Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, August 22, 1897, Page 10, Image 10

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    10 THE OMAHA DATVT l'fc ' SUNDAY , AUGUST 'J2 , 181)7. )
allfe MW/ /
C ?
THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
IWOT
K.Oii , STYLUS roil Tiivvii.ins. :
'
*
n J > ' A urHt Tlilnito ' D l ritiuUn it tut
TrntrllnK rnnm.
YOHK.u * . 19Vor late summer
autumn travelers the dust cloak
ki en lndl pn W > adjuuet to n complete
w.Bivlrobf The rldcot * creations of earlier
dy * hitf been relwjMtotl to oblivion , a ft. I
there are rruilndpr * today ot a lops snfferm *
paril , unle K It be the long. lf n. nu'culln *
Itntyl duntvr of the southern nnd wests' n
taiJrtst or the nacrttl nlpim of the priest
wfTl * I'tijoyltiR the trulls nf his labor In n
' KimitiHT oitlne. We have
all that , nml the dust clonk of
today Is a garment of distinction. One ncen
lately on n lady of hlph decree In the
social -world Id made of chatiKPsblp silk , ac
cordion plaited. The back and front aie
drawn In at the walit by a round ribbon
belt , pasting under two groups of plaltlnps
dirt-oily In front. These are allowed to
hang IOCBC. Ttie blouse nlre\e Is trimmed
with epaulettes , and round rovers of accordIon -
Ion plaits at the wrUt. High plaited Eliza
bethan collar encircled with ribbons fast
ened In .1 knot with IOIIR end * In trout. A
FOR THE rROMEX\DE.
simpler. Ices expensive and more all-round
useful affair is a long cape In very light
weight silky mohair , a good quality L ? Indla-
Ifen&ible , and the most economical for wraps
Of this de crlptlon are apt to be given hard
wear. Black la a trifle funereal and there
b'tid"color so gererally becoming or so en-
Hrrty satisfactory as the pcrreulal navy
blue , which never seems to go out of fashion.
Something more jaunty and debonair for
young women "who are so careful of their
uklrta and care more for style than service
Is drolrable. It Is of brown or blue or green
cloth , and is lined throughout with a rich ,
warm. Scotch plaid In silk or wool. Dawn
the front and arotiud the bottom Is a sil
houette of braid , a double row in bcalloped
effect. On the sides and middle of the back
i a. large scroll in wide braid. The capu
chin hood Is Imed with &ho & Scotch plaid
and outlined with three rows of narrow
braid. The collar la a high square pointed
a flair , also edged with narrow braid. There
are also three loops with buttons to fasten
it In fr&nt at the wearer's discretion.
Another cloth cape suitable for traveling
Js longer and more sedate , is also of cloth of
Vwy llKht weight , in color n rich golden
brov.n. It is cut perfectly circular , of ma
terial with deep tucka and is finished with
a rcr,1 edge of deep pink cloth. The cape is
lined throughout with the same color. A
wide point laps over In front , and is
fastened -with a hanflsomp gilt or steel orna
ment. The collar Is very high , with deep
points falling over the sides ; these are
heavily embroidered in Ims gilt or steel beads
to match the ornaments In front , and to
suit the fancy of the wearer. For older
Women black could bo substituted for the
lining and narrow edge , and the collar sup
plemented by an elaborate and intricate
pattern In very fine blark braid. Little tots
of tender years are not overlooked In the
provision made for summer travel , and linens
'
' 8'nd. pongees , as well as more pretentious
muffs , have been pressed Into service to
pr6leet their dellf.ite muslins , dimities and
liatlstes. One distinctly frenchy , breathing
simplicity In every line , H of brown hollancl ,
braided and trimmed with ruffles of taffeta
ribbon. There Is a square sailor collar
with tittle tucks and ivory buttons In front.
The sleeve in made with a puff , finished with
.n-braided bajiil. a rullle of taffeta falls over
the wrist. Steamer eapca are made of
heavy rc-verslble cloth , in ihawl patterns ,
with fringe.
'With petticoats frilled around the knee
and bootee of patent leather , the season
may bo said to be in full swing. It is
frills , frills , frills , and lace In prodigality.
Thus are the elect , who have the real lace ,
anO ) hardly les , those not to fortunate , who
put up with in.ltaiionssuch pretty Imita
tions , nonettr , that fomct lines women of
CHILD'S WST CLOAK.
well known laite urn prefer th m. It li a
w U-known fact that with SOUP notable UK-
option * thes are more tultable for trim
mjpgp , f r tftn r al Uctiaua \ half lit ,
f > haun , l ) avy at It li apt to be. and
clmy. ! An Illustration might Iv slrtn
in the ease of / > woman who was the lur-
tutut * jXMUHiMor. or no onn would ( hlrik , of
t 'luantUjr of durtwM lace. A an honored
KU * C at a [ * cUl function | je wai drmr-
ou * ( .f ( loin * full Ju.llrr lu the or-failon , aiil
ktr laee w ll. An Irery while eailn cown
wan ( i-li ) . | u0 D a a urnpiijou ami fit
IJos tMicksrouni ] , and the ( ) r Miiiakcr en
] "ioeii to vwt OH it many yard * a * , flgur *
mlr * p aklBr. It weuW ItoW. and "what
* yrfyoi do ( Um't ml It. " The vthowem
-1.n < tMt tlon of the Kr iwh woman were o
tin avail and b btgan the work with
< tl alliffilr < n on bf > r pan The lnno
Tl'ilm nt ttrr own obtln icy h1 * jonth'
pre'fyii f * ' frnr1 ) n t > t * I'.ful . .h
> t 'i , i fa K w l''h'fa"u '
W H ih j.jwn uu D
thp larr w piled on to her heart' * content.
and the larr lover fingered It * mc'his lov
hub The result wns not by nn > means
sntlsfartory. It was too hrnvy. too prodl-
K l. and , In short , too everythliiR. All
this , however , made no Impression on the
victim ; neither did madam's tight-llpptd rt-
li'tice. slit1 figuring In her own mind the
actual cost In dollars and cctils. The envy
and rout of tlm various Indies chose was
iven perenrly oblivious of the fact that It
wt % not bcromlng and positively did her In
justice. Sbe went and saw , but did not
conquer. The whispered comments of n
frivolous few reached her ears designedly.
