18 THIS OMATTA DAILY IHillSt fSJJNDAY , KO-V ISMBISn 28 > 1307.
iiu < jiii
imns.sixo TIII : IIAIII ,
fWnvrN finil roniiniiloitr , Curl * nnil
I.IIOIIN , Midi .IcMclli-il OriiiiiuciilN.
NEW YOKK , Nov. 2fl. Drets the hair high
'by ' night nnd low ) by day Is the no\v < rule to
comb by Just now. A well wuved nnd
pompadoured head still commands ndmlrn-
tlon , but -there mint bo DO exaggerated lift
ing of hair back from the brow , and the
pompadour Is never worn with a Victorian
bonnet. It Is a mode of head decoration re
served rather for occasions without bonnets ,
for on the street women eccm to prefer an
arrangement low on 'the head.Vllh the
poke bonnets all the hair La parted neatly
from forehead to crown , drawn down over
the car tlpj and massed Hat at the back , well
down toward the nape and fastened with
largo shell plus.
Sometimes a couple of finger long ringlets
nro'Ullowcd'to s-trny out behind the ears , an !
almost Invariably the broad sweei > s of linlr , to
cither sldo of the part , are crisply waved , by
the aid of hot Irons If nature ctnnot be re
lied Upon. So placed , the hair not only
accepts , but supports a Victorian bonnet , and
thU arratigomcnt Is In picturesque accord
with the lieadgcar Itself. Nona the less ,
( however , are a quantity of combs used with
every method of iialr dressing , and one large
comb , having not moro than three shell
itcoth and topped by a long , slender crescent
of bright Imitation Jewels , Iri now almost an
Invariable ornament. . This Innt can toe so
adjusted us to add a ( Inner foundation whcr.
n hat Is worn , or aniwor as a glittering deco-
ratlco when the hat Is removed.
EVENING COIFFURES.
A enug llguro eight braced on all sides by
tucking or circular combs Is still a popular
fancy with roiml walking hats , hut of an
evening the hair must go up nr high as pos
sible. These whose locks arc not either
liuoyant or abundant depend , nnd wisely , on
the very lovely ornaments sold In the shops
or fabricated by their own artistic lingers to
complete the light towering effect so nrdcntly
striven after. Hut as a matter cf fact , 11
all evening occasleos the heads arc profttsoly
decorated. The one- lofty ostrich feather of
last winter's favors Is now substituted by a
skeleton bow cf wrinkled wired ribbon , or n
tuft of unusually lull mixed black and wiiUo
osprey plumes.
These arc plr-citcd rtlrcctlj on the crown ,
just where the bunch of curls or lociis of
lialr are brought to a point , tied and forced
Howard. The side hair Is elaborately curled
or waved , arranged to give a bandeaux effect
( to right and left , and a few light tendrils
fringe out on the forehead. Women who have
nn abundance- h.ilr loop It loftily and
then , for the theater or evening at homo ,
ulaco In the center two or three very short ,
close , curled ostrich tips , springing from a
knot of bright velvet. The lips arc usually
black or white. Besides these things the hair
dressers ecll the commonplace , long-pronged
J-'lrolns. with stllllv upstamllm ; wired bows
of coral red , burnt oiungo yellow or tur-
cuolso blue satin ribbon , fastened onto them
us pretty bits of color to wear abaut the
house.
FOR T11K THEATER.
At the theater a It Is notice-able that besides
the many shell olns and combs shining in
every head. Jeweled hair clasps are exten
sively and prettily used. Some of these are
ns big as belt buckles , all gracefully wrought
out of mock clones upon a gilt or silvered
lllagreo foundation , and caught In the full
ness of the rear locks just at tlie point where
the IOCCB and curls begin to turn. Quite as
frequently used , too , are double Jewel Htuddel
fillet bands that catch 'across ' the frcot of the
head by , a , series of little teeth , these lasi ,
niado of rhlnestones- Imitation cabochon
opals , that are not , by the way , supposed to
possess any of the properties of ill-luck.
Now that heads are so elaborately arranged
nml decorated no woman ever thinks of weir-
Ing a hat during the play and because few
liata are built to be worn without crushing a
high hair arrangement , the wisest daughteis
of Eve wqar no hats at all , ovcti to the pk y.
Whether they arrive at the play liouso in
carriage or horse car , theT ! pretty heads are
covered by big flat caps of lace and muslin ,
cither black or white , that have sash-like
strings to knot and swalho all about the
throat.
