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10 TITE OMAHA DATLTfr ,111313 ; SITyPAY , 17. 1807.
-i IN THE DOMAIN OF
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WIBW
T
IIOMK TOIIiKTS KOIl XVIVI'Kll.
Sonic riinrtnltiK Inilimr Coxtuinox 1H-
dlKiu-il for I IIP N 'W SI-MMIIII.
NEW YOUIC. Ost. 11. As the G o'clock
'tea ' season onproaches It behooves us to
Blre serious thought to the gowns Intended
tor this Important function. A friendly
chat over the cup that cheers , find the choice
lilt of gossip Homctlmcs served up therewith ,
will do much to soften the heart and btlng
about an exchange of confidences comforting
( o the neil ) .
A very dainty , If perishable , house gown
li made of pllssed Ivory white moUssellno
le jiolo. The full skirt Is divided nt Inter
vals/with long strips of pink moire silk , undet
gauzes edged with narrow ruchlngs of val
Jacc. The jacket Is silk-lined gauze , with
Valenciennes Insertion , and edged with RU- |
Dure. This Is worn over a shirred bcdy cf
tnnussellne. also trimmed with narrow lace ;
and so uro the epaulets , belt and neck ruch-
Ing. The nlcevo 1s all shirred , with a me
dium-sized | iiiff at the top , over which falls
a plaiting of moussellne. A very full nich
ing of the same Is a 'jretty trimming at the
m-rlst.
A stylish house gown of violet cashmere
s made with a sklit Just .four and a hall
yards wide over a separate petticoat of violet
tnttcta. A horizontal band of lace Insertion ,
edged with bMck pencil velvet , trims the
eklrt. This Is crossed at Intervals by per-
iwmllcular bands of Inset tlun all around ,
end a very pretty effect Is thus produced ,
The bodice Is made with a llttlo basque , anil
Is full back ninl front. It has the same
trimming OH the ski t. and the upper part In
front 'Is ' cut out In similar fashion over a
wldo lace collar , which extends over the
"top of the sleeve. The folded bolt Is of white
ellk. The very high collar Is edgid with lace
on the sides. The sleeve is perfectly pluln ,
with a slight fulness at the tcr.i.
A WELL-DEFINED FASHION.
The Russian blouse Is as much In evi
dence for bodices as for outside Jackets , and
H In , of course , particularly becoming to
slight figures , while having unmistakable
merits for more generous proportions , pro
vided , always , there Is sufllelent height to
carry It off. A costume for the house , chiefly
remarkable for elegant simplicity , Is of
Cqrca lightweight cloth. In blue.
The skirt has a tabller front and H made
without a lining. It has no trimming , but
great attention Is paid to the cut and hang ;
it1 ! very little If any more than the usual
width , but appears fuller owing to llounce-
HWy effect. Tlio body Is a Russian blouse
of a particularly pretty design. H has the
usual little basque , and opens at the side ,
turning back with a very laigo rover , which
1s covered with a series nf tiny embroidered
liatlste rnlllo , the last outlining the openlrvt.
Tlio shoulders have narrow , str.ilght epau
lettes. The sleeve Is fairly snug with a
double puff effect at the top and the wrist Is
flnlbbod with a rullle of embroidered batiste.
An enormous bow of moiisseline without
ends Is 'worn ' at the neck. The blouse Is
fastened with self-colotcd buttons.
Many house gowns this season nro made
with n llttlo train which will doubtless be
popular with short women , who inly upon It
MOUSSELINE DK SOIK AND MOIRE SILK.
and their Louis Qulnzo heels to glvo them
the envied dignity of added Inches. The style
of the laVender glace silk gown Is especially
adapted for a train which omphasUes the
graceful outlines.
The gown Is all one scheme In color and
material , except the high , straight collar
, nnd white monnsellno chemisette and rullles
at the wrist The folded belt and sash are
the glace Hlllt , and also the trimming on
bodice , which Is put on In surplice effect ,
and starting at the shoulder with six llttlo
rufllcs , tapering down to three , In a point In
front , and finished with a large bow , The
rulllo on the collar In the b.ick Is also of
the glace silk.
USINO DELAINE AND TAFFKTA.
An Inexpensive frock Is of old-fashioned
I I 'I1 ' ' ' -ij i §
dclalno of pearl gray , with embroidered silk |
dot. The skirt Is made with three deep vandyke -
dyke points In front , over separate petticoat
of pearl Rlace silk. And while the Vandykes
are not particularly new , they are sufllclcntly
becoming to the majority of women to nuke
them popular the coming season. The body
Is full all around , with a basque and folded
belt. It U cut out at fie neck , forming a
yoke effect In the back , the opening continu
ing clown the front to the waist. U Is
trimmed all around with a rullle of the
dotted delaine , and two more llnlshlng the
top of thu sleeve at the shoulder. These
ruHled epau\cttes \ are a. saving grace and
often redeem n perfectly plain sleeve , as In
the present Instance , from positive ugliness.