"l i't the n sight ! She looks like a lace
Importer who bus just smugaU-d In her
whnle stock nnd IH wearing II nil on her
back. " It Is needless to add that her even-
Ins was spoiled , nnd the pe.ieock's plumes
swept the dust.
Scruples lm\e vanished with the last turn
of fashion's wheel. The old chantilly
flounces , mantillas , sacks , parsol covers ,
rtc. , of our gradmothera. kept reverently
through all vicissitude * , a badge of gnitlllty.
have at last gone the way of their predeces
sors. An enormous deal of chantilly. white
and black. Is worn , one sioa It everyxvhere.
chiefly over pearl , gray and whites , which
seem to give It added distinction , whereas
color rather detracts and takes from Its
dignity.
Kor early autumn n very pretty finish and
general freshening tip for gowns that ha\e
boon pretty well put their paces during ft
long nnd netlve peaxon. Is a deep collar of
tnoussellno de sole over color. This Is made
of mouesellne. gathered very full , nnd
trimmed with the rows of narrow satin
ribbon nnd edged with triple rucfilng
of juoussellne. The same effect Is carried
out on the rollar , nivl finished In the back
with a large black satin bow. The lining
Is nlso nccordlon plaited and allowed to
como an Inch and a half or two Inches below
the mouroellne. Th'se collars are especially
effective over scarlet or green.
KMIL.Y I. COZARD.
ciisTfiii : * " Kim I'lii
rniK-j Drrsi for Viu-nlloii niitcrtnln-
Illl-llts.
Often at summer resorts people wonder
how to furnish entertainment for themselves
as well luj the children In the hoteio and
neighboring cottages. There is nothing that
glvoj more pleasure than n fancy dress evenIng -
Ing , and a great part of this pleasure con
sists In preparing for the event. Tills de
mands much Invention of mind and skill
of fingers , for the materl.il , provided the
color Is good , counts for very little eo long
as the idea , or design , lo artistically carried
out. Wonders can bu accomplished with
bright colored cambrics , figured dimities ,
gold and silver paper , beads , ribbons , -span-
gleg , paper or. artificial flowers , charcoal ,
pen and ink. paint brushes , scissors nnd
paste pot. To aid In such preparatlona a
few ougqcstlons are given here for some
novel ccstumte which arc Inexpensive and
easy to make. A very pretty ccatutne can
be made from the Ladybird. The skirt
should be black and rather short , nnd the
jodice of scarlet , terminating with two
eng coat tails In the back , cut round. In
the shape of the folded wings. The sleeves
should be puffed and also of scarlet. All
over the sleeves , bodice and wlngn e-mail
alack spots should be gummed on or else
made w'lth Ink or charcoal. Red stockings
and- red m black slippers complete this very
pretty dress.
I'lerrette is an easy moJel to follow , too.
One costume , might be made of bright yellow-
cambric. with short skirt , tight bodice and
argc puffed sleeves. The skirt should be full
and trimmed with stripes of black , put on
n ft kind of lattice work , and If small black
lomponj are scattered over the entire dress
nuch effect will begained. . If the balls can
not bo obtained a few tiny -bows placed
icro and there will do very well , and the
jews can be- easily made out of ribbon or
dack cambric. A pointed cap. made after
he fashion of a dunce cap , In yellow , orr.a-
nented with pompons or bows , black gloves
ind black stockings , give the finishing touch
0 this Idea. Another Pierrette can be en-
Ircly drffsed In black without any touch
of color : and another In white , with black
lecoratlons. or in white with palo blue , or
txile green trimmings. In every case the
pointed cap Is a necessity. Pierrot for a
> ov Is all white with either red or blue
uots.
Miss Follv Ie also pretty. Her dress U
aiitastlc. Select a yellow cambric petticoat
and cut a bodice that fits , tightly , with long
and fiharp points descending to the hem of
ho skirt. The latter should fall only just
jelow the knee. This bodice can be made
of. pale blue or bright pink , violet , scarlet
or white. The low neck iind sleeves should
also be decorated with points , nnd every
; jolnt should carry at Its tip a tiny bell.
Folly is also a good costume for a boy ,
who. of course , should have yellow puffed
inlckcrbockera and A jacket ending In pjlnts
tipped with bells. He fhoulil wear a large
ruff around hU neck , cither of lace , white
[ awn , or of yellow cambric. The .Xorlh
American Indian is a clever boy's costume.
.Some brown cambric kilted under a belt of
gold paper , a fantastic sash carried diagonally
from the bhouldcr to the waist , Innumerable
strands of beads , which he can string him
self. and a headdress of turkey feathers , , will
euggn > t the tavage at very little expense of
tlniu or money.
