10 THE OMATTA DAILY ( IVEEt SUNDAY , AUGUST 1. KS97.
I IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. ! i-
IllVl'S AIIOUT I'.U.I , STVI.HS.
SlnititlrUy 11" ' ltul < - _
XiTill 'U irU fill Clutlirm.
1'ARIS , July 20. Once It pleased n great
quern to dress an o dairy maid , anil posterity
remembers her better for tliU travesty tban
perhaps for anything else she did. It in a
success that may well Inspire the dress ama-
tcura otico In a generation or : o , and they
linve certainly bethought themselves of It
this year. For-simplicity Is now the fashion ,
nnd rtifltlc cfftbts arc the lop notch of chin.
Muslin gowns , hemmed and tucked , nnd
tied bchlud with a eash with long ends , arc
bolng worn by the most elegant women in
France. It U delightfully naive. Ono Is ic-
mlnded of Mary Smith and Jane Davis cnmo
Into Jonesvlllo to see tlio circus. I'oanuts ,
pirate , and pink lemonade.
Homebody iiHkcd M. Doucet how nil this
caino about , and here Is what ho oracularly
said : The fashions arc Hum because IIcy
were not n last year , and they will be other
wise In autumn , because they are thus now
nnd M , Doucel Is one uf the seven sages of
Paris.
The reader may invel this enigma to cult
herself ; the plain fact remains. A ieat ;
many white muslins arc worn , and the col
ored muslins arc In such simple tints as i.ro
to bo found at the village store , A strawberry -
berry red gingham , tied with a white mpli ,
makes a fAshlonablc dress. This dress may
1)0 tucked or milled , or have some Insertions
of cluny lacp , but the trimming must not Im
pose ; thcro must remain always the simple
contrast of the strawberry red gown and thn
big will to sash.
UUSTIC AND SIMPLE.
It Is the general effect only that must rig
orously lie rustic and simple ; the making
may bo au difficult as you please. As I have
said In a former letter , the material may bo
tucked anil applliiued , and otherwise needle-
worked as though It weru trourscau under
wear. Thus a gown , being worn by the
duchess d'Uzcs la certainly of white muslin
Hod with a Bash , hut the skirt Is In two over
lapping parts , each one tucked vertically ,
with the lower part of each left loose to form
a flounce. The Mouse Is Incrustcd with lace ,
the sa.sh of yellow crape ends In fringe , and
the neckband of yellow satin Is appllqued
over with lace. A whllo organdie just made
for Mrno. Achllle FoulJ , wife of the rich
banker , la trimmed with ruches of whits
tullo. This trimming In a novelty , and Is
used on hats us well as on gowns. The
ruche In box plaited and full , and measures
about three Inches acrora.
Hut plain or elaborated the general 'lilci
Is the same , and there. Is just as much style
In a tucked gown as In an embroidered one ,
If It conforms to the type.
iJoro costly gowns are of black rhantllly
lace over white faille or over a color. Very
pretty gowns are made also of black tulle.
Ono being worn by the Baroness do Barye , of
black tulle over rose , Is trimmed with nar
row black satin ribbon. The skirt lias clus
ters of rows at Intervals all the way up the
skirt , and the blouse la made to correspond ,
As a novelty may lie cited a gown made
for the Baroness do Krlcourt , of Iron-gray
corded grenadine trimmed with gold galloon.
Tlio color tendencies noticed In my last
letter are confirmed ; It Is the primary tints
that have moat vogue. Yellow Is much worn ,
and elegance 'in this direction Is exemplified
In a gown of yellow foulard printed with
white palm leaves , with a yellow hat trimmed
with white and black plumes and a white
gauze parasol with yellow stick.
All tho. materials and the forms nnd colors
above mentioned may bo relied upon as sug
gestions for evening drcba when cool weather
comes. For the first evening gowns are aU
ways a modification of summer dress , and
when M. Doucet said that things would
change in the autumn ho was speaking liy-
perbollcally , merely to round out his enig
matic speech. Tin- fashion may go steady by
jerks , but It follows the high road all the
same.
YACHTING COSTUME ,
For elegance in this sort of dress there
are certain conditions that remain always
the same. The materials must stand wear ,
and there should be simplicity and charac
ter In the forms. The problem Is special.
The materials being used are English
woolo , serges , homespuns and twilled Han-
nels. A good many costumes are all white ,
a good many are In fine checks , and I have
seen at a great dressmaker's a masterpiece
In chocolate trimmed with white braid.
