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10 THE OMAHA DAILY B3&13 ; SUNDAY , TTEinUTAItY 14 , 1807.
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31 [ ft THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. * .
SPHIM1 ailMiIMJUY.
N Hint S > iorVlilcli AVnr < lie
AMiul of riiNhloti lllovt * .
NHW YORK , Teb. 11. It Is a strict roll-
Hon of fashionable foots Just now to say
that s 'ft s show which way the wind blows
r-ntti vs , both coarse ami fine , woven Into
the new model hats-all ready against the
very earliest prepared breath of spring. If
you reilly wish a new bit of headgear , and
dcslro It to typify that season known to the
posts as spring lingering In the lain of win
ter , or to the calendar as Tebruary nnd early
March , bo sure to select something with a
crown of velvet or satin felt and a brim ot
roilgh straw. That combination Is consid
ered I ho most perfect compromise between
thd past and the future months.
Instead of decking such a frame with
purple violets , use white flowers. A black
* nd white hat Is the acme of good taste , until
Lent gives us time for reflections on Easter
combinations and the subtle gaieties of the
genuine spring bonnet. A gicat many white
feathers are also In evidence , but they are
not halt so popular as wreaths of pure white
roses , potples and above all white violets ,
that are actually selling by the pound. A
quantity of green foliage Is always mixed
with the snowy blooms and bomcwherc , from
their midst , apilngs up a tall or tiny knot
of black or whlto ostrich tips. In exemplifi
cation of what has been said observe the
pretty toque among the batch of sketches.
Tim TRIUMPHANT TOQUD.
Toques , by the way , are colng to ef
fectually donn the wldo liaf later , so the
wise milliners ay , anil this is a now shape
of toque. Its -brim Is straw and black , the
crown of black velvet and Us floral band all
of white double popples To the rear the
A SPUING DONNKT.
brim nirrovvs and folds upon the crown , to
be fastened by a pair ot black hawk's wings
and a handeotno peaked head.
A hat of this build Is Intended for wear
right through the oprlng , 23 the other bmall
toque , that is designed for morning use ,
and might c-asilj be achieved by the most
amatcuilsh fingers. Its haid , round , low
crown is a clear violet feit with a brim of
black lace straw tinning up fiom the head
all aiound. In the rcur this brim gro-vs
| J { , ' uairo.v and stands cloiie against the crown ,
while In front a knot of white violets , over
the left temple , serves as a foothold for a
oniall corkado of bla.-k ostrich tlpa Thcro i ?
nothing difficult or expensive In a hit like
that , so suitable as a cronn for jn > joung
face and so Inexpensively put together.
The shape Is especially popular for mcrn-
ing shopping and chinch use , and as far
as Is consistent with the state of tlio weather
and quality of their hair , young women deny
themselves the use of veils This Is heroic
indeed , foi few complexions can bear the oald
sunlight's revelations , and few bangs the
playful breeze , but to go unveiled Is tie
new , chic and I'aitalan thing to do , hence the
amazing number of self-sacrificing disciples
of the now order.
BRIDESMAIDS' HATS.
A model It given ot the list revelation-
in the way of bridesmaids' headgear , for
that Is the name all wide hats now bear ,
as a bildc's attcndifnts are about the only
perso'is who any longer use broad bilms
It Is also called the carriage hat , and Us
brim and half the crown are of exceedingly
fine black chip that Is , an. inch and a half
of the brim is , the rest of It being made ot
llutcd folds of black mousseline de sole.
ThUi hi 1m , as noarl ) all do today , diminishes
toward the back , aud then about the bllglitlj
sugai-loiif ciown a broad band of dcllcat
black fabric Is laid , folded In Innumerable
little up-turning plaits.
Under the brim and Just behind the left
car n novel effect in decoration Is the tlus-
tn of palest blue conventionalized flmvcrs ,
with line bpr.ija depending fiotn the cluster.
Another Unpt of them slions vvbeie the long
A BRIDESMAID'S HAT.
black liuiH'3 fasten in and thus wo have It ,
on good authority , since this hat comes from
a 1'ailslan maieon of note , that no mora
brims v\ ill bo turned up behind and no n eire
combs of blossoms will rest agalust rear cells
of hair.
Indeed , all brims diminish , atU yet more
and more are trimmings to be heaped behind.
One [ irettv thing in black chip li.ia live big
crt'sh yellow ioes clamping the crown In a'
cliclc's segment , above thc.ni stands up an
airy pulling of nccordlon-j'Uiltej mousscllno
dc sole , and still over thuc a nodding group
of vvhltn plumes. All this fasten > d above
the cioun In tie rear , while In fruit both
, crown and brim are worn perfectly plain.
None of these hats descrluel are tipped over
i the > eyes ; that coquettliirvagary has Indeed
none out , save for the i-lalii walking John
1 .Bull shapes , which are puihlng Into : ho
place that the sturdy alpine onci pogsMted.
\\otiien who aie chopping for clotliei to
near on the Florida , southern C'allfainla end
.Mediterranean tours get Ihclr llat-crjivncd ,
rolling-brimmed John Bulls In brown pal
metto , or the coarser qunilty of black and
cream Panama , nnd trim them with crown
bands of ornamental straw braid , showing
tufts of cock feathers and clipped aigrettes
to left and right.
STRINGS ARE IN ,
From this tlmo on llttlo bonnets are to bo
woin on all occasions nnd every tiuly ti'Cd'sh
bonnet boasta a pair of strings. So a wreath
of roses with one tuft of bird of Paradise
crest and a pair of lace strings constitutes a
full dress bonnet. Later on the milliners
who will begin to build about bonnet frnmcs
for the Easter trade say that while lace
strings ate as fashionable us black cne.i and
quite as smait as either are strings ( if tar-
row velvet ribbon. The bow may be Knotted
to either side , or directly timler one's chin ,
or the two lace strings need not be Otawn
In n bow at all , but one tab end allowed to
cross the other and fasten with short
jeweled , or pearl-beaded pins under either
car.
car.Even In this mldseanon of bonnets and out
ward stagnation of fashions the new details
of dress crop out e.very day here nnd there.
