* &faiti\- "
10 THE OMAHA DAILY BEISi , .SUNDAY , SISPTMM 111311 20 , 1807 ,
jhOT !
' | l -S * r f M I *
AUTUMN HKAIHiKAH.
f.nfrftt Mniilfrnlnllniin f Hi"1 1'lc-
< tirr iiic | mill Ihi1 Iliiinuiillc.
NIJW VOUK , Sept. 23. The picturesque
Oalnslioro and old Valentine batr areto tlic
front again this season. They will divide
Iho honors with the smart lllilo toque and
genteel round bit tMs winter. Picture
hats nro always In favor , and the tip-lifted
offal recently much exploited In certain
periodicals nro apt to RVO ! their wearers a
rakish nlr not nt all desirable. This cafe
chantant nglo will doubtless flnJ favor with
the ooubrotto and halt world generally , but
not tolerated by the woman who Is strictly
good form , and will soon find Us way to the
muslo lulls , where It properly belongs.
Worn at the proper angle , however , and with
ft happy compromise on Its too Krctichy
features , the Qalnsboro la generally - becoming
ing , most successful and tremendously ef
fective , as wo can see In the old Ivory minia
ture , when worn with the supplementary
fichu over the bare neck and arms. A
novel trimming for round hati Is the Japan
ese duck the whole bird , legs and foot
complete. An artistic twirl of net , velvet
or chiffon around the crown and continued
over the top In two pieces , the whole form
ing a sort ot nest , and on tlila the bird Is
placed. Its Iridescent tints are very ef-
fectlvo against a soft light background. Thu
owl's hand , with solmcn eyes and fluffy
breast , la a smart trimming for toijuns.
' also stilish finish
Pheasants' tails nro a very
ish for English round hats. White lace
veils In point applliiuo will bo extensively
used to sotten felt brims. A very stylish
halt Is of brown felt with velvet puff around
the crown , ostrich tlpa at the side and a
largo black satin bow In thu Uck. The
straight brim Is bound with velvet , and a
white lace veil Is lightly draped In front and
caught up In loops and knots under the brim
in the back. On dark and HRhl hilr this
trimming Ii equally distinguished and a re
lief from Iho multitudinous flowers of the
late season.
season.A UANDSOMB TOIM7T.
A fetching toilet for the present season
U of armiiro de sole , very much trimmed
with lace. The skirt is draped with a double
box plait In the back and Is flat on thu
sides anil In front. The lace la In points lai
front , three rows forming an apron and
continuing round the back. On each side
of the front the Inco forma a double point.
The middle of the front forms a waistcoat
of Hat plaits , with two levers In cascade
effect , lace on silk opening over It nnd formIng -
Ing a high collar finished with a little plesso
ol mousscllne do solo. The sleeve Is serul-
bourfant. The black hat worn with this is
a stunning affair , the old valentine , very
much turned up on the loft side , and a
trifle on the right as well. Very full plait-
Ings of moussellno do sole end two long os
trich feathers curling gracefully from the
Iront. One solitary flower , a poppy , for
instance , breaks the rather stiff outline on
the left slilc.
A pretty gown Is of fancy wool. The Rklrt
is In little flat plalta on the front and sides ,
and fuller In the 'back. ' The bodice Iri the
back and sides of front is tight-fitting and
in Iho middle of front Is plaited and out
lined with embroidery In diamond shape
comet velvet. The neck Is square over a
chemisette of batiste trimmed with the
name. A piece of black velvet outlines the
square at the neck above the trimming.
The sleeve has n llttlo more than the usual
fullness above , and epaulettes as well. A
saucy rouml hat Is worn , vflth this costume
trimmed with Scotch njald ' ribbons and
needle feather.
feather.AUTUMN
AUTUMN FROCKS.
A pretty frock for autumn weather Is of
navy blue cashmere. The skirt Is side-plaited
all around The corsage blouse , with basque ,
Is opened In front and back and braided In a
small , scroll-like pattern. The square yoke
Is braided and opens in a point over a
plaited plastron with a high collar , which Is
trimmed with lace. The yoke Is braided like
the basqno In a small scroll. The alcove Is
medium tight , with n very little fullness at
the top. With this Is worn a velvet toque ,
trimmed with ostrich feathers. A handsome
tcllet is of dark moire ehaimeabli ! Klllt.
The skirt Is trimmed with a dellc-ito outline
of embroidery , forming a band. Thu effect
of this Is quite novel , nnd tlu > moire makes
n most effective background. Thu body Is , a
blouse , the back a llttlo full at the waist nnd
flat nbove. The fronts art- full at the top and
open over a chemisette of moussellne de
note , which l' < is u bright , stialght collar with
. . VUf.BNTINK HAT.
