10 TITE OMATTA DATLY , MH3E : SUIT DAT , MAT 2. 1807.
ffoSfck
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. II-
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TOUIll.VO TOII.KTS. i
RnltnMo CniHiinirN for Trm rlor * on
Until StcnnifililliN Mini Tralim.
NI3W IYORK. April 29.Both the drws-
makers ana tailors tell you , on asking to BCD
their latest Invention * In railway and steamship -
ship dresses , that every woman who orders
o touring toilet Insists It must bo braided
carlo blanche. In conspqticnco the custom
lias arrived of decorating the cloth skirt
lightly with corded flgurlngd , but so loading
the coat or waist wllh braid that llttlo ot
Its original color In seen and double weight
and heat nro gained.
The majority ot skirts nro liked with gay
checked red and white , cool green and white ,
or striped silk shirts , and nro rarely accom
panied by closc-flttlng waists to match. A
complete costume consists ot a skirt and
bolero jacket , this last worn over a linen
Bhlrt waist or bodlco , that It more or less
fancifully decorated. A tailor who sincerely
haa your well being at heart would advise
you to get for touring purposes n toilet on
the model of the one sketched from an or
iginal In blue Ball cloth. Its chlcfcst rccom.
BLUE SAIL CLOTH.
mcndatlou la Us coat waist , with cape
alcoves , that slips on under anything you
may please lo wear , from a board bosom
shirt lo a chiffon bodice. As It Is tbo flrst
ot the bolero jackets to come over accom
panied by sleeves It can easily be guaranteed
a most affcctlonnlo popularity , for flrst of
all It Is a realisation ot supreme conveni
ence and comfort.
MODERN TOURING TOILETS.
Iy such wraps as thcsij the golf capo long
cherished by the traveling women has al
most , If not quite , disappeared , No t-apel
at all are carried any longer , and when
tlila llttlo bolero la taken off It may as fre
quently as nut reveal a delicately elaborate
waist s.iidernealh. Tliat Is because the very
T"edorn traveling suit consists of four pieces ,
a eklrt , a waist for morning wear , one for
evening use and a bolero coal. The morn
ing walal Is flannel , percale , linen or what
you may select , while with the original of
this pkeU.li was sold a waist meant to be
donned with the skirt of nn evening , when
the wearer in hotel or on board steamship
made herself ready for dinner.
The object of Ibis Is to supply Ihe Irav-
eler with a truly complete sull , so lhat when
touring ono gown , nnd one only , would sup
ply her with presentable toilet ! , for all proba
ble emergencies These Ideal costumes are
wrought out chiefly In the sail cloth men-
Honed , In foulard lhat IH brocaded , In coarse
dark shades of lutlite. In French volllne ,
which Is , In truth , only nun's veiling ; Is
cballls , silk warp mohair , barege of solid
lone and rough Newport serge and sea
twecda. To Ihosc who have a prejudice for
the goods , clcse-dgurcd India silks and a new
material called Pondlcherry silk nro excellent
and rccommendablo traveling goods , for tbo
effort Is to select something that does not
cnHi , or fade , absorb dust , or hold heat to
the body.
FOR YOUNG GIRLS.
For this last reason serge continues an
the favorite goods , and brown Is the color
preferred ot all others. A suggestion for
a debutante's voyaging suit Is given In brown ,
as nn example chiefly of o'lowlng Ibo ten
dency now followed for decorating these
rough-and-ready costumes oul of some of
their traditional severity of hue and color.
HLUB HOP SACKING.
Perhaps1 It Is needless to call attention to the
fact that the markedly blouse waist Is not
the least modish feature of the suit , and
that , next to braiding , strapping with black
eatlu bands ls considered In the best of style ,
{ tore the diagonal side rutllcu on the waist
are uf pUlted white chiffon over brilliant
red and yellow plaid silk , which last har-
inonltes with the plaid collar and girdle.
This cheerful girlish suit went off on Its
wearer's vacation to tbo New England resorts -
sorts , while the same day there sailed for
Kurope a typical costume for an ocean > oy-
ugu , since every steamer dress this season
partake * In a greater or lesser degree of
Ihe. elements of Ihe yachting sown. For
the steamer the skirt was a clear malachite
green challlo , figured In blue and white ,
end allowing a narrow satin stripe. Roll
ing over the bunt and shoulders fell ( wo
collars , the first of blue silk , the second
if brown batUte , decorated with lace , and
1
turning back from a sailor's vest ot ba
tiste , barred with loco Insertion. A bit ot
blue appeared on the sleeve , and the hat
that topped off this almost Ideal little frock
was a blue straw , English walking shape ,
and decorated but with a few folds ot > cdda
and a couple of green quills
Not again , perhaps , until the other Mi ores
were reached would this toilet , so delicately
hinting ot nautical adventures probably bo
worn , so that cynical women call them
dock or farewell gowns , and some of them
frankly array themselves for the trip down
the bay , prior to sea sickness and Ignomini
ous retreat , In costumes breathing of pure
ly marine sentlmtrit and cut. A charming
steamer gown that accompanied the blue
clmlllo had Its skirt and coat ot clear red
anil while tweed , banded with whlto braid
and the coat worn over a bodice of gray red
taffola , whllo the bright picture was topped
with a red and white hallor hat , showing
a fin-shaped bow of white ribbon
But thcso are liberties taken exclusively
by young girls , the more dlgnlflrd clement
clinging to some such model as the rich red
cloth suit showed , Its bolero cut In evening
waistcoat shape over a white board bosom
shirt. This especial red gown Is very well
covered In black braiding , and the maturcr
women with one accord avoid this season
Iho tinlrlmmcd sailor. With few exceptions.
Indeed , traveling hats are trimmed and
trimmed elaborately , for at last women have
come to on understanding that It Is as
easy to be as comfortable In a trimmed and
becoming hat when en route as In a bare
and trying one.
TRAVELING HATS.
Undoublcdly a boon are the traveling chapeaux -
eaux made to order to milt special gowns.