It Is already pretty clcirly defined that our
spring ribbons will be plcot edged and dotted
Instead of figured nnd flowered. Some of the
latest patterns show a blending of colors In
fine variegated stripes on a prettily tinted
background ; a pink taffeta ribbon will bo
corded In pale blue nnd dotted in green nnd
black. Many hat ribbons of taffeta are
edged with silk muslin and that In turn
finished with a whlto satin selvage. A third
type and most lovely ribbon Is molrW lu
serpent scales , to shine with welid lights
and varying tones like llie back of a very
lively chameleon.
The grenadines have all arrived , along
with a now goods , to bo livsely used In
making cool dicss waists This Is n wHde
black chiffon , woven with broad black satin
stripes and then brocaded over In whlto
skeleton fern leaves and ghostly looking
orchid and Iris blossoms. Another recenl
arrival foi hat trimming glidlo making and
collar building Is the prottty drawn velvet
In the palest slndcs possible to Imagine ThH
Is a fabilc almost as light HE satin lu
weight , but lu terless and with changing
gleanis In Its very short pile
A LACE REVIVAL
Any ono who is linking up dancing and
dinner dresses at this moment niturally
orders them ot fipriired black or white not
over under petticoats ot changeable taffeta ;
this seems a sort of forerunner of a revival
of cntlrn gowns In blank and white lace. All
the gloves have bigger o.nd bigger buttons
as time goes on. Huge disks of pearl ap
pear on those for walking , whllo since close
sleeves nro Ir fashion again the long evening
cants arn rapidly buttoning far up the aim.
Ciltlcal taste demands tr > at a. v.hlte or pearl
dancing mousquetalro shall close tight and
smooth nerirlv up to the elbow Above this
it must wrinkle and the Blerrltz or Hern-
hard t pattern , without any buttoi s at all , Is
almost obsolete
February hi Ides are rcjolclne ; In a novelty
This Is a dainty bonnet made all of tulle
to pin far back on the head and seuo as a
point from which the v ll falls Some of
the bonnets are made only of tulle , some of
them arc entirely of myirtle and orange
flowers , and where the bride Is in luck her
bonnet is almest a cap of jewels , from
v hlch cascades of unstlffencd tulle ( loat over
her shoulders Another recent bridal fashIon -
Ion Is that of twisting round the waist a
narrow sash ot whlto satin , knotting It to
the right sldo In fiont and letting It fall
to her knees one single satin streamei
To this la fixed either her white bound
praycrbook or small pendant bouquet of
flowers The flowers are oftenest used where
a satin sash Is employed , while the book is
usually pendant from a double chain of
Parisian pearls , fixed to a hook at her w'alat.
I NINA FITCH.
MHS. GOULD'S MJIISnitT.
How SoiiitClil ! lrM iif 11 fJi-ent Mil
lionaire An'S'nkiMi CureOf. .
The most completely equipped nursery In
this country , If not In the world , is that in
Mrs. Gould's homo at Lakewood. "Nur
series , " more properly , for there are three
with a baby to each ; the two older childicn ,
Klngdon and Jay having arrived at the
mature ages of II and 9 , graduated from the
nursery proper at the advent of the last
young Gould , a year ago or thereabouis
The latest arrival la named Georpo for his
father , and his is nursery Iso 3 , Nos. 1 and
2 being occupied respectively by Mistresses
Maijo'y and Helen.
Ono of the piineipal equipments of a nur
sery next to a baby is a nurse , nnd with
this Important appendage each of the three
nurseries Is piovided ; in addition , there is a
tialncd nurse the klndjvhich receives 525
a week and all eipenses paid. She , the
ti alned nurse , is employed as the com-
majider-ln-chlef of the nursery army , that
thpio may be skilled knowledge always at
hind In case of croup or colic , or any In-
fnntllu disease to which even the Gould
children may be holts. With a tialned
nurse always at hand , Mrs Gould can feel
cnmpiratlvely at case in her mind , v-hen
sbo runs up to to"n to spend the nlijht at
the Waldorf , in ordri to attend the opera era
a dance.
The young Goulds ore a pretty healthy
young family , ovvliiK to the sensible man
ner In which 'hey ' arc being brought up no
sweets , much outdoor e\eiclso and "early
to bed and early to rise , " so that the
ti allied nuise's position is almost a sine
cure. Bcildu her bed room , she has her
own piiv.ito slttlns room , and her meals
served thcie. fjho has much time foi read-
In 1 , iul sewing and e\ctclse , and at Christ
mas and various holidays slip is hand
somely remembered with giftsa watch set
with diamonds being one of her latest pres
ents
In aJdltlnn < o thu tlnee babies , the three
muses and the trained nuifio other Tur-
nishlngs (7) ( ) of the Gould nuiserles aio san
itary airaniioments of tlu latest and most
appiovod styles ; each youngster has hlx
or her porcelain bathtub fa pni tableoi.e)1 )
there aio marhliu-s for testing baby's
weight upon occanhms ; light Kymmutio ap-
pnatus is piovlded for the- older child ! IMI ,
thu open firnplacis aio well guarded with
wire set i mis ; finall sUovs for "light Jioure-
Keeping" hivn coineis to themselves , v ith
cupboards , where tl. " fsw dHics and uten
sil * : ie-ce s.iry for nuinerv cookliinro ) l < opl ;
toys of evciy Known description nhnund ,
with hobby horsen mid steam cam galaro ;
many pretty and attiactlvo plctuies adotn
the walls and screens ate evciywheio
When baby leaches the ngo demanding
stesdy employ mcnt In order to Keep lltllo
filiKcrn fiom mischief , plenty ot pictures ,
a paste pot and a screen nut provided , and
great in the fun which follow K. When ono
screen In pistcd full of pictures 11 Is dis
patched to the gnrret or bonfire and an
other one commenced. Scissors without
points Is another feature , and Urn most
popular ono In these nurseileu. No nrrango-
ment.i nro made for window washing hy the
young Goulds Queen Victoria's pnt jvstlmo
when FU was an Infant , but possibly they
have never expressed any desire for thlf
practical employment , otherwise It would
lie provided , as every reasonaiile nls'a of
lier children Mrs , Gould tlcllghti to grat-
TIl'.S KOIt M'-SIIOTTKIIS. .