The yoke rest U of rose-colored moussellne ,
finely plaited with the lace Vandykes across
thu .front.
A prettily figured striped taffeta Is of pink
glace nllk , with a fine , lace-like pattern In
black ; this Is divided with a satin stripe.
T.ho skirt Is four and a quarter jards wide
and h trimmed on the bottom with an accor-
dlon-pIaltc-J rullle edRtd with narrow chantilly -
tilly laco. The body Is a hlongc front of
rose pink taffeta , with a double ruflle of pink
glace silk with pinked edges down the front.
Over tills Is worn a bolero of the figured
silk , with a pllssue nil around. The sleeve
Is tight , Its scant outlines at the shoulder
being concealed by a very full ruflle of the
Hgurod silk , with plain silk and lace trim
mings. Two llttlo ruchlngs of black chan-
tllly lace finish the wrist. There arc- two
I folded bolts , the bottom ono of pink and the
I top of black silln ribbon , made with a stunning -
' ning bow on the left side. The collar Is a
reproduction of the belt. Th'ls gown has a
separate pottlcoat of pink and black shot
taffeta.
A dainty frock for a little girl Is a pink
popllnctto slip , rather on the mother hub-
! bard order. It Is made with a tucked yoke
and a puff Just below. The full skirt Is
trimmed with a. band of insertion , about two
Inches above the hem all around. The
sleeve Is a short , largo puff , over which
there are two scant rufllea of embroidery.
The collar Is high , with a narrow turn-over
embroidered edging.
A SUMMARY OF STYLES.
The latest skirt Is moderately full , lounded
at the bottom , flat In the front and on the
sides , nnd with godets behind only. They
are made with separate pttlcoats. Shot
taffetas are the favorite lining ? , and very
pretty shaded combinations are pink nnd
gray pigeon breast , green and claret uud
violet slnded taffetas. Very heavy mate
rials , such as Harris' tweed or tailors' cloths ,
are niiide without any linings whatever , a
fashion started In the spring In self-detenu1 ,
with heavy brllllantlne , the weight of which
made a lining practically Impossible and un
beatable. With vety wide materials the
skirt Is bell-shaped.
The new Corea cloth Is something similar
to mohair with a wider wale. U has all
tint desirable springiness which characterizes
that material , and hangs well without a
lining.
Women who have a well-stocked wardrobe
of last season's gowns , and felt In duty bound
to get their money's worth of wear , can
easily make them possible this winter. If
the best of their kind and of first-class make ,
then a very little manipulation will sulllce.
mil remcmner , mere inusi DC no prentice
hand , for even these small alterations , gen
eral making over , should be discouraged ,
otherwise a rank failure Is sure to follow.
Two godets taken fiom the back , where
the skirt Is very full , nnd some change in
the fiont seams , but this depends on the
width of the material , are usually all that
are uecessiry. Great care should be taken
In the fit and lines about the hips. For
some mysterious reason , known only to the
dressmaking fraternity , 011 Inch or two ,
sometimes more , is sure to disappear In the
length as'soon as the front seams are tain-
pet ed with , unless In skillful hands. This
will make even u French gown look countri
fied. With the bodice , the- first thing , of
conrre. Is to have the sleeves made smaller ,
and up to date. This Is hllf the battle , and
the rest Is easy enough. Walstcrats are a
good thing to introduce whenever possible.
They are an excuto to wear some of the beau
tiful buttons of gold , silver , or even precious
stones , If one can afford such luxuries.
Some of these walscoats aie very accommo
dating , however , and. provided the coat Is
likewise Inclined , one of the buttons at the
top of waistcoat will liave all the desired
effect.
The bustle Is once more In evidence In the
shops , but It Is really a mistake to buy these
separate and clumsy things. The better way ,
by far. Is to have a very modest affair of
two little puffs of hall-cloth securely fastened
to the waistband on either side of the back.
This sort of bustle Is never .self-evident and
Its presence Is rarely suspected. Very small
crescent-shaped pads of silk to match the
pottlcoat and stuffed with hair are preferred
by some.
The straight front corset continues Its
vogue nnd the only objection to them Is the
extraordinary high prices charged. They
give full scope to the hip and back , while
keeping a tight reign In front , a decided ad
vantage where there Is a decided tendency to
embonpoint. There will bo an epidemic of
suddenly developed hips this winter , and It
will not bo because the old-time pad has
been resurrected. The wlso woman Is sim
ply paying moro for her corset and studying
carefully the lines of her figure. Even wlfcn.
not made to order , the trying on bus become
a serious matter. The straight front has
a very great nier't ; It simply starts in by
doing the very best for what Is already
there. The silk suspender garters are worn
attached to the fronts of tht > corsets , and not
at the sides as heretofore.EMILY
EMILY HAZARD.