The costume may be made with a blouse
or a jacket. The blouse droops rather low
over the belt all round ; it Is open down
the front , over a plastron , and has large
square revcrs and a standing collar. This
blouse may be tucked or trimmed with
braid. One In chocolate has a plastron of
white flannel and the rovers and collar
faced with white flannel. It Is covered all
over with narrow white braid in lines run
ning round , the lines looped at Intervals.
The loops coming one under the other , form
a pattern running up and down. The same
pattern In the same white braid runs over
CHOCKED WOOU
11 the white llnnnel. The ulcevo U braided
to match on tun upper part , and there la it
turu-ovcr cuff of white flannel. A llttlo
basque slashed at Intervals U braided to
match , and the skirt U left plain.
Among the Jackela a good many are made
with fitted back and loom front. If the
front la double-breasted U la finished down
both aides alike , to give a plastron effect.
Thus a brown am ] while-checked jacket has
K wide band of brown ribbon stitched down
each side and the ribbon la striped with nar
row white braid , The outside of the stand
ing collar Is of plain brown , striped with
white , aud the same striped trimming borden -
den aquaro epaulettea and the foot of the
akirt. U'lilto aalln faces the collar and line *
the Jacket throughout , and when the fronts
are opened and turned back there 1 * an
effect of long white revert. The bloush
furnished with this handsome costume Is of
brown and white plaid lawn ,
A model In white aerge has a loose jacket
retching below ( he bait ; It U open in front
And under each edge U set u short bolero
front. The outside jickrt hai a standing
collar that Us res aud the Uiildu one has a
Rtandlng military collar. The sleeve has an
epaulette- and the whole U braided with
white. Illouso of yellow nllk. A blue serge
Is made with a bolero some three Inches
shorter than the wilst. cut straight round ,
and on the edge arc loops of black braid
sewed clwe together and falling long enough
to carry the jacket to the bottom of tha
watat. Square cpiuitcttcs arc trimmed with
the same loops.
SEA VOYAQH COSTUME.
An elegant costume just made for a sea
voyage of fine checked brown and black
homoapun has a jacket loose and belted behind -
hind and loose and double-breasted In front ,
they nhould become more Importable for
girls. This may sound hard and severe , but
youns ; girls rrual remember that a woman's
years are her protection , whereas a girl's
lack of years Is her danger. The very aim
and purpcee of the present tendency for
woman's gleatcr freedom will be defeated If
wp allow It to guide the actions of our
glrU. The danger to Immaturity always be
comes greater as the danger to maturity
grow a less. This we should never overlook. II
Is a blerned change that things arc safely pos
Bible to women which were absolutely Im
possible a few years ago. Hut progress ta
dangerous at well rs healthful. If parentn
Interpret the prcsent changing conditions by
point of the ro ttor-j the great desideratum
If a lithe , gracAful gait Is to bo cultivated.
r.i.i.Aiir.Tii"HATmovr UUAKKHKSS.
-
llpr ( innil D'frttlf nml StrniiKP Cimrt-
xlil | > tWtlip \ < MV Worlil.
Antedating tne > Ui4lnnlng of the eighteenth
century a few years there was born of
Quaker parentage' jn ( the city of London n
bright-eyed lltUej Infant. As the years went
by Time , as old ; Time sometimes docs , cvo-
hi ted the Infarif ! Into a woman. It Is of that
woman and hef'g66a ' deeds In general deeds
which the busy , historian of her day almost
Ignored and her strange courtship In par
ticular that the Writer would pck.
Looking back -now through the ill mined
pant of colonial times It would be dlfllcult to
decide whether It was as a pioneer , a phy
sician or as a philanthropist that Elizabeth
Haddon excelled. DC that as It may , true
womanly graclouauess shlnos resplendent from
her crown of human achievement , As a girl
fiho was not handsome , but It Is chtnnlcled
that there was something extremely pleasing
In her fresh complexion and her bright , In
telligent expression , and It was often re
marked by friends of the family that slin
wan "a very peculiar child. "
When she was 5 or 6 years old William
'
Penn visited lien father' house and described
some of his adventures. , ; ! ! ! the jjreat
of North Amariw osnd with , , the ;
From that tltnolhcr-dolY was named Uoc\- ;
hontas and she swung her kltttn in .1 bit o't
leather and called , It , n pappoose.