Him tuMiUit M < > n < * > Mltli nn Aiiiuti'iir
CIIIUITII.
An amateur camera Is usually regarded as
on object upon vUitch to spend money ,
rather than a means by which money can
bo made. Hut I know moro than one bright
young girl who nukes her "snapshot box"
pay Its way , and much more beside.
Perhaps the best way of Illustrating what
Is meant la to detail the success of a few
of these young persons , prefacing the re
cital with the proviso that onu cannot make
money nor lime much pleasure , either
with a camera till ono has mustered all the
details of the business.
To do well as an amateur , or a serai-
professional , ono should bo able to develop ,
print , mount and bandits nny department
with professional nicety and skill.
The first young woman I knew who made
money with her camera took , I must say ,
ix machine suitable ror taking portraits
Av
heads morcly-Mind It she had had , she would
a photograph in many ways superior to
any professional work I have ever eeon <
She was an enthusiast , and she had the
feeling forhcr work. She had not. ot course ,
not have been able to retouch such pictures
retouching being the one department it Is
best for the amateur not to attempt ; but ,
as she worked It , her plan did not call for
anything of the sort.
She was , when I saw her , at a mountain
resort , twenty miles from n lemon , and
nobody knows how many from a professional
photographer , i
She had partly paid her board at the hotel
an expensive one by taking views of the
bnlidltiGS and various picturesque spots about
to be used for reproduction lu an advertising
pamphlet.
She cpent long , laborious , happy days gel-
ting views of the surrounding scenery and
pictures of quaint mountain characters ,
cabins and characteristic scenes.
Tliesc sold readily among the guests at
the hotel , singly or mounted In albums and
with neatly decorated covers , and she told
mo that she had a market for them all
winter At home. Her best negatives of this
sort she enld she could sell , It she would
consent not to use them herself , to various
concerns In the large cities who deal in un-
mountpil photographs , or to photo-engraving
establishments , which make a specialty of
SOME EAIU.Y SPRING
KUting up Illustrations and advertising mat-
tor.
tor.Then
Then there were the guests at the hotel
who were alvais wanting to be photographed
singly or in group1 , with some landmark as
a background , and these pictures , she sold
by the dozen , like a professional , nnd at < i
spccllicd trte
The second girl I knew who made a s.uc-
c ° s3lth her camera had gone io far as to
hardly late with the amateins at all. She
lives lu the foulh , and she has made a spe-
claPy of iiCfiro t > pes. She began taking
negro chlldicn found that on account of the
dark tkln the work was quite different from
taking white people , and has gone steadily
forward till the it well known In the photo
graphic world.
She docs not confine licrcelf to comic
subjects , nor pure-blooded Africans , liut
lather seeks the most beautiful mode ! , ! she
can.
can.One
One of her plates , "A Madonna of the
Tubs , " showing a handborae yellow woman
who lies turned from her washing In the
picturesque "half banel" tub to pick up
and nurse her baby , sold recently for a
high pi Ice.
The laundrj work Is going on as It fre
quently does in that section , "down by a
Inanch" Ilie llttlo stream shov.a in the
background , the big vi'ash kettle in the fore ,
the piled up clothes , tlio handsome mother ,
and the pretty child make a picture any
artsl ! might be proud of
She has never mounted her v ork in al-
A PRETTY TOQUE.
bums , though I certainly think It would
sell well that way ; but sells It In collections
of ten pictures , under names like "Child
Life In Black and White , " "Unbleached Cot
ton' ( ten studies of cotton pickers , from
bloomlni ; young girls surrounded with the
cotton blossoms , to old men whose wool
shames In whiteness the bursting bolls they
cairy ) , and one which she Is always cold out
of , "Dusky Cherubs , " showing cunning
naked babies most quaintly pictured.
She makes a specialty too , of largo plc-
tuics , for framing and for portfolios , and , of
course , she hag now a large and expensive
cameia , but she began with one of tbo well-
known makes of snap-shot machine ? , and
she ays the made it pay from the begin
ning ,
The last girl I have to tell of Is by no
means the artist that either of these others
Is ; but she U a bright buslucfs woman and
she has done well.
She has a clientele among women who like
to have their new dresses or aonio little new
airangument ot their rooms photographed.
Sbo goes to them about once lu so often ,
and they keep her fairly busy.
Then she U a. ereat lover of animals , has
a. faculty with them which amounts to
positive genius , and she is in great demand
to make photographs of these much-prlzcxi
friends ot man and womankind who do netlike
like to go to the regular photographer.
She used to take her camera , she telte me ,
and go a llttlo.iwny out of town , stopping
where she TO I a pretty child , or where
the house aaidi grounds were In extremely
nlco order , or there was a fine do& or cat
about , and , sowing her work In the line
ask If the utonar would not like a photo
graph. < i < ft
She says ' * 1i seldom failed to find that
they would.oxjlllldren And pets are difficult
things to fret1 tf the studio In good condi
tion ; their McKircs , lee , ore worth double
taken amld"tAmlllar surroundings , and If
It were the -H1/ / ot the house and grounds
she liad the 'jWViniago that the regular pho
tographer cnirjtds so much to come out from
town to in/lie' 1 single picture , vvlillo she
would tahcs''a wilt dozen negatives in one
morning. r\ |
Underslan/ / ) , these young women , none o
them made a succera without trying. You
cannot do that with n camera any more
than you can with anything else In life
but they were not of greater artistic abilities
thin yourself , perhaps , and they did nothlnj
disagreeable , nothing ono could not do ant
remain a lady , and they have certainly made
money , as well as reputation and pleasure
out of their camera * .
