Nebraska Newspapers

    THE OMAHA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , AUGUST 15 , 1897. 11
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
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llM ! , llllil W
'
FASHIO.VUU.i : FA > CIKS.
Virlonn Xniettln In Incrcnur Pent *
Inllif Clinrin * .
PARIS. Aug. 2. The ingenuity of tbe
Ycn h woman it never it ft loa to dev ft cew
tntttal- ; for aiding and abetting the- female
fora divine. la all the latest Park model *
thTc ! s a clever arrangement for filling wit
< oo * ! lgM figure * . This e-ontists of ruSe-s
abcjt "hree inches wide made ol ribbon.
DUE..n lace or any material to match the
pnon Three are tewed Inside the body ,
( .cross the butt and make a toft fulneit over
* Bat cbc-tt , Tbe ruQe * present a very at
tract a < appearance , and the retire absence of
coltcn or bear- pads , co-called abettor * bat
really form destroyers , is refreshing to the
ereThese
These ate placed ID all the French gowns
nw being turned out. so that len l aad fat
rllke mar have tbe benefit of the netr
wrinkles. Thtce ruffles can be removed as
easily as a hkld when cot needed.
The woman who wishes to look younger
PRINTED POULARD WITH RIBBOX
SASH.
_
than her years , and to this we all will plead
gtiHty ha made the rash this season a sine
qua non for all her costumes. Tbtre IK some
thing delightfully frivolous and feminine
about 6 shes ; they -nil ] give an air of co-
tluc T to the most sedate. Great Is the lati
tude of this fetching addition to a smart
gown , and fifteen to fifty are alike prlvilesed
to enjoj It With sashes in front of us. sashes
behind us and sashes all arcund us. the " 400"
are on tbe road to cojquer.
The sashes k \ today are made , not born.
es was tbe ribbon scsh of our childhood.
-when the ability to make a pretty bow Kith-
out musslag was considered an LTL
A very pretty sash Is made "o blue taffeta
silk , s-pllt down Ihe middle and hemmed.
The ends are rounded it the bottom and it
is in ! bed all around with an isth-wlde
taffeta ribbon , with fancy edges gathered at
one end like a ruffe. These two Ions nds
are gathered Inlo a blue taffeta girdle , wilh
a pointed I-ont and a lUtle fulled In hems
on both sldts In the ba'k. The girdle J
aaJe firm with five short whalebones. The
two 'n ths back are about three Inches , the
one In front two and tbe two on the sides
one Inch .le p. Tills If worn with & blue
and creen India silk skirl with three little
ruffles on the bottom edged with lace and
erransed so as to form large scallops. The
body is of bltie chiffon , accordion plaited
and draped vlth lace , drawn down Jn a
point In the back and outlined with seed
pearls.
THE BATISTE SASH.
The batiste sarti U from twelve to fifteen
Inches wide , made wilh tiny little tucks
and lace Insertions , attached to a belt of
the same- This is worn with an embroidered
ballsle gown. Tbe skirt Is round and
trimmed at the bottom with a ruche , rep-
arated by a strip of narrow ribbon velvet
The entire bodice Is made in blue effect.
and a wide band of velvet holds the fullness
In place. A large collar of guipure makes
a most effective flnleh. Tbe sleeve Is cut in
oita piece , a little bouffant at the top. with a
( all of lace over tbe band.
A blcck chiffon sath is made of the full
width of tbe material , the long ends fulled
Into large rosette-s at the bottom and fin
ished the rame way at the belt-
Thls Is most effective worn with a gown
of pekln and mousr eUne de sole. The skirt
Is plaited mouES-ellne de sole , mounted very
high at the sides and twck. and bowed In
front over the skirt of pekln. The plaited
tkirt forms a beading of moussellne. The
( body Is a round waist , made with a very
* .llgbt fullness , trent and back. The top
has k gulrape of plaited mousaellne de sole
with a straight collar and belt of velvet.
The sleeve U of gathered moustellne de
ole , with epaulette of pekin. bordered with
a ruche of moussellne de sole like tbe
.
A sash of green chiffon , full width , and
tucked el the ends , with large bow at the
weUt. Is very dainty , but cpt to prove perish
able. Such a cash Is tremendously effective
worn with a blue flowered foulard. Tbe
corsage renders a blouse effect Tbe back Is
formed In two plaits , extending from the
shoulder seams to the belt : tbe fronts mike
two even plaits , closing In tbe middle ; the ;
are trimmed with large revert , opening over
an embroidered waistcoat. The round be !
as well o < 5 the plaits In front are trimmed
with o\ol Jets. The sleeves ere In one piece
finished with a lace rude , which falU over
the hand
THE WEDDING SASH.
The draped belt of white satin Is suitable
for a wedding gown. It closes at tbe side ,
under a la'ge bow. > elow which is fastened
I cpray of orange blossoms.
Toilet for little cirl from 15 to 14 is made
if printed taffeta , with a blouse opening over
i chemkette of moussellne de sole , plaltings
f tame trim , the round collar and cross in
front. The sleeve U made with a ebon J u3
Kith a I'.ltle plaiting falling over the tight-
Ittlng lower part. The skirt Is full in tbe
back with a fiat front and U trimmed on the
bottom with a rufle of taffeta to match the
rown. The f uh is of ribbon , ro&de with a
ihree rrnere4 bow with , long ends , and te
* orn at the side.
