
travagance about thcso fantastlcs of fashion ,
nnd yet they are not by nny means pur-
chccablo cnly by the millionaire women folk.
Ono pretty front can bo transferred from
bodlco to bodice , and with any kind of care
will do bright and beautiful service the win
ter through.
Everywhere It Is plain to see that the
Blender women are trying to force a revival
of the princess pattern , which Is naturally
abhorred of the stout , short sister. Many
fillm-walstcd girls and matrons are already
appearing in dark-blue or dark-green gran
ite or sultana cloth suits , hiving the front ot
the basque tight-fitting and decorated with
braiding la straight lines that continue on
down to the foot ot the skirt. Quito as
often , In place of the silk or wool lira hi , the
ornamentation Is done In narrow bands of
silk or satin , laid on flat , llko braid , but
edged with a very narrow tinsel cord. This ,
say the sharp dressmakers , Is to be the uni
versal trimming for new tailor suits In the
nprlng.
WOOL IS SUPREME.
Cloth , gowns chiefly for all cuve evening
occaslccas. It Is really surprising how llttlo
silk and velvet are worn by daylight. Cloth
ap"pcars on the most exclusive" and fash-
loaablo back , } for breakfast and luncheons ,
afternoon weddings and morralng musicals ,
and for evening concerts at which bats are
worn.
True. It Is usually cloth richly adorned
with the novel and handsome ton , sur ton
embroidery , the flowers In the design being
of wool and stuffed underneath , so as to
glvo a raised effect , while the * leaves are flat
Brad worked In silk of many co'.oro , or Just
ono tone. The skirts ot such suits are cut
so that , a scam runs directly down the frcnt
and the fullness behind IB sometimes laid In
two box plaits. The fact of the matter Is
tYiat the esam-down the front and the ex
periment of cuttlcg tbo cloth on the bias
is sure to become a very general fashion
before long. Without exception the plaid
cloth skirts are cut so , and in cloth of a
solid color. The two plaits at the back
are usually ornamented their entire length
with , tmccrlcs of black or dark braid. This
last achievement In. skirt cutting Is really
an unmixed blessing for the stout woman ,
for whom fashions arc so rarely designed.
Anything moro frightful , for Instance , than
a. portly matron In a Russian blouse is
hard to Imagine , end yet In a bias skirt ,
with slightly braided rear par < es , a basque
with a loose front , tight-fitting back and
( . Ides and square hip tabs , falling below a
very narrowly folded waistband , even a full
blown flguro comes forth , la excellent pro
portions.
A PARISIAN SENSATION.
It Is yet to 'be pi oven whether thcro Is
any reason In It , but the dressmakers ,
ceho'ag a report from Paris , say that In
govvta of certain colors flesh seems to shrink ;
la others to expand , and over th's smart
discovery the stout women are Jubilant. A
subdued shade of peacock blue , plum color
and ollvo green , with black , of course , are
announced aa the colors under which flesh
t'cems least ostentatious , while wedge-wood
blue , pale gray and almost any shade of red
nra to bo avoided sedulously.
Hero are the restrictions rod permissions
made as to wool goods , velvets and silks.
So far > DP latitude or constraint- have beep.
glvflU as to cottons , but In the way of trim-
mlng.j and. light tints , orange , jellow , light
blue B'fld cerlso should not be used. Mauve
.and the higher tints ot green are the two
colors that. In decoration abcut the throat
and shoulders , are especially helpful la di
minishing the effect of flesh.
But after all , for tru'o beauty ot form and
color , the evening gown this season la the
thing. Undeniably , for daylight Ufie , the
arosses , oven of the moat extravagant women ,
are growing every year more acid moro sober ,
but after the gas stars and electric sun of
the tall room , are up the glories of fomlalno
costume wrt > ear.
It Is dlnicult to give a realizing picture of a
vivid ccrluo under pcttlcat , for Instance ,
veiled la cream net , on which air background
three ftamy ruchlngs describe cpron-llke
curves , above n bordering foot frill , edged
with 6rso ! colbrod biby rlbbou. A roundly
open bodlco , veiled with net utd clasped with
a high folded \vaatbnnd ! ot satin , drawn Into
a bis bow on the left side , from which de
pend double trails of papples falling to the ,
licm , must next bo Imagined , aifd there you'
have a glowing , graceful , but not In the
east costly , dancing dress for a-tntss under 20.
PINK SATIN SKIRT.
An effort again must be made to gather n
mtcitn'l plctvro pf d- pink tatln skirt , qullo
round and severely plain. * ave for ono big
flashing artificial diamond fastened In front ,
Just abut midway between waist and foot.
t'Vom this , running out In every dlrectltn o\or
the skirt , radlato many wiving lines of silver
eraciglcs. It la as slmylo a scheme of decora
tion os can be thought of , yet It turns n
plain potttccat Into a very regal sort of gar
ent. With It la worn a o'nk ' bodice , Its
a'fttband drawn through a. mock dlamnd
buckle In front , its open threat draped In
cream lace , while on one shoulder Is fastened
a knot of rcses , from which , nearly to the
knees , falls a white chiffon ocarf , powdered
with pink silk rose petals.
By-the-foy , this shoulder start effect Is ro-
pcatocl again and again ontuo loveliest of
evening costumes. A net is the u.jual ma
terial and shoulder knots ot white lilac
fasten. ) It most often to tho.bodlco. Yet al
ways a note of dcmlnnnt color Is struck , In
thcso dauclng and dinner toilets , by the
flowers with which most of them ore set cff.