Such a theater head scarf Is apt to be home
made , either of chiffon , silk muslin or liberty
Bilk , and when the wearer of one is settled in
her chair she carefully lifts her head free
of Its soft covering and allows the pretty ,
fluffy scarf to fall about her shoulders. There
nro few of the short fur , silk or cloth capes
worn to the play tl'-it do not dlsii'.ty a cluster
of bright artincial Mowers fastened on the
loft shoulder , If not en her little cape , then
the playgoer pins a tuft of purple velvet
orchids or ncarlet geraniums on the shoulder
of her gown. Still another Importantly pretty
Item of theater dress Is the tan for glasses
which Is now made of brocaded ribbon , gath
ered Into a gilt top , supplied with double
chains and a hook to fasten In the belt.
Yet a more expensive bag Is of yea green or
rky blue suede ; a square , generous reticule ,
gathered with gilt cords at the mouth , where
I'WK NET WITH HII1HON TRIMMING.
stately afternoon affairs. M every marriage
of Importance so far velvet has been the
prcdoinlncnt material , The plain velvets
have made little way before the inroads of
Ibat woven In bayadere stripes and foronzo
frown and sapphire blue are the cliwen col.
on.
on.Tho
The ultlmato jiolnl of fashleaablo elegance
la reached In the blurt or brown velvet gown
embellished with bauds of fur , alaska Bible !
mink , or thn Decked otter. No short-haired
fun are used , such as seal , Persian lamb ,
etc. , -trimming for these , and ermine la
carefully cschowt'd , Not a velvet gown , or
moro truthfully ono can say ( scarcely a cloth
or silk oult , Is made mow without one large
rover turning bick over the bust , cither to
right or left. A gay contrasting color In
variably facew this rover , and then , as often
s not , over < ho blue , red or yellow silk
that cover * It , row after row of flno white
Mtln ribbon , gathered to rf emble Illllputlau
rufllM , it laid on. This produces an admir
ably decorative eff ct.
A VELVHT GOWN.
In the Instance of the velvet woJdlng rc
ceptloa gown given this week , the wide
raver falling hick over the front of the
blue trivet basque la covered with crocus
yellow lk | , and over that 1s laid heavv
* oru tinted rontlusnco laco. This lace falls
la a until yok About tiio top cf th skirt
I I HI1
also Is affixed a little mmlnUhn miniature.
A touch on a aprlng allows" the miniature to
spring back and disclose a pouch for small
change. Many-of the prettiest bags are of
amateur manufacture , from lilts of gay Roman
striped ribbon , nnd made large enough to
told not only an opera glass , but the owner's
puree , handkerchief and box of confections ,
IJI3MI TOILETS.
It has been at the countless weddings of
a busy month of November that the best
notes could bo taken on the fashions In
dcml tollota , gowns for. house receptions and
and edges the fides of the yellow ; silk panel ,
bridged In three places by bands and heatls
of sable. Yellow silk and sable tails com
poses the collar , ami attontlon should bo
drawn to the novelty cuffs. In hour-glass
shape , of ydllow silk overlaid with laco.
Mcntlcn must bo made of the length of the
rear skirt breadths. Steadily these gowns of
ceremonious occasions have been lengthen
ing their tails until we will bosoon drag
ging noble trains In our rear.
Every trained dress must perforce have
a haircloth extender laid In the region of
the placket hole This docs not , however ,
signify that we are going to wear bustles.
Very elegant evening drcese * ' , especially din
ner gown.i , have all long trains that are In
nine cases out of ten made of velvet that
ccrjtrasts sharply In color with the rest of
the costume. It Is no secret that many
women who cannot afford a grcst variety of
splendid toilets have ono or t\\o pictty
trains of velvet made up , and In event of
a dinner , a muslcalo or evening wedd'ng ' re
ception attach a train to the rear of a t-hort
dancing skirt and go on their way rejolclrg.
EVENING SHIRT WAI3T3.