lace , plaited very full , nnd falling over the
back ; a largo bow and ends or mousse-lino d >
eolo U In front. The pointed ravers arc
umbroldoied In the snmu patterns as , thu
eklrt. The back Is decollete over the
chemisette , The folded bolt Is closed at the
tilde with a shirring over whalebones. A
fancy llttlo sllft niching finishes the rover. )
and the front of the bodice , Tl'.u nlouvo is
tight , with A slight fullness at the top , and
Is cut vrvy long , with a fall of lace ewer the
hand. With tills U worn u medium sized
lint , with n pin-crust velvet brim , This Is
turned up at the side and Kick with a rolling
effect In front. U has a full benf-caler croui
anil bird of paradise for trimming. Volvo' '
roses tn the hick ,
A very stylish gown U of cloth. The skirt
Is plaited In the back anJ trimmed on tin
bottom with llttlo galoons crossed and bor
dered by a bias pique or point surmouiite :
with rt soutache braid , The basque IR round
with a corsage vest ; the fronts are slight ! )
open 'and trimmed with galleon * to Imitate
rover * . Tills trimming IR continued over the
top of the sleeve , which Is almost tight
fitting nnd long over the hand In two points
A largo bow of moussclluo do sola will
jabot makes a In-coming Mulsh , With this Is
worn an English straw hat very slmpl }
trimmed with shaded silk and black wings ,
NAVY BI.UK amv.Ns.
A handsome gown Is of folltl navy blue
The aklrt 1 gathered In the back. The
body Is a blouse with a turn-dawn collar
over u standing one. The frock la but
toned at the side and has a wide rcvrr of
pUllcd surah trimmed with lace fattened
to the rlfiht. . The Kliuives are aeml-bouf-
faut. The folded belt and bow cravat are o :
velvet , The liat 1s a shirred affair of chif
fen llowcis and knife aigrettes ,
A pretty truck U in novelty goods In green
Thu skirt la trimmed apron fashion. Thu
bodice has the same trimming as the skirt
one atrip acroos the buft and a 1st go collui
extending ever the sleeves.
The filettva Is cut in cno pluce , with a
alight fullness tit the top. With this is
worn a very xtylUi round kit with a wld *
> rlm , trimmed with n niching of gauze and a
group of wings arranged fan-shaped.
Women are divided Into two distinct fac-
lens on the subject of hats , the rushers , who
Ion spring or autumn hits with such speed
nnd cagernrfs a.i to almost take one's breath
nway. These go by the calendar , regardless
of Imircdlato atmospheric conditions. They
ire the women who always look w.irm In
liolr previous auuimn gowns and chilly In
their very preimturo spring atclro ; who dis
card flannels an 1 boots for shoes end dln-
ibnnous garments almost before the March
wind * COIBO to blow , oven If the first days
of April are with us. iAII Iho powers nnd
pcrsuatlons possible would not avail to In-
luco the woman of this foolish variety , no
matter how the elements are warring , to
wear a felt hat offer Haster , or a straw hat
after they nro called in. It Is a noticeable
fact that these women are generally nervous ,
restless creatures , who find It hard to keep
an ounce of flesh on their bonoi. Tiio other
extreme are perhaps a trifle too slow , but
usually Independent in thought nnd action.
These love to "Umo" the new bonnet and
Ingcr lovingly over the tried and true friend
of a long season. The passing of summer
s always moro or less regretful ; sometimes
causes actual patn. They will cling to the
pallor hat .iml shirt walat just as long ai the
aw allows , and longer If not forcibly re
strained.
'A ' decided novelty In hats Is a shapeless
affair at first sight to look at. It Is some
thing llko the old-fashioned silk beaver In
: oxture , and If anything moro fuz/y and
ong-halred. They are pressed In und out
of shape with the same expedition as an
opera hat , except that the outlines are all
suft Instead of stiff. A llttlo Uuter manipu
lation , a punch hero , a shove there , a twist
at the sides , and the hat is ready for wear.
The solo trimming Is one or several quills
it acute angles , according to the fancy of
the wearer. The effect when finished Is
irutty much the same as that of the Tain
3'Shanter , as the crown Is of "heel eater"
dimensions when complete , and to begin
with , the whole being a comical affair , re
minding one of the Phrygian headgear ,
which Is the origin of all head coverings.
In order to clear up any possible doubt of t le
hat question , It might be us well to add
tiere that the old Valentino hats above re
ferred to are those familiar to bygone days
and tender memories of the llth of Febru
ary and the pictured beauties therein dis
cussed ; also that the needle and knife feath
ers are a compromise on the quill. And the
piecrust brim In velvet resembles the very
elaborate pastry the cook sometimes indulges
In to plcaso the children.
UMILiY HAZAIID.
moss OF u vmnvicici : .
InllTi'itlnK lllusl rntliiil uf Vnltir of
Mnri'lnirt * us nil Investment.
On September 10 the duke of Devonshire
will celebrate over all his great estates the
birthday of that truly remarkable woman
itiown variously as "Bess of Hardwicke" and
"Bess the Builder. "
Wide are the acics of the ducal house of
Cavendish and many Iho palaces and cahtles
of the race ; but every stick nnd stone owned
Liy his grace of Devonshire Is due. dlroctly
or Indirectly , to Bess of Hardwicke. Shi.is
the founder ot the family In every sense of
thi > word , and for this reason the feasting
and Junketing which will take place m
Devonshire house. In Chatsworth , In Llsmoro
castle , In Hardwicke and Holkcr halls , and
, n all the other mansions ot the duke arc but
'he suitable recognition of a great obliga
tion.
Befori > Bess of Hardwicke came the Caven
dishes were nobodies. Elizabeth Hardwicke
was bom September 10 , 1017-18 , the daughter
of ouo Master John Hardwlcke a small
landed proprietor In Derbyshire. John Hard-
wlcko owned 400 acres and was midway be
tween yeoman and gentleman. Moreover ,
Bess was only his sixth daughter , so that
BIT life began obscurely enough.
