r
TUE OMAHA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , OTT E G. 1897.
| \
JSS IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
FRK > CII FAM1JOMS.
Pnrlnlnn Stj-Im nncl Mtxlrl * for Mill-
Summer Wnrclro1 e .
PARIS , May it- . Light wool sown * arc
being made of veiling. This material has
replaced the alpaca of last year and the
crepon of the years before. It unite * their
advantages and U without their defects.
French of fabrication , where alpaca IB
English It IE belter adopted to the French
dressmaker's hands. It is hard twisted and
durable and yet at the same tine it Is thin
and soft , it plaits admirably and It makes
a good ground for appliques , both qualities
demanded now by fashion ; It is not pre
tentious like crepon. nor bald and ugly like
alpaca , but its absorbent surface has a look
of modesty and quiet rlegancc that per
mits a dress of refinement at email ex-
As to alpaca. It has disappeared with
even more celerity than could have been
foreseen. Thus Is not saying that It Is no
longer worn , but that It is no longer a ma-
Hrlal of first choice , and Is scarcely offered
for gowns , resencd mainly for the seashore
wardrobes of small girls and bojs , Related
to the bouffant period nearly passed away ,
5t was evident to the advised from the be
ginning that it could not hold tlie market ,
and those that took my advice lest summer
will not have a superfluous gown on their *
hands this year. With veiling the case le
\
VEILING GOWN WITH RUSSIAN BLOUSE.
quite otherwise ; it starts its career together
with a stjle of drees to which It Is re
lated and it Is likely , therefore , to have n
long run.
Veiling gowns are made -with the skirt
In , plaits and the blouse drooping slightly
over the belt all the -nay round. The plaits
most UGed arc of the radiating uort that
grovr wider toward the bottom. These are
not properly plaits , but only crimps ; they do
not Ho flat and do not take the width ol
material that plaits do. A special manner
of making them was described in my labt
letter : an easier method giving a similar
. effect is to make a gored skirt wide enough
to allow for plaiting that hae all the
breadths gored on both edges alike , eo that
ths seazns , navnlg no straight edges , but
being all exactly the same , have all the same
relation to the top. This method IE par
ticularly used for narrow width materials.
V Including silks. Some striped silks made in
this way , the stripes meeting to form Vs
in the seams , lime a curious and not tery
agreeable effect. Accordion plaits are being
used also. In this case the veiling being
wide is plaited without seams and the sel
vedge when decorative Is left , without hem
or facing , to finish the bottom. Some , of
the selvedges are of silk and two inches
wide , of the same or of a contrasting color.
A blouse in great favor fells straight from
the armholes down , hanging a little over
the belt , as a bolero would do. Sometimes
there is a short bisque below the belt If tbo
design of the skirt permits it , fitted without
wrinkles and decoratively slashed. This is
called a Hurelan blouse. When braided or
otherwise decorated all over and fastened
invisibly in the shoulder and under arm
eeama it looks * like a. piece of old armor ,
and the square Jockeys that form , en exten
sion of toe shoulders and are trimmed like
the blouse add to this effect.
Black and gray are the colors most used.
The liking this jcar for gray is perhaps
explained by the rage last year for ecru.
It is a swing back of the pendulum. The
gray is very pale , almost white , and so is
best suited for drces-up gowns , while the
black goei for traveling and other utility
wear.
FASHIONABLE MODELS.
In the way of gray sellings IE one with
the blouse made as above -described and
trimmed with appliques of narrow gray satin
ribbon. The ribbon is put on in parallel
liands running round , and in the middle of
the front and the middle of the back the
binds curve upward with a loop. Where
the ribbon Is curved It is drawn up In gatb-
ere by the cord of the edgc and then tewed
down fiat and pressed. The jockeys and the
elcnbe * of the baoque are rounded and are
tr.tnmrd to correspond. The sleeves ate
corded from top to bottom In ridges running
round , at intervals of an inch apart , and
thus are made to form a contrast with the
liloutc and Jockeje , a point to which the read.
tr't , attention is tailed , for It is character
istic of many gowns tils year. The skin
Is io un plaits. The neckband round the
back wca a standing collar that flares ; the
front is left comfortably low and the fashion
is to pass a scarf of tulle , or It might be of
lace , round the neck Inelde the collar of the
bark , and to tie 11 in a big bow under the
chin , Ordlttrily this bow It of white tulle ,
but colored tulle is worn also , and a great
effect Is made with a color to match tfc/J
hat. as with a mauve hat a. mauve bow
until r the chin.
A black veiling has the blouse and jock-
e } < all in cords running up and down an
inch apart. The fclceies are left plain.
The accordion plaited skirt has a selvedge
cl striped yellow and white. Other black
Eowns have the blouse open down the front
over a color , as red or mauve , with the
jabot rev era down each side faced with the
tame color and a Randlag color faced with the
color. For thtce facinus a tiovelty is made
of overlapping ruffies cf narrow ribbon , or
of narrow ruffles of doubled tulle that gives
B broken surface of light and shade more
agreeable than plain tilt , In default ot
this , oo\tr the facing with coarse black
lace or appliques of course black embroi
dery , or elta stripe them across with nar
row black braid.
