10 THE OMAHA DAILY BlJ : SUNDAY , MARCH 21 , 1897.
i < i\ ) § < i\S ) < irXSiN ( = > \
i ! IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
Tp.
k
SIMIING , SIIOI'I'INCI.
Pnrmlnr TOUCH nnil 13T | til llc Xorcl-
lleit In Aliiiiiiliinoc.
NEW YORK , March IS. Hero wo all are
In windy March , the snow on our umbrellas
and our noses pink from the chilly breeze
shopping llko mad for garments It would
cost us our precious lives to wear. Dia
phanous French Bilk linens , for making over
glace petticoats , and fit only for a ther
mometer registering 80 degrees ; canvas hats ,
light as thistledown , glorying in diadems of
such Held flowers as only bloom naturally
under a July sun , and parasols , flounced
with doubled petticoats of dotted mull clear
up to the ferrule ,
IJut really thla U all genuine haymaking
while the sun of fashion shines , or rather
skimming the cream of things before the
vulgar herd rushes In. The woman Is made
of something more than ordinary weak hu
man flesh who can sit at home , her purse
shut tight , while every morning brings a
fronh and enchanting panorama of tempta
tions In the shop windows and on counters.
Even tlioso "who run down the aisles of the
big dry goods houses can plainly sco that
almost every material Is molred. This
watered strlpo used to be the feature of
Bilk fabrics alone , but now the wools have
caught the pretty Infection , and some of the
most striking tailor suits are made of volllno
that looks like an all wool bengallne , richly
watered. No dress goods Is now considered
In better taste for even the most elegant
toilets than the novelty-checked poplins , with
broad , watered effects , and every roll of
new ribbon Is the glittering molro wo wore
EMBROIDERED LINEN.
live-years ago. 'It has no-fancy edge , one Is
pleased to relate , and the latest Importation
In-fabrics , elnco last week's gossip In fash
ions , wag written. Is the Parisian slllr linen
above referred to.
8,0MB EXQUISITE NOVELTIES.
Urown batlsto Is the actual foundation of
this 'material , Interwoven with silk stripes
fn an open unesh , but a contrastingcolor. .
Some examples of this new weave show the
silk strlpo divided from the linen by a very
narrow lace line , nearly all of the- examples
so far exhibited display embroidered dots and
vines .In whlto on the alternating bands of
palo blue and silk and ecru linen , or scarlet
linen and ecru silk. Out It one's soul does
not yearn over tteso frilly , crisp breadths ,
thcro Is a novelty to attract on the cloth
counter , a light weight , perfectly smooth
faced cheviot , woven in small six-
sided squares of green and brown ,
Ideal for a spring suit. Rubbing
elbows with this , In excellent new
shades of pavement gray and plno bark brown
Is a comparatively new French wool weave ,
under the very non-descriptive title of 'etln-
cejle. In this case , however , the name Is
of ilo Importance , and the bearer of It Is llko
an Ideal summer's weight camel's hair , If
that- can bb Imagined ,
Every week In the least-expected placjs
npw manifestations are evident , and Just a
few days ago the last consignment of foulards
canle from the foreign mills , all damasked
oyci' In the most dellcato half-skeleton pat
terns. Undoubtedly that wan a good Idea
of the weavers. The damasked figures are
Iir-oxactly the same ehado at ) the back
ground of the goodH. and then on the green ,
a
of
of
of
( >
I1LACK AND WHITE SUIT , J"
- . lo
dahlia red , gray or brown eky the big , splashy m
uiuugnt out.
Absolutely without exception the skirts of
tliBjo and every other bummer material are
made heparato from the under petticoat , and
the whole effort alms toward draping the top the
skirt on Its foundation to simulate a deep
, rutlle. This brings about the most varied
and certainly admirable doalgni In skirt so
decoration , nearly all of which Ilo about tbo a
hlpa or range from above the knees up. of
A FJtBSH MODEL.
Take a look , for 'Instance , at the dahlia for
colored foulard In tbo sketch. In every way
thla gown might , from collar to limn , serve ot
a.3 a text to preach an entire sermon on
fashlonu fiom. If you plucked up the bet
tom for a peep at Interior arrangements you
would find , Inside the silk foundation , a beui to
a foot deep , turned and braced with French
haircloth. Also Inside would be seen throe
very narrow , very full , bias silk dust rulllcs ,
bound along their edges with bias velveteen. ble
Their mission seems to bo that of protecting
the skirt's edge , giving a bouffante aud to
dainty effect at tbo feet and warding off dust. In
The damafk foulard top skirt , well figured U
In cream white , U enhanced , just midway
between knc vj and hips , by a band of whlto
satin , overlaid with prettily figured black silk
muslin , edged by a fine quilling of black
silk muslin ribbon , that has a narrow satin
edge. By the two of thla band the skirt la
so divided as to give the lower half all tbo
appearance of a deep peant flounce , growing
full and airy at the back , The upper portion
tion fits the hips rather snugly , and on some
of the new gowns this band > ls replaced by
rows of corded gathers , over which the upper
half of the skirt pouches a little. Ono very
pretty petticoat has soccral rows of lace
beading Inserted whcro the satin band ta
laid anil narrow rlbboni , lo exactly match
the various colors In the foulard , run througl
the beading and are tied in full rosettes at
the side.