She never received any education to speak
of , being barely able to lead nnd wilte. But
heaven , to compensate for other lacks , had
given this little woman ( she was , says the
chronicler , "small and frailo withal , even as
aspou leafe , but quick of eye and tongue" )
a considerable allowance of good looka
lofty ambition , and a brain o > f the first order
At the early age of 1-1 she won and married
Iho ( list of her four husbands , Ilobert B'tr-
lowe of'Iiailown Hall , a consumptive country
gentleman. Her dowry was but 20 marks
( about $100) ) . and this was not paid In money ,
but In sheep and kiue. The consumptive
Barlowo only survived his marriage a few
months , leaving all his property to his young
widow. Next died Bess' father ; and he also
bequeathed his small estate to the lucky
sixth daughter. For some years the now
well-to-do Mrs. Barlowe remained In single
blessedness. Then Sir William Cavendish , an
honest knight of Suffolk , fell In love with
her. She Induced him to sell his property In
thu south of England and purchase es
tates in Derbyshire. These she caused
him to settle on her , thereby laying the
fdundntlcm of the Derbyshire acreage. Fi
nally she married the devoted knight ; and
from her sons by him descended the dukes
of Devonshire and Newcastle , the earls ot
Burlington , Lord Wnterpark and the Caven-
dlsh-Bentlncks. Sir William Cavendish
obligingly died In IBB" , end so Bess of I lard-
wloku added a third estate to her account.
Next she wedded Sir William St. hoe , cap
tain of Queen Ellznbeth'i. guards and loid
of rich lands In Gloucostcrxhlrc. Him also
she persuaded to settle everything upon her ,
and whom he died , four years later , she. be
came one of England's greatest territorial
magnates. Behold her now , far descended
Into the vale of years , but still buxom anil
attractive , winning the heart of a fourth
husband , this time no less a personage than
Gtorgo Talhnt , sixlh earl of Shrewsbury.
The earl had already four children by bis
llrst wife , so that ho could not settle his es
tates cm Countess nilzahi'th , but he did the
next best thing , bequeathing to her all his
Immense peieonal estate and n magnificent
town house. Moreover , he permitted her
to marry two of his children to two of hers
Bess confidently expected to outllvu Lord
Shrewsbury. Indeed , a favorlto saying with
her was ;
If t
I'll liavo tlvn.
Meaning , of courpo , flvo husbands und five
estates. As matters turned out , she was
disappointed. All her lifo long she had
hcon a great builder. No lees than seven of
the "stately homes of England" owe their
erection to her skill and table. In the
course ot watching the construction ot Wei-
beck abbey she caught a cold which settled
m her lungs and eventually killed her.
She left viut wealth nnJ ninny square
miles of property , willing everything to bo
sons by Sir Wllllnm CavpnillMi. Among the
great mansion * ) built 'by her are Hardwlcko ,
Chatsworth , Oldcotes , Holker and Welbeck
monuments well calculate to give her lastIng -
Ing fame.
The duke of Devonshire proposes to honor
his ancestress in good old-fashioned style ,
the ox will be roasted whole In every vll-
lago of the peak , a grand ball will be given
to the county families of Derbyshire , bon
fire's will blnro over the mountains of Waterford -
ford und Cork , while In lovely Dourm mouth
the fashlonahlo watering place practically
created by the Into duke , fetes will follow
each other In bewildering succession.
Altogether Ilccs of Hardwlckc's manes
ought to feel honored by the approaching
commemorative exercisra.
KITflin.'X Ul.OTIIS.
lion1 to Mniiitirt < nnil Herr ( n
Tlii-iu.
The woman ot this last decade of the
nineteenth century Is nothing If ahc Is not
dainty. She must nut to merely neat , but
fastidiously delicate nnd dainty In all her
tast < > fl und hnbltc. This , too , must bo tx-
hlbltt'c , not only In her toilet , her boudclr
and dlnlnu room , but It must be emphasized
In her kitchen.
It Is admitted by all housekeepers and
Iioniu makers that , thu kitchen and Its
noreessry furnlturr , utenalla and equip
ment and the cara of all these Is the
unerring test ot the accomplished house
wife.
The best cooks and kitchen maids must
have guldnnco from the lady of the dqmaln ,
whether It he a palace or a cottage. She
must know how tin- cleaning nnd clearing
up of the cuisine Is to be done , and see , too ,
that It Is done nt the proper tlmc.i which Is ,
of course , noon after each meal Is scrvnl.
This Is a moro or less troublesome and
vexatious duty arid certainly n more disa
greeable ami far less Interesting one than
the preparation of Hie meals. But when all
the kettles , bake and stew pans , gridirons
nnd toasters , potato strnlncr * . chopping
bowld and knives and forks have been
scrubbed md cleaned and put away , fa
only n first-class cook and kitchen maid
cnn perform these functions , aided by
sapollo and pcarllne and borax soap , wire
brush nnd linked chain scourer when the
whole feat Is apparently accomplished , thu
range polished , the ash and garbage cans
covered and put outside , the fresh roller
towl hung and the kitchen cloths washed
r.nd scalded and rinsed , then and them
those unsightly , wet cloths stare the maid
and mistress out ot countenance with the
question as .plainly . understood as If spoken
loudly , "What are you gong ! to do with
us ? "
Hang them where you will , they stare
at you yes , nnd swear nt you , In their
untidy , revolting homeliness.