If. for example , you have a red , gieen or
1)luo sleamer dress , the milliner will weave
a brim of straw , build a crown of a bit of
one's material , and adjust wings , flowers and
ribbons to coincide with both. Sometimes
she will weave the brim of rough mohair
braid on a wlro foundation , while with ono
accord the ladles of qiialltj set forth on their
journeys this season gloved In the palest
tints. Whllo and the llghto-il tali dognkln
thrce-bullored gnnts nro tbo choice , and
they are li.tonded lo fit the hand as easily
as driving gloves , showing only the moat
Inco wplcuous stllchlngs. Here and there ,
where frivolity will out , a traveler ot youth
ful bearing and a slim waist appears In one
ot the now tourist bolts ot flexible gold ,
studded at Intervals with emerald pebbles ,
and having suspended from ono side a small
bead or gilt net purse , with a gate top catch ;
CBO ! a small v allet of v lolcl nioiro silk , bound
In gold.
If a capo la worn nt all when a-travellni ? ,
ono of scarlel-faced cloth It the proper gar
ment. II must fall In four or live rufllra ,
and every ruffle Is lined vlth clucked silk.
In black and white usually. Instead of a
capo though , by way of un extra wrap , a
Rtralan blouse Is regarded as far moro mod
ish. It buttons down from the left shoulder ,
gathers Ira at the waist , lo show oT ( a gem-
studded gilt belt , and falla only about two
Indira below the hip , hut as to Its watmth ,
no doubts can be entertained. Rough C'owci
scrgn and Maltese storm cloth Is what they
are made ot , lined with char scarlet ti ffeta
and allowed when belted In to blouse amply
round the waist. That Is , It literally overhangs
the belt , both at back and front , and the
very handsome ones are cul from pure cream
white mallcso cloth , heavily braided In gold
galoon.
But when weighty coats and capes are
laid aylde and the wandering American
woman sits down to her hotel or ateam-
shlp saloon dinner a different effect of trav
eling costume Is dlsplajed , for In place of
bolero or Russian blouse she wears her trav
eling bodice. Tor a brown dress It ta apt
to bo of brown batiste embroidered In corn
flowers and checked with corn Mower blue
ribbon , with the skirt of a maroon cloth ;
'tis all of white chiffon bagging , at back and
front , over n belt of lettuce green taffeta
ribbon and Iho collar and yoke of blue vel
vet. Then It Is she exchanges her high brown
shoes for strap slippers that reveal her nau
tical stockings , sea blue Halo thread all over
with minute white Ilfo preservers or anchors ;
brown , perhaps , showing scarlet crabs and
cloaked In cells of white cordage On deck
over the sailor hats , In place of the sewing
silk or chiffon veils batlsle sun proteclors
are worn , their chief virtue being that n
tubbing In Heap and warm water does them
no harm. It Is only fair to say that they
are pretty , too , coming In every Imaginable
color , with a row of lllllo while tucks along
the bottom , cut square or phape out like a
half moon to nt neally on nnj hat.
FOR YOUNG VOYAGERS.
As for the misses whose ( summers are not
numerous , yet often full of travel , the dress
makers have Blrlven and arrived at nolable
results. The lllllo woman of 12 summers
wears either a complete toilet de voyage , or
else a compromise In the form of a tweed
skirt that buttons on the right hip , and Is
absolutely plain , with a shirt waist llko her
mamma's , and over this a bolcroof velveteen
braided In black. This does combine all
the elements of childish comfort in dress ,
especially when the shirt waist Is of flannel.
A fair Idea of what a girl's traveling dress
should ho Is given In the sketch of a coslumo
having Its skirt of blue cloth with a waist
of the same braided In white , and showing
a vest of checked scarlet and white taffeta
silk.
silk.Thero
There Is nothing to wear or soil quickly
In a suit on this pattern , and with It the
girl wears a hat of dark blue panama , bound
round the crown by a scarf of blue yedda or
grass ribbon and showing a scarlet and whlto
wing lo one side NINA PITCH.
iiusn.vvus1 PAUI/TS.
Mr , HiToliiT'x Advice tit You UK Mar
ried IVoiiIc.
In willing of marital worries and pleas
ures Mrs Henry Ward needier said :
Did jou never tell your husband of aomo
great excellence of virtue In youi friend's
husband , purposely lo remind him of some
shortcoming or fault which you had seen
In his own habits or character ?
Do you over Ireat your husband , when
In company , with Inattention or Impudence ,
whllo you politely and coidlally accept the
attentions of other and less noble men ?
Do you over Impntlnnlly blame him In the
presence of ix ihlrd parly ? Whal woman Is
moro sensitive lo blame In Ibo presence of
olhcru than a husband when the censure
comen from his wife's lips ?
Arn you over cross and silent In your
own homo , with no ono to entertain you
but your husband , yet full ot Ilfo , wll and
amiability In company ?
Whllo It Is just that husbands should
listen and receive this counsel and by the
lesson It teaches endeavor to augment the
joya of home , should not wives also takes
Us truth inlo their own hearts ? Are we
not equally likely to trespass In Ibe same
way ? Aye , more no. Kor home Is our
kingdom , where wo may reign supreme If
wu have wisdom to hold the scepter with
a judicious hand.
I have icen young people begin Ilfo wllh
every promise of the most perfect hap-
plnesa , ypt make entire shipwreck of It all
by their own unguarded words , Impatient
looks and unrestrained tempers.
A talent for spicy and brilliant repartco
may enliven a party and give the highest
zest and piquancy to social Intercourse ,
endowing Us possessor wllh a certain posi
tion , enviable or otherwise ; but In the
homo circle it U a dangerous gift , and ,
unfortunately , more frequently bestowed
upon tbo vvlfo than upon the husband.
How often bavo we recoiled , as from a
blow , when hearing these who should bo
one In heart draw comparisons prejudicial
to their own companion and to tlio credit
of another , and we grieve to say that such
remarki are quite as often heard from the
wife as from the husband.