A favorite combination , with young girls
and matrons Irrespectively , la a white under-1
dress veiled In rather coarse black net , full ,
b'okand white ruchtngs of net at the foot , a ,
wldo" waistband of orange or cerise cslorcd |
crcpo do chine and long net cashes , falling
frm one shoulder , en which la set either a
cluster of vividly shaped * nasturtiums or
bright carnations. Crtipc de unlne and taffeta
are steadily taking the place ot velvet as
girdles , bo they wide or narrow , and , In place
of letting sash ends fall from the waist line ,
as was the mode hardly a moment ago , the
waistband ends on the lefi side 4n a bis
wheel-shaped bow of kilt ( .halted stiffened aet
or taffeta , or wired rabbit car ends of the
softer crepe.
crepe.AN
AN EVENING CLOAK.
It Is a luxury oven to discuss the evening
wraps of costly make , such na the accom
panying picture thla week exemplifies. A ca
nary yellow brocaded oatin forms the boiy
of this queenly garment , and throughout It1 ?
linings nro ermine , -with the shoulcor cape
formed very simply , but as elegantly , ot the
while fox skins , ono disposed over cither
shoulder , nnd the beautifully mounted heads
showing sparkling eyes of jackstone.
Though crmluo Is not tbo fcs'-lsnallo even ,
ing fur It was , lorcly ca.-es , bavins stole ectli
fringed with white foxtails , ate widely worn ,
and It Is r.o longer any cocret that fioai wi Ho
cats' fur and with dlscrestly "lycil lobby and
tommy tails the most admirable and Inex
pensive Imitation ermine Is made. What h
moro to the point , it Is very much worn and
any girl Is no'V entitled to wear an eraiiro
cape to dinners and parties.
It requires a long purse , however , to enjoy
the luxury of wearing garments of polar fox-
skin. A poor sort of substitute Is ottered to :
the anowy arctic fox fur In that of the -bis
western white rabbit. This does not make
up Into the long boas that rich v.omon rev ;
wear ever their equally wMte , shoulders of
un ovonlnR In place of oatrlolt feathers. Re
sides , a white foxj-boa should bo finished by
a cluster ot tails nt one end and a true fox'o
heart at the other , the eyea formed of such
semiprecious stones as jade , onyx , etc.
KNOCKABOUT .HATS.
It Is a far cry from luxurious evening
wraps to knockabout headgear , nnd yet a
word of commendation Is needed for the Irish
toques and 'Homburg hats that apjifal for ad
vertisement on all sides. So pretty and so
exceedingly reasonable are these that any
feminine bead can be charmingly crowned
for an absurdly small sum. If any -woman
has a knot ol pretty feathers of any klnl ,
coquc or ostrich , that she wishes to utilize ,
lot her step Into the hat Ktopartmcnt of her
favorlto shop .and buy a ready ibuilt no-.v
crush toque. She can find It In ; blue serge to
match her walking dress , or black velvet to
harmonize with her church gown. It lies on
the counter already draroJ and wrlnk'cd o or
Its frame , needlri ? only to bo ( pushed up on
the right or the loft side , a tall effect or rib
bon bows or feathers made there and the hat
Is ready to toe pinned on the owner's head.
A few stitches to merely fasten in her feath
ers an-J not more than ? 1 laid out In pur
chase of the toque , and her bead Is fit to bo
seen In any assemblage.
A Homburg Is a roue/I felt with a soft ,
dented crown , but a flat moderate brim , and
the crown Is encircled by a band of velvet
with a Knot ot 'bright ' pheasant feathers on
ono side. It la a sort of cousin to the Alpine ,
but sufficiently removed in relationship to
give It all the charm of novelty. As a rainy
day bat it Is without rivals , at. DAVIS.
PKOI'LW TvVMCKD AUOUT.
Stnrli * * of Jlr.x. .N'mini-ii , .John OIlvoV
Ilnlilx-K mill OlIii'i-H.
There Is not a more prolific aii'thcresa In
the United Statesami one wlio exorcises her
distinctive > talents less for sordid motives
than Mra. Van Rensselaer Cruger , otherwise
known aa Jtillcn Gordon.Mrs. . 'Cruger ' writes
because to use her pen and brains Is with her
a keen plc-aauie , and the plump and plenti
ful checks stnl her by her publishers are
chiefly devoted to philanthropic objects. Re
cently , however , the largo profits from one
of her latest novels has llred her with ue-w
ambitions , end , not very long PRO , t'io con-
EVENING WRAP OP BROCADE SILK.
eluded the puncb ) so of a charming bit of
rocks , trees and turf In among the famous
Thousanl Islands of the St. Lawrence. Here
In the course of tlmo U tiny villa Is to be
built and dedicated to the inusa at whoso
shrlno Mr * . Cruger woraMps. In fact the
Island Is to bo it &pfrcM retugo from social
cares nnd responsibilities , where the labors
of composition can bo pursued unlnterrnpt-
oJly. At "Idlcsso farm , " on Long Island
sound , she lives the greater portion of every
sear , entertains her friends , and looks out
now , from the windows of n. llttlo house In
the gardens , to the site -of 'the great colonial
mansion that was buiueA several year'so ,
and that Is to bo rebuilt , with all its or
iginal splendor , Intho coming spring ,
Why Dr. Nantes jlld make his notable lour
across the difficult , wc.l . nigh Impassible ,
Ice cap of Greenland was owing , 130 his
friends Insist , to two very Interesting rea-
eo2 ! first liecaiws It wts an expedition , that
promised all sorts of scicc.tlflc revelations
and a thoroughly untried path , but chiefly
because no had offered hlroiclf and his tor-
tun 0,3 to n brlllVut and beautiful yount ?
woman , who promlc'id ho should have her
oiftltcd position titid-'possess temperaments
too much llko her H to give lier that sense
of freedom from heftvjf court etiquette , demo
cratic Imlepomlehoo > nnd gay good nature
that the typical AhioHcnn woman docs not
hesitate to cxprrffl fccforo her.
