TUB OMAHA DAILY UElS1 SUNDAY , FTSimUAltY 21 , 1807.
. ,
10 JL. Ju * ,1 4 V JTA-j : fc. J A.- &
W
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. l
* X1V * V w v v " * -
Vl\J WiV |
I I'AHIS FASHIONS.
jirln < r InflurnccH ArUvcly nt WorU
Anionir ilit" MoilMlen.
PAIIIS , Jan. 81 , 1S97. A fashionable Ta
rlatan's winter Is divided Into two parts.
During the first half she Is preparing for
that which Is to follow. Her time Is spent
In the delightful business of shopping. In
visiting beating up tlio frlonds scattered
in the course ot the summer , and cement
ing now acquaintances made at the sea
side or In the course of travel and In the
pursuit of such outdoor amusements as maybe
bo enjoyed.
The yearning toward a spring-like toilet
In midwinter never provallod to such nn
extent ns It docs this year , 'nor has milli
nery over cast away Its somber features at
on earlier date.
For smart costumes thcro la no material
more In vogue than cloth , and the favorite
colors nro light drabs , fawns nnd grays.
By the way , a suggestion It Is best to cut
closo-flttlng cloth bodices on the cross , and
so avoid back seams or darts. The blouses
nro fit to the figure and set
smoothly over the shoulders. Some of the
boleros nro extremely short , cut In half-
moon curves from the neck to the arm-
PALH FAUN CLOTH.
pits , others just Inclose the bust or come
nearly down to the waist.
SPUING MODELS.
Hero are some combinations selected from
among Doucet's latest : Polo brown cloth
skirt 'an'jl bolero ornamented with chenille
trimming , white ohlffon chemisette , white
Japanese silk draped belt , lace cravat and
rulllca , cloth skirt and blouse of a lighter
elmilu of fawn , bouffant of white clilffon ,
Jaunty almond-green velvet collar covering
the shoulders , black satin necklet and saoh ,
skirt nnd light bodice of lavender gray cloth ,
the latter faced with ccrlsoclvct , white
Hsso front. White cloth skirt and bodice
with application ot guipure , lace epaulets
frilled with chiffon , bouffant of the same ,
nuil/c uatln necklet and waistband. Thin
chemisettes are also extended to costumes ot
homely cheviots and serges , to which they
afford a somewhat striking contrast. A
pretty ccstume another of Doucet's consists
ot a skirt nnd blouse bodice of navy blue
woolen ; the skirt is edged with a band of
sable and the bodice , cut half-high , has a
plaited red velvet bertha. A chemisette of
cream lace opens above the bertha and be
tween the open-front of the blouse it Is gath
ered Into a red velvet necklet and a belt of
the same confines the blouse to the waist.
Out of doors , of course , the vagaries of
the bodice are still concealed beneath a
light-weight coat or cape. To render capes
a more euro protection they are often made
BO as to cross over the bust , little pockets
NAiVV HLUH WOOL.
balilg added Into which the fingers arc bllppc
Hut on filtering a room the capo Is throv
back or the coat unbuttoned so us to expo
to view the delicate' flnery beneath ,
13 > on wruid nre not exempt from the pr
vailing tendci.cy. Killltngs of mellow lai
are sown luildo , and large * bows of brig
satin ilbbon oiiUlile the collars of nil tl
nqy capca , cunning devices of lace are d
vifKl which combine winter warmth with
bprlnsllko frcahne-su of hue ,
MILLINIIVY TUNDENCIRS.
Hut It Is the millinery that beats the rei
ord , Spring end summer blcesoms are m
only lavished on felt hats and velvet toque
thrusting plumage Into the backgiound ; mai :
tire inado entirely of ( lowers. The pain :
violets and the purple hyacinth toque
tilmmihl \ > lth bunches or sprats of the eun
lioni-rs , have met with Immense sueces
Other toiues ari > funnel of light pufllm
of tulle , In which chaplels of rents neatl
Jlorcovur , the fashion ot wearing the hat t
toque tilled forward or the eyes -U Hit !
In keeping with a time of > ear uhen tt
son Is thai latt thing to bo feared.
.Any ono Ignorant of the French cllmal
lately embarked In the good city of Par !
lulght well be forgiven for supposing th :
frost and snow are. unusual visitors , to Judfi
from the aspect ot the bhop windows , whet
articles in gauze uud lace , delicate line
tuffs , bright ribbons and Uowen make s
bravo a show. And If the mewcomer
the entry to some Parisian drawing re
she will meet women who look rather t
garbed for a garden party than for the
cusslon ot a cozy cup ot tea on a Fcbri
afternoon.