As she grew older she often spoke. . of the
freedom of life away from cities and alone
with nature. Perhaps licr Influence moie
than anything else induced her father to pur
chase a tract of land In New Jersey , with a
view of moving to the new world. Circum
stances prevented his departure , but Elizabeth - i
beth set out for the colonies In the spring
of 1700. A poor widow accompanied her us a
friend and housekeeper and two trusty men
servants , members ot the Society of Friends ,
also went along. The house prepared for
lipr reception stood in the middle ot the
fo'rest , several mllea from any other dwell
ing , but Elizabeth found too much to dote
to get lonely.
The neighboring Indians soon loved her
as a friend , for they found her alway.3 truth
ful , just and kind , and from her teachings
they learned much of simple medicines. So
efficient waa her skill and ao prompt was
her sympathy that ) for many miles around If
man , woman or child were seriously 111 they
were sure to send for Elizabeth Iladdon.
And wherever she" went her observing mind
gathered some new hint for the improve
ment of dairy or farm. Her house and her
heart were both large , and as her residence
was on the way to the Quaker meeting house
In New town It soon became a place of great
popularity to Friends from all parts of the
tered Into with all sobriety , Thou art to
leave this part ot the country tomorrow , and
rot knowing when I should see thce again ,
John , I felt moved to tell thee what lay upon
my mind. "
In October they were married. They lived
happily together nearly forty years , during
which time Elizabeth became famous the
country over as a teicher , doctor and
philanthropist , She made three long , tedi
ous Journeys across the ocean In the slow
sailing ships of the period to visit her aged
parents. In the meantime a town grow' up
around her settlement , and ns a mark of
deserving respect and honor It waa names'
Haddonflcld. Today It Is one ot the prci
tlftU towns In all south Jersey.
oiccn.i : CIIHMI.\AI > I : .
. \Voinnn C"oiniiinrr of limlo Who
Hun Ai'lilcvi-d DUiliictlon.
The mmUst name , C. Chemlnade , appears
on almost every program. School girls In
every part of the country are familiar with
It. At this moment conventions are discuss
ing and newspapers arc asserting woman's
Inability to write music. Yet the most popu
lar rompracr today Is C. Chemlnade , and C.
Chemlnade Is a woman ,
Cecllo Chemlnade was born In Paris In ISflt
THE CENTER' OF GRAVITY
to carry nld through the next month. Slip
hopro that before that period ha * expired
more money will bo raised and the work
continued.
Miss llotnford has exerted ticrpc-lf to con-
< e-al her connection with the work , prefer
ring that no publicity bo given to her phil
anthropic efforts. So carefully has eho
guarded her secret that , though she has
been working on her project for more than
a week , It was not until yesterday that her
name waa revealed. During the tlmo re
quired to raise the money U wan known
that "a prominent young wonun" was the
promoter of the scheme. Nothing more
could be learned ot her.
Miss llotsford I si the daughter of Mr. and
Mrs. II. 11. Hotsford of 2100 Calumet nvcnuo
and Is a society favorite. Since her debut
several seasons ago she h.i won many
friends , and Is known ns one of the most
beautiful girls on the south side. She Is a
nlpoo of Charles Schwartz , one of Chicago's
grenic. ' ! beaust. In Interesting herself for the
good of these who are Injured or otherwise
disabled Ml."s Holstord tic a disclosed a new
phase of character end her friends nrc oven
prouder of lur than they were before.
The city has two ambulances at the Isola
tion hospital and six at various police Bin-
lions. Four of these being supplied with
SOME KREHCH OUTW-DOOU COSTUMES.
the belt passing under In the arm eoams. It
has a large hood that covers the shoulders
and can be drawn over the head. The sleeve
has a turnover cuff that stands out from the
wrist and In its neglige effect socms to be
related to the hood. This gown is finished
with stltchlngs , and the hood is unVlned.
The same jacket without the hood will be
used- for fall street gowns.
All the skirts of heavy wool have been
cut down to nearly half the width they had
last year. Two and a quarter yards Is not
thought too narrow , particularly if braid is
to bo used.
The blouses for wear with these costumes ,
whether of cotton or silk , are very simply
made. They are tucked up and down , and
box plaits have come Melt Into use. They
are fastened down the front with a cluster
ot rutllcs that do not lie flat , but stand
straight out from the waist. The neck Is
finished with a turndown linen collar and a
tie. The tie is of Scotch plaid silk , or It
may be of tulle.
Sailor hats are worn with these- wool
gowns , ot yellow straw trimmed with black
velvet and wings , with possibly uome popples
and bachelor buttons , ' or some wheat.
CHILDREN'S DRESS.