No , you cannot hnng them out of the
window or under the sink , or behind the
door , or In n curtained corner. In one or
the other they will declare themselves nut
of place. When hidden they will not dry
and will harbor Insects. When put In th.i
air they mar the order and picturesque
beauty of jour lovely kitchen.
Why I did not patent an Idea which pamo
Into my top story when I was keeping house
In an Ideal llttlo apartment , not very long
ago , I do not know. I meditated long and
painfully on the dllcmmmn ot the kitchen
cloth question and I hope some one will be
wiser In a material sense than 1 was and
profit by the above suggestion and the fol
lowing description of my proposed solution
of my problem. Here It Is. I give It
freely , pro bono publlco :
From the center of a pedestal of strong
PLDL5TAL
AND 6HAFT (
COVER OR
Of DISH CLOTH CUpBOARD
Iron wire , the wire about ns Inrgo as n
man's little linger , draw up n centered shaft
of the same with hooks along the sides of
the shaft. These hooks are Intended to
hang the kitchen cloths upon. Tlie size of
the pedestal , the height of the shaft and
number of hooks must be determined by the
number of your cloths. I think I would need
n shaft nt least eighteen Inches high with
eight or nlno hooks for the number of
cloths < [ would use. Around this shaft nnd
attached to It nt the top and on ono side
of the pedestal place a cover 6f perforated
tin In the shape of nn old-fashioned tin
lantern. Two doors or one swung on hinges
and opening all the way to the top of the
cover will permit the hanging of the cloths
on the wire hooks within the case or
cupboard.
When the 0101113 have been thoroughly
cleansed , scnlded and passed through n
clothes wringer , hang them on the hooks nnd
close the door. Then place the case on the
back of the range , which 'ny this time ought
to be cool enough and Just warm enough to
send a current of warm air through the
cloths in the perforated tin covered cup
board. When they are thoroughly dr/ hang
the case or cupboard on a hook In the wall
or put It on a shelf , or the kitchen table.
Your unsightly cloths nro out of sight , and
are ready for future use.
Boar In mind thnt this kitchen cloth cup
board which you could have made by any
expert tinner at n small expense Is In
tended only for those kitchen' clothes which
are used for the floor , the sink nnd for the
general cleansing , oiling or greasing of
kitchen utensils , Cup , glass nnd polishing
towles , and chamois sklni should be hung
on a towel rack placed on ono side ot the
kitchen.
Old towels or rags should never bo used
for the kitchen floor or linoleum , for the
sink or any tit the cullnury vessels and
utensils. Cloths Intended for such uses are
sold In all house furnishing departments of
the Inrgo retail stores In Now York , and In
every largo nnd small city throughout the
country. The prices for these are BO
ridiculously small as to place them In the
kitchen of every one who can afford a house
and a kitchen. Those Intended for thu
rougher work are woven of strong cotton
threads , lound and well twisted , but woven
loosely. They are rold In ready hemmed
squares , of Just the right size for the
purposes for which they are Intended. Then
( hero are wash cloths and dish cloths , some
of which are woven with a sort of knotted
or bourle pile similar to that of bath towelIng -
Ing , but not RO much like plush or velvet.
Cheese those which nre rather loosely
woven , but bo sure that the threads of both
warp and woof aio round and well twisted.
Otherwise your cloths will be apt to shed
lint on your floor nnd vessels. This caution
It Is well to observn when making a selection
of your cup towel and glass cloth.
OM > STOUV OK TIH5 K , V. V.'S
Vlruliil"VoiiiiuiliuiHl IM
lull ( lit * Mi-n Arc Di-Ki-
On a night the last week the annual ball ,
the season event , was given at White Sul
phur Springs , writes a correspondent of the
Globe-Democrat. Virginia womanhood was
on exhibition and a inagnlrtcent display It
was , Powdered , court plastered , garbed In
the stylfs of colonial days , these daughters of
Virginia trooped In from the cottages till
they filled the spacious ballroom. The floor
was cleared , and the high-bred damsels
AUTUMN HATS.
moved through the stately measures of n
minuet. The sight was one to warm the
blood of n I'urltan. There Is no degeneracy
In the Virginia woman. On the- feminine
side the F. F. V. Is a living reality.
"Our girls , " said an old Virginian , sitting
In a corner of the room nnd following with
kindling eye the Indescribably grnceful sweep
of the long lines over thu floor , "nro bred
nnd trained just as carefully as they were
when Virginia was at the zenith of her
glcry. Their physical health , their educa
tion , their manners , are developed with the
same scrupulous nttentlon to detail that their
great-grandmothers received , The system
lias been handed di wnjrom mother to daugh
ter. It has undergone no change. It Is
preserved In all Its purity. Wo are very
proud of our women. 1 think If the \\luile
country could view this scene tonight It
would be conceded wo ha\c occasion to
be. But our mciii '
Once more the long linen formed and swept
down the room. The- gentleman of the old
school forgot to finish Ills sentence ns he
Joined In the vigorous applause.