A ktomllko Ice 'H ' as good to cnt as It Is
tempting to look Upon , and la the bold In
vention , of a fatnoUs New York caterer. It
Is In reality nothing I more thin a. roughly
shaped cake of rich Ido cream , cf any flavor
preferred , but so artfully tinted by a secret
process- that It shows , a deep gold color. Thla
big lump of frozen icreain , which Is ob
viously Intended to represent an Impossibly
big nugget of purest rough pold , Is encased
In an Inch-thick "covering " of crystal cle-jr
Jelly , which rlcnms and glitters at every
point with t r ipeclts of Kilt foil , until the
aspect Is qul * . lhat of a largo lump of the
precious irottil fror.cn Into Ice that Is also
full of gold chlfa. It Is the custom at din
ners now to pas3 ono big hlondlkc Ice about
His table or ecrvo to every guest a special
nugget with a , gold-sprinkled casing of clear
Jelly.
An American woman who saw theempresi
oP Germany end her regiment In review before -
fore the emperor confesses ! It was a be-iutlt'it
tableau. After long lines of men and officers
went 'oy , thcro was a sharp flourish of bugles ,
eight splendid men en gidy horses , In white
imlfccms , flashing helmets and cuirasses. roiSe
rapidly Into view. Four v.-cro in front and
four behind the empress , who roJo alone.
MOT horse bridle , twiddle and bablt wore pure
white. Over the brcuat of her silver licoil
riding jacket a row of medals gkamoJ , a sash
of royal drJor was draped over cno shoulder ,
two long white c-Hrlch glumes stroimtd back
ward from her llttlo cockud hot and In cno
wlilte-gloved Land she heU a shining drawn
flword , "Thero wis a tnuntsneous outburst
long step In the right direction. She will
seek nilvleo and sympathy , ami trust In
Judgment better1 than her own , and thus bo
saved from many mistakes.
To the "now girl" the house and Its ap
pointments nro strange , find the fear that
"sho will not suit" ndds timidity to her oilier
disadvantages , nmt she Is unable to do her
self justice.
If her predecessor has been a competent
servant , the mistress Is unconsciously un
just by conUat , seeing many shortcomings ,
and the outlook In very dishearteningj but
how often the new comer la an Improvement
upon the former Incumbent , If given tlmo
and a fair trial ,
"Dad luck to mo ; It's only six months I am
In Amerlky , nnd It's slvcn places I've had , "
said a. good-natured , Ignorant Irish girl , re
cently , nnd yet halt a year Is not such a very
long time In which to chnngo one's whole
manner of life , and without the old of edu
cation and trained powers of reasoning ,
The mistress should remember during the
training period that It Is not sensible ? to ex
pect from thcso girls nentnoss and quick
adaption to ways ot refinement , nlco cooking
and Intelligent service.
It should also bo remembered that there Is
another and n brighter aide to this. Under
p. firm and gentle teaching , trying as It Is to
thn nerves nnd patience of the mistress ,
theao Rlrls , wltli their uncouth ways , become
excellent sonants In many Instances , and
repay by their faithfulness nil the efforts
mi do In their behalf.
The mald-of-all-wotk , whoendcavorlnc ;
"to do my best , mum , " filled the lamps from
the water cooler In her oirly days of domes
tic service , became , with Instruction and
consideration , "a Jewel , " tlasscd among the
"treasures" wo constantly scelc yet so rarely
obtain. In her caao a poor Beginning made
o good ending , but It took a. great amount
of patlcnco and faithful torching on the
sp ct
I
j
tit.
. .
D-HATORY J.o ; EOUTCG.
heart and hand ES seen : n ever ho maJo
himself famous. Th'j would have been a
cruel eondltlm tirder which to p'2o any
other man , but It merely decided the yun
Norweglco to carry out his air.tlt'ous
project. He crceaeJ Orcenlacd iicd claimed
his bride who , so her fKen&i say , ws.-j ab
solutely r.otlaficd with thsl aracunt ct Jzicc ,
ted could scarcely bring horsc-lf to ihten to
the project that bright her hui'iaad ' world
wide celebrity. After bo had go-.c- , however ,
on his long voyage sbe vailed for a > ear wllh
theerllul patience , uctll Ihcro came a report
of bis retuin and , when ths ! wca proved
fae ! , all 'Mrs. Narscci's " glrllh ytarnls
attar ftmo wfii iv.vallowed"up In dcspa'r.
At length her family decided It wr ? be&t
for the young wife If her husiacd's ESIEO
was cevcr mentioned buforo her , but , with
llttlo Llv , It was meat difficult to use cny
allonclns persuasion. She whhcd to talk ol
her papa constantly , xntll her baby pciuap-
tlora were , made to see that at every man-
tlco of h'o came her mother ( suffered acutely.