Do they over recall that when they gave
the marriage vow they took the care to each
other's honor and respectability Into their
own hinds to cherlsiy and destroy ? God had
made that bond BO Inaeparable that all honor
bestowed on the one passes over and is
ebarcd by ( lie other , and all disgrace or error
that Is charged to Iho one U equally injurious
to tbo ot'ier. '
I fully understand alt that U said of man's
I I i fc/i\f t/V > 4/lXj
rough , abrupt , overbearing ways. There la
too much truth In It. I think there Is.
naturally , ft llttlo spice of tjranny In every
man's composition , and perhaps from the
days of Queen Doss up to the present time
wo might find enough of the same quality In
our own sex to establish our claims lo sister
hood.
Hut , admitting that there are purely mas
culine elements , do wo not know how to
conquer or soften these uncomfortable and
undesirable rhfractcrlstlcs ?
By gentleness and love woman may , If she
will , assert her power and find men most
willing subjects. But arrogance and 1m-
patience will find rough and stubborn op
ponents. Man Is nowhere found so Irue lo
Ills natural Impulses as In thn sacred pre
cincts ot home. If ono would bo sura ot his
Iruo chnracler , go lo Iho domestic circle un
expectedly.
It la not when away from homo or In the
pursuits ot business or pleasure that one
sees him In natural condition. In the broom
of his family ho will bo found exercising his
Iruo spirit.
Thcro you will learn the strength of con
jugal ties , and there his true character will
stand before jou , glowing In excellence or
shrinking Into Insignificance
b II HIT WAIS'IS.
Him- They Mny lip rrpMlinipil niul
.Mil Altrnotli | i > In IjiiuiKlorlnK.
The shirt waist Is Inexpensive enough and
It Is within the reach ot every woman to
have n variety of them , so lhat she may
present a tidy , comfortable and agreeable
appearance even In the hottest days. It Is
dllllcult to got them properlj washed nnd
Ironed , yet the process Is simple enough
Careful attention to a few details will lesult
lu making thu shirt as fresh and attractive
as ever. If there are any unwashablo buttons
or trimmings , remo/o them , brush the dust
from the scams and throw the shirt Into
clear eold water for nn hour. If you are
afraid of the color running , add a hand
ful of salt. After washing In warm sudo
and drying It , make your starch by dis
solving a tablespoon of dry starch In a quart
of water. Thick cambric blouses should bo
only starched at the collar and cuffs and
down the front hem. To the starch should
be added half a teaspoon of gum arable dis
solved In water with a little borax. Wring
the shirt dry out of the rinsing water and
hold It by the back of the neck. Gather up
collar and cuffs and front hem and work In
the starch , after which wring these parto
In a towel and rub them thoroughly , roll ; up
tightly and leave them for half an hour , at
the end of which they are ready for Ironing
In the case of gingham or any half-trans
parent material , dip Ibe entire shirt Into hot
starch and wring It between a towel. Two
tablespoons of raw starch Into a quart of
boiling water , with a dash of gum arable ,
form Ihe proper thickness. Use the starch
as hot an possible , nnd when Ihe shirt Is
wrung dry , clap It between the hands unlll
It Is llioroughly cleared of the starch. It
must then be Ironed as quickly as possible.
Select the oldest , smoothest and cleanest Iron
you can find , poIHi it welt with a wax clolh
and lest the heat of It on a piece of whlto
paper before beginning to iron. First the
yoke , then the collar , Inside and outside ,
then the back , front and last of all , the
sleeves and cuffs. A shirt-board nnd a sleeve-
board are very helpful , and , Indeed , the latler
Is a necessity. It should be half an Inch
thick , flvo inches wide and graduated so
that It may fit any sleeve. Thla should bo
covered all over with flannel and again cov
ered with whlto muslin , sewed on firmly.
When the sleeve Is Ironed , stroke the gathers
with the fingers and again smooth the collar
and cuffs and hang the shirt up to dry. If
these directions are followed , the shirt will
look as well aa If sent to an expensive laun
dress.
iin.iio\s rou
Sonic RNtliiinti-M of Hie ( 'out of the
, I'llrMilcIn \ MV York Glt > .
A Now York correspondent says the Easier
paiado was the most extravagant display of
bonnets the metropolis lias over seen. The
vvrller gives Iheso figures of Iho cost of
Iho paiado in the country al largo :
There are 30,000,000 women In Ihe Unlled ,
Stales old enough to wear Kaslcr hats.
These 30,000,000 women spent $100,000,000
upon Easter hats. This places each hat at
an average of $3 33.
Many wore Easter hats that cost less.
Miss Poverty Row bought only a bunch of
violets , which she pinned on last year's
frame tola ! cost , IB cents. Miss Upper
Flat purchased a hat upon the bargain
counter nnd got a cheap wreath pltimo to
dress it out with cost , U 50. And some
bought no hat ut'all coM , absolutely noth
ing. Dul Mrs , Very Rich , on the next street ,
whosA back wlnJows looked Into the rear
ones of Miss Poverty How , purchased an
Easter hat , that cost $40. and that Is where
the matter evened Itself up.
Mary mien Lease would say ; "if one
woman went without an Easter hat It was
because eomo other woman had a hat that
coat tvvlcevtwlco as much as It ought to. "
But that U another story , and does not
affect the enormous figures that must be
thought out , when the Easter parade of
last Sunday Is figured.
Of the 1100,000,000 spent on hats ;
Tvventy-flvo million went for oslrlch
plumed
Flvo millions neut on bird of paradise
feathers.
Twenty millions were spent for ribbons.
Flowers cost $15,000,000.
The straw hats themselves footed up to
110,000,000.
Tbo labor upon the bob ) Is ( estimated at
$10,000,000 more.
The wire that was covered nllh velvet
ami twisted Inlo hats coat $3,000,000.
Birds , wings and other feathers cost
$6.000.000.
Incidentals , linings , trimmings , etc. , carnii
to $1,000.000.