The Sandman Is an easy costume for a
boy. He can wear a long gown of gray
cainbrlo with a cowl of the same , and , If hu
ran find a good gray wig and beard , he will
be much admired , especially if he carries a
bag marked "Dreams. "
Portia is simple for a girl. Nothing more
U needed than a gown of black cambric
with full white linen wderMeeves and a
neat black cap ; another easy one Is Winter ,
made of wh.tt cambric with a few bits of
raw cotton sewed here and there for snow ,
some Christmas tree tloeel. and a few
bunches of artificial holly If they can be
found. Spring is altvays pretty. Any com
bination of green arid white will do for this
with a few flowcrti scattered cm the skirt
and worn as a wreath. The Har\e t Queen
N pretty if dressed in yellow cambric with
buncht nf wheat and scarlet popple-s , and
a similar wreath. Dragon I-'ly ta nice fur a
boy , made of purple , and red cambric with
large wings and a few apaRglrs or ciUin |
wrinkled here end there ; and LI Hung Chang
Is another , for all that he needs Irf a yellow
cambric coat and a little black cap with a
peacock's feather. The flowers are all easy
to Imitate. A pink rose with a pink eklrt
and a green bodice with points resembling
the callx of the flower U very pretty , es
pecially If a wreath be worn on the head ,
and a cluster of pink rosen on one of the
puffed clccvca or BhouMcr straps. Iluttvr-
cup Uf easy , In yellow ; HO Is the poppy In
scarlet and gretn ; and fi'rn , In pale green ,
with real ferns tacked here and there or
drawn In Ink by t.omo clever fingers. I'an y
! harder , but very effective , If made In
purple and yellow , with an ovcrsklrt shaped
like the petal * of this ( lower. Tulip , of
pink and grten. Is nice , and so li unfluwerj
In yellow nnd brown. Night U simple with
black tarlatan ipatiglcd with gold paper , itar
All nf thitic ehould wear veils. Night a
Mark one , morning a hlutt or roiy out- , and
twilight white or blark. They can all be
fiitened with a cr < * cent. The kings and
of the cariln arc simple for both
and boyi. A whlto drem or coat , bor-
with black anrt covered tvlth large
. - rlet ilatnoml ! or heart * will do for
1 liber klnx or < | uun of hearts or dlamondi ,
whllr the king and ( | ui > c > n of p dM or clubs
hnuld have their drcM or coat bordered
with scarlet am ) decorated with black ipad ( i
or cluln.
A Japaneap woman U pretty ami iltnpU' .
Illuo mi' ! Hhllo cntton ran he pimhaaeil at
anr h"P where Japanci * good aru Hold.
The Kown I * nit illluoao with flowlriK tleuvfc.
A red rot ton * sth Is ( led In a big butterfly
bow In thu back. ArrAtigp th hair high and
iMk Into It any llttl * knltkknark * 7011 ran
* ur i ni pi ! , tiny f n of little paper
r Mir tomblnatlnii Mill do. but the
( 'it li IQ ri ko the ( -rt | In rod nnd
vhl'v I'rlp'i and tin. bodlc * of blue
' the white ntars A little crown of silver
j smro I * pretty , unless the red liberty cap Is
preferred Ii l-'rnnce Is also red , whlto and
blue. This Is pretty made In alternate
wide stripes of the three colors , with n
i dnlnty bodice of whlto and whlto fan-shaped
I sleeves at the top of the bare arms. A
I tiny rc'l cap should complete the costume
i nnd to rarry n Krpnch ling would add effect.
An old witch Is provided by making n rod
skirt with a gay pannier of figured calico
or dimity , a fold Ml neckerchief , a pointed
blnck rap nnd largo buckles on hur fOioes.
llpr skirt might be decorated with a black
bat or two cut out of cambric and sewed
or pasted upon It , and she should cnrry n
broom. A snnke charmer could be attempted
by a green tarletau < lrrss , n scarlet bodice
ornamented with gold paper trimmings , n
profusion of bends , bangles nnd chains , red
stockings , slippers nnd paper snakes twisted
about her dress Hoys cnu bo easily dressed
by trimming their suits with n bright color ,
nnd adding a cap ; or mantle will make
them knights or kings. They can be turned
enslly Into soldiers or sailors , nnd Mother
( loose characters , such as Little Hey nine or
Cock Robin. Yellow stripes on ordinary
clothes nnd a pair of wings will produce a
bumble bee , and a few splashes of color and
wings a butterfly.
LATUST TIIIXOS IX Sll.Vnil.
Ili-naiiiciilal anil L'Mcfiil Artlclm ofOlil
mill .Nc\v Di-Mln" .
Fashions In sliver jewelry , fancy articles
and tableware for the coming season show
many beautiful new designs as well as a
revival of many beautiful old designs. The
latter , however , are all modifications ; that
Is to say , while the design in the main maybe
bo old , , sometimes dating back to the Oay.i
of William the Conquerer , there nre always
some llttlo touches which bring It up to
the present day.
Kor tableware the newest designs arc after
the old English pewter tankard Beta. One
elegant tea service is perfectly plain , ex
cept for a tiny bead bordering. The .silver
tray Is oval , on lion claws. These claws ,
showing on the feet of the entire Eervice.
Another service , while not more costly ,
though more ornate. Is also of old Kngll.ih
draign. The shapes are not so old as the
tankard , but arc more graceful. The mout'.i
and top of the teapot , together with the
edges of the other pieces , are ornamented
by delicate garlands. The handles are of
ebony , 'the black of which sets off hand-
SILVKR , STAG HOIll
Homely the brilliancy of the plain Bllvrr.