Jlontlfaftcr month patsed by nnd Llv kept
her promUs bravely , until one morning ,
racsU = B her mother In the garden , she- ran ;
up , gleefully exclaiming , "JMpa's cam'iig
home , napa'a comlnc home. " Teita auJ i
remonBtrtrcM had no clfcct co tha chl d ,
and to ! and behold ! not a halt dczcn hcurn
alter her confident assertion word ran along
the telegraph wires all over JJurspc tint
Dr. Nansca end li'a ono companion were
prided safe nnd caucd In Norway ,
Miss Murfrco has never explained why
she chose- Charles Rgbert Craddock as the
(1'ugulso under which so absolutely tnd EO
long to decolvo the readies public as to her
.isx. Mrs. Crcvu admitted she tCDk the name
of George 1511 oil fora uhlin and because nhe
thought It bid a thoroughly simple msscu-
line sound , but Mrs , Cralgle confecs s that I
the noin de plume Jotn Oliver Hobhoa was
put together with design and care. Since
her very earliest otlrrlcgo of literary anvb- !
tlon were felt , she Intended to wrlto under
the narao John because It waa her father's
acd aho dearly loved and reverenced It.
Oliver she chose because of her great ad
miration for Cromwell , who leap was cher-
lihed aa her favorlto hero , and Hobbes waa
tnkeo ES the moit typically Anylo-Sixon
suroimo she could find. Recently Mra.
Cralglo has announced to her friends that
all questions of religious doubt have been
for her acawered by the Kom&ci Catholic
church. Her profession of faith followed a
long lllneEB , after which the was visited
and Instructed by a friendly priest , and at
length found conviction ,
One ot the keenest admirers of the wit
and beauty ot American women Is her royal
highness , tbo duchess of York. This whole
some , good-natured royal lady , who la as
plain of face aa she Is stolid ot mind , gener
ously envies the graces and charma of Undo
Sam's daughters , and docs not hesltato to ox-
prees and demonstrate most heartily her
preference for American women at all times i
and places. In her the young duchess of
Marlborough has found a warm partisan.
At York house , near Sandringham , In the
old palace of St , James , the future queen of
England opens her doors hospitably to the
American wives ot the British peers , and ono.
ot her most Intlmato friends Is Hon. Mrs.
Paget , who was tbo beautiful Mlas Stevens
of New York. The duchess. Indeed , carries
Mrs. Puget with her on alt her trips and
visits through the realm , and asks In return
for her hospitality and favors the bright con
versation and gay presence of the American
woman. As with many another well-trained ,
well-educated and kludly Ungllsh woman ,
the duchess Is a. rather silent person , not
possessed of very good taste In drees , and ,
llko most royal ladles , aha Buffers cruelly
from boredom that routine and formality ol
tier etato and position Impose upon her. The
women of Ji r own race fe l too deeply her.
o ! i : > ! tso as ' . ) cvAit sv/l tly by , " u.i- i..a
A'jic.-Ican wcnjan wio tew t all , s.nl t-nv ,
t-o , she sail , tbs fl-y yilsns en : > r-Tr'n . ' " 2
ic-'ix fcri mair.cat , 03 ' .vail It inlcht , at tho'
clsht cf his v/lte'.i giacc.ul rifeuio , K _ < . nil''n ' ?
f.ic and her px-ect contr.-l a tec animal she
ro2e. Njvrai'i s , t. > it t'.erc re no mi-o
bal , 03 to clc'm har hr.iriy attention , and
tscst of hr > f Irysaro at iisliool , tbo cmyresa
r ; 03 with heIiuib.nJ on iK.irly rl his ta'-va
about Gersnanjyrnd at every unvclilug ; sh'p'a
liimclvng , mlll'.cry rcvlsw or dedication nho
talseo a small but attractive iart. Jt was In
tbo city ct' Hac-ver , not leas clnoevhfn th3
rovl r lr unveiled a sf.tuo the sanse day a
j bis German steam.1 was liunched. Avrangc-
, jcats wcvo n-adn thit by plsu-ona ns\vs ot tis !
jlavuchins rtculd i)9 srut the em..orcr. In
j whiic. as us-'il , tbo empress fctooJ nlono and i
j nther conspicuously , whl'o her husbsnd re-1
i vler/cd a. body cf trc is. All -Jt one ; a fljck
of whlto ana K''iy i/g > sns bivtot over the
heeds of the cr v.'d , nit to thcl. " Inma lot ,
but directly It v.hero the cmrrcr.a stacfi , and
icettlcJ , flutter tig and coons , on her ,
i
jsl' ulaera , nrma cad hands. Tic pretty als'it
v\cs taj much for tUo scntlmcatal Germans , i
who fell ci-uiecrlas vljoroualy. j I
This la the true story ot how an American ] j
vorcan 'Sou ' pi t , of tl'n o' 'o- Worth , a , very
gjjgeoui gottii a'l o'r.bi f to y dito'n'ed 1th
onb'.o tf I's , for tery 'Ittlo mo o auJ wo'-tt-
Uoj of the teat KuntucLwhl'ty , vYorth '
v.-ns a Scotchman , ivhosa principle was never i
to sell anylhlnjf cl'ecp to en American 1
woman , therefore hi ensok hU licad po l-
tlvoly at tin ? in Ice a Icdy from tro states pro.
posed to glvo for n epoclal arrangement In
sablea and 'bluovolvrt. ' . nrd the went homo
pathcth tM' < dlffcourngcd to her hotel and her
husband. Her J usband , contrary to a 1 ) ro-e-
Uont , refused to lucreaso her chcckr but ho
> promlsed to help her , and tbo next day , an
odd looking iparcol'tudor Ills arm , Jrovo with
htn wife to the famofcs establishment on the
Rue do la PaK. There wna n pleasant prl-
vato IntervlowiwltU'Uis pecjlhir old maa jnll-
llnor , who otlll ) % ti ) > cd to do nil the lady
wished. "When rising to leave , however , her
husbanS .placed pn .the tsblo two tall bottles
ot Kentucky ryoiantl pleasantly ntked Mr.