Entertainments at this season gcncr
take the form of dlnno > - parlies , for wl
dcml toilet Li required. Satin or vc
skirts , with high "bodices " , In moussollm
sole , ls a favorite combination , Somctlm
tiny bolero Is added , and almost Invarli
a shaped belt or corselet. Married woi
are beginning to patronlzo trains again ,
girls hero do not go In for the matronly
pondage. Flowered silks on whlto groin
with narrow satin stripes , "liberty" R.I
and taffetas make up some ot the most cha
Ing ovonlng dresses designed this season
our girls. A skirt of one of these fab
will do duty for a dinner or a ball If m
with a high and n low bodice. The la
are generally fashioned so as to coma i
on the shoulders'cither cut down In a cu
back and front or square. Short sleeves
made rather full and still deserve the in
ot balloons , but the material used Is mo
something transparent.
Industrious women who make their <
dresses will find the shaped belt a n
convenient article ot apparel. It Is by
moans too difficult to make and nothing gl
a more stylish appearance to a tel
Flounces provide an easy method of rcnoi
Ing a dress that" has soon service. W
llounccs reaching to the knees In any t
ot gossamer or lace are put onlth v
little fullness. Narrow Holiness are E
orally plaited ; a group1 ot three on the c
ot the skirt and three more halt a y
higher up Is a favorlto stylo. Light sleek
look charming trimmed tn this way , w
fallings of plain taffetas chosen to ma
mo of the colors In the [ v.iUern. The arl
renovation Is ono by no means to bo i
dalncd. In some respects the fashions
the day deserve the epithet of cxtravagn
nevertheless they admit of vaiious 11
artifices , and the changes that have b
wrought within the lost few months
not of a kind to render transformations
possible. These who have to cut their c
according to their cloth need not fare
badly. The suppression of a breadth ,
paring down of sleeves to present prof
tlons works wonders , whlto the addition
i few yards of frilling , some dainty bits
lace , a bunch of flow era or a bow of brl ,
Ibbon provides the requisite touch of sprl
Ike freshness prematurely demanded
rashion. KATK V. YAP !
" \VIIOI.I2S.YI.K
llovr Unruly lloyn Are llrMi-aln
Durlni ; n ItvllKtoiis Ceremony.
An extraordinary ceremony Is the c
Irniatlon by wholesale of the small boys
ho famous Juvenile asylum of the Pet
loquetto at Paris. There are several hi
.rods of boys In the asylum ; and as some
hem have been wild and wayward before
ng sent to the Petlto Roquette , a consld
bio amount of restraint is maintained o
horn. For Instance , at the sacred ce
nony of confirmation they are not allov
D sit together In open chinch , lest porhi
heir mischievous tendencies , acting In co
non , might- disturb the gravity of the oc
Ion. In order to duly separate the urclil
ml at the same time to arrange matters
hat each boy comes before the confirm !
irolato In regular order , an Ingenious ct
rlvance has been Invented. At onn end
ho chapel of the Petlto Iloquette there
n Immense wheel , reaching from floor
elllng. The face of thlb wheel Is dlvlt
11 to little cubicles , like large cells In a hoiii
omb. Into cadi of these cells Is introdui
, boy. The front partition of the cell con
p to his chin , leaving nothing exposed I
head and face. At the top of the wh
Is a gallery , guarded by wardens , fr
the boys are 'led ' to tholr cubicles
he- hugo wheel. Ilelow , under the floor
ho chapel Is another gallery , slmlla
nardcd. Into which the newly conflrn
Ihrlstlans nre conducted.
In the chapel stands the archbishop
'arls ' with his attendant priests , holding I
hrlsm , or oil of anointment. Before hi
ler above tier , In the great honeycoml
heel , Is the cruw-d of bojlsh faces neivo
ager or filghtenod , according to tho1 nati
f their owners.
At a given signal the archbishop steps ft
ard , and , passing quickly along the II
f cells , level with the lloor , anoints and c <
rms each boy In turn. Another signal a
: ie big wtyeel begins to revolve upon Its ax
lowly the faces of the confirmed boys d
; > pear beneath the chapel flooring , and slov
nothcr tier ot faces takes the place occup !
y them , within reach of the archblslio ;
onfirmlng hand. Again these boys j
lade "strong and perfect Christians , " as t
itual expressed U , and once again the win
arns until a third line of cells , filled w !
oys , Is brought level with the chapel. Th
IB odd ceremony Is continued until eve
oy on every tlei < of the wheel has rocelv
Jnflrmatlon. A whole holiday Is granted
10 llttlo occupants of the revolving who
ho. when released , from their cell nndi
eath the chapel , are conducted to a hear
ojeuner and. thence to the playground. T
rcat wheel Idea may bo satisfactory enou
i French orphan asylums , but It Is to
'ared ' that the Innate sense of the rldlculoi
) stiong In American boyg , would scarce
3 proof before the Introduction of a slmll
mtrivancu here.
XK\V UOIJ.-I.-UUKS.
