10 THE OMAITA DAILY BEfft/BITKDAY , SEPTMMKISK. . 12 , 1807.
1 IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
.
i 4 | * *
r\ius r.i.Minoxs roi
Lnlrnt ImiiitntliiiiN In Illiniii' " , Sltlrtu
mill IIntHI
PARIS. Aug. 20. The Idea * that liavo
weathered llio summer and can bo translated
Into heavy material * for fall , If few In num
ber , show a steady drift toward an extreme
style. The women look thinner and thinner ,
and the latest bulletin announces that It Is
the fashion to look tall as well. The
'bulletin recommends the adoption of sixteenth
century Italian stllu. This Is where wo are.
Hut If tlio Initiated nee tbu situation clearly
It la tnoro than thu world of ilress commis
sioners docs that at this tat ; end of the hot
M > aon Is clamoring at the doors of the rue
do In IMIx , asking for winter models. They
ask for novelties and they get a blouse and
A jjorcd skirt ; they want something to
startle their clients and they arc given a
nhorl Jacket and a wldo flounce. Clearly
it Isn't much , and the dress agents arc
eaylng , was It worjh while to como from
NEW DINNER GOWN.
Now York and from St. Petersburg for things
no newer than these ?
Hut look closely. These things are modi-
fled In special ways. This blouse Is a "blouse
Jacket" and .1 will bu one of the main
stays ot fashion when winter begins. It has
A llttlo bisque : It droops slightly over the
belt : It Is open In front over a plastron ; It
lias rcvors that may be cut in a thousand
different ways , and It Is principally by the
revefd that variety will be made. Another
form Is belted round the back and sides
and hangs full and straight from a yoke In
front. These blouse Jackets are raado In
velvet , end "they arc mo do In fur , as , say , In
inolro astraknn with rovers and collar facing
oD violet velvet. Jeweled belts will bo worn
with them ami * a Jeweled button or two m.iy
be. placed at discretion.
The skirt has something peculiar about
It ; there Is an overskirt. Let not the reader
KO astray over this news , for It does not
mean that ovcrsklrts nr * "all the. fashion , "
Jt means only that us skirts are loose from
the lining there Is no reason why they may
not bo cut up shorter In places and leave
the lining skirt , faced with pomcthlng else ,
to show for a contrast. It Is a simple way
to ornament thu skirt without adding any
thing on. I have seen ana at Worth's that
was cut up Irregularly across the front and
hung as long as the underskirt round the
.back. It was n combination of cloth above
and figured silk underneath. The bodlco
was a blouse of the silk with a fancifully
cut sleeveless bolero of the doth.
The ovcrsklrt Idea Is at this stage today :
whore it may be tomorrow the goddess ot
the model only knows. 'Ihere seems more
chance for Its development than when It was
obstinately tried two or three years ago.
At least with the narrower skirts it is no
longer nn Impossibility.
THK JACKKT PROPER.
Como now to the Jacket proper and the
flounce. The tailors liavo settled on a llttlo
fitted coat with five-inch barque , the backs
with English seams and an open and
rounded front. Its principal novelty Is n
plaited rulllo of silk set under the edge all
round the back anil up under the fronts ,
the edge of the rnnio coming to the edge
of the Jacket , like a skirt balayeuso. A new
skirt has tbn upper part fitted close and the
lower part. some two-thirds ot the whole ,
bias or slightly In goduts , sewed to It In a
plain flat feam llko a gusset. This Is hardly
n flounce , but It produces a slight 11 are on
the lowur i art , A model In navy blue serge
made with this Jacket and skirt has the
skirt trimmed from top to bottom with
black silk braid in llni's running round ,
curving slightly upwards towards the back
and in this following the direction of the
Pftlrf. Jolu , The Jacket has the lining and
under-plnltlngH of dark old rose.
Loose jackets are not abandoned , though
the prodigality with which they have been
exploited by the wholesale manufacturers
for the large shops has turned the research
ot the private houses In other directions. It
Is the law for all fashion. This Jacket is
used almost cxclUhUely by the best tallois
for bicycle costumes. For this wear It Is
iiiada rather long , about the length of a
man's round coat , this bolus found to bo the
most becoming length on the wheel. The
cblo Mulsh to this Jacket , for the bicycle or
t-lsowhere , Is n linen collar and a gentlo-
man's four-ln-haml tie.
