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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 5, 1897)
10 THE OMAHA DAILY HJDEt'iSUNDAY , SEPTEMBER 5. 1807. Q I IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. ft jra I I SHI'THMIJUIl iN .Snllnlilc for tinKvonl of n l.lfi-tlmr. NEW , YORK , Sept. 2. June Is the month par' excellence for brides , but September reaiw Its harvcnt of the ripened summer . fllrlatlon.i , and every autumn furnishes Its I own percentage. The dcml-scaeon'a bride has not the same uncertainties to face In fashion ! ) ns the unattached or safely an chored woman on the sea of matrimony , who have naught to dowith the bride's finery. Ivory .white satin la above all the gowns for the wedding , and the richer and heavier the quality the happier the bride , If brides have time to think ot such mate rial aids to happiness. Satin Is also the only fit background for the family heirlooms of Ancient , llliny cobwebs which arc reverently produced for the all-Important event In the drama of llfo. The girl -who wears her grand mother's llouncta and vclla Is an object ot envy to any or all of her brldramalds who have not yet attained the dignity of the three-generation , badge of gentility , nnd oho makes the mental reservation that her own granddaughter shall enjoy the preallgo ot that happy ultimatum. nut all this grandeur , white satin and real lace , diamonds for Its netting , the church In town , and all the sumptuous par aphernalia go to makci up a smart wedding , with a Fifth Avonnoenvironment , nut for the country house wedding In September , white satin U a trifle too grand for "every " day folka. Olrls who have an eye to flt- nesj prefer to carry with them the sweet refrain of summer flirtations , nnd Bomc- thlng like the reproduced memories of the gowns lhat graced those halcyon days. A very consoling reflection also for the mnd ( who cannot afford whlto eatln magnifi cence Is that In 1'arls. the recognized foun tain head of good taste , the brides of the ' t'1 il : ; t I il * " RUI ) CHECKED DELAINE. nw > ilc ; , artisans , etc. . Insist always upon T , the satin gown .for the wedding day , but the gpitcral public is probably not aware of the means taken to BO- euro these at prices befitting their Bllm pursts. The Temple Is their Mecca , nnd very many people Know that the Temple la the wholesale "old clo' " shop of Paris. Everything winds up there , and nearly all the gowns have passed through n half-dozen or more phases , some In very fair condi tion , after a series of vicissitudes dlscourag- 'ing to think of at the time of their creation In o mvell shop on the Run ilr la I'alx. und Its llrst , last and all-Important appearances Ks'atho piece ile resistance of thu wedding day. The satin gowns at the Temple do liot by any means belong to the class of con fections above alluded to. but something can hlwayt ) he found thei-o for a Kong to lit the needs of the brides-elect. An edifying spectacle to the Americans abroad are these newly married ones arrayed In the bravery ot white satin , orange blossoms , tulle veils , white satin slippers , and all the dainty de tails of wedding Hurry , bubbling over with h'rfpplncss , and quietly awaiting their turn to rldo on the elephant. The tourist who visited the zoo ostensibly to look at the animals quite forgot the object of hie visit In frank astonishment nnd entertain ment at the unwonted spectacle of no les:1 : than eleven brides and their attendants , nnd necessary grooms also , In full dress regalia. all'-'dlsportliiB themselves In this childlike fashion. To the stranger all this gorgeousness - ness , If edifying , teemed a trifle out of plaio ; , but upon Inquiry the youngoat nnd prpttrnt ( bride affably vouchsafed thn In- tiiVniatlon that for one day , ut least , In their lives , their whole ambition was to bo R ' "lady. " White satin and the disregard ol consequences to this sumptuous raiment I * their definition of this enviable slate. SIMPLER 'MATERIALS. A tKiInt In favor of simpler materials , organ dies , moussellnes and sweet , old-foahloned riwlM , trimmed with n-ul valouclences , la the fact , very much advertised at the- time , that the wedding gown of the present duchcfH of Westminster cost only 7B cents per yard. " Orgamllen , ranging from G3 cents to M In price , apropos of Madame la Duchcds , over taffeta silk llpa. make faHclnatlng wedding uu'dv'brldc malds' gowns , which rank second to none In effect , and will maltc even a plain brldf pretty on her wedding day. OUR for a Seyfcniber bride la over white taffeta , with tit-op Spanish flounce and pulling of the 2.11110 at'-the tou , A bunch ot orange hlorsoms tloil with white satin ilhbon IH the only other trimming at the top of flounce on the left , Hli < li neck and long s-leevcs are always de rigour , tulle veil and orange blo.