The tray designed to go with thUi set , la
entirely new. In nhapo It Is a broad oval ,
with a bottom of polished Mexlcun
mahogany having un ornamented nllvcr rim
two Indus deep. Thin combination of wood
and tillvcr IH a new Idea , and wan designed
by thu firm for which It was made. It has
a very pleasing effect and reduced materially
thv prict ) of the net. Ono ran ea.illy account
for thlx when recalling that thu tray often
conU as much un all the other pieced put to
gether. Kor persons whoao taste calls for
more highly ornamented bets thbt aame firm
nhoHH a new tea net encircled by heavy
garlands of rrf , hand carved. The handles
urti not of ebcny , nor la the bottom of thu
tray of Mexican mahogany , but of nolld
! Ivcr. This vet , according to the designer ,
U to null thu lew ) cultivated American taste.
Such arc- people who don't care for wooden
handled , however foully or effective , and
who buy their ullvcrwuro for uhnw Instead
of ue , and who do not mind having It dirty
to a grtatvr or lt degree Them ) rxpertu
In ttllver nay It In wrll-nlgh impouilble to
keep tlil mueh-earved and highly orna-
ineiilod illver clean , \Uiercaa the plainer
patteriiB call for only an occaHlotinl rubbing.
I'LATK I'ATTKHNS ,
In illvor plaice , dlthei , etc. , tbe uuwcit
design * have' ' openwork bordorti , namrtltnrfl
of floral de Uu. ; others of plain or plaited
rope psltutiiM. &MHO ot thrni remind ona
of thp old-farffUancd chlnA placrjilM , tbroiiRh
whoso c-dgM .qoloreil rlbhona were passed.
Small wnltet.V < > t llih style have hwvlly
wrvctl center's' ' ' And nre all perehpil on Hllver
balls or ornabtfutnl claws as feet. In the
jMtnlU-H of : i'Mlis , forks nnd ladles thlfl
plaited pntteni , ls shown , but the nionii-
factmpre pro'pffl ( to bellevo that they will
only be porjilnr' as novelties nnd not as
stnplo goods. " ' .
The npwMt1 tilings In silver-mounted gliws
show stng-hqiyv Imndles. The elfoct , nsldo
from be-lng cJnUcely hew. Is both bc.iutlful
nnd elegant , j The. majority "f plccw so orna
mented are inlqiided for thp use of men and
ore ixirtlcularly appropriate. A large punch
bowl of heavy glnos In n combination of
prism and diamond cut Is mounted on n stand
of solid sliver. The rim of the howl Is
burnished silver , HIP lower edge with a
nairow carving , nud there nre live handles
of staghorn mounted In silver. Another largo
. olppp of similar cut glass , with silver chasing ,
I Is n loving cup. having two handles of fling-
" horn. Then there Is n stand tor cut tobacco , j
holding possibly two quails ; the cut of the I
class la a combination of prism nnd old
Ungllsh ponty. It h.ts two stnghont handles
and the plain frosted silver top Is orna
mented by ii knot of the horn In the center.
In this style there nivs every conceivable
article for a drinking or sporting man.
Whlvjky and brandy flaka , claiet jugs , loving
cups , to bo used as prlzM , clgnr Bland ? ,
rlgar lighters and numerous other elegant
pieced , combinations of out glass , sliver and
staghorn. Next Christmas no woman need
puzzle over what flic must glvo her nnn
friends. The manufacturers have seen to It
that the masculine persuasion shall be amply
urovlded for In the future.
The latest In toilet silver U hand engraved.
The finish la cither Krcnrh gray or burnished ,
V
sj W7 ' MSfesSs
and the figures generally floral designs , are
engraved , as areone's initials or monogram.
In some very handsome sets ot this style
this silver Is heavily plateU with gold befoie
the engraving la done. This la the newest
style of silver gilt. Aside from being hand
somer , it cannot be dl.itingulshed from solid
gold , it possesses one great virtue. It Is not
nearly so easily tariilahed as silver. The
style next in newnera to hand-iMigravIng U
the empire , which comes In allver , burnished
or Krcnch gray , which , by the way , takes
the place of oxidized , and In sliver gilt. It
Is not so expensive as the hand engraved , but
a little more so than the old style which
showed heavy figurss really molded , though
they were euppcced to Jiave been hand
carved.
For powder nnd bonbon boxes , the favorite
designs show many Jewels In their heavy
gold or sliver tops. The handsomest of those
Ijoxoi .resembles squatty sugar bowls of ele
gant cut ghufl and EO large aa to be used for
a cracker jar. Indeed , a girl wno receives one
"f these elegant affairs may well bo. puz
zled as to whether shu must thank the glicr
for a powder box , a bonbon box , a sugar
bowl or a cnckcr jar. .Tha dcalo themselves
acknowledge to. bo puzzled.
SILVER JBWELIIV.
Among the smaller silver articles and jew
elry there are new styles nnd designs galore.
N AND CUT ( ILASS.t .
t-
The ncwiMt Illicit ? , vinalgrettcri , pursed and
bracelets are heavily Jeweled. Indeed , any
and every nrtio , | ; ] r f silver gilt that can ho
Is Jeweled. The latest bulls are of flexible.
ro o JlnUhod igllyur gilt , with large JeAclH
thu xlzu of thu.fiiiil nf a man's thumb , about
two inclua apart. Tboee joweU are set In
filigree silver gilt , nnd cxnnpctrd by two
braided ropes of silver gilt , while loop * of
iillver gilt chain suspend smaller jewels mld-
wny between thu larger ont . Another bull
of burnished silver in made ot three strings
of silver bcaiU. held In place at Intervals of
about four Inches by solid silver pieces two
Inches wide , and heavily cngravi-d. Yet on-
other belt 1 o BUcccHsIon of silver ulitllii ,
enameled In the natural colors and la-Id In
placu by what appear toljo genuine bltx of tcu-
weed. Chatelaine will be more fashionable
than ever. On one new one. thu dculgn U
fleur-de-lis In bright sliver and blue. An
other shows a full 'blown thistle with Hteiii
and two leaven In tht'lr ' natural colors ,
Chatelaine * also ghmv many jewels , after the
jewel ( U'flKiiH perhapi the most popular aru
those with enameled miniatures or floral ilt-
Blgni. The ihape * of thu various chatelaine
accetunrlci are about the name , but theru Is
u now pur u with what li styled a bead
web net with bead ornaments. This pumc ,
which come * In either silver or allver gilt , In
much handromnr than thosn of lust leaton ,
nml another advautag" I * that It opens
tqunrn and not In a point , thereby holding
more coins.