To return a moment to alpaca , B gown
of which very possibly every mother's
daughter that reads tbit has banging in
hir closet , these gowns are beet modified
by trimming them with colored taffeta rib-
boa. As the material is bald and poor in
effect add thus the beauty of a con
trasting color. If the alpaca is gray , bind
the ruffles over the sleeve top with mauve ,
trim the fclirt with tirnllar rumcs , or eUe
vlth bands ot the ribbon running around ;
open the blouse over a miuve taffeta front
end add a mauve taffeta belt It the al
paca Is cni , trim It with white ribbon ; If
light blue , with white or mauve ribbon ; If
navy blue , with niyy blue velvet ribbon , tf
black if black , the roundest advice would
be that U will make an excellent lining.
Black alpaca certainly harmonlrec with
it would mlt to jrfectlea tt *
people -who Ogue In Byron's dream of the
farainr. Hut If you have it and cannot
lay It by for a harmonious catastrophe
then trim It with velvet- Thus the eje
will find on H * surface a little repose.
TENDENCIES.
There te a constant effort to get away from
the puff at tiie top of the eleeve and all
reminiscence ol the glgot form. Many sleeves
arc quite Rat at the top , and they no longer
look queer. A Jockey extends out from the
bUm-p. and quite satisfies the eye. Some
times a rufDe or a ronette or a jabot of lace
is set under the Jockey , with a noiel and
pretty effect. Tke Jocley may be slashed
through the mtddl * to allow the lace to pueb
through. At other times. Instead of a joctej ,
there 1 ? a dueler of ruffles over the arm
hole. They are bound with velvet , with a
wire In the velvet , and so are made to stand
out tilth little Btiffuess. But it should be
added that tht-se 3io\ cities are principally
rcerved for silk and cotton gowns , and
that wool and other out-of-door gowns have
the sleeve w'th ' the usual puff , made very
email and as simple as possible.
It looks now an though the old and the
natural method of closing the bodice at
the front of the neck v.ould come back Into
fefihloa. The collar has run up so high
that tbero is no longer a possibility and can
scarcely be a pretense of a fastening at the
back. The bow RO long worn behind hts
disappeared , and little by little the front
begln to be marked. Some of the dress
makers finish silk anil' cotton gowns with
a bow at the front of the neck , or nlth an
oxydlzed brooch to match the buckle at the
belt. Llntn collars with a tip In front have
been worn for some time , and tulle bows
have been spoken of abo\e. Itwill soon
be time to take out from Jewel boxes the
breastpins that have Iain Idle so long. And
this return to what was once a raatler of
course has all the effect of a brand new
f angle.
RIBBON'S JVND RUFFLES.
As Is usual In summer ribbons have taken
on a considerable importance. The great
novelty Is tranrpircncles. On a foundation
of colorless gauze are woven stripes of green ,
roee , bluecatln , in widths of from a hair line
to a half Inch , and when this ribbon is gath
ered , or ruffled or looped In bows , the founda
tion disappears against the gown and the
colored bauds stay airily in place without
sny visible euppsrt. Gowns trimmed with
such ribbon give quite new effects. Thus a
black ellk , the skirt ruffled with ribbon of
green stripe * , on a foundation of black
tulle , and the blcuse made entirely of the
ribbon In stripes runn'ng up and down. If
this ritbon U not at hind , it isvery well
imitated by sewing narrow ribbon on rtrlps
o ! tulle.
These transparent ribbons are used
equally to trim evening gown ? of gauze
and tulle. The idea is adapted also to cot
tons and foulards by trimming the ruffles of
these materials with parallel row. * of nar
row ribbon. Thus a black foulard with a
pattern In rose has ruffles striped with , rose
ribbon.
Ecru batiste ribbons striped with satin in
color are used to trim gowns of ecru batiste.
The ribbon and the ground being alike , the
stripes are thrown up in relief. The rame
cru ribbon is used to trim govvne of silk ,
the ilk being the same color as the stripes
Both these effects are novel , and are ex
tremely good. A model Is an old rose taffeta ,
trimmed with ecru ribbon , striped with rose.
Overlapping knife-plaited ruffles cf the rib
bon trim the skirt , and there is a blouse of
batiste. trlped round wjth the ribbon under
a bolero of the silk. The blouse falls low
over the taffeta belt in front , and the belt
rises high behind the pass under the bolero.
A plaiting of the ribbon stands round the
back of the neck , Intlde the high collar of
the bolero.
Organdie ribbons with eilk embroidered
dots and a silk selvedge are provided to trim
organdie gowns. Thee are beet suited to
joung girls and children , in whcee drees
they play a Tery useful part.
FLOUNCES.
Flounced skirts have made some headway ,
and appear to have conquered their -place.
Perhaps one skirt In twenty that one e es Is
flounced. Theee are in reality only a varia
tion of the shirred skirts of last summer ;
they are the same skirts , divided into two
or three parts. They are particularly used
for -veilings and foulards , but they are used
also for cottons and taffetas. Veiling
flounces are bordered with their ojrn selvedge
if ornamtnta.1 , or with a bind of ribbon ;
taffeta flounces may have an applique of lace
near the edge ; figured foulard docs not need
to be trimmed , but msy hate ribbon or vel
vet stripes near the edge. A model in foul
ard Is divided Into two flounces , each one
shirred-federal Inches deep , the shirring of
the upper one beginning at the belt. Din
ner gowns of embroidered grenadine over
colored silk also are flounced.ADA
ADA CONE.