In the mattei of material the taste for
plaits has brought out uomo silk and woo )
ntuffs , woven in plaits that are suited to
afternoon vlUling iliess. The dressmaker's
influence Is observable nlso In weaves of lace
Btrlpes alternating with tucked grenadine ,
and lu other needlework Imitations. As a
matter ofact tlieso novelty cloths arc not
Irslruble The moment that needlework
effecla arc made by machine and thrown on
the public market their doom Is sealed , for
the private dressmaking houses cease to use
them and so they go out of fashion. It Is
butter economy and better style to buy plain
material than fancy weaves , oven at a bar-
gain.
gain.Among
Among the cloths the rough flannel-like
surface called zlbellno will bu very much
worn. A costume Just made , In dark gray-
blue , has the skirt of zlbcllne , loose from the
lining , with tbreo overlapping tucks at the
bottom , and a blouse Jacket of velvet trim
med \\W\ \ bands running round of silk braid
In the same blue , and a collar of-fellver ( ox.
Tobacco brofrn Is another color that will be
much worn In cloth this autumn. It Hill bo
trlmniccl with black braid anil sable. An a
matter of novelty may bo cited a cloth Jacket
with the collar and rovers covered with ecru
burlap embroidered with colors.
TUB HATS OP THE DEMI SEASON.
When the s'do branches of a tree nro
lopped off the tree begins to push upward , In
analogous circumstances so docs a costume.
The gowns being narrowed the hats began
at onto to shoot up ; moreover they have
sprouted in an unexpected place , just uu a
plant might have done ; they have run up on
oiio sldo toward the 'back , at an angle of
Homo 130 degrees from the front.
Jt was a singularity exactly calculated to
tunueu the eye through languid weather , and
it baa fixed H lf ns a fashion for autumn.
Hut perhaps the reference to aplant Is not
adequate , for ono of the forma most In view
1 tort ot twisted plato In velvet , propped
up on on sldo with an underpinning of
colored crape roxettos , ami on the top of
this millinery sldo hill standi a lovely plume.
This Is a whola landscape. .
Anil these tipsy affairs In otUer d < iy suited
to the cafe concert stage , are being worn by
women of sedate manners and years ; and
they do not look rakish nt all , for they are
the fashion. Moreover , as soon nn the big
sleeves passed away the result was Inevit
able. 'Tho hat , ' ns M. Carller , the great
milliner , very Justly says , "must change
shape to preserve the unities. " The unities .
today require length. Even fat women arc I
slab-sided now. We are an the times are ,
and when our grandmothers believed that a
cap form , with strings , was the only head-
pear proper for age they made a. great mis
take.
"Cuban" straws , in sailor shape , trimmed
with black velvet and scarlet flowers , are
being very much worn. Otlior autumn hats
are trimmed with wheat. It Is a season for
feathers , Imt J do not believe that birds
will bo In favor. Among the first winter
hats Is a largo turban , with soft velvet brim ,
that seta flat on the head and Is trimmed
high toward the back with coquo's plumes.
Theater bonnets are a small Jet cap , with
bow of colored velvet ribbon , surrounded by
oBtrlch tips , placed slightly toward one side
the front.
The bicycle has risen to such Importance
that It requires special designers to Itself.
Your other hats cannot bo chlffonefl enough ,
but you must atccr clear ot chiffons tor the
bicycle bat. The conditions are not the
same at all. Your cycle bat must bo simple
In line aud have only one color. It should
bavo Just trimmings enough to mark direc
tion. By marking direction , I mean that It
flhonld cut the wind from front to back linn
be seen lu profile. A stiff feather pointed
'forward ' gives the effect of rapid movement ;
n plume floating backward shows the same
thing , but negatively and the effect Is Jess
gooJ , for It seems to drag. Tbls Is nearly the
whole philosophy of hlcyclo hats and the
woman that understands It can give points
to most-of thp milliners. SMahl
A recent creation for the bicycle Is a
brown beaver in sailor shape. scarf of
cream crepe Is pakscd loosely round the
crown and helb by a band of brown velfct
that Is drawn round tight through the mUst
of thi ! crepe and knotted at one slile , and In
the knot Is thrust aiv eagle's tea .her.
USKFUL KOH Till. TllAVIJIjKH.
CnuvpttlriivcN Hint. JnrrrnNt * the- Comfort -
fort of n .lourm-y.
Small bags of chamois , oblong In shape ,
with a narrow tape or ribbon attached at
cither end to pass about the neck , to hold
the banknotes or letter ot credit free from
rubs or dampness , arc no new thing for
those who Journey by land or sea. To these
have been added of late the daintiness of
llttlo linen covers , envelope shape , appro
priately ornamented with n spray ot small
flowers in outline embroidery , or a fitting
text. The design shows the shape ; a long
strip elf white linen or silk , folded over at
one end , which is rounded for an overlap.
The sides arc lightly joined by an overcast
stitch , leaving the lap to fall over the front.