Not yet have we done with the pouching
waist front , as plainly showed by bodice ol
thlo gown. In common with so many ot the
last Paris fabrications , the front of the waist
Is all ot cream whlto tutln , fitting over the
bust without a wrinkle , hooking up umlci
the arm and on the left shoulder. Upon this
Is draped a pinafore front , made ot foulard
with thrco narrow , long crescents cut from
It across the bust and filled In with figured
black silk muslin , Slightly pouching In
front a folded scarf belt of whlto aatln glv s
the wal.it line finish , while over the slightly
puffed tops of the close-fitting sleeves fall
handkerchief points of silk iniMlIn , edged
with quillings. Over tb ? foulard back of the
waist , from the handkerchief points , a slm-
plo drapery of muslin folds down to the hoti
torn of the basque and then lets fall upon the
skirt , two short leaf-shaped sash tabs , edged
all about by the pretty quilling. Such short
tatw , on ths very smart costumes , have taken
the place ot long , orthodox saahes , that
promise to bo early vulgarised by too gen
eral and enthusiastic adoption , and this suit
Is an exemplification of the fact that whlto
lace , in an abundance , is to bo used in all
neck decorations ,
NECK DECORATIONS.
So far thcro Is nothing actually novel
to chronicle of collars. The drc 3maker
rather loaves this point to the taste ot her
customer , Insisting on nothing and giving
this ono an old-fashioned stock , that ono
a stern high plain tailors' band , turning
Inco tabs , but only allowing a slender vis
age to endure the delicate lace or silk mua-
lln bolulloucs under either ear and full at
the back. Though It Is perfectly true that
the bell-shaped skirt Is our destiny through
out the summer , and In behalf of the light
goods that so lend themselves lo spreading
bouffanto grace , a modified umbrella pattern -
torn is going to bo used by women who led
In fashion ,
A case In point Is the black silk mull
gown displayed. It Illuitratcs two laws of
spring dressmaking , that every skirt. In a
light goods , must be flounced , and that a
flounce laying any claim to modernity must
bo cut on the bias. Thin lovely toilet Is
built of a perfectly new mull , checked with
a black silk line , and every flounce edged
with an Inch wide footing of black silk mus
lin. All this cool , stately beauty is draped
over n cohlen-brown taffeta , the mousquo-
talre sleeves banded with narrow bronze-
brown velvet ribbon ad mlrolr velvet , of the
same shade , forming the girdle and collar.
On the simple waist a band of figured silk
muslin appears and a touch of cream point
d'Alencon at the throat relieves the airy
gloom of thU very dellcato suit , meant to
b worn with the very gayest of hats.
CHARMING HATS.
It Is on the hat where color , and plenty of
It , shall como in this season , for In tailor
suits one of tbo leading combinations Is
black and white. The trying severity , yet
undeniable effectiveness , of thisarrangement
appears In the spring walking suit , that will
servo only as a snare and a false friend to
any "but tha most sllmly built woman. Un
fortunately stout , short individuals will fall
a prey to It , for the tailor looks aghast If ho
Is asked to make a coat with the least
shadow of a shade of tall. By way of 1m-
menso concession , ho will , If driven Into a
corner , glvo one a short , or very long , pos
tillion tabs behind , but It Is rank hereSy to
Insist on a blessed bit of curtaining over the
front and hips. The walking suit sketched
shows the now tailor-made accordion skirt ,
of rich satiny-surfaced black ladles' cloth.
This skirt is laid In sunray plaits. That Is ,
deep and close at the top and broad and shal
low at the bottom , It Is hung separately
on a silk sham , and U topped off by a Jacket
of white ladles' cloth decorated a le mlll-
tnlro. with black silk braid , while a full
Jabot of lace falls from tbo throat. Exceed
ingly smart variations on this are made In
fiklrtfl of black worn with green cloth coats ,
heavily braided In brown , or black skirts and
coats of Ophelia purple ladles' cloth , braided
In black and tinsel. The sleeves of the new
est coats are cut with a most Infinitesimal
fullness at the shoulder , and later on coats
llko this will bo thrown open In front , to
exhibit shirts ot scarlet percale and linen
twill , brightened by wee black orwhite
polka dots and showing broad box plaits
down the bosom. White turn-over collars
and whlto cuffs distinguish this rather vivid
linen.