I.VVEVTIOXS 111" WOMKX.
A Notnblv exhibition at the Tenneii-
? r Crnlennlnl.
They are women's Inventions , gathered ,
collated and duly labeled to help in making
a Tennessee holiday at the Nashville ex
position. They crowd a room in the wom
an's building , itself awoman's invention ,
and furnished throughout by efforts of
other women. The room is not over big.
BATISTE GOWX WITH RIDBOK.
jut chock full of most various and variously
interesting things.
This Is not eo uncommon , therefore note
worthy , as the tort of things towhich
woman's tnlnd has run. Or rather to their
> ettermnt. One expects to find them im
proving upon , eadlrons and fluting Irons and
churns and bread moulds end other such
iout-ehold tmall deer. But It b a trifle a -
: oo&hlng' ! to find -woman patenting the
DfBt brush for a horse's coat jet devised.
Woman' * wary fears ejplalu the rein pro
tector , which makes U impossible for the
most evil-minded beast that ever drew Jn
shafts to get bis tail ubove them. The
same is true for the net for belly and sides.
Plies in those regions are the root of many
a runaway. If It comes In spite of the
ret , here are two other shielding devices
a bit , warranted to bow the etiffeu neck ,
and more effectual still , ring bolt running up
through the- foot of the vehicle , by pulling
which the hone and shafts are loosed from
the carriage body , at the same time that the
wheels are locked so as to obviate danger
ous retrograde motion ,
TUa tiw * U act , good lor JwJll r or
camper. It has a light , deal framework ,
with canvas roof and fly. All the sides are
filled with wire gauze in handy sized sash '
frames. Within It one can feel every -wind
that blows , yet bid superb defiance to mldg ,
mosquito and all their train. There is
likewise a camp bed. with mosquito net at
tached all warranted to fold into portable
compass. Snug nests of pans and plates
and cups also. Altogether It Is more than
apparent here that the woman who gc < 3
afield has felt the ne-ed of things and sets
her wits to work at supplying them.
For here l a w.mp bread-rilser , upon the
principle of an incubator , and capable of
serving as a pantry or tin kitchen when not
In active pervlce , A lamp or the camp
stove supplies requisite heat. Then tbero is
a canteen , warranted nelthsr to break nor
* plll. to say nothing of folding knives and
forks and spoons , and ladles. Good for use
anywhere are the mustache and medicine
rpoons , with hinged cover and orifice either
elde. Their inventor. It is said , was a
woman whose conscience of ncatnes ? w-as
forever offended by the soup which got Into
her husband's hirsute adornment.
The round paper lapboard , fitting snug
over the knees , and of the most igreeable
lightness , will appeal strongly to every
woman who ha ? basted a difficult bit upon a
fiat surface. The churn , worked by a pedal
after the manner of a sowing machine , open *
vistas of ease tnd culture to the women
of the farm , who have now no time to read.
One can sit , through the churning , revelinp
execution Thej t" * < ' .1 spared Train
the kingdom. It is only ' Utn of national
calamity , each as tbr trrr&liadon o ! the late
war between Japan and Clioa. khat enterpris
ing firms In the o itllecrM get a chance
to buy there preclou * trr ? c6
The bulk of the Jade that la used now for
fashionable ornaments is-ircght from New
Zealand , sources of supply having been found
near the coast of that country For In
definite ages In Spain OldjXeiico and among
the Chin we the wearing of a plete of Jade
anywhere about the person , TCS retarded as
a spell to keep off di eaW Especially dis
eases of the loins and stomach or fits of
frenzy or epilepsy For any one In China
to give a present of an artlrlf made of Jade
signified good trill. "As you wish" Is the
meauing of the too-ee or wand of authority ,
made and presented by a-creat official at the
Installation of sn incoming * dignitary. Only
j the finest roo-les are made of jade , rock
crystal , metal or even carved wood btlng
used for those typical of less exalted sta-
I tlon. The fact that the collece man of tc-
day buys a Jade bracelet for his sweetheart
I recalls a scientific problem , the hint that
I America had communication with the old
world ages ago , long before Columbut.
landed , for jade Is not-found In this couu
try. and jet presents made out of Jade were
' among the first gifts sent in propitiation bj
1 Monteruma when Cortez invaded old Mexico
i A frreen bracelet Is becoming to a delicate
arm and looks well with the falling lace of
the summer girl's slce\e. The summer girl
has found this out.
riO.MMit IN KOlll STATES.
Iho -tlnnliiK In Cr.llfornln.
Orocmi. 'VViikhlnctun nnil Iiluhci.
Mrs. Julia A. McCar"ver , who died In Tacoma -
coma Friday , relates the Portland Oregonlan ,
had the' distinction of being a pioneer in
four of the Pacific coast slates Oregon , Cali
fornia , Washington and Idaho. General Mc-
Cancr had the additional distinction of be-
ins an Iowa pioneer , he going at an early
date to that state froia Kentucky and es-
lablUhSng the town of Burlington.