< -nUu > rx a nil Sutlii Coiiilm mill Xov
In Paris recently the art of head dressli
is been brought to such a point of It
irtant perfection that rich women a
Ivlng what they call diners do tetes. The
a elaborate dlnlngs , to which the fomlnli
Jests como with tholr heads dressed
storlcal fashion. From the time of Ml
m , the prophetess , to Mine. Ilecamlcr. .
m monstrous bandeaux of the Kmpre
ugenle , wigs , powder , plumes , jewel
arfs , gold dust , and what not , are all calli
the aid of the coiffeur's ' art , In bulldli
ieso beautiful and becoming chignons nr
10 diners do tctcs liavo become ns populi
nrlslan functions as our book or post
irtles. Fancy halrdresslng has not , hoer \
or , destroyed the French woman's clevc
! ss nt combing her locks In novel ni
autlful coiffures for ordinary occasloi
ill lately wo have over from Paris tl
angemcnts of hair destined to bo fashloi
> lo through the coming spring and sun
or. The distinguished troll of nil thoi
odes appropriate with evening gowns ,
l ubscnco of the very tall feathers. Th
is been cropped off In favor of new shapi
satin bows , that In halidressers parlam
D called satin combs. Ono of these
variably placed at the back or front i
cry pllo of hair , after nightfall and tl
mb Is Invariably glorified by a Jew
icoratlon of toinu sort. Lcutherlc , wl
dds among head dressers the proud pas
in Worth commands among dressmaker
ithers tbo locks up exactly to the crow.
ere ho twists them softly and makes
inple slip not , which leaves an upstandir
iff. Ilelow the remainder of the cell
rncd Into a email llguro night , and the
i this ho fastens a six-looped satin hoi
3 heart made of a large colored fab
wel ,
Ilelow the cronn the hair U allowed
oop In a soft , bagllke effect and an abui
nco of curly bangs about , but not actuall
i , the forehead. This U the coiffure Lei
eric , in preparation for which the ha
over so slightly onduled and small ligl
rla coaxed to frill out behind the cars ,
The next most successful chignon th :
T modish women hive copied from the
encli sisters Is the coiffure Homanof
lilt with the hair drawn high , a wldi
ingod satin how set across the base <
e loops in front and a hinged Jouele
mb thrust In to cover the center of Hi
iv Now , If a dark-haired woumn weai
U , her ornament usually made of vlvl
K jellow or flaming red nalln , and th
ibulun comb U just as often gorgeous wit
iimelllng In many colors as with jewels.
A. great many women who boast of po :
sslng the true , old Russian or Qree
nibs , khow them in silver really marvel
sly inlaid ; the upper part U al\\ay
uged ou to the teeth and they are it
variably meant to bo worn in the front ,
not the back ot the hair. Ot rourso , If you
liavo not a Russian comb , the next best
thing Is a bow with a jewel In U , and this
Jewel may bo ono of the finest South Afri
can diamonds , or a big ruby , topaz , or
amethyst , palpably manufactured In Parts.
Illonde-hpadcd women wear big bows of
turquolso blue satin , set with n great emer
ald In the center , and not a single smartly
dressed woman uses on osprcy of any length
or color.
Just now , In place of a tiara , those who
can afford them wear tiny royal crowns ,
These ore modeled on the shape of the great
coronation headpiece in the tower of London ,
with the exception that for our American
women the sovereign crown Is not larger
than a turkey's egg. This , adjusted with
hairpins , exactly on the top of the head ;
behind It the hair is twisted Intd a tall figure
\ - \-i \ ' \vt \
PARISIAN' HAin DRESSING.
eight , and then a big satin bow fastened on
behind.
Equally coquettish above a pretty face Is
the now Mary Stuart chignon , for which
the hair Is softly waved , parted , drawn
back and twisted Into a soft , loose cushion
at the rear. Then , of black velvet and whlto
tulle , or velvet and diamonds , a skeleton
outline of a Mary Stuart cap is fixed on a
wlro frame , and this fastened on the top of
the head. Women there are who use but a
pointed wreath of diamonds , not even on
a foundation of black velvet , or , for the even
ing , straighten out their Jeweled bands ,
to wreath In the new chignon auteune. For
this a rope of hair is twisted , from crown
to toque , In an eight of four or five turns ,
beginning with a loop at the top. Over
every turn , back and forth , the line of
bright amber beads , or diamonds , or pearls ,
Is pinned , to get an effect that is novel as It
Is Invariably becoming. *
Meanwhile , for daylight toilets women al
low their locks moie and more to ham : In
a soft curtain behind , setting in , back of
the cars , blonde shell combs that describe
an absolute halt circle. Inside the cres
cent thus formed the knot of hair Is made
by first braiding the length , then pulling
out each loop In the braid and fastening
It down with blonde shell pins. Exceed
ingly fashionable- young ladles use hairpins
of conventional shape , having the prongs of
shell , but the tops of gold wire. The wire
tops are then twisted to form a letter , and ,
sitting 'n the theater , at a matinee , it Is
not sometimes difficult to observe that the
hatlcss girl In front of you bears the pretty
\VIIITn CLOTH.