That tbe feet demand their own share of
consideration is shown by tbe fact that tbe
skirts this sicboa are made with due regard
to tbe becmlns In that direction. Tbe full-
nee * at tbe bottom and multiplicity of tiny
ruffles will make a real substantlil foot ap
pear cUe or two smaller , merits which
many , not tec < e&arily from Chicago , cannot
afford to overlook. Not that one bears much
nowadays about the small tool , neat anklei
and arched Inttt-p. that was the special
prerogative of tbe old-fashioned gentleman.
who reveled in tbe visions of lotellnecs
khown forth In the "Book of Beauty , " and
tlmllar dissipations. He i * a relict , and , like
tbe Indian , la fact dying out.
We In this more- practical ace. are still
exacting as regards shapes , but cot so much
( or sue if tbe law ol prwpartlan is well con-
cldtrrd. Tbe small ankle almjb bds Its
ad ml ere.
THE BANDANNA ONCE MORE.
The bandaana shin valsl is mere popular
with the northern than the couthernbred girl.
, Wbetber It i , with the latter , that tbe
lender recollection * U tte ttrlf Cay * and
" i- = ' * ' '
I I M" - MJ' I I
i old sw.tl.trc mirr.tny mike U stem like ]
: poaching < cn sacred preserve * , or more likely ,
perhaps , that 'he brunettes or southern I
blondes. A dltticet variety by the way. from
i the northern product , have learned wisdom
i with tbe l p- of years , and know by sad
| experience , that these excitable tlctt are cot
for her. Baby blue and white U tbe com
bination ; r excellence for the brunette ;
Dick comet next , not tbe pile dyspeptic kind ,
but a rich royal rwe. For the pure olive
comt'lfxltm } u ealne and Jcnqoll yellow are
great beantifler. . and dis-cover charms hlta-
' erto bidden. The toeu have no objection to
4 barjd nn j oa the woreof complexion , as
I IhMr bandaroa hatbands and aecktles seen
' evrr.vw here will tetlf > .
i With batiu&s ; snilts. Trench women have
1 discarded knickerbockers and bloomers , la
aver of tights. The most sati f ctory bath-
ng suite are tuade of blue or black alpcca ,
with ticfau ( o match. A ahlte alpaca and
ilack tights U all well enough for Troo-
vllle . but rather startling for more con
servative Americans. But alpaca , whether
cd. white or blue. Is by all tbe odds tbe
< material a * no amount of drenching
will destroy that springiness which is most
desirable , and clad in black atca ! , a woman
who tips the scales at a hundred and ninety ,
may ra.'ilr venture into tha surf and merge
with dignity la the face of the most critical
audience. EMILY HAZARD.
A WOMAN UPTICIAX.
In Her Ip lre In llr n Helpmeet Mip
( of n ! * rofV Klftn.
II Is said Ibat Mrs. Emma Beckwltb is the
only woman optician la tbe city of New
York. She has recched her diploma , and
therefore U entitled to treat eyes and sell
glasses.
Some two years ago Mrs. Beckwlth , having
a taste for business ! life , concflve-A the Idea
.hat perhaps by close application she rnlcht
be a helper to her husband , who is a well
knonn optician. So she commenced by
going regularly everv morning to the thop
and taking in all the branches of optical
work in a sclentiac way.
After learning its methods ehe studied
and graduated from tbe New York Mutual
Optical company school , and it now a fine
example In making this line of work an ad
mirable purpose for women. She declares
"thai this business is not only a clean one.
but decidedly entertaining , " and urges all
women doctors to add to their store of val
uable Information a complete knowledge of
the eye. That for children this Is pe
culiarly uaeful. as nonsCays they suffer
from luany ills for which 'be eyes alone
tro responsible. She also asserts that "to
the general practitioner lame and money
remain for those if once success to
achieved. " That the woman doctor should
make a study of optical subjects and connect
It with her daily practice of medicine.
Women are particularly fitted for this
work. It involves no bard labor and only
care and attenlion are required to make It
a profitable investmentIt is essentially
ladylike , and. above all. it is a profession
that has not been overdone. The one
greal fact. It Is comparatively new , and
for that reason I am anxious to spread
a line of work which women can do with
ease and comfort , lea vine ; o& at an early
hour when the day's work is done.
Mrs. Beckwlth is an agreeable talker and
In her chatty way gives many humorous
points In her line of business. Among them
theix are people who long and wish far an
intellectual air and think by the putting on
of glasses the means is devised. Tb.il an eye-
gliit.s makes them dlsllnguished looking and
the lo-gnette makes an Impression , to thai
il is nol uncommon 10 put in plain window
glare in place of a lense. All such orders
generally come by mill and the reminder is
forcibly glvea that th frame and chain
Ebould be of an elaborate sort , to fill all the
requirements. Naturally no expense is
spired , and for tbe optician proves his beat
orders , so the Imellectual air is gained.
But this came rule is often can led out
when the patient , who is a hypochondriac.