A ( ! OHOK ) l'S ' PAV.
Milliard ( ioitld'M IXIrm HKiuit 1'rescii
In IIU rimiiMT.
Howard Gould Is determined to eclipse b
one mighty effort the previous expenditure
of young millionaires. His effort took a form
ot a fan for his fiancee , Miss Katharln
Clcmmons , known In private life us Viol
Uayan. Her mother lives at Palo Alto , Cal
Miss Clommons resides most of the year
In a very elegant little apartment In Nov
York , fitted out with gifts brought for he
from all quarters of the earth by youn
Howard Gould.
The fnn which has attracted so much nt
tcntlon was executed mostly In Paris , vvhcr
the best artists worked upon It. It Is
copy of tlio empire fans now so much car
. -"X
rltd by these who can afford them. The
empire fans have sticks of Ivoiy. They are
small , often being tiny enough to slip Into
a lady's sleeve , and they are slender enough
to lie In the bodice without discomfort.
But that has nothing to do with the cost.
One painted by Douguereau weighed only-
two ounces and was only six Inches long
When folded It was two inches wide
at its brondest part and no thicker than
three silver dollars , , yet It cost $ S,000.
This fan ordered by Howard Gould for his
fiancee is the work of eight of the most fa
mous ai lists of the day. The actual paint
ing of one of the artists could not for vari
ous reasoi'a be obtained , but an artist Just
as famous was employed to copy the paint
ing of the desired one.
The work Is all done upon the ivory sticks
of the fan. Thcro arc nine of these sticks ,
each six and one-half Inches In length The
Ivory Is of the most delicate cream color ,
without a cloud In it. The tint is the same
in all the sticks so that the ivory is on
exact match thioughout. This Is ono of the
most difficult things to obtain , a perfect
match in Ivory. The horymakers of Paris ,
London and New York , taking advantage
of this fad for Ivory fans , are holding the
smooth , even-tinted strips of ivory for largo
prices. Five hundred dollars a stick is not
above the price asked by them for nine
peifectly matched sticks of. the precious
material.
rcach of the sticks Is exquisitely carved
at the lower end The upper end Is round
ing. Upon the outside sticks there Is a
deep caning , with diamonds and turquoise
set In. The loop fastening the sticks to
gether Is heavy gold , set with diamonds.
In order to have the pictures as beautiful
as possible and as Interesting , there liavo
been selections made from famous paintings
Instead of whole cople-s of the bume , as the
painting must be clear , though small.
The llrst stick has Geiome's dancer from
"Tho Sward Dance " The second one Is ,
Ureton's "ribher Girl , " and the thlid Hon-
ncr's "Magdalen , " These are executed In
the most billllant colors. The bright dress
of the bword dancer and the saucy fumci of
her cigarette conliobt well with the sim
plicity of the fisher maiden with the basket
upon her shoulder. Magdalen's sorrowful
fnco comes next , nldo by sldo with Lo Solr's
Illustration for "Manon "
Lcscaut This Is
the center of the fan and a demure figure
the woman makes with her shawl and reti
cule.
cule.A
A charming vailety comes In the child of
Penault's "Innocence , " which is side by
side with Hlsson's ' 'Love's. Captive. " Chap
lin's "Soap Bubbles" Is next to the last
stick , and Douguercau's "Love Keels the
Thorn" completes the selection.
The designer carried out a pretty senti
ment in devotldg the first four sticks to a
Bohemian variety , ' and the s > econd four to
the theme of love. Those last sticks can
be left closed tanUbs the fair pluc eyes of
the owner caro/toirest upon thorn. Other
wise they can bo kept secret from the pry
ing gaze of thcuvortd
It Is said that 'this ' Ian cost $80,000 for
the paintings 'alone ' , $ i,000 foi the perfectly
matihed Ivoiy and ? 15,000 for the betting of
gold and diamonds and troquoUe. This
would make the fan cost $100,000 If such
be the case , ItMs'tho costliest trifle In the
world , and Mlro Clemmoiis has the honor
of owning the most expensive article over
Intiodiiccd Into" a 'lady's ' dress. Kach stick
is worthy a placet In the Metropolitan Mn
scum of Art , and the whole Is ono of the
wonders of UUM-world , roldci. It Is not as
long as your hand and only half as broad
as your palm *
The Gould family Is famous for making
e ch other extravagant presents On the
roairlage of the Countess Castellane , Miss
Helen Gould presented bcr slater with the
Ksterhaiy diamond , one of the ten famous
Jewels of the world. On the blith of the
Castcllano baby till" sent her sister eighty-
four dozen "pieces , " each marked with the
Cabtfllano crest. Howard Gould sent the
expectant baby a silver spoon with diamond
mend bowl and "He thou welcome" set in
amethjsU In the middle.
The fan , then , Is on a line with the rich a
ness of the gifts which the mother of Mrs
Clemmons says Is only one token of the In
tensely friendly feeling felt by the Goulds
for all their kin.
A very-Interesting letter was written from
Paris to a society woman lu this country ,
describing the marvelous empire fans being
painted for society queers. Among them il
wna a fan of solid gold , painted In oil col
or * , and Intended as a. birthday present to
Miss Virginia Talr. The fan had sccnei
around the old homo ot Millet at Dr.ibazon ,
whcro "Tlio Angolus" was painted , and
where young Millet now lives , The church
spire , the little village , the potato field , the
old woman who poses for the picture , and
finally a painted portrait ot Millet , com
pose the different sticks of the fan.
AUTISTIC CHA.MIIKIIS.