There Is no decline yet observed In the
popularity of the shirt waist , but rather a
strange Inslstanco on the part of women CD
wearing this favored garment lit some gttlso
on nearly e\cry occasion. A theater shirt
waist is no longer an anomaly , and the pret
tiest are made of white or pale colored em
broidered chllTon or liberty silk. These are
caught down the frc 't by n series of studs ,
topped with pretty Imitation pearl or coral
studs. Over n ribbon belt , both before ami
behind , such a soft waist la made to pouch
very fully , and the neck Is finished by a
high folding collar of ribbon , tying In a
doubly looped bow under thechin. . A waist
of thla nature Is worn with a silk or even , n
tailor-made skirt , and IE regarded as an en
tirely suitiiblo theater costume. Many of
the prettiest are of white crepe do chine
over a colored lining , and the sleeves hive
stiff ribbon cuffs caught by link buttons set
with mock jewels.
A tiny Item of Interest Is the gradual ro-
ndjustmtot the nackbands are undergoing.
For months now every ribbon and crushed
collar lias hooked at the back with full
puttings cr bow ends thrust up behind the
cars. On the very new suits It cannot cs-
capo notice that the rear hews nnd puffs are
diminishing and that the ribbon collar now
hooks under the left car. In fact , not cue
of the latest made'suits shows a collar fist-
enlng behlirl. Sometimes a small buckle
or ft little frill of lace conceals the hooks
at the side , hut tint Is all , while the women
who arc always prompted In a.Icjvtlng the
last novelty have the necks of their dresses
finished only with hlith. stiff plain collar
hands. * Over these they wear as the whim
dl-ects , adjustable stocks of taffeta or muslin
of any tint , .sa laid In plaits , as to > form full
wide Lamia and fastening under the chin
with short , fan-shaped ends and loops.
Besides those things , It' Is also plain to
see that no model is so hopelessly out of
fashion as the mousquetaire aleeve. It lived ,
Indeed , but ono season , and now the long ,
smooth-flttlm ; tight sleeve rules. Invaria
bly , though the cuff Is long over theh'tml ' ,
wrist nifties are not worn , and , to relieve the
severity of the fit from hand to shoulder ,
the dressmakers allow a few circular folds
to fall In the region of the elbow. These
folds arecilod ! bracelets , and servo admir
ably to'temper ' the rigidity of the cloth-cov
ered nrm.
For little girls , happily the fashions rre
moving backward to the simplicity of other
times , for hero we have one of the newest
and prettiest of dancing gowns plcturr-d for
a miss of 8 year ? . Every stitch In the lit
tle costume could easily be laid by her
mother , for the fabric Is pink net , and th
trimming Is all of narrow pink ribbon.
Loops of the ribbon fall out about the shoul
ders to rnike a finishing frill , and the slip
can be worn over a pretty lace-trimmed
white petticoat or an undersllp of crcam-
colcrcd gloria silk. M. DAVIS.
Till ! UUKISX'S SPKCTACI.KS.
VIctorln'N latcmry Tuntcn Ic-itcfll e l
liy I'rnfoBsloiinl UIMUUTH.
Now that the queen of England , like her
grandfather. George III. , suffers from falling
eyesight , two persons In her household have
cnmo to possess moro and moro Importance.
These are the "lectrlces , " or readers , em
ployed by the nation to save what remains
of her majesty's vision.
The late Lord Dearonsfield once humor
ously described the two lectrlces as "tho
quecn'a pair of spectacles. " Kor many years
Fraulelu Hauor ana Mile. Norelo have held
those positions , the queen only needing
their service-3 for German and French , aa
hrr English Is read to her by her ladles In
walling or maids of honor.
Through the courtesy of the queen's pri
vate secretary a drat -was quite recently oh-
tnluo.l with .both theo ladles regarding thu
tasted of their mistress In literature. Mile.
Norcle , a sprightly and charming French
woman , was easily enough induced to speak.
"Hop mjjesty. " she declared , "ieacl. $ very
little of the lighter tilde of our literature ,
unless , Indeed , ono excepts the various peri
odicals which are sent marked for perusal
from the secretary's ofilcc. She la especially
fond of tha older authors' works , Xavler do
Malslro'K , Victor Hugo's ami portions of Bal
zac's , for Instance. I Ihlnk lhat the story
she likes best In all French literature Is
Do Malstro's touching 'Leptcux do la Cite
jl'Aoste. ' I have read It to her times with
out number , the beautiful pathos of the ta'o
appearing to seethe her In a remarkable
manner.
