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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 31, 1897)
10 THE OMAHA DAILY K13E : SFNDAY , OCTOHT3I. 31 , 1807. i * IMlOOIt , TOII.I-T3. HlinplU'lty Cnnlm < . "Ill * ( InI'VI volition of Ilri-xH. NBW YORK , Oct. 28. There are very many handsome blouses , plastrons , corselets and boleros worn. Theme arc braided In gui pure , with embroidery and black Irish point over color. The braided blouse admits of several effects and worn with separate un- derboillcs of colored silk Is a very useful addition to one's wardrobe. These blouses arc found In all sorts of combinations. In lace and velvet , guipure and rest Jetted , spoHgled and embroidered with steel. In short , anything and everything , more or less transparent , that will show a. pretty lining. Hero nro sonic very pretty house gowns , suitable ) for oilier times and other occasion * than those mentioned In a previous letter. Tlicsu mjy bo worn when a negligee Is per missible and an afternoon siesta desirable. A very elegant one Is made of violet satin. The whole length , from neck to bottom of skirt , sun plaited. Each and every one of these plaits Is finished with a tiny edge of guipure. T.IU large sailor collar Is also of guipure. The waist line Is clearly defined and trimly held In by violet citln ribbon , tied with a large bow and long ends hanging In front. This l all very line , of course , anl In consequence quence very expensive. Kquolly pretty and much moro practical Is the same model In cashmere. One of the new shades , peau do K.izellc , for Instance. Though to our mind that Is a trlflo Indefinite ; and pink , blue , whlto or lavender , ami their various shades , li much moro satisfactory. Any ono of these , " with narrow butter" lace , trlmmli > g all the BUII plalLs and a large collar of the same , with satin belt , ribbon to match , Is very dainty. A collar and cuffs of embroidered batlsto , and a largo naval bow and ends of lawn , has a certain air of elegant simplicity , which cheap Inoe nomet'Iniw lacks. The gulpuro cdgo Is all rig't with this , or a nar row satin ribbon binding. BECOMING NEGLIGEE. A very elegant material Is of pink glace tnffotas. It Is about four yards wide , and' ' Is COMBING JACKET AND SILK PETTICOAT. trimmed with four deep nifties of black chan- tllly lace , edged with a narrow oi'o at Uie "top. " Two rows of pencil velvet , finished with Inrge bow en the left Hde , with xoveral loops and ends , and a smaller one on the right , Is a pretty finish. The dainty sack is of pink polka dot taffeta , a very Prenchy af fair , with no such things as 'buttons ' or hooks anywhere , except , perhaps , the tiniest little book and loop at the throat. It stops short fit Mho waist , back and -Idea , with ends loosely tied and hanging In front. The sides ore bias , and fit Into the figure as well as the regular bodice , which Is carefully boned. It is trimmed nil around with black chau- tllly lace , three or four Inches deep. A largo sailor collar , trimmed with the same lace Bind Insertion , completes the toilet. Tills Mine model Is equally satisfactory in fine Krench pin dot flannels , In blue or pink , and even flannelette Is not to bo despised. The effect Is Just the same , and the French iriodcl cnn bo reproduced at a trlHltM * cost. For a tall , slight figure a pretty house gown Is of whlto delaine , made with a round ibody and shirred several Inches below the waist. For Ihe collar any sleeves and heavy crosm-wlilte lace In a decided pattern la 'bolter ' than the Valenciennes. A wide whlto s.itln ribbon IB worn around the waist and tied with a bow and er-ls In front. La Juno solole. or gnu-plaited skirt made of cashmere , makes a very graceful matinee skirt , and In white Is especially adapted for a variety of pretty sacks , more or lesa elab orate and negligee. Taffeta skirts In plain colors or black are most serviceable , made with accordion p'Altcd or gathered rullles , with a corded cdgo ; as tlio lacu. whllo very dainty. Is , of course , very perishable , and for much wear it not practical , as It requires constant mend ing and renewing. A very substantial skirt Is of olive green taffeta , trimmed with nc- ' M-jinn pl jithig In points. A Hflnsrble as wall mTcomtorwu.Sv > tt- wear , with this is trench flannel , red , with a pin dot , Tr.ls In made with three ! plnltu back and front , ' hanging loose from the yoke. For a bath robe , or something to take the place of the heavy blankets they roll ouo up In after a Turkish 'bath ' , there In nothing bolter than older down flannel. A very pretty one la baby blue , with the collar , sleeves and front bound with blue aatln rib bon. The long cord and tassel Is always an effective finish. In eplte of the fact that they are rather clumsy owing to the thickness of thu material , but atrango to < ? iy , nearly al ways becoming. DETAILS OF FASHION. The very high flaring fad collar on coats and capes , whllo a necessary precaution to keep out the cold , is not always becoming. This Is particularly the case with Persian lamb when the complexion IK not up to the Umlard. Little chirrings of w.'ilte or colored chiffon , 'Insldo the points and ua far as the turnover shows , will tioftcri up things tro- inendously , and simply can't help being be coming , These little turnovers of ccrlsu chiffon or chinchilla and white or Persian lav.ib look particularly well , in browns , gocia : : and black they will , of course , do longer service. Now four-ln-hand ties are of two < lnch double-faced sitln rlbbrri made , tied and fBf'tonvd In Um buolc with hooks. The ends are usually cut bias and edged with quite a deep plaiting of chiffon , lu white , black and colors and tartan plaids they offer an many varieties at ) the masculine four-ln- hand , and make a good chaugo off with the laws and muslin and liberty silk tics. It generally takes about two seasons to bring -a popular fashion up to Its limit of favor , and uisbcs may bo said to have taken a fair start this summer. There Is no ec/1 to Iho styles , and no limit In elegance or prices. The old romau sash , with fringed ends. Is with us again , and nearly everybody lias an old one fomewhoro that was much tuusurcd In. early youthful days , Taku It out and have It cleaned , If uecmsary. aiwl wear It with white house gowtis. A rather startling sash Is made of the new velvet and aitln ribbon In thrro shade * of geranium red. It U about five Inches wide , and Is maiie with two loops at the waist , and the bias cuds are edged with very deep blUseu of molistcllne do role to match the ribbon. Another Is of plaid , the royal Stuart pat tern , trlmmrd on the ends with paintings of blank moiisscllne. A royal purple molrc of superb quality , with trimmings of black mousscltnc. has an unmistakable air of ele gance. OLD STYLES REVIVED. The princess gown , with a little train , Is very suitable for receptions or dinner gowr.i. This style seems best adapted for the richest and handsomest material ? , velvets , brocades , satin , etc. The old-time rcdlngotc Is another resurrection. Always a dignified garment. It also looks particularly well In handsome stuffs. The new embroidered velvets and steel and Jet will doubtless play a part In their construction. In black It Is always eminently suited to the dowager. There Is something Irritating about there hats turned straight up In front and standing mountain high , far back over the head. The brim Is a sort of fence , nnd five , six or seven feathers , as the case may be , all In a row and stiff as n poker , peering over It. It will take some tlmo to get used to this particular shape , and womcci who mean to wear It should have an eye to the lines of the face and bo duly mindful of their shortcomings In other directions. The safest all-round hat Is the English walking hat , and It Is always In good form SMAItT SUOtiS. Slylrt KiiMlilnitiilili * ColibliTM Arc In- IroiliiHuu ; Tills SI-IINOII. If It IB a question of shoes any woman has It on her conscience to bend all her energies upon solving , she sould , for her own Rake , bear In mind that for street wear no Ulmsy thing can appeal to the critical eye. Rounder , wider toes , lower and broader heels than over before seen arc at present masters of the situation. Thick extension soles , "cricket- era1 soles" they are called , are by the moat dainty-footed women looked upon ns the acme of fashion , but , for the reason that It heats and strains tender flesh and mueclr-s and 'a difficult to keep highly polished , calf skin U not worn ns enthusiastically as formerly. Kangaroo hide , bright dongola stout Amer ican kid nnd what Is dignified by the title Ilussla leather and sealskin , are nil consid ered moro desirable materials. Ilathcr on n venture , the bootmakers , at the beginning of the autumn , brought out laced street shoes of what they described as rough sur faced Russian goat ekln , dyed a very rich mahogany red. Over the toes , Insteps and up the fronts they laid trimmings of dull black dongola and so soon did thrse find pur chasers that they have followed their first Inspiration by very dark brown shoes , sim ilarly trimmed , and by decorating severely plain black shoes with heavy stitching In twine brown threads. Their worthy excuse for doing all this Is that by placing stltchlngs nnd leather appli cations with cautious taste a thick ankle can bo helped to slcnderncss of appearance , a low Instep nrched , or width over the ball robbed of half Its ugly extent. To such ar guments no woman Is Impervious Just as they are turning over with a curiosity , not unmixed with Interest , the high-laced , cor rugated-soled , very dark brown pigskin shoes for wear when the streets are well coated with snow and Ice. INDOOR SHOES. Perhaps not so long as there are pretty clothes to wear and smart occasions on which to don them- will women resign their high heels. Nearly all dress shoes show them now , true French heels at that. Undoubtedly the greatest novelty of this sort to be cen Is the calling shoo all of black satin , or with a vamp of patent leather and an upper of black satin. To be explicit , these new arriv als hi the show of foot wear , are cut on the pattern of any pretty high buttoned shoe but only the posessors of model extremities should presume to use them. Then only can they be