How You HIT flrlN' "On it" Itoonm Arc
llcatiflfull ) Uoeorntvili
Among national characteristics hardly nny
are moro worthy of study than these which
throw light on the training and education
ot young girls. In this respect , says the
Now York Herald , no tw > nations are ex
actly alike , though It is evident that In alt
Saxon nations the same line ot thought ,
leading to much the same results , will bo
manifest , just as la all Celtic nations quite
a different line of thought will be manifest ,
and ono leading to quite different results.
In England and Germany there are many
points of resemblance as regards the homo
life of young girls and tbo manner luslilch
they are trained. In those countries a llt
tlo girl , as soon aa she leaves the nursery ,
obtains a room which Is entirely her own
nnd which Is furnished by herself. There
she keeps all her treasures her vofkbox ,
her little eevvlng machine , her beloved books ,
her piano , her tea table and her many en
gravings , which she has collected from time
to time.
To this room she often Invites her llttlo
friends and she nrovldes them there with a
delicious feast. In this way she learns hot ?
to receive nor guests , how to prepare for a
dinner party and how to arrange a suitable
menu Girls tratne-1 In this way become nd-
mhablo housewives , and , after all , It la just
aa useful to know how to keep house prop
erly as it is to know how to dress becom
ingly.
A DELIGHTFUL ROOM.
In Franco the same c.iro is not taken as
regards the homo training of girls nnd the
result is that they often know very llttlo
about housekeeping when they get man led.
Hence , when they begin to keep house In
real earnwt , they often order their furniture
at haphazard and generally icly wholly on
those from whom they buy their goods , and
who are cither lacking In skill or experience.
In what an artistic and delightful manner
youni ; gills' rooms may bo decorated the fol
lowing Illustrations show The first is a har-
iiiony In blue , with an embroidery of Japan
ese * landscapes It conveys the Impression of
a v.nrm , daik night In Augu't , in which the
luminous petals fall from the flowering trees ,
whoso trembling branches scarcely seem able
to support the weight of such brilliant
splendor. In the background little figures
In light dresses venture on a bridge In ordci
to angle for Imaginary tish. We aio re
minded of a magic lantern as we look at
this decoration with Its daik water , which Is
ciosced by so manv bridges , and with the
so-nb ° r sky streaked with rosy bands , which
suggest to us the purple of the slowly dying
fc'lnsot Other panels represent the flight of
birds , their outspread "wings forming fan
tastic plcturei On the ceiling Is a cloud of
moths , attracted by a large , led moon , which
Is half veiled by an Irregular cluster of
boughs. Slmll-ir moths appear on the
bordeis of tile curtains or portieres.
It Is dlfilcult to Imagine anything moro
original or In better taste than this style of
decoration. And yet It Is simply composed
of different kinds ot cotton , which are so
skillfully co'oied that they seem to bo a
genuine painting. For a room of this kind
mahogany furniture should b piovlded , after
the English fashion ; the bed may be of
biats or wood , according to one's taste
In the bureau there should be a number of
little drawers. In which the various fragile
and coquettish articles necessary for the
toilet may be kept , and Instead of the ordi
nal v porcelain toilet set , which Is so easily
bioken there should bo ono of silver or some
other durable material.
On the floor there should be a serviceable
piece of linoleum , as It Is easily kept clean
and does not collect dqst like a woolen
carpet Of course the design of the linoleum
leum should bo in harmony with the furnl-
iure and the decoration of the room.
AN ARTISTIC CHAMBER.
The second Illustration depicts a room
tha decoration of which Is of a pale color ,
while on the pinels , curtains and portieres
aia clustered hollyhocks , which bend slightly
jeneath the weight of many colored butter-
lies Ovei the celling again Is scattered
i profusion of butteiflies of all colors , all
) ? atherpd there In order to delight the eye.
In a room of this kind there should be ele
gant furniture of very light wood and
stamped with designs In Imitation of mothcr-
of-peail Tor such a purpose no better
wood than sjcamoie can bo found. The bed
and the buiean should bo ot the Louis XVI
ctylo and the linoleum should bo of a blue
ind tawny color.
On the mantelpiece may bo placed a shelf
for holding books , bibelots and photographs ,
and. If woiks or art ) are desired , nothing Is
letter than repieductions of Tanagra. In
nem yoj will have splendid specimens of
intique art. Here and there In the room
nay bo small tables and chairs , with many
coloud cushions , and In a corner may stand
ho pHno , which will furnbh the occupant
and her fil ° nds with many an hour's
amusement. It should , of course , bo fash-
oued In a style that will match the rest
of the furniture.
It v. 111 be seen that It Is not a dlfilcult
ask to furnish young girls with tastefully
lecorated loims , and that It Is well to teach
hem from their childhood the beauty of
artistic biirroundlngs will hardly bo do-
iled. And any room can be artistically
urnished and decorated at a comparatively
mall experse. Decorations that are gene
ulna works of art and furniture that is of I
plendld workmanship cost , of course , a a
; oed d ° al of money , but simple decorations
hat will plotse the eye and fuinlture anil
lint will bo at the snnio time both sensible
nd aitlstlc can leadlly bo procured and will
lot cost more than vulgar decorations and
unslgutly furniture
Till : OAIIIMJT ICINfi.
Ir.s. CI < - \ rlnml'N lnst ClirlNtiniiH Rift
In Hie White HOIINI- .
"Novor was there such a craze for tur-
tinlso before Never was it so hard to
11 orders as this season , for some reason
r other ! "
Such was the complaint of the Washington
Jewelers , aud many orders wore filled by
them in Now York , for the Christmas of
c
1SDO
Mis. Cleveland was once heard to say that
of all stones the turquoise was her favorite.
She was very fond of her beautiful diamonds ,
the gifts of her husband , and many rare
Jewels , given her by dear friends , but she *
"dlil so love a pale-bluo tiirquolze. " S
The ladles of the cabinet mot In council.