MRS. EMMA BECKWITH.
hands in a written prescription , which , by
the optician , is filled In with only a plain
glass and tbe whim without harm Indulged
in. For ell such eyeglasses are naturally
ordered and spectacles strictly avoided. There
are also pathetic sides. Sometimes there-
comes to her office a pale-farr , AOJI. out ,
faded woman wno is no longer young , who.
pecbans. is a teacher of almost a lifetime or
a. follower of same duty equally ending , and
who needs classes for eyes that can no longer
be without aid. Very often the buyer is
most careful that her ejes should be fitted
with those that are becoming. That , it
pnsslble. spectacles ehould be avoided , which
i : eo detrimental to the basinets and thai the
tyrant. Time , should be appeased at ell
hazards. In ibis ease every effort ie made
to meet tbe demand with satisfactory re
sults.
Mrs. Be-cktrlth lives In a charming apart
ment facing one of the city parks. She
has a most womanly ( > ersoaallty. combined
with excellent rare business sense. BesU-
she Is a helper to all women , which makes
her an universal favorite in the circle in
which she moves.
_
1IOI..MJ TO MCCKED.
A Colurnilci Girl Illnrklli r Hoot * for
MUIIP ) t Hulrr CullrKr.
MiM L.U Verne Hall , one of the cleverest
young girls in the class of ' 97 of the East
Denver High school , and historian of her
clao , who is employed a part of her time
in the reportorlal departmenl of the Denver
Times , has opened a boat blackleg establish
ment on Sixteenth e'reet , in orier to raise
eaougb money to enter Yat ar college la the
fall. Tbe ealutstorisn of the cites of 'i > 7 is
the cashier , and a half 'dozen pchool bay
friends will at Ut as shoeblacks. When
business U rushing the young woman who
opened the establishment , when not engaged
In pen work , attending strictly to bucl-
"What suggested such a scheme to me ? '
said the joung woman , as her eyes eparkled
at tbe thought of college doors beicg opened
before her. "It Just flashed across my mind
the other evening at home. I was thinking
hard bow I could get enough money to go
to Vassar. I looked down slowly at the
foot that wan keeping Ume to my thoughts ,
My shoe ceedeJ cleaning and the thought
rambled Into i2y mind tbat tbe big shoe
store * bad discontinued their shoe polishing
ctandi which they lei people patrorlre free
If they purchased shoes in their store , Tbea
like a flash I saw a way to raise money.
There U no place In the city where a woman
may have her tboe * polished except she t ts
up oa a box in an alley like the men do.
I never ssld a work to anyone , but set to
work. Pirn I had a circular printed and
mailed to every club and society woman I
could think of. Then I took f'O out of what
I bad caved from my cewepaper Iwcrk and
bought all tbe equipment * from my etand.
When all this was done I asked tbe saluta-
torl&a of our clacs If ehe would help me.
She consented at once and now cbe It
cashier. Teen I epoke to some bojs and they
were all delighted to come and help me.
Now that I am atarted I have no expense ,
as e-ven tbe store room to given to me free ,
and I hope to make JJOO by September. I
tare risked my | , to t * con , but I thick
I will get It all back aad more. I will b ?
the oapplect girl la tbe world If I can go to
Vattr this fall , and every talaute I ta sot I
working In the oJSce 1 spead tolleltlag trade j
and waiting oa customers. Of course I will
shine shoe * mystlf. "
MI15. JK5MB IIUATUV VllBMO. > T.
Some Itrmlnlnconrc * nf Her Life from
llrr Oirn Lip * .
The name of Jecsle Fremont calls up
maay memories. To the memorable presl- I '
deatlal campaign of 1S C H gave a flavor ! i 1
of romance that kindled the chivalry In { ' I
many a young voter's nature The union
of the Rock ) mountain hunter and the hlpb-
pptrlted daughter of "Old Ballloo. " is her
father. Tbomas H. Beotoa , senator from
Missouri , was affectionately called , as murh
as the principles the new party embodied.
gave fervor to the famous frt-e ell cam
paign.
There are thee of today who will be
glad to know something of tbe beautiful
life that is now EO peacefully being lived
lovely ees , not yet bereft of all their youth
ful lustre , wete bright wlih emotlca.
She told me something of her eventful
life , of her home In Washington , where for
thirty jears her father , tt United States
senator , lived out Ibe honorable principles
which have crystallized into history , but
with characteristic reticence she withheld
the graceful part she bad borne in that
llaory ; bow at that time she was an ac
knowledged belle of tbe old regime , and
that in her were centered the finer qualities
of a long line of illustrious ancestry of
which she might well be proud. More than
this was apparent ; the gifts and graces in
herited from the famous men and women
of tbe old dominion , so renowned for beauty ,
culture and refinement , etlll clung to Mrs.
Fremont ,
"I love Washlagtoa , " said Mrs. Fremoat.