The ostrich plumes cost one-quarter ot the
entire Easter outlay. The work ot get
ting thane plumes and the high price at
which thor can bo held year after jcar
la responsible for tbo expense of Ihe Hosier
hat. Oslrlch farming ls both uncertain and
expensive. The land In hold high In Cali
fornia and South America where the birds
can live , amY erCc'n when once secured the
ostrich Is a Hard \jlrd \ to raise. The feathers
must bo plucked when exactly "rlpo" or
they crack after being dried , and are use
less as far 'ris "high prices are concerned
In the natural state they are white , browner
or gray , and/ unlike the plumes of com
merce , until they are dried , djcd and sea
soned , and cilrleil , They bear no resem
blance to the original feather beyond the
fcathcrlncsa which is the charm of the
Easter hat.
The ostrich : plume ncls as a frame to the
hat , Just as the hnl framcn Ihe face , and
Its demands vjeani after year show HIP high
calccm In which It Is held by milliners and
women. Hlrd-ot-I'aradlsc plumes are the
costliest ot all lle-corallons for the money
and "pay" so welf | lhat the ladles of Krance
raise- them for pets and sell Ihe feathero
The cost of the ribbon begins , llko the
plump , at the animal that bears U , The
silk must go through all the processes o
manufacture from Iho tlmo It Is unwoum
from the cocoon of the silk worm until It
cornea inlo the mill ready for the weavers
Atler Iho silky fiber has gone Ihrougl
Iho mill and come out ribbon , yards am
yards long , U passes Into the hands o
thousands ot pretty , girls , who take it and
wind It upon wooden bolts , carefully layIng -
Ing a otrlp of paper In each revolution un
til U U wound light and harda roll ot
ribbon. In more modern mills , with windIng -
Ing machinery , they stand ready to feed the
paper strips to Ihe machine lhat turns nnt'
twists the roll of ribbon until It lies flat and
hard and smooth , ready for the shop counter.
The making of flowers la one of the moot
Interesting steps In , the manufacture of hots
that paraded en gorgeously last Sunday. This
Is done lu hack streets by men. women
and children , who lake homo the flowers to
make. They are mestly foreigners and do
the work at on valors' prices To get the
privilege of making the flowers and to ob
tain enough raw material to work upon Ihey
must deposit a considerable sum of money
wllh Iho flower manufaclurer which Is heli
as a guaranty that they will bring back the
materials made Into sellable flowers.
The moro expensive rosea and the silk
violets are made at long tables In the fac
tories by nil who can handle them deftly.
This Is work lhat the Chinese have long
tried lo get on account of their skill nt
BROWN SERGE AND MAROON TUAVEI IKG GOWN.
I handling smill tilings But the Greeks
have Jutblddcii Hrlo Chlne o on personal
grounds , and they do most of the work.
Men , women and children gather around
the lablcs , Ihe men and children handing
up Iho bits and the women wiring , sewing
and twisting them into Ihe wonderful
flowers lhat bloom on mv lady's hat.
The making of the hat frames Is remark
able , for It Is mostly done by bund Ger
man wire twlslers , with a marvelous fa-
clllly for turning the wrists quickly , lake
Ihe long slrips of silk-covered wire nnd
turn out a hat brim with lightning rapidity.
Those who have ever seen the ladles of
Berlin at work upon their wonderful beaded
passementerie , which the wealthiest of
them make for the shops , will appreciate
this almost slclght-of-hand with which Ger
man women twist the wire hats.
In good old colonial days , when Imported
servants were scarce nnd very dear , the
good old puritanical dames who were be
ginning to get a taslc for dress took care
to bring over none but workers upon wire
nnd weavers of silk and wool. And this
accounts for the marvelous creations In
millinery , which adoin the heads of our
grandaunts of a century ago.
Of the $100,000,000 spent for hata $1,000-
000 only went fop "labor. " This means the
labor of putting the hat together. The
girl who sat up late nt night for six weeks
before Easter poising the bird of paradise
upon the side of the English walking hat ,
so lhat It would float far behind my lady's
bead , who heaped ribbons at the back to
CIIALLIB.
make her Iho acmeof grace and style , who
atood bird vvlrga | In , profusion around the
crown lo glvo itljo iiat that exquisite ParisIan -
Ian chic , and stjjdjed every art of color to
place the ribbons juid How era so as lo win
approbation anfli dollars , got only Jl.000,000 ,
minus "Incldcntala/i' ; divided among thou
sands of her. TTlie statistician got down to
SO cents for trimming each bat , and slopped
for fear of gelling U too low If ho Investi
gated further.
Dul a girl can trim moro than ono hat a
day , so she is BatlafloJ. And eho works
willingly lo bring forth the brilliant plumage
which is tbo pride of the Easier parade.
Horace Qreeloy , lu ono of his addresses to
vvorklngmcn , shoned that a man , if he vvnro
to make his own watch , would work a life
time , The digging of the gold , the melting ,
refining and shaping , Ihn making of Iho ma
chinery and placing of It In the frame , and
finally the adjustment ot the watch , each
would require months of work and study.
Before completing tils watch he would have
to learn twenly-seVen trades and occupa
tions and to go Into forty-seven distinct em
ployments to the final polishing and burnish
ing of the case and the making ot the spring
to close It. Hut by division of labor ho
"makes" his watch In much less lime.
So with tbo Easter hat. The man off on
the ostrich farm , the dyer to the factory , tbo
rlblxin aeivcr , ( bo girl who winds , the
flower maker and the wlro twlitor , all work
Industriously , with the result that my lady
comes last Sunday queen ot Haster In a gor
geous pnxlucllon that she would nol have
produced herself had elio worked until too
bent and too old lo enjoy the sun nnd sky.
And that Is where the $100,000,000 went
that nero spent In last Sunday's hat parade ,
and no ono looking over Iho mailer and all
the good It did could think the money for
faster bats badly spent.
unit. . rmsT oxsn.