They wished to make a Christmas gift to '
their beloved frlond and leader , Mrs. Cleveland - .
land , upon the last Christmas day of the
administration ,
They desired ! It to be entirely suitable.
"Not too costly and formal ; not too prac
tical and commonplace ; not too cumbersome
to cairy from the whlto house to tholr homo. "
It must bo rich In sentiment , delicacy and
womanly appreciation. Respect , admiration
and a small souvenir of their happy life . ;
together at the capital. '
What more beautiful than a ring ? What , >
moro simple , delicate , tender In snitlmcm "
than a turquoise1' "True blue' flit ujifliJl
stone of Persia meaning faithfulness.
One of the ladles of the cabinet went ( o
New Voik and made the selection. It wet ,
the finest to bo found , and the only ono of
Its kind In the city.
The turquoise , we read , first came from
Tin key , and were of great value. Later large ;
clnitcu of the same stone In rentform shape
were discovered in Persia , where , since that
early date. It Is found In quantities , cut and
sold to all parts of the world , Ita peculiar
green-bluish color la greatly Intensified by
polishing , and much richer , deeper color is
found in enine stones than otheis.
The beautiful Christmas gift from the cabi
net ladles to the "first lady of the land"
posseraes all the qualities of deep , rich color ,
slzo , polish and exquUlte setting. n ;
Mrs. Cleveland says cno has "never re In
ceived a gift moro beautiful In sentiment , II ;
taste and artistic beauty than this , nor one c (
moro precious as a souvenir of delightful 0
friends and happy days together , " |
She wears It next her wedding ring , with ri
small diamond to flash acioss the blue. "Jof
I'll Nil I ( I II All I I'M , of f
Black gowns are to bo very much the
favhlon this coming season , and black burego
made over a color forms a charming drew.
The now cLalllea are patterned very nearly
like the China gllks , and the prettiest do-
n show a satin stripe the color of the
ground ,
Stitched bands ot cloth appear as trim-
The Boston Store Drug Dept.
Mme. YALE'S
GREAT REMEDIES
FOR THE HEALTH , HAIR AND COMPLEXION.
Truly a Revelation to Science.
Mme. Yale nays there Is no limit to beautifying ntut no reason why any woman ihouM not
become beautiful from the lire of lior remedied
La < llcs , Mme. 'inlc's Orentest itemtdlcs nr < - on dally exhibition nt our Toilet Department.
We enuoine tliem anj recommend them above all others , our prices are below nil othtr dealers ,
ana we sell fre h good * newly manufactured direct from Mme. Vole's laboratories.
GUT PRIORS.
Mine , Inlc'N "Skin Pooil" nemoves Wrinkles , llostorcs Youth. Small. $1 IS ; law , } ! .
Mine , inlr'n ' "lliiNj rooil' ror dev eloping Neck , llust imd Arms Hmili , $1 S3 , law , : .
. . "
.Minr. Inlr'.i "Cmiiiilfxlnii lllecc-Ji" Clears the Complexion , Removes nil Skin lllem-
Ishcj. tl 75 |
Mine. Vnlp'H "Almonil IltoNnom Complexion Crcnin" Keeps the Complexion 1'cr-
fect. 4uC. ,
MllHJ lnUt' " " 1'l * "f Iloiuil > " Crontcs a Itony Glow of Natural Color ; a Skin Tonic
Mm < - . Vnlen | " "Hniiil Wlillrnrr" Makes the Hand Soft. Delicate nn < l White. 75e
Mine. ; " "l-scMmlor llnlr Tunics" n eclentlllc medicine for tvstorJns tlio hair to
perfect health and Its natural color Stops hair falling , cures dandruff and all known
ailments of the Imlr : does not effect the '
hair's natural color ! can bo Used by blondes or
brunettes , children or adults , ot either ncx. TSc
Mine. * nIi > ; H "Hulr Clrniirr , " a perfect Shampoo : HlRhly Medicated. 75c.
Mine , liilv'n " ! riiKleurn , " a female Tonle , surpassei In merit anything ever dis
covered for curing the complaint * peculiar to the sex. 73o.
.Mine. Inlr'H ' 'Illoo.l Tonic " '
, a a real Illood 1'urlner nnd Oeneml Tonic for building up
tt run-down Byctem and acting upon the blood , liver nd kidney -clv Ing btrength , Mcor
and 1'urlty to all the Vital Orean of tlthcr rex-chlMren or adult. 7i
Mine. liilp'H "rrrtlllrrr. " a I'OBltlvc cure for Constipation. tlZ
Mine. Ynlp'M ' "ippclnl Ointment" nnd
Mine. Ynle'H "Special I.ollou"a positive Cure for Dlnckheads. Pimples nnd all manner
of irttptlv Skin Diseases. To bo used a directed ! The Ointment before retiring and
the I.otlnn In the morningTCe. . .
Mine , liilc'n "i : > e Ilr < MV mill n > p-T.nih Oronor , " for Promoting the CJrowth of
ije IlrovtD nnd Lnsliei. Tnilyondorful. . 7r.e.
Mine. Ynle'M I'lU'e 1'onclpr 9 shades. Flesh , 'VVhlte , Cream , 35o ,
Mine. Ynlp'n Coiniiloxloii .Snap. ITc.
Mine. Ynle'n " .Inok Hone Lcixien , " a Iloso rink Unt for the Chceki-pcrfect Imlt.itlon
of nature. "Bo.
Mine. Ynle'H 'ItciKpIlniTn" T.lp Satvp " ! r > c. i
Mine. A iilc'n Tnmmix ( iiililu lei Moiiutjfree. . AMc for one. Mall orders sent to
any part of America. |
The Boston Store Drug Dept , , Omaha.
DuriiiR this wcclc a present will be given with every ntii'clmsc of
MME. VALE'S Prepnrations.
inlng on some of the tailor B ° "ns > anJ ( a
profusion ot tiny gold buttons are a prolty
addition.
