Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, September 19, 1897, Editorial Sheet, Page 10, Image 10

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    10 THE OaFATTA DAILT BEE : STXDAY , SEPTEMBER in , 1807 ,
liMU
- - - -
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-11 IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. ll-
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FASHIONS KOIl MTTMi MK.V.
The JVccilH if Siniill HOJ-M mill How to
.Supply 'I'lii-in.
NEW YORK , Sept. 16. There Is always so
much to bo said about the fcmlnlno sex on
the subject of clothes that small boys and
their needs are apt to bo overlooked. And
whllo wo must all admit that llttlo women
demand the first consideration on the score
of clothes , at least small boys have a right
to exact a certain degree of attention. There
ls not much difference nowadays In the mat
ter of clothes between the rising generation
and tholr elders. Simplicity and smartness
is the order of the day for the little children
of the rich. Datblng and grooming are the
first considerations , dress comes next , and
absolute freshness and freedom Is a slno qua
non. They are no longer smothered In lace
nnd embroideries , and the curly , long-haired
boby period of the boy Is growing steadily
shorter. The mother sighs tearfully at the
first crop of golden curls , but swallows her
HOYS' SUIT.
regrets bravely , for first of all BIB wants her
boy to be manly , to hold his head erect , and
carry himself as a fitting lord of creation
should , and thereby avoid even the first In
timation of the "Klrl-boy" stigma , so apt to
cling , and cause many storms of rebellious
tears In a tempestuous childhood , for tliu
first thing n boy knows Is that ho Is a boy.
The baby period , generally accorded to the
ngo of fi , Is soon over , and very shortly after
the childish bpsom begins to swell with n
secret envy of the other fellows , their sen
iors by a year or BO , who have already at
tained the dignity of knickerbockers.
A protly dress for a boy.from 2 to 4 years
la a one-plccu yoke dress made of light blue
or white galatea , plain or striped. The large
yoke and shield are trimmed with narrow
white soutache braid. This Is also a pretty
fashion for making brown /Hollands / , pique or
'duck , and Is a compromise over the baby
girl frock and the more mannish kilt , which
comes next. The zouavo kilt , to bo worn
with blouse waist , Is made of fancy wool
mixtures , Scotch plaids , velveteens as well
os plain colors. The ono shown above Is of
royal blue cloth , with small braided pattern -
torn all around and tbo deep collar and cuffs
In a very elaborate design. The skirt Is a box
plaited kilt. Llttlo boys from 3 to 5 wear the
kilted skirt In plane , duck , velveteen , brown
Holland * , cloth Scotch plaids , etc. "With
these Is worn the blonso waist of whlto mus
lin , tucked or frilled with round collars edged
with embroidery or lace to match the ruffle
down the front. Wide silk tics of crimson
surah , Scotch plaid , pink or blues , In short
oil or any of the colors In the rainbow , are
Iho finishing touch. Some of these are sim
ply hemmed and tied In a large bow. Others
SUIT ETON.
have bows all ready made with elastic to pass
under the collar and fasten with hooks and
oycs ,
SMAU , BOYS' nitnss.
A eervleoablo dress for a boy from 3 to C
years of age ls niailo of fierce. Tbo uUIrt Is
cut U > one piece , and the material forms
wldo box plait In thu front , and the ro-
malnder Is kilted Into the waist all around.
The skirt Is sewed on to a foundation bodice
to keep It up. Tbo coat U cut with a aide
piece. The fronts are rounded off at the
waUt , showing a vest of serge , willed but-
, < oni flown the center. The neckband and
Drolling collar are of serge. Tbo coat IB
filled out with three pocketu much to thu de
light of tbo small boy , who laves to fill them
with samples of everything under tbo sun ,
A very becoming suit for a boy from 4 to 6
years of age 1s of blue velveteen , and usu
ally rauku ea the "Sunday-go-to-mcetlug"
In hla wardrobe. Medium tight trousers to
the knee , the lower part braided In fancy
patterns. The short jacket Is Also braided.
With this Is worn handsomely embroidered
deep collar * nd cuffs and cream whlto surah
cravat. The blouse Is made of tine batiste
or tllk , with embroidered ruflle. Black elllc
tocklngs and patent leather shoes.