The fashion of accordion plaits has been
seized on for children and the greater num
ber of gowns not washable are thus made.
Soft liberty silks have the blouse and skirt
both plaited and are tied with a sash of the
same silk with long ends. The gown will
bo of yellow silk , with white sash , or of
pnlmleaf print with sash of blue. These
effects , so delightfully simple , make the suc
cess of the season In children's wear.
As variety , another Idea utilized for chll-
diea Is the Marie Antoinette fichu. This
fichu Is made of white organdy , with ruffles
trimmed with narrow black velvet ribbon ,
and Is worn with colored ellk or muslin gowns
for Oancing school or paity dress.
The cotton gowns are needlework , after
the manner of those for adulu. They have
tucks and insertions running In all directions
und crisscross , and the degree of this
elaboration depends only on the time or
money one wishes to spend. Morning gowns
are simple enough. One of brown gingham
for a girl ot 12 has the skirt and blouse
covered with wide tucks running round. A
belt of green satin ribbon is 'finished ' with a
roacttn on the right Hide , and a rosette and
long end on the left sldo tha front. It la
a bclt-llnlsh , much used for children.
The first school gowns will be made In
blue and green Scotch plaids trimmed with
nairow blue satin or velvet ribbon , A model
has rows of velvet round the bottom In
graduated widths , and a box plaited blouse ,
with Kjuaro epaulettes covering the eroulders ,
trimmed to match thenklrt. Autumn jackets
for girls over 10 will be cut with double
breasted square front and loose belted back ,
Ilko that described above for adultu. They
will make also box plaited bloufles of colored
velveteen for wear with plaid wool or srurali
skirts. The skirt It trimmed will have rows of
velvet ribbon to match the blou.ie ,
I.lttlo girls' hats for autumn will have
wide brims of shirred velvet. The trimming
Is nil maosjd on the front , and la simply
a ribbon tied with largo loops , to which la
added when elaboration Is wnnted an ostrich
feather that stands straight up In front.
ADA CONE.
YOH.W ! niltl.'S M11KUTV.
Ycnm Art * 11 WOIIIIIII'H 1'rofrctlnu , nnil
Vnulli IN u Tlnif iif Duiincr.
The liberty and freedom of actlom al
lowed young girls of today In the subject ot
a forcible editorial In the Ladles1 Homo
Journal. "That everything in life Is tend
ing to make people freer In thought and
action Is urdcubtcdly true , and Is a health
ful tendency In the main healthful for
people of years and self-control , " writes the
editor. "Hut no advantage Is without Its
disadvantages. The freer our lives become
along healthful and safe linen the healthier
will our minds become. Hut before wo can
safely profit by three advantages we must
liavo lived locg enough to know how to use
tnem and to underutand what phases Ot
them to disregard. Because women are
freer to travel alone than ever before It
doea not necwasarlly follow that It la wUo
and right that young girls should be per
mitted to travel alone. Here coniia tbo
truili of the proverb , that 'what's one man's
poison is another's meat. ' The time ww
when a woman could not. with self-respect ,
go to a place of entertainment unattended.
Now she ean , Hut that doca not make It
right for a girl to do so. The chaperon is
none the Una Indispensable to girls today
than ahe was thlity years ago. She Is
really moru necessary , for , aa things be
come more ud more possible for women ,
allowing greater"freedom to their daughters
they will make a very sad mistake. "
l. I'Ol.SH OF TliU ItOllV. '
How to Acit'iitrc It In Six I'oxltIIIIIN ,
Pnltliflllly I'riiHIcril.
T'i ' mu'den who dcfclres abovo.and boycnt'i
all things to acquire phyoical buoyancy and
lithe movements"should give her attention a
moment to her center of gravity. ' > -
This , perhap ? she may not know , should
never be o\er her lieels , but'over'thexballfl
of her feet. WJienone first tries the ex
periment of balancing In the correct way the
sensation Is very much that ot tumbling
over.
over.Hut
Hut ten days later ope exclaims , " .O , I
feel so much lighter and younger than when
my weight rested'on my heels. "
It is indeed the easiest position possible ,
and worth taking some trouble to acquire.
The prellmlt'ary step in learning the art of
true balancing Is to practice heel elevation
or toe-standlug , aa taught by Swedish move
ments.
Exercise 1. Raise the heels quickly from
the ground and stand as high on tiptoe % s
possible , then lower the heels with moder
ate speed , without tipping the weight of
the body backward , To Increase the dltll-
culty of balance , after one has become a lit
tle expert , go through this exercise with the
anna . -aise'l upright.