-aoms and a Ktjl6)ire ) ot real lace Is desirable , but not niX.'fksary. The train should bo dispensed with unlctM made of heavy material. The bride may carry a bouquet of her favorite < flowao , Tv/o bridesmaids and dearest friends of comae arc enough for a home wedding , where crowding should bo discouraged. Organdies are Etlll In favor for thn maid of honor , who CTUCM a bow'tchlng ruffle and frivolous skirt , trimmed with rows of yellow pencil velvet over a yellow , while taffeta slips , c\ttlu xllp- pers and flowers are the dainty arcrcAorlcri which go to make up a complete costume. The second bridesmaid wears her organdies mada In simpler fashion , over a coni-llowrr liltiB slip. Sucdc gloves are always in order , an the claco kid hive a wintry air about them. A pretty sash'of mplr < > taffeta of ribbon la match Iho silk underskirt , or made of organ- dl < > . , tucki > d ami trimmed with narrow lice edging and Insertion , Is a nmst attractive fin ish to the dainty gown , A pretty detail of thn country wedding at Lenox la the dance nn the lawn , after the wedding breakfast , and thu Virginia reel , best adapted for dljplay- \ Ing the gratea and gowns of the fair iiartlcl- ti.inlB. Tim briilo'ri traveling gown I * of navy Ulllti EnglUh erfe-p. Her sUrl U barely four yards wide , and roiisUts of regular bias lurkn alincat to the wulil , and In goad seai-ona It la just as well to ttdit that It takce nn artist tn make a skirt of this kind , as the defective ktlu-hlng In u tliiRH- tuck fo qultH uuIUcltnt i to upoll the whole eklrt. The bodlco , which vU especially becoming , la made with a little tcen'rl6 ! basque , with H wlJo velvet belt ; /was / th ° C3 over a front of embroidered tulle. ' mid Bister - with triple ruveru , The collar Funeral Mou effect In large turnover tucks. I "IT * III' ' SCS/iSK 'HJI " < "I" arm and with a very Might fulness nt the Bhoulder. The lower half Is embroidered , tight at the wrist , and extra long. The hat U a little round affair of felt , trimmed with ono largo puff Y ottoman silk , which cov ers the crown as well as the brim , leav ing only the little corded edges of the felt vIslliliA In front toward the left eldo are thrco black prince of Walts feathers , two curving over the crown and ono down over the brim. These arc fastened with a aquaro rhlncatono buckle. 1JOWS IN FRONT. The huge ribbon bows of last season which were worn at the back of the neck and only censed growing when wlng-llko proportions tions had been reached have been replaced this year by equally huge cravats of lace , muslin or chiffon a pretty framing for a demure face , and It la almost universally becoming , lean and fat alike , rejoicing In Its softening tendencies. At a garden party recently given the English ambassador some of the most ct- fectlvo combinations seen were of change able taffeta , with mirror velvet collar and belt. A pinkish white moire , with velvet bodlco the same tint , arid black embroidered gauze over transparent clol blue. Tor yachttnen's balls and the wlndup gen erally of the summer eeauon It docs not matter cu much what the materials of the gown no long as It Is white , with some one distinguishing feature to glvo It character. Whlto molro , for Instance , trimmed with ecru. lAnd the whole category of white muslins , with belts of tulle , salmon , citron , mandarin , etc. The fichu In all Its varieties continues popular despite the fact that precious few women know how to wear It. U la a com- po.ilto accessory to a toilet , equally suited to extreme youth , dlgnltled ago and all the frivolous and sedate stages between. The solo distinction Is In the adjustment and the artistic taste of the wearer Is at once evinced. So , don't wsnr one , girls , unle&s you perfectly understand Its possibilities , for donned In Ignorance , It will stralght- \vay add ten years to the unsuspecting and innocent victim. Though red In all Its pheses has been with us since the spring and through the cummer , Its proper season Is only Just ar riving. It is a distinctly "tally" color , and It only seasonable when the leaves begin to turn , and a certain degree of warmth Is necessary In color , If not In texture. A handsome gown for early autumn Is of red cloth , the skirt llarlng and about four yards wide. It la trimmed with baya dere strips of black velvet on the upper part. A simple bodice , trimmed with velvet , opens over a blouse , front of white satin , embroidered with gold. TIGHT SLEEVES. Skimpy , skimpier , skimpiest ! And the superlative degree 1s the order of the day In sleeves. In this particular red gowci It Is skin tight , without any pretense of full- ncca at the shoulder. The only relief Is three scanty , square , uncompromising little tabs , trimmed with velvet. Drop the epau lettes and the climax Is reached. Few , however , adopt this extremity , and the saving grace of a slight fulness or puff will continue to be Indulged In by the many , while the adventurous few will agonize themselves for a while In the throes of fash- lon'a latest freak. The dame will tarry nt this stage long enough for her victims to become thoroughly aware of the discomfort of the tight sleeves , strained muscles and .the excessive stupidity of meek submission. A general revolt will result , and the reign of reason will change places with folly , for a brlet period at least. New autumn hats are chiefly