McCarver took an active part in the Indian
I
t of Australia , though her parents are Irish
| of noble extraction her father I > O > CG ID a
title She le related to many prominent
British aristocrat * .
When a mere girl he married an army
oScer Major F C. Rowan , belonging tea
a distinguished family of roMtrrs He served
throuch the New Zealand war , ta * ilth hln
hi * wife passed the finst years of their mar
ried life In that wild country
She always showed a taste tor painting ,
but * he be an really to devote her atten
tion to It because her husband was such a
lover of botany and encouraged her to make
a ttudy of the splendid native plants of
Australasia This she ha * done , even at
the risk of her life , penetrating farther Into
the wilds of that country than any other
white woman has ever done often surrounded
by the savage aborigines , who watched her
with keenest interest while she workeJ and
who were Invariably friendly to he'r , prob
ably because Ot her kindliness and sweet
personality , but this she does not own to.
She * has accomplished her tasks under the
most trying circumstances , sometimes l > lng
flat on her back , sometimes on horseback erin
in a temporary but of bark She has been
caught In a tropical flood , the small boat In
which she traveled Just escaping being
swamped ; has had stramp fever , caught
while transferring to her canvas specimens
of plants that grow In the marehes ; and was
een lowered by ropes down a dizzy precipice
Her courage and de\otlon to her work are
Indomitable
But her reward has come , snd her name
has become a famous one on the other fide ,
where she has won pold medals at St. Pe
tersburg , Antwerp , Amsterdam , Vienna , Lon
don , Paris , Sydney , Calcutta and Melbourne.
She also has the satisfaction ot knowing that
she has accomplished something ot highest
value In the scientific world , and It is prob
able that her whole collection will be pur
chased by one of our big museums of natural
history , as a reference for advanced students
In that science.
Since her husband's death Mrs. Rowan has
taken up a practical application of her ar
tistic powers , that ot Interior decoration , and
has ornamented two notable Londou man-
BLACK AND GRAY CANVAS SUITS.
In good literature , for cnce thlnra are prop
erly adjusted there is nothing to do save
work the foot until the butter has come.
Here are a fireman's-cap tnd gloves , due
to woman comprehension , and alresdy
adopted by more than one dty force. Here ,
too. is the mrdel dirt cart a rort of bag
upon wheels devised by Mrs. George E.
Waring. Jr. , to help her husband in the
cleaning of New York streets. Here is also
a machine for turning out paper bags. It
looks ever fo much more formidable than a
companion piece which helps In preparing
some essential part of a war vessel's hull.
There If a propeller , tea , to woman's credit ,
and eier so many lifeboaU , cheek by jowl
with clocks and sewing machines and thim
bles and patent washers , all vol > ed Irom
the feminine inner consciousness.
Dolls acd dollr. of course. The most no
table ire Miss McDowell's paper dolls and
the rag ones , made by a Tennessse woman ,
who manages to cut and shape and eew :
them inith the neatest possible stitches into
a semblance of human features truly start
ling. They are practically indestructible ,
and look much like the uncolored bisque
beautley of the Christmas shops. Boy dolls ,
also dcllciously grotesque as to coMume ,
and with something of a small boy's aban
don in line and pce. . There are games for
the wee folks and elates andtoys manifold.
Indeed , the patent room demonstrates bejond
peradventure th > t woman does not give her
whole mind to any one thing or set of things ,
but takes this world and some moiety ot
the next for her mental parle-h.
JAOC OHAAMU.N'PS.
Some of tlie Kntorltc Jrnelx of ( lie
Summer Girl.
The Chinese minister came to this coun
try last rummer and displayed vestments and
appointments that vied wllb the dyes and
peacock plumage In richness and beauty.
His eminence -went back east again -with hla
train of attendants , but left a passion for
purples and vivid colois in his wake that
bus not yet paled in fashion's fancy. In-
etead , the craze- for all t&lngs eastern takes
more and more hold on the popular mind ,
and now Jade , the myptical precious stone of
the Orient , has come into prominence.
Fashion's devotee * wear amulets , bracelets ,
chatelaine and vinalgarette rings made of It ,
Jade is the color of mountain grass , a little
greener than sea green in hueIt is ex
tremely difficult to work in , and because ot
this resistance to human manipulation U Is
very costly. A ellm bracelet of Jade , set
with twinkling ollvlnes , the divines being
reckoned nearly semi-precious stone * , is sold
for (50. The -wearing at euch a bracelet ,
however , brings the wearer good fortune ;
the wearing of two cucb jewels insures a
double portion of good luck. Tbe belle :
and wealthy downgers this season have their
parasol handles of jade ( only a small piece
inrerled tame where , perhaps ) , but it is a
happy cymbal , and the small , smooth green
ring , not unlike in size the ivory circlet
that a baby cuts its teeth on , depending
from the top of their purses or a vinaigrette
bottle.