Exercise 2. Keep the heels on the ground
!
j and 1IU alternately the balls ot the feet and
put them down with a slight pressure ; oni >
1 foot moving up as the other moves down.
' The speed should be about seventy movements -
ments per minute. Care must be taken not
to move the shoulders from aide to sldo a
common fault.
Exciclse 3. Lift the heels , bend the kneea ,
straighten the body , then sink the heels , The
knees must point In the direction of the
feet , and remain bent at right anglra. ThU
Is a true balance movement , to be done with
moderate speed ,
Exercise 4 , Lift the heels , bend the knees ,
again at right angles to the body and nit
down with the body erect ,
Exercise C. Hend the knee , lift the leg
slowly upward and forward until hip and
knee are bent at right angles. The Instep
should bo etretohed fco that the toes point
downward , the It nee pointing sideways , for
ward , Common faults In practicing this ex
ercise are to Incline the body backward , tip
the shoulder to the opposite Bide , and to
bend'tho knee of the leg which holds the
body ,
U must be understood that all these move
ments are to alternate , first with one foot
and. then with the other.
Exercise C , Standing with the hips firm ,
move first the right and then the left foot ,
parallel with Itself , twice Its own length for
ward , and place It ou tlo | ground with a gen
tle pressureon. . the ball of the foot , the
weight of the body being carried equally by
both feet. Tlio movements should be taken
backward as well. ,
These exercises bring Into play all the mus
cles ot the legs as well aa those about the
waist.
Walking on tiptoe Is an excellent balance
movement. The shoulders should be kept
level throughout the exercise , which Is then
one of tbo best means of correcting the habit
of tipping the ehoulden from side to Bide
when walking' In walking on tiptoe ono
Und * on the balU of the feet , which U the
country traveling thnt road , aa well as an
asylum for bcnlBntertrwandercrs.
One winter eVeriltfil the sound of sleigh
bells and crunching 0f 'enow ' was heard In
the yard and two .strangcra entered. To
Elizabeth's greate surprise , In the younger
she recognized Jollu'ii&statigh , whose preach
ing had deeply Jlniilrcused her when but a
child. This wn ialmoBt like a glimpse oft t
home. She stepped forward with more than ,
usual cordiality , uiylns : "Thou art wel
come , friend Estnuglu the more so for be
ing entirely unexpected , " They talked much
of 'England ' that ) nlulxt.
One morning qiiltPiaicavalcado started from
her hospitable dnqr/iipr ( wagonu were then
unknown In NOAY.I Jersey. John Eetaugh ,
kind as usual In/Jilajitmpulsea , busied hlm-
Eelf with helpingUnie , ; ) and very ugly old
woman , and lef ( blu/ioateea ( / to mount as
best she could , Mo t ) young women would
have felt ( slighted.put.not ) eo with Elizabeth.
"Ho 1s always liMlcsf , , to " the poor and un
fortunate , " thought elie"truly ; he IB a good
youth. "
They trotted leisurely along behind the
procession of guests'speaking ot the soil and
climate of the new country , etc. , when sud
denly the girth began * to ellp and the saddle
turned BO much to one side tbat Elizabeth
was compelled to dismount. It took several
minutes to readjust U , and when they again
started the company was out ot eight. Thcro
was & brighter color tban usual 4n tbo maid
en's cheek and an unwonted radiance In her
mild , deep eyte , and after a short alienee
there occurred that which would be consid
ered a breach of etiquette In modern society ,
for In a voice ellghtly tremulous Elizabeth
said :
"Friend John , I have a matter of great Im
portance na my mind , and ono tbat Interests
thee. 1 am strongly Impressed that the
Lord has sent } hct > to me as a partner ( or
life. I tell my Impression frankly , but not
without calm and due reflection , ( or matri
mony la a holy relation , and should be eo-
.