POPLINS AND LACE.
So far the only direct use wo will appar
ently have for lace Is to decorate the molred
popllim referred to before. It seems to be
decided that lace , Is their ono affinity in the
way of trimmings and heavy ecru batiste
Inco , now made with wondcrtul fineness and
beauty of design , is the appropriate species.
On a clover llttlo toilet complete for a
spring trousseau the watered poplin was In
ono of the novelty shades called silver blue ,
deep , almost sapphire , tint in the folds ,
changing to silver white on top ot the creases.
An ecru batiste lace flounce was , by bou
quets ot blue baby velvet ribbon , caught
to the skirt ten Inches below the hip line ,
and tbo waist , unrelieved save by a shoulder
bertha formed ot thrco falls of lace , had
Its front done on a Parts mode , than which
there Is nothing moro recent. That Is gathQI
oral and drawn In full horizontal wrinkles ,
across the bust to fasten under the loft '
arm. Those wrinkled fronts are Invariably
accompanied by full gathered mousquotalro
sleeves that now frequently have a narrow
frill ot lace gathered the length of the out-
sldo seam. NINA FITCH.
, ( ) ; : vl' v AMONG WO.IIKAT.
Mfi > IiiHiirnncu Cnmimiilt'M Have
GluuiKi-il Tlu-lr Attitude.
Pet Imps no bettor example of the con
stantly Increasing and recognized Importance
woman In the business world could b ?
cited than t'ao ' absolutely changed attitude
all leading Insurance companies toward
her Interests , Until qulto recently women
were considered a very much less desirable
risk than men , nnd the married woman , en
joying the shelter and protection of a home ,
was for perfectly obvious reasons thought to
represent a very much leas good chance
than the single woman , who feels herself
obliged to go to business In all extremes
weather and all conditions of health.
In ls the experience of Insurance com
panies , however , that the mortality among
women Is not greater than that umong men ,
Indeed , after the age ofIS , women llvo
longer on the average than men , and It Is
not absolutely proven that oven before that
age the mortality Is larger. That Is mill a
matter of conjecture , and the companies are
watching and comparing statistics with the
greatest Interest and care. However , with
average after 48 so decidedly tn her
favor , the best companies have felt them
selves Justified In leveling all distinctions ;
that , Instead of paying $5 more premium
year than a man , as. formerly , a woman
any ago , married or unmarried , can 'now
take out all the Insurance that she can pay
at exactly tbo same rates and under the
same conditions as a man. In the Inspection
circumstances there Is , however , this
difference. It a woman Insures ber life In
favor ot her husband , she Is obliged to ans re
wer a Hit of "supplemental questions , " oa ot
whether his life U Insured , what his in otSr
come is , etc. , and both bit business and dr
moral records are thoroughly Investigated.
pr
ThU la , of coursf , to guard against any possi da
future temptation ou the part of the of
husband to sacrifice tils conjugal affections fn
bis cupidity ; and If any ot the facts point Uf
tbo most remote way to suspicion the rluk In i
rejected ,
re
Tbo competition between rich aud power- rewi
i i i I i
ful companies has led also to the removal
of many other restrictions aa to occupations ,
manner ot death , etc. , as well as to the
adoption of certain now features very much
to the Advantage of these who wish to pro
vide either for their own old ago or for those
who shall como after them : for while life
Insurance formerly meant exclusively money
to bo paid over to some ono else after the
Insurer died , Its most popular form today la
that which , whllo providing for this con
tingency , also offers several different oppor
tunities for guaranteeing a future Income
without any possibility ot losa to old ago ,
when the chance or Inclination to work lifts
gone , in fact the leading companies ot today
operate exactly llko a great savings bank ,
that , besides paying a goo-1 rate of Interest
on the money Invested , oftcr the additional
advantage of paying over a fixed Bum to any
named beneficiary In case of oneVj death.
For Instance , for from $30 to $50 a year , ac
cording to the age , a woman may take out
an endowment policy for 20 years , at the
em ! ot which tlmo she will have something
llko $1,500 paid over to her ; and should she
illo , ; in the meantime the $1,000 will bo paid
to the depcud-ent relative whom she may have
chossn ,
An act has been very recently adopted
to do away with what has always been the
most objectionable feature ot Insurance for
bath men and women , the ono thing that has
iloubllrsa . deterred moro people from Insuring
their lives than any ottur consideration ,
The companloi have decided to themselves
foreign trav l , ' Jand together they
traveled arounii , Uie entire globe.