remarkable for 'the huge birds poised , as it were , with all oalls set , as though In the very act of fly'og , and very often forms the only trim ming. The bird of paradise continues Its vogue , and , If anything , U more In demand than ever , U teems a very filmple matter at the first slance to arrange a chiffon veil over a sailor hat , but It is not so by any means. And as everybody almost weans a sailor liat and llio chiffon veil is a very necessary adjunct In these late summer and early autumn days when the tender youth of summer Is dead , and the straight rays of Old Sol are unmis takable In their Intensity and their ability to tan with tolling effect , a yard and a quar ter Is the usual length , and it la curious to see how many women will economize on that extra quarter. Fold It In half and tie a slip knot In the middle of top , there it miwt bo caught np loosely In the back , and herein lies the art. to have the veil hang loose from the facea so as to bo lifted easily when de- olied. The soft masses make an effective trimming to the brim ot the sailor , and are most becoming In cream white and the new blue , large dotted chiffon veiling , relieving the hard stiff outlines of the conventional sailor. The end ? , hang In the luck and the general effect looks as free from design on the oart of the wearer ns though it simply floated through space and dropped there. The new straight front corstt Is especially adapted to conceal surplus adlpcee and too bountiful outlines generally. Stout women the world over do well to try It , for In these enlightened days , too many curves are ae wrath provoking as are straight uncom- DromUlng lines without a single redeeming curve. For these women , to whom even the qualifying adjective "slim" cannot truthfully be applied , the very short , or even the cm- ulro corset la a saving grace. The object is simply to keep file waist within reasonably small dimensions , leaving the bust and hips absolute freedom , unhampered by artinclal ' aids of any kind , a free translation of'which means only a chance to grow. EMILY IIAZAIID. IJ FOIl IIUIDAh 1'AUTV. < litInillviiliinl 1'koto- "I n llrlilul ( irony , The design accompanying this description shows an original Idea , for preserving the Individual photograpliH of a bridal group. The central ovals may frame the faces of the brldo and her maid of honor , while the six bridesmaids (111 ( the other spaces. Another arrangement may consist of thu brldo and groom , as central figures , the I'-KAMIJ FOR niUUAL 1'AUTY MOTUUKS. maid of honor In the upper central email oval mill ( he best man below ; the four cmiicru being occupied by Iho two brides maid * and two ushers. If a smaller wedding - * ding party has been ajoft'cjcpixlltnt than the one with the greater number of par ticipant * . * ' * The frame U very simply ' .made , on a ploco ot water color paper of any nlzr pre ferred , the ovals being finst carefully drawn in position and the decoration then put In nUce , This Utter should be chiefly of gilt on the white ground , u touch ot color being given by a dainty pluU , blue or green , form- lilK the main decoration PC Iho top ot each OVA ! < except the central onttr ) , and out- * - W V1W flSA \ * VA\ # | lined with gilt , as also are the broken llneu of the mosaic pattern. The Napoleonic wreaths arc , of course , green , but the ribbons should match the color used In the other decorations. The heading about the central openings Is also gilt.A . A pretty variation of this design may con sist of a vine of leaves , forget-me-nots , pink rosebuds , or any flower desired , enclosing the rim ot the oval , which latter still re mains gilt , the flowera being added to the design as It now appears , When the painting la finished tho. portraits traits should be glued Into position , and the whole framed In passepartout , the glass being securely held by linen tape , which when bound about the edge , lasts longer than paper and may be either left whlto or gilded to match the rest of the Ucslgn. On the back , which should be of thin brU- tel board , fasten with loops ot the linen tape two little brass rings to hang the frame by , and ask all the members ot the group to place-their autographs In this space , and In this way limy bo obtained a pretty , durable and exceedingly Inexpensive souve nir of a happy occasion. It a more clabo- of a flat. ) lop then a Jue of gray pot tery , Urge In < ilo , will prove a , z > lendld bit of ornamentation , It filled with wild flowers of cvcry , .Kind , the Men being that a combination i9f toncparo necessary to make this unsightly-object n charm , The bride's 'tiblp should stand directly In the mlddlo o ( tKo room. To the clover hostess , who \ % .ajwnys on hand with well- equipped llneu , , t ° he , damask for this pjhemo should bo a plain , center , the design lying chiefly In tho. inrder decoration. For the center there may .lie spread a wldo lace of honlton make , , which can run the entire length of the..tablecloth , or' else n largo square ot fine linen , with their green leaves , or nny whlto.flower , which will show off ' the same