For thousands of years jade has bad a
sacred mystical meaning for the men ana
women of China. When an unusually large
piece of the t > tone is found the Chinese em
peror calls together a council of artists to
decide as to the form In. which It may bret
b iiorked , a subject being chosen that 1 <
tcfinlngly Indicated by tae natural forma
tion. Sometimes twenty jears U eprnt in
earring an important piece , for tbe etone is
very hard to make an impression upon. With
a thin piece of finely tempered braLs wire
tbe Chinese -worker may caw away for a
week and then have little to show for his
pains. After an artist has finished his
deputed tack ot jade carving , the work is
tncmltted for public criticism and Inspection
for a year. If , at the end of the year , tbe
earring U approved of , tbe artist la made a
mandarin , however lowly hit station ; if , on
the other hard , bis work is condemned , hla
reputation la rulne * ! utterly , even if be In
to fortunate as to escape -with hit head.
With euch fearful odde at etake It is Email
wonder that tbe Chinese jade carving * are
miracle * ol utUtlq Jjituty to.4 intctti pi
war troubles , when he acquired the title of
, general. He was also a member of the
j protisianal legislature btfcre the recognition
i of the formation of Oregon as a territory of
tbe United States. He had a One farm at
Oregon City. With Buraett he endeavored
t establish a town a Jew miles below Port-
, laud , which they called Llcnton , after Sena-
j tor Llun of Missouri. Before accomplishing
J much gold was discovered in California , and
both men Joined in the rush of Oreganicns
for that state. There they interested them
selves in the establishment of the city of
Sacramento. ilcCaner was a member of
California's first constitutional contention ,
Mrs. MoCarvcr followed her husband to
Califo.nla in the sprinc il 1843 , remaining
there until fall. She sailed for Portland on
a vessel commanded by Captain Irving ,
father of Captain John Irving , the bead of
the Canadian Pacific Navigation company of
BritUh Columbia. Unable to get into the
Columbia river , after repeated and long-
continued efforts , the -vessel was compelled
to make for Puget sound. Mrs. McCarver
was landed at Nisqually. from which Hud
son bay post she went on horseback and
canes to her Willamette valley home. She
and her family lived there- and at Portland
until they moved to Idaho City In Ibe gold
mining excitement of 1BC1-62 , and what is
now Idaho was a part ot Washington terri
tory. Returning to Portland , where they
lived three more jeans , they moved to Puget
Sound In 1SCS , locating on Commencement
bay , where General McCarver fcecured large
bodies of land and founded tbe town of
Tacoma. .He died In April , 1674.
PAIXTEll OK WILD FLOWEHS.
Grcnt n 'i > ntuf Ion Achlriftl by n
Vcjunn Annfr-tllnn Wamnn.
A really remarkable little lady U the
dcinty and charming young flower painter ,
Mrs. Ellis Rowan , now on a vUit to Uiin coun
try , having brought with her to show her
.Amerclan cousins 100 specimens of her mar
velous pictures of the Australian flora. She
MRS. ELLIS ROWAN.
bee over 700 water colon , all most exquUfte
and artirtic in composition and finUb , each
one representing one or snore of tbe native
wild flowers cf Australia'and eo perfectly
correct In coloring as weJl ae accurate In
detail that they are a rare and valuable
collection from a natural history point of
view , apart from their Intrinsic beauty , es
pecially as tbe late SJr Ferdinand von Muel
ler , the famous German , botanist , named
each variety with lus proper scientific ap
pellation , placing his own tignature on tbe
back of the pictures.
Mrs. Rowan born La the far-off Itnfl
sions , that of Lady New ten in Belgrave
square , and "Cliveden , " the town house of
Sir William Clarke.
GENERAL ALGEIt't. IJAtGIITEIl.
A ClMirmlnjr Yonngr Womnn In the
CrMnet Clrtlc-fc.
Secretary cf War and Mrs. Alger are
the parents of five children , of whom two
daughters and the eldest eon are married ,
sa > s Harpfr't Bazar. Frederick , the second
ton , is in his sophmore jear at Harvard ,
and the re-training member of the family
is Miss Frarces , n charming girl of eighteen
or twenty summers. She is sure to be a
great favorite with the gentlemen who wear
the epaulets on their shoulders out at Fort
Myer , for she 13 a thoroughly delightful ,
unassuming American young woman. She is
tall fully a head taller than her petite
mother and has a slender , graceful figure ,
with night-black ejee and hair and a clear
olive cUin.
Another thing which will commend her to
the "soldier bajs" Is her fondness for horses
and all out-of-door exercUe Like her
brothers , Mira Frances knowa good borse-
flrab when she eers It and she is an excellent
hors2woman , both In riding and driving.
Tennis and golf are favorite pastimes with
her , and nothing delights her more than
a long day in rome picturesque bit of coun
try with her kodak , for she IE quite an cs-
pert in amateur photography and bts pro
duced some very creditable work. She was
carefully educated , graduating first from a
Detroit school , and afterward taking a post
graduate course in Miss Porter's school at
Farmington , Mas ? , where her grandmother ,
mother and sisters were students before her.
Then , like all fortunate , emd-of-tbe century
girls , she has the advantage of travel , not
only in he own country , but abroad one
cf the plcasantcst trips being a cruise of
the Mediterranean with her father and
mother several months age. Che Is her "fath
er's latfile ; " a peculiarly lender tie setms
to exist between them , and she has always
been bis companion , not only In his library ,
but on bis business and pleasure trips when
ever that was possible Tbe family are
Prcsbyleritnr , tnd Mrs. Alger and her
daughters are noted for their activity In
church work and charities.