"There is an agreeable form of society , a
repose and elegance , clso a spirit of tolera
tion from the varieties of people meeting
there that I like very much. In fact ,
Washington is the drawing room of tbe na
tion. I would have preferred to spend my
days there , but the political conditions
after 1&G made It unpleasant , and we went
to New York , where we lived over thirty
years , with occasional long vielta to Cali
fornia and Europe. "
In vpeakicg of this , the "Id : "The
queen's Jubilee brings tack to me our first
visit to Europe. It was in the early days
of Ler reign ; Prince Albert via still living ,
and I was prtsentrl at ro t * ari saw the | I
queen in all her happy Jp.u'-b and royal i I
ptatr > . She made a ttacfcul picture and I
her countenance and DMHT showed that 1
she entered Into thepresenratons with la- j
tert-st. Prlne Albert , till snd much hand-
MMntr than a aan need1 b . were a white
aad pold uniform , a&d bV two completed
the truly royal picture. "
"I saw them both a few'rvealass later to
even better advantage.1 * "Each time tbe
qaeea aade the ram < Impmston of
womanly pooJae-si. combined with a look
of power , t simple ted utrronjcloui manner ,
but that of unquestioned authority.
"We were there la tie" height of the sei-
son. and bad been presto ) * at the Easter
drawing room , where I * a ked to remain
through tbe whole eeremcoie * . which were
over two hours la length. At that time DO
sorrow hid touched tie q\ieeii She wts sor-
rounded by those who lovH her moil Prince
Albert , her mother , and all the nearest mem
bers of her family.
"While la London General Fremoat bad a
delightful recognition by Ihe duke of Well-
ingtrn. and , I suppose , that except Nan en
na cae be * roused more intercut aad been
more honored by the Royal Geographical
society than the general. From them be
recflve-d the founders' medal. "
General and Mrs. Fremont , with their
family , spent a year In Paris and from tbe.r
Buuee oa the Champs Elyt-ee they wltne < 6ed
many stlrriac scenes , among them the official
entrance of Louis Napolwn as emperor.
The whale story ii charmingly recorded n
Mrs Fremont's "Souven r of My Times'
One piragiepb may be recorded. "We went
forth from our home atmwphere of pe'fect
barmscy and most lovely surroundings. Into
the fine palaces , and had nowhere a Jar to
the sent , of completeness. "
Mrs. Fremont belongs to tbst class of
edgre. "What was one * considered a preitr
CcirbiEF a well-worked realtor Is now a
thing of the part , and a variation of edges
takee Its place | '
This season there are > bureau sett made of , 1
tbe &aet of shctr linen. They are long and
narrow , tbe edge heavily worked In conven
tional design of o9d-fashioaed blue marking
cotton , combined with white silk floe ; , tbe ,
corn era particularly rkh In big squares of
faaey stitcher , some three loche deep. At ,
different ancles of tbe clcth wag a water-1 I
color device la delft colors outlined so as to i !
produce a plctur * r rnse To % r Mnr > * ny' '
this was two imaller mats made on the fame
plaa. but lighter la character. Another accessory i
i
cessory Is oae dc-ne In daisies. The edgee In
a very deep cut scalletp of more than ordi
nary elie and la rach scallop a. blossom to all
their natural colors , the green stem running
toward tbe center of the clMh. leatlng the 1
middle perfectly plain , this desirable patUvn ,
having tbe merit that It will suit any toota ,
whatever tbe color or tint. |
To the woman of thrifty ana ccomimkral .
mean * there are bit * of silk lefl over , which !
can be utilized cs sofa pillows , with lace or <
net. Golden shades for these are considered
the best. To make the pillow an orna
mental one. cw on each end of the top cover
a pointed lace In white or black , leaving In
the center quite space enough for the giving
of fancy stitches In gold Ihre-ad. Of coarse ,
a back can be given of some Inexpensive
stuff , and tbe whole finished by a gilt cord of
medium thickness. Yet any tint can be employed - '
ployed In the r = : kiac of pillows ; In cither
Katin r silk , and s. trcalmeat given on the
eame line of lace eJU-ct * . and produce artistic
re-suits.
Although Jewel work his no longer a promInence -
Inence in embroideries , jet It holds Its own
with a man-clous tenacity , and cj an addi
tion tbe edges are now made with more than
\ M < , - < ji j - P7 > . \ . w
W M iS
Wf
SASHES OF BATISTE SILK. AND CHIFFON.
under the shadow of the Sierra Madre mountain - !
tain ? .
It was my privilege to fisit Mrs. Fremont -
mont in her lovely home at Lts Angeleo
Ihis summer , and to bear from her own
llpa some of the Incidents which have en
riched her life. Although Mrs. Framont
has occupied prominent petitions all her
< lsy ? , and is known through her publlcit'osr.
yet she has been so retiring thst compara
tively few people ere familUr with the events
of her later life.
"If you knew. " said Mrs. Fremont , "tow-
often I am oblieed to refuse unknown inter
views you would cot be surprised that I
avoid publicity. '
"The impreo-on ! has gone out tbat I de
cline to see them on account of 'feebleness. '
which forlucalely is not true. It is because
I do not wtnt my prh ne life open.