Worth to try the whisky and give an oplaloiv
of Its merits. Tfcn next day came a queer
llttlo note from .the , , old gentleman. Ho
begged to say ltwpuld bd hla greatest pleasure -
ure to supply all .tliq , velvet and sables 'Mad-
nmo wanted nnjl . did monsieur have any
more of the very excellent whUky , whl h had
been tasted acd found quite celestial , nnl of
which iMr. Worth'iwould llko to purchase nt
once n dozen ikdltlea ! 'Hardly ' had thla note
ibeon received wfcen "round came a big box
containing the goVn.1 a dream of fur and velvet -
vet , done In AVbVth's ver'best style , and
along with It a ftotb from the son of tbo
great dressmaker * It wan an entreaty , a com
mand , that not another drop of the fatal
whisky bo sent to the old gentleman , who
hail already disposed ot [ both bottles , taken
to his bed , and , by tbo aid of two ph > stclara ,
might ho carried through a spell of such pro
found Inebriety na only a Scotchman can as
sume and -hopo to como out of alive , The
dress was a bargain , It was true , but the
lady's satisfaction In It waa tempered by
tunny ponga of conscience , and the husband
felt Justified In writing ( Mr. Worth a tarra-
diddle to the effect that lie had no jnoro
whUky of that brand Dearer than hla cellars
In Chicago. _ _
TUAI.VING THIS
null Ailvlcc an < iii Imiior
itunt IIuuKchuia Subject.
Although , great stress la laid upon the im
portance of care In engaging the help , the
treatment and tbo training of a servant
after a good selection bos been made Is
equally Important.
To convince a girl that her happiness and
wclfaro ore ot Interest to her minuets la a
nm u ! the- mistress to accomplish this.
And In oonnocJioa v.lih thq careful train
ing , the ; nlstii'4s must chow some conalJeta-
tlos lor thfi Kiil.i. atvcll ss lor her own
"ilaktu. " if she la to evp jt the faithful
servlco that IR tlinra of emergency will
ofi'rr to pcrtonn Ju.lCJ nc > ' . iequlr--J &t Jier
cervices In many Jii3tan ca ttal money cau
no : sacu'p , out cnly the klnnncss and csn-
cldrraitcn on tie ) > irt of the mistrct .
A CL-iiiiortEible loom and "bod should be
classed cmorg Uiroo "rlshls. " Early Us
ing Rii'J ' ec-niAant ; labop sro Olio dally portion
ot-the avc-rogu ylrl , and the very best inan-
as.-tncnt c : nnot cava hsr from fatigue. Rcat
anj s.ln-f > are natuie's best icstDrers , and
a thoughtful mistress will furnish the
rciul.ilUs . to till * end ,
Ami'hcr "rlsiat" la a regular time and day
for recreation. When a girl has her friends
'jnO hsrr l.orno an.1 her outslilo plans and
cny'.hlii } : Intt-rftrca with thffio plans when
the anxlou3ly-loc'i6'.1-or ! " ( .ay on" ' arrives ,
her < llsap.PonfmMH ! IH bitter , anj cfteu vcn-a
ItsalC In fany , Impatient words ; and then
wo say sin la Impudent , bet whose fault Is
U ? No infilnsemqnt ciiould ibo made upon
thin Ktlpnla-.ei ] diy of reerctrii ! unless cir-
cumitancta lender It cbpolutoly necessary ,
'ar.l ' In that erto It should lie naked as a
fivnr siiil rewirjpj In eonio way , for , attei-
all. It U these Becmlngly "llxlo thing. } " < hat
nic-sn tha most In careful tialulug and
faVthful service.
si'.un : TIIIC imtns.
'J'lir I'fiir.lty .VlnnKliKf I'IIJN lo Cmdfy
I'Vmlnlno Viinlty.
The ? Audubon ooclf-ty or Now York Is uj/
In arms asslnat thp fall and winter mllllnory
now dlcplayoj In abop windows and on the
, hcnds of the womeru of that city. A public
(
'meeting for pio'ost has been held. Fiank
M. Qliapmen , dhcusslng the matter with aNew
Now Voik Sun rcjwter , said : "Tlireo things
lac lo Ihh publl : meeting which the
,
PINK SHOT , SILK.
O
society held. rirst , the ncrwse < l two ot
Mrtls for millinery purpose ! lias aroused MS
to renewed cltortii In behalf f the feathered
raco. Next , n prevailing < * ad fnr-roachlnR
sentiment which Is cropplnR up against thla
barbarous fashion oulsldo tlo ranks of the
Audubon society , and , lost tnil. . the throat
mnJo by n woman signing horaclt 'A. n. C' . , '
to form an nntl-Auilubon society In n letter
to A morning paper.
"Ainons the birds most worn this winter
are the herons , which nro killed for their
aigrettes , the terns , or sea swallows , and
Bulls ; In short , mostly mursh nml maritime
birds. Aside from any qiiootlou of humanity ,
the fact exists thnt these birds are ot great
economic vnltio. Dr. Ocorgo- . dimmer ot
Yucatan stated to mo tlmt the hilling of a
great number of thcso shore birds has been
followed by nn Incroioo In human mortality
among the Inhabitants of the coast , which
lie la assured Is a direct result ot the ilo-
ctructlon ot birds that formerly assisted In
keeping the bc.ncliw nnd bnyoua trco from
decaying animal matter ,
"Tho gulls arc not popularly supposed to
bo ot any real service to nvmlclnd , but as
the buzitards. whoso use la s ? evident that
they are vrotectcd by law ca well ns by
public sentiment , are eixivcrisora of the land ,
so > tbo gulls are equally useful AS scavengers
of the sea.