Train ? nnd dcml-tralns are tnldng In a
great degree the place ot shorter skirts ,
except for street and sti icily utllltarlau
gowns.
Surpllco effects In chiffon arc especially
pretty for low-cut evening dresses , and the
addition of a short lace bolero will trans-
foiiu this bodlco Into acry desirable din
ner \\alst.
Accordion plaiting Is revived again , and.
used in e\eiy manner Imaginable , and oc-
cordlon-plalted skirts In all the thin ma
terials will bo very much In evidence later
on ,
The application ot cream-white cloth on
a colored cloth gown , cut In some 1'etslan
design , and braided all around the edges
and over the surface In black silk braid , Is
one of the novel tilmmlngs for cloth dresses.
Square collars , In sailor shape , except that
they are very nairo\\ , are seen on nnny of
the new gowns , nnd are covered with em
broidery of. various sorts in black , white or
cream , mixed with colored silks and beads.
A green cloth gown with n bolero has
a wldo black satin belt ; the skirt tilmmlug
consists of black braid across the box plait
In the back , finished at the end with a tlnj
gilt buttons. The vest of green velvet has
a similar decoration.
A pretty tailor-made gown Is made with an
Eton coat , braided with black , and a full
accordion-plaited vest of green silk. The
sleeves are very close fitting , with small
puffs at the top , which are slashed to show
the plaited silk underneath.
Holeros of lace or combinations of lace
embroldciy and beads are a good Investment
for summer gowns , and a very attractive
bolero can be made out of a piece of white
edging with a box plait In the middle of the
back and one on either sldo of the front ,
beginning on the shoulder.
Serges and double cashmeres will be worn
as much as ev er. The broken checks , w 1th
several colors blended together , seem to pre
dominate , and they are more servlccabl
than the plain colors for ordinary wear in
anything hut serges , which is about the mos
satisfactory material there is
The vatiety In bodice decoration has n
limit , but just at the moment crossed-ovc
and one-sided effects are very popular , an
this is a very acceptable change from th
vests which have prevailed so long , excep
when It Is applied to the back , where , it I
not Mich a happy hit , as it spoils the line
of the flg-ire.
The general effect of coloring and design
among the new wool stuffs for hack-abou
gowns Is not materially different from las
season , but time has developed a greate
variety. There are checks , hair-line stripes
and mixtures of all sorts among the Scotcl
goods , cheviots and tweeds , and smooth
faced cloths in light weight.
The new linen batistes are very fine am
sheer , and among the novelties are robe
dresses , both ecrn and white , elaborately
embroidered In self color. The skirts an
round and full and practically made , since
they require very llttlo fixing to get them
ready for wear , and the plain material for
waists and sleeves has a narrow embrolderei
edge.
edge.Navy
Navy blue , pale green and pile blue , in
combination with white , nro favorite colors
In China silks , dlmltlcs and organdies , and
a plum blue Is the now cat tint among the
foulards It is simply a navy blue with a
rich tlngo of purple , and Isory effectlvo
as a background for the white pattern , which
Is usually a largo bcroll 01 a whirl ot white
lines.
The prevailing style of tailor pawn Is
nado with a coat of some sort , usually tight-
fitting and short , the coat strapped and
tilmmcd with small bteel buttons The vest
s of guipure lace. It la the proper thing to
liavo two or three vests for ono KO\MI , and
ivhlto satin covered with jet spangles and
beads sown in a scroll pattern makes a. very
Jressy one.
Thd material which Is to supersedecrcpon
a a silk and wool barc c , and one quality ,
ivhlch Is very thin , almost llkq a silk grena-
Jlno , la called "baiego iinprlmo. " This
omes in both light and dark colors , with
scroll designs on the black giounds and
lowered patterns on cioam and ecru tlntod
grounds. It is soft and pllablo like clmllle ,
uiil especially charming In the light colors.
Fashionable modistes say that they miKe
icatly aa many fancy zouave bolero and
Spanish Jackets or jacket effects for stout
is for slender women. These Jackets Inter-
'cio In no way with the nutllno or slzo of
.ho waist , and the latter bioad effect 4m-
i.irtod by the jacket unites the waist look
imaller by contrast , and at tlio same time
ones and conceals the over-full outlines
ibovo it.
The puzzle ns to thoKituro rut In skirts
Uilch will prevail during the mi miner Is
itlll unsolved , and , whllo the skirt which is
orcd plainly on the hips and full In the
iack , seems to bo the favoiito now , many
f ; the now gowns being made up for wear
n the south have straight sklrtti over u
veil gored and fitted lining , which is at-
ached to the outer skirt only at the belt
ind the grama. Ono utylo of skirt which ;
a very graceful and much liked in cut cir
cular at tbo side and haa a goted front
ircadth and three straight widths in the
mclc. the middle one of which Is woli
ored on both edges to give the pretty
iwlng at the bottom.
Historical effects will predominate among
h charming toilets for bridesmaids at
Saster nnd post-Haster woddliu-s Oppoitu-
ilty will thus he uffjrded for the solru-
ion of uncommonly ilcli and clod nt ux-
lies , and for Individual choice ) e irllig
urtaln appropriate and becoming replicas
he beautiful Marie Antoinette models will
IB highly favored , with their rviiihltely
Inn-flowered sJtln brocades and fascinating
ace flchus and other lace decorations , tholr
larltig collar * and Jonol-garnlsheil high
Olftures , Queen Dess toilets with their
tpon fronts of royal brocade , their Jingo
uffs and quaint puffed alcoves , wilt be an
ther favored selection , and then follow the
oetic pompidour gowns , the unique robes
renaissance queens , the Mary Stuart
refines In velvet , lace and Bit In punlngs ,
lie so frequently chosen by the dignified
lathers of tbo bride and groom to complete
bo artistic effect in church or drawing
oem ,
Among the elegant gown to ho worn In
VasbluKtou next month are- some very [
outhful ones ot white satin , cut neither
square nor rounding In the neck , but low
at each sldo to show the shoulders cntiro ,
but not extremely low Just In front nor at
the hick. These low corsages nro called the
Recamler style , nnd they are cither draped
all round the open edge with airy lace or
moiisselalno do sole , caught hero nud there
with a rose or a buckle of scintillating
French brilliants , or the corsage has a
garland of half-brown roses or perfumed
Parma violets around the low neck The
round waist is completed by a broad cclnttiro
. of sitln folds fastened by these slashed
points on the left side , held by rosebud
clusters or rhlnestone buckles. The very
short full sleeve-puffs are unllned to show
the arm above the long gloves , nnd the soft
foils of lace , chiffon , or satin that form
them aio caught up either with a rose or a
gem-sot ornament. The skirts have a very
slight train , and are wholly untrlmmed lo
this particular instance
I'Viiiiiilnr NotoH.