The edge of this rounded piece Is finished by
buttonhole work , dona with white silk. In
short and long stitch. The spray ot forget-
me-not Is peculiarly suggestive , and Is done
In skeleton1 outline with blue silk , the center
being touched with yellow , the stems and
leaves green. The lettering may be In gold
or green , as one prefers. A tiny buttonhole
In the lower point of the lap admits a small
lace button to hold the contents secure.
Leave the pocket ample , so as to admit the
fulness required , It is hoped , for the roll of
bills , or the bulklness of the case of leather
always given with the letter of credit. This
llttlo vade mecum as a traveling companion
will save many nervous aearchings and
anxious forebodings , as it Is apt to be In
evidence even about the room , at the rest
ing places , when the diillnary pockctbook
or sldu pocket slips under s-hawls and behind
cushions in a most exasperating fashion , un
less ono Is ever on the alert. It makes a
nice llttlo remembrance to speed the traveler
on his way , and will not fail of appreciation.
Another gift of convenience for the
traveler Is a cover for the guide-book , made
of ecru grasscloth or linen , or of blue or
brown denim. The foreign guldo-bcoks are
of ono regulation sire , so that the cover
could bo easily changed from ono to the
other with the progress of the route from
country to country. The cover fits over the
bides the full width , outside and iu , so that
the book boards are slipped In , portfolio
fashion. Against the Inner lap is put an
extra piece of the material Joining the main
cover evenly at tbo end and side edges , and
open along tlio inside edge. The whole
thing Is neatly finished by a binding of silk
braid , black , dark brown or red. Divisions
are made In the Inside pocket pieces on one
side to admit cards and notes ; on the other
sldo the piece Is undivided , so as to take a
flat pad page or letter sheets. A small
division Is arranged on the proper side eSso
for a tiny p ° ncll. Tlio construction of this
cover Is simple , and works itself out in the
making. The divided flap may have the
register In tbo proper places : Cards , notes ,
worked with colored silk In very delicate
outline. The outside decoration may bo
the tourist's name , initial and Insignia of
travel , hat box , bag and umbrella , and for
a legend tbo very pertinent truth. "Wo
change our skies , but not ourselves. " in
these days of much travel the tourist who
feels that he docs not "know it all" some
time ! ; likes to hide the betraying color of
his guide-book from his next neighbor entrain
train or ship , so that ho may pass for onu
of thought and studious Intent , rather than
a follower of the great procession of sight
seers. In any case , the traveler nolcompi
a place of temporary keeping for the
uinmoranda , cards , notes , etc. , that are a
part of each day's record and gathering , and
ask for safe guarding until , In the pause ot
the Journey , they can bo sorted and stowed
away In the reserve of bag or trunk ,
T1IF. I.UiHT IvUKI'KHS' DAUCtl'I'l-.lt.
, \ Plucky YUIIIIK Woninii'H VInII on
Cll | M * Coil *
On the outmost end of Cape Cod there
lives , in the shadow of Highland light , a
bright and plucky young woman , who has
made for herself a unique place and woilc.
With her father , who Is the marine re
porter for tie ! Hoston Chamber of Commerce ,
Miss Lilian M. Small , a petite , attractive
brunette , spends all day long in the big
lighthouse watching through the telescope
the vessels that paes airing the great thor
oughfare of the ocean commerce by the capo ,
and telegraphing half-hourly the results of
her observations to Doston ,
"Through the large telescope with which
wo sight the vessels. " explained this In
teresting girl to a Boston Glebe reporter , "I
can read the names on the Hags and Bides
three to seven miles away. 1 have handled
the telescope daily slmce a child , and : ny
father , who has been at this station' forty
years , says that I can bo trusted to managd
the ofllce In all its work for clays together-
I learned the telegraph ( business when a
small girl , and for six years now I bavo
boon uiy father's assistant. "
Miss Small has had an unusually sensible
and a thorough education , and from the
years which were spent at school came a
polish and an ease ot manner astonishing
In ono who lives so much out of tlioworld. .
From the common schools of North Truro
she went to Dean academy , and after her
course there studied stenography and type
writing In ( Boston ,
Yet , in spite of her Jong school life in
the city , the lighthouse keeper's daughter
loved the sea , and was glad to go back to It ,
Now , a well developed young woman ot 20 ,
she rides a wheel , enjoys all sorts of athletic
sports , likes music and dancing , Is fond ot
horses , dogs and guns , and las a discriminating
taste In literature
ing , i
For the ever-changing scer.ery of the st >
she has a real poetic -
an - T7ca. One
thinks ot Cell * Thaxtrr and her lonely life
on the Isles of Shoals ag this attractive girl
tells of her days of watching from sunset
to sunrise , over cm the lookout and ever
alert for vessels passing by.