From 7 to 10 the UnlckurbocUer period
sets In. Corduroy Is most servlce.ible for
all-round wear. Hoys' shirt waist * aio In
order now. These are made of muslin , with
three plaits behind and the same number
of smaller plaits on cither side In front , or
full front with box plait down thn middle ,
fastened with small pearl buttons or gold
studs. Surah silk cravats In colors are worn
with these. From 10 to 10 boys wear negli
gee shirts , sweaters , outing and laundered
shirts , with standing , turnover and plccadltly
collars , straight cravat and four-ln-hand tie
and. In short , all the paraphernalia of a
man's outfit , Including the long trousers ,
which usually begin at the age of 14 , coat
and waistcoat after the fashion of the elder
brother.
IUCYCLR SUITS.
A pretty bicycle suit for a boy of 12 Is oC
brown cheviot knickerbockers and Jacket ,
or red , whlto or blue sweater according to
season. Tbo cap Is of brown cheviot to
match. Woolen stockings , very much the
same as the golf stockings , of brown with
yellow squares at the top. The shoes arc of
tan leather , and round toes , mark you , with
three deep groves In solo to prevent the
foot slipping from the pedal.
For high days and holidays velvet or
velveteen suits , knickerbockers and llttlo
round bolero Jackets In black , royal blue and
garnet , trimmed with silk braid. Black silk
stockkiRs and patent leather pumps.
From C to 7 kilts arc superseded by llttlo
tight trousers ending at tbo knee or Just
above. For very little boys in tbo first
flush of their debut from tbo kilted skirt ,
these llttlo trousers are tied with ribbons
at the knees. The same blouse , mentioned
above , with llttlo bolero Jackets , Is worn.
A particularly stylish outing suit Is of
checked Kngllsh cheviot with full knicker
bockers to the kuco and half loose Jacket
with two side Beams , the two fronts barely
touch , and are denned by two rows of round
buttons. The turnover collar and wldo
rovers are faced with cream white serge ;
the coat sleeve Is plain. The Jacket Is con
fined at the waist by a stout belt of alli
gator skin with a harness buckle. With
this Is worn tan shoes and gaiters with golf
socks or stockings. The wheeling suit Is as
much an Indispensable adjunct to tbo up-to-
date boy's outfit as his sister's , aud others
that can bo used for golf as well Is made
of corduroy or Imported cheviot. The full
knickerbockers arc fastened at the knees
with a strap and buckles. The loose
Jacket has outside pockets with buttoned
flaps. A fUnnel shirt has a boxplalt down
the center and a high turnover collar In
whlto flannel , or the laundered variety If
preferred. A crimson silk cravat makes a
pretty spot of color In autumnal surrouad-
Ings. A Jockey cap Is worn with this.
For boys who have Imbibed several drafts
of anglo-mamias from their much-traveled
Hlstcrs the Kton suit , from the ugcs of 10 to
14 , Is very stylish. It has , however , never
attained tbo same popularity hero as abroad.
With tLli , of course , the long trousers are
worn.
FOR LITTLE
The wise mother of several boys , or even
ono , for that matter , will see that they are
provided with overalls. These are very nec
essary for thoS)0 who have suburban homes ,
and Indulge In outdoor sports to any degree ,
as any well regulated boy In these enlight
ened days has been brought up with a proper
taste for. Overalls are a great savins here ,
and little bo s from 3 years of age to 11 can
enjoy their saving grace. The favorite ma
terial for these Is blua denim of the regular
farmer's variety and pattern. A llttlo boy
of 3 or 4 "looks too cunning for anything , " to
quote the usual fond mamma. In thcsa hlgh-
walstcd little work make-believers. The In-
Olspensablo deep outside pocket Is a conspic
uous 'feature on the right side. For boys
of this ago a funny llttlo deulm Jacket , with
outsldo pockets and uncompromisingly
straight front and back , Is sometimes used ,
making the suit complete. Older boys dis
card thU accessory with scorn , preferring to
revel In shortslecvcs aud suspenders , Just
like a man.
Blue serge suits with brass buttons are
a novelty for the coming season. Thuy are
made with medium tight trousers to the
knee , with three buttons on the outside
scams. The front and sleeves of the jacket
are likewise ornamented. With this Is worn
the aero-plastron , & fiat piece nultc as long
as the average waistcoat , nnd there are wldo
pieces extending under the arms and securely
fastened , and make an entirely separate and
distinct feature unllko the old chemlsette-
Ilko affairs , which were much shorter and al
ways slipping out. The upper part of these
has a little design , usually a sheaf of wheat
or two , forming a clrclo and embroidered In
the oanii ! color as the suit. These plastrons
are also worn with bailer suits.