of a family of aallors. Her musical talent
soon asserted itself and at the age ot S
she comjicsed several little tunes having a
religious ? flavor. Hlzet , the composer of "Car
men , " predicted a brilliant future for her
and she studied with several important
Parisian music-bus and composers , unions
whom was ilienjamtn Godaid. At the age of1
IS aho gave her first concert In Paris aud
won enthusiastic praise from Ambrose
Thoma ? . Since then ovtry year has slrength-
euc" her petition among musicians and
critics , a'nd every ? [ > ecles of composition
seems to omo with equal facility from her
pen. Not only' small works , but ambitious
ones , have placed her. name , among the
eloverest and most sympathetic of modern
French composers. "Lea Amazons , " a lyric
symphony tor orchestra and chorus , follows
the form , but not the spirit , of Hector
Berlioz's Romeo and Juliet symphony , "La
Sovlllano" is an opera conilque ; a ballet
called "Calllrhoc , " represented in Lyons and
Marseille ! ] In the early part ot 1SSS , and a
concerto for pianoforte and orchestra arc
among her Important productions. To this
list are added two trios for pianoforte , violin
and vlolincello , many pianoforte compositions
and a number of songs. Every one knows
the pretty "Scarf Dance , " the "Spinning
Wheel" and "Pierrette , " which are constantly
played.
Some critics prefer her pongs to her other
works. She generally selects verse of re
fined and delicate sentiment such as the
poems of Victor Hugo , Armand Sylvester ,
Sully Prnd'homme and Francois Coppce , and
reflects In the crystalline mirror of her music
their splrtuelle and romantic charm.
Chemlnado's music has few mannerism * * , and
her tenderness and sympathy in her art
make her settings to these exquisite lyrics
models of taste and charm , She possesses
a natural tjirt of fluent melody , the
cultivated talent for blending harmonies to
gether , a good sense ot rhythm , and a very
romantic nature. Therefore grace , delicacy
and aesthetic beauties are always apparent
In her works. Her musical manuscript Is
neat and clear , and beautifully written.
Mile. Chcmlnado Is also a virtuoso pianist
of much skill , and she often appears In
London and Paris In concerts , whim she
playu her concert pieces with the orchestra ,
and gives recitals , at which the piogram
consists exclusively of her own works. Her
home is In Paris , and she has a large circle
ot friends , among whom are Included many
Americans.
SJOCIKTV ( Jllll.'S GKI ) WOU 1C.
ItnlKcil a I ' 'ii ml to I3iiil | > the City AIII-
iiiilniit'i'N of CliU-iiiro ,
Through the zeal of Mias 'Bertha ' Botsford
( our of Chicago's iclty ambulances will be
provided with surgeons throughout tbe com
ing month.
Ten days ago , relates the Chicago Chronicle ,
Miss 'Botsford began by securing private sub
scriptions to raise enough money to supply
the medical aid through ( he coming month ,
tbe necessity being emphasized by the recent
spell of extremely hot weather. Defora tbe
end of the present week ( our ambulance
stations will bo supplied with physlclana , who
will accompany tbe ambulances on their
calls. So fir Jtbree Burgeons have been en
gaged.
Although the provision IB ono of which
Chicago U greatly in need , tbo city council
has never done anything toward it.
UotBford baa raited mifflclcnt moner
medical aid will largely Increase the clllcl-
ency of the service. '
The city council will be afrked to appropriate
money next spring to carry on the work for
! IS'JS , and when the appropriation 1)111 Is
[ passed In March this Item will probably be
included. i
KlINllillll \ < ) < < -M.
Snap fastenings are seen on summer gloves
ot chamois and wash leather.
Lace" Insertions are sometimes edged with
veiy tiny ruches in black or white.
Plaintlngs ot white ribbon are an expen
sive but beautiful trimming for frocks of
piinted silk.
White spots In four sizes are printed on
navy blue Japanese silks for tennis shirt
waists.
Bilk mull Is modish for full collars and
long nifhcs , and is particularly pretty with
tinted soft batiste costumes.
Ready-made skirts in linen , crash , duck
and pique , at remarkably low prices , domi
nants entire departments in the large shops.
Negligee underwalsts for warm weather
are of flexible woven stuffs. Strong , light
weight corsets are of canvas and of satin.
Frocks for deml-evenlng wear are of green ,
blue , gray or violet silk , with Insertions of
renaissance lace and rows of black velvet
ribbon.
The ground of an elegant embossed foulard
Is white , the design an arabesque In green ,
red or blue satin , traversed by u. small white
satin pattern.
An exquisite frock Is ot eilver-gray swiss ,
dotted In white , and made over a slip ot gray
glace taffeta. Girdle and collarette are of
cerise and gray changeable loulslne ribbon ,
wlto a white gauze edgo.
Many of the newest plain India muslin or
flowered organdlo muslin dresses have
tucked bodices and flounced sKirtw , with
the very fashionable ribbon sash , with long
loops and ends at the waist.
Costumes of pure white , from parasol to
shoe , are one of the prevailing fashions In
summer dress , and they are worn morning ,
noon and night , In all the varying grades
ot elegance or simplicity.