Sad are the scenes of shipwreck which she
has witnessed ; and the dispatches which she
sometimes tends over the wires are of tbo
most frorrcArful nature. Tliough Tniro has
unquestionably the most faUl coast in New
KngUuO , there 1 * iiotblug "rugged" or rock-
brmnd about the shore near highland light.
Krom this point for twelve miles toward
Provlncctown the beach Is of smooth , bard
sand , as fair to look upon when the weather
Is flno as a newly-cut lawn.
To all nppcpnrances It would seem that a
vessel caught In a northeast storm on the
ocean hereabouts would drive headlong upon
this beach with force sufficient to send her
ilgh and dry out of water. And this , Indeed ,
would bo the case wore. It not ( or the "bar , "
usually sufficiently ncsr the surface of the
water , even at high tide , to catch the keel
ot any craft.
Hereabout Is the region 01 shipwrecks ami
marine tragedies. As many as eighteen ves
sels have been wrecked In a single night
ipon bars near the Highland light , and there
Is not a mile of the shore that has not Its
ghostly record of the loss within its limits
of nilIp anil treasure and human lives.
Through the telescope , however. Miss
Small and her .father can see a ship in dis
tress and by telephone communicate with
the nearest of tbo many llfo-savlng stations
along Cape Cod.
"Dangcrfioia" was the name by which
ancient Truro was originally called , and it
was an apt appellation. Yet , dangerous as
Is the whole district , that part known as
Peaked Hill bar Is , perhaps , mogt of all
dreadful. Even to Miss Small , with her
steady nerve and her largo experience , last
year's tragedy In Peaked Hill bars causes , In
the telling , deep distress and shuddering
horror.
The story Is too awful to elaborate , but
In outline it Is the captain and his mate
on an Italian ship , who , In grief and des
peration at the loss of their vessel and terror
Df the sea which threatened them , rushed
Into their cabin and shot themselves dead
with their revolvers.
The Somerset , British man-of-war , was
wrecked upon this beach in 177S , while the
war ot the revolution was In progress , and
her crew of 4SO men were taken prisoners
and sent to Boston.
In ono gale , In October , 1811. fifty-seven
young men of the town were lost at sea and
very early In the history of this country ,
RECEPTION TOILET.
In 1718 , the pirate ship Wihdah , was wrecked
on the coast and 130 men of her company
were drowned.
On the bluff HO feet above tbo sea , In
the llttlo house near thu light , lives the
family to whom the wrecks of long ago are
lost In the wrecks of now. Persistent cheer
fulness , too , succeeds In somewhat Ignoring
the horror of it all. The work of the cel
ebrated station is a glorious one , and the
man who for forty years has been watching
the tea Is helped and comforted by the bright
face and buoyant young life of the girl who
lias made bis work hers and does it gladly
and well.
CONCF.HMM ; SLEEP.
lll'I'OIIlllH'lllll'll IIH II ClOOll Tlll to
Try Wlirn Oiiu IH Tlrvil.
"The older I grow , " vald Mr. Wlngleby ,
"tho moro impressed I am by tbo Impor
tance of sleep. Perhaps I need more my-
tclf as I grow older ; 1 don't know about
that , but I am more and more certain that
ample sleep Is essential to the largest meas
ure of health , happiness and success.
"We should start in the morning with our
reservoirs of courage aud cheerfulness filled.
Tb y will bo drawn upon all day long , and
they can't lx > drawn upon and stay filled , too ,
We go home st night pretty will played
out : with our stock of courage aud cheerful-
ness pretty wejlilfflwii down ; clean down to
the copper , mnybiniln both tanks. Hut sleep
Is n sprln ; whweH"ntle stream will fill these
reservoirs up flffliipn
"Only give lf.nrjdnnce , , , H runs only Jnst
so fast. Don't tnUioft going to bed till the
last fag end of no time , anil then get tip In
the morning nttrr.o , scant night's sleep still
tired and unreffcjlicd , a storage battery only
partly filled ; really needing about all the
fuel you can carry to get through the day
with , but start\tiRyicvcrthcless \ , , with about
A half supply , no that you have to consume
more or less nfyo'urself | to get through.
"Are you tlro l ? > 'Try sleep ; there's nothing
llko It , A goqd dinner ' , or at least a hearty
dinner ; and , It y'mj smoke , not too much
tobacco nftcr 'it ; that makes some people
wakeful , Andilthep to bed early. Fill up
your tanks full ; H won't do any hurt If they
overflow ; and got up In the morning feeling
llko a swashbuckler on the face ot the earth-
ready to tackle anything that comes nlong. "
TWO WO.MISX FAIIMUIIS.
Tlit * } * An * CnllfornlitiiN nml Onn n
I'Vtv Auri-n.