IIIMTISII MA'I'KO.NS ItADl.V 1)ItIISSP.l ) .
An AiiK'i'U-iiii Olrl III I.iiniliiii .Malirs
an liili-rcxtlntr ) | > IM rr } .
LONDON , Oct. 0. There are some things
over hue that Impress an American as no.v
ami excessively timuhing. I'o begin with , I
have made a valr.iblrdiscovery nnd know
nnw why the English woman's costumes are
a laughing stock and why she dresses In such
wi1-tolled taste. Poor dear. It Is not her
fault at all. It Is a case of "Nolwdy askesl
mo , sir , she said. " Hero Is the way 1
found U all out. Doing In bud sartorial te-
Iialr myself , I went to a first-class London
tailor who , by the way. Is lialf French and
half Irish and had a heart to heart talk with
him on the subject of a gown. Having met
several British maids and matrons who pal-
ronlzo this &inio man , I was prepared to
fight my way through n fog of obstinate bnd
style In order to make clear what was
wanted. Plctuie my surprise to find the
"Costumier , " as they call such pccnlc over
here , not only ready to meet mo half way ,
but with fur smarter Ideas and suggestions
than -could supply. Then I broke down
and asked him how In the sacred name
of grace and beauty he Oarcil turn out biich
high-handed atrocities as my friends , his
customers , continued to wear. The poor soul
made .a clean breast of It and my luuit bled
for him and his Franco-Irish sense of Ill
ness.
It appears that women In these parts have
absolutely nothing whatever to say as to the
color , cut ot prlro of their clothes. H
tells me that a fat , florid woman over 40 years
of age , under fi feet 4 , came Into his shop a
week ago to order a flaming red
dress trimmed with Innumerable binds
of horizontal braid. Of courbo he
began to reason with her , but
she stopped htm short , said It was no
subject for argument , her husband , Major
Blank , bade her get a searlc-t dress strapped
with black and she would have that or noth
ing and , moreover , the major had given
her flvo guineas $ .11.00 to cover all ex
penses. With few exceptions , II says that
all of his orders are resolved In that way.
Women come to him Instructed beforehand
as to the shade , shape and decoration of garments -
ments they will bo permitted to buy , and the
exact prlco It Is permissible to pay for them.
The Individual perferences of the
woman or the exlRencles of her
figure or coloring have nothing to
do with the case. A girl may be tall ,
aparo and anemic , but If papa has a senti
mental iiaitiallty for yellow she wears it ,
if ho disapproves of trains her skirts are cut
short ; he.- nock and arms may bo as scrawny
as the Norway pine , but sleeves nre chcpjied
off and bodice cut down to meet his approval.
In substantiation of some of his statements
II Hhowed mo a number of costume's that
were under alteration because bows , basques ,
liuttonn or blouse failed to please the llrlt-
Isb lion at homo. And sllcli a. rare collec
tion of ugly clothes as they all were. Hut It
was ugliness mixed with the curious senti
mentality that English people display In un
expected places. For instance a rather
pretty little rose-colored silk was completely
spoiled by an absurd lot of black bugle trim
ming on the wnlst. II explained that ho was
sending It home to a colonel's wife , who or
dered those self-sumo bugles transferred to
every best dress she had made. Mr. Colonel ,
It seems , had courted her fifteen ycaru before ,
when wearing a bodice ornamented with this
particular piece of Jet , anil It was his com
mand and her pleasure to perpetuate the
bugles , no matter what the patting fashion
might be. Fancy a Iloston banker or a New
PINK I'OI'LINETTE.
York broken suggesting this combination of
sentiment and sharp economy to his better
half !
Hut Interference explains only half of the
dllllculty. The truth Is , miwt Englishmen
think it a weak-mlnilcd waste ef a good thing
to give mouey to women for mere clothes.