. Piikliluii Xo < rn.
Lace jackets worn with very thin gOTns
are one of the latest novelties , and the new
est form ebows a pcstlllon back.
White and black batistes , challles and
French organdies follow very closely tbe
newest , handsomest pattern * In Eumme-r silks.
Blouse bodices are quite as popular as
the coat in any esrt of mate-rial , and very
pretty pique gowns are made la this way ,
opening in front over a chemisette nnd nar
row vest of embroidery ,
Gray Is one of the most fashionable colon
this season , nnd In cashmere or the fine-
ribbeid canvcs It makes the daintiest sort of
summer gown nvith plenty of cream lace and
f. touch of pink , > ellow or pale green eilk oa
tbo bodice.
The new mull wtlsts from Paris follow
the conventional lines of the fascinating
models of silk and Liberty satin , but they can
bo fashioned by various deft roodieteB ID a
pretty and simple style suggested by each in
dividual wearer.
Princesse dressei and princesse effects pre
vail among fashionable eumme-r toilets , but
the new models are ED changed by their
bolero fronts , surplice draperies , odd rerero ,
end large picturesque collars , at to be hardly
recognizable
Very beautiful black-lace Insertions vary
ing from one to four inches In width are used
with elegant effect on summer toilets ot
silk or diaphanous textlluc. Pleate > d ruches
of black mouseeUne de ncie finish tbe skirt
hem and decorate the oeck of the bodice.
Creamy India tnnll waists for dressy after
noon wear will in many icttences take tbe
piece of white chiffon for blouses and sur-
pice-\\aUtt ) this summer , for tbe reason that
while India mull has all the toft transparent
effect of chiffon , it it very much more dur
able.
Commemoration Jubllto articles will make
crtUte a feature la the irorll o ! trade ttill
tummpr There are Jubilee punthadte * nl
belt decorations , Joblle-s taws , very allegori
cal In design , jubilee cufthtons in rainy col
ors and Quern Victoria's portial ; en the tat in
and jubilee purcct and ribbons.
Many ot the hot weather gown * are mtde
with eurpUce bodices most srawfully ar
ranged. The s-klrta are girnlsbed with
ruehey. trilling. flotmes , ribbon in rene or
fancy detleeJ. accordion pleating * , and lace
edgings and in * rtltm put on In every man
ner that moJpra tccte and Ingenuity can
devise.
Some of the very smart models for sum
mer gowns show the skirt laid In alternate
knlfe-klltltigs and narrow fcraMed panels.
Rob * drestKR ot plain and tnachlne-embrotd-
ercd linen. bMlste. or the lighter grass linen
are particularly effective so made up. and
in moire , callus , or tallies. In combination *
with sun-pleated nets , prenidlnes. crepe de
Chine , or silk etamlnr. some extremely ele
gant COMUIIHard rbown.
For the summer are new neml-tranpparent
materials for mourning gowns Imitating In
dia tcillc ? In their patterns , also handsome
foulards and China slll.r. grenadine- * , and
ctaralnes In black and white cfftc's for light
mournlnp , soft Liberty * tlUs with black
grounds sprinkled with various delicate white
devices , and white grounds with black bars ,
vine ( -tripes and all-over designs and odd
geometrical Dgures.
The sleeves of thin dresses are either
shirred or trimmed round with rows of tucks
and lace insertion , and three lace-edged
frills arc the prettiest finish for the top.
The skirts have lets fullness than those ot
last season , but they are cut either with
seven pores and fitted carefully around tbe
hips or made with plain breadths shirred in
tiny cords below the waist nnd trimmed wlt
lace Insertion set In various forms above the
hem , diamond points being one ot the fa-
vjritc designs.
A very pretty model from Paris of ex
quisitely fine , sheer mull Is laid in tiny
tucks , with rows of lace Insertion alternat
ing , then gathered full about the neck into
a folded satin collar Elegant lace caps > fall
over tbe short sleeve pufls and the Insertion
shows on the closely fitted sleeve from wrist
to puff This waist has a separate short-
sleeve und'ir-bodlce , lace-trlmmrd and \erv
snug , low In the neck , and designed to show
the shoulders delicately through the semi-
diaphanous textile of the waist proper.
The new bell skirt is much used for sum
mer gowns of silk , cotton and -wool ma
terials. It is cut in three pieces a front
pore and one bell breadth ecch side of this
pore , which is very wide , and has a bias
scam down the back The skirt measures
about four and one-half yards nt Its greatest
circumference and it can be used as a drop
skirt under a draped skirt or overdress. All
tbe various Fiench models fit smoothly
around the hips , the fullness at tbo baclc
either gathered or pleated In compact form
and with Just an easy , graceful flare around
the lower portion of the skirt.