tastefully worn In a carriage and drawing-room. Far more cirnctlcal and Just as pretty are kid high heeled calling shoes , trimmed on toe and heel and button flap with patent leather. Sometimes the leather is applied In three narrow stripes across the too , the whole of the button flap Is made of It and the heel Is covered with patent leather ; as a rule good taste prevails anil the slmplo decorations are In greatest vogue. "Never out a badly shaped foot Into a slipper for the evening , cling to the Oxford tie- Is the advice of an elderly and exper ienced boot-maker who also rejoices In great fame earned by his wares and shown the last fashionable decision In evening shoes. It is flu Oxford tie of any heel or too preferred ind of any color of satin wished. Hoth on top anil toe It is embroidered and beaded and laced with silk ribbons to match the satin. Now and then , by special order , he makes lies of very pale tinted satin and sends them to a water color artist to decorate with wat- teau designs over the toes , while up the front two rows of painted por.elaln buttons are 'listened nnd over them narrow ribbons lace acid tie. Store practical and yet exceedingly pretty are the half shoes for dancing with patent leather vamps , tops of black silk or satin and wide scarlet ribbon Uco , tying In big bows over the Instep. Young ladles with stern prejudiced proudly display , as they dance , their half shoes laced with Princeton yellow ribbons or have their Oxford ties undo of Yale blue satin and laced with ribbons bens to match. At a swirl of the petticoats It Is easy to see they are wearing as well Yale blue stockings , while the admirer of Princeton satisfies her feelings In hosiery of bright black and yellow plaid. So studiously neglected are slippers this autumn that the shoemakers have decided to let well enough alone and offer only the conventional French heel and pointed toe , chiefly hi bron/.o kid to these who cling to this typo of evening shoe. A eaHn bow with three wings or loops curving rather high onto the foot , glvo this slipper the title "Princess of Wales" and Is earr.lng for It considerable popularity. All the black satin slippers jro profusely decorated with jet beads and In place of whlto or colored satin sllnpow whlto cream nnd tinted suede seem to bo the material siinst.ugcd with delicate ovcnlnii dresses. ' THE ORNAMENTED PETTICOAT. Above the feet of the well shod women rustle mites and lloundngs of silken petti coats , If possible more elaborate than we havu over Been before. It seems almost criminal extravagance and selfishness for women td hide such glories of silk and lace and lovely design In decoration under sober cloth , or the vury much plainer silk and eatin top skirts. Yet after all the owners of these adorable under draperies are not all qulto such hopeless spendthrifts. Ono remarkable pretty skirt , and most luxurious In appearance , a sketch of which Is given , was all made , oven to the last ] stitch , by thf fair Imnds of the wearer. Over In green silk skirt , pMIn and rather scant , that had served ono entire season as a drees I lining she put together nnd let fall a second | and fuller drapery nude all of lengths of thrco nnd one-half Inch wldo taffeta ribbon In bright green and yellow ' plaid , Inter.- sporaed with banils of rather cease : deep yellow lore net. At the region of the knees clusters of closely pleated lace were set be tween the ribbon bands and falling out gave nil the effect of a full rulTle. Any woman might , for the sake of a llttlo time and taste , go nnd do llkcwlac , suffering no great dlmlnlshmcnl o' her Income at the slmc time This arrangement of lace and ribbon Is , by the way , one of the very newest capsrs In pettiest making. Really exquisite petti coats to wear with dancing dresses are made of any color of taffeta ribbon with strips of plain , finely tucked , or accordeon pleated whlto muslin set In as the connecting link between every ribbon length. Last yoir the printed taffeta skirts showed all their stripes running lengthwise , but with the revival so lately of the Roman scarfs , sashca. etc. , the stripes Id the under petti coats run every way but up and down. Again wo have got back to pinking the edges of nearly all thes ? petticoat rullles , fulling the flounces by laying them In narrow , close sol upstanding tucks , In place of gathers and setting thorn , nt the waist line , on yokes that are trimmed flat. A model skirt of this most fanciful pattern Is given In the sketch of "a bed room toilet , " to demonstrate the above argument. Here the underdress Is of taffeta , pure white and decorated only with narrow plnkad rufflts. Above It flU a blue satin short skirt , cut In a scries of long leaf paints , all oJgcd with cream lace eighteen Inches deep. A bit of this lace is laid over the yoke nnd with this Is worn a dressing sacque of blue French flannel , It * pointed fulness edged with under rufllcs of blue silk , over which falls whlto lace. The sleeves hang free , but the full tack Is caught and held In by two snshes of allk brought round and knotted In front. THE NEW UMBRELLA. The autumn showers have sent the sum mer sunahados Into