They themselves dress better and Invest a
larger proportion of their Incomes In wearIng -
Ing apparel than any men on earth. Prosper
ity to the average lirlton Implies an unlim
ited supply of neckties , fancy waistcoats ,
gloves , sticks and Immaculate frock coats. He
will submit patiently to any number of fit
tings and take all the padding lin ! tailor can
give him for sake of a trim waist and mili
tary shoulders. And under this patronage ,
behold what good frock coats homo of them
t.WORKING TO ATTAIN A SMAli. WAIST. /
I dovcarl A feather-headed American girl
, assured mo that , while driving down I'lcca-
'flllly the othtr. doy , ehe espied ono so fault
less In Its lirttuith of back , so graceful In
I sweep of tall , so < 6uavc In set of collar and
j sleeve that Mie < br.tered her cabby to go at a
foct pai P. and thus followed the adorable
j coat until It disappeared In the Junior Carle *
I ton club. A silly story , but It only proves
my point tlmfc Englishmen scrimp In money
ind hate on the women's wardrobe In order
to have that mupfo moro to expend on their
own ,
An Ingenuous paragraph In a London paper
ast week "gnvi < the whole snap away" as
slangy Americans are fond of saying. The
writer csbcrved ( hat Mrs. Gladstone expended
nucli time afnl thought every morning upon
the choice of a eoat flower for her dlstln-
ttlshed husband , who hlirself was hypercritically -
critically fnstldlono in making happy com-
lilnatlons In hU tics and wa'atcoat.i. ' though.
In fact , ho gave gra'vo consideration to all
questions ef his toilet. The paragraph con
cluded with thn remark that .Mrs. Oladstone
was Indifferent to the point of carelessness In
her own dress , i\idcntly : there l not sufll-
clcnt interest In the matter of clothes for
two In the Hrltlsh household , and consequently
quently the wife gnes bogging.
Nor docs this stite of affairs relate simply
to outside gnrinmts , coats , frccks , etc. On
the opposite side of the channel 1'ar'alan
seamstresses nuke and 1'arlblan women wear
the most encban'lns and artistic lingerie In
Urn world. The elegance of the French cor
ed and gay i-oiiuetrj of the French petticoat
ore recognized to the very ends of the earth.
Yet such feminine trlvo'/.tks seldom ciojs
the clnlk cliffs of Dover. As an experiment ,
try to buy anything of the sort In London.
Stern , serviceable cottona , set off by hard ,
unyielding laces , the whole awkward In cut
and clumsily put together , are the favorite
underwear sold In the shops.
At Hologno this cummer I chanced to UFO
the same bath .HOIMO . with two extremely
attractive English girls. Their mother was
my lady , the widow cf a toliMer who bid
earned distinction In the Indian service , and ,
dyliif,1 , had left an ofilcer's pension to his
family. I am Ignorant as to the exact
iimount of this Income , but the only son
kept a couple of hunters and several doss ,
ho belonged to smart London clubs and was
always turned out to four pins. HI * sisters
told mo that their yearly allowance for dress
and pocket money was precisely 10 $200
each , and ono would hive thought as much
to have seen the mcagornoES of their ward
robes. American i.'lilfl of equal birth and
breeding would ha\e shuddered 'to wear the
cheap shoes , thick CD'ton hose , stout 1-ul-
mcral skirts and ugly underclothes they dis
played In the bath houses. I venture to tay
that their brother paid as much for one pair
of riding breeches us his sisters spent on
their bonnets in a counlo of years. Now ,
the odd side of It was thaf those girls had
no sense of Injustice In the mat'er. They
seemed to think It was all right , nnd walled
the young man hand and foot , obeying
iilm Implicitly In all things. Under these
circumstances what clunce , pray. Ins t.'io
English woman to compote with her drtade.l
American rival ? Uncle Samuel's pretty
daughters realize fully what a weapon for
defense and aggresslcn goad clothes are. aid
In the splendid plumage provlled by an In
dulgent father or husband In the htjlcs , they
simply sweep all before them In London.
They are kow-towed to by the shopkeepers ,
envied by the women and cnthu IiEtl'-ally
admired and courted by the men. You can
recognize an American woman abroad by t'le
perfection of .her . toilet long befoie you hear
the swish of her silk petticoats. She hthe
most eloquent Illustration of the American
man's wealth'of generosity blooms like n
rare exotic In ithe boundless wai3tes of drcjry
Knglibh clothes.
( ' ( Mil'iKUK ' VV(7 > IKN \VIVHS. .
What nn ' ' - - Wottiiiti Slilcl tit n
Tbo following extracts are from an ad-
ilress n.rtdc by Miss Clara Ilostwiek , a
teacher ut the Elins school Ju Springfield ,
.Mass. : '
"What 1 ? the college woman's probability
cf happiness lii matrlpgo compared with that
of her less highly educated sister ? She
chooses her husband later. She Is more tU ,
veloped ; she kio.\ | better what she Is going
to be ; she stands , ii | better chiiice of not
sejettiug < life companion whosV tastes and
tiers will prove hopelessly antagonistic. And
this Is cf especial Importance In America ,
whole girls and bovs are thrown FO freely
together ; where they marry when and whom
they vviali , and vviere the parents in many
cafc-3 apparently have little else to do with
the matter than to pay the bills and try
to shield the young husband and wife from
the consequences cf their folly. The man
whom a gill would have married vhen she
entered a college Is probably not the man
whom she would , marry when she Is gradu
ated from college. This nviy result in the
breaking of some early engagement , but an
engagemc..t that can be broken would bet
ter be broken. The collese-breJ woman Is
also less likely ( o marry from tm.mil. Even
if she Is unfoitunate enough to have no
definite wcrk , after she leaves college she
'las resources within herself vvh.ch pan not
only prevent life from becoming a bore , but
which can make It rich and oitlsfylng.