Short bolercfi and ctons made of cut-wotk
and embroidery , lined with thin tinted silk
of some becoming color , are considered very
smart with any sort of light bummer gown.
They glvo a pretty finish that la both chic
and dainty.
At a. recent character party crepe tissue
paper played a prominent part In the for
mation of dresses and the texture of flounces
and striking bodices was not suspected until
ma ks were removed and confidences ex
changed. Tlic&e gowns were much be-
trimmed on foundation ! ] of white pique Kklrts
and'shcer white waists. Quantities of ribbon
bows aldtd tlio Illusion of real crept .
Batiste laces wrought on a delicate net
ground are much used to trim ecru lawns ,
linen batistes and similar transparent
fabric ; ) . With these toilets , late In tlio
afternoon at the summer resorts , are worn
very pretty ruches of chiffon or batiste , finIshed -
Ished with long scarf ends of the same ,
bordered with batiste lace insertion bunds ,
A Paris correspondent reports a new and
very pretty necktie. It Is "of glace silk ,
about n yard long , HO finely plaited length
wise that It forms a band of about four
Inches only ; thia pa a yes around the neck
and Is tied In a bow and short ends In front ,
the extremities being fringed out an Inch
In depth. It la worn with a cambric turned ,
over collar and is made In all shades , usually
to match the dress or its trimming. "
The Brazilian beetle and other jeweled
bugs are replaced by uome pretty fancies
In gold and silver birds on tha wing , These
are mounted as brooches and stickpins and
take on any number of precious gemu by
way of Increased ornamentation and ex-
pcn o. A handsome now bracelet In dead
gold Is made of medallions with a aong bird
aa the center of each. These are linked GO
that the fastening Is Invisible.
New crepe papers with a silken finish
have broad floral bands of exquisite beauty
ou monotone grounds , Their utility In deco
rating the summer homo or country cot
tage Is almost boundless , making up as
they do into graceful ccreena , covera for
stowaways and dainty saah curtains. A
lampshade made of a cream crepe paper ,
brocaded In clematis , with vlnlng tendrllt ,
has a border of cascaded ( rills whichgives
the Impression ot garlands and festoons of
smllax Interspersed with purple ( lowers.
There has been a wonderful demand for
linen of every tint and quality thin leaeon.
Doth men and women find the material co
serviceable that the quantities that have
been told have surprised even tbe merchants
themtelve * Formerly there waa an objec
tion against linen on. account of Ita pro-
penalty to shrink greatly the first tlmo U went
to the laundry. Now this difficulty Is rc
moved , for nil the best qualities ot linen
crash nnd linen homespun arc rhrfink brforo
they leave the liands ot the various mant
facturcrs ,
The fashion ot choosing gems by the month
of ono'a birth has a rival In the up-to-ilaia
belief that the weaivr of a precious stone
must sco that It matches her eyes and har
monizes with her completion. Emeralds and
yellow topaz nrc ( or the haiel-cjcd girl who
has A glint of yellow In her orbj. The
woman with blue e > es finds tli.it the ttir-
quolso Is all her own. The medium fair
woman'R charms are enhanced by opals.
Pearls are raid to bo mcut ai > proprk\to ( or
blondca. while to the brown-e > cd girl Is glvcu
rubles and garnets. The woman who wears
diamonds to the greatest advantage- the
very decided brunette.
\otrn.
Mrs. Marlon Crawford , wtfo of the famous
novelist , has dark i-ycs and golden hair , two
things rarely found In the same person.
Mra. Rose Hawthorne Lathrop writes to aNew
Now York paper to urge the iMimedlato Heed
ot a hospital for poverty-stricken victims ot
cancer.
Mis ? Christina L.iw has been appointed
assistant elerk of courts for Hnmpdcn
comity , Massachusetts. Shu Is the Hint
woman In the state to hold this olllce.
Miss Nellie Patterson of Mount Cnrind ,
Conn. , has completed four years' appren
ticeship to the machinist trade , ami will
undertake toolmoklng as her particular line
of work.
Miss Shldzu Nnrtiso Is n Japanese woman
studying nursing In n New Vork hospital.
Shu has been trained In Japanese hospital *
but came to this country to study Ameri
can methods ,
Tlio duchess ot Cleveland has the outsldo
of her London house washed down from
top to bottom by men of the fire brigade.
Tlio task Is performed very early In the
morning.