packing trunks and It Is good to see the new handsome winter umbrellas unfurling. The smartest novel ties are the handles treated solidly or on natural \\ocd , with dull red Hurmah gold ; the largo round slicks of green and brown bamboo , with covers of silk to match and the umbrellas with purse attachment. The purses are meant to hold cir faro only and can bo detached from the handles , that , with few exceptions , have convenient little chains or lioops so fastened as to permit' of the umbrella being slung on one's arm when rot In use. The hoop takes the pretty form oftencst of n slender gold or silver serpent , passing through eyelets In the handle and knotting his Jewel head round his jewel- tipped tall. Persons who prefer elegant simplicity carry medi'im length black sill : umbrellas that have- stout brown bamboo handles with "smelling boHlo top" heads. These are flat heads : of gold or sliver , prettily decorated with raised flowers In miniature. Tnere has no end been found as far as the making of shell ornaments. The number of combs allowed In one fenrlnln head In creases dally and for evening use all are decorated with brilliants. The palest blonde shell Is regarded as far more modish than the handsomest pieces set from a tortolso back. Blonde shell combs are treated with pearl and turquoise beading and rivals of the still lovely mercury whips are combs topped with outspread bats' wings. liven the little boys. In their corduroy school suits , testify to our love for Russian fashions. They , too , wear the blouse , slightly full trousers and a Russian military service cap , but the eagle on the visor Is an Ameri can bird and with this graceful and com fortable Bull Is worn corduroy luggins of the English hostler shape , that he can take off when Indoors to display his high laced brown .shore nnd rough Scotch stockings. WOMK.V III VK1IS. A Itupldly liK'rfiislimr CliiHN < > T lliislni-M * \V < mi on. A certain little cloth-covered volume , pub lished during the present year , contains a list of names significant In the great retail trade of the country , the names of buyers who select and purchase goods for various firms In all parts of the union. There are over 700 women's names registered In this Jlst , and these able to judge state that there are fully 200 other women buyers whoso names are merely set down as S. Brown or C. Jones , without thn distinguishing prefix of Miss or Mrs. "You can depend upon It that whenever you find a woman occupying the position of buyer It Is because she Is exceptionally quail , fled for it , " said the manager of a big de partment store. "Tho post of buyer Is too responsible , too closely allied with the heart of the business , to be bestowed lightly. " So. with this surety to go by , It ts ! safe to Infer that there are between 800 and 1,000 women in this United States possessed of exceptional business capiclty and putting ttielr talents In that line to every day use , "There are at least 50 per cent moro women buyers In the trade now than there were six years ago , " this authority added. "Tho reason ? Well , because oven conserva tive merchants are beginning to have confi dence In women's judgment , and there Is such ample proof day after day of their ability that only prejudiced men flout at U. Fiom the time that women first entered the stores at all , even as saleswomen , their taste and Intuition for style , their ability to select , was noticed ; the only thing that held them back from the highest positions and tlut holds them back now In some housea was the fear that they could not bo trusted with money , could not be relied on to niako judicious Investments. Many women are Incapable In this respect , but most of these buyers wo are speaking of have keen business sense , are conservative and yet at the same time have enterprise enough to lav In a supply of novelties of oven riskily iilgli-prlceri guuab In orJar tQ keep their departments up to the mark. THB QUESTION OF SALARY. What salary can a wonua make n year ? For an exclusive hou.se , where she handles only n flno line of goods , ho Is paid from $0,000 to $8.000 a year. Such a buyer pur chases the misses' and ladles' stilts direct from the factory where they are made. Fine , well-cut , well-put-up suits , of original de sign. She must not have too many of one elzo or pattern , yet she must have enough. She must know her line of custom from Ate to X , and know exactly how much she can afford to pay apiece for such goods In order to sell them at a reasonable profit. Shu mu > H bo able to judge In a moment , when a newly designed article Is shown her at the factory. whether or net the price asked for It It rea sonable. She must know the wholesale price for the velvet , mlk or satin that trims the garment , also the prlco of the cloth It la made of , tl)0 ) coat of th * nuking , and so on , nnd be able to calculate to n fraction just what profit she ought to allow the manufacturer. To a good buyer the manu facturer HIIOWS his best nnd most unique bargains. If she Is not liberal , wants to Jew him down to too close a margin , or If she does not buy enough to make It worth his whllo to enter to