sch'tine. As a finishing touch a deep lace la pretty and effective ; cither will suit. On thla place a tall epcrgne , one ot the old-fashioned kind , with three or four receptacles for ferns or flowers. In these mass an abundance of white asters , glndlollts In blush tint , or nny whlto blossom , either cultivated or field , with maidenhair fern. Around the base ot this silver ornamenta tion let there bo a twining of rnnllax , closely put together , which will form a small mound. To add to this scheme n floral adornment can be given as a border to thn cdgo ot the table by small and delicate bunches of maidenhair fern , pinned down from the under side of the cloth , and In equal distances apart group some whlto carnations or some whlto flower In bunches of three , tied with narrow No. 1 white patln ribbon In a pretty bow with ends. At side tables , In the decorating of punch bowls , Ice cream platters and the like , the j grapovlno Is most acceptable , especially the ! tender parts ot the vine , which are so light In tone and tints. Out there Ki one piece ot advice which Is necessary In the Using of wild flowers for any social function , that they are gathered as late In the day as possible for the com- T5UIDES , URIDESMAIDS AND SLOWER SCREEN. rate frame bo desired the same general de sign may bo reproduced in embroidery , using gold thread instead of gilding , and working upon white satin a bit of the * bride's gown If possible . \ VKIMIIMSCOItATIO.Ng. . Yellow mid \VIilu- the Fiivori'd ColorN for Autumn. Weddings , like the poor , wu have always with us. Dut after the busy spring season there Is usually a reaction , with renewed impetus In the autumn. .Many young women prefer to make their weddings the effective and appropriate wlndup of the summer's campaign , A rural wedding Is a novelty. Remote from caterers and florists , It gives opportunity for that Ingenuity which wo all like to have called forth. Na ture furnishes abundant material and the artistic tastes and deft lingers of the sum mer loiterer are never more sympathetically engaged than In adorning the house or coun try church In which an autumn wedding Is to be celebrated. Autumn weddings decorations are most easily managed In white and yellow. Goldenrod - enrod and yellow and whlto daisies cover the fields and slopes. The more Important thing Is to have u well-conceived and well- thought-out plan of operations. The par lor , hall and collation room furnish the areas to be decorated. In the parlor a flower screen should be made , before which the bridal couple Is to stand. If the roam has an old-fashioned pier glass the trouble will bo slight. Fasten at the top four or five fine picture wires and carry them to the bottom , where they must be tightly fastened. Twine these wires with creep ing charloy. gathered In the woods , or any other suitable vine. At equal distances on these perpendicular garlands fasten groups of daisies , tied with wire or green cord , DO that a pattern will seem to be worked out. This may bo done by alternating the groups or arranging them In right lines , Above build up a bold , dashing freeze with ferns , swoct-sniPlltng shruby , or any light tree leaves. Carry this to the celling. Goldenrod - rod bunched out from behind the frame , taking care to have all the stalks nt tin mme angle , assists the scheme. At the bottom tom bank up a mass of green small cedar trees , bushes whose leaves are shapely In form , or palm-like plants gathered from swampy places. If by luck there should be an open fire place , then cloao up the space with a mass of green , In which goldenrod and oxeyed daisies are massed , giving also to the broad hearth a veritable award of leaves of every shade. If the mantel Is ono In which there are a series of shelve * , then the structural llnca can bo traced out with vines , and on the shelves or in the receptacles vases of while and yellow flowers. The chandelier should be twined with green , and from the top whlto satin ribbon four Inches wide carried to the four corner * of the celling , grace fully twined with n sltiKlu vine ot Hinllax. Use green lavishly at every point , as bou quets , baskets and charming bits of lees ? foliage and blossoms for tabled , hanging shelves and the like. Over duoro that are poled and curtained , or wlndowD that are draped , big branches are exceedingly decorative , particularly those of the young silver leaf maple , which , If abundantly used , Is exceedingly ornamental. Corners of rooms are often a novel feature , made BO by the grouping of sweet-smelling ahrubs , cornstalks , cedar branches , or ferna of a coarser growth. Thla Is particularly applicable to the halla. These green effects should reach the celling , being mstised at the bottom and growing lighter in charac ter as they approach thu top. The big hall with the stairway offers possibilities If It Is ono of any size. Drenches of any sort of green ran bo u cd , however small the space , In many home * there U generally an un gainly tov # for the winter use. which for reasons U left there at all seasons of the year. To make this a presentable object , around thl.