A California woman has demonstrated to
the world that It Is possible for ono of bcr
sex to manage a ranch successfully. Three
years ago , by the , death of her husband ,
(
Ilosmcr P. McKoon , thp celebrated lawyer
( whoso connection with the .Blytho case
made his name familiar to everyoneMrs. .
Fannie M. McKoou was left in possession of
the Fatlma rancho , a piece of property of
10,000 acres , fifteen miles from San Diego ,
Cat. The fact that she hail never bad any
previous business training , and that her
whole life since her school days had been
spent entirely In filling home and social du
ties , did not in the least deter her from as
suming control ot the ranch. She has never
given up the management of It , and It is now-
one ot the most successful tangos In the
country , with several hundred acres of or
chard near the home place , ami from COO to
1.000 head of cattle and horses on It all the
time.
Just before Sir. McKoon's death a heavy
mortgage was plced on it to save other
property and Mrs. McKoon has made tht !
place yield a stilllcfent Income to keep up her
splendid establishment , pay tha Interest on
tlio mortgage and a good Interest on the
original Investment , although she says she
can at least double the Income If some cap
italist will take hold with her.
When asked how she acquired her knowl
edge , she said : "I had no choice. I was
obliged to do It. Anyone else In my position
would have done the same ! "
Airs. Mary Shepard of San .Buena . Ventura ,
Cal , , has gained a reputation ad a floricultur
ist. In the beautiful town where she resides
she owns a ranch ot flowers. There are 1,000
acres altogether blooming , fragrant acres of
many hired flowers. Mrs. Shepard and her
employes carefully tend them for the pur
pose of collecting and then selling the eccds.
The palms , of which she makoi a specialty ,
are noted for their great height. Her hello-
trope Is also famous for Its sfce , exquisite
color and wonderful fragrance.
The business of collecting the seeds and
then disposing of them at profitable prlcca Is
no simple matter. Mrs. Shepard has to have
a small army of servants , and yet the ha-rt-
est part of the work falls to herself. After
yeais of labor she now has a large- and re
munerative busneas. and her flower eeds
are sold all over the United States. It Is
said that the moment she HOBS a flower gar
den she can tell at a glance whether the
( lowers have been ; ; rown from her aceds.
Mrs. Shepard In no way looka llko a progres-
ttl\o business woman. She Is a midlo-agcd
person of modest , retiring manners , with a
pleasant , kindly face , and an unusually
sweet voice. Shi\ has passionately lo\od
flowers ever since the days when she was a
wee tot of a girl. Mrs. Shepnrd always
wears a flower somewhere about her cos
tume.
KAIH COLOMSliS I.V TWO STATUS.
MlNNourl KolKmx IIu * ininpliol
TemifNNci * .
Much has buth 'Britten and not a little
printed regarding , ( jle appointment of Miss
Nclllo Kly as njiHpber ° ' * ! lc olllclal slafl
of Tennessee's governor. "Colonel" Kly was
declared to bo' > ! th3 'first young woman win :
had oven been J oiipjeil in that way. Sucli
Is not the fact. . tltsourl lias a daughter \vlic
is not only a < JtlMcommissioned | olllcer nn
the staff of tlu..oconituandant of ono of the
state guard regiments , but her commlssloi
as captain antujftej that of Miss Kly. Do
tides , she Is aUoii ommUsloued with tin
same rank In K mtucky , which U her hoau
at present , Thei Missouri ofilcor Is Mamlt
Telford Combsi.and she was born and irare ,
In the northern.vart : of the state. Her fain
lly unites that of the Telfords and the Combs
both well known In Kentucky and in Mis
sourl , and she -Hstu granddaughter of Genera
Combs , well kllbvvn In Kentucky history
She is a tall , gKSc ful blonde , of fine figure
and superb enf luge , and In a uniform o
dak blue the attracts attention wherever BK !
Is seen.
Miss Combs , though she lives la Lexington ,
Ky. , spends much of her time , especially In
the summer , with her B.'ster , Mrs. T. H.
Hudbon , In Carrollton , 'Mo. She waj visiting
there last summer when the Fourth regi
ment of Missouri National guards encamped
there. In company with her sister rrid sev
eral visiting girls from both Missouri and
other states , Miss Combs was in camp ovcry
day. She took much Interest In military
affairs and was soon the friend of almost
every officer In camp. Had she been a resi
dent at that time of this fctate she would
have been chosen daughter of I ho regiment ,
but there was R sentiment amccig the men
that only a iMlssourl girl should have that
honor. 'Miss Combs , however , was named
by Colonel Cot by a menVber of his staff ,
with the rank of captain , and after the camp
was broken she uaa duly commissioned by
Adjutant General < Bcll , Upon her return to
her home In Lexington last fall tbo story of
k r liouor * t the bandd of il.ssourl was
told , Not to bo outdone In honoring Its own
daughter , though only nn adopted ono. Ken-
lucky conferred the name title n her and
she now has a commission as captain from
that state also.
