10 TIIT3 OMAHA DAILY BfT3S : SUNDAY , ITBIHUTAIIY 7 , 1807.
IM
* jsi r IN THE OF WOMAN. |
punxcii FASIHOVS. :
New * from tlic A < ellern of Grent I'nrl-
Mlnn Moitlntrn.
( PAniS , Jan. 22. The dressmaker * say that
It we have passed the day of wide skirts nnd
wide sleeves \ro are not to bo reduced to the
proportions of mother nature for all that.
.Volume . will bo replaced by ornament. The
trimming , which for two or three years
lias been tnasseil entirely on the blouse , has
eh If ted Us ground to the skirt anil sleeves.
Spring will ceo both thcso members elabor
ated out of all memory. They will be strlpd
with galleon and ribbon , they will be en
riched * with appliques , the skirt will be ruf
fled to the top and the sleeves will be rufllod
at the elbow ; and all this , If It does not
odd to the width In actuality , will still add In
effect , which amounts to the same thing.
There has been for a long tlmo no change
BO Important as this shifting of base for the
( rimming. It has an air of some * permanence
and. seems to Indicate that a now style has
finally appeared ,
A comparatively small amount of material
will now make a gown , but to suppose from
FANCY WOOL.
this that the cost will be lessened will bo
going too fast , for the trimmings may moro
than make up the balance. Galleon , for In
stance , looks Innocent enough as to cost , hut
If one puts from fifty to eighty yards on a
gown , as may very well happen It this gown
Is zebraed to the top notch of fashion , this
galleon may cost much more than tha rest
of the gown. The conclusion then Is that the
new style wilt perhaps be chic , but that it
will Jiot be cheap1"
The effect being nought In the trimmings
Is not so much Intricacy as sharp contrast
with. the ground. Simple bands with a
straight edge' ore used rather than fine
braidings or openwork passementerie. This
observation is Important , for in It lies the
difference between a commonplace result
and distinction.
Galleons are the latest fangle , and proh-
ably the amount being worn would strap
the earth round many times. Skirts and
,1 sleeves are covered -with It from top to bot-
torn , nnd the fashion Is far from touching
Its end. It will have developments In the
spring and an enormous amount of black
velvet ribbon Is In preparation at Lyons.
There Is a great deal 'of applique. The
"Worths are making ball gowns of mousse-
Jlnp de.solo appllqued with nioussellno. of
another color or tone , as deep violet on palo
violet , orange on yellow , etc. Cloth gowns
have the boleros covered over with applique
In silk , tone on tone. Tills sort of orna
mentation Is &o dlfflcult to make as to be
hardly within the reach of the ordinary
purse ; at the same time It mu t be taken
account of because It Is a fashion that has' '
produced a revolution in the making of
lace. Lace IS now made specially for ap
pliques. Formerly In choosing lace ono
bought an edge or an Insertion , or even a
length by the piece , 'but ' these old bound
aries have now disappeared , and It Is to be
ihad in all Imaginable forms. Plccos are
made , to fit anywhere and everywhere on the
gown. The taste for this hort of thing Is'
on the Increase , and will grow Into flower
next spring.
i SOME NEW GOWNS.
The gowns described below have Just been
. . BRde for Ularrltz. They embody some of the
latest noveltloi and the reader may unhesi
tatingly take them as models for the deml-
tcason ahead. The first one is of smoke
brown velvet anil cjoth. The skirt has tha
upper part of cloth and the lower part ot
vclv'pt. The velvet has the upper edge In a
curve that sweeps upward toward the back ;
U li slightly gathered , but scarcely enough
so to ho called a nilllc the width being given
i.a < SCOTCH PLAID.
" "by godcts , nrd It l eewed on with a cord of
the cluth , This division of the eklrt prrmlts
( "the upper part to he fitted close1 , while the
lower part flares , thus giving an extremely
fashionable tllhouette. The blouto and. filcevcs
are of cloth and there Is a bolc-ro nf the
velvet. The bolero has cquare Jockeys Unit
fall out over the sleeves , ami a collar that
will tiland high or may be turned "over at
< will ; It li open in front and runs up shorter
'behind to form a parallel with the curved
line In I lie skirt.
* A notable creation Is of black cloth
vvjrlininoil with vjolct velvet. At the top of
; % he skirt U a clutter oC velvet piping * run
ning round. The bauds dip a little round
the front and reach quite to the belt be-
- hind. It should bo remarked that skirts
that permit this treatment have no gathers
at all brbliid , but two Hat plaits only , one
on cr.ch elde , which tura under and. meet.
The bodlco ot this gown Is partly covered
with a bolero In three stages with Jockeys
trimmed with pipings running round to
match the skirt. The bolero U clouble-
brcastod and fastened down the left sldo
and In the cdgo from the neck down Is a
c.-lmped ruffle of violet taffeta veiled by n
crimped ruffle of black chiffon. This dress
Is oxquUltcly completed with a black hat
covered with parma violets and ft neck
ruche ana muff made of black chiffon ruffles
mingled with knots of violet velvet.