name of Alice , or Enid , or Rlsa , so plainly
do her hairpins spell the word. Smait ma.-
Irons , who have decided at length that I
U modish to show many gray hairs , arc
using silver hairpins , In plare of black wire
or shell ones , to bo In harmony with theli
fading locks. They are about us long urn !
heavy as the black wlro ones , but are , b )
a carefully colffed woman , polished over )
morning with a chamois skin.
niiihSM.\iuMJ i.V aii.MATimi : .
A Woumn AVlm I.iiriix u fJoiiil liu'omt
MM II Uoll'N COMtllllllT.
A work ct women which has rapidly in
creased In New York during the last tw <
years Is the making and designing of < lol
clothe * . Not because dolls are new , foi
co old arc they that no ono seems ever tc
liavo heard or road of the making of the
flrct doll baby , but because beforu that tlm (
all doll clothes told In the stores were Im
ported. A young woman looking around fci
borne way whereby she might earn a living ,
was Impressed with the oxpcnslvencus of doll
clothes as sold In the stores. She made sev
eral complete outfits , took them to one ol
the leading toy merchants find asked foi
orderu. That waa her beginning juut a llt
tlo more than two years ago. Today slit
employs regularly two assistants and In the
fa. , before the holiday season she lias been
forced to cmpTo 'for several weeks ns many
as twelve. " > r s
When Ylstte.\"tft her homo on East Ninth
street , the otliW-May , this young woman , In
Gpcaklng of hb/"work , raid : "Ot course * 1
om not the flm'pcrson who ever made- doll
clothes for RiAfo * , but 1 bellevo I am the
first person M Nfew York to make It ft pro
fusion and deVolb my whole tlmo to It. I
began just as you have been told , by making
a tew gowns fcH-fllchildrcu dolls , " that Is dolls
which nro dre'sstM Ilko little girls 8 or 10
years old. 'Nov we make them for all
ages , though T still prefer to make for dollo
of that ago.- " ' ' *
The gowns'rirti ' prettier and wo make moro
on them. Theli , too , they require IMS
handwork thrift tfio clothM to be worn by a
"baby doll , " Uf a "boy doll. " The clothing
for these last named require % cry careful
work , both machine nnd hand , liava to be
carefully pressed as for genuine children , nnd
wo are paid lew tor making them than for
any others. That Is the reason I never
care to receive orders for boys' clothes. Yea ,
the pay Is fairly good. For a dress like
this one of taffeta silk and lace , with the two
undergarments , petticoat and drawers ot lawn
nnd lace trimmed , I receive $4 , the materials
amounting to about one-third of that amount ,
b&cause , you see , I have such largo orders
that I can afford to buy my goods at whole
sale. I have understood that the pay for
making clothes for the cheaper grades of
dolls was \cry poor and that ninny ot the
smaller garments wcro inado at the rate ot
three or four for a penny. "
Doll hats arif 'all 'Imported from France <
Germany , whe'rfe there are regular factorli
for their making They are In the latci
stylco and shapes , though , as a rule , tew ai
brought over trimmed , the trimming of hai
for several of the larger toy stores beir
done by trained milliners who devote the
their tlmo to It and duplicate any Importe
style ordered. The rubber capes and niackit
toshes for dolls eold In New York nre mostl
made by a well-known rubber company , an
are as up-to date In cut and finish as the ;
made for the ordinary human being. Thei
Is no factory for dolls' shoes and gloves I
America , so all of these articles are Importe
They range In price from something over 5
to a few cents , and are numbered and le
tercd just as those for children. Doll toj
and Jewelry are also Imported from tl ;
factories ot Germany , Franco and Knglani
But their furniture , dishes nnd stoves , wit
cooking ntensllii , nre made by factories I
the United States , and nre much bettt
finished than those formerly Imported.
WOMH.Y OF TIII3 MIDDM2 AVESl
Their Inherited Hurt-fir il llusliicn
Ability.
The woman ot the west Is the splrltc _
energy , says Harper's Bazar. It Is an InherItance
Itanco from her Immediate ancestors , wh
worked unceasingly as founders of states
She has not yet been seized with the wear ;
satiety of ovor-clvllbatlon , and feels a Jo ,
In labor and Its fruits. She prefers activit ;
and If life offers her leisure Bho adopts ,
child or a career and works for her sell
sought object.