The Fourth regiment of Missouri en
camped this year at iMoberly , and IBI com-
puny with Mre. Oorby. "Captain" Combs
was the gutst of honor. No function , mili
tary or social , was complete without her.
and she shared with Colonel Corby the
glorlcn and the honors of the occasion. She
Is very proud of her commissions and de
lights to exact the required salute from all
who approach her.
sun Kti.ini ) A iti\n.
Kvplnlt of it * > York AVoiunii III
.Mil I no.
A Now York girl killed one ot the big
gest bears ever slain In the Dead River re
gion of Maine. This daring sportswoman Is
Miss Hattlo M. Richards , the daughter of n
Grand street dry goods merchant.
Her ndventure occurred last Tuesday , but ,
as she Is still In Maine's deep woods hunting
and fishing , it was left to n close friend of
the family to toll of IU lie gave the facts
Upon receipt of a long letter from Miss Rich
ards describing her remarkable acblcvemcnt ,
Mn Richards left New York recently with
his family to spend six weeks In ht.i hand
some ctmp at Chain of Ponds , on the Megan-
tic fish and game preserves , which consist of
250 square miles of the choicest hunting
grounds In Maine.
Miss Richards carried a rifle tint had been
made expressly for her. Sbe Is familiar
with the USD ot firearms , and has often
brought down deer , but this was the first
time she had had a chance to tackle a bear.
\
V " S V *
C . . * - .
EARLY AUTUMN STREET SUITS.
Suddenly there was a loud cracking of the
underbrush , and looking In that direction she
saw a huge black bear coming toward her.
Bruin trotted along in blissful Ignorance
of the presence of the young woman with
.lifio raised waiting for him. When he had
i approached to within -00 feet of her she
] llre.d. The bullet struck the bear in the
' neck and made a bad wound , which canned
thu animal to grow very savage. It made a
, rush for the girl , but when it was about
seventy feet away Miss Richards' rifle
' cracked again , and the bullet hit the bear
' behind the ear and killed it.
1 The bear was an old fellow and weighed
I moro than 400 pounds. Guides said It was
! the largest killed In the Dead River region
i in years. The head and skin are on the
way to a New York taxidermist , and when
I mounted will bo sent back to Maine to
1 adorn the floor of the Richards camp , which
i is called camp Rustic
I As a sportswoman Miss Richards'has few
I equals. She Is 23 years old , of athletic
. build , and spends her summers In the woods
with rifle nnd rod. Tlio mpmbcrs of th
family arc foml of outdoor life. Their homo
Is filled with trophies of the hunt , and they
have a fine collection of firearms.
Krntliiliip KiiNliloni ,
The bolero and Eton effects In Jot BO popular -
lar lH t season will be replaced by Jrt
blouses or low-necked Jacket effects.
Odd effects , combining features ot n fnncy
short-skilled Jacket-bodice and n slashed
bolero appear upon the newest gowns for
autumn wear.
Sleeves will not rcnch perfect tightness nt
loasl during the winter. There will bo some
thing nt the top of the slcevcj In the shape
of caps or other trimming.
The plain gown will bt > scon only In the
close-fitting garments ; all other gowns will
bo elaborately trimmed on the skirls , and
there are strong suggestions of the double
or oversklrt.
The oversklrt continues to put In claims
for favor this season , and models pointed
In effect nnd quite ns IOIIR as the underskirt
before they nro draped nppoar among ap
proved fashions for the fall and winter.
A pretty brown and whlto check Is made-up
with a panel of guipure lace over brown
satin , with triple rows of brown velvet on
each , edge , anil the same llireo rows of vel
vet about the pouch bodice , while about the
waist Is a bias belt of brown velvet.
The slashed models , giving the effect of
* long square apron front , reach quite to the
bottom of the second skirt , and on tailor cos
tumes ot cloth , mohair , tweed , cheviot , etc. ,
the slashed edges are decorated wltb. silk
gimps put on In various fanciful designs.
The new dress trimmings for the coming
season arc gorgeous In color nnd design. Jot
will bo used on both skirts and waists , but
on silks and velvets exclusively , white for
handsome cloth gowns braids , both silk and
wool , will be extensively employed ,
The newest furnishings for writing tables
for women are of leather. And , by the way ,
writing tables will bu more fashionable next
season than desks , They are spindle-logged ,
of course , and are enamelled or "made of
wood that matches or harmonizes with the
other furniture.
' The "damask" silks ot n generation ago reappear -
appear under the name of Lyons brocatelles.