"Of all the moderns , I really believe- that
her majesty holds M. Alphonso Daubot alouo
admirable. She thinks his satire too mordant ,
though ; nnd prefers the delicious 'Letters
from ily Mill In 1'rovenco' and 'Trcnto Ans
do I'arla' to the better known books. You
will bi > , perhaps , astonished to learn that the
queen likes Ucnrl Murger ; and many a t'lme
have wu laughed together over the graceless
ocamps of the 'Vie do Uolicmo. ' Last year wo
read Fenelon'e Telcmaquo' from cover to
cover. Her majesty declared that the work
brought back two of her life's happlctU
periods her own childhood's days In Ken
sington palace , and the days In which she
taught her children their French.
"A very important branch of my work con
sists In reading the many letters received
dolly by the queen from members of her
family and Intimate friends. Nearly all of
these are either In German or French. Many
of the queen's juvenile descendants are ac
customed to Hcnd her long weekly accounts
perfect diaries In fact of their dolnge and
opinions. "
IN GERMAN LITERATURE.
Fraulcln Hauer was less communicative
than hrr colleague. She comrs of a family
which has served the queen's German ances
tors In many capacities for generations back.
'The queen , " she said , "roads considerably
In modern German literature. She Is oven
fond of the humorous journals , and subscribes
to all the principal magazines. Her German
secretary. Herr Maurice Muther , carefully
watches for all newspaper articles which may
Interest her. ami Bends them marked for
roadl-g. I think that Schiller la her majesty's
favorite German poet , but she Is also very
fend of Qoothe. Heine she dislikes Intensely ,
1 have heard her quote the prince coneort to
tha effect that 'Heine's genius had the phos-
phoreseent light of decay.1
"Sho llkea hletorlcal noveU , particularly
Laubo's 'Dor Deutfldi Krleg,1 and Scheffei's
Ekkehard , ' This taste for historical fiction ,
I believe , follows the queen Into other Ion-
guagea. She greatly admires Walter Scott ,
Kellx Dahn and Kroytag are two more fa
vorites ,
her inajvkty's volumlnou * a r-
I I 'IV * Vi\ > * /l\ * / \J
man correspcndenco forum a very large portion
tion of my duty. "
A WIDI3 RANGE OF READING.
Hon. Emily McNeil ! , who. In her capacity
of maid of honor to the queen , han read
extensively to her majojty In IJogllwh , was
kind enough lo add a few worc'a to thojo
of the lectrlces. " '
"The queen's tJStes In
English literature , " she said , 'Mre calhollc.
She reads nlmosl every new book which
Is described to her its irosswwlns leal merit.
For years the queen took Lord Ucacons-
flold'a opinion largely on the subject , but
since the great premier's death her .ad-
vls'srs are many.
"Tho queen Is never tired of rereading
Shakespeare , Scott and Dickens. Recently
she luo shown a sympathetic feeling for
Milton , acd has been perusing the blind
poet's works. Lord Tennyson U. however ,
her favorite. There Is an utterly erroneoun
opinion abroad that situ greatly dislikes Mr
Swinburne. On the contrary , she has a re
markable liking for 'Atalanta In Calytlon , '
and others of Swinburne's pocma. Of vUo
oho hao been reading Mr. KlclVig , and expresses -
presses admiration for Ills vigor nnd keen
Insight Into human nature. She told u
friend that Kipling had shown her empire
to her In the most realistic nipnnor. " .
"With her fondness for historical fiction ,
she evinces much Interest In the new school
of historical fiction. The Celtic Renascence
nk < o attracts her , for she sympathizes with <
the Gael to a remarkable extent , nnd is
prouder , I verily believe , of Iter k'fishlp to
the StuartE lltan of her descent from the
Guclphs.
TlTlJ IIUATIIICK.
II IN tn Hi * tin * 3l < iMt Kit
DIIIKM * of tin * Xtw SuiiNon.
No matter what new amusements arc In
troduced to society , < lanclng alwa > s remains
a favorite and n fashionable pastime. The
young debutante to bo a success mtiat be
familiar with all the new steps of the
season , for unless she knows them she will
sit apilnst the wall and lack partners.
' lu the programs of the coming season the
waltz and two-step will predominate , danced
in n comparatively slow tempo.
The cnly new dances this seascn are those
adopted by the American national society of
masters of dancing. Tl.ls assoc'j ' tlon met in
Now York last June and twentiour new
iMuces were offered to a committee , which
tried them and voted on their adoption
Thrco were chcben , which will be taug'at
this season In all the dancing schools
throughout the country. These are "La
"
Danso"Beatrice , " by Prof. Lawrence E. Dare ;
the "Allcmande , " by Prof. Theodore Lytlo
of New York und the "Schenley , " by Prof.