They have ttrbcautlful home In ParU filled
with art treasures and souvenirs of tholr
Interesting Jourriovs In Japan , Egypt and the
Orient. ) , ,
Mlsa ftogerg. has a clear , rich soprano
volco of marvelous volume and Intense
dramatic expression. In the role of Dallla
she has the best , opportunity perhaps of
showing ber power as an actress , as well as
a vocal artlsty and It wan this role which
nude her the sensation ot the hour In Milan.
PA m Ki.invuit ni.STii.usits.
A lYcw Industry AmongFntliloiinlilo
New \ rk Women.
"It Is all on account of the bubonic
plague,1' says one charming girl , "you know
It may travel from India to New York , and
It Is a well known fact that during the Lon
don plague all .workers In perfumery fac
tories oscnpcd the disease. "
Let mo toll you n secret Just bcre. There
Is no better wash or lotion for the skin than
the products of tbo still room , and If you
superintend the manufacture yourself , are
you not sure of their purity ? Apropos to
this , the face preparations now moat In vogue
In Paris are composed of crushed flowers and
seeds a combination of the palo roses of
Lebanon , vervelno of Clrcassla and many
other sweet-scented flowers that grow be
neath the canopy of heaven , all natural ele
ments , that help us to retain our perennial
freshness and beauty without tbo help of
paint or ccfmotlc.
However , whether or not the bubonic
plague Is responsible for it or their com
plexions , fair maidens are devoting hours to
their stills ami storing tholr minds with the
literature of the subject.
Ono of the stills used la connection with
thla work Is curious and Interesting , being
nn old alembic of the pattern used as far
back as the fifteenth century , sketches of
which are to be seen In rare old black letter
books on distillation , , to which the coterie
lias recourse for many of Its recipes , The
work really entails much work , thought and
research good Lenten dlsclpllno this also
A DAHLIA FOULAHD GOWN. I ,
provide against the hard necessity of an In
dividual losing all that he has put In pr-
haps at great sacrifice on account of being
unable through some sudden misfortune to
pay bis premium when due. They have
established a sort of loan Institution , whereby
the Insurer may borrow from the company
with his policy as security , an amount al
most equal to what ho has paid In , at a rate
of Interest loss than the legal rate , pay his
premium , and perhaps extricate himself
from the difficulties , and then pay back the
amount as to any other creditor.
In the endowment policies there Is a
provision for withdrawing , after a certain
time , what one has paid In , If stress of cir
cumstances make It necessary ; but In this
case ono must sacrifice ber Interest.
An agent of ono ot the strongest com
panies in the world saya that a largo and
constantly Increasing number of women are
taking advantage of these 20-year endow
ment policies , and that they are mostly
housewives and mothers. liy thrift and care
almost any woman can manage to save out
of her household money $50 annually , or a
smaller sum aeml-annually or quarterly ; and
f she takes out this endowment policy , say ,
when her llttlo son is 2 or 3 years old , by
the time be is old enough to go to college
or Into business , there Is a snug little lump
sum upon which to make a start ; or It may
JO a comfortable llttlo dowry for a daughter.
It has gone 'n llttlo driblets well worth the
sacrifice , and comes back a palpable sub
stantial amount. Meantime If the mother
lies , there Is an assured education for the
children.
AX AMISIIICAX SINJI2H.
SUe IlnllH from tlie AVcst nnil linn
Mnile a lilt Alirnnil.
Miss Delia Rogers , a young American girl ,
a creating a sensation abroad by the rendi
tion of leading roles in grand opera. She
made her debut last winter In St. Poters-
jurg as Carmen ntter two years' study In
.
Milan at La Scala , and then created two
great characters in opera , Ratcllft by
iluacagr.l and Andrea Chcnln by W. Qonlfino.
ihe Is traveling this winter through the
Oriental countries , and next autumn will
BELLA ROGERS. r
turn to America , having already made most
her plans for a starring tour on this side , I
le U excellently fitted In physique ( or
amatlc roles , being tall and beautifully
oportlonod with a well poised bead and I
tlnty but clearly cut features. Like many I
naturo'a finest human creations , she halls
om the west , having 11 ret opened ber eyes
ion the world some twenty-two years ago
Denver , Colo. Her education has been
celvod mainly abroad , tier mother being a
Idow of great wealth with a foaduejn for
much skill and care In the distillation and
compounding.
Attars of rose , lavender and orange flower
are obtained by distilling with water , after
ward being separated from the water by a
tap funnel a.nd then filteicd.