For child's fancy dress party a pretty cos
tume for a boy from 7 to 10 Is a toreador suit
of plum-colored velvet. The knickerbockers
are skin tight to the knees. The two fronts
are elaborately embroidered In crimson. The
outsldo seam Is trimmed with a strip of crim
son satin ribbon edged with a row of small
mother-of-pearl buttons and finished at the
bottoms with a large bow of crimson satin
ribbon. The round Jacket Is elaborately em
broidered with silk braid , bound with crim
son 'satin ribbon and edged with small pearl
buttons to match the trousers. Turnover em
broidered collar has rovers. The sleeve is
embroidered top and bottom , and finished at
the -wrist with ruffles of whlto Spanish lace.
The jacket Is lined with robln'H egg blue
satin. The blouse Is of fine batiste with
doubto rullle of Spanish lace down the front
and around the neck ! over crimson sstln rib
bon , with a laigo bow and long ends , Tbo
most at tractlvo fcaturo Is a handsome sash
of crepe do chine , with a satin figure and a
long , heavy fringe. The scarf Is trimmed Just
above tbo fringe with stars In center of each.
The sisli Is three yards long. The toreador
capu Is of plum-colored velvet , the top Is
embroidered In crimson and a large puff of
satin the samu color Is wound around In an
artlstlt- fashion , and this Is adorned with
crescents and stars galore.
THE GIRLS AGAIN.
A dainty frock for a little girl from C
to S years of ago Is of red checked delaine.
The skirt IB full and trimmed with two
straight rows of velvet. Tlio body la a
blouse , the back and front mounted on > a
largo yoke , and finished with a double collar
of delaine and black velvet , caught up with
little knots of velvet and trimmed with lace.
The straight collar and belt are of black
velvet. The sleeve Is tight above the elbow
and finished with quite a largo puff , the
forearm IH trimmed with three rows of pencil
velvet. With this Is worn black silk stock
ings and patent leather slippers with strap.
A very stylish gown Is of blue English
serge , The fcklrt Is perfectly plain. The
body Is tailor-made and tight-fitting , but
toned down the side. The bodice Is cut out
round at the neck over a chemisette
blouse of surah , and Is mudo with a llttlo
basquu ; a wide , black kid bolt outlines the
waist , and comes under the basque In front.
The bodice Is entirely without trimming ex
cept for BX ! loops of silk braid on cither
slcla. A plain turnover collar Is effective over
allk chemisette. The dlcovca are tight-fitting ,
with a very slight fulness at the shoulder ,
and finished with a deep cuff , which baa llt
tlo eyelet holes and tied with silk loops , The
hat worn with this Is a stunning shape ,
which savors strongly of Paris and the boule
vards , Is a braided strawllko felt , coming
over the face and rolling high In the back ,
The solo trimming U it huge whlto bird.
A handsome toilet for the promenade Is a
gown of foulard In solid color. The skirt Is
medium full , and Is trimmed with a deep
Spanish llounco , with a double beading , The
body Is of black plaited chiffon , with yokes
and bretullcs of silk. The sleeves are tight
fitting , almost to the shoulders , where they
aio very slightly bouffant , A lace rufilo
falU over tbo hands , a amall round hat
trimmed with full rucblr.sr uf chiffon , a bird
of paradise and fiowera under the brim In
tlio back completes the costume , A very
effective toilet Is of delaine , Tbo skirt la
tucked below the belt , coming to a point in
front and shorter at the sides and back.
It Is also trimmed on the bottom with a
series of llttlo tucks running around the
eklrt , with small squares at Intervals be
tween ; a pattern of embroidery Is appllqued
In each of the squares. The whole body con
sists of the little tucked squares , and ,
llkb the bklrt , has a little pattern of cm-
broldory In each square. The slecvo Is a
Bhlrrcd and ruffled affair , the top part of the
ruffle wider than the bottom , and forma an
epaulette which tapers off to nothing at tbo
wrist. Straight collar and belt of velvet.
The hat Is very much turned up on the sldo ,
trimmed with two feathers and a largo
square bow of black velvet.EMILY
EMILY HAZARD.
1ST MKJIOIIY OP MUS. STOXV1J.
Tribute to Hie Orcnt AVrllcr 111 Iii-
ilitrltiK Mnrlilr.