H. L. Braun of Plttsburg. "La Danse
Beatrice" is a very graceful and pretty
tlanco In Echottischo time. Its airy light
ness and dignity remind ono of the famous
gavotte , which made Its appearance at the
court of Louis XIV.
The "Allcmande" takes its name from
the 'French ' pun-so a la main ( with the
hsnd ) , for the chief characteristic of Ihls
lance is the linking of the dancers' arms
and hands as they promenade around each
other , or take a few pretty steps as they
move about the room. Throughout this
dance the two-step is used.
The "Schenley" Is named after an emi
nent woman In Plttsburg , and It Is a com
bination of the- Berlin polka and the waltz.
Thus , In the three naw dances of the
season , the old favorites , schottlsche , gavctto ,
two-step , polka and waltz return. ( Among
the square datives the original lancers have
been adopted , and will bo taught In the
dancing school. They are to be simply and
quietly danced In a very conservative man
lier , without any additions or embellish
ments.
'
AS IT IS IX ( HIKKC13.
of I.uviIJiiUiunvn mill Old
Mulilx WlKliI ) ' Scliri-c.
In Greece it is considered an everlasting
disgrace to remain an old maid. Girls are
betrothed very often when still tiny babies.
Marriages of love are absolutely unknown
oven more so than In France. And the father
Is most particular that the intended husband
must have an ample provision to support n
wlfo and family. For the girl a dowry Is not
so Important as In Franco , but a certain
amount of linen and household furniture la
required. The whole training and education
of n Greek girl Is simply a preparation to I
render her brilliant Inthe society of the great
world. Her toilet Is a subject of constant
anxiety.
Although most Greek girls are , naturally
very pretty , thpy begin to paint and powder
from a very early ago cheeks bright red ,
eyebrows and lashes deepest black and veins
delicately blue , The result Isthat she Is a
withered old woman at 40 and nowhere are
uglier women to be found than beneath the
blue skies of lovely Greece.
Next In Importance to beauty comes lan
guages. Every Greek family who can afford
It keeps a French nurse or maid and French
Is universally typkcn In society. Painting
and music are qulto unnecessary , but girls
are carefully trained In dancing and drilled
to enter a room and sit down with elegance.
Lastly , household duties are taught how to
inako rose Jam , Turkish coffee and various
delicate sweetmeats.
ni.vi.vn HOUMS.
I.lffht , Vfiitlliidon , Wall Cov-
< < rliiKSliuilrn , Tulilt * ami Cluilm.
Almost everywhere In Kurope the dining
room Is ono of the largest and moat Im
posing apartments In the house , dnd often
the handsomest.
The walls are usually -wainscoted with
finely-carved oak or other dark wood , In
It hang the family portrait * ( unices , of
course , the house boas In of a picture gal
lery ) and the trophies of the chase. The
furnlturo Is of the most massive kind , with
great'towering sideboards , broad tables and
hlgh-backcd chain.
Most of these things have hern banded
down from generation to generation , come
of them , probably , are ei old as the family
tree , and they end their usefulness , not
through old age , ibut as the result of some
accident , Such magnificently made furol-
turu U rarely to ho found In America , with
NEW HAIR ARRANGEMENTS.
Ilia exceptions of some dearly prized relics
of colonial dajs.
In sharp contrast to the eort of room
Just described Is the badly-lighted , badly-
ventilated , subterranean apartment of the
average ' -ItlRh stoop" city house , known no
the basement dining room. How people In
their effort to have an Imposing "parlor
lloor" can oadtire the penalty thus Imposed
Is past comprehension. One Is a'.wajs
stumbling down those dark stairs , and trip
ping over the bicycles kept In the * lower hall ;
and how pletsnnt It Is on awarm day , when
the windows are half open , to have your
mall Hung In through the Iron grating or
llstm to the gentle volco of the Ice man
demanding to know If you "want any more
Ice today. "
It Is Impossible- give a dinner decently
In such a box. It were far belter to let
the rather diminutive front parlor do double
v °
%
HO
} SECOND"
1" POSIT
IOH
THE MOST FASHIONAB LE DANCE OF THE SEASON.
duty as a reception loom --ncl drawing room ,
reserving the rear parlor ( usually the largest
room in the house ) for the dining room , than
to consign one's guests or one'o family to
those dreadful lower regions.