"What Is the matter with the Virginia
men ? " was ashrd ttf.a lady In whose veins
flow the best of HIP' Onvnller strains , but who
has lived long Jnough to have grown blunt
of speech. j ,
"Whisky , " she replied , without hesitation
or qualification. '
The gentleman of the old school shook his
head regretfully as be added :
"I fear the m.lnt Julep Is too popular In
Virginia. " i
While Virginia womanhood Is as glorious
as ever , Virginia 'manhood Is to a degree
disappointing. .But thq explanation Is not
altogether Just , Due need not be long a
traveler In thh land to discover that , go
whore he will , nortli , west or south , ho will
find thu male Virginian lining positions or
mark in the eouummUy- Perhaps no other
state In the union lias sustained such a
drain of Its best blood In the thirty years
since the war. Certainly no state has so
widely scattered the flower of Us male youth
to grow up In .othcr 'parts ot the country.
In business , in th j professions , In the man
agement of transportation Interests , Virgin
ians are prominent from New York to San
Francisco , from Duluth to Galveston. By
this drain the state has snlned lu fame
abroad , but suffered nt home.
HUH I'iUIUI ) DI.ST1XOTIOX.
YoiiiiKixtVoiiuui In HitKiicMilty of
An > Wpiterii OollPKP.
Included In the faculty of Stanford uni
versity , California , Is Miss Mary McLean ,
who occupies the position ot assistant In
structor in English literature. Miss McLean
has the distinction of being the younge-.it
woman In the faculty of any ivestern college.
Her own alma matter , the University of Call ,
fornia , has not yet seen lit to open Its
faculty door to women , but Stanford , beluu
younger. Is less conmrvatlvo. Miss Mary
Mathilda McLean is a young woman of In
teresting personality. She Is of Scotch
stock , and has always been noted for her
serious temperament. She Is well endowed
mentally , though not remnrkable for a
robust physique. She Is ambitious and
decidedly earnest and thorough.
Miss ( McLean's family were Now Englanders -
ers when they ceased to be Srotch , and the
sturdlness of the race shows in this young
est scion. The young woman Is 23 years of
age , an only child , and has been carefully
reared. Her father Is Hcv. J. K. McLean.
D. D. , who has been In California for thirty
years , and Is known all over the west. He Is
the leading Oongregatlonnllst In California.
For twenty-five years he was pastor of th j
most powerful church of that denomination
on the coast and Is now president of the
Pacific Theological seminary. From her
father Miss McLean Inherited a penchant for
book learning and the study of science and
the languages. U was while In Now York ,
Just before sailing for Europe , that the offer
of an Instructorshlp in English at Sanford
came to Miss McLean. It was secured for
her by certain powerful friends , who
arranged to have It held open for her until
her return from Europe. Miss McLean went
( Irst to England , where she entered the Ox
ford colleBo annex. Later she studied In
Berlin and traveled extensive ' . Her health
Improved rapidly , and she paid close atten
tion to the methods In the various foreign
Institutions where she was n special student.
At Stanford Miss MeTJean Is to be an adjunct
to the chair of English literature. She will
Introduce a number of Eurnp'an methods ,
culled from thu great colleges , all of which
she has visited , Into her new department.
XIJW YOlllC'S \VO.MAN COIUIIiU.
Kornu-rlx Sln > llinliSIiiMx , Xo v Slip
Ml-il'il * ' 'I'In-in.
Mrs. Elizabeth ftlJLilW the woman cobbler
of New York Cltyt' Hiir llttlo shop Is In the
basement at 23 NoVth. ! Jlooro street. It was
there , uurrounded ' ( iyp ooU and hammering
away on n pair of men's shoes , that she
spoke of her work. > ' . ' ;
"I was born and' raised In Northampton ,
England , and began i to i make shoes when I
\\-js 0 years old. Everybody made shoes In
Northampton and phlldYen began at an early
agu to sew on strapi-'l began Just as other
children , but as I Jhad a taito for the work
I learned sooner , Wh n I was 13 Imade a
pair of shoes for iyjinother. They fitted
well , nnd she wore' diem for moro than a
year. But , " hero Mrs. Gill shook her head
und heaved a 8lghl".wouspd leather In thosu
days. All shoos Tuart good , solid , honest
leather soles nt the cbottom , They gave
satisfaction to thH''bu > ur and tliu makers
could take pride 'In cVcry fltltch of thu nuk
ing.
ing."About
"About the tlmp I was prown a friend of
mine who had come over to' this country to
work roturucd home on a visit and begged
mo to come back with her. I didn't mind ,
so I asked her If I could make a living If
I came. She laughed and said I could make
twlco as good a living here as there. So I
came. Wo landed in New York July t. 18C8 ,
lute ot an evening , about S o'clock. You
should have seen the fireworks they were
sending up down at Castle Garden. It was
grand.