The double task of making a homo am
developing the country has been throug'
her so thoroughly accomplished that , wltl
all our vast territory , wo have scarcely i
district that might be truly spoken of a
the frontier. This achievement liberates to
other Uhes the energy of woman , and , tru
to the spirit of the times , she casta abou
her for a career other than a domestic one
nven In the small towns of newly settlci
districts the daughters of the family do no
ncttln down to an Interminable round o
spiritless housework , but Instead start ou
with tholr brothers to their day's work ai
stenographer , typesetter , clerk or teacher
None are tdlo or fill the position of lady a
leisure , for such would bo companlonless.
The women with genuine business ability
test It In a llttlo boat near shore , and , meol
Ing success , go further to venture more. Tin
woman with a talent , or a volco migrates tc
a city favorable for Its cultivation , and tin
old profession of teaching has Its counties :
isplrnnts , all eager to lonrn now methods.
licsldes all these are the young womer
\\lio could lead a llfn of uneventful comforl
at homo In larger places , but who prefer th (
hazards of self-support In the world to mo
notony 'In a smaller sphere ; t > o ( hero comes
a day when these , too , Join the army throngIng -
Ing to the largo cities.
The education of ) boolt ? and colleges Is ol
primary Importance , ln their mind just now ,
: jtit by and by Jbey will realize that the
world bestows pioraof | Its wealth ( and thai
moans power ) or\ , those who possess knowl-
sdgo of men niiil an , ability to recognize op.
and to sc-lzo it be-
! > ortunlty when U Is met -
' 010 it has fled. , ,
Another lesson tho- girl ot the plains imisl
'earn ' Is that ms.nnpr . and address enhance
, vh.it other claims to success eho may pos
sess , and are nqttolio despised as evidence
if decadence oncffetcness. All honesty Islet
lot rude and a , polfjhed ) manner enables one
o meet any maj ) 911 advantageous ground ,
, vllo ] | a faulty manner Is acceptable only ta
hose whoso \\njs are equally defective.
The effect of r uojnent and civilization by
naltlng all confirm to * lvcn standards is
o reduce all to tb.o same mould. The woman
) f the west need not fear that her rugged In-
llvlduallty will be thus obliterated , for she
Ives too near to nature's heart. The free-
lorn of the plains , the largo liberty of her
latlvo land , have been Infused into her
ilood , and the will remain as she Is a
ivoinan whoso labor la the result ot thought.
vhctiB opinions are tbo result of honest con-
, -lctlon and whoso love of self is lost In
eve of mankind and of country.
A MUYH'AN IIKI.I.n.
Vn Uiiiiiiitphoil llc'iiut ) , mill lUli'fhM of
tin * . Art uf Cnptlt iitliin ,
"Tho Mexican bclleia Is a born coquette ,
, nd mlatrejs of the art of captlvailon. " says
Mward Page Gaoton , writing of "A Pair of
.overs In Mexico" In the February LadUa'
{ OHIO Journal , "Her eyes of limpid night
re demurely pensive , almost to sudncaa , and
he long lauhca which partially curtain them
roop languidly and apparently without , pur-
> cse ; but all this U only to veil the My
lances constantly sweeping bore and there
for fresh conquests. The eyes of a ball
beauty are nlmply magnificent In tholr chang
Ing expressions ; they perfectly mirror over
shade of pantlment In the southern roll. Th
face , too , dangerously demure , unlcm llghtci
up by a radiantly captivating smile , cai
harJly bo matched for beauty the wide worl
around , when regarded in all Its harmon
of gleaming teeth , countenance dellcatcl
tinted and dimpled , raven hair falling I
waves upon the marge of the high , whit
forehead , and the film ot the lnce-wrough
3 vlllana , carelessly tossed with true Caa
tlltan grAcc upon the head , A corner ot tin
lace head-wrap lightly klssco forehead ntu
cheek , nnd makes a fit crowning to the grace
fully lined form , shawled In the silken fold
and sweeping fringe of the costly tapalo
brought over from Spain as a family heir
loom many years ago , Thcro la no costum
moro befitting the occasion than these An
daluslan shawls and laca hcadidraperlrs , re
enforced by the Spanish tan , Innocent In It
self , but a whole battery ot expro.'islvoiics
when commanded by the taper lingers ot
southern beauty abroad for conquest. "
A WOMAN UOVTAIIIj12.
She Horn tier "Work nn n Mnu Dncn
The 1'ft of the Force.
The new woman hao broken out In a new
spot. This tlmo It Is the constabulary of th
city of Allegheny , Pa. , which she has In
vaded. Miss Florence Klotz can scarcely b
called oven a woman constable , though , fo
she Is only 18 years old. But she's a con
stable all right. She serves warrants , suru-
monsea and subpoenas with all the author
ity and determination of a mala minion of
the law. Miss Kiotz's father Is an alderman ,
whose regular constable was an old man
who had an Inconvenient way of being sicker
or Invisible -when ho was wanted for duty.