"Tho dead marine enlmals , which , It un-
devoured , would be east upon the shore and
hi decajing- prove a soureo of disease , form
e. largo lurt , cf the food of tlic gulls. This
Is incdt forcibly Illustrated by the gulls In
lower Now York bay , which In myriads como
each day at high , tldo to ifeod upon the fir-
bago which Is dumped by the scows. Tacy
are eo thick that < ho scows are sometimes
completely cut off from the vltw of a pcr-
s-on on the tug towing them , and although
the tlmo for .taking . the garbage down de
pends on the tides , and thua varies sevcr.it
hours from Oay td day , thn gulls are always
on hanil at the right : hour , though not one
Will bo In sight a halt hour before .that tlmo.
"Mirth birds , for example , herons , ilrc of
particular value In feeding the tarvao of In-
tectfl itbut make man's llto burdensome. New
Orleans had a plague of bugs about the mld-
dlo of September , just veitho \ yellow fever
epidemic begin , and , strange ns H may seem ,
the bugs proved f.Jr . more troublesome tuan
thn dlseaso to the people , nnd certainly the
annoyance was mere Immediate. The plague
was generally attributed by the people of
that city to two causes , one natural , the
other duo to man. The scientists down that
way snld that the mystery of itho bugs \vws
n mystery at all , but merely the result of
man's Improvidence In destroying the birds.
The destruction has been going on In
Louisiana , particularly on t'ho ' gulf coast , for
ycats. and has been carried en by profes
sional hunters , who. kill the bjrds solely fcr
millinery purposes. There Is moreto be
made by shooting birds for bonnets thin by
shooting them for table use. Ni..turo re-
\cnged herself on New Orleans , and ao she
will on every place where marsh , and marl-
time birds ore destroyed -wholesale.
"Thin woman who prcpssed to form an
antl-Andubcn society declared that our so
ciety carried Its goo.l Intent nnd work to
buch an extreme tbrt many reasonable ivo-
mcn who are Inclined to aid Its course are
debarred from having the privilege. She ,
llko a great many women , la wolully Igrorant
concern'iig the declaration cf principle of
the Audubon society. 'We ' nro not a coercive
body ; our work Is entirely educational. The
ccclcty uukca no iMlempt 'to secure leglsla-
tln for the protection of burds , for wo al
ready have very excellent laws for the pro-
tcotle-n of song birds arO many birds of
economic value. What wo aim to do Is to
create a public sentiment that will enforce
the existing laws. A law Is a dead letter un-
ICDJ there -Is ccntlment to uphold It , nnd 10-
CCO laws favoring the protection of birds
will do no good iis long as women demand
thorn for their personal ndsniment.
"The scclaty lias strong Slopes of rcoch'ng
ths younger [ generation , and we are de-
llghlcd to have the cordial .belp of State Sp-
perlr-tordcnt Skinner In establishing bird day
In the schools In ccnnec'tlo-n ' wllh 'Arbor Cay.
No leglslithu Is necessary 'to do this , and
M.1. I'ltlnner writes me ths.t early In the
joir he s-1all prerr.To his usual Arbor day
manual , devoting a section fit It to birds ,
snl irvlll publish an edition ] of 100,000 copies
for distribution amor ( ho. sc-ioola of the
Etato. " '
PnslilniiH mill Knurl < , .
Many of the deml-tralncd dress skirts are
cut with nine gores and at the "back some
nro sbox-ploated nnd others fan-plentcd.
A great number of the now coats arc
made decidedly longer than any worn last
Reason. Very tall , slender women may con
gratulate themselves on the change.
Tnu pleated round waist and the full Rus
sian blouse waist contest for ifavor with the
numberless chic 'little coat basques , very
aboit , very smatt nnd ery much trimmed.
Of ribbons alone are made very charming
girdles , bretelles , vests , gulmpes , surplice
waist front , Jacket-fronts , panel pieces ,
flchus , puffs for slashed sleeves , Wousrs , col
lars , cuffs and llttlo moucholr muds or chat
elaine.
Oerruan broadcloth In dark 'Russian ' red ,
or the favorite Muo shade of the winter , Ic
noteJ amoD3 elegant models In redlngotcs
and other enveloping garments of the sea
son. Some of the very expensive wraps are
lined throughout with fur.
Otvl and pheasant plumage are still In the
mllincry world. It Is not uncommon to ace
en owl's head with spread wings used whole
luii.uu ornamcniaiion ci a nai. ui course ,
them Is no room for any other kind of trim-
rains.
Among the handsome Imported gowns ceen
nt some recent openings several wore of
black chantllly loco , embroidered with steel
or Jot aequlns and beads nud made over
black satin. It la predicted that lace cos
tumes will bo much worn In Paris next
jear. >
Kvenlng toilets show stylish loops and
ends of ribbons on the shoulders , the loops
alone , or mingled with .airy frills of pleated
silk muslin. The half-low bodlco shows the
still popular Wattoau bow ot medium-wide
ribbon , placed between the shoulders at the
backa , the ends falling low on the dress
cklrt.
Some now silks sho-w a white ground with
colored garter snakes and earthworms gildIng -
Ing along and casting queer , Ions sluUowu.
Other grounds are strewn 'with ears of corn ,
the ratural size , great tufts of grass , bimclioa
and trails of Ivy , all giving the most blzarro
effect. Ono will need to train one's eclf up
to them.
In 1'arlo fur Is being slightly gathered
Into deep frills and flounces and placed on
the hems of heavy winter gowns , cloth capes
and wraps. The effect Is novel and pleasing ,
Otter , beaver and gray astrakhan are among
the fashionable'furs , and groba Is also being
much used , though It has been out of favor
for several years.