To make the illn'ng room an attractive
place rather than a mere feeding box , it
should bo as large aa possible as large , if
you are building a house , as you can afford
to make It. It should be cheerful and airy ,
with a high celling.
For its decoration a dark red Indian red
as the predominant tene will be found as
rich and pleasing as any color. The depth
of the- shade should , of course , Sie governed
by the amount of light In the apartment.
A Japauese- pressed paper In red and brcnzo
Is probably the richest and moat effective
wall hanging that can bo obtained for a
modest outlay.
The dining table U the central acd most
Impartial article of furniture. The round
table is In every way profercble to the ob
long affair , which Is , somehow , always
reminiscent of boarding house and military
barracko. It is more sociable , and lends
Itself admirably to decoration ; while It may.
If desired , he made long and narrow by the
Interpolation of leaves. A moro artistic way
of Increasing Its circumference la to have a
false top of large dimensions made to lit
securely over It.
Arm chairs for every one at table are now
In vogue. They certainly area great luxtiiy ,
nnd do away with that temptation which so
often comes to cine to rest one's arms upon
the table.
r.OVKH.VOIt M.\IU\HI3T KKI2VI2.
She Killed IiInlio'N HviTiiUvc Clnilr for
Two W * t'l N.
For years past Miss Margaret Hecvo has
held rc&ponslblo positions in various depart
ments of the state government of Idaho. As
a crowning triumph she has just completed
a two weeks' term as chief executive of the
far western state. Miss Reeve Is at present
nrivato secretary to Mr. Lewis , secretary of
Btalo. Recently Governor Steunenberg and
Mr. Lewis wore called from Boise City to the
northern part of the state on business of the
utmost Importance. The governor was at a
loss who to leave in charge of affairs , hut
finally , at the suggestion of Mr. Lewis , decided
that Miss Reeve would acceptably "run the
machine" until 'his ' return. Acocrdlngly the
vounc woman wa's left at thu state liouso
clothed with full gubernatorial authority ,
which she exercised In a manner that not
only gave satisfaction to the governor , but
has won for hcr'srcat distinction ,
Miss Rcovo muy not have fully compre
hended the responsibilities thrust upon her
before the departure of the governor , but she
took hold of olllclal business like an old hand.
Before the Kovernor und party had been ab
sent twonty-fouh'hours matters of great Im
portance were brought to Miss Reeve's atten
tion , The goveriWr and secretary of st-Jto Lad
loft a number of Important blanks to which
they had attached their signatures , and It
was left to Miss Reeve's discretion to issue
them or not , on requisitions , applications for
extraditions front1 uovornora of other states
and many otber''lihltters ' , Sbo sought legal
advice , but the attorney Informed her she
must depend upon herself , as bo did not "care
to be mixed urv In tbo acts o any female
governor. " When the governor" returned ho
was astonished at the amount of executive
business his fair substitute had turned out
and frankly admitted the cxecellcnce of her
judgment , although In ono Instance tbo case
of an application for extradition he said ho
would not have issued It until he had given
the proteetants a hearing. He has announced
his determination to defend with vigor every
act of "Governor Reeve , " including the
quoted.
A KOOII KXI'KHT.
How Minn Siirii I''riiu < M * Hull Cliunccil
lu Stmlr < ) " * J- v > i of IlMfleue.
A few years ago members of a prominent
New York family fell Into ill-health , and
though doctors and drugs were freely em
ployed to Improve this deplorable condition
of affairs , the family continued ailing Just
the same. About this time Mies Sara Frances
IU11 , herself one of the household , decided
i that the root of all these digestive troubles
| v/as due to the use of Improper foods , and
theri and there she rcr-olved If possible to
enlighten her own Ipr " -iifo.
The more she thout. . nf It the more she
determined to do something nbout It at
least In her own family. So she started out
to make n cnrrftil study of food from the
chemical and physiological aspect , and had
the honor of being the first feminine ap
plicant to ask for Instruction In that dlrec-
tloa So unusual was her demand that she
was unable to find the Instruction that rho
wanted lu New York , nnd was recommended
to try Philadelphia.
There she met with success and began work
under the charge of Mrs. S. T. 'Rorer ' , the
scientific demonstrator of hygienic cookery.