' A man came nho asserted hi ? right to
an interview on the ground that bis mother.
in-law naired me at my birth in St. Loua ! ,
for their favorite clergyman , when the truth
is. mine is c family rame , and 1 WES born
at my grandfather's house in Virginia. "
But Mits Fremont , the devoted daughter ,
stands like t well of adamant between hei
mother asd merely curious people , and I :
is only bj special grace snd favor thit this
insigat into tbe circle of the come it
granted. The imerv.ew Jrcm first to lie !
was txirenely feliclloas. Mrs . Fremont WAS
la her meet gracious and communicative
mood , and her intellect was clear tnd ccm-
prebeniive. Words came readily , some
times eloquently , ts though her heart wouk
gladly pour out its best treasure. Hei
1 iirored women who are "bofti : o give sorM
pleasure. She has zn'ea * * and gjare off
manner that put one sf'taeir best when In
'ie.society. ' . " ' ' '
! In tbe ccurse of this interview she rt-
I marked- have not lived for cny 'dci.gn or
' purpose ' but just for home , and to be hap y.
I My fitber and my husband Usd the intellect
! and purpos-e. and I have gone tlang in tht
vrske of their big ships. When Admiral Porter
ter WES ! a ccmmsnd of the wejtern river
Cet. he tsd the gunbcat Beaten for bis
fiitship. and he named his leader for me
i for , he- said : 'You have always sailed close
to your father aad your tusbsnd. ' snd so
1 hive , and now oa me has fallea their man
tle , aa inheiitsnce of Ihe gcod will of oar
I people.
I " 1 h.ive no feeling that i provincial. 1
| belong to tie who ! = country , but in Califar-
j cia I will end my days , because of the warm
liemembrince here of the general , and the
ikind friends who have ga.herea around me.
, teething and llfeglviog as ili climate itself. "
j The beautiful home where Mrs , Fremont
j now resides was presented to her by the la-
1 dies cf Lis Angeles as a token of their
' tender regard. Congrers , clso. in recognition
of General Fremont's valued services granted
i her a pension of $2.KK a year. All the jear
j around the house is a veritable bswer of
bloom , and as she sits co tne heliotrope-
shsped veranda the perfum from that and
rose and violet and orange blcsoms eavelop
her like a cloud of incense.
AnJ there , loving and beloved , having
li\ed beyond the time allotted to humanity ,
> et with a miad unimpslred. Mrs Fremont.
i )
MRS JESSIE BENTON FREMONT AND HER CALIFORNIA HOME.
with tweet serenity , awstts * tbe opectng of
the beautiful door that sonrf ) glad day will
usher her Into life ,
iijvrs Aiiot'T nujiuninniiv.
I'opulnrlly of While. , ml Green
This e titan the fashionable piazza work Is
the chafing dlib set. a pre y affair in five
ple-ce-s , coe bis doyley and four smaller ones.
In form they are generally ronad and of ex
cellent size. They can befringed on the
edges or done In a deep scallap. firmly button.
holed , tjf preferred , with cream-colored Romaa
flats , and made ornamental by tbe groaplns
of any summer flower In gay hue * , such ts
the nasturtium , whoie tbade < of color are
most applicable for tbls scheme. Anath'r
pretty idea is blossom * , with their emblemt
Jichly worked in dark * ilks , with n
elaborate edge of circles in various jlz&i.
Flower effects for the summer are treated
like a border , leaving tbe center plain for
the placing of diibe and tbe like.
Anolher tet equally charming Is the
miniature bay aad girl daaeing- minuet.
These little men and women act finely la
different costumes , come in tbe dress of Louis
XIV , s me in tbe attire of Mane Antoinette.
other * are costumed like the cavalier , Tbu
design is entirely new and very picturesque ,
a fancy ball oa linen.
ErabroideriH cf today ere lUBptuoci is
usual brilliancyAs an example there is
lice in a narrow buttonhole. Then a deep
artis-ic curve , a lar e circle evenly uone in
the Janie etitch and at regular intervals a
rmaller circle , and combined with that is the
Jewel work in the colors cJ the cpal md
amethyst An edge of this kind admits but
o' little border , but if one is desired , then
the -one blossom with trailing green s.tem
should be in white , which will not conflict
with tbe tints already given. Embroider } *
should be like palntlcg , a harmony should
be preserved al all hazards.
The gingham pillow belosg * to the piazza.
So great was it * popularity that it was only
at ore store that these blsr patterns in fresh
looking lounge plllowa could be purchtsed
ready to be worked aad made up. A little
later the smaller plaid In blue , green , yellow
ind violet came into fashion. Tbe.n later
on a first-class linen house Imported a plaid
of immense tire and the yellow and white
became the craze , with silks to match and a
ruffling on hand for the enterprising em-
broiiirer for summer work. Now to artists
of the needle who fully understand the lights
and shades cf beautiful tints tbe La France
rose this eeason is the one used oa can-ing
c'otho. tea trays , center bits asd tbe like
Every petal ! * well painted by the silk true
to nature , the leaves folded as in their fresh
ness before gathered from the bueb. How
ever desirable the pink ro e may be. for
room decorations , for tiWe aoornments noth
ing surpasses tbe tints of white and greeo.
They go with aay china , suit all accessories
and are &a ornamestitioa not to be excelled.
It is tbe purity in white that for all boards
i ? a , lasting oae , a decoration that cever
fails.
COI.O.NEL MLLIK ELV.
Tlic Sontlirrn IlrniilxVlio IN on Gov-
rrnor 1'iij lor'fc SlnfT.
In the absence of any constitutional pro
hibition in tbelr respective states. Governor
Atkinson of Georgia aad Governor Robert
L , Taj lor of Tennessee , have seen fit lo ap-
polnl ladies oa their staffs , with the com
missions of colonel.