On one of these occasions , about 'two months
ago , the despairing alderman pressed his
daughter Into bervlce. That settled the mat
ter. The girl constable proved to bo the
pluckiest , quickest , most reliable ono In
town. Her very first mission was to serve
a subpoena ou . farmer living four miles
out of town. Miss Florence put on her
bloomers , mounted her wheel , and went after
her man. When she came back , tired ,
muddy , but triumphant , she found a crowd
In front of her father's office to welcome
her.
her."I bervod them , papa , " she exclaimed and
then , womanlike , she cried , even though shu
was a constable.
She saya she would rather deal with 100
men than with ten women. The women
think It Is a joke , but the men think that
the law must bo obeyed even It It Is em
bodied In an 18-year-old girl. Before , she
wont Into the constabulary she -wheeled
through Allegheny county , getting trade for
her father's candy factory. Next summer
she and her sister will ride a tandem-
geared to clxty-elght ou the same errand
She'lB described by the St. I ouls Globe-Demo
crat as slight and handsome , with raven
black hair and snapping black eyes.
In ono case Miss Klotz acted as counsellor
as well ax constable. A butcher had kicked
In the door -when ho found his hallway
locked up by the baker , who with his family
occupied the rest of the nouso. The locking
was by order of the landlord , who demanded
that It bo done at 10 p. m. Tint buichc-r
was sued for malicious mischief. Ml s Klotz
brought her man to court , also served a
score of subpoenas for witnesses , arranged
the deta'ls of he hear ng , crosi-oxamlned the
witnessed , and finally ha.l tbo case dUmlssod
on her recommendation that each of the par-
tie * bo furnished svltli keys. The coats wcro
divided and the young lawyer-constable
Binllcil with delight as she counted over her
share.
Thu only unruly case she lias run across
was a jouugstcr of U , who refused to go
with her. She took the dilemma by tl
horns nnd the boy "by the collar , trlppevl hi
up and , with a handy copy of "Pilgrim
Progress , " administered a series of bnslnei
like blows where they would do the mo
good and led him weeping Into court. A 11
tlo Jeweled revolver Is her only weapon ,
was presented to her by a big constable wl
was filled with admiration ot her pluck. SI
says that she doesn't know what she wou
do If she ran against an ugly customer , bi
she declares , with a snap ot her bine
eyes , that she would get him. She Is the p
of the municipal force , ml If she ever sci
word for help the entire rctlnuo of clerk
heads ot departments and underlings wou !
turn out to the rtaeuo of Constable Flo
enco.
Talc silver-gray moire lii very fashlonabl
used for elegant Lenten costumes.
The princess drcrs Is vrry popular 1
Paris , and many handsome gowns ofe1vc
and silk for weddings and other drossy oc
caslons are cut In this stylo.
The sleeve ot the moment certainly ha
length to recommend It almost In propoi
lion to the size U has latt , ami the prctt
fall of lace nt the wrist Is very bocomln
to any but the short , stout arm.
Any number of new black nets are brough
out nnd will bo used as transparencies ovc
cerlso , mauve , Spanish yellow , pink , ol
rose , etc. , as well as over black or whit
moire satin or taffeta.
Shepherd checks In pretty , soft colors nn
a lightweight 'wool material nro to bo ver ;
much worn for traveling dresses this season
and will bo made up with ai bolero of plait
cloth braided in some contrasting color.
The latest fancy for trimming silk petti
coats 1s two or three accordlon-pleatet
ruHles fully a quarter of a yard wide. Thest
are pinked on the edgea nnd sometime )
caught up In festoons fastened by bows o :
ribbon.
Narrow quillings of chiffon nro a feature
jf dress this reason , filling n. large space In
the shops , and are employed In a hundred
llfteront ways , ono ofwhich Is ns a bor-
lor for sashes of velvet or silk , worn with
3venlng dress.
The autograph tea cloth Is ono of the fnda
imong English women. U In ot plain white
Inen with broad hemstitched hem. Nutncr-
> ua friends wrlto their names diagonally
ibovo the hem , and each ono Is embrold-
; rcd In whlto or colored cotton.
Trimmed skirts will be very much In cvl-
Icnco among forthcoming gowns both for
lay and evening wear , but not to the exclu-
ilon of the pleln , elegant , undecori-.ted , mod-
ila eo long favored and still preferred by
unny of fashion's leaders.
Quaint llttlo Normandy bonnets with
icakcd crowns , and shlricd brims accompany
nany of the costly Lenten gowns. The ma-
orlty ot them are made of fabrics match-
tig the costume , and very often a tiny
noucliolr mult Is added that Is suspended
rom the neck by a narrow ribbon or a tiny
ord of finest gold.
Many of the warp-printed summer fabrics
Iready displayed are far prettier and more
ellcato In effect than the deeply woven pat-
cms. This process appears as well on
textiles nnd
diaphanous ,
cavy as on very
ho vague shadowy designs are particularly
rautlful on French organdies , batistes and
unit-transparent silks.