"When I first came ovrr I made uppers ,
lint by hand and later by machine. I
earned from J10 to f2ft a week In that way :
then when I came home at night I often
mended a pair of shoes , Thouo were the
days when you got $1.50 for mending and
half-tiollng. You see , I made a lot of extr < i
money In the evenings , lu England I ncu > r
made wore than 21 shillings a week , and
\Uiun , I made that I thought I was doing re
markably well , for those were the wages
of first-class men with tiades , such as car
penters , In 1S7S , ten yearj after I came
over , machinery for making- shoes was so
much Improved that there was no demand
for people to make uppers , so I hung out
my sign as a repairer. My shop was on Mill-
ourry street , and I had just as much as 1
jould do. My regular price for repairing
and half-soling now Is jl , but everybody
. -ants me to do It cheaper. They want to
beat mo down to GO cents. I nlwviya toll
them that at that price my materials cannot
bo good nor will my work last. I hate to
1o It because I have no prldo In a slovenly
Job.
"Then , too , the shoes you wear now nro
not half so good as they used to be. They
have such ugly shapes. Those ones with
p-vlntod toes are horrible. The Idea of anyone
ono wanting a shoe thnt has to have two
Inches of the too stuffed ! While they arc
not nearly so good they ale very much more
expensive. Why , In my day a woman could
buy a beautiful pair of shoes for ? 1 and
have a pair made to order for $1.25 ; now
look wiiat they have to pay for them and
see how they wear out. Why , I know n
woman who bought a pair of shoes for her
llttlo girl the other day at 49 cents , and the
first tlmo the child wore them out she got
them wet and the soles dropped off. They
were pure paper. Shoemakers didn't play
such tricks as that In my day. "
ins MHII.VATIOX.
lloirin Ilively IvpntiickyVoiinm Cuiii-
lilllu'iK-d far Her lluslHiiul.
Ono ot the keenest and shrewdest poli
ticians In Kentucky today Is Mrs. James B.
Camp of Louisville. Her ability to direct and
come out successful at the end of a campaign
Is lecognUed by all of the state politicians ,
and when she enters a fight few care to op
pose her. Mrs. Camp , until a few weeks ago ,
was. known socially only. She Is the daughter
of Judge W. B. Hoke , who for thirty years
comes of the oldest families In the blue gmss
state.
Her methods ot campaigning are not only
unique , but daring. She made her reputation
as a political worker in four abort weeks.
In the Louisville inlmary , Just over , Mr.
Camp was Induced to enter for the democratic
nomination for tax collector. When hu an
nounced himself as a candidate Mrs. Camp
began a political canvass that opened the
eyes of the Louisville politicians. She visited
tlie factories and shook hands with the men ,
who , when the dinner hour came , found n
alee , wholesome dinner spread for them , with
i freshly tapped keg of beer. She visited
houses that were building and talked to the
men , climbing high luddcis to reach them.
She -went - Into the slums -ami distributed her
husband's cards. She visited the levee and
talked to the loustaboufs , many of whom are
democrats , at the time of the primaries. She
went to the tenement houses and made
friends with the wives ot workmen. Her hus
band's rivals laughed and pretended to belie.-o
that her work was having no effect , but they
SHIIinED HAT WITH KNIFE AIORBTT3.
were wiser when the primary woa over and
the result announced , for James II , Camp
n first , the lest nowhere.
Few women can show Mrs. Camp thu way
awheel , and she U also rci'ognl/.cd us one of
Iho most graceful horsewomen In Kentucky.
She ( ilays tennis and golf , shootn well , swims
like a duck and dances divinely.
THU CIIODKUX M.um\ .
Slip In Not nil Timid UN HIT Slxtpr of
l-'ormrr Yt-ni-H.
"The moro that I ace of the modern girl , "
said a young matron to a New York Suu
reporter , "tho moro I am Impressed with
the contrast between her ami the girl of
well , even of flvo years ago , She Is so
much older for her age , Is possessed ot such
undaunted aplomb and savolr falre. Why ,
nothing Ecems to 'phase' her , as the col lego
boys say. When I was a Klrl , the damsel
of 18 was a shy , timid little thing , with
years of development before her. Youi-
IS-ycar-old nowadays Is a woman , In looks ,
thought and experience. Sbo Is evciy whit
as self-possessed and capable of holding hei-
o\\u as only Ui * woman of 25 used to be.
That Is what the glrla of 18 and 19 look
and act llko nowadays women of 21 or 2S ,
and It Is not surprising that a stranger nils ,
tskes them for such. I was Indeed aston
ished tllis summer to find that a coterie
of young women In a summer hotel , all of
whom had the air , as well as the appear
ance of women of thu world , were , every out )
of them , mere 18-year-olds not 'out' yet and
practically with no knowledge or exporltmco
of life whatever. I'm sure I can't nccounc
for It. It must be something In modern
education and up-to-dnte Ideas as to rhlld-
trnlnlng. But whatever It Is , It has done
away with the unsophisticated maiden ot
former years. Theio are no moro bread-
and-butter misses. From tlu days of thulr
cradle they 1,00111 to know It all. '
I-ViulitliiP KiiihluiiN.
White silk hose arc now made lucrusted
with fine patterns of Valenciennes or Mallnes
lace.
lace.On
On the early autumn hats white birds
seem to have a preference. Dressy hats are
still trimmed under the brim.
The Russian or blouse Jacket Is to be with
us nil winter nnd will bo seen In drros
waists , coats of cloth and moro expensive
oncB of fur.
At the present moment skirls nro nnrrow
at the top nnd aiu getting narrower toward
the hem , instead of coming out iu wide
llutcs , as they have been doing.