Thase partial qualities and those soldierly
Instinct wh.ch John d'Arc developed on tbe
field are not looked for nor expecled from
ihcse } oung women. They are not asked to
buckle on armor and go forth seeking whom
they may devour. Their comlmsslocs were
Graceful recognition of the fact that "Peace
bath her victories no less renowned than
war. "
Tbe fair colonel from Tesnesiee Is a typ
ical representative of an Illustrious lineage.
Colonel Nellie Ely springs from a family tbat
has contributed to tbe history of two states.
Her antecedent. Governor Isaac Shelby ,
enjoyed the unique distinction of having
been tbe first governor of Kentucky and
the subsequent governor of tbe later sister
commonwealth of Tennessee. She comes of
a race of beautiful womca. Her mother was
Mits Ruth Whltelde of SbelbyviHe. Tenn. ,
who was noted In her day for being one
of tbe south' * mos > t beautiful and cultured
women.
An aunt of Colonel Ely was the famous
southern beauty. Miss Maggie Whit -slde.
cow Mrs Judge Bearden , whose fame as a
belle was co-extensive with the south in
aate-bellum days. Another aunt of this
gifted and accomplished officer was Mrs
James Mather , who U well remembered lo
New York society.
Colonei Ely bas been the leading spirit In
tbe chief military functions of this state
since her debut. She received tbe best edu
cational dvantares and supplemented them
by cloie application to tbe finer arts.
She has been a social favorite wherever
her presence has been feltAt Richmond ,
Va. , at Dallas , Tex. , at St. Louis and other
points all who have come within the radius
of her influence have succumbed to her won
derfully fascinating personality.
Governor Taylor ba < known her since child
hood. 'Warm friendship has exlited between
the governor aad the colonel's father , Mr.
Jesse Ely , for years. Her appolatment Is
perhaps due in some measure to-lhls friend
ship , but chiefly to the social triumph she
achieved on tbe occasion of the late reunion
ball , when , aa rice president of the club ,
the devoted all her energies to ita success ,
She wore neither Jewelry or flowers upon this
occasion , bat appeared in a plain gown of
red iatia. Her beauty , however , with her
native refinement aad modesty of demeanor ,
made faer conspicuous when least ebe sought
to be. It - ii on this occasion tbat Gov
ernor Taylor announced Us tntentioa of
comoiulocicg her a colonel.
Ehe 1s a brunette of medium stature. la
bsr tvtry xaoremect there i a. cra.ce , a&d ia
every glance of hsr large br.UIant eve * th're
U that peculiar charm * noted IB th * south-
era type.
rViiiinliiv N..J1-K.
Tbt wife of Senator SUwart av ws her
latestlo * of cbiprol g a party to tbe Alu.
kaa gold CeMi next sprlnc.
Joba HopkiM ualrrrtlty this year be-
ctpwH tbe degrt-e of M > . * pe * < * woman.
Ml * Mary Packard of Bayonrr. X J.
Mis * Helen Gladstone will undertake tbe
opening ceremocy la ec-narctlon wltli tbe
hotel fi.wamtA t'.uiesle vhlth ha btts
erected at Uia or. near Belfast , Ireland.
Miss Mary Howe , wko was raort accept
ably It Boston durtag the pat year , wilt
sing at tbe Church of the Epiphany. Walnut
hills , during tbe summer month * . She is one
pf the mcs. talented of Ciaelnaati vocal-
Set * .
Queen Victoria has ca&ferred tao decora
tion of the Royal IUd Cro * upa Sister
LcrSes IVi'.iss Tal'.cb sf ' . = ? vsnay aumry
service. In rer p ltloti of her errtces ( In at-
leading tbe sick tad wouadcd In Bgvpt from
1S54 to ISM.
M'-s * Sadie l.ipmaa. formerly &f Cincin
nati , but now of Philadelphia. ! a ttalaed
nurse la one of the laret bctpltil ? there. A
deep sorrow fell upon her life and she Ufi
her old home aad recently entered upon ( her
professional nurse career. 6he i ! a bright ,
attractive youag Jewess.
1 Mrs , Warrea Xeal cf Neal , Mich , > a re-
tKiiy bees ir5 : = "i irprty csrsrrfits
or Graad Travcrre couaty. Mrs. Neal has
done active work la promoting the protec-
Ion of gatae sad fish and Is described as *
bright , plucky , attrictlve little womaa , full
of good sense aad eaergy.
Mrs. Mary Huat of Porkupoag. Me. , though
a. ? t rs 01 age , aoes an tne Dununp. norm ! ;
ind harvesting on her place , take ? tare of
ler cows , cultivates a flower pardea and at
tends to a.fruit orchard. Last year she
shingled the roof of her houte aad painted
the house without Assistance.
Queen Adelaide , widow of Dam Mlcutl ,
king of Portucal. has takes the vows it the
cement of the Benedictines at Solemes.
FVance. after having paMed throuch a no
vitiate of one jear'f duration. Queen Ade
laide wts l-o'c in Francoaj oa Ihe 3d of
April. 1SJ1. lad ws married In 1S51 to King
Mlcupl. She Is the mother of seven children.