To those who find the nton or bolero Jacket
becoming , tbls little shape can be utilized
in cutting over a coat or basque-bodice that
one has tired of or that has become slightly
worn below tbe waist and on the f rente The
basque portion may be cut off and tbe booked
front also removed , leaving enough only lor
tto Eton fronts. If these are at all soiled
they may be quickly cleaned with naphtha ,
and then covered with revers-fronls Joined
to a square collar that falls over the shoul-
ders in tbe back. The points of the revcrs
I
| may reach to the extreme edge of the jacket-
front , or end tome Inches above the waist
line.
line.The
The modiste and the tailor have this year
made yachting and tennis costumes that are
suitable also for beach and 'country wtar-
some in skirt and jarket form , others with
a canvas , serge , or mohair fkirt , and a waist
of different material , esch of fancy taffeta or
the-cooler figured India silk These are not
the familiar shirt waist -with pointed yoke
and stiff ) collar a style relegated to mere
utility uses but ere made over thin lining
in a rather fanciful fashion , with a fluffj
front , spreading shoulder effects a seamlwr
back , small sleeve puffs , and a celnture-llkf
waist finish that is not too wide 'to give a
slender effect.
K * : niniitotrr * .
Mrs. Rajmond , the mother of the president
of "Vassar college , has given the Foreign Mis
sionary society of the EplnTmny Baptist
church. New York , $11,000 for tbe education
of heathen women. '
Deborah Sampson is known to fame as the
only woman who served in the revolutlonarj
army. She enlisted ur. r the name of Rob
ert Shirtliffe , and left the service with testimonials
menials for exemplary conduct.
Miss Eugenia Sellers has had the degree
of LL D. bestowed upon her by St. An
drew's university in recognition of her trans
lation of "Pliny's Letters on Art. " She
gained her reputathn as & lecturer on
archacolog > and art.
Mrs Ollphant is In Italy to gather material
for a volumes which ehe wjll entitle "Siena. "
Itwill form one of a merles of books on
historic tov.ns of the mediaeval period. The
bookct will be Illustrated by artists living
In the localities -where the scenes are laid.
Mra C. H. Sp rgeonwidow of the late
renowned pastor of the Metropolitan taber
nacle , London , cut the first sod of the
giound upon which a large Baptist chapel
v. Ill be commenced at once at Bexhill , near
London. She made an appropriate addrcsi
at the ceremony.
Mkss Hocart , a daughter of a Wlsconslc
minister residing in Paris , has been awarded
the tecond ot tbe prizes annually presented
by the French academy for "noble living. "
The award is in appreciation of her work in
tbe slums of FE.rU , and tbe value of tbe prize
Is 1300.
Mirs Gordon Cummlngs Is raising mone >
in all tbe principal cities of England for tbe
purpose of teaching the blind in China She
will found a large blind acjlum at Peking
and la doing this in commemoration of the
diamond jubilee. The Murray ejttem will
be taught.
Miss Frances H. Simpson , one of the first
FOULARD GOWN.
women graduates of tbe University of Edin
burgh lies lt-i'U appointed warden of tbe
-Matron hall , Edinburgh -which Is to be
opened next jear es a rtT.der.ce for women
students of the tni7mlty. It is a gift of
frienlc and pupil * ot Prof. Mteson.
Rev. Augusta Cbapln , D D. , lately spent
a few weeks inCortland , N. y. Ebe preached
on two Eundajp , addreteed tbe students of
tbe normal cchool , and gave her new Illus
trated lecture , "From London to Palestine. "
Dr. Ccapin U going westward , stopping at
Rochester and various other points.
Another daughter of Dr. Charles A. Brlggs
of higher criticism fame , has entered upon
a pi of etsiota ! career , Miss fiophli Brlggs
has graduated as a. lawyer In the woman's
clacs of tbe New York university. In addition
to Miss Brlggs. forty-iix other joung womeii
received certifiutee at tbe came time , and
a scholarship of $ 00was gained by Mlta
Isabel T. Alexander ,
MTU. Gmmons Blalne U promoting a eosiety
play , written by Mre. Fannie Locke Jdacken-
ile. She li to pick nine women from tbe
set , and tb nine are to ID other tbe cchemc
from tbe nocUty tide. It it to be the howl-
ASTHMHBONY.
Munyon Has Mastered This
Living Death.
A GREAT MEDICAL DISCOVERY.
No onwho ha * not experienced op
witnessed the- agonies of asthma can
reaJlte the horrors of that disease. It U
little exaggeration to My that ru ferer
from asthma ,
die many
time * . Acute
paroxysm * fre
quently result
In unconscious
ness and some-
UaicB in death.
Like many
other diseases
which havt
baffled medi
cal skill for
centuries , how
ever , nsthma
has met Its
master , Mun-
) on's Asthma
Herbs will stop
into triangular
pastilles. the most convenient -
vonient form for burning ever discovered.
Us d with the
AMhma-Curr , they will
positively and permanently cure thi
worse forms of asthma. Professor Mun-
yon guarantee * It. A box of Muiivon" .
Asthma !
Church
time. Her distress during the
. She ° tried * ort breathing was xery
a great many klnd
treatment without obtaining- more than
temporary rtllef. Finally. 1 placed her
under treatment with the Munyon Kerne-
AEtVna Curc d AVihSS
and am pleased to tesUfv that
, ha" cowrtetelr cured her. "
Mutiyon a separate specific for each
k 10 b } ' dr"rcl < t ! < . Mo.tly
2cents. . If doubt , write to Professor
PhlladtlPhla' Bet
TRADEMARK
POCANTICO
I tWost Complexion Powdere S
, have a vulgar glare , but POZZONI'S is a j-uo I
' bcautiCcr , whoi-e effects are lasting |
Free to Men
We ttill t.end jou bj mall ( in nlaln iiucliuce )
AUS-OLUTEL-l FHEE , the jiivtrtul lr.