HiMtter AVoniitii Aiipnrn | 111 AHorney
lit I Criminal Court.
Mlrn Minnie iLlebhardt , the first woman
to serve In the criminal courts of Arapihoc
county , rocenlly conducted hep Prat case In
Iho West Side court before Judge Johnson ,
relates the Denver News. James Smith , a
youth of 17 , was on trial for an attempt lo
llberalo soma girls from , Ihe State Industrial
School for Olrls. Ho was a long way from
being the center of attraction In the court
room , however , as Iho fair attorney absorbed
moro than the usual attention. Prominent
attorneys dropped In during the day In great
numbers merely to experience the novel
sight ot seeing a woman In tbo chair usually
occupied by n man No one wna disap
pointed at the sight , however , but came
away well pleased 'Miss Llcbhardt Is an
attractive young woman ot pethaps 23 years
of age , and although court room experience
Is tomparflllvely new lo her she conducted
her case with all the complacency of an ex
perienced lllackslonlan.
Mosl of the morning was spent In the selec
tion of a Jury , and barring a few trifling
hltct'C' ) where Miss Llebhardt got her turn
to challenge mixed up wllh that of the prose
cution Ihero was nol much trouble In gct-
llng a Bal'afaclory ' list of talesmen.
H was brought out In the testimony that
young Davis nnd two oilier young men ,
afler laying numerous schemes and hav
ing n large amount of secret correspondence
with Theresa Sours nnd another girl In the
home , had decided to help them escape 01
the night of February 27. when they were
to bo taken to a deserted house called the
"Toll Gate , " several miles from Denver , on
Coal creek , Some of the correspondence
fell Into the hands of Matron Hauser , am"
aho compelled the young women lo go ahead
wllh Ihclr plans for escape. When Ihe
lime came to lenvo the boys were bagged
by Ofllcers Saunders nnd Klmmel , who hail
been notified by the matron and had ar
rived on the scene to catch the would-bo res
cuers.
Miss Llebhardt entered the court room
well prepared , for she had all the ques
tions she wished lo nro at each witness writ
ten out and read them off fo the persoi :
she examined In a loud , clear voice. Mosl
of the witnesses stood lu awe of the woman
attorney , nnd were very careful to glvo po-
lllo and full answers Detcclive Saunders
did his best to appear gallant , but would In
slat on saying "Yes. sir. "
Only once during the day did Ihe nllorney
lose her patience , and Dial was when she
v as examining L. W. George , a colored
guard In Ihe county jail It was from
George's slster-In-lavv llml one of Iho re
leasing trio , Wllber Dace , who gave his
name to the police aa Verne Davis , bor
rowed a screw driver belonging to George.
which wns passed up to the girls ns an Instrument
strumont to assist them lu prying off the
wire screen on Iho window , from which they
had emerged. Miss Llebhardt had bad a
conversation with George previous to the
trial , and It seems he was not able to tell
his sister-in-law then liv
her where - - was
ing. On the stand he denied lhat
he had been asked such a question , or
nt least be did not remember It. Miss Ltcb.
hnrdt flushed and rose lo her feel , saying :
"Do you realize lhat you are under oath
Mr. George ? "
Mr. George thought he did.
"la your memory always this short ? " con
tinued the young woman. George squirmed Ir
his chair and did not answer. Seizing the
screw driver , which lay on Ihe table , Ibe
altorncy waved It In Ihe air and lliunderec'
In aa loud tones as she could command : "Is
thai your screw driver , and If It Is , who len
It lo Davis ? " George hastened to assure
her lhat Ihe Implement was ? his and that his
sister-tn-law gave It to Davis Ho had for
gotten the laller'a address and lhat was one
reason why she did not appear In the cour
room. The fair defense was somewhat un
fortunate In having a number of her wlt-
nesaca on the abscnl list , and she requestci
an adjournment until she could secure their
presence.
WHAT TK > 1)01.1 , VII S WIM < WO.
far ( lit * Tnlilc from nn
l'\iort C'onK.
In the May Ladles' Homo Journal Mra S
T. Rorcr shows that a family of two with one
servant can live well on an expenditure of
JS a week for food in Philadelphia and the
cast , $ C In the south and ? 10 In New Eng
land. These llgures , she says , cover milk
flour , meat and marketing , as well as gro
ceries , and are based upon the presump
tion that the woman of the family Is a prac
tical housekeeper. "Last summer , " Mrs
Itorer writes , "I was superintending very
closely and carefully my own household ,
whldi numbered at the tlmo eight portions ,
and without the slightest dlflliully I ar
ranged an exceedingly attractive table with
an expenditure of only $10 per week , and ( his
covered everything used on the table , Ihree
meals a day. To do Ihla I purchased beef
by Iho loin , taking out tno fillet , using It as
a roast one day for dinner ; made stock from
the bones and rough pieces , quite enough
to last for half the week. The back was
taken oft and cut Into steaks , and tbo tough ,
lean end divided , ono portion liclng used for
Hamburger steaks * nd the other for a brown
stew with vegelablea. From this one loin ,
which cost ? 1.7f , I bad sufficient stock for
tin co dayti and meal for four dinners , freshly
cooked for each meal , making an average
cost of 44 ceuls a meal. "
Mrs Horer also states lhat a family of six ,
with two servants , "can live quite well with
an expenditure for the table of $14 a week.
Where people have sufficient means to live
aa thu world calls well , but which , from a
hygienic standpoint , Is really had , $500 n
yeai Is a very liberal allowance. On this , lu
winter , you may have an occasional dlah of
terrapin , providing you use the 'fresh water ; '
poultry at leant twice a week , an entice now
and then , oyslors and the moro dainty varie
ties of fish. The dinner may bo solved In
tbrco or four courses. Breakfast ma ; consist
of a fruit , a cereal , eggs or chop , mufllno
and coffee ; luncheon , a llttlo entree , HOIUO
well-cooked vegetables , and , perhaps , a water
mullln toasted , or a llttlo ft tilt with a light
cake ; the dinner , a soup , a meat with two
vegetables , a salad with wafers and cheese ,
a light dessert and coffee. Now and then you
may put In a llttlo entrco following the
soup. "
>
Kimlilon AutuM ,
Bracelet * are made In imitation of (
ilcycle chains , and there are several now
varieties.