To ho stylish npxl season It would serin
that ovpry woman mint hnv < n bng of HOIIIP
lze. shape or material. The silversmiths
cater to thin drmnnd by making Ihe p bags
In sllko , velvets , molrp , leathern ml beaded
net In nil MIPS , ranging from an ordinary
slzo hand satchel to n medium sl7t > purio.
All of them arc nllve > r mounted , In the three
popular finishes , the handsomest arc jeweled ,
and may be had with slender chalnti tor
wearing around the neck or with clasps to
catch on the belts. Among the leather ones
tlui moot popular serins to be of elephant's
hide or n rough Japanese leather.
Sldecombs for next season comeIn sets of
three or four. Somellines all hlugcd to
gether. Thcso little combs nre no longer
worn only on the side of the head , but on
top of the bend above the knot and juat
beiieafh It. Those for next season nrp per
haps more ornate than ever before , the cdg s
all showing considerable filigree work and
ninny Jewels. Thp teeth nre somewhat larger
and the combs themselves n trlllo longer.
For bicyclists there Is n now matchsafo ,
which Is strapped to the front of thp wheel
and guaranteed to forcp nut n match simply
by pushing a spring and a cigarette cnnc
worked much nfter the same manner , lloth
of these llttlo nffnlrs nre made In sliver for
the flr.it time and the most olegnnt ones
come In silver gilt with jewels.
Ki'inliiliii' Kn MI I u n n.
A big whlto shade hat has pink ro es , black
velvet rooeltes nnd white tips.
Lawn petticoats are trimmed with lace-
edged or plain rufllcs of the goods.
White hntfl are seen trimmed with big
bunches of white vlolcU , with Immense green
loaves.
Double frills of considerable fullness glvo
"WAITING KOR THE TRAIN.
an ornamental touch to coat sleeves of excep
tionally snug fit.
Light gray gowns are considered extremely
fashionable , not only for the young girl but
for the married woman.
A new plush-edged skirt binding Is made
of a band that naturally shaped Itself to
the bottom of the aklrt.
IJrass uniform buttons may bo sewed at
the back of the waist and below the rovers
of a blue serge or cloth Eton jacket.
Yokes and other accessories belonging to
nlctue gowns made up by more fanciful modes
are treitod to soutache braid decoration.
Crasa linens are again In style. One pretty
one seen wns made up over red taffeta ,
which was particularly effective under the
linen.
Renaissance and Ilonlton lace braids , LS
readily obtalnaole nt any notion counter as
are the washable braids , are used on rulllcs
and plaltlngtj.
White evening gowns of last year that have
beoomo boiled or lost their freshness can be
utilized now with the thin gauzes and nea
that are so fashionable.
A simple mourning gown Is made of robin's-
egg blue duck , with a vest , cuffs and ( leap
sailor collar ot white pique. Tbe collar and
cuffd arc bordered with blue nnd a whlto
pique belt is worn.
A woman who has slightly stooped shoul
ders should rellgloiihlyavoid the blouse
walat which Is BO popular. She might wear
It slightly bloused In front , but never in
the baclc.
Thu queen's jublleo IB responsible for the
preference shown for purple printings on
black grounds. Reseda , old rose and other
colors appear on black or whlto grounds
In both the dots and largo spreading de
vices.
Unique , yt > t stylish es a trimming , Is a
band of ribbon about two Inches wide net
edgewise over the Hide-front beams of n
black grcnadlno skirt and encased In n
ptlfllng of black chiffon or inoueuiellno do
sole.
sole.A
A flax-colored crash eult has the hklrt
trlmmeil with rows of braid , put on In cliu-
tt-rs. The jacket Is round and nUwhed buck
and front , trimmed with braid to match
the skirt. A colored silk Milrt waist lu
worn with this suit ,
With the hot weather any number nf
thin gowns nro seen , of material aa line
and sheer CH cobweb , with > ardH nnd yurds
of UCH and ribbon rashis , bows nnd loojw
of ribbon. lloth narrow nnd wldo lacca aroused
used to trim every style of gown.
A polo gray rashmi-ro is mnilo with skirt
trimmed with bias folds of black am ) yel
low fcatln. A yoke of yellow vclvot allows
abnvu the doublo-brcasted blousu front , I
which is trimmed with an nppllquo pattern
nf bhuk iinil yellow xatln folds. )
The nttwcHt foulard nllka have In addition i
to the l rgo wave linen and marlcn polka
dots varying from a umall tint to a disc as
largo as u silver 25-cent piece. Whlto de
signs on ravy blue grounds , though often
copied In Inferior qualltlim of ulllc. continue
to occupy Unit place among thcuu cool sum
mer Bllkv.