her tnsles , he t-hows her only his * > low , selling goods , nnd keeps the rc t back for mnre enterprising cut'tom. THE 'VOLUME ' OF BUSINESS. "How much money does n woman buyer for such an linrortnnt department use dur Ing the year ? " lie Is asked. "If she Is" n | ; oed worker she turns her stork money . "over two or three times. Cer tainly she buys during the year from $300UOO to $500.000 worth of goods. Snli n buyer will have been In the business certainly ten years or more , and IiaVc familiarized her self with every detail. Occasionally i bright , keen-wilted woman , with a tnlent for comparing vahics , will Ira'n the market ami Its possibilities and limitations In less than three years' time. "Up to a 'tow seasons ago women buycr.i wcro employed principally In the women's underwear and Irifnnts' goods departments , or In the buying of corsets and such articles exclusively feminine , Now women are buy ing shoes , umbrellas , Jewelry , notions , leather goods and stallone'y , and n few. those of very excellent Judgment , are Intrusted with the buying of laces and furs. The fur department In one of the largest houses In a northwestern city Is entirely controlled by a woman. "Do you like to buy ? " this young woman was asked , not long ogo. "I love It , " she answered. "I buy direct from the factories , and the men sav themselves that thev can't fool me on a garment. They have tried to puzzle me. sometimes by laying out a let of Hklns , all of ono sort , and Insisting that one wan better than the skin 1 preferred , but I have certain rules to go by , and 1 tan tell the feel of a fur , seldom making a mis take. Out of a number of seal skins , with no mark to Identify them , I can tell the exact kind of seal that each skin came from. When I took the pultlon of saleswoman In ( ho fur department 1 rcado up .my mind that I wo'lhi learn nil ( hero.was to Know > OUT Hie trade , aUliough , of course , I could have sold stock without that knowledge. " This able buyo- purchases evening wraps and fur garments worth $800 nnd $900apiece. . She Is responsible for $ ' . ' 30.000 worth of goods during a season. In glancing over the classified list of buyen' , It Is noticeable that the orallx Miss Is as 10 to 1 complied with Mrs. Far some reason women buyers are not often mar ; led women ; perhaps because they are too much engrossed In the wcrk , or because It is work that will not stand any rival Interest. Be that as It may , woman's growing commercial CORDUROY SUIT FOR BOY OF EIGHT. efficiency is plainly evidenced by the testi mony of flgurca. facts and her own expressed preference for business life. Feminine % lltlM. The beautiful Mrs. William Leo of Bos ton is a candidate for the position of pre siding officer of the Daughters of the Revo lution. Senorlta Jaguarlna Is the name of a Mexi can woman whose achievements with the bntidsword have won her world-wide celebrity. Miss Fisher of Boston was recently chosen as an expert in settling differences between the Spauldlng Show Goods company and Its employes , A woman steamboat certain Is Mrs. Ida Lachemund. In this new Hue of work she has proved a success and has made not a little money. Mrs. Maude Howe Elliot , the beautiful daughter of Mra. Julia Ward Howe , is much In demand -for - parlor lectures. She Is bril liant and cntcrta.kilng. Mrs. M. E. W. Sherwood's picture Is placarded all over Now York. She is engaged to wrlto a series of articles on "How to Behave" for a dally paper. Miss Eleanor Wheatly of .Memphis recently presented to the Grand Army of the Republic at the Tennessee Centennial a llfe-aized medallion bust of Andrew Jackson. MM. Charles Tyson Yerkes , the wife of the multi-millionaire , dresses In a fzshlon of her own ; she avoids thp conventional , and has her gowns specially designed to suit her style. Mile. Chamlnado , the foremost woman composer of the world , Intuids coming to New York , where she will Interpret her own musical compositions in parlor concerts nt private houses. Mlsa Glaibjt.orujj , who is nljapsf continuously wTn" { Hit ) vxj-rjrej lv'r au'4 JJPIiiMjiiivr , Ta aa enthusiastic cyclist , and during her parents' stay in Perthshire made mauy long journeys of exploration. The state of Lady Henry Somerset's health continues to cause firrat anxiety to her friends. Sim U residing at Kastnor castle , her superb .place near .Malvurn , and fe-jln Intensely her enforced abstinence from active work. A 73-year-old Tyrolean woman the other day caught a largo chamois. It had been driven by a dog Into a. corner , where tno woman caught it , and , after tying Its ' 'eot , delivered It to the forester , whu gave her a reward. Mrs. M'JH'.re of Meridian , Mlfcs. , vice presi dent of the United D.iughtrrH of the Cou- NEW SHOES AND SKIRTS. fcilorflcy of th.it elnto , l * r-king the ns.ilst- anro of the Missouri D.iiiRhtcr cf the Con federacy In the project to purchase the oil homo of Jefferson Davis < U Hcauvolr Mijor llello Iteynolils.vlu > was elected president of the recent wonnrTs ; nriinen ; ; nt Lost AiiRoles. Cal. , went through the civil war with her husband nncl by her btrtvery and devotion to the wounded soldiers gnincil famn and the rank of major , confe.