Mrs. William J. Ilryan has sent the ladle *
of the Congregational church at Reno , Wash. ,
a lined piece for their fajr , worked by her
self.
Possibly the oldest woman In nngland is
Sarah Thomas , 109 yeais of age. Mrs.
Thomas Ins smoked a clay plpo for sixty
years and bids fair to enjoy life and to
bacco for some years to come.
Queen Victoria has conferred the royal
Order of Victoria and Albert upon the em
press of Russia , who has iccelvcd the first
class , and upon the duchess ot Yoik , to
whom'the second clabs has been given.
Prauleln Klsa Eschclseu will probably be
the first woman In Sweden to take the de
gree of doctor of laws , as she received spe
cial permission from King Oscar to plead
at the Upsala university foi her LL D.
The queen of Holland has sent to the
British and roielgn Sailors' society , "as a
further , nnik of her majesty's sympathy , "
a gift of 10. The society has had an Im-
poitant station in the port of Rotterdam
since 1S78.
Hart let Maxwell Converse , the Indian
chieftain , is soon to start out on a lecturing
tour , her subjects being the history and tia-
dltlons of the red men. She Is a fluent
speaker , an able writer and understands her
subject perfectly.
The queen has sent a present of twenty
pheasants for the use of the patients ot St.
Gcoige's hospital , says an English paper.
Evidently Victoria known that dainty fa.-
Is appreciated at other places as well ai
nt Wludsoi.
Mrs. Asqulth. vvlfo of the English states
man nnd oilglnal of Mr. Benson's "Dodo , "
is probably ono of the best known woman
visitors to prltons It is said that female
convlcta reveal more of their secrets to her
than to any ono else.
Congressman-elect Vincent of the Fifth
Kansas district announces the selection of
his private secretary in the person ot ills
young daughter. Miss Vincent Is now In
Topeka learning shorthand and In other
ways equipping herself for her Washington
duties.
The Gland Duchess Xenla Alexandrovna ,
the czar's sister , has taken much Interest
In the St. Petersburg bazaar for the ercc- "
tlon of a now tomponry homo for bablog ,
of the nature of a creche. Careful nurses
will be employed to look after the children
while the mothers are at work.
Panny Ccrlto IB now the only survivor of
the 1SI5 "Pas do Quatro " The other tlneo
were Fanny Elsaler , Cailotta Grlsl and
Tagllonl. Mine Cerlto , although consider
ably over 70 , Is still very active , and at
tended some of the festivities held In Paris
on the ocjjslon of the c/.ai'.s visit.
MJ H Hllrabeth Nourto , who Is known tea
a wldo circle of Wabhlngtonlans , will shortly
leave Pails for Tunis She expects to remiln - >
there some time , making chaiactor bkotehcs
of Arab life , and these who have fecn her
pictures when they have boon exhibited feel
confident that her ability will command
SIKCCSH in this , as In other fields in which
she has worked.
Mrs. Hobbs , nn intimate friend of the flr&t
duke of Wellington , has Just died In Ire
land nt the go of 103 years. Her husband
was badly wounded at Quatro llras. Flvo
of her fourteen children and six of licr
forty-four grandchildren are hervlng In tlio
British army , and she has besides thirty-two
Bic-at-Krundchlldicn and two great-gre-at-
grandchildren , On her 100th birthday the
Juke of Cambridge congratulated her In bo-
Inlf of the army.
Kvtillno Leo , an aged ncgress vvlio died
recently at Macou. Mo , , was burled with all
the ceremony the village church could pro-
Yldn , and many wealthy country folk at
tended the services. She was 90 yoirs old ,
Imrn in alaveiy , and had devoted forty years
jf her llfo to serving the Nolan family.
When the emancipation proclamation was
Issued she declined to leave her mistress.
Aunt Kvallno was that rare bird amwig ne
groes , an oh ! maid ,
Whllo combined salaries of COO railway
iresldunts foot up for one year $2,000,000 , tha
i.imo number of men who throw switches ,
wlst biakes on3 punch tickets earn In the
iinio period aggre-gato vvagi sfof $300,000.
Imperial Hair Regenerator
will make tr hair beauti
ful , KOB ! > ' anil natural no
mutter how n t r o a k y ,
W.KM'KU or OKAY It
nny lie.
It IK clean , odcrleaii , Hat-
In , ? II does not contain
an ntoin of iioKonoua mal
lei Jiathi do not rffect It ,
neither does cut line or
for I he JIKAHI ) on account -
of lln duialilllty and clean-
Ilncm
No 1 Dlack.
No Z Dark
Ilrnwn.
No. J Medium
lllovtn
No 4 ( hcBtimt
No. I Iiglit
riitatnut ,
Kb C. Gold
lltomlt )
No , 7 A h
UloiiJe.
I'rlc * II 60 and 13 (0
Hols Manufacturer * nnd Patentees
Imtwrlal CIiuiilcnl lilt ; Co. VW rifih Avenu %
* New York.
n Omaha Mild l > y
AI.I UHUUaiBTfl AND HAIK DRRSBKRO.