A palo pink silk mull , with an embroid
ered dot , ban been mailo over silk. The
oklrt IIUH llvo fluuiicti * , edged with narrow
lace , and I lie waist ban Btrlpi of lacn eewed
on horizontally , and over the top of thu
leuvo are four rulHcs , edged with narrow
lace. It has a black inolro collar and uash ,
while a big full ruche of pink at the back
of the nc-clc relieves Iho plain color. -
Ono co tumo Juit completed hay a fcklrt
and wal t made of alternate tucks and In-
Hcrtlonn of valenclenno. The material IB of
whltu mouuscllno do sole. There wan no
lining in thin gown , simply worn over whltu ,
and the effect was OH transparent as poa-
bible. It hung to gracefully , and was more
effvctlvu than a ruffled and flounced gown
could be.
Strong effort * are beliiK made to remove
even thu pretty llttlu puff * and frills from
thu tops of drcm uleeven , leaving them
wholly plalu. Thli 1 * Dot likely to happen
any moro than In the return of Iho onp-
hutton Rlove or HIP Utmnril hoow | klrt. There
are ( tilt a fnw thtnrr.it which c\cu the ultra-
fnfthlnnnblo new woman has ceisrd to toler
ate.
ate.Tho
The 'Trlncww of Wnlrn" In ( ho natim
given to n brand-new , exceedingly smart ,
Very rlopo-rollltiR nltk umbrella of various
nlrgnnt nhndm that IK almost too hnndxomc ,
from II * idlk-tnMoled handle to Its silver
stick lip to do thp duly for which It was
dwdgned. WP should certainly reserve a
"I'rlnrrKfl of Wales" umbrella for possible
light showers nt fashionable garden parties.
"Kngllxh" picnics and water fetes at New
port , nnd ktpp to commonplace prnotlc.nl
Drother Jonathan models for everyday uses.
The latest Importation of miminrr gowns
contains some pretty satin foulards and mitt-
finished Liberty s.itliw that ran bp worn
Into Into the autumn. Thesp show the un-
inlstaknblo skilled handiwork of a noted
French dprlgnpr. Some of thcsp nre phnt-
twlllpd foulards , one handsome * pattern In n
gown changing from dark rcwr color to deep
green , with n tiny strlpo on the > surface In
palo gold satin. For trimming Is used n
> ory beautiful design In cent guipure lace.
laid over currant-red silk. There Is n
pleated ritchp at the hem , formed of the
foulard. The spven-gored skirt IB almost
nlipath.-llko. on the front and sides , hut very
full at the bnek , and Is silk lined , with
plain dark red taffeta , with only a fUe-luph
Interlining at thp hem to support the ruche.
Mrs. Uns'oll Sago still has her diploma nml
graduating eiway , which she wrote over fifty
\e.irs ngo.
Kmprcra Augiwta Victoria hns In.ilftod tint
money subscribed for < i statue to her father.
the late Duke Frederick of Sphleswlg-Ilol-
stein , shall bo used for charitable purposes ,
Miss Gertrude Pearson Jackson carried off
the highest honors .it the annual commence
ment exercise * of the College of Phydltluns
and Surgcon.i lu Ilcuton.
Mrs. Mahula Thompson of St. Oporge , MP. ,
would IIP worth thousands of dollars to HOIUP
vender of patent hair rcuewur If only slip hud
been do foinseelng aa to use such article.
Mrs , Kllzabeth A. Reed of Chicago has
been elected a member of the Roynl Asiatic
society of London , thla In honor of her suc
cessful work In Hindu nml J'eralati literature.
The. Wmley.in college nt Macnn , fin. , claims
to bo the llrst college In the world to confer
a diploma upon women. In ISlfl this college
conferred a diploma upon Mrs. Catherine
llrewcr Deasun.
Mk-s Grrtrude Dwycr of San Antonio was
crowned "Owtrudu the First. Queen of
Texas , " at the May festival In San Autnnlo.
She has gone on a royal visit to President
Diaz , In the City of Mexico , and It Is slid
that her majesty Is to negotiate and obtain
some \alimble commercial privileges for her
ratlve htate.
Harriet 1'rptcott Spofford owns and liven In
a quaint old mansion on IVer Island , near
the old seafaring town of Newburyport ,
Mass. It stands on the rock , lapped by the
sen waves. Hero nn Ideal existence Is led
by herself and her husband. Mr . Spofford
Is famed for her hospitality , her rose garden
and her housekeeping.
Princess Theresa of Tlnvarla , n maiden
lady of mature years and ns eccentric in
her appearance ns In her behavior , has ex
plored all South America , as well as un
known parts of Siberia , her services to the
cause of geography having won for her
honorary membership of most of the geographical
graphical coddles of Ruropc.
The cross of the Legion of Honor Is asked
for Duchess d'Uzes by thp citizens of
Valence , whcro her monument to Kmllo
Angler hns been set up. They recall the
fact that one of her sons died while in serv
ice In Africa , anil that the other Is ulso n
soldier. The monument Is the one which the
Juiyrefusod to admit to the Champs Klyseu
oalon.
The aged mother of Joaqtlln Miller , the
poet of the Sierras , who has lived with him
on the heights baclc of Oakland , Cal. , for
many years , is slowly recovering from a
stroke of paralysis , nnd it IH thought she will
survive. Mrs. Miller , though 82 years old , is
strong and nctlyp. She llvrs in a pretty
llttlo cabin only a few rods from n similar
cnbln In which Joaquln dwells. She Is an
object of tender regard by her son , whenever
never permits tourists or curiosity seekers
to annoy her.
Mary J. Holmes lives at Broekport , N.
Y. , and Drown cottage is a bower of flowers
from spr'ng till frost. The house Is low and
rambling , with broad , cool piazzas , nnd the
writer of fiction and her popular husband.