The simplest and perhaps the most fash
ionable bodlco for evening wear Is tbo full
blouse shape of chiffon , drooping ever a fitted
bilk lining , the top cut In square or round
ing fashion , with a full tulle ruch , a irarrow
band of fur , a fall of lace or headed rovers to
finish the edge. The sleeves consist ot short ,
full puffs similarly trimmed.
I'or ball and reception' gowns Immense jac-
rimrd | designs are shown on grounds of
mnlro , peau de solo and faille. The most
jiotlceablo colors are palo lilac and delicate
gray. In such fabrics as taffetas , broches ,
damasses , failles ar/J brocades , Lilac Is seen
In every shade , from the lovely , soft pansy
Violet to the palest hollotropo ,
The rage for woven trimmings very closely
copying -the most Intricate and dainty hand
embroideries In shaded effects Is lr > : reaslng
rather than diminishing and Invontlva ccnus |
Is continually exercised to maintain a variety
ot patterns , lillk , arrascone Persian beads ,
cut steel , Jet , tiny Roman pearls and creamy
opals , sapphires and other glittering mock
jovvolu are each and1 all employed.
A beautiful foreign-made lllao capote re
cently seen had a double brim composed ot
chenlllo woven with horsehair. AVhere there
were depressions in the two brims , rosettes
of lllao eatln were placed. The full velvet
crown was held by a band and satin rosette ,
and wan shaped llko a Polish cap , the long
point being at ono ulrto , with a cluster of
black prlnco ot Wales feathcra. The strings
were of narrow black velvet ribbon.
There la something always eminently rich
and lady-llko In the appearance ot lustrous
corded silk , bo the color black , gray , fawd ,
moss green , plum tints or cream whlto. This
winter these repped silks are prc-nmlncntly
fashionable. , together with onuny other ma
terials -\voven \ In similar corded effecto. The
circular , kilted and "prlncouso " outlines which
fashion now favors are particularly adapted
to these rich materials ,
Olyen a Russian name and almost any ar
ticle ot wear U 'largely patronized. A woolen
brgcade called 'Uluscovlto reps" i * a fash-
lonablo material ot a rather closely woven
1 i
Boston Siora Drug Dipt.
We carry ti full Hue of
Mine. Ynlo's Celebrated
Health Remedies
AND
Toilet Preparations
We recommend their
grent merit and cmlorso
their purity.
SPECIAL CUT PRICES THIS WEEK
The Very Mont < hpVorlil
. Her Our
I'rlee.l'iles
Itixlr Tonic , rcntor-M the Imlr nnd riop *
It from falling out. . . , . .51.0) , c
Hnlr Cleanlier , for nlmmpnolnR 1.00C9
rrultcurn ( for female uraKncrs ) . , , , , . , . UN , ni
Iwi Krcckln ( for frccklOK ) l.oo , C8
SUIn 1'nol ( email , \\Tlnk.os ) 15) 119
Hklll | i-\ > oil ( InrKf ) S.W 223
Hunt rood ( small , for developingneck. .
bunt anil iimu ) , , . , , , l.M 119
llust roo.1 ( larno , 3.00 ZK )
Complexion nice Powder. Ilirco shade *
lilnk , white , brunette . . . , , , CO ,23
Complexion Soup 15 ,15
Complexion lllpnch ( for moth fpntclic *
nml liver fintn ) 2.CO 1,73
Complexion Cronm ( for noftcnlng nn.l
ronnln the Mi In ) l.co , C9
Hyplnsh Orowor ( proniutliiK growth ot
thecrrbronu nnd Innlics ) , , , . . . , j.oo ,
flpcclnl I/otlon dilmnle cure ) . , , , l.wl , fl
Siieclol Olntment ( black heiul rule ) . . . . ICO , tt
llloo.l Tonic ( initiryliiR the Mooil ) 1.00 , U
Ilnml Wlilttnvr ( nmUlnn tlm liands fiQtl ,
ilollonto nndvliltc ) , , , l.to M
nilxlr of lleauty ( skin tonic ) 10) )
Majtlcnl Secret ( for softening water. " . . . 1.5J 1.19
Oroat Soatt „ c.OI 3.49
Orent Scott ( small ) i.w
.luck Koso lyenvi's ( llqulil rouge ) , . . . 1.00
Jack llo e Jluds ( lip sntve ) 1 CO .63
Mice linntnel , wlilto nml pink I. , ' . ) 1 19
Kjclirow Pencils , .S3 .IS
Fertilizer ( for oonstlUQtlon ) , l.to l.U
Mole nml Wnrt Kxlrnctor ( Inrse ) 3.00 2.2J
Mole nml Wnrt ixtmctor ( pnmll ) 1 0) )
Lily SKIn Wliltciifer , 1 00
likln Uellnec l.W
( 'ornplcxlon llrush , . , . . 1.09
Ynlo s Antiseptic l.'O ' .W
Yulo'g UlResllviTnblctB ( for Indiges
tion , etc. , Inrjce flr-e 1.09
Yule's nieBl\c ( ( Tnbtcta ( for Indiges
tion , etc. smnll flze M
Yule's Complexion Tablets , InrKO pile. . l.CO
Ya'os' Complexion T l > lels , nnnl | Rlze. . ,5t
Yule's I'crtlllztr Tablets , large alzs . . . . 1.00 .03
Yalo'8 1'citlllser Tablets'small Blso . . . . .CO
Beauty Souvenirs
\V'e will present every ladjcaltlns at our dr ff
tlepaitmcnt with Mme. Yn'o'a two scientific
books , entitled "Woman's Wlnlom" nnd "Jlook
to IJeauty" They contain ndUrp from Mme.