Miss Helen Wilder , one of the most popu-
ar young women la society In Honolulu.
ias recelve-d a commission a * a humane offi
cer from the attorney general as a recogni
tion of her perseverance In relieving the
sufferings of dumb animals. Miss Wilder
s the first woman who has held this posi
tion in the Hawaiian Islands.
Three of the incM popular women lectur
ers those who give jtleasanl drawlnc room
: lks are Mrs. Sangstcr. Miss KepplUr and
Kate Upson Clarke. These three women
are all prominent as literary workers and
In their lectures have great charm of man
ner , combined with a very general knowl
edge of social and political events of the
present.
Hu King Enp. a young Chinese woman
who studied medicine in this country , taking
: bt > degree- M. D. , is now In charge of the
SUne-Hu hospital at Foo-rbow. and a story
s told of a coolie who wheeled his blind old
mother 1.009 miles on a barrow to take her
10 the woman doctor. A double operation
for cataract was , the result , and the old
woman can see ai well it ever.
Mile. Lucle Faure. the daughter of the
president of the French republic. Is most
lecidedly religious in her propensities.
Matins , mass and vespers are never missed
t > y her , though her gentle grace never
aroused the ire of modern atheistic Paris.
At La Haiae , where her father loves to take
iiis holiday , mademoiselle is veil known aad
well beloved.
In a recent voting- contest Inaugurated by
the periodical Womankind the ten women re
ceiving votes entitling them to the highest
plates of honor ia America , were , in the or
der named- Harriet Beecher Stow * ? . Fran
ces E. Wlllard. Martha Washington , Clara
Uarron. Susan B. Anthony. Pocahontas , Mollie -
lie Pncber , Elizabeth Cady Stactoa , Louisa
May Alcott and Julii Ward Howe.
j nes minister , is tald to be possessed of a
Washington s-he laid aside her gorgeous
i-llkea flowered robes , and Is now rarely
seen In her native costume. She Is four
feet tea Inches la height , with abundant
dark hair , soft brown eves sod clear , rosy
complexion. She studied English with a
tulor and proved herself an apl pupil.
In Ihe Indiart village oa the banks of the
Minnesota river , about one mile downstream
from "the city of Shakopee. lives a band of
BLUE FOl'LARD WJTH GREEN CHIFFON
SASH
Dakota Indians who till tbe coll. make bowe
and arrows and moccasins , and trade with
the neighboring farmers Among the vil
lagers are some interesting women , one of
them being Mrs. Otberday , tbe sister of
Shakopee cf Little Six , one of the most
noted chiefs of tbe Sioux nation. The women
of tbe Shakopee colony assist In tbe farm
ing and make beautiful beadwork. which
they s-ell al Ibe summer resorl hotels. Mrs.
Otberday is a strong , well preserved , elderly
woman , much looked up to by her own
people and her white neighbors.
Tbe duchess of Marlborougb has a new car
riage , -which COK a good IL.COO of VandtrMlt
money. Tbe new coach IE described as being
of de-ep red. adorned with a ducal crown and
coat of arms and a princely coronet The
supports of Ihe carriage are red-mounted
tllier serpents , with t liver ornaments on
liveries. Three footmen behind and two
coachmen In froat. all in gorgeous livery ,
kept the young Coasuelo sufficiently In
terested In her position when tbe diKsovered
tbat she- outshone all her companions while
standing in lice waiting for an opportunity
to alight to attend tbe queen' * last drawing
room. <
Mils Virginia Fair bis until the present
season been regarded tfi tbe most grace
ful acd expert of tbe youag womea bicycle
riders at Newport , but now her claim lo
tbat honor is contested by Mlu Evelyn
Burden. List Wednesday itlse Burden was
covering tbe ocean drive al a fait pace on
her wheel and near Benlon'c Point pitted
Mr. Llspecard Stewart , who was driving
behind one of MB smart paters. For tbe
cext mile there was a lively brucb between
wheel and horse , which resulted la a victory
for tbe fair cyclist. The time made by Ulu
Burden was much faster than that made
at tbe famous contest between Mrs. Heary
Clews and MUs Fair.
Floreace Nlghlingale Is oae of the bett-
lored women la Englacd. She receatly
parsed her 77th birthday ia her quiet home
In the west of London , where she ba been
aa invalid for thirty years. In tp.te of
physical suffering tbat has oftea beta painfully -
fully acute , this "heroise of the Crimea"
ttlil keeps In touch with the training of tbe
profettlozal cum * and modern boiplUl
Tfi > French toliltr * cUltd her tbe
f il-p " ' - vr # arl di-iinp tb
w er ct 1M wiur Ihe * uS r rps of the
Knjtlich t 'Idler * were so hsr'tb'e she was
a ra'cister ' ng stint of mey a"i sympathy.
aMUttd .n ber wrrk of heal.BK by lairty-
fo r iralatd nurse * Mits Nlfthtincal * v *
bora 0 % May 1. U , ard she spent her Ctrl-
bood nursing Aratw In Egypt aad the pa-
tlfnto In tbe London hospitals. The GnRUsh
govem et gave her ttW.WO. which the
evtd IB ejtat''l hnR ! the Tralalac SeboM tor
Nurs s is LcsJos.
IVtnlnlnr t'nutilono.