Daniel Holmes , the lawyei , delight in lavish
entertainment. Mrs. Holmca has been n
great traveler nnd she has Innumerable
pieces of bric-a-brac , furniture and souvenirs
from Egypt , Constantinople and Athens. She
Is a famous gardener.
Kate Douglas Wlggln Riggs occupies
"Qulllcote" way up In Maine It Is a roomy
dwelling surrounded by line big trees. Acres
of land surround it and there is an apple
orchard * hfro the author of "Timothy * *
tjnpnf nml "The Story ot r l y" docs murh
of her work , Inildp the hnunt rc to bo
fotiml blir. con dim piled with plllona , in odd
mantel nhrlf with equally odd bric-a-brac ,
a miiKlc room well nlockrd w Hi different Wi
KtruinenlA , dainty colonial furnisliliiRH and
tunny hooks.
The empress of AmlrU weigh * lr than
any other crowned rosal lady In Uurope ,
her wrlght being only 102 pounds , In npll *
of the fart that lur mnJptUy In extremely
tall. The queen of Kngland , whui last In
Nice , welched 224 pounds , moro than tvylco
ns much as the Austrian pmprtus. who In tui
murh tnllpr. The queen of Italy we glm
IflG pounds ; HIP quprn rpgpnt of Spain. lf > 7
pound * ; the ex-Qneen Unbplla of Spnlti 259
pound * , nnd the queen regent of the Nether
lands , 21,1 pounds.
Thp great German general. Moltkr. married
Miss Hurt , nn Kngllsh girl , and lived niott
happily with her until her death whlrh took
placp on Clirlatmn.q WP , l < if.S. Very touchlns
wns his devotion to her memory Vpon hM
cMMo at Krc1. mt ho built a innuoleUin ,
sltilatrd on nil eminence , embowered In
follagp. In front of the altar of this llttlo
rhand wan placed the simple oak coflln ,
al\\a\H coveted with Ira\rfl , In which the
remains of his wife rcp. ctl. Sculptured In
the nine wa n Iliiply tur\ctl figure of our
Lord In Jin attitude of blessing. Above WTO
InsLTlbed the nonla : "Loven \ the fulfill *
meiit of the law. "
Yvpllo ( lullhert , or , ns one should say ,
Mm * . Schiller Jlncr her recent innrrlnKO with
a wealthy AniTlean chemist , lias earned
moro than 1,000,000 francs In her profes
sional career. Hut , over and above this num.
she has made nnmethlng like another million
on the stock exchange , thanks to 4ho ) * !
ltt\iiipyi ll.inmto. During one of hU sojourns
In Paris the late mtlllon.itro presented Mile.
Rnllbert with a handful of shares in n rcr-
talu mine. The gold fever had not then uet
TRAVKLING CAPE.
In In France and 'Hartley insisted ujioii secrecy
us to the possibilities of the shares In ques
tion. Of cauifio. mademoiselle gav thu ' 'good
thing" away and up went the shares , so Uut
Vvctto netted another 1,000.000 francs , aa
jlic had the good sense to sell out when
the paper was at a premium * She IH now a
rich woman ; her salary Is never less than
S25.000 a vcar. and , what la more , she is A
happy wlie.
O1.OS13 TO MXl'.TV.
John Ilownnl IJrynnt.
Hero , now , I stand , upon llfe'n outer verge ;
CIoiH ! at my feet , an ocean wide and deep ,
Dnik , tullen , silent , and without a surge.
Where earth's past inyilndM lie In dream
less sleep.
TIs here I Htnnd. without a tin 111 of fear.
In loneliness allied to the sublime ;
1'he broken links of love that bound mo
here
Lie scattered on this treacherous shoal of
time.
But ptlll I ollng to friends who yet rctnnin ,
Htl'.l love the glorious pcencs that round
me lie :
Striving to Mtny the wa te of year ? In vain ,
As swifter yet the winged moments lly.
Idly I sock the future to explore ,
I partly know what is , but naught tlmt In
before ,
Unique totes * of fibs Age 8200,03 Paid for
Dorreci UsSs made by Supplying hissing Letters in
Places of Dashes Ho Lottery Popular Pian of
Educaiion Read Ail the Particulars/
In llto IJnElp < l Stnd'M four times as murh money IB cipondnl for education as for thu
military. Drain Is better tliitn linuvn. Il > our ediicatlomil fiK'iiitlctt wu huvu bcooinr it ureat
nation.c , the jiubllbheia of WOIIIUII'NVurltl nnd JOIIIICHH THIIIcr .llontlil ) , huvo
done much tuwiinl thn cuusu nf oducatlcii In mitny ways , but now wi : offer you nn opportunity to
display yonr knnwledgo and receive most ueiierotiH pujmeiil lor u IKIlo fludy. The
objector this contort is to nlvo nil impetus to many dormant mlmlrt to nwnkuu nml think ; nlo
wucxpeclliy tliliconipctltinn of briilnn to uxtvnil the clicnhitliiii of M'OJIIUII'Nurlil nml
Jciuioiin IfJIllcr ITloiilIily tobuoh a ttlzi ; that wu Hhall bu able to clmigfilotibto thn present
rate for advertising In our columns. By this plan of Increasing llm niimlier nf mbci IpiioiiH und
receiving moro money from advertises ! of Hoaji.s , pianos , medicines , bonks , luikliuc ppwders ,
jewelry , etc.vu nliiiH add sj > ( > , ooOu jcar to our Income , and with this innthumatU'al duiluo.
lloii bcluro uu , wo have decided to opuruto thU most runmrkublo " mlsaiiig letters' ' contctt.