-- black body can be given come trailing vliu-t. like * those of the woodbine or Japanese Ivy , whose leaves are big and of a dark nhadu In Rrren. At the bottom , the lamt * leavf-j will da duty If only well tocelbrr. It tbl * r cu > ttcl ctu Ing event. Wild flowers fade very soon their beauty lasts but a little , and that only when fresh , a fact to be well remembered. AIIOt'T IIAlltl'INS. K.xtciil of the Imlusli-y 111 the United SluteN. It was not until 1S7S that the manufacture of hairpins began In the United States. Previous to that time those used In this country were brought from England or France. There are now several largo fac tories In the United States that turn out an which arc objectionable- spoil the pin for the market , 1'OON.MI PAlVi'lM ) . Hpvtvnl of Stenell Work on Stuff * llovr to Cut tlir I'nttrrnn. The newest thing In fancy work Is colored Poonah painting. It la revveil from the days of our grcat-crandmothers , with very many differences and Improvements , The great advantage ot the work , now as thtn , Is that It requires neither talent nor exper ience. It Is done on velvet , satin , cardboard , paper or wood. Some pieces shown arc ex ceedingly ornamental , and it la prophesied that It will take the place ot colored em broider } ' to a grest extent. U Is cheaper , takes much Iras time , and Is almost , It not quite , aa durable. The first step to bo taken In Poonnh paint ing Is preparing 'tho ' formulas , These for mulas are nothing more nor le3i than a set of cardboard stencils , and may be made aiftcr any design. Lay a plcco of tracing paper over the design you wish to copy , and , with a fine pencil , trace every line , showing the shape of the objects , being careful to glvo every piece the same num ber that la Intended for the same plcco of cardboard. It Is best to have these num bers ns far apart as possible. Then select two small objects , nearly opposite each other , ns conducting points , and bo cart'ful to BCO that they are cut Into every formula or stencil. Unless the design Is particularly elaborate , three pieces of thin cardboard will bo sufficient to make the stencils. Take the first plcco of cardboard , lay It over a piece of carbonized paper , and over both lay the tracing ; then take an Ivory stiletto , or some blunt pointed Instrument , ( and go over every outline marked No. 1. Repeat this process with each succeeding formula , an It Is the only means for keeping the for mula exactly In place. The next step Is to cut out , with a line sharp knlve or scissors , all these traced objects In the cardboard. The formulas or stencils are then complete , and may be used for painting any number of articles. The paints used are pimple water colors , but great care must be taken to have them mixed perfectly smooth. The brushes , which are made expressly for the work , are with out point , and are to be held perpendicularly. Thcr ? should bt > a brush for each color , and It should be moistened equally all over and then applied through the opening In the teiicll to the fabric , which has been imiDK'S GO-AWAY QOWN article eciuolMT jiot superior to the best fin ished forelEn''mii'de pin. The trade Is uch a largo ono that If take * 50.000 packages , each containing from twejvu to twenty pins , to supply the wholesale demand dally In New York alone. The machinery used U of n delicate and Intricate character , as tin * xmall prlccu ut which the pliitf are at present told necessitate the mwt rapid and cheapest process , which ean only be secured by au tomatic machines. The wire Is made ex pressly for the purpose , and to put up In largo collri , which ( irti placed on roeM. The end of the wire l put In a clamp , -which car ries It to a machine whllu stralKhtenliiK It. There It la run through a machine which cuts , binds , and. by a delicate and Instan taneous proccts , thai pens the plus. ThtRo mauhlnta' will turn out from 300 to 350 hair pins every minute. To economize It in often iiecetoa'ry to keep them working night and day. The most difficult part of the work la thu enameling , which la done by dipping Mie pin In a preparation and baking It In an oven , Here la where * the moat eonbtant and careful attention lx required , as the pin must bo perfectly smooth and the enamel have a faultier polUh. The fiUghtrit partlcltx of dust CAUS * Imperfection * and rougbncu * Htrctched beneath. When every opening In the drat stencil has been painted , then the next hould bo put on , care being1 taken to ice than the conducting poIntH are exactly over the- first which have already been painted. The opening In the ( second stencil having been colored , each tucosedlng one Is put on and gone over In the umo man ner until thu whole picture Is complete. 