The new skirts are gauged , corded , tucked ,
nlfe-pleatod , or laid In finer accordion pleats ,
'hoy ara considerably less flaring without
their attractive cachet ,
> j > lng anything of
nd ore much ICES cumbersome than the
klrts of past seasons. Some of the now
klrts are shirred on the hips alone , the back
lain and full , the front forming oa apron
hat Is trimmed down each side.
Parasols are out In full bloom In the shops ,
ut the moat elaborate productions look sus-
Iclously like those of last season. There are
ho same guazy vanities , all ruffled and
lalted and edged with lace ofl branded -with
Ibbon , and everything In the way of a fancy
Ilk parasol. Plain molro lined with a con-
rastlng color makes a pretty combination ,
'lilch Is likely to bo popular.
Ulack gowns gain In favor for evening
lavish too much
ear , and ono can hardly
: t garniture upon them , especially on the
odlco and sleeves. Accordion-pleated
lack moussclalno < lo sole , silk ctamluo , not ,
illc , and other diaphanous textiles are
Ighly popular , made up over watered silk
nd black crepe do Chine , black ; taffeta silk
Immod with rows of velvet or jet a very
Id style revived are all noted among the
owest evening toilets worn ,
Cordlugs rival tucks In favor , nnd these
re exceedingly popular with modistes just
ow , Cordlngs near the waist are convenient
> r regulating the fullness of the skill at thla
artlon of It. Say there are three or four
jrdlngs about two Inches apart Immediately
slow the wolst ; this Insures plainness about
CLOTH STREET GOWNS.
the hips , the bklrt expanding in urabrelli
ahapo below the cordlnga. The cord mus
bo fairly thick tn Insure- the desired effect
and many modistes use tbo circular mode
In making a corded ullk.
Tucks have long been considered a slmpl
trimming for childish gowns , but fashion 1
Imperial Hair Regenerate !
will make the linlr beaut I
fill , Rlomtx and natural , n <
inuttir how streaky
ULIACKU or UHAY i
limy be ,
U la clean , oJorleas , last
In ? , It docs not rontalr
un atom uf pgUunoim mat
UT llatlii ilo not effect it ,
neither Uois curling 01
crlmpliiKIru'cmjiarnLU
for ( ho IinAHU on account
of U durability unj clean-
llnem.
No. 1. llloclc.
Nu , t Dark
Jlrovui.
No 3 Medium
Hi own
No 4 Cheitnut
No. 6 l.lnlit
Cliolnut ,
No , C OolJ
lllotule.
No. 7 A li
lilondo.
I'rlco Jl.tO and 11.09.
Hole Mnnufuctuiern and I'atentceai
Imperial Chemlc.il Mfir Co. t'j2 KUth Avenu * ,
Now York.
In Omfclia sold by
Ai u tmuaamia AND IIMR
doing her utmoit to Itwlst that tucked skirt * .
tucked bodices , sleeves , etc. , are entirely
suitable for women who have panned their
second , third , and even their fourth decade ,
Skirls for the spring nnd summer will bo
tuckrd to above the knees , or otherwise- thor
will bo tucked on the tipper Instead of th
loner part of the skirt. If near the hem ,
the tucks are moderately wide. About the
nipt they are narrower , nnd as a rule the
Pleat * are laid perpendicularly.
Anton.
"Your majesty" U the manner In whlah
Mrs. Domlnls of Hawaii Is Invariably ad
dressed by her attendants during her present
visit In Washington.
It Ms said that Mrs. Althea Hrlggs-Slrykor
of Kansas is Mrs. Lease's mou powerful
rival. She is a quiet but persistent jottnrf
woman of 40 , with n soft voice and a ploaslnc
presptico. She Is the wife of the state super
intendent of education , but was in prominent
populist long before her husband was publicly
know n.
Minnie Ilatik lived ns n girl li the now deserted -
sorted town of Stunner , Kan. , three .miles be.
lo.v Atchlson , and waited on the table at hep
mother's boarding house. The Atchlson ( Hobs
says that she catno to Atclitson to glvo
concert , after she had become famous , but
she did not attract much attention except
ntnong a few ot her mothcr'n old boarders.
Lady Henry Somerset's Interest In the suf
ferings of the Armenians Is of a very prac
tical sort. Having learned that the rcfugej
In nulgarla were In distress she sent a
Woman doctor nnd two trained nursca from
London to care for those who are sick. A
refuge Is to be built and the work carried on
under the auspices of the World's Woman's
Christian Temperance union.
Mrs. Parncll haa Improved In health slnca
her return to Ireland. The * celebrated woman
Is at her old homo In Avondale county , with
her daughter , Mrs. Kmlly Dlckcnson , nnd her
granddaughter , Jlrs. Delia Clciiry. Mrsi
I'arnoll continues to bo a ptofound student
3f history , while oho receives with much
jagerncss every Item of news from tun
United States.