Neither will she be llkelj to sell herself for
the sake of a home. She Is better equipped
to support herself , If necessary , and she has
probably lost many silly Ideas she may have
had about the unladyjlkcness of honest ,
broadwlnnlng work.
"Fli-ally , 'when she has been won , she
stands a much better chance of keeping her
husband's love and respect , because she
stands a better chance of Interesting him.
' 'Men don't stay In their homes unless
they find their homes entertaining , ' BJid a
married woman of wide experience In the
world. In talking about the education of her
daughter. 'I tell my daughter that If j > be
Is ever to marry she needs to know some
thing for two reasons ; first , to hold her hus
band's interest ; and secrnd. to have within
herself resource ! ? that will make her happi
ness , to a ceitain extent , Independent of
him ; In which case ho will bo much more
likely to stay In love with her. '
"The statistics in regard to the marriage
ofcollege women will nat bo complete unfll
we have also the statistics In regard to their
divorce. The statement has been made ,
whether truly or not. that as yet no Vassar
graduate has been divorced. Of course , all
college women are not Interesting , any inoic
than are all college men ; but the four years'
companionship with 'noble thoughts' ought
to make one at least less stupid.
"Mate the educated woman with the edu
cated man and you have a probability that
they will continue to Intsrest and love each
other ; that there will bo Intellectual com
panionship between them ; and that each will
Imvo sulllclent respect for the other's mental
ability and moral sanity , to make pos lblo a
government of the home and the children ,
not by 'managing' each other , keening clear
of a pandering to each other's foibles and
prejudices , but by flank and fearless , dis
cussion as to what Is reasonable and right.
This Is not ( .liil condlllon of affairs In most
liomes. ' , ' (
The women of , ( ho higher education bring
to inotherhoodj/too , . a better preparation thane
] o those of ' 'smaller opportunities. The
reasons for tlj'Jfe are'both physical and men
tal. They aroj as ra rule , older , physically
mature ; and 'Ulio opinion Is held by t-omu
physicians that , , for'the sake of the physical
licrfectlon of Iho race no woman should
marry until she Is it5. They have \vlder
riuowledgo of physiological and psychological
laws or thcyj.liavi ) , the ability to acquire
It which must'bring forth beneficent fruit
In the rearingof' ' their children. They
know moro pr6fpu ' \ ' > ' tll ° responsibilities of
motherhood ; ami their realization of the im
portance of dc-UVlltf In the training of a child
disposes them Wqtk \ | upon whit might seem
drudgery , to oihfln "uiomeu , as glorified , educa
tional opportunity ' _
KIVI3 'OK ' A KIND.
Atlilrllr JIiivcuirlitN L'lilcnlnlccl In Itr-
iliiittli Slxo < > f tiltVuUt. .
Athletics which luluco tlio ulzo of the walft
and secondarily affect tbo digeatlvo organs
are of the utmost Importance , at least as
far as the latter are concerned.
Five movements , which should bo prac
ticed at least thrice weekly , are as follows :
Movement No. 1 Lie flat on the floor , face
up , then , with extended Insteps and straight
knees , raise and lower the legs very slowly.
At 11 rat the elevation muet bo slight , a few
days later the angle may bo ninety degrees ,
and still many days after forty-live degrees ;
the amount of elevation may bo indicated
by "slightest elevation" "all the way up"
and "half way. " In doing this exercise there
! apt to be a tendency to move tbo arms
up , which mutt bo overcome.
Movement No. 2 Kneel upon Ihe floor , the
ballg of thu feet resting upon the floor , BO
ttat the steading position CUB bo resumed by
AX AFTERNOON AT IIOMK.
merely mov'ng the center of gravity back
ward and then extending the legs.
-Movement No 3 With the trunk erect and
the arms extended vertically above the head ,
the hands touching , sway backward and for
ward , as fur as possible , without losing the
balance. Kor a variation , raise alternately
the right and left foot , holding the knee bent
at a small angle.
Movement No. ) I'laco the feet firmly
and well apart , hold the arms out straight ,
then bend the body no thnt ono hand touches
the llonr while the other Is pointing straight
up In the air. Now turn the body so as to
fnco the other foot and put the other hand
down to the floor ; so alternate many times.