It was generally predicted shortly after
the death of Mrs. Harriet Beechcr Stowo that
there would soon , bo some Important me
morial Bculpture-of her and now that predic
tion Is In a measure fulflled. In the rotunda
of the state capital at Hartford , Conn. , the
old home of Mrs. Stowo during her last
years , there Is at present exhibited a model
flora of the troplM. ' Ono bountiful belt had
carved around ItTi Trprny of 'ho ' naypot vine
with bloflnonm and leaves , whllo the llttlo
purse to match cpriUlne.l on the fl.in a clus
ter of the flower * , buds nn.l tollae. An
elegant card < > i-as carvel In graceful
sprays of cactus 'Ttlossonis with a border of
Interlaced therms , A small sat'h > 1 , such as
my Isdy finds convenient on .1 short railway -
way trip or oven when driving down town ,
shows the long feathery plumes of thd pam
pas grass. As at , present these articles are
made only of leather carved In Mexico , they
r.ro still suPlclently "xpenslvo to have them
Included only among very stylish accessories
fur tl'f fashionable woman. The merchants
claim that before the season Is out come
American mamifaclnVor will Invent a ma
chine to do tho' carving and In that way
place Mexican carved leather within the
reach of these wtfmen who , though fond
of the unique and beautiful , are not bkescd
with exorbitantly long pocket books.
CIGARETTE HOLDERS.
The newest In cigarette holders are of
filagree silver. Strange as It may appear
to these women around whom st'll clings tlio
old-fashioned Idea that tobacco may only bo
used with propriety by the sterner > ex , these
tlatnttly designed and finished sllvnr aillclui
are Intended for women only. They beat *
slight resemblance to tbo old-fashioned sli
ver bouquet holders of two-scoro years ago.
They are of silver filagree so flue as to re-
Bcrnbto lace work , and of course each one
has an especial and a beautiful design. Throe
designs are all of them floral. II appears the
association of women and flowers still re
mained In the head of the designer , though
making a receptacle for the cultivation of
so mannish a habit.
THE LADIES' PIPE.
On the few pipes , which are also IntondeJ
for women , the' tracings of silver and gold
over the brlarwoo'd a d bowls arc not floral ,
but appear to fqllow itbe conventional Greek
and Roman designs. . The stems of those
dainty 'little ' pipes they arc aW small ar >
of'the clearest a'mtfer and soHb of 'them
quite long and curved. These "pipes for
ladles" are only to bo had In a few shops ,
and , strange to say , the merchants seem a
bit ashamed of keeping thorn. But there Is
no shame In the woman smoker who w'alks
up to the counter and calmly a ks to see
"ladles' pipes. "
OPERA GLASSES.
The very latest In opera glasses have
handles heavily carved , an'd somewhat
larger than last season. They are to be
MONUMENT TO MRS. STOWE.
had In solid gold and silver In all the new
colors and finishes , and In aluminum. Thq
special point of recommendation for the last-
named metal Is lightness alone , for It Is not
nearly BO pretty or handsome as silver , ant )
more expensive. Opera glasses of mother of
pearl and fine gll.t , It appears , have had
their day , as the merchants seem anxious
to be rid of them , and are offering them
at unheard-of low prices. Those of ordinary
black leather being high-priced , some of the
dealers claim that' the really etyllsh glass
for the comlngJaeasoit will bo leather cov
ered , and perhaps Wjtho expensive Mexican
carved leather. ; *
COLORED TATIONERY. i
The newest things In stationery and for
the writing topjp rare all highly colored.
Hyacinth , blueCjistlfiflower and rosy cerise
are the fashlonible I > colors for a stylish
woman's paper' qVifclopea and correspond
ence cards. Though. fhcse colors are BO vivid
as to savor of vulgarity , tbo texture of the
paper Is so iierfwct "aliil the shades BO beau
tiful as to leave inly tbo Impression of
elegance. Of cnlp ( black Ink only Is to bo
used ; colored lfa ] 3 are decidedly bad form ,
and on all thcsflunew , papers , even bluet , It
ehows up as perfectly as on white. Tbp
effect on the i 'rlsd. which Is the loveliest
of the rosy Bli ca. .la as pleasing as It Is
unusual. A blue JqHer , a pink letter , a
green letter or a yellow letter are almost
as usual as av hltoIptter , but when tbo
postman leaves' one ' &t rosy cerise we feel
Indeed as though It werd our red-letter day.
VENTILATED SHOES.