Parma , hyacinth , cleinalls and wistaria
are beautiful shades of violet of which no
ashlonablo woman seems to lire ,
Venetian cloth In neutral tints , striped
with line lines of color , and shepherd's
plaids , are both on the list of fotiulonabie
cloths.
Swiss muslin Is suggested by the de
signers as being a very smart and effective
material for accordion-pleated summer
gowns.
Very few black lace dressca appear , and
when seen Ihoy are of Iho most costly and [
elegant description , heavy with superb Jel
garnitures , and made up over expensive
nolro Prancals.
Braiding embroidery , silk and satin folds , '
velvet ribbon , panels of silk and lace , all
lave an Inning at the tailor's , and lucks ,
figure largely lu the fashioning of cloth
gowns as well as In thin muslin drones.
Moire silk In black , white and colon Is
employed on tailor gowns for covering the
collars , revers and cuffs , and for a band
hreo Inches wide around the bottom of Ibo
skirt , with possibly a small pattern of
larrow braiding on the upper edge.
All sorts of exquisite llttlo neck decora-
Ions will take Iho place on summer lolleta ,
ot the Btlff military or slock collars , stand-
as and falling ruches of India muslin ,
silk canvas , lUse , chiffon , etc. , and little
urn-over collars and Paquln points of
white batiste and lace , which glvo such a
dainty touch to the gown.
Seaside- tailor costumes reem ta have a
pedal style all their own , and reveru , cuffs
and veat of white , or tome light-colored cloth
rimmed acrcea with braid , give the desired
ffcct. Whlto cloth well covered with braid
I different colors Is very much used as a
rirumloe for cloth gowns , and the plain
whlto cloth vest fastened with small told
buttons Nery good ulylo wllh omo of the
coils. Many of the cloth gowns with the
round , close-fitting waists MO finished with
pofltlllon ends at the front ,
A dimple gown In dark blue soft serge
shows a cravat nnd vest ot stamped noman
satin , The bodice U Utokecl on either cldo
of ( ho vest In two groups and again on thn
sleeves , nnd the skirt Is laid { n tucks around
Ihn hips Three bands of braid edged wllh
gold cord nnd fastened with goll buttons
form the belt ,
Ono of Iho Inlcst neck trimmings for airy
gowns Is a band ot lln < m battsto not tnuro
than an Inch and a half wide. This Is laid
In tiny folds with very narrow Valenciennes
Inco on each edge. In front and Just at the
back are polnta ot the linen with n medallion
embroidery in each point and lace at the
edge.
Plquo and linen sulls made by the tailor ,
with jaunty coals and plain skirts , are to
bo very much worn later on. Ilmldlng Is
applied on thtso dresses very much ns U la
on cloth gowtm. but many of them nro made
quite plain , with Iho revers faced with tome
contrasting color In pique , dull blue or led
on n white gown being very popuUr.
Nearly every new drrfa of thin material
Mill this summer bo made with th } cool
nlry outside fabric of the skirt cut separate
from Its silk , lawn or dimity lining. Many
women , however , object to this method of
the ground that a skirt so made rumplea
and gets out of shape far sooner than a
transparent material sewed In with each skirt
breadth ot the lining.
Wool canvas varies greatly In texture
Bomcllmcs It Is woven evenly ot soft , silky-
threads almost llko Kusslin net , and again
It Is coarse and wiry. Hlack canvas , gicia- ,
dlno and fancy net gonns nro milo over
whllo , and bright shades of red , green , blue
and yellow , and on very fashionable Trench
gowns over the most brilliant olnglo colors ,
mixed Iridescent shades and showy Tartans.
Tbo Victorian tie Is a craval of while
tulle , which Is most becoming when tied
under the chin In a hand'ome bow. It should
bo llghlly , though substantially , fastened nt
the neck , may be worn with any gown , and
Is becoming lo Hirstwllh mobile fcalurert.
The loops of the bows are spretd out fan-
shaped and form billowy waves ot tulle lethe
the right and left. About a yard and a half
o ! goods Is requited.
Daakct woven cloths In checks of two
colon are very pretty for the drtvisy UHor
gowns which are so very popular this sca3on.
The coat and skirt Is still the prevailing
mode of cut , but the Jaikels are very shorl.
In the iton style , or with a very short b.mquo
minim Iho flules In Ihe back , which were
so fashion ible last Mason. They are tight
lilting In the back , ellhor loose or close In
Iho front , and lht jacket , which Is used for
an outside- garment over the shirt waist , has
a loose fly front.
Ulack and whlto effects In gowning arc
quite as much Iho fnshlon ns Ihe rnse for
glaring and oulro color mixtures nnd are
a decided relief to the blaze of gorgeous
dyes used both In dress nnd inllllnoiy. The
black and white etrlped and checked fMks
and Jacquard liberty eatlna .ire well ropre-
Bcnted among Bummei textiles. Hlirlc lace ,
white insertion , rhlflon , accordion-pleated
frills , and blick velvet ribbon are used to
trim Ihcso gowns , also those of sheet while
wool and India nllks.
White gowns are to be worn more than
ever Ibis summer for Informal as well as
dressy occasions , and Ihese will be accompi-
ulpl by wl.Ho hats , parasols , and shoes.
With toilets of Chilli silk , foulard , organdy ,
French muslin , India mull , and the like , the
grealrsl elaboration and rlchnc&s are allowed ,
but In tailor costumes of white plquo , linen ,
scige , dltnlty , etc , the parasol Is of the plaln-
csl , simplest description , matching the gown
If possible ; the gloves of Ccnlor beaver , nnd
the shoes of linen with kid finishings.