Hcijldes distillation odors are secured by
tbo process of inllowerlng or maceration ;
square glass frays are used for this and the
care which Is taken of these name glass trays
! s only second to the care a woman bestows
upon her Jewel casket. The trays , which are
framed with wood ' about three Inches deep , ch
are spread over 'with grease , half an Inch
thick , In which ridges are madeto facilitate of
absorption ; this Is eprlukleJ with the flowers
roio petals , jasmine , lavender , tube
rose , hyacinths , violets or whatever you will an
three pounds of flower petals to ono pound VC
of grease. The trays are piled up ono above del
another to prevent the evaporation of the tlo
aroma and -finally all Is taken from the Is
tray , melted and strained. For hungary IsVO
water , rosemary Is tbo foundation. This , by an
the way , was the first extract ever made , and
by Elizabeth , queen of Hungary , who ob
tained the rcclpo from , a hermit , and by Its tie
use sbo Is said to have preserved ber beauty voi
to old ago , on
Such books as "A Treatise of Commodious laa
Conceits" and "Yo Doko of Dlstyllaclon" are a
much In request by these fair flower dis tin
tillers and If something new and wonderful on
In sweet scents Is evolved none of their
friends will bo surprised or possibly some cas
youth-rejuvenating water may be compounded d'u
by these enthusiasts which will prove the
greatest boon to our complexions. ,
I.ATK STYI.nS IX lMIIIItrIIAS.
.StrikingovrKlcH : .Seen Amoiif ; ( lie
Sprint ; ImiiiiHntloiiN ,
Umbrellas are displaying qtilto as jnany
departures In style as articles of attire , sup
posed to bo moro distinctly modish. The
latest edict Is that the umbrella must al
ways match the gown and tailor made women
are having umbrellas made up In Just tbo
shade of tholr street gowns a costly fancy ,
but surely a pretty one to bo commended for
these who can afford It. A purple tailor
gown requires an umbrella of nurplo silk ,
lined with silk of a palo canary color , for the
lining of the now umbrella Is always of a
different shade. A green pown demands an
umbrella of sapphire , lined with turquoise
and so on.
In the matter of handles there are still
greater novelties , The Jeweled ones are more
elaborate than eycr , but newer than these Is
the handle mailp.to represent the head of on
animal , Faddliu women are greatly taken
with the bcadsjilc \ \ \ represent the heads
of do pi and capi , ( vjul which are always made
after a strikingly realistic fashion.
Daintier perhaps are tbo handles made In
the form of | mal | | bonbonlcros , which tbo
younger womenfnrji , particularly pleased with.
It Is said to bo/iuartlcularly diverting when
ono Is loft alone with one's umbrella to be
a bio to open tho-hapdlo and extract a sweet
meat , j i
SHE IS ' 'A''illO.VHY . .MAlUIIt.
g
Mils ' ' ( - ' < iiiic TIiroiiKli Her
) i\i > l3Ti ( > rlN.
Mary Ann Di cWnbo of Stapleton , S , I , , Is
ono of the most' ' remarkable women In Amer
ica. Horn in a llltlo frame house at Gordon
and Broad street ? , ( Staplcton , fifty-six years
ago , she began yj } nt 12 years of ago as maid MU
of all work , receiving as wages but $15 a
year ; yet from this humble beginning she has
succeeded through her own , unaided efforts In wit
amassing a fortune of over $500,000. to
She lives In a modest house at tbo corner vie
of Gordon and Uroad streets , Stapleton , on on
the site where she was born , "My maiden Its
name was Mary Ann McDonougb , " she said km
to a reporter the other day. "My father was kmA
Thomas MoDonough , a contractor of Richmond law
mend county , and during his llfetlmo I did toll
not want for anything. When bo died I was alri
still a young girl , but it was necessary for pre
mo to flnd work or starve , as ho loft us very Ing ;
poor , AC first I was paid only $2 a week , but If c
put my whole heart and soul Into learning ma
to do ! work until the time
piece by I was 17 tba
years old I made on an average $11 a week , tbaS
eavcd a great deal of money. For five years S
worked as factor } ' girl1 flov
Mlta McDonougb was married before sbo Ind
was 20 years old , but ber huabaml died after ate
two children were born. She then began akli
work as n washerwoman. All the time she flou
saved money , and married again. She con fro :
tinued washing for wage * end limited her Is
tarings In real e Uto. She was BO success-1
ful that ono of her brothers Intrusted her
with tola savings to Invest , and the Invrat-
monts yielded abundant returns. She now
has sixty-five houses and neb ono of them U
Incumbcrcd by a mortgage ,
Uy her second marrlago Maty Ann Baa-
combo has six children , so that she la the
mother ot eight children , all ot whom are
living.