The latest shoo designed for the comfort
of womankind Is tba'Ventilated sort , so venti
lated as to produce r-ourrerit of fresh air In
the ihoo with every step of tbo wearer. This
U accomplished by means of a tiny metal
tube in the back of the heel , which Is hol
low. The air passes through the tube Into a
well formed by the hollow In the heel , thence
out to the solo , which has a hollow space
between the outer and Inner leather. The
Inner sole being perforated the air passes
Into the shoo , These shoes do not differ In
appearance from any other well-nude article
of the name quality. And now that they are
being made by several factories It Is claimed
they will become universal- ! ) popular and
prove a boon to women with tender feet.
COMBINATION FE.VTIIERS ,
The latest for hat trimmings Is a combina
tion of ostrich plumes with fancy feathers.
These are seen In all shades , and will be
much used. An elegant brown ostrich plume
had springing from Its center , completely
covering the stem , a succession of soft brown
quill feathers , resembling more than any
thing else the slightly curled feathers at the
base of a duck's tall. The effect Is pleasing
as well as novel. Feathers , It appnirn , will
bo used more than ever. Whole hats are
made of them , and not smal bats cither , but
big , broad-brimmed bats , the brim under
neath often being of a contrasting shade from
the top and crown. Then , too , felt brimmed ,
tani o' shantcrs will have crowns of feathers
so arranged as to resemble the breast ol
birds. These feather hat crowns mny bo had
In several different colors , dyed nnd In nut
ural colors of various fowls. Another new
trimming for winter millinery Is a ruche of
older dowfi and ostrich feathers. These nro
In all colors and make A soft , pretty trim
ming.
Jet Is among the very latest trimmings
for silk and velvet gowns. The Jet Jacket of
last season has gone out , and Its place Is
filled by the Jet blouse , or low-necked Jut
waists. Skirts will be trimmed with Jet
panels on the sides of various widths , while
the whole front breadth of many elegant
gowns will bo covered with Jet. This , It
would seem , Is to be a Jet season , for every
conceivable trimming for an elegant gown
Is to bo had In jet.
CO.YSUKI.o'fc M5W AMUITION. '
Tim YoutiK IliipliPHM Denlrcd to lie-
cover .MurlliiiroimU llouxc.
The duchess' Marlborough has a now
ambition. She alms , not only at restoring i
Blenheim to Its pristine splendor , but also
at restoring to her husband and his heirs the
London home which was theirs for many
generations. In other words , she has con
ceived the daring project of winning back
'Marlborough house from royal control , and
placing if once moro In the hands of the
Spencer Churchlllo. The magnitude of the
task to which she has bet herself may be
estimated' When- ono recollects that .Marl-
borough house lias become the recognized
town residence of the prince of Wales , and
that the heir apparent and his family have
conceived for It a great and lasting affec
tion.
tion.But wealth , tact and social Influence can
accomplish wonders , and stranger things
have happened than the abandonment of his
town house by a prince of Wales In favor of
a subject with reasonable claims to Its
possession.
Marlborough house was built by Sarah ,
the first and greatest duchess of Marlbor
ough , on the gardens of the old Friary. A
stipulation In the original lease was to the
effect that the Friary gardens should not be
built over. For this reason the gardens ,
although in London's very heart remain to
this day spacious and productive. Sarah of
Marlborough had quarreled bitterly with her
architect when the mansion was about to
bo built , and It Is confidently asserted that
this singular woman completed the plans
herself , and personally directed tholr carryIng -
Ing out. At any rate , Marllioroiigh house Is
ono of the moat admirably constructed
houses In London.
The Marlboroughs dwelled In Marlborough
house from the days of the great duchess
down to the first decade of the present
century , when the successive heavy losses of
the then duke and of his sou , Lord Bland-
ford , oused the family to part with it. In
order that Blenheim might be saved.
Hoyalty at once leased the house for Prince
Leopold , husband of the lll-Mtcd helrcsi of
Oeorgo JV. In 1S31 the queen dowager ,
Adelaide , went to live there , nd In 1863 thp
present qiiren assigned It lo the newly
married prince and princess of Waku as
tholr popular town establlihtnent. The
structure was much enlarges ! and Improved
on this occasion , so that , uhould Duchess
Consuclo succeed In regaining this lost gem
of the Marlborough coronet she will find 11
far more suitable to modern requirements
than It w when fortune the fickle caused
It to pass away from the house of Spencer
Churchill.
The chief authority for the rumor of the
duchess of Marlborough's Intentions In re
gard to tlio house Is a well known London
lawyer , whose nntno has long been n house
hold word for Ills skill and Ingenuity In
managing the most delicate affairs. Tt
would certainly seem natural enough tint
the latest successor of Sarah the Great should
do-lro to see HIP duke of Marlborough once
more seated In Marlborough house.