IIutriiian'N Vllnl Itt-Moriifli e TiiblctH ,
with a lecal euaruWtt 10 jitnnaninMy cuie
LoM Mauliooil. St-lf- VliuccVinUlif .H ,
Vnrlcoc < * IMopE forever Mdil KiulhKluiiK
and nil unnatural drains speedily rvi-ton.s hralta
and jteifect manhood
\Ve have faith In our treatment , and U we
could not curt * > ou we would not tend our
mpdlrlne i"Si : to tr and jiay when fcatlrfltd.
\ \VES1EIl.\ nil ICI Mi CO. , ( incorporate , ! )
Itnlnninrnn. Midi.
PATRBNiZE
10STBIES
Y purchasing goods made
at the following Nebras
ka factories. If you can
not find what you want ,
communicate with the
H nufacturers as to
li a t dealers handle
their coods. = *
OMAHA iiniiAVi.NO'ASSOCIATION.
Car load shipments made in our own relrls-
erator curR. Ulu * Ribbon. Hllte Export , Vienna
Export and Pa.mil ) Export delivered to nil parts
or the ctlj.
IRON WORKS.
" "
D A VIS & "CO WG ILL III OX WORICS.
Iron nnil Ural * * Founder * .
TJanufncturrri' and Jobbers ot Machinery Gen
eral trpnlrlne a nxclaln. luOl , 113 and 1 ! > 05
Jackfaon ctreet , Oixuiha Xeb.
INDtl < TIlIAL , IUO.N WOIllCS
Manufacturer and repairing of nlJ kinds of
machlnerj. < > npin . pumpis. eJunlorB , iirintlce
tirccter. Iiiincirp ihnftlnp and coufllneB. litXi
and 140S Howard St , Omaha ,
PAATOV A : VIISKMXG IHOWOHKS. .
Miniufacturrrfi ot Architectural Iron Work.
Central Founar ) , Msclilne end lilockrmlth work.
r Tp nnd Contractor * for Tire Proof Bulld-
Oflloe itnd works : U P Ky and South
! 7lh Urt-ct , Omaha.
BHIUT FACTORIES.
j. ii."KVAX'S.
xnnnASKA SIIIIIT COMPAXV.
CxclueUe custom Miirt t&llortu ISIS Farnam.
TENTS AND AWNINGS.
A-MRIIICAV TENT AMI AWXZ.tG CO.
Aw nine * . Tents. Hurte Ccnirs. Flue * and
Pauling. T < TJIE ( or rent. Salesroom C13 South
Slrt ? itb Mreet. 4GG.
. . _ . . .
SCIIOEUSACK-S TWI.V crV DYE
IVOIIKS 1.VJ1 Fiirnuiii M.
Dyelne and cleaning of enrmentt and coodi ot
f\try description , dinning of line eurrntnli a
WAGONS AND CAHniAGES.
CHEAI *
Medium prlcrd In tony carrlact * . All kind * .
Second hand or new. Rubber tlret. Warranted.
B. Drummond , Currlncen. llth arid Harnry.
A. J. SIJJI'SOX.
140 ; > , 1411 Dodge.
Full line of Carriages , Ducciu , Phaetonn. Pony
Carts. AVtiiels rubber tired , The best U th
cbrrpeFt ,
inecet of tilt howling , and the proceeds are
to go to the Visiting Nurses' association
all of which is profound secret. The title
of the play is "Mr. Uroaley' * Dinner. " TnU
play will probably \ > e produced by the
younger members of the set , with tome as
sistance from professional amateurs in the
leading rohe. It It to be one of the great
ewiUs of the opening autumn reason , and
all cummer Ion ? the plibs will be Ulked
and formulated for actual work when the
jxople get batk from the country anil the
eea.
eea.Wlie
Wlie Lillian Gary whose enEJEeroeiit to
Robert Taj lor of New York ha * been re
cently announced , is the oldest of the ie\tn
duupliU'iK of the pos'maxter general. Ehe is
a talented > oung woman , end her meet dis
position and many accomplishments arc only
equaled by her many th-rmi. M'fs Lillian.
IB an expert musician , and this ts nothing to
be mam led at , for all the Garjs are itry
ept In music. Although popular in eo.-itty.
ebe U rather domestic In her tatfrt , and
elnce her father t appointment as postmaster
general cbe bc taken upon herself much
of the burden of the entertainment that IE
done at the Gary house-hold in Washington.
Mr Taj lor. her fiance. U a bright young at
torney In New York. He has a good piaUice
In that city and It a riling man. He was
graduated , after a brilliant career , from , the
University of Virginia , and then hung out
his chlngle in the eastern metropolis ae a
lawjer. He has considerable fortune In bli
own right.
People ruffe-ring from rheumatism bara
weak watery blood and & worn-out , debili
tated ejetein. Pill AEttinlc I'lnk enrlclie *
the- blood , rtetoret shattered nerves , and , l
persUtently taken will cure chronic rheum * .
tUm.