Tor people who prefer thick cottons for thn
mountains and beach to lighter cottons or
wool" of any description are Ihls season set
forth some very pretty linen ducks , dimities ,
and piques. Some of the most attractive
have clusters of dainty little flowers or buds
showing on the corded surface ; others are
striped In charming eolor-contrasts ; blue
piques and linens are dotted In red or white ,
and pile green nnd tan grounds are lined or
spotted in white , but the smartest of these
maluri.ils are either all white or eiao barred
In palo blue , brown , red , or black.
Many of the models for summer gowns
have flat bands of velvet or silk on the skirt
or lace li sei lion sel In about four Inches
nparl. some of these showing a color con
trasting wllh that of the dress sol beneath
each row of Insertion. Tiny ruches of silk
outline HIP skirl seams , and wider ruches
Irlm the extreme edge of the skirt , adorn
the sleeves , and finish the diminutive
shoulder capo , and on other gowns accordion-
pleated frills ripple all over the dress fiom
the neck of the bodlco to the- bottom of the
skill The sleeve lops are a maw of tht
plcallngs and the llttlo Marie Antoinette
flchu or French pelerine Is edged with single ,
double , or Ulplc rows of the frills
1''cm in I no .Noli-H.
Mrs. St John , wife of the ex-governor of
Kansas , haa been appointed one of the
Board of llegcntfi of the Slale Agricultural
college.
Mme. Sara liernhardt has finished a bust
of M. Sardou , upon which she has been
working for many weeks past. The llkc-
ieB : i said lo bo slrlklng.
Miss BlrJ , a woman missionary In Persia ,
at a meeting recently made addresses to 354
IVralau women in ono day. She addressed
about 100 women and children at ono time.
Lady Henry Somerset contemplates' erect
ing a heroic figure of Christ out of doors lu
the heart of Duxhurst , her temperance vil
lage iti England. This Is commonly seen In
other tountiles , but entirely new to the Brit
ish Islu.
The czarina of Russia has made another
gift toward Iho fund for realdenllal qunr-
lers for women students at the St. Peters
burg Medical Instllule for Women. Her
last domtlon was 100,000 rubles.
Mrs. Russell Sage line two hnndsomo Mnl-
tcso rats named Malta and Mellta. They
are grrat pets and have the run ot the house
'
from top In bottom. .Mra. Sage hau hud
them since they were klllrns
Lady Henry Somersel la giving It ( .lures ,
Illustrated by stereoptlcon views upon "Tho
Industrial Farm at Duxhurst , Relgate. " She
Is constantly leLclving letters from distin
guished bishops and divines commiiullng the
excellonl work.
In Trance women have a monopoly on
bookkeeping In restaurants and cafes. They
ire well paid and have few expenses , their
meals being furnished by the restaurant and
n plain black drew ) being all tint la required '
In the way of toilet during working horns.
After tweiity-flvo years ot hard vvorK at the
Vienna opera and elsowhoio , Frail Materua
liaa asked for her pension , on thu ground
that whllo she Is still able to sing selections ,
\ whole opera Is lee hard a task for her.
Hie pension eho receives amounts lo 2.2SO
lorlna ,
The women do not possess full suffrage In
Kansas , but they secured more public olltcts
In thu last election than did Iho women of
Ulah or Colorado Iwenty counly Huporln-
tondonls of public Instruction and all the
jlllcer.s from mayor to thief of pollco In two
. It lea.
The will of Iho late Lady Walhco shows
that her personal estate was valued at over
(3,700,000 ( and the net value was } 1GOO,000 ,
> xcluslvu of the $5,000,000 at t collection which
ibo left to the British nation. Lady Wallace
uado several largo charllabln bequentti and
oinembered her friends -liberally , '
Mrs , John I ) . Henderson of Washington , pi
) . 0. , vvlfo of the ux-senator from Mlnoourl , pi
n addition to being a prominent nodal b
cader of Waablngton , Is a talented nrtUt , a
; reat btauty and a champion of woman uuf
'rage. To her Is accrt'illled Iho tutement
hat the majority of women of official clr-
'les of Washington are of Iho sainu oplnltn
Mrs , Agnes L. d'Arcambal of Michigan la a i
ihllanthroplst of rare merit. In Kabmaiuo ,
nany years Hgo , she visited the jail und thu
italo prison , In 1S72 elio began work for
llschargod prisoners , and secured a library
or them , enlisting the school children of i
ler city to earn money and buy bool.s for it.
iVIth their help she gathered COO volumes i
, ater idle cdablluhed a homo of Industry r
or discharged prisoners , which hau proved
if great value.
Mine. Paul , who Is a wonderful housewife ,
las a perfect passion for linen , Her rup-
toards are among the wonders of CralK-y-
ifos With Innocent coquetry , Caroline , her
althful uervltrein of thirty years' standing , >
las tloJ up the beautiful nets of sheets and
) lllow ctnea and towels and table cloths
ml napldna In pluk and blue ribbon , with
Ittlo upstanding bows , so the cupboard ,
vlien opined , resembles a Ilowt-r garden ,
Mrs W. M Marsh of Oroton , N. Y , la
hu oulworntm wiioso nU-uuturo uppeaib
ruornsson j. at. MUNYON.
Munyon's Modlcnl Institution , 1505 Arch
St. Phllmlelphlrt , Pn . Is the beat one of IH
kind In the world U empUiy-M n largo start
of skilled specialists to illit.iio'e the ensei
not only of pooj > U < npply IIIK porsouiUly fop
trentment , but ttiotto In nil p.uls of thn
country * vvho Bond In personal lettvis , lusk-
ItiR Iho best method * of being out id of
various tllso-isoM. Thousands or tlu p lol-
tori nre rocelvod lu the utrlotest cnniUli'iico
of from ten to Ilfteon ilootomatc dully employed -
ployod In dictating replies through the tuo-
ilium of as mnny stnnogmphrrs Thesn u > t.
tcrs nrer ccclvnl In the Ntilrtest oonlldcuni
niul promptly nnswiicd with the bent medi
cal mlvlco obtainable No iMTortvlll bo
spared to wco Hint ouch ease Is Ihotoiifrhly
diagnosed mid Ibo proin-r remedies to pffoet
n euro are proscribed , Kor thos ( < services
no fee Is expeoU-d Prof Munyoii i > uln up
n sipar.ite cure for enuli illsoime At nil
tlniRKlHti , mostlv M cents a vial.