Koinliilnr
Hattlc M. lllchards of New York , while.
hunting In Maine" , shot a black hear said to
be the largest ever killed In that state.
Mrs. Gertrude Athcrton , who has been liv
ing In England for some time , Is going to
Ilouen , where she will complete her ntw
story.
The princess of Wales' favorite flower Is
the Illy of the valley , and the largest grower
'of these flowers In Great iBrltaln has his gar
dens near Saudrlngham.
The Baroness Burdett-Coutts has the ab
solute disposal of her property with the ex-
FASHIONS FOR LITTLE MEN.
In clay of Mrs. Stowe. designed for the
Harriet Bcecher Stowo Memorial association
of Connecticut by W. Clark Noble , the New-
York sculptor , which Is decidedly Interesting.
The statue , Including the pedestal , Is twelve
feet high and represents Mrs. Stowe seated ,
an attitude with certain peculiarities well
worked out quite characteristic and familiar
to these 'Who knew her In lite. Her figure
la robed after the Grecian conception of on-
nobllng drapery , and the head Is slightly
bowed , as one In deep thought. The face
expresses thought and deep consideration.
Kneeling at the side of the column that
supports the chief figure Is a suppliant con
ception ol Uncle Tom , stretching upward a
pair of brawny arms , from which hang broken
shackles. This figure Is not meant to rep
resent Uncle Tom so much , but rather the en
tire negro race , whoso gratitude to the gifted
author Is typified by the thankful attitude.
Both figures are to bo cast In bronze and
arranged according to the model , upon a
base and pedestal of granite.
The Harriet needier Stowo Mcmoibl Asso
ciation of Connecticut was formed over eight
months ago , and Includes the leading women
of the state , some of whom are related to
Mrs , Stowe. The object was to establish n
fund for a suitable memorial to bo erected
at Hartford. At the time It was given
out that the family of Mis. Stowo objected
to any statue being erected , hut this objec
tion was overcome , and a number of photo
graphs and other likenesses of Mrs , Stowe
were placed In tlio hands of Mr. Noble , who
began the work of modeling the figure early
In January of the present year. Ho chose
the middle period of the noted author's life ,
depleting her as she was In 1S70. Since
the completion of the design there has been
some discussion as to the advisability of
repretentliiK her an Mr. Noble has In hid
exhibited design or as she was when her
story was first published. Although no
change In the design Is at present con
templated. Mr. Noble went about the work
of gathering all photographs and likenesses
of her as slio was early In life , and from
these proposes to model a head In order to
secure the benefit of contrast , in. convincing
the doubters. Meanwhile , the statue will
remain on exhibition , the plan being to cast
It In the spring of 1SOS , after a suitable siU
for It has been selected.
Mr. Noble la a young New York sculptor ,
who has attained to considerable note
through several excellent pieces of sculpture
executed by him the best being , perhaps , his
bust of Phillips Brooks , the famous Amer
ican divine. He Is a graduate of Harvard.
and. although he has never studied abroad ,
ho has had the advantages which the schools
of Boston and New York afford , and has
managed to place himself In a very respected
position among his fellow-craftsraen.
As yet , no severe art criticism has been
applied to his latest work.
Tl I BTISHV liATKST.
of H > tr > - Kliul , Itntli Use
ful mill Oriiiiinrntnl.
The newest In small leather articles are
of carved Mexican leather. There are carl
cacea , pocket books , belts , small eatchc'.s ,
railroad passbooks and dozens of other con
veniences made of this elegant material. I :
color It Js a bright l-rown and ban various
designs carved on KB surface. The majority
of thcko designs are floral and taken fr.nn tbe
ceptlon of her share In Coutts' banking
house. This large slice of her fortune will
ultimately pass to her nephew , Mr. Money.
A few weeks ago , Elsa Eschelssohn was
appointed professor of civil law at the Uni- |
verslty of Upsala. She Is the first woman I
to receive an appointment as a university I
professor In Sweden. I
'
Molly Elliott Seawell , the young authoress ,
Is one of the most enthusiastic club women 1
of Washington. Most of the clubs to which '
she belongs have for their object the adI I
vancpment of literature and art. I
Miss Susan B. Anthony , wnen agreed re
cently to tell of her love affairs , said : "I
never had any 'Worth telling , for there was
not a bit of romance about any of my affairs.
I always said , like the old maid , that thu
man I wanted would not have me , and those
who wanted mo were so bad that the devil
himself would not have them. "
A decidedly unusual calling for a woman
Is practiced by Mrs. Ida Lachmuna of Clin
ton , la. , who spends her summers In towing
rafts of sawlogs on the Mississippi river.