'Stripes of black satin gtvu a rich tone to
these brilliant fabrics. Much violet , green ,
red and palo gold nro blended In elegant
l > e&u do soti ; textiles , with a dcml-lustro and
a twilled surface.
On Krench oversklrtcd gowns , some have
very long sharp shawl points trimmed with
triple frills , sometimes wide , sometimes very
narrow On such gowns tbe underskirt Is
tilmmcd to match , but the greater portion or
the underskirts are finished with a deep
machine-stitched hem.
The gloves for next season are the suedes
or soft-finished leather ones. For street
wear they are pique , stitched , and the most
stylish have but one button or clasp. These ,
of course , are to be worn with tailor-made
gowns and should match the suit. Gloves of
a contrasting color nro no longer regarded
as In good taste.
Evening gloves are made longer than usual ,
some of them measuring more than ono yard
and a half from the finger tips to the tops.
They will be worn more wrinkled than for
merly and for that reason the arms are made
somewhat larger , but not so tapering. Voi
evening as well as ttrect wear the style will
be for harmony rather than contrasts , nnd
all lengths ot suedes are to be had. ns well
as every conceivable shade. Some few ate
lace trimmed , others daintily embroidered ,
but the majority have plain machine stitch
ing In silk to match tno color of the glove
or Just one shade darker.
The braid sets used on cloth gowns are as
elaborate and often quite ns expensive as
these of Jot and jewels. The blouses , which
are cither low or high necked , arc of braid
woven back and fo.th so as to show the
goods beneath. In some patterns the little
squares and diamonds thus formed arc flllcd
In and further ornamented by wheels or
other simple patterns work-cd in filll ; to
match the braid. The effect Is very Ilku
Mexican drawn work. The skirts ot these
gowns nre to be trimmed with panels of
braid In the same pattern , tapering from the
foot of the skirt to the waist line , or with
row after row ot braid ot tbe same width.
On some of the more elaborately trimmed
cloth gowns there will be , so the lalloru
say , more than 200 yards of braid used.
The beautiful material called gros di > Tc'irs
will form one of the fashionable silks for
dressy autumn gowns , the fabric having a
soft-finished corded surface , .slightly heavier
than taffeta , but much lets glossy. It will
be used In exquisite tints of rose , Parma
violet , Nile green , cream , cameo pink and
fOTget-me-not blue , for evenlne toilets ; ami
In very handsome shades of gray , fawn , doe
and biscuit color , brown , green and also In
black for church and calling costumes , etc.
Some of tbe figured patterns arc striped wltii
satin , In bronze , black or green , tUen bio-
caJc.il with small quaint olil-fosliloned de
signs.
For formal occasions and for wear with
silk , satin and velvet gowns , suede gloves
only will IIP permissible , though they are so
thin and e.f such a delicate finish as closely
to resemble the bent quality ot glace kid.
lcarl , white , yellow , biscuit and mole colors
will pass as in the best taste. The stitchIng -
Ing on the majority of the gloves of these
dellcato tints Is only a shade darker. The
merchants assert that the best class of cus
tomers never wear gloves which make their
hands conspicuous , yet they show some Im
ported novelties in black suedes cmbioid-
tred on the back in bright cut Jet. The
patterns nre tiny vines , with blossoms and
leaves The effect li novel and may take
with the New York women when they learn
of their popularity lu Paris. Other Parisian
gloves are In soft grays and mole * olor nnfl
nro Rtltchcd on tbo back with steel < \ml In-
descent brails , They arc to bo worn wlUi
elegant gowns nn formal Oceanians.
IVniliiliiiNoli - * ,
Queen Adolalde , widow of Dom MUonl.
king of Protucal , tins takm the vows at th
convent of the Uencdlctlnrs at Solcmcs ,
Fr ncc.
Miss Helen Wilder , ono of the mo t ail-
mired young women In society In Honolulu ,
has received a commission ns a humnci
olllccr from the attorney general.
IIu King Eng , n young Chinese woman
who studied medicine In this country , taking
the degree of M. 1) , Is now In charge of the
SUn-llit hospital nt Foo-Ctiow.
Mrs. Carrie Rapp of Rockford , 111. , Li the
second Rockford woman to psfs a success
ful examination tat Ottawa nnd bo admitted
as n member ot the Wlnnebngo county bar.