She Is a model landlord , Said she ! "When
a tenant comes to mo and says , 'Mary Ann I
haven't the rent this month , ' I do not toll
him to look for lodgings elsewhere , but I ask
him If ho hac plenty to cat In the house ,
or la In need of any money. When that man
leaves mo lie no longer looks upon me ns his
landlord , but as his friend , and ho will slave
Ills fingers to his bono wlicn ho does get work
In order to pay mo my duo. You see , I am
a believer In the honesty of the poor. "
Whenever a tenant needs advice ho has
only to apply to Mrs. Uascombo. If a father
Is In doubt as to what trade to apprentice
hla eon or a mother la uncertain as to a ca
reer for her daughter Mary Ann Uascombo
settles the question. If a tenant lias money
to Invest Mary Ann's advice Is Invariably
asked. She Is not only the landlord over her
tcnanUt , but she exercises a direct Influence
In their lives , even drawing tip wills and
having their lives Insured. The Insurance
policy Is made out In her name with the un
derstanding that she will pay the examina
tion fees and nil the dties. When the person
Insured dies Mary Ann collects the policy ,
pays the funeral expenses , takes out what
she has advanced and remits the balance
to those entitled to It. In paying dtica on the
lives of tenants t > he has Insured she spends
about $1,000 a year out of her own personal
Income.
I'nslilon Note * .
The softest shades of tan arc correct for
gloves now that wo have so much color lu our
gowns.
Russian belts of gun silver , cither plain or
glided and Jowclod , are a novelty In dresa
ornamentation.
Jeweled otldlzod " buckles and silver
buckles set with turquoise arc very popular
as well as all the varieties of Russian en
amel.
There Is a perfect furore for accordeon-
plalted ruffles for the neck , bodlco and
slccvca , and also for tbo entire decoration ot
evening toilets.
The hardy Scotch cheviots hold a very fa
vored place this season among popular dress
fabrics to bo used for cycling , traveling and
walking costumes.
The advance parasols which will bo used
next summer nro "tho sunburst" made of
accordcon-plaltcd silk orsatin , frequently
covered with white accordcon-plaltcd tulle.
An organdie dress with fifteen rows of nar
row ribbon around the skirt , beginning at
the bottom edge , and the width of the rib
bon apart , Is a decided novelty In dress trim
ming , but It la very much In evidence this
season.
The collar band with Its decoration has
been a prominent feature ol fashion for
some time , but now the latest models have
qulto plain collars , with a very modest frill
of lacs or chiffon at the bauk or two pointed
tabs of velvet or silk.
Fancy buckles are a vciy Important olo-
mcnt of dross just at present , and , while
they are In all sorts of shapes and. slzco ,
ono of the prettiest styles for the narrow
belt Is In the form of two large enameled
and Jeweled buttons * claspe-1 together.
lllbbon belts are In various widths , as they
are most becoming to the figure , but ono of
the latest varieties la made of liberty satin ,
cut bias , and draped around the waUt In the
fo m of a wide-pointed girdle at the back
and narrowing to two Inches In front ,
The surplice effect , or any other crossed-
ever model , Is rather leading the persistent
llttlo bolero , and In some Instances the sur-
pllco bodice has long scarf ends of lace , or
material trimmed with lace , falling from the
belt at the point whcro the waist fastens.
Thet new straw hats are In red , magenta ,
mauve , heliotrope and various shades of
green , but yellow , gray and black will bo far
more elegant when , the summer Is really
hero and wo have had tlmo to weary of
all the screaming colors which are so con
spicuous now.
Ono very pretty costume shown la of
apricot-colored cloth , made with a bolero
which has a white satin lining and rovers
Hashed on tlio cdgo with silver galon. The
belt Is of whlto satin , with rhlnestono
buckles , , and the vest of whlto lace frills ,
which also edge the rovers.
A simple but stylish gown of dark blue
dimity with a scroll pattern of whlto Is made
over plain blue dimity H-lth ono lace-edged
rufllo at the bottom , Insertions of whlto lace
dti
around the sleeves and bodlco , which Is
flo
finished on the side , where It opens , with a
nn
frill of lace edging.