Dr. Anna McFcc , who has been recently
appointed a resident physician to the In
fants' hospital on Randalls Island , Is Scotch
by birtli and a graduate of thu Toronto Med
ical College for Women.
The countess of SlralTord Is nt the head
of au organization known as the Flannel
Shirt club. 'Ihe aim of the society Is ( o
seek out the shlrtlessN and supply them
with warm garments.
Miss Mnrla Straub , who recently died In
Chicago , was the author of more than 200
hymns which have been set to music and
sung all over the country.
The llrst woman admitted to practice as
a barrister and solicitor In Australian courts
Is Miss Ethel Rebecca Benjamin , LL.1I. , of
Dunedin , New Xcnland , who has passed her
bar examination. She Is L'5 years of age.
Miss Ethel Murray , a young woman of
Detroit , Mich. , swam a mile and a half thu
other day In forty-four minutes. Miss Mur
ray Is a pretty girl , IS years old. She
weighs 1-7 11 omul a and Is five feet four
inches tall.
Mlsc > Lell Scgucr , superintendent of the
city schools of Decatur , Ind. , refused to
swear to the assessor's list , or to give him
a. list of her taxable property. For this slio
was arrested ami fined ? 1S. She believes
that If she cannot vote she should not pay
taxes.
Mrs. Daniel Wlialen Is a St. Louis woman
introduced to fame through her original
method ot pioservlng the harmony of lur
home. Her husband , coming home Intoxi
cated , tried to strike her. When he had
gonu to sleep Mis.Vhalcn sewed him up
in the sheet aud gave him a sound threshing.
Two Iowa girls , Mtsa Gertrude Fcrrell and
Miss Theodora Plambeck of Webster City ,
shot a burglar who had entered their house
last week. The girls were albno In the
house , and the burglar made several at
tempts to get In before he succeeded , llu
will not recover from his wounds. The
young women are members of the Clarion
Gun club and are good shots.
The queen of Denmark and her hus'Miid
llvo a quiet. Ideal life , caring more for homo
than for affairs of state. The family gatherIngs -
Ings at Copenhagen have become historical.
Their children arc all famous and theru Is
probably not another mother In tbe world so
proud of her children's achievements mi
Louise of Denmark.
MI.SB Juliette Atkinson , the champion
woman tennU player of this country , is not
satisfied with this Hide of her career , but
during the winter months , when tennis Is
not feasible devotes herself to work In the
theatrical profession. Miss Atkinson ap
peared In Now York City last season In a
minor part In comic opera and cheilaiieu tlio
Idea ot winning a higher place on the stage.
Miss Bculah Dlx , a Chelsea High [ school
graduate , has captured the Harvard jirl/e of
$250 for the best thesis on "The Published
Collection of English' and Scottish Ballads ,
17C5 to 1S02. " The prize la open to under
graduates of Harvard , graduates who rcaldo
at the university as students and the young
women at Radcllffe , or annex.
An English woman , cMIss Gertrude Long-
bottom of Glrton college , Cambridge , hn.i
won from Bryn-Mawr college a fellowship
of mathematics , tenable for ono year and ot
the value of $500. Illss Longbottom lias had
a brilliant career at'Glrtou , laat year had a
place among the wranglers In the Cambridge
mathematical tripos and won further honors
tills year. She will probably arrive here In
tlmo for the opening ot tlio college In the
fall. This Is the second tlmo that Bryn-
Mawr hns bestowed a fellowship upon an
English woman.
A dinner significant of the change In the
position of women during the Victorian era
SCHOOL GOWN.
Is BOOH to bo given at the Oration gallery ,
London , The licsUvsseH will bo a hundred
lenrescntatlvo women , who will each nomi
nate a distinguished mail as her guest. In
the evening there la to be a soiree for dis
tinguished peitsona who were not at the feaul ,
Thu names of Lady Jeune , Mrs. Humphrey
Ward , Mia , Fawcett and Mlwi Ellen Terry
appear among others on the committee ,
An Interesting little club of girls Is situ
ated In the heart ot Boston , on Oaweuo atrcet.
It Is named after that lover of glrlu , Louisa
M , Alcott , and Is a club for young I'iebmv
glrla started and directed by Hebrew women.
The older glrla of the club , inuH of them
work In shops. There are clian's of different
klnda for them aa well as for the younger
members , and concerts and talks on various
subjects , and always the pretty , coiy roomx
to give , with the work In other directions ,
the moat elevating ttiidt'iiclm aud the
lireatcBt help to tlio younu people fur whom
the club wau organized.