She manages a steamer which tows a raft
of a million feet of logs 500 miles down
stream , and It Is rarely she loses n Urk.
.Mrs. Lachmund Is not a young woman , for
the eldest of her three sons Is a sophomore
at the University of Chicago , and the other
two are fitting themselves for college. She
Is a finely educated woman , an admirable
musician , paints well , and has the reputa
tion of being an excellent housekeeper.
Mrs. Adelaide E. Sherry , a young and
pretty widow of West Point , Ind , , runs ono
of the largest farmj In the state. She hires
and directs her largo crops of assistants , In
doors and out , entertains generously , driven
over the estate dally , buys pigs and calves ,
ships Percheron horses to Germany , cattle
and hogs to Chicago , cribs annually an
average of 10,000 bushels of corn , travels ex
tensively nnd writes for publications , She
h s iMcly returned from a sojourn In the
Holy l nd , nnd "after husking .lour. " she
.ironosce Investigating occult philosophy
among the Mahalmas In thrlr mountain
abodes In Imlli.
Miss Dorothea Klumpko Is one of the mom
talented of women aslrominiora. Five yours
ago she was admitted to thp l'nrl observa
tory , the only woman who had ever bi en a
pupil of It. Slip now has charge of the cast-
ern tower of that observatory , with a staff
of women ats'stants who nro under her man.
agemont. She Is equally talented In her ob
servations and In her mathematical wurk
Ollfla Johnsdottlr , president of tlio National
Woman's Christian Tomporinco union of Ice-
laud , as visiting t the Indian xchool at Car
lisle , 1'a. She was born In ltekjavlk. of
native parents. Fcr generations hen ancest
ors have boL n famous patriots , and luivo
figured conspicuously in tu < national strug
gles for ftccdom from DJiilsh rule. Her
parents died while Ollfla was young and her
training depended upon a maiden aunt and
bachelor inclo. : No two Individuals In the
country wield wider political power than do
Ollfla's relatives. The uncle Is speaker of
the lower house uf the national council , and
the aunt's voice Is often heard In public
githerlngs of every sort.
Miss llopo Temple Is the most popular
woman composer In the world. She was born
In Ireland , but of English parents. As n
girl she showed very remarkable musical
ability , and for sonio years she studied hard
In order to become a professional pianist.
Owing to a riding accident she had to glvo
up her ilrcitn , but nothing daunted , she
turned her thoughts to composition , publish
ing at the early ago of 17 "An Old Garden , "
which Immediately caught the taste of the
singing public. Miss IHopo Tompln. who has
now been for some two years Madame Andre
Messager , on ! ) works when she feels the
Inspiration. Her own favorite among her
songs Is " 'TIs All that I Can Say. "
Madame Cnnovas , the wife of the murdered
Spanish promler. Is at the present moment
the most Interesting widow In the world.
Her marriage to her distinguished husband
was quite a romance. He was himself of
very hiimblo origin , and she belonged to
ono of the ptomlest families , ln Spain , but
notwithstanding her youth tor shu was
thirty years younger than the great states-
nun she Insisted on marrying him , and
their union during the hist ton years proved
an Ideally happy ono. Madame Canovns ,
who Is a fine-looking brunette , never Intor-
feied with the political side of her husband's
life. She was mild to bo the best hostess
In Madrid , and by her tact and gracious
manner she conciliated many of the premier's
enemies. She now declares th.it she will
give up the whttlo of her future life to caring
for tlio Spanish poor , ami already steps have
been taken to secure her admission hit *
u branch of the Sisters of Charity.
I' < in In I lie Fashion * .
Fancy waists ore just as fashionable a
ever.
ever.New
New cloth rcdlngotcs are trimmed with
h.inds of embioldered velvet.
Cnoos'aro to bo fashionable whiter wrapi.
Tartans aie very much In vogue for thtaa
eaiments.
I'lfttdod and shot silk Russian 'blouses will
tn worn with Kmllsh tin-go skirts through
out the autumn season.
Dark , subdued 'colors ' will be used for the
streets , with no contrasts. Instead , different ,
shades of thu same color will tone Into ono
another.
The rough-surfaced cloths so much used of
late will give place to smooth , satln-finlslied
goods , such as poplins and cashmere , with
silks for home wear.