Movement No. u. Stand perfectly erect
and then bend over , touching the lingers to
the floor without bending the knees.
While performing athletic exercises o ! any
description it Is Important not to check the
r.s ; i atlo ) . The he d mint be hald well back
and the chc.st well expanded. Hear In mind
that thu movements Just di'sciibed must be
taken vciy , very bluwly. The toro will want
VIOLET COSTf.ME.
to come off the floor the effort to keep them
thorn develops all the waist muscles.
These movements aie very simple , but
they partly solve the pioblem of how to ob
tain excrclso without too much expenditure
of tlmo and energy.
I'VmliiliK * 1'iiNliIiiiiH anil I'inrI .
Wo have Klondike collars on our Jackets
now , and they are all the name suggests
as regards height and protection from the
cold.
Transparent fabrics of every description
draped over satin , reppcd silk or moire will' '
bo an extremely fashionable feature of even-
Vig dress this winter.
On cloth gowns for dcml-dress wear braidIng -
Ing In tan and gold Is much employed , and
black and steel appear on gowns of prelate
purple and Danish blue.
In Venice many women have teen seen
shopping In bonnets made of glass. The
craze has reached I'arls , and It Is said that
glass bonnets will soon be sold In London.
Among novel fancies In evening dress are
lilouso bodices cut out low and rounding In
the neck : these made f silk net crossed In
d'amond patterns , with bands o ( ( > carl , strass
and jewel sequins.
A remarkaUy pretty trimming for the
henits oC a plain Bilk skirt may bit achieved
by three-Inch wide gathered frills , bet
closely ono to the other from two small
tucks of the silk ,
Oveisklrts or draperies are said to bo fully
established in fabhlon's fiver ; but at present
they appear mostly In bide panels , reaching
to the bottom of the dress Eklrt , which
shows between back and frrvit.
An embroidered silk belt has a cut steel
buckle set with semi-precious stones , and
bands of steel and stones appear at Intervals ,
crossing the belt. Amethysts are pretty with
the steel combined with violet tints In the
rlbbcti of the belt.
An entire costume made of black frlse vel
vet , with the skirt plain and the bodice at
the Russian order , Is also a late arrival from
I'arls , and lias braces of jet and an inner
waistcoat of plain black velours , showing a
cravat of cream-color lace.
Now that M. Cachet has discovered a way
of making silk from spldcr'w web women
will have to conquer their aversion to the
llttlo Insect. Factories for making this silk
will doubtless f.oon be erected and then the
spider will become a valuable possession.
Nobby bells for outing gowns are In the
natural leather color and studded like dog
collars with round nail heads , three rows
of them , the larger In the center and tbo
smaller nearer the edge. Other belts for
the tame uzo have a plain square buckle ,
like a serviceable .trunk utrap buckle.
Very effective vests are made of some of
the new delicately colored plaids ; new plaldcd
materials are made up Into very smart cos
tumes combined with plum colored , brown or
dark green cloth. The plaid , as a rule , Is
made up on the bias , but Iho skirts of tanan
materials are generally made up In similar
form , and this 1s a mistake ,
An odd and extremely pretty bonnet or
Uxjuw lias * crown of purple velvet laid in lr >
regular folds. This Velvet Is surrounded by
roses of an indescribable color cherry rose
It might be called , If such a shade can be Im
agined and at one side of the front wus a
stranding bunch of blue flowers having only
a sl-.ado of purple In them.
tuitions large and small , plain and fancy
vesting1) , soutache , mohair Milan , and all
silk braids , elaborate appliques , military or
naments , and Intricate motifs In beads and
silk cord each and all play their part In
the decorating of plain and dressy tailor
gowns for the winter.
Very broad brimmed black velvet hats In
Ilubens style , turned up at one olde. , are
trimmed with very long , very broa 1 ostrich
plumes drooping well over the brim on each
side of the face. Ati the back Is a standing'
prlnco of Wales' plume , the three tips of
which curve toward the crown , and Just in
front Is a low , broad 'bow ' of velvet , with a
buckle of Kreneh 'brilliants ' In the confer.
Green In its bilghlest and most verdant
hue is making Its appearance. A bright
red waist of line flannel as red as a piece
of rod flannel can be has the band down
the front , through which the buttons appear
bound on either edge with bright green , and
the little round cloth-covered 'buttons ' are
also of green. A red silk waist with fine
hemstitched tucks , and a pouch effect , has
a green 'belt. ' Gold or gilt belts nude of
different designs in shields linked together
have lines of green enamel upon them.
Will ill 1IIC * I'd'HIttllllH.
Mrs. Helen V. illoswcll , the organizer and
head of the Woman's Republican movement
In New York , Is a mining tr.sineur . and ranks
high as a mining draughtsman.