Jaunty llttlo capes which reach just below
the point of the .shoulder . are made of three tn
overlapping frills of accordcon-plalted black up
chiffon , with three satin stripes on the edge , cb
sown ' on black nut or taffeta. A full ruche en
the same frllli ? finishes the neck , and a of
black satin bow with ends fastens the front. ar
Among the more serviceable gowns of cloth
and silk of recent design a touch of red is
very ! noticeable , and much whlto la In evi
dence , as It has 'been ' all winter. A very llt ho
red of the right shade In the right place
a very effective contrast , but wo may bo do >
very ! generous In the use of white silk , satin tic
and lace. ari
The rumor comes from Paris that tbo llt tin
shoulder capes , which have been a fa
vorite so l&ng Is really "doomed , " and the foi
only ! sort of cape which Is fashionable there a i
a sort of compromise between a coat and pu
cape. i It has wing slcovo and a close-fit
ting bodice , somewhat on the bolero form , B
only ! longer. ou
Great favor Is shown the double-warp ]
cashmeres that so closely resemble drap
d'ute , In colored goods tbo broken checks ZOI
tnl
Th
dre
the
as
tcrl
frll
rev
par
parT
and
tint
and
dec
or
Is a
feet
will
Jusl
woa
If J
in
T
to
thn
thnM
by
a bo
bee
beeN
sba
tloi
a Ji
JiM
rcai
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abh
abhR
R !
to
Cltti
the
YorM
J3LIN D0 SOIB OVER DHONZB RED in
SILK. Hire
her
herTl
th several dyea liandsomelv ) blended seem Tl
predominate , and these prove more ser- of li
eablo than plain colors for general wear denl
any fabric but serge , which has proved tend
* elf to 'he ' the peer of any utility material for
own. forA
Vs there 10 to bo a great demand for the
vn , batiste , India muslin , and organdie Adli
lets next season , tbo dressmakers ore at t
eady piled wltU questions concerning iron >
itty effective materials for clips and lln- AuaTl
s for thcso goods that will take the place Tl
one Is having several dresses of thla aort Ing
de of taffeta silk which costs much moro Krfi
in the dreui material lUelf. will
iomo of the most attractive toilets of berg
werod nil ! ; grenadine. French organdie , undi
Ha muslin , etc. , are made with an elabor- bo B
ly trimmed round waist and a gored BM
rt , flnlt-hed with a very deep Spanish acasi
jnce much wider on tbo oldes than in has
nt or at the back. The top of the flounce an
finished < wtth a tluy Btandlbg ( rill p re It U
The Boston Store DEPARTMENT. "
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Mine. Ynlc'n "Almond UloHROm Complexion Cream" Keeps the Complexion Per
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Mine. Ynle'H "UxcelNlor Ilitlr Tonic , " a scientific rncdlclno for restoring the hair to
perfect health and Its natural color. Stops hair falling- , cures dandruH and all known
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covered for curing the complaints peculiar to the sex. 75c.
Mine. Ynle'H "lllooil Toiile , " n Great lllpod 1'urlflcr and General Tonic for building up
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and Purity to all the Vital Organs of either sex children or ndult. 750.
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Mine. Yule'M "Specliil Lotlon"a positive Cure for Blackheads , Pimples and all manner
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Kyo Drows and Irishes. Truly Wonderful. 75c.
Mine. Ynle'H Knee I'owdor 3 shades , Flesh , White , Cream. 800.
Mine. Yiilc'H Complexion Sonp. 17c.
Mine. Ynle'H "Jnelc Hone &OIIVCB , " a Jloso Plnlt Tint for the Checks perfect Imitation
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Mine. Ynle'H "HodCllinlH" Lip Salve. 75o. |
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OMAHA ,
i6th and Douglas !
Streets.
need by the shirring. The bottom of tbo
aunce Is either laid in small tucks or Is
nlshed with a very deep hein.
Toques are made ot tucked chiffon , and
ansparcnt canvas In various colors la made
> Into sailor shaped bats and trimmed with
ilffon , wings , and flowers. Colored fcath-
s are to be very much used , and all sorto
Jeweled effects In dressy bonnets. There
o wings of gold gauze edged around with
irrow whlto lace , spangled over with col-
ed Jewels , and the loveliest silk crepe
jpplos In cream whtto and yellow , dotted
jro and theio with tiny rhlnstones.
The diplomatic sleeve Is gradually getting
wn to tho. promised sheath-like propor-
ona , and In muslin gowns we flnd It tucked
ound and shirred upj and down ; but It ( Its
10 arm clcscly all the way to the shoulder ,
hero the extenuating llttlo frills console us
r the loss of the balloon wo gloried In such
short time ago. Other sleeves have a little
iff at the top with a frill falling over It.
ut it Is only putting off the evil day when
will have to appear In the real thing with-
it any delusive rufllcs.
Uclts , girdles , very wide celntures , empire
shes , chatelaines and every sort of eton ,
uavc , bolero , and flgaro Jackets will main-
In their vogue during the summer season ,
icro ! Is no diminution whatever In these
easy Items of the fashionable gown , and
ey are as varied In their smart little guises
the tops of dress sleovta with thalr but-
rfly draperies , rows of accordcon-plaltcd
Ilia , points , puffs , slashed effects , epaulets ,
very , and Innumerable other means of 1m-
rting moderate width to the shoulders.