Mrs Fannie V. Iverson of Atlanta who was
reported engaged to bo married to ex-Senator
Jlavlil II. Hill ot New York , several monttu
ago , has been married to Charles Abbott of
Washington ,
Mrs. S. a. Mllllkr * of Augusta , Mo. who
was elected a director at a recfnt meeting ot
the stockholders of the Danger , Orono &
Oldtown Railroad company , is the first woman
ctcctod to such place In tht state ,
Mrs. Nancy Julian of Warsaw , Ind , , has
Just received a paw to New York over the
Pennsylvania railroad. The pan was Riven
because Mrs. Julian was the first woman ,
to travel on a railroad west of the Alle
gheny mountains , *
Mrs. Emma Colman Hamilton In the owner
of a largo coal and wood yard In Dunkirk ,
N. Y. Shu nlso sells drain plpo , fire brick ,
tiles , cement , etc. She has a trusty man la
LITTLE GIRL'S PARTY FROCIC
her office , but oversees her books and the
business generally herself.
It has often boon stateil that the grave of
Jenny Llml the "Swedish Nightingale , " has
been neglected nnd Is not even marked by a
slab. This Is not true. A handsome cress
marks her last resting place on Malvern hills ,
in England.
The [ laughters of Harriet Ileecher Stowo
say In a letter to the Hartford Courant : "Wo
are happy to bu able to state to those kindly
intuiestcd that wo are , and wo hope we shall
always he , far from needing assistance ,
either public or private. "
The University of Illinois has decided , after
bitter fight , to open the Chicago College of
Physicians and 'Surgeons to wtmien. It ap-
I pears that thin gain to women Is the icsult
of the determined effort of Miss Hannah L.
Hukill to obtain admission.
Mrs. Oliver II. P. llelmont is salil to
value her famous Marble House at Newport
at Jl.000,000. Silo recently refused an offer
from Potter Palmer for It npprovlmati g
that sum. It Is assessed at ? SOO,000. Cor
nelius Vanderbllt's The Hreakers Is assessed
at $338,000.
There Is an old lady living In Guernsey
"Who claims to be the queen's oldest subject.
Sno Is Mrs. Mnrgcret Neve , and although she
declares herself to bo 105 years of age sh
is still bright and vivacious , walks to church
j every Sunday and Is very fond of telling ot
tlio famous people she has been during hsr
life.
life.A
A woman having passed an examination In
veterinary surgery In England , the Royal
College of Veterinary Surgeons refuses to
grant her a certificate until the courts havu
decided that it Is legal for women to be horsii
doctors. She is a Scotch woman and a grail-
uato or it Scotch college.
| Mrs. Annie Hullcn , aged 97 , living at IJnb-
; IIu , wrote to the questi congratulating her
; upon her diamond Jubilee , stating that Bho
I remembered seeing the Jnblleo of George
III. Queen Victoria took pains to hnvo a rn-
ply sent as follows : "Tho private secretary
is commanded by the queen to thank Mrs.
A. liullcn for her kind letter. "
Ono of the department presidents of the
Woman's Relief Corps who lias most reason
for pride over the showing of the corps at
the national convention In Uuffalo , was Mrs.
Emma F Cicsslngcr of Ohio. Mrs. Ctessln-
gcr , whose honip Is at Ashland , presides pv < > rene
ono of the most successful corps in the Union.
MARSHALL , TEXAS , March 22nd , 1897.
I , like many others , have been cured by McElree's Wine of Cardui.
It is a great medicine to bring health
and happiness to weak women. I am S LADIES' ADVISOHY DEPARTMENT.
Kor wjvlco In cases requiring .
HJHI.
manager of the girls' home here , and ctrUdlri'illon : , nihliceB.Blvlncnyliil'- '
toms , Jn/i/j' / Irtrtaorv Jtiirttnent ,
recommend Wine of Cardui to them. . The ChiittiiniHtffii ACodlclneCo.
C OtinUtuiooKn , Tmin.
MRS. MARTHA BURNS.
STINNKTT , Anderson Co. , Ky. ,
March 22nd. 1897.
I want to tell yon how much Wine
of Cardui has relieved me. Six
months ago I was taken down in my
bed with female trouble. I suffered
fearfully but I thank God I finally heard
of Wine of Cardui. I have taken
that with Thedford's Black-Draught
and am entirely relieved. I know I
would have died if it had not been
for these medicines. I am trying to
get all the women in my neighborhood
to take them.
MRS. MAMIE BURGAN.
More testimonials than would fill this paper could be printed telling
what Wine of Cardui has done. From every part of the country letters
come , saying : "Wine of Cardui cured me" . Some say they were sick
two years , some five , ten and even twenty years. Some women forty
years old say they never had a painless menstrual period until they look
Wine of Cardui. The worst cases of flooding , whites , suppression , fall
ing of the womb , irregular and painful periods , barrenness arc reported
cured. Women arc brought through pregnancy and change of life with
out suffering. Why not take the testimony of these earnest women and
try Wine of Cardui. Nearly every druggist in the country sells and
recommends it. $1.00 per bottle.