-ted tin her by Governor Yates of Illinois. Miss Ilraddon la known ns ft ruroloss dresser. She Barbs herself ns lie wishes , without considering publlo opinion. Her KOwna are therefore often old-fashioned in style , and leave much tt > be desired In beauty and color. Miss nracltlon etlll wears the long drop earrings In vogito twcnty-flvo years n o. o.Mrs. Mrs. 'Caroline Morse runs the etistom hoimr elevator In San FVvmclsco. She Is the widow of a sailor and shu c.ues for and educntes her family by means of her work. She was appointed tinder ex-President Harrison's ad ministration and was deposed during Cleve land's second term , but San Francisco do- iiiiimled her reinstatement nt once. 1'V III IIII IK' KlIMlll'IIIX , Ox-blood Russia calf oxfords are boh : stylish and useful , ns arc the dark , rich rus set tones In leather. Evening skirts , with the majestic train , have- come back Into fafrhlcei again , but hardly Into full favor yet. DiMutlful drawn-work dollies have In the center a butterfly made with fancy stitches on the drawn linen threads. A charming hat In Iho two prevailing colors of the season Is of brown velvet trimmed with yellow chrysanthemums. lied morocco tics and slippers meet the demand for everything red , and nro worn t match costumes of that popular color. Cretan embroideries areto be the height of fashion. Thcsu embroideries nrc wonder fully Intricate In design , delicate In work manship and vivid In coloring. Pretty little bracelets which conform to the present demand for Kgyptlun and oriental Jewelry are made of slender chains of pild or dull silver , studded with lapis lazuli beads. The nuar-.toed shoe has had 'Its day , and the medium round too has.boon' substitute * ! . Knnmclcd . .leather 'U' far preferable to patent leather , and Is not apt to crack like the latter ; It may be had In all colors. A pretty blouse for theater wear Is made of black accordion-plaited cut don over cerlsr silk and trimmed with Jet brnds and lace- edged frill.- ' . Another bodice , of rose silk , is tucked In groups and strapped with black Bulpuro Insertion. HIack net gowns arc very popular trimmed elaborately with black lace Insertion , and made over black or pearl white silk. If the former , the net should have an Interlining of black chiffon , made loose from the bottom tom like another skirt. Walking hats and sailors In all shades of felt are much In vogue for shopping expe ditions , whllo the black velvet hat in such shapes 33 require the Amazon plumes will do service for calling , carriage wear and afternoon social functions. Tie ! bodice with a blouse front Is quite ns prominent among the evening gowns as It Is among the day gowns. Such bodices are cut low and round or biuart ] > In the neck , whern they are finished \vhh a narrow ruchod heading , or rulllo frills , cf the thin material. A new material Is called "plule de sole" mln of silk. The odd name Is derived from the method of Its niauufuctuio , a plain woolen fabric being woven In ordinary fash- Ian , while a shower cf short ends of stilt is scattered over It. the pieces mingling with tht wool \voavlrg an 1 giving it a silky , glittering surface. Pretty and effective lamp shades tli.it can be readily changed when soiled are made from the little Japanese or Chinese umbrel las. Those can 'be ' bought for a few cents at any of the Japanese stores. A round hole Is cut in the center to fit the globe , mil the whilom umbrella Is tied Into position with a ploce of baby ribbon. Sashes are an important feature of even ing dress , as they are of many house dresses for day wear , and whether they are made of fancy ribbon , chiffon , tulle or net , they are finished with a narrow frill of lace or chJITon. all around the edge or trimmed with rows of Insertion , tucks and frIKs across the ends. Pate blue chiffon makes a very effective gown with a narrow ruc'ilng at the hem , and again half way up the skirt , which la loub'.e. Tlit boJice is trimmed with lines of silver acd gold spangles meeting at the neck to foim a bolero effect. A fold of velvet In a deeper shade finishes the neck , and chiffon and lace make the blouse vest. Lace powdered with spangles trims the chiffon sabh. Narrow rullles of net. edged with satin or velvet ba'by ribbon , trim somd of the simple net gowns , whllo others are elaborately em broidered with silk , toe cord , and spangles. A strong touch of color is a point in tbe new evening gowna which e > ecins to be generally observed , and If the gown Is white or pale In tint the bows arc In decided contrast. Combining three shades of one color In the finish is one of the latest whjms of fashion. A dozen coffee cups of Cci Iport china Is a gift with which even a royal bride would be delimited to begin housekeeping. The egrf. shell flue china Is tinted , deep red , pink , lark blue , pale blue , yellow anJ green , and , ilkt > most Coalport decoration , beautified by rich designs In. gold. A dozen coffee spoons . of gilded silver , with handles Inlaid with enameled mosaic , come with the cups , the mosaic on the hai.dles repeating the colors of the cups. _ Everyone Who Makes Three or Moro Words From the Ll t Below Dots a SPrlzoi 9100.00 for n Complete Correct List , rtontl our Offer Carefully , The following 10 Words onoh hnvn Dnshon where Lotloro should npponr. A Tfio proper letters In these spaces mnko Complete words whloh wo hnvo choaon , ( w answering the description nccompnnylng Each Word. CAN YOU DO IY ? g HERE ARETHE'WORDTlPDLESrCAM'YOU SOLVE THEM ? j 1. A-ER-C-Theltwro0Krlnth8 9. 