'All ' touches and lines that are too fine to be Introduced Into the stencil * mu t be put on with a sable bruxli. AH the design can only tie produced upon the groundwork by uecer-lvo uliadea nf color , the first shade nhotild alwaya be of the palest tint ; with It cover the whole of the aperture , then work In the darker shades ono after Iho other. In their proper place , according to the design. When working on velvet , It is best to flnlxh each object an you go on , because after the Ilr ft shade is washed In. the velvet will beat take the NUcceodlng shaden while Htlll damp. In painting leaves , especially largo ours , It U best to have one-half on one formula and thu other half on the other , by which means the pace Is divided no an to get thu correct line for the middle vein. Then , alio , velulng paper may be uied , the velun In the leAVes being traced and cut out , the darker colors can bo worked In to match the design. Only one edge of the brush shnuld bo allowed to touch the fabric. It 1 * best to begin to work the color Into the dftikc.it part ot the leaf , shading It gradually toward the outer edge. When this pointing Is done on fabrlco ot delicate colors , after they become- soiled by exposure or constant use. they may bo freshened , often mad * to appear new , by n sort ot splatter work , done with nny desired color. This consists In saturating a soft toothbrush In the desired color and drawing a knlfo across the brlatles In such a manner as to evenly splatter the groundwork on the painting , the painting having previously been carefully covered. The shade should bo put on sparingly toward the [ lowers atd Increased In depth toward the edge of the velvet or silk. All the small spaces among the leaves In the mid dle of the picture may be easily and quickly dotted In afterward with the finishing sable brush. . In Poonah painting on paper or linen , the brush mtidt be OR dry as possible when ap plied to the surface , and the paper must be allowed to get perfectly dry bctoro ttio same epot Is touched again. In painting on , , 'ood It should first be painted while , for unleps this Is done the tint of the wood will ppoll the effect of the colors. The dotting process Is especially adapted to both paper and wood. and Is very effective. Many beautiful and useful articles may bo made by simply or namenting with floral designs ordinary boxes , handscrccns , gypsy tables , etc. Af ter painting It la best to give a thin roat of some transparent varnish , which pre serves the color and prevents rubbing off. I'Vmtnlnr An original and dainty bodtco Is made ot smoky pray llaso over rosy pink ellk. Crepe de Chine In the loveliest tints Im- nelnablo will have high place among elegant dress textiles for two seasons to come. A sheath sleeve with one , two and thrco rufllcs at the top Is the best ono for wash gowns , oa they launder BO easily. The novelty color of the hour with Paris fashionables Is a violet blue , liarly Importa tions In mlllnery ehow much ot the new blue. blue.Narrow Narrow black velvet ribbon and steel heads combine to make an effective decoration that promises to continue Us popularity Into the fall. fall.Whlto Whlto gowns are still much worn. They are made of all kinds of material , from the sheer lawn to cashmere and serge , nnd with them white shoes , white hats and white belts are worn , with not a bit ot color to be teen. Novelties In black and white continue to bo shown and many leading modtsted claim that thn combination will not only hold the Rum mer through , but will be among those eagerly sought after In the fall. Thr latest mousquetaln * sleeve hfl fie heading or tuck nt the back of the arm or on ton of It graduated , beginning at n quarter ot an Inch at the hand and ending two Inches and a half wide at the top. \Vlng drapery on sleeves la very much In vogue. The top la fulled and the fullners la drawn tight and tacked down acrcss the middle , then allowed to s-tand out In a wide trill from the back of the arm like a wing , as Its mime denotes. The stylish ties for. next season are the Imttcrllv bow , the accordion-plaited bow nnd j the Nauolean stock. In color these tics are gorgeous. I'lalds , It is believed , will be the ! moat popular , even more o that the Homan stripes , which are somewhat newer. Pure-while shirt waists are much worn , and appear to gain popularity as the season advances. Surah , taffeta and India silks , as well as fine linen of the sort used for the bosoms of men's shirts , are the materials most liked and all in style. Some of the new fall Importations of house gownp have a double sleeve , a oheath sleeve underneath , and over this 'a full rae hanging lornely down. It Is not prognosticated that this In but the entering weo-ge for a revival of the dainty lane and mull undcrslccve of the ante-bellum days. A handsome new gown Is of rich black satin , with the bodice of black brocaded gauze ; the front of the waist Is covered with a broad , smooth tab of black satin , ' cut to lit the high collar at the throat' end fasten Ing In at the waist line , where It Is caught In a decided blouse ; this tab Is trimmed with jet galen , as is the top ot the skirt , high about the hips , where jet embroidery in lad ! nn smoothly. If you want ito modernize the large leg-o'- nnitton sleeve of last summer's gown tack the fullness up to the shouUTer In the center to form a butterfly puff and finish with a rosette or how of ribbon or a strip of in- cert'ing pointed at the end to