That professional and IniPlnens women
should bo In bed by 10 o'clock nt night , that
; boy should cat three substantial meals a
lay nnd two light ones between and that
hey should take regulir , brisk morning walk *
s the health theory of Mrs. Margaret Sang-
itcr. Mrs. Songster sayo she cannot find
.lino to go Into society , because It would
nterfcro with the regularity of her hours.
Mrs. Charlotte Perkins" Stetson asserts
hat men are the only members of the com-
mmlty who have homes. Women have to
ileop nnd live nnd eat tn the place where
hey do tholr work. ( She thinks that the
: rcalor part of the work now done In th
amlly dwelling Is destined eventually to ba
cmovcil from Its social precincts , and when
his Ls done , the KIJH , women will liavo
ionics.
Queen Amcllo of Portugal Is n physician
n "good nnd regular standing , " having
awed the examinations of the Eschola
'olytechnlcn , the leading college of Lisbon ,
nd taken Its degree. HIT services are given
xcluslvely to the poor among her subjects.
nd it Is said that she attends to her pro-
esslonal duties with as much zeal as a
'hyslclan dependent upon his profession for
upport.
Miss Grace Pntton , state superintendent
f public Instruction In Colorado , has long
pen ono of the faculty of the state ngrl-
ultural college nt Fort Collins. She Is a
oed speaker , and has done effective work
ir the democraticparty. . Her polltlolt
obby Is proportional representation , and
Jough It U her hobby , she rides It with
lodemtlon. She Is a voung woman , nllvo
3 the best educational Ideals ot the tlmo ;
mbitloua not for herself nlono , but to re- c
ect credit on her sex nnd her state. She
ill make nn efficient ofllccr.
Mrs. Stanford's gift to Stanford university
f the family mansion on Neb Hill , at San
'ranclsco ' , with all Its art treasures , sur-
rlsed no one who Is familiar with her dovo-
on to the Instlution. Her plan Is to erect
flno art gallery at Palo Alto , to which may
0 transferred many of the paintings and
orks of art In her homo after her death.
1 the address which she made to trio
ustecs nt the annual meeting she dwelt
i the importance of religious Ideals in
lucatlonal work and on the neglrct ot
lanual training which was inado clear by
10 reduction In the number of students In
10 course of mechanical arts.
Mra. James Robottom of Jersey City Is an
dofatlgablo student of everything Egyptian.
ivlng made such progress In her work that
10 great Egyptologists of Franco and Gcr-
any have written to urge her to complete
sr investigations by an extended stay la
10 land of the pyramids. Ten years ago
imebody loaned Mrs. Hobottora "Ona
housand Miles Up the Nile. " She read It
hllo convalescing from nn Illness , and bo-
imo so enamoured with the subject that sha
is pursued It vigilantly from that day ta
ils. She has lectured In Jersey City and ,
rooklyn several times , and has been Invited
i speak at Cornell. Ono ot her talks Is
lout Queen Hatasec , a legend of whom
lorns ono sldo ot the obelisk In Central
irk. This queen was the daughter of ono
the warrior kings of Egypt. Mrs. Ilobot-
m reads these legends easily , having long
QCO familiarized herself with hieroglyphics.
i.iiiiminnij The papers are full
of deaths from
Heart V
Failure
Of course
the heart fails to act
when a man dies ,
but "HeartFailure , " so called , nine
times out of ten b caused by Uric
Acid in the blood which the Kidneys
fail to remove , and which corrqdes
the heart until it becomes unable to
perform its functions.
Health Officers in many cities very
properly refuse to accept " Heart Fail
ure , " as a cause of death. It is fre
quently a sign of ignorance In the
physician , or may be given to cover
up the real cause.
A Medicine with 20 Years of
. . Success behind it .
will remove the poisonous Uric Acid
by putting the Kidneys in a. healthy
condition to that they will naturally
eliminate it.
Pozroni's Complexion
POWDUII produces a soft and beautiful sklni
t combines every element ot beauty and
mrlty.
T
' 'ree to Men
0 will tend you by mall ( In plain packagt )
SOMJTKIiV KIIKIJ , the j.owtrfut l ) .
triuiin'M VltuI ItcHlorullvu TaliK-ti ,
1 a legal guaranty to pennant-ntlx cum
it Miiulioml , Hi < ir-Aliii ' , WoiiloifMi ,
rlrm-flu | Una ( or&vtr MKlit ICinlxloiu
all unnatural dralnij tpctdlly restore * hvaltl
tierfect munhood.
e ha\e faith In our treatment , and U vri
d not cure you we would not Bend oui
lrln rilKH to try , and > > y when fcatlineij.
: STiil.V MKUICIN13 CO. , ( Incorporated. )
oIJoU.