The fancy waists In nil sorts of materials ,
d especially chiffon , still promise a con-
med popularity. Any color may bo chcsen ,
lace and spangled effects are the usual
coratlon , with llttlo epaulet frllla of lace
chiffon i over the shoulder. This epaulet
almost a necessity If you would have portion
tion of stylo. A black chiffon bodice ,
th a touch of red , is the correct thing
at the moment , and the proper skirt to
iar with any of thcso dainty confectlona ,
you would bo quite up to the litest Part-
fashion , Is plain black satin ,
Feminine N'oen ,
The princess of 'Wales prefers the tricycle
the blcyclo , and fashionable women
roughout England are following suit.
Mrs. Annlo S. Peck , who became famous
ascending the JIattorhorn , 14,705 foot
eve sea level , In the summer of 1690 , has
en lecturing in Philadelphia.
Mrs. Ilalph Vivian , formerly Mrs. Mar-
all O , Roberts , Is getting up a suhscrlp-
: among the Americans In London to glvo
jublleo to tbo cjuoen.
Mrs. John Sherman la exceedingly well
and deeply interested In current cvcntu.
xt year she and Secretary Shonnun will bola
to colt-brato their golden wedding.
Mrs. Kcllicr Herrmann bag given $10,000
bo Invested for maintaining educational
isses for young mon , under tbo auspices of
Young Man's Hebrew absoclatlon of Now
irk City.
Miss Clara "Barton Is rapidly completing
oparatlons to go to the relief of sufferers
Cuba. ( Her bomo on F and Seventeenth
recta , Washington , contains many relics of
labor in foreign lairJa.
Tbo young czarina has Just granted a sum
100,000 rubles toward the erection of real-
ntlal quarters for the female students at-
nillng the St. Petersburg Medical Institute
Women. ' j
French woman who may be heard on
other aide of the waters Is Mine. Ada
ling. She made hen debut some time ago
the Opera do Paris , and lias juit returned
a tmcccesful tour of Germany , Itussla ,
istrla and Iloumanla.
rho Cmprcss Frederick la rapidly complet-
ber plans for making the o < 4 Schloag at
enters an historical museum which sbo
present no a gift to the town of Kron-
. It Is being restored at great oxponto
der ber eupervlaloa , aud art treasures will
added.
Mre. William McKlnley Is the proud POD ,
isor ot an exquisite miniature brooch which
been eant to tier by Miss Hello Smith ,
Oho ( artist who U studying In Paris.
an excellent llkeneis of the president
painted on Ivory and handsomely mounted la
silver and penrla. i
Mrs. Kansen , sr. , mother of the well known
explorer , Dr. Nansen , Is accredited with hav
ing inaugurated the healthful pastime for
women of tobogganing and gliding on pnow-
sliocs. She was the first woman of Norway
to become an enthusiast along this line ,
which has slnco uecome EO popular in that
country.
Ono of the daughtera of the late General
Logan , Mrs. Mary Logan Tucker , Is soon to
como Into a snug fortune. She and her son ,
Gcorgo Lemon Tucker , inherit two-fifths of
the estate of the late George 13. Lemon , but
Instead of a fortune of $1,000,000 , which It
was supposed bo had left , it actually
amounts to over $3,000,000.
Mrs. Amelia R. Darr , whose summer homo
is at Cornell on the Hudson , Is spending th
winter at the Fifth Avenue hotel , with her
daughter , In Now York City. She devotes
ono afternoon a week to her friends , whom
falju receives and entertain ! ) with the help of
her daughter. Her last book , "Tho King ol
tbo Nets , " was her twenty-eighth novel.
Miss Dcsslo Potter of Chicago , who sailed
a fo v days ago to oxcculo several ordeni
across the pond , has maidenly attained fame
In the art world through the great success
of her portrait statuettes. Thesa are almost
as fashionable as another famous woman's
miniatures. The statuettes are faithful
reproductions of each person represented and
noted for brcaiHh of treatment and the Intense -
tense personality , in many Instances the
graceful draperies suggesting unlimited
space. A largo degree of Mlts Potter's suc
cess is due to the fact that many of her
subjects have been very linndsomo women
dressed In the latest Paris gowns. The mod
ern American girl has become very popular
In the statuettes. The added touch of color
after the whole is complete and dry has
boon very fetching. The roses , the folda of
an evening frock , or the draperies , arc bright ,
ened In this way , The color schema was In
troduced by accident , by wiping seine brushes
ono day upon a broken statuette. The effect
was admired and now they are praised a
very original work.
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I