She also attended the lectures of Dr , Selt/er ,
the well known authority -dietetics , and of
Dr. Hpn.ry Leffman. the stale chomlit of
Pennsylvania. An Important part of her
course was to experiment in the laboratory
of the Womnn'o merllcil college , wheie she
Itemed to practically apply her knowledge ,
gleaned from her books and her teachers.
When 'Miss .Hall had pursued a thorough
course of study she returned home and fccsan
to practice what had been , preached to her.
She made nut her bill of fare for each djy ,
ordering only such dishes as she had fotird
were recognized cs healthful , and combining
at every meal such articles of diet as contain - !
tain the thirteen different properties necessary - i
sary to strengthen and nourish man and |
womankind , tint their nerves , brain , muscles ,
bones , blood and other compositions which
go to make up the human frame may be fed
and developed equally.
It was not long before Miss Hall discov
ered the great benefit of hr food system ,
and todiy the members of her household
aie In better health than ever before.
Her fonio scon spread abroad , and she Is
now appealed to as an expert on her spe
cialty. She has been interviewed , and
lias been asked to lecture before the students
at hospitals and training schools. She is
much averse to publicity , but Is always glad
to Influence other women to try the efilcacy
of scientific-lily wholesome eating. '
Miss Hall Is also a zealous phllanthroyls ;
and is active In working among the poor
to Introduce the laws of sanitation. She
reaches the desired end as regards food by
showine ; the women howi they can live on
half the money It they live hyglenically.
She is a strong advocate of temperance ,
being an enthusiastic member of I the Loyal
Loglon Temperance society , and believes that
the greatest cause of Intemperance among
the poorer classes Is the lack of nourishing
food. Thess people live more on tea and
bread than anything else , and consequently
never feel satisfied. This craving for some
thing generally ends In a drink of liquor
and the mischief Is done.
She cannot be too emphatic in urging a
better knowledge of this branch of domestic
affairs , and considers the effect on life In
general arising from the , use of proper food
j really remarkable. She advocates simple ,
i natural methods hi 'both health and sickness
j I and believes under ordinary circumstances
In letting the system right itself. The great
trouble with most articles' when taken Into
the stomach , whether OB solids or liquids. Is
that they are artificial , and not as mother
nature originally Intended them.
She en,8 that the Americans are behind
all other nations In scientific cooklnt ; , nnd
I I
I
j
MISS SARA FRANCES HALL. .
that dense Ignorance of food values Is dally
displayed on the tables of rich and poor
alike.
t'Vlllltllllf * PlINlllOllH.
The latest ( French skirt models grow nar
rower and closer on the front and sides.
Pcttlcoita of silk mcrccn with latfcta silk
rullles are recommended for wearing quail-
tics , which the all-taffeta skirt docs not
possess. The material comes In a variety of
pretty colors.
Another fanny which seems to have taken
possession of the women rather curly in the | I
sotson Is the largqmuff of ch-inchllla , sable j
and seal or velvet , flowers and lace , whlcft '
she carries without any reference to the tem
perature.
The cuirass bodice of shimmering jet
spangles and line beads , embroidered In a
spreading design or sewn in close banls on
net and chiffon , was a very conspicuous
feature of the variety In dress at the iiorte-
show.
What a pity l.t Is that Just as soon as any
particularly stylish , novel and attractive
article of wear comes into fashion there is
nothing to hinder that garment from being
copied In Inferior fabrics nil libitum until
ono is weary at the very sight of the hand
some original ! The Russian blouse , for ex
ample. In fur , velvet , or fur-bordered cloth ,
handsomely braided , has exceeded any
garment seen In many seasons by Its chic ,
youthful , nntty and charming look To see
thrso rwlly clr-gant wnlsts lrvcsti U
sorry tttcitt
pplcrlncs of fur are < ho stylish thlnj ? < o
nwrvlih the- tailor gown. Thp long to | < s
ends nro trimmed with mmimrrflhlp toll * nd
the effect Li chnrmliiK. Hews of black or
colored tntln ribbon decorate fotnc of tde
now ftir boas , set In at Intervals the entire
length.
The ornnmrnt.il panto buckle , glittering
with nil the brillnncy cC a genuine * gout , la
very much In evidence In mlllnery and ele-
gnnt dresa toilets , and apptttra to be n
greatly admired ndjunn of gowning for the
coming winter. Made In various s'mpps U U
just as variously tiled.