Handkerchiefs ce-xt iccoa will be gaudier
than ever before.
White , blue and pink silk btouccs are al-
wavs eValatv. They are new made to poach
a IKtKe over * narrow belt or satb.
Stout , snort-wattled women b ve quits
made up their Minds tbat the short , grace
ful teo&ls or ejcling corset Is a bora for
teem for constant wear.
The- silk nautilus so much In reruere
very filmy and lovely as well varied.
Some embroidered In all over Jar * pat
tern and are elaborately trimmed with lace
Insert ton.
Atnonc tbe myriad of comfortable thing *
far the Fummor ctr ) is tne Improved summer
corset e-f st'k net , with soft , elastic gore * ,
limply \ied ed with feathrrtltcblag in illk
floss.
floss.Delicate
Delicate tones of all colors will be In
vogue , a reaction which alwajs follows the
use of vivid colors , which have been ro
much seen this summer. Be-lge. tin , rjxt = r
and gray number among tbe papular shades.
Ornaments end combs that nil ) be much
won by widows with blaad halt have tops
of polished Jets , cut so as to Five the great
est passible sparkle They were originally
dcsicned for white or rray hair , but blond-
DRAPED BELT TOR BRIDAL , GOWK.
headed beauty , recognizing their effective
ness , bae appropriated them.
This is tbe season of remnants and the
prudent woman IE providing herfelf with odd
bits of everything , not only for Immedla't
use , but for the coming season. Odd lengths
of various materials are being converted inta
summer blouse * , which h s given the useful
carments a new lease of life.
A novelty for 'h writing desk Is an Ink
veil fashioned after tbe stvle of tbe old
oaken bucket. 11 swings from gilt chains
over a wide extended base , which furnishes
tne pen reftA dainty new mit staaa 15 a
little psreclsln castle overrun with mistle-
Hits will present the great variety of
shape , color and trimming- that bat been the
style for several seasons , and no marked
change Is as yet predicted : becomlagnees te
the main thing after suitability. Autumn
may mark a change of note , but 6 yet
the fale-s are silent.
A handsome imported Jacket Is made of
box cloth. Knowing a white sailor collar and
revere. The model is opea-fronled and ex
tremely short. Tbe jacket Is a pair shade
of cream , and is called the Redfern beach
Jacket , and other models are in pele green ,
mauve , tas. sage gray , silver gray , aed also
deep currant red.
New and beautiful salln foulards of deli
cate quality and gay coloring are raeds
into stylish costumes with pointed bodice
and Marie Antoinette fichu of tbe foulard.
with scarf ends that either fall on the skirt
front or tje at the back. Tbe eeven-gored
skirts are trimmed Kith carrow triple ruche *
or frill ; of tbe fabric eel on about ten inches
apart.
A very choice as well as most useful mora-
ing drefts for out-of-town wear is of white
terge trimmed with coarse white braid * ,
with very narrow gilt braid to brad it. It
is worn with either a scarlet or a while
silk s-hirt. The front of the shirt ohould be
fastened with gold study , aod Ibe belt fin
ished with a gilt buckle. Tie cott should
be lined and faced wiib white silk , edged
wilh the two braids and fastened with flit
buttons.
There was a quaint Idea In he.iddres.rinK
at a dinner given In Paris recently. Each
woman present wore a represtnmtlon of a.
certain dish. One headdress wa ? In cauli
flower shape : others v.ere la ( be form of a
lobster , a salmon , a pheasant , a pate de
foie gras and various kinds of fruit. The ,
serving was from small tables , where oaljr
one kind of fcol was { presented , and the
dinners changed table ? throughout the re-
Dan , in rttematic crogreislon.
Embroidered frocks are worn upon all oc
casions , and they are exquisite in design
and texture A chic creation is of cream
white tulle de sole , built over a cream
plaited underskirt. Tbe tulle Is embroid
ered with carlaudf of delicate purple vlolrti.
Tbe carlande ripe at intervals arqund the
fklrt from hem to naltt : the front width U
entirely covered with embroidery , which is
framed on bath sides by a cbell plaiting of
rich lac which forms tabllers.
The new tide combs for nexl Karon's wear
come In sets of three and four. The mott
ptylith are hinged together. In tets of
four , one comb goes above tbe knoLtme be
low tbe knot , and one on either side. In
sets of three , at a rule , tbe middle comb H
to be used above tbe knot , and U tbo least
bit higher nd more ornate than tbe two
side combs. Where the four are hinged to
gether tbe tendency teems to be to hare
them all alike , differing only in length aod
curve.
DR. EDW , E. HALE
Trll of a I'onltlir .SpcdAc far \crr
out Dlnrnnrk.
Edward Everett Hale , D. D. , L. U. D. , the ,
celebrated New England Preacher , Author
and Pbflanlbr&piJl. writes.
"I am awured by a careful inquiry among
leading pbilclans and personal frleadi who
have uct-d It acd in whoa I have the ulmoal
confidence , that Dr Charcot'i Kola Nervine
Tablets are Invaluable in ico&mnla and all
cervous dlfctteei. "
Fifty eenu and ( I per box. Write for
testimonial * of cure * . Eureka , CteinlcU 4
Mfg. Co. , La Croue , WU.