hide the tack- Ing. This added decoration l only a little fancy touch nnd Is not a nccei'nlty , as the tack can be done so neatly that H will hardly show. Thu latest flat of fashion Is that only when they accompany a toilet or costume In black and whlto effects are whlto gloves stitched with blaek any longnr Indispen sable for day wear. Doe color , biscuit , mushroom , nltnoml and pale brown and tnn shades arc , strictly speaking , more fashion * able. The economical , whether from cholco or necessity , will be glad at this change ot fashion , for whlto gloves , even with the greatest care , svll very quickly , and nothing looks worse than a dingy whlto glove. Hut verj recently a mixture of many op- posit n colors In gowning was the rule. Pa rlslniis. from whom we take our Inltlatlva In fashion , arc- now declaring In favor ot harmonies. To these the preference has always been given by very many of our most fashionable American women , they considering that a woman never looks as well as when attired In ono color selected with a knowledge ot her own particular coloring and style , the gown toned or shaded so that there Is no effect ot mo notony. I't-inlnlnc Nutcn , Mrs. Marlon Crawford , wife of HIP famous novelist , has dark eyes and golden hair , two things rarely found In the same person. George Kllol wrote for eight years with the same pen , and when she lost It bo- walled her misfortune as almost tou hard to bear. MM. Jleawly of Philadelphia rejoices In an Income of $20,000 n year derived from an Invention ot her own a machine that hoopa barrels. Mrs. Craig of Chicago has started with a party ot thirty men ns a leader of an ex pedition to the Klondike. She Is a young woman and wife of a well-to-do contractor. Mrs. Chester C. Adams of Wlnlock , Wash. , Is the first seamstress tn reach the Klon dike. It 1s snld that In thirty working hour * she netted $90 from sewing In Dawaon City. City.Quoon Queen Victoria owns GOO houses. Most of them pay richly In yearly rents. Compara tively few lire her palaces , which are ot great value. Her private fortune Is safely invested. Kmpress Augusta Victoria of Germany has Instated that the money subscribed for a statute to her father , the late Duke Fred erick , shall bo used for charitable pur- > posctf. Sarah Grand has spent most ot the winter and spring past In the couth of Krance. world. Ing steadily upon her new novel , which will he finished this fall. She says that It Is not another "Heavenly Twins. " Mrs. J. A. Hayes , the daughter of Jefferson Davis , lives at Colorado Springs. She has two sons , the elder of whom , by an act of the Mississippi legislature Is to bear the name of Jefferson Hayes Davis. Hx-Empress Frederick of Germany , the mother of KmperorMlllam , will attempt to bring about a reconciliation between her children , the emperor and the crown prlnco of ( Jrcece , at the family reunion at Wll- helinBhohe. The emperor hos never for given lite sister for changing her Protratnnt faith upon her marriage to the ecci of King George. Molly Rlllott Sewall , thci young authoress. Is OIHI of the moat enthusiastic club women of Washington. Most of the cluby to which she belongs have for their object the ad vancement ot literature and nrt. Mrs. Cragle ( "John Oliver Ilobbcs" ) In said to bo In 111 health , and Is Incapable ot much physical exertion. She leads a se cluded life , spending most nf her tlmo In the library , sometimes writing in bed. Mile. Luclo Fatiro , the daughter of the president of the French republic , la mos't decidedly rollgloiu In her propensities. Matins , mass nnd vespers are never mlsseil by her. though her gentle grace never aroused the Ire of modern esthetic Paris. Itotvi Honheur , the famous artist , Is sel dom seen In a great city. She loves to live In the country , and osjicclally where there are woods. She was recently In Paris for n short time , because four of her pastels ard beliiK exhibited there. . Mrs. May French-Sheldon , who has spend most of her life abroad , although she Is a natlvo of this country , has been elected a member of the Kngltsh Ilnynl Geographi cal society. It Is said that she Is the only woman who ever received this distinction. Mrs. S. J. Field , wife of the justice ot tlm supreme court , and Mrs. George Hearst ot Washington have done excellent work la raising money for a lllt'ze statue of Wash ington , which Is to bo presented to Franco In 1)00. ! ) Up to the present time about | 22,000 has been collected. The total cent Is to bu ? 