0-R-mr.tU1 2 , T BA - C - A 10.01 - 3i " OA fsM In Inundrlc. . CA _ TV 8omHhlnimni n dinlrtln ll.jC-L-M US t/1 If om n. ! C _ I 111 * Something FltrMmmnna would 12. NO- VM Uo for money. . In ofiltt . QUEE-VICi * - Thought or hr 13. - OL - AR - WKvT,57 , yof. m n i/i tl n IA mport tnwn on the Itjr than by Amtritan vrorkmnn. I * r. ra U li Atuuiiie UOMI. _ _ _ Afc < uti ! yln lntcr [ 7.0 -rV3 I 5l celebt-Mdl In 15. W-T-H Something nearly orcrr . l O churclin. . one went * lUljed In Toi * < i\ml other ' IQ.C-TT-- Southern States. 16. B-Y-E' ! EXPLANATION ! K rh d h ppc rlncln the pnrll lly uprllrd wnnli Indicate * the ahrcncpnfft ' certain letier mm when thu proiwr letter * ntw ipnlle < l the original word no have .elected tn rorm each I rlildlo will bo fountcomplctr. KXAuri.nt - K - ' 'something ' r , try iroml niin aliotiM hate. " Inthlscftpe W ( the omitted lettcn are I and E ami when properly Inserted iiuvVe Iho wonl U'1KK 0) i i . . . i n. . n ' Pfl CUE ! IT 1(1 MO i Mnko out your list of in words , ns nbovis tislnp llio letters nrpearlnn * J 1 UUIviUll iCil O. In I'ach mirtl nnd substituting for tlio ila hrs the letters you think * should npnnar. > 'o list will bo considered If It has moro than to words. This U n fair olTer to 9 ' pay Sino.iio for brains to earnest workers. In C-TSO then ) Is moro than ono correct list revolved v i nccordlnp to cnnditions nhovo , wu will pay Sicw.oo each to the teu persons sending correct lists g [ that are best nud tioatest In appearance. g Every pomon mallnc II nr morn rornvtpd wird nccnnllnir lo 2 conillllan : ill rccclvnn Imnilnnniumml Knldnntcn. Kvcrv irfon i Ji t-cnillnv 13 nr innro corrected wordsnccortlniK ! i > coiulltlous lll V * Erorronu liiivlint : i or morn cnrrect worrt nccnrdlnjr tn cnndl * I ( Inns nlll rocolvnnband'onto present of our selection of the followIng - ( Ing : An JeJ diamond f cart pin nr Kind , clcirant clustur rlni ; of ruby nr . emerald utmii" . cold plntcd i < : irrlnEs , brooch , stick pin nr vntch ! ctuirin. WnKu.irniitromti fnclliiiittUhliniri'niilK ! | AOKfiid. ' Jlemembor the o presents lira free hut nn lift will Im conntilered ' unle 3 you nro n subscriber to Hoyco'n Monthly.V Iheroforo rciiulro ( joi ! send In your llf tlO Nrt T l r.NJ ) ANSWI'.HH WITHOUT nh < orlii < i tlonu4 FiichniKivcrB " 111 rccelru nn nttcntlon ninl cannot ponsibly , rlnoTeit If \VrnnsllverKpcurelyln paper before cncloMna I It In envnlopn to prevent Ion by mail. . . ; lin \Volmvn underlnken tn hnllli ' UfllRI PA PI VIIC TlliCVolmvn ilUW UMlJ VtJC , UU t Mia tremcndoui circulation In u short I tlmn. Ournlmlitn net n million uclnUPuh.crlborj , nnd otMlpsn nny ( niontlil f publlcntlnli In lh woi Id.Vn witnt to do this in low week * ) j Inttcudof naltln years , nnd to dnllitfl rcnulres luonur nnd lol of , lui tlp. Thn Krnntest dlftlcnlly liiKPltlni ? subscribers la to Kot them starlod. Alter they havn rend Ihn fasclnatlne ( "tortes nnd literary nintlarthatapppiirK In our Illustrated monthly they will not be without ' Knndlt Hnotmnbln toKcttliom In rcnpwihelr uli"c > rlptlon . Wo i know thntordlnary methods will only prodiico ordinary rcsulUandan t onllnary paper , llenco wonmlo estrnonllnnryolTnrn nnd expect to i liavoun extmorulnary sulHcrlpllon list. Wo hnvo < k vl < cd n plan that , rewards brain workers. ThtB is nn lottery nrclianenpchpniPlnitiin In * . Kenlou , falr nnd MinaroolTer that irlvpsnvpryonenprljintliiitnxnrcli.es ullttlBpntlenco , liiMidnnrolIerc.irefnlly. o mean Justw hat vtt say ' DBfiTCnTinM n infant tn iriianl ncalnHtnn nppearancoof < rttU I Cu I IIIlN cnllnslnn nr IrregularityweIKIVII written thn i BOYCE BUILDINO , orlKliml 10word".chosen by m for this contextmid thn P.IIIIO have i 12114 Dearborn c , rhlrnnn ltH' ) " Placed In n pealed enveln'io In llm Chlcaco National ll.lnktohi > , * i " f'Mixyu'Dpcnctionlylnlho ' | ire encnnf Hllne * c , when thn awnrdi are mado. , llomoot Uojce ' 8 Monthly , The publisherof lloycn'njMonthly nNimvim ihnlioycnllnlldlni. , nn llluflriitlon of which appears In this ntrer. Tlni biillilltiu-l' nnnnl ' thn flnc lIn ChleMtra.Vu stute this im'ri-ly U ) nhnw thnt wn uru n resimndhln cnncnrn , backed by capl > I tal and ublo to fulllll our iitfrefinentti. Si > nd In your list and ! . " < centn fnr n year's subscription und ict ( u prlzu. Wrap Hlh ur securely In papur lie [ or o placlm : In uiivelopc , lo uvold Inn * In mail * . " ( BOYCEBLOG.,1 CHICAGO. ' < - Ten yi'nrs nun we nrmmlzcd the HOrsi31IOLD jnt'IlNAI * . We lm\e * . | vnt 'Inn l nvt > r o.NK llt'MHiU THOfSAND DOM.AUS In ndverllflnpr our iii.njazlmnn.l . n. cuiry J.