Address Prof. Munyoii , 1501 Arch street ,
Phlhulolphln , Pa
The Best
Dressed
Mail
it not
necessarily
the most
expensively
dressed ,
There are ner
better
garments
nude than
NICOLL'S
MADE/TOx
ORDER
SPRING
SUITS
For From $15 to $40
Economy prices with a vengeance.
Samples sent out of town.
207 S. isth St.
Branches in all principal cities.
SS & HEAD NOISES CURED ,
r J WU JlJt TlflK fuibt na h 1ji hn til ! > ( tq
ETna'toF'.liiiTcniYo , fltnnnMf Y .forPo k A. invif i HEt
i HEALTH HEHEWS YUUTHFUL
i OVwi. ut > i iUlr.tO'ii 1UU "p.c. M.p. 1 > . .1 v ,
PATRONiZi
Y purchasing goods niiulo
at tin : fiillowinc Ncbr.is-
ka f.ictoi ics. Ifjoiicun-
nut ihul vvh.t ytui vv.int ,
coininiinicntc with the
f * * * niiiinifaotiircrs as to
w h a t lic.ilcrB handle
their goods. *
BAGS. BUItLAP AND TWINE.
HIMIS OMAHA IIA co.
Manufacturers of all kinds of cation nnd Imr.
ap uui.9 cuttun flur Backs uml twine a ipeo-
lufty CJ1 fir CIS 8. llth PI.
UHBXVKRlEfc.
OV1AIIA lllll < : \\'I.\U ASSOCIATION.
Car load khlpmetils mude l.i our own refrii.
iralor cara. U ue Itlbbon , IHIte Kxoort. VUnM
Exprt and ramlly Cxpnrt delivered ta all na'i. ,
it llu city.
IRON WOKK8
UAVlb .V COVVC.1I.L UIO.S UOUUJ.
Iron null UcuNk Voiiuiltin
Manufacture ! ! ! end Jobber * ot llncnlntry Utn.
/al repairing a .ixrclaltv. MliOJ \ und 1(01
Ackion itrre ; , Oinalia , NfO
I.MMJSI'IUAI. IIIO.N U'OHICS.
Manufacturing ani repairing of alt kin'is ot
machinery , en lnee , pumiifl. Kleial'jr * ur nttiR
prcsjrti , ImnKTs , shading uno ttiunmuti Hf * nnd
MO ? llcmanl HI. . Omaha.
I'AVJO.V A , VIKUMMi IllOIN UOIIKS.
ttlanufactuirrii oi ' . 's'llttcuirai ' fr u V\ork.
General roundly. Alacnmt am' Himkmnlit u ik.
inUn : ra mil Oiiitncioni for rii Proof HulM
Incs Oinri > inJ nnrkv IT. I * . ! t > . in < l 80.
"th "tre
FAOlOtllES
; . u. lvA s _ / . sniitr
COMIM.NV.
"xxluulv * cmtoin elilrl tailor * . 111 r rnnra
WAGONS AND CAitUIAQKS.
_
A. J. smi'so.v.
I Kill , 1 111 llnilKf.
Full line of ParrliiReH , IliiKnIci , IMnrlona , IVnjr
'arts AVIiccto rubber tlrcil 'iliu licut Is th
IJ.V11 AMI AAVM.MJ CO.
wnlngv. Tcnls Herm rovers , .llnns and
nullni T iili for rent Hnk'iioom < 13 South
llxtunth Miett Triri linn * < 0
33V13 AVOHK8.
TWIN orrv i > ri
1YOIIKS , 1.TJ1 l > 'llrlilllil HI.
nyclnc uinl clrunlni ; of Kornicnts nnd K ods or
very description , Ucanlns rf flm garments u
pofjnlty. _ _ _ _ _ _
n bank hills This Imppiirs brcnu o she la
lie prtsldLiil of llu > Klrst National bank of
Iroion , clolni ! u very larKO bimliicBB with
uriiorftlons anil private Individuals. In art-
Illoii to iiurforniliiK the duties of bank prca-
linl Mra. MurHh In tbo bend of the Orolon
'ypowriling Machine company , Irennurt-r
nil director of the Oroton CarrlaKo torn-
any , and the loving vvlfo of a loving Imi-
and ,
1'rlnceas Marie of Denmark , the Blster-ln-
iw of Iho princess of Wales , Tia been pro-
snlert by an American gentleman , Jl AV
ampbell , wllh a naddlo , uald lo bn the finest
t-cr made In tli9 United Slulcs The iieatlnn
of whlto buckskin nnd IB boautlfully em-
roldcred In colors. The cmhioldcrey IB a
jprcsentatlon of the fleur de MB of Franco
ml thu while rene of Denmark , Moro tlmii
ilrty hands were employed for three months
constructing the saddle I'rlnctws Marie
Iliu nleco of Iho lalo Cointe de I'arl1 * and
married lo DID youngest ( .on of thu king
Denmark.
Princess Christian , thu third daughlcr of
ucen Victoria , U npoclully liileriKttd In
in London raKKi'd ncliools and tbiilr out-
iiu. ; A cottage baa beta ercctwl on the
irdcTH of Iho great park , Windsor , Iho
icon giving Iho land , which la called I'rln-
H * Christian's holiday homo for hojo. It
surrounded by play urounds , kitchen , gar-
} n and orchard The house In arranged for
lu aicommodatlon of twilve boys nt a
me. Kach lus a Hoparotu loom and two
iltH of dotlifo for use during lila Htay of
to wteks , It Is hopnd eventually to ke p
ic cottaL'O opeu throughout Uiu year.