! A pretty Idea for a ball gown Is to have
I fringes of rose pstnls or shaded leaves hewn
, to a chiffon foundation. The effect Is ox-
i qulsltc , but the trimming Is very perlsh-
I able.
Six and a hnlf to seven yards of goods
are called for by the prevailing modes In
tailor gowno nnd they range In price from
7G cents per yard for plain cheviot or serge
to $1 , nnd sometimes more for novelties.
Some of Worth's prettiest creations this
year have rows and nn\H of white or pale-
color chiffon ruches , with tiny silk edgings
of the same shade. Black velvet pipings
also nro favorites. Flounces must be very
carefully treated to be a suecois.
Very smart folk are already wearing the
brightest shades of blue , such as sapphire-
and cobalt ; fawn , with a touch of green. Is
chic ; black is entirely out ; pink Is reviving
und for weddings and teas gowns of pink
broadcloth will be trimmed with snblo.
The Kccamler bodice made by French mo
distes has n seamless back , a bias front , and
is cut In a low rounding shape , the edge ex
quisitely draped. U Is quite long-walated ,
but this effect Is changed by n heft , wide
silk sash that is wound twice around the
waist , falling In long ends at the left side.
A number of rloth capes for early autumn
lap across the front like a double-breasted
coat , and fasten with two or three largo '
handsome buttons. This style of cape has I
small rcvers also , and Is slightly pointed
front and back , and rather short on the
sides.
The Victorian poke may become quite n
popular head-covering for a certain beautl- j
fully picturesque type of women this winter , i
made up In velvets of various shades , to !
match the costume , but It Is not to show I
Itself to any extent as a fall bonnet In felt |
or dark straw. i
Subdued colors among autumn fabrics In
monochromes and also In the display of
figured materials were promised , but a i
glance at the exhibits this week at all the
high-class Importing houses shows an array ,
of dress goods that are positively startling '
in their r-olor mixtures nnd brilliant unVcts.
These effects are pre-eminently gorgeous
among the checked nnd plalded materials.
The double skirt Is not becoming to many
women. It shortens In appearance a figure
to which every Inch [ s a distinct advantage , '
and , worn by a taller woman , one gets at
first sight thu Impression of a schoal girl '
who has outgrown her petticoats. A skirt
that has a second edition , which reaches to
Just below or Is on a line with the knees , (
will prove decidedly moro becoming , If !
double skirts are to become general.
Among the small wraps ot fur to be worn
befoie the genuine winter weather garments ,
are donned are double-breasted capes , fihurt J
on tlio sides and pointed front and back i
below the waist liuu ; Russian 'blouses In J
several styles , variously trimmed , and
double-breasted Etnns , decorated with fur
collars that contrast with the jacket In
kind. All these short , diminutive wraps
distinctly favor women who are lull and
slender.
For the coming autumn and winter the
proper fabrics for gowais will bo coverts ,
diagonals , broadcloth , icaniul's hair , Vene
tians , whipcords , Meres , cheviots , serges ,
zlbellncs and , whore more than ono tailor-
made gown la desire , ] , Srotch fancies. Tlie
latter , while very stylish , are not so food
for n staple gown as plain colors. The
tailor-made gown has'become quite a-i mm h
a part of the well-equipped wardrobe these
days as a drew for church , traveling or
calling , The reason for this la apparent.
It will servo for nlmost any occasion , uid
besides being useful Is smart In effect.
All thu most fashionable
out-of-door gar
ments are made with tlecves of extremely
moderate fil/i . that decidedly do not allow - i
low for dress sleeves that are the least |
elaborate. Still there nrc dome concessions
at the tops In the way of llttlo > rescent-
slmpod puffs , decorated caps and points ,
triple frills , bound or lined with * a contrastIng -
Ing color , etc. , and these mitigate in no i
small degree the ultra-severity of a Atylo
that Is llko a mousoquctatre glove , will'
nothing to relieve Its stiff outlining contour
a style moat trying to an arm either too
thin or too plump.
In headgear. Joneled crowns are greatly
In vogue , as arc velvet crowns with Jeweled
brims. Very largo white ospreys are being
worn , with black HIM. Hats are still being
tilted to one side. They are smaller In di
mensions , but have not degenerated Into
toques , as the full hrjm takes off that effect
They have begun to Incongruously mix
chiffon and velvet , In order , doubtless , to
compromise between the two seerons , and
a very -becoming mixture It Is , especially
with the addition of some good ostrich
plumes. Flowers certnlnly have not been
AO popular this season , rosettes of ribbon
rrid velvet to rest on the hair under the I
brim having largely token their place. * j
The bridal garter for the October brldo
is to be of white elastic. Running over the
surface of the clastic Is to be a dellcatu
tracery In the pattern of big flowers Hero
and there aru to be loops of narrow ribbon.
The buckle Is to be of rhlncstones In the
shape of a heart or a ribbon bow. The elas
tic is to be edged with a frill of soft , fine
lace , and under the buckle a tiny satchel
of Eome sweet frfgrance Is to bn tucked ,
Superstitions without number cluster
around the bride's garter. In the "land of
'likes" the bride wears blue garters , e
they will Insure a sunny brldil day In
flerinany and In Austria at weddings among
the nobility the bride's Barter Is eut Into
tiny bits by the svsord of omd klr.iuian and
dlitrlbuted among the comp.-ny as touve-
nlr.s. This time-honored custom Is ot Hou >
manlan origin.
l-V III ill I IIP NlltPM.