Mary Anderson says she will act no more ,
neither shall she sing In public , although
she Is said to have cultivated her naturally
sweet voice to a high state of perfection.
Miss Shldzu Naruso Is a Japanese woman
studying In a New York hospital. She has
been trained in Japanese hospitals , but f ime
to this country to study American methads.
Two hundred young women of Atlanta ,
Ga. , have organized a company and asked
for < a charter 'permitting them to become a
part of the national guard of the atato.
Mis. K. W. Fackler of Dayton , 0. , has
fallen heir to an estate In Germany valued
at $20,000. Her title to the estate was
established by a family blblr In her pos
session
Mis Gladstone always selects hoi
husband's attire for the day , and In particular
arr.iuges for his buttonhole bouquet in whuh
matter lie Is most .fastidious.
"When , the little- girl Is naughty. " siya
Miss Jesslo M. Fowler. Riving a mot In r
directions for curing her small Aiughter a
bad temper , "put on her best gown , and j'Ut
will see th.it she cannot wlth tnud its in
fluence. "
MUs Maude Gonne , Irish Joan ofre who
for years luis been at tinhe.id of ihe Irish
national movement in I'Yance ' an.l whoso
efforts to promote the establishment of iho
Irish republic have met with wide mpaitiy
aiiKiig the French people , Is coming 10 this
country.
According to a Paris paper Dnnna Eh In
do Bourbon , daughter of Don dittos , wh IM )
elopement with the palrter. Fob-Ill ne.itid
inch a sens.iticn last year , has taKen a mliu-
llcin in a New York millinery establishment ,
where she makes hats ficm II o'clock In the
irornlng until 7 at night.
Colored women are said to possess Iho
qualities of gentleness , patience ami sjiuia-
Uiy required In a trained nurse. An elT r
Is to 'bo ' made to open a training srhool i < r
colored nurses In Charleston. Into whlrh ihn
more intelligent women of the race will no
admitted.
LI 'Hung ' Chang has appointed \\onin
physician to practice In his own fainltvno
Is Miss Kng , the daughter of a Ohi'iim ' 111
who took his degree at an American mm i-
sity. She holds a diploma of the Woman a
Medical collcgo of Philadelphia. Dr Eng
and Miss Wang will represent China In iho
women's congress to be held In London Uiu
earning year.
There lives twenty miles from Oak 11111 ,
Tex. , a blind girl , Mary Ashby , who has
from a few acres of land cultivated 'by her
self , cleared about $200 each season for "sev
eral years by the growing and silo of vegeta
bles. She began with no capital and an
unfenced piece of uncultivated land. Thnre
Is now a mat fence about her domain , a
well and pump In the center , and she has ,
In addition to purchasing these , paid for 3
piano , and a wagon ti take her vegetable
to market , which Is twenty miles from hoi
home.
Most Unique Gonissf of the Age $200,0 ® Paid for
Sorred Lists made by Sapp5ysng Missing Letters in
Places of Dashes
Educate Read AS ! Particulars.
In tlio TJiiUrd Ktntcn four times much money ia expended for education 8 for the
military. Hraiii ia bettor than brawn , llyour educational facilities we have bcrniiu1 it great
nation. We , the publishers of IVomiiit'HVorlil nii'l JTrimcns IHIIIrr 'Vt < iillilj , Imvo
done much toward Iho cause of education in uiany ways , but now wo otlor you an Dppmiunitvto
display your knowledge and receive mohl gitiirronu puymi-nt lor u IIIIlo htiitly. Thu
objectut this.conteH istoglvonn impetus to many dormant minds to awaken and think j iilto
wo expect by this com netlucm of brains to extend tlio circulation of W < i > iinii' World u ml
Jnmrnu JUIllrr iWcilliIy to i.ucb o f\7jo \ that wo ulmll bo able to charge double the prwent
rate for advertising in our columns. Ily this plan nf increat-lng the number ( if Hilwilintcms ninl
receiving moro inonny from advertisers of Hoap.s , piano ? , medicines , books , luklnic ( xiwdiTK ,
Jewelry , etc. , wo shall add S/JOjOOO / a year to our iurouu- , mid with this mathematical deduc
tion bcforo us , wo have decided to operate this moat rcmarkublu "missing lettora " contest.
Thorn are thirty word * In this echcda'e ' , from each of which lot tcrshavo boon omltlcd
anil their places Imvo been niipiilloii liy dnxIiCN. To till In thu blank spacuH anil Kfct thu
names properly you must liavohouio knowledge of geography mid lilatory.o ivniit > < > n < i >
spoil out as many words nx you can , tliim honil to IIH with " > CI'IHH to pay for a three months'
cubscrlptlon to WOUAN'H WOULD. I'or correct lUtN w < i nliull tlv fs'JOO.OO In ciifh.