The bolero jacket will not have things .ill
Us own wav anv more , for an Important rival
has made HP appouanco'ln ' the Ku-slan coat ,
which Is In hl"h favor this fall.
Some of the eTy smart fur garments fir
the comlne itison have ft frilling of il li
lace arranged Inside of the collar , with ruf
fles to match at the edge of the flaring
sleeve-cuffs. ' i
The newest basque bodices are still short
and very dressy In oftoct , with odd , fancy
fronts Innumerable and Jaunty , lusqim or
position backs , the lower edges tabbed ,
slashed , vandykcd , or cut. III. circular bliapo
to suit various tastes and figures.
An Important capo of dark purple clo'ft
lined with gray squirrel skin had the collar
and rovers embroidered In black and gold
and edged with black fox. Some of thc-sa
capes are edged with a contrasting fur nnd
finished with a deep van IVKO ct.llar of
guipure lace.
The newest hair orn.imcntB Rr evening
wear are flexible. Single diamonds of viuiod
sizes are fastened at dlffor nt heignls en
vibrating unlrals of gol.I or silver , and -nesio
glisten llko so many dev .Irops among tlia
aigrettes with the slU'i'cat moveuuit of
the wearer.
Caues are made doublo-bnastcd with a
hlsh turn-over collar , and fuller In the back
than thosn with a1 hood. The fur capes < uo
to bo less full and longer Ilinn last season.
The seal canes , with their hlill ; Morni col
lars , faced with sable , ate lined with flowered
satin lining.
Amber shell combs studded with diamonds
and pearls will also bo much used for full
dross. The turquoise Is gaining In popu
larity every day , and Is worn In tbo h.ilr
and on the neck and 'arms , nr.tl so Ix the
American pearl , which Is extensively used
In the newest jewelry.
The deep rich "Cleopatra" colors will all
bo In marked fayor this autumn , thn tawny
golden browns , ru.sselH and the chaudron or
pinkish copper tints mixed with other dark
ilje.s ; alto many fruit and foliar ® slia.l'-a ;
and particularly the velvety reds and yel
lows of the wallflower and nasturtium.
Brandon , Miss. , March 27th , J897.
I am forty years old but my
menses had never teen regular.
Sometimes two or three weeks and
sometimes five. I was taken with
flooding last October. It continued
Thedford's Black-
until I got -
Draught and "Wine of Cardui.
These medicines have cured me. I
can recommend them to all suffer
ing women *
MARY E. BEAL.
nwruT , KY , Nov. IBHu rtA rvji.T.n , QA. , Jan'ySrfl.
Mr health 'JAS boon had several.vearH After using your mcdlctno nnd being
tmt lately I Iiaro taken Wlno of Card ill nud greatly boncQtted , I wrlto this to tell you
mack-Draught and bavo improved ever uud other * ( hat I think Wino of Cardui tbo
since. They dojustan recommcudcd. grandeat medicine over "
MAMIK
Some strong statements Jmve been printed about Wlno of Cnnlul. But the
rnort words of have been spolion by women who liavo tnlcim the
emphatic . . . . . _ . , , prsilso . . , . . . . .
! ! „ ! * h.T. I „ „ * „ * „ * * n stvtitiiBU flirt fVuilttllf ftl fl WfllltflllV11O II US
Wlno of Unriiui lias won us juacons ino Kru.m ; v jnu u < : iim nu " " < ; " , " " " "
to medical science , pnroly on Its murlts. Women who took It found that It nillevcd
thorn. Jinny of them Had tried doctors and other remedies. Jut they Buffered
on nnd on until they tried Wlno of Cardui. No wonder ; they say U Js the "crundj
cak uicdlclno over made , " or that It "will do more than it U recommended to do.
When therein the least Irregularity or menstrual disorder , Wluo of Cardui
should bo iiroctuodatonca. The trouble may _ _ _ _ _ _ *
seem to boa Jlttlothin } ; ntllrst but It will soon r J r rrT : . : . . -
undermine n woman's system. Wino of Car LADIES' ADVISORY DEPARTMENT.
dui will put the menstrual organs in tho. . „ . . - For adTlcu In catcs requiring tpo-
becomns well clal directions , ad < 1ri' , tfUlnjBf ) JIJP-
condition. Then
a womun soon toroi , lailtii' jlilvliurv JMiurtmtut ,
nnd strong. She Is fitted for any position in TlioCliutluaoixuMeUlcliieUo.
We. Ask y ur druciiist for Wine of Cardui. Cbnttanoof a , Term.
VI.00 1T.II JJOTTXE.