Among thecoimtlrgj fancies In neckwear
nro the HCmpIn * tics of llnifsrls net In
cream or white , with tucks nnd a l ce edged
plaiting across the ends. They fold twice
mound the neck and tie In n soft bow or
four-ln-hand knot. Shorter ties of this sort ,
folding in co around the neck , are worn with
linen collars and silk shin waists , and nro
vastly mote becoming than the plain little
bands of silk or satin.
fho tendency -amcng some of the domln.tt-
IIIR ateliers Is towards moro subdued colors
In splto of the rage for gorgeous effects , ami
where hits of vivid velvet are used ns nc-
ce&sorlcs , they are partly concealed nnd tone.il
by appliques of heavy guipure Ince , Jet or
an embroidery of silk and holds.
Hlack moire trimmed very elaborately on
the bodice with Jet-spjttglcd silk musllu
forms n very elegant nnd very popular gown
for receptions , dinner ! ) and afternoon tens.
Mnny womcit who have tired of blnck satin
have taken ngaln to sklrt of plain or
( lowered blnck moire , wearing the bodices
decorated as just mentioned , or with the
popular fnncy bodices of every description.
Bonnet strings tied In a smart little H > ow
under the chin appear upon almost nil thn
new models for winter , nnd black velvet Is
the favored ribbon. On account , however ,
of Its o quickly soiling the necklaces nnd
of leaving upon the throat n plain that can
hardly bo removed , oven 'by heroic processes ,
very many women prefer satin ribbon of the
"fast-dye" brand to velvet , either wideor
narrow ,
I
KinilnIn < * I'rrMuii-.iN ,
Adellna PatII has a superb collection of
Ji.vels. her diamonds nlono being valued at
$37a,000. She has sung before most of the
royalties , most all of whom have made her
iir seiil of jewelry.
Miss Ray has given $10.0.00 toward starting
a negro colony in Alabama. It Is located
'iwr Demur mid a provisional Rovemrncnt
has been established over It. Her Idea Is to
test the ability of thu negro for local sclf-
znvoriuncnt.
Mrs. Booker T. Washington , wlfo of the
negro educator , recently addressed the young
people of her race in Milwaukee and warned
them not to shirk ordinary maini.il labor lit
order to become teachers , as there arc too
many teachers now.
Mine. Jnscfa Ilumpal Zeman of Chicago Is
the only Bohemian nensritpcr woman In this
country and she was recently honored by the
.male members of the Nitlotnl S'avic Press
association by being clcel ? ! > * < * -iitiry of that
organization.
Mrs. Julia Ward Howe will pass the winter
with her daughter , Maud Howe Elliott. In
Rome. Her lameness Is not as severe as it
was a few weeks ago. but ht-r physician
thought that she would better Eucml the cold
months in Italy than In the changeable
climate of Boston.
Miss Marlon Hunter , niece of Sir William
Hunter , has been appointed the female mem
ber of the British medical corps sent out to
combat the plague In India. She Is. or was
until lately , the only phjeiclan of her sex who
holds the Cambridge diploma of public health.
The duties of the medical corps are expected
in consume six incntlis.
Miss Com Dow of Cincinnati Is a very
successful woman druggist. She Is the pro
prietor of a chain of as perfectly equipped
and charmingly appointed pharmacies us one
can find 'twixt sea and sea. A very refined
and captivating woman , In the thirties , of
uulet , tactful presence , brilliant business
-Mllties and of far-seeing , widely successful
commercial spirit , she ban followed thu busl-
ness for the east ten years and is the owner
of four well-paying drug stores , with every
thing modern and new.
A Kansas woman has discovered a new use
to which to put the eminently utilitarian
Indian corn. At the recent corn festival In
Atrhlwm Mrs. II. J. Cus.tck won for herself
! oal fame by the exhlhitlcn of entire cos
tumes made of the product of the corn-
Rtalk. Determined that her fame should not
is merely local. Mrs. Cusack made a really
beautiful hat of corn and sent It to Mrs.
MrKlnlov. This Is gerhapa ono of the most
unique gifts that the president's wife has
vet received. The polished kernels formlns
-to crown of thfi hat have the earns effect
that do the beaded crowns now so much in
vogue. It would take n close and clever
observer to detect any resemblance to ordi
nary Held corn in this very odd yet dainty
headgear.
A VELVET GOWN.
j