-i'0 , ' ( > win Hi of ndvirllMlriK In every Imie. We ln llew If we can Ini-reai- circulation liy n llln-inl expenditure ot money , wo can prove to the many advcitl- - i Amvilc.i that the llousihold Jouinal Is the best medium < ' \tiint po prnpure iipprnpi. < Ins } 2 < i.ooo the next month In free Klfti to thote who nre willing to upend a few inoiin ' In an Interesting and Instructive contest. IIK.U ) CAHIIIM M.V Oil ! IIllicit A I , OKKP.lt. \ \ Vlve below ten familiar : ul.iK < > s or quotations. In each we have dropped win and replaced dashes. Now , we faithfully and honestly promise to Klvu any person nhi ponds us the correct list , A I'KKSK.VT OF KOIMl HC.NDIUCK DOI.I.A It S. It will take a llttlo time nnd onre to send us the coirect answers , hut the efTn-t will prove InteristliiK1 and Instructive ami may be. tbe means of laylns the rounil.-MI n of a fortune , ns many of our wealthiest men have started with le'H than ? 400.v < | D not expect hut few vnricct llBts , if any , but In case of a lar e number we will illM > l" tne JU > equally between the persons Fending the ten neatest and ncuu-Bt cornel li- ' . tfuarantoclnif at least J40 to each. There will be many hundreds who will be unable tn ncml full lists owliiK to llmlti-.l . cdueatli-n. Inability of access to encyclopaedias , reference books , etc. , so to leave none dlsapp 'luted In iemrlnpr the JWO. we will UIVK TO AX A' IM2KSO.V SI3.\U1\i HUT -I t'.HH IIKCV AXS WI.IIS. n present elected according to nentneas and most number of correct ndagus from Iho following articles : Columbia IMcycle. Slelnwny I'l.ino , Heethoven Parlor Orenn. Solid Gold Wntch. 1 dozen ItoRers' Sliver Fpoons. Diamond I'm , Pair U'ice Curlnlnii or Het of Chambera' Encyclopaedia , and positively Kunrantcc piesent to be worlh fiom } 3 to J1W. DDK LIST OK MISS1XKVOItll UIIOTATIO.NS. J. Ventured tialned. 0. - U'ntera Deep. 2. Necessity Mother Invention. 7. Stitch Time Nine. 3. Feather. ! Hlrds S. ITonesty the 1'olley. 4. Itolllni ; Gathers Moss. 9. Time Tide Man. C. lie Sure Klght , Abend. 10. Many Slip Cup Tfl VnTI 'r > Irl n0' wnnt < to iniiko a. penny on this offer , as we g iu i v/u. art , , ! , , nj wlth futme , , , . , , ,11. , . Ior if W ) , C11M , ) , , , ) . j vertlwia a truthful , bona-njc subscript ! on list of Five Hundred Thousand , we cnn Increase - ! i crease our Income alone Kitty Thousand Dollars a year from advertising. So In sendti Ins : in your list send us but ia cent * for your subscription to our liiteres.tlns magnzlm1 > ji This amount Is credited to you , as we w 111 not recoKiilzc nny list unltvsH amount ls eniO clohcd with letter , for we do not propose to award our KlftH to parties who are not on A our bo-'k.H us paid subscribers. We me not after the small sum (23 ( cent * ) , for that A barely pays the actual cost of postotll oe or express order fee In pending t.'ie cash to i& successful contestants or expense of postage or expreipaue ( as we send same prepaid ) on in * our other Rifts , which every one receives who cannot correctly answer entire list. A v ' OJTAHAMl I7P" . llemember we nre now ten years In existence and have es- i uu/\nrtii t-LtU. - taijnsiied a reputation thntls woitli ft half million of dollar" . > , so we cannot risk any dissatisfaction ; BJ If you Imvo answered the numerous "Puzzle if Contests" which aie lloodlnK tin- country uml have been unfairly treated or unsuccessful A do not hesitate In iccoRiilzniK our offer , for MO POSITIVIUA' at'AUANTUi : to refund any A contestant the subscription fee. 2 > cent i , If not satisfied with our methods. UV ref'-r < v to any bank or mercantile agency of our financial standing nnd honest di-nlhiKH. Dls- jincr of contestant ) * makes no dlflerence , as our committee of nwaidst me ii pnn llilc * buslni-s-s men of Pnlhiilelphla nnd will carefully examine encb Ibit. Write your mime A nnd ndiliePH plainly , and .Iliect I.-tter with subscription entrance fee in silver or 13 in 2-cent stamps to A Household Journal Publishing- . , Philadelphia , Pa , | j , j .jg , STATE LINE , Miss. , May 6th , 1897. My friends arc asking me what in the world Is helping me. I tell them I am taking Wine of Cardui. My only regret is I did not take it four years ago.Vomeii don't appreciate health until they k se It.1 I was greatly afflic ted for a long time. 1 seemed loTiaVC cO ; pl. * cated "female troubles" . About three ye'ars ago I had an attack of nervous prostration , the result of frequent miscarriages. I cannot de scribe my sufferings during these years. I could eat or sleep but little. I grew very thin and life was a great burden to me. The case baffled our local physicians. That was my condition when I commenced your treatment. I hadn't taken Wine of Cardui and Black- Draught a week before I began to improve. And J have kept on gaining. It is wonderful. INEZ GAINES. Women can have good health. There is no neea for them to suffer as they do. Nine-tenths of all their sickness comes from menstrual derangements familiarly known as "female troubles" . This is unpleasant to talk about so treatment is neglected. But Wine of Cardui cures all these troubles at home. Women who take it have good health. Whites and falling of the womb and irregular and painful menstruation don't trouole them. Wine of Cardui is offered all afflicted women. It only costs $ J.OOper bottle at drug stores. mter" v