Yale on the subject of Health and lleauty tliat
cannot be obtained fioin nny other source.
corded fabric and Is an old acquaintance , bo-
liiff the liandsomo durable empress cloth of
other days under a new title. A treasured
travel Ing dress of a 'bride ' of two generations
ago shows a rich color In brown cmprosa
cloth almost Identical with the shade now
shown In the now "Muscovite reps , " and the
wool Is as soft and the cords quite as smooth
and flno as the modern 'weave.
1 'ciiil n I iie I
A queoa who hulata on going barefootc-J
Is her majesty of Madagascar. All the same ,
u'he ' wcais the most expensive of Parisian
toilettes ,
Mrs. Glitch cf Denver drives about the
city In a light wagon drawn 'by ' an ostrich.
She Is the only uomaii in the world who
dwns a zcjloglcal garden.
The queen of Houmanla has boon made
a doctor of philosophy by the University of
IJudapest , and the queen of Portugal la a
doctor of medlclae.
Mrs. Francis E. Wlllard , who la living In
Chicago , says that "among the things that
women of the prcse-at day require Is larger
shoes. "
v Mrs. Eunice Davis , who la living 'n Dod-
liam , Mass. . Is the oldest woman abolitionist
In the United States acd the only surviving
member ot 'tho Woman's Anti-Slavery boira
of Boston.
Mk's Columba Rivera has bce.a licensed as
a practicing ; physician and appointed to tlio
women's ard of St. Andre's hospital , In
the City of Mexico. SheIs the drat woman
In Mexico to t < s appointed such a posi
tion.
tion.Mlts
Mlts Evatlma Tard'o , the younpr woman
who has attracted so much scientific atten
tion abroad on account ot a total aljaorco of
touch , has also been found to possess com
plete control over the circulation of her
blood , which Bho can cause to stop flow u > t
will.
will.A
A movement Is on * foot In St. I ouU to secure -
cure a medal of honor from congress tor
Mrs. Dellna Hoberts , who saved twenty-two
wounded soldiers during the war by carrying1
them , ono at a tlmo , to a boat , through a
shower of bullets.
They were seated nt a late dinner , siya
What to I2at , when the door bell rang , and
the servant handed a card to Jones' wife.
"Good srncloua ! It's our minister , and I'v '
been eating onions ! " she exclaimed. "Never
mind , " said Jones , "you need not kiss him
today. "
Mrs , Prank Leslie has contributed ? j,000
to tbo ftiicl of the American National Insti
tute. The object of the Institution Is to
found a homo for yours American students
of art , music or lltemturo In Part ? , to which
both sexes are to 'bo ' admitted. Mrs. Leillc'a
gift swells the aura to $25,000.
Governor William O , Hradley's only daugh
ter , Miss Chrystyno , who has been chosen
sponsor for the now battleship Kentucky ,
will bo IS years old on December 20. She Is
a remarkably bright girl , Is an accomplished
musician , has a taste for literature , has a
will of her own and Is one ot the moot
charming members of Kentucky society ,
Virginia nuwspapers are urging Sonitora
Daniel and Martin to eccuro a pension for
Mrs. Scmplo , the only surviving daughter ot
President Tyler. It Is quoted as a precedent
that ten years or so ligo a pension v/ca
granted Mm. William I > anilrldK ° , also a
daughter of President Tyler , whirl ) ponnlon
was twlco Increased In the last flvo ycara.
Mrs. Scniplc , It la stated , la now an Inmate
of the Loulso home. The daughter ot a
president , she IB also allied by tlex of blood
to tlirco other presidents ot the United
States , being a cousin to President Monrou
and of Benjamin and William Henry Harri
son. She In uradually growing blind.
The queen of the Dcl lana and the Princess
Clemcnttno recently called at a ( arm housu
and asked for a glans of milk , Nobody but
an old paralyzed woman was In the bouse ,
and eho replied that no milk was left In thu
jugH , and that she was unable to go to mlllt
a cow. "Mover mind , " said the queen , "If
you will allow mo , I will go to thu pasture.
Just tell mo where the Jugs are , " "Dut , my
dear woman , you are from the town , and
you will never bo oblo to milk a cow , " ob
jected the old woman , She was , however ,
mistaken , for a llttlo later her majesty re
turned with a half-filled Jug , Meantime ,
I'rlncew Clomcntjno had laid on the table
three bowls , a loaf and the needful knlve *
and plnUH. The old farmer's wlfo wan
served by Iho princess , who , It appears ,
greatly eujoycd the adventure ,
, <
IlUIIMCIlOlll ( JtlllN ,
The ancient dreolfs believed that the
Penates < wcro the gods who attended to the
welfare and prosperity of the family. They
were worshipped OB household gods In every
homo. The household god of today la Ir ,
King's New Discovery. For conBUir.tHloa ,
coughs , colds and for all affections of Throat ,
Chest and Lungs It la Invaluable , It haa
been tried for a quarter ot a century end I *
guaranteed to euro , or money returned , No
household should -without this good ungel.
It Is pleasant to talco and a eafo and sura
remedy for old And young. Free trial bottles
tles at Kuhn & Co.'a drug store. Ilegular
nlzo COc and $1,00.
Wilbur L. Anderson of Lynn , 'MassTleadcp '
of the Hollncu band , has not ( May 3 , 1803 , ua
the day for the resurrection of the dead ao.4
the translation of the ealuU.