If moro than ono IMTMHI sends a full , correct list , the money will bo u winded to ( ho lltty tn il ili.ta
in appnaranco. Also , if your list contains twenty or innro coirect words , wo bhull t-enil you n
beautiful ICjicrlu IMumniul Scan IMii ( for lady or cuutlcinan ) , Iho reuular price of which la
S'j.aft. Therefore , by tending your list , you nro iwdilvcly certain of the SS.S5 in Ize , mid by hu-
ing careful to Bend it correct list you Imvo nn opportunity of the $ ! < ) < M > O mull mi nril. The
distance that you may llvo from Now York makes no itlllerenco. All have cqunl opportunity tor
wlutiiuc.
Prizes will l > o lionontly awarded jind promptly oi-nt. Wo pnbllhli thn lint of words to
boeludlcdout. III nmkliifi your list of uUBwcrii , beMiiu In glvo tlio number of each word :
t ' _ [ " ) " fl _ I I A country America. of South iC. B - S M - K A noted ruler ,
n _ fl _ I _ I _ Numoof lhoiire ] Htbi > dy
" ' of wutur , ,17. - GTO- | Aii'ilhrr noil-driller.
M-D -E--A E Am.-a. 1 8. P R U A Country of Europe.
M 0 A 1 rso river. J9A - 8 T A - I
T-A--8 Well known river of SO. M I N F of the rnn t
'
. 111 ' " u
1'uropc. prominent Anii-rlcutj
R fl M fl A city 111 nun of tbo
0 H n H - Southern Statoa. 21. T - A - ° I > 0 of ll' ° United Stales.
H X A c'ty ' ° f Canada. aa. _ - - - OIICH President of
tbu United bluu * .
s. Noted for display of
. N-A-A-A
watur. 33--U - N larifo Inks.
Ono of tlm United
9--E--E--E-
- Htatcj.
10. - fl - R | - A city of Spain. = SC - R - A J forclcn country , eamo
bUl
) US KulltiHB ,
ii H - V - - A A clly knomi < 3.
013rttudc.u } = . B - JJ 0 A large
12 M F A well known old fort = 7WM S W-R-0
0 " ' c or the United HUtcs. 7-
JO - - R Ifl I fJrcatustfortlllcn. tion In the world. = 8. B - H - I - G A e .
' 4S A LE A great explorer. = 9A - L - N - I - An ocean.
je. U _ L _ r - I- ' no tcrl of Sutea. the Uul- 3 ° . M - D - G - S - A - AntA1frc5ar !
t , , " fe"'ll IK your lint of fvordc. mention whether you want prize money sent \n
bank draft , money order or reglatereil mull ; vvo lll fnd uuy wuy that wluiierH iwiuirtThu
liU'i-rla UlaiiionUisui'iirfiiCt ' Imitation ufii Krai IMniiuiiiil of | uriaMzu. Wuilufy uzi.riu
to dUtliiKUtKh it from real < tcept by microscopic lost. In every respect it turves the iiurnr.to of
Gfiiiiliio Illunuuid of Fun-Mi niinlUy. It U artistically muunti'd III n lluoRulil'iilutuI Idn.
warranted to wear forever. This plecoof Jewelry will mnke n mint cluslniblo nlft to A frlnn I If
you do not need H yourself. Atpri-scntourHUppfycf theboKllUi llmllodmiirribcyuruiill ( icmu
whcu rour set ut answer * comes In. wo wliulln4 jou Oii.tifi In monuy Instead of the
Srni-f or Sliuu 1 Cln , BO yoiifchull oltlicr rccolvo thu pleco of Jewelry or thu rjulvali-iit It iuuli ,
In addition to yonr iiartlc patlvoluturwt In the 82OO.OOU1.li prize. TIiiH . iillriV.iia'r
IN nil JioneMt one , madu by urcsponelblo publishing liouvc. Wo refer loiiu-rcumllo uu-cn-
rlcN Ami any buiilc in Nunr York. Wo will promptly refund money to you If yon uro ilUtutls *
fled. \ \ hat moro can xvudo ? Kow study , awl eichaiiKo slight bruin work for cash. With your
list of answers nenil us crnln to jay for three mimlliH' n'lbwrlptlon ' to nur irreul fuiiillr
innnzlmU'oiiiuii'ij World. If you Imvo already subm-rlbo ! , mention tlmt fuel In jour
letter.und we w 11 extend your eubscrijitlon from the llnui tne | irewnl ouo tiplres. To avoid
lota In Beading til vcr , wrap money verycuref ally In paper beforolnrlo'iliiK In your letter , Adilruta :
" JAMES H. PLUMMER , Publisher ,
02 & 24 North William Street , How York City , N. Y