Anna Held Is learning English. A year
ago she did not know any , but Is rapidly
acquiring the language.
A recent writer says of Mrs. Qllphant that ,
though she appeared to read everything , she
was seldom Keen with a book In her hand.
Young ladles of Coralcana , Tex. , met at the
armory of the flarrlty rllen ! last week , and
organized a female military company , with
Miss Amy Tulley as captain.
Paplnta , the dancer , has bought a Califor
nia ranch. It contains 100 ncres nnd cost
? ir 0,000. When she bus ticqulrod n cotu-
foitnble fortune she Intends to letlie to tha
ranch nnd enjoy life.
Miss Beatrice Harrnden has become a
practical woman farmer. She cnn plow a
field plant nnd cultivate ( he hnmo. build
fences , harness hotses , etc. She rises very
early in the morning.
The queen of the Belgians , who was born
at I'csth In 1S3C , has just entered her < ! 2nrt
year. She is an admirable whip , and her
grcnt pleasure is dtlvlng her four ponies
over the charming country roads around Spa.
The wife of Black Hawk , nn Indian chief
of Oklahoma , heard that he was going to
cast her oft and get a new squaw , nnd oho
cut her throat. It was the firal suicide of
a squaw In the Cheyenne tribe.
The statement has been frequently made
that Miss Klngsley , who ling been lecturing
In this country. Is a daughter of Charles
Kingsloy. In point of fact , she Is n daughter
of Oeorgc Klugsley , n brother of Charles.
Mrs. Gooigo W. Conarrae of Philadelphia ,
n summer icsldent of Ogonqultt , Me. , has
given that village a public library , hand
somely housed and endowed , as a memorial
to her husband , who died In Ogonqultt a
> oar ngo.
Miss May White , who , though a white
child , has been brought up among the DlacK-
foot Indians , nnd refused to leeognlze n rich
Cincinnatlan who a few years ago claimed
her ns his daughter , has married n full-
blooded Indian of the tribe.
For thu first time In the history of Eng
lish colonial courts a woman has been ad"
in I tt oil to the bar In the person of a young
Jewess , Miss Ethel Benjamin. She is now
a barrister and solicitor duly qualified to
practice In the supreme court of New
Xoaland.
Mmo. Itocdoror of iRhelms , widow of the
head of the champagne firm , besides be
queathing $110,000 to the sisters of St. Vin
cent de Paul In Paris and $40,000 to other
charities , left n tiust fund of $000,000 fnr
the support of the charitable \\oil.s In which
she was Interested during her life.
Miss Frances Goodwin of Newcastle , Ind. ,
a sculptress , who his recently completed , i
bust of the late Sehuylur Colfnx , vleu priwl-
dent under General Grant , 13 In Washington
arranging for the placing ot the bust in tha
nlclio in the senate chamber prepared for lui
roccytlon. The bust Is said to bo an rxi-ellont
piece of woik.
A chair of music In the University of
Minnesota Is to be endowed and ottered to
Fiauloln Anna Schnon Rene , who has al-
teady done good work In that institution.
Fraululn Reno is a g aduatu of the Roy-il
academy in Berlin , where her musical edu
cation was completed at Ilio expense of the
old Kilser Wllhelm after the dentil of her
father , who was one of the cmpevor'a privy
councillors.
Mmo. MarcUok. the widow of Max Ma-
retzek , the famous pianist , who died a few
months ago , Is ihnxitunud with becoming
totally blind. She Is llvlni ? In the Mnrotzck
homestead In Pleasant Plains , SMten Island ,
and Is nearly 70 ycais of ago. The slsht of
one of her e > os Is al-rady nine , and the ! s
to undergo an Oiieration ulth the hope ot
tdvlng Iho remaining cyo , on which a cata
ract has foimcd.
Missed Marj Ryan , Uiurn Ye-igor and Delia
II at hnvo been setting typo on the Breuktn-
rldge ( Ky. ) Newt for Home tlmo. A few
weeks ago a nctleo was plnced under the
clofk of the olllce , reading , "Am I on time1' "
Ono day lust week , when the girls came to
woik. the words , "A t.tlll tongue makes n
full stick , " stared them In Ilio fncu. Tbli
made them mad , and they demanded of ti'.i '
publisher that all such "moftocH" bo ro-
moved. The piiMI-h.-r irfusel , and the girtrt
nulKud out of the HU-f. not to rctu n.
, TTO Jirivo foiim/ / "
An absolute , permanent and kindly
vegetable cure for the tobacco habit.
. . "T STOP TOBACCO
suddenly and rack the nerves take
BACO-CURO it gently weans I
You don't tic ? labtrro , I'lru-turo foj , you t
Me , or (1 boxes , 3 boxei ( guaranteed cure ) S2.CO ,
llyour ( iruKRiitilnei not tell it , ve will :
Eureka Chera.S : Mf , CoLa Crosse , Wls.
TRADEMARK
POCANTICO
The Perfume of Violets" " " !
The purity of thu lily , the ylnw of tlm ruse ,
Qiid ttij tluih of lie bo bombliiu in I'bZi
( /ondrouH I'owdor