3fi,000. The statue will be of bronze. It will be modeled by Mr. French. Miss ARJICS Wcslon , known In England as "tho mother of Hrltlsh bluejackets. " has done more for the uplifting of the Kngllnh sa lor than any other woman. She has es tablished many "rests , " and during the thirty years of her labor has done much for the cause of temperance among the tarn. Her temperance magazine , "Ashore and Afloat , " has met with such flattering suc cess that the United States authorities have especially requested her to mall the maga- to American war ships. Kost Unique Contest of the Age $200.00 Paid for Correct Lists matb by SuppSying hissing Letters in Places of Dashes Ko Lottery Popular Plan of Educates Resd AM. the a iculars. In tlio United SSatois four times ns mum money Is expended for education as for the military. Hraiu la bottrr than briiwn. Iy ! our educational facilities wo have hecontu n uruat nation. We , the publishers nf XVOKIIUI'H World nnd JotmuKti PJIllor .llncttlily , Imva done much toward the cause of education in many wnye , hut now wo olfcr you im opportunity to display your knowlcdgo nnd receive nioht Kuiicrotiu payment for u lltllo utility. Thu objector thls.contejt id to give nn impetus to many dormant mind * to nwakon and think ; IIHO wo expect hy this competition of brains to extend the circulation of U'uinnii'N World nuil Jciinrim Ullllcr ITHintlily to such n size thai wo ahull bo nblo to charge double I ho present rate for advertising In our columns. liy lhli plan of Increasing the number of eithserlptloiip mid receiving moro monny from advertisers of Hoapj , pianos , medicines , bookR , bnklnn powdera , jewelry , etc. , wo shall odd SJ > OOOOu year to our Income , nnd with this mathematical deduc tion before us , wo have decided to operate this moat remarkable "missing Icltcra" contest. DE9S 0)1) ) ) ME 1C Tliero are thirty tvordn In this schedule , from each of which letters have boon omlttc : ] nnd their places have been mi | > i > Jlc < l by dnklion. To till in the blunU H paces and uit : thw names properly yotuuust have BOIIIO knowledge "f geography nuil history , ivo xviint you to poll out as many words a you can , then send to IIH with 'j CCIIIH to tmy for three months' subscription to WOMAN'S WOULD. 1'or corrrrl HKIMv < < nhall ulvo $200,00 In rntdi. If moru than ouo person fends n full , correct list , the money will lie awaulud to the llfty bent lists in appearance. Also , if your list contains twenty or more correct words , wu nhull tend you a beautiful User lu Diamond .Scurf 1'lu ( for lady or Kcnlltinian ) , the rruulnr price of which U $ tt.2fi. Therefore , by tendini ; your list , you nru positively n > i tnln of the S . 'X > prl/.u , nnd by lie , I UK careful to send n correct lUt you lnivu nn opportunity of the. ( I2OO.OO mull n ward. The distance that you may live from Now York inakcH no difference . All havn equal opportunity for winning. winning.PRIZES WU Bi SENT PROMPTLY. I'nzoB will bo hnnoHtly awarded and promptly Rent. Wo publish Ilia list of words to bo studied out. In making your list of nnswvrd , be mint to glvo the number ot each word : ! - R A - I - A 'T rfcflf011111 l6- D-SM--K A Dfrto.1 ruler. 2. A - I I Jfamouf thHarceiitlioily . n ' ' of water. 17. GTO I Another not-d ruler. 3- M-D--E--A-E-- 18. P R U A Country of liuroixi. 34. 4. M 0 A larRo river. * 9- A"8T-A-- | A UK island. 5- T _ fl Q Well known river of 20. M I N P Nam0 ° f tl" ) moit n ° 50. Kuropo. ' " ' " u prominent American 0. rt " fl N A * - / * nini i/i u fi n it Southern Status. 21. T K Ono of the United States. 7-H X A city of Canada. . _ > _ _ _ One" I'rcf Ident of thuUulti-dtilatu * 8. N-A-A-A Noted ° pla5r Ol ( , V art 23. -U--N i lake n. F P P Ono of Htates. the United = - } . E - E - 8 - N notcil poet. 10. - fl - R | - A city of Bpain. asCRA A fordim blzu 113 country Kunsuu. , earn * u. H-V--A A city on island n well , knuwn 26. B - R 0 A ] "K < > island. J2. S-M-E- A wi-ll known old fort = W-M--8 W-R-D ' " ' of the United HtattB. 7- iLt-Si'fl- ! \ JO - C R L I A nrcatc9tfortlflcn. tlimln thu world. 28. B - H - I - G A ea. " ' ! 8 A * LE' A ercat explorer , = 9 A - L H - I - An , IS. D - L - F I - Ono ted of Htutca. the Uiil- 30- M-D-G-8-A- In venaintr your Hit oftvordi. mention whether you want prize money sentliiy bank drutt , money ordorormclatcrwl umlJt wo will wnd any wuy thut wluncrH icnulre , 'J'hu I'Ki-rlu IMnnioiiil iju i.erfuct imitation of a IIi-ul JMxmoiia of lart'oul/.u. WmhiryexptrW todiatlncuM fil * Illllllt * IllllflKICIn ; It from real nf B except > lir v * by tfl.inlltv mlcroscoplo l lunrll lout. In M/.nllu every 1.1 < rrsjicct > . , /.I In It n tervcs .t. . . . . . . tfio .I.I punmtu T.I. . . . . .1 . . ! of wlicii your ect of answcra comes invo , nfiuU m-ncl you StJ.ar. In inunuy Inntcad of the scurf or HUuwl 'ln , tn you hhull either rerelvu the piece of Jewelry or the rqiilvulcnt In ranii , In addition to your partlctputlvulnturcit f n thu S'JOO.OO cunli i > rl/.o. TliU ciillro oUi-r U mi lioneht otic , made by a responsible puMHhltiK houo. Wu refer to iiierruiilllo UL'II - rlpMnndi nny bunlt in Novr York. Wo wlllpromptly refund money tuyou If you are dUaiUs * Jed , \\lmtmorucunwoilo ? Now&tudjMind exclmriKo Blight brulnwork furnnnh. With your ll > tof answers Hnncl 2it r.nntu to pay for three months' aiilfcuirlptlon to our limit riiinlir iiiukruy.lnu , Woiiian'H World. H you Imvo alraidyautuwrlhud , mention thut fuctlu your letter , und wo wllluxtvnd your mibscrlptlnn from thn tlmo thu pn-wait ouo uxiilrei. To avoid losu I unending ( liver , wrap money very carefully In p.iperlfor < iliiiihMln In your letter. A'Ji'.rcut JAMES H. PUUMMER , Publisher , (2 * 24 North William Street , - - How York City , K , Y