Thrro nro thirty \vonl In this schedule , from each of which lot ( era have been omitted
nnd their places Imvo been Mipplleil liy ilnnlifH. To fill In thu blank minces und nut thu
names properly you must have wmio knowledge nf geography and history U vnni j on to
upcll outiiHiniinvworilsnH you ctin , tbnn send to IIH with " : CCIUH to nay for n three months'
mbscrlptlon to WOSMM'B NVoni.ii. l'nr corrcrl Hit * wo Hliull ultn c2 < M > . < > O In rnch.
Jf moro than oua person eamUii full , roirect llst.tlio money will bonwaided to thollfty bent lltls
in nppi'nninco. Also , If jour lUt contninH twenty or innro cm reel wordH , wu Bhull fend ton n
beautiful li erlu IHumoml hear I I'lit ( fur Indy or neutlcniaii ) , thn rcuulnr price of which la
$ 'i.-/i. Theiefore , ! ) ynundln | { your Hat , yotiaro positively rertiiln of thu J2i'5 inl/.e , ami li ; * IL'-
IIIB careful to eenilnrorri * ! list JIIM ImvoiuioppiirHiiillyof ihn $ ! loo.OO cimli iiunril. The
disianco that you may llvo from Now York nmkis no dlirorcncu. All have equal opixirlunlty for
winning.
I'rl/.cH will lie lioncntly awarded and promptly mint. Wu pnlilli-li thn list uf words la
buHtudlcdoiit , In innkl UK your list of answers , buuuro lORlvu Ihu number of each wnrd ;
J. - R A - I - A nVrjr . > l l6' B - 8 M - - K A noted ruler.
2- - A I - I NamooftbeUrwill"I ! ? . - - 0 T 0 - I - Another noted ruler.
3MD E -A-E-- A sea. J8. p-.RU-.fl _ Country of Kurope.
< j- - M - 0 - AInr"B J9-A-ST-A-I- A IIK | ' ' " ' '
e T 1 < 5 Well known river of SO M I W F N'anifl nf ( h mint
3' I n O iSurnpo. * " ' ' " * [ irnmlniint American
6 C _ _ fl U fl A oily In one of the '
" ' O H n II .Southern Hates. 21. T " A Oniiiif the I'nltt'd States.
7. H ) ( A city of Canada. -2 1 I _ r F - - R M Onrn I'rKnldentnf
| | , D i/iilifii hiatus.
K M fl fi A Notixl for display of
23- - U - - N A la ,
n n n it water. -
0 _ p C C. . Ono of the United .
* * t ii i * HtatiJt * . 2. ; . E - E - 8 - N .
10. - K - R | - A rlty of Spain. 3u i n R A A for fi r country , eamo
H-V--A Acltyon wellknuwn ifl. B - B - 0 A
it C _ M _ C _ A well km . VJ-M Q W-R-n l''Pular family
J- - - -
- O Hi t , , f tu | , Un 37. n in li ll u
' 3' D C _ li _ L | _ H _ tlouln ( Irealcatfortlllcn. the world. 28. B - H I - 0 A m-a ,
' 4'8 A"LE A great explorer. Z9A L N I An ocean.
_ L _ F _ - > | _ " " -j'j.-J- . ' 30M D-G-8-A-
In Hpiiilluu your HM ( of wurilu. inuutlnn wlinther you want prl.o money tent by
li.Tiik ilnift , money onlur or rejlHti-ri"l mall ; nu will bend any nay tlmt ulnnuiH iruulre. Thu
lcrrlu ! IllniiiuiKl in. liurfeut. ImlUitlon of it Heal IHiimiiiiil of juuiinl7JWudufy expert *
tci ilitjtliiRulxh It from real except by mlcrowoplo liu-l. In utery rrcpect It ber\cH thu piirputu uf
fieniiliiK IXuiiioiulof I'urcul ttmilllv. It lnartUtlntlly miiunled Inn llnuuolil'iilnlvd iiln.
warranted tu wear former. This plcoo of jewelry xvlll iiinliu it inoxt ilitlrvblu ulil to it frienil If
yoiiilo not nciil H jourtelf. At iirewntouriuijipfyof tliti'e lllaUllmlliiil , umllf ihej
when > otir tut of nusworH cornea Invo Hliull nenil jon fi'tt In money liiHlcail of the
Scurf or Hlinu'l fl u , ro you hhitll ullher recolvu I hn plcro iif Jewulry or Ihu t tiulvulenl In casfi ,
In addition to your p-trtlrlpnllvo Intercut In Ihu ijlUOO.OO ruxli prl/.r. TliU enllro oll'tr
IN nn liuiicHl one , i rim I by a ru. i > on lljlo publlnblnu IIOUKII. Wu refer lo iiinrriiiilllo ugeit-
rli-M ami liny liunk lu New York , NVo will promptly I ufund inonuy to you If you uru illMJitl -
Ilixl , WhatmorurunwodoV Now utility , nml exchaiiKu ullubt brain work for rush , With your
lUtuf uimviiM Hcntl 'in c-uiitn to pay for throe months' fiuhttrrlptlun lo our urcnl fuiullr
iiiueiKliHs Wiiiiimi'n irlil. If yon huvti already milnnrllxvl , inontliin thut fuel In jour
lettermi'l wuvrllliixtcml your nubicrlptlon from the tlmn Ihu present iina tixplrrs. To avoid
lodnluiwnillnvtllvcr , wrap money vurycurufully In iMixirlx-funi InriiMliiKlu yourluttt-r. Addraui
JAMES H. PLUMMER , Publisher ,
82 & . 24 North William Otroot , Dept. 517. _ Now York City , N.Y ,