It will be useful to observe that where
there are so many bands ot trimming there
must bo care that the lines do not make
a discord. They should not run up and
down on the bodice , for example , and run
round on the skirt , but they should keep
the jsamo Central direction ! The care to be
taken In this regard Is Illustrated In the
following irodcl. The blouse Is of elephant-
gray velvet , striped up nnd down with bands
of gray-bluo cloth. The bands arc cut bias ,
nro of graduated widths , and are stitched
down on both edges. The velvet sleeves are
left plain. The skirt with this blouse Is
of gray cloth and Is without any trimming
at all. The blouse Is fastened down ono
sldo with platted taffeta ruffles , blue and
Cray set In the edge , an Idea In great vogue ,
and the same ruffles arc at the top of the
neckband and In Uio sleeves. A very origi
nal hat goes with this dress. It Is all black
nnd Is made of satin with a wide velvet
binding round the cdgo. The binding is
an inch wide. Thrso wide bindings are the
latest cry , A velvet scarf Is drawn loosely
round the crown and some'enormous black
popples are at ono sldo toward the back.
FLOUNCES HAVE .REAPPEARED.
It Is perhaps n little premature to rec
ommend flounced skirts. Several have been
made , but It seems not yet quite certain
whether the Idea will take or whether
It will remain on ? among the many
experiments tried and dropped every spring.
This Is a word lo the prudent , and , having
spoken It , the conscientious writer mas go
on to describe what dressmakers say will
bo the great rage In the spring.
The llounced skirt Is in three stages or
It nay bo In five. If the material Is
thick the flounces are cut In godcts , that
Is to say , In a curve , ns capes used to bo
cut , , which , when straightened out , gives
fullness without gathers. Lay the pattern on
the cloth so that the texture will run
straight In the front and bias on the sides.
The flounces arc lined with thin silk be
fore mounting on the skirt. Thus a model
Is made with the skirt of bolge mousseline
do sole brocaded with a llttlo meander In
white and a bolero and sleeves of beige vel
vet. The bolero fits close and fastens In
visibly , with the effect ) of a yoke. Narrow
white belt. This gown Is made for the
Riviera ; for a colder cllmato It may ho
copied in darker colors.
When the flounces are of thin material
they may bo cut stralghtways of the cloth and
gathered or plaited. Thus an all-black dinner
gown has the skirt In three plaited flounces
of 'mousbellno da sole , with a blouse of vel
vet and Jet and long shirred sleeves of the
mousselme. ' Attention should be called to
an Innovation In this gown. Little flaps of
velvet not moro than two or two and a
half Inches deep are added on below the belt ,
carrying the blouse down with the suggestion
of a basque. They are sewed to the skirt
CLOTH AND VELVET STREET GOWN.
so as not to add thickness round the waist.
I have been a 'black ' gown with these little
bayques made of green velvet , and at the top
of the neck baud a turnover collar to match.
FIVE O'CLOCK ' TEA.
The fair -Parisian has her day at home ,
or rather her hour , ; for from G to 7 Is now
thought quite time enough to give to a re
ception. She wears the most delicious of
robes d'lnterleur , which correspond not at
all to the Engllsh-spealUng woman's tea
gown , as I have had occasion to say In these
columns before , She prefers a. fanciful
'
blouse with silk or other skirt , a belted
effect. The following are suggestions for
this Eort of dre .e :
A black satin skirt In side plaits ; a blouse
nf gray mot : sellne gathered full and falling
over the bejt all the way around , with long
ehlrrcd sleeves of the same ; a sleeveless
bolero of gray velvet with appliques of
passementerie In gay colors and a narrow
plaiting ot gray ribbon set under the cdgo
all the way around. The colored applique Is
repeated n round the top of the blouse neck
band. Another Idea Is a skirt of navy blue
velveteen , with a blouse of red and blue
pllk In cashmere pattern , blue velveteen turn-
don n collar and ribbon tie. Still another is
o blouse and skirt , both In cashmcro printed
foulard , with a wide belt of dark blue , A
veiling skirt In gray blue Is trimmed with a
black chiffon plaiting around the bottom ,
beadrd with Jet , anil nnothtr half way up.
Blouse of black chiffon.
In gowns that liang loose- from the
shoulder , . reppr\cd ; for the days at homo
when ono does not expect guests- novelty
Is a loose dressing gown entirely sldo plaited
and falling open over a full-belted front.
This Is carried out In gray veiling with a
border of black and white sill : pipings. The
front underneath Is of gray muussellno do
Bole , with a belt of cherry velvet , A dressIng -
Ing gown being worn by lime. Ilejano Is of
vhlt veiling , cut lllio the ono Just de
scribed , open over a front of yellow lace.
It U bordered with chinchilla fur. The
alcoves are loose all the way down. They are
cut much longer than the arm , and are
turned tip to show a Bilk facing , A lace
umlcr-sleovu falls on the hand.
Now breakfast jackets ore made with a
yoke pointed slightly upward In the middle
of the front and In the middle ot the back ,
and from under this yoke falls a plaiting
to the length desired. This Is made In
plain or In colored flannels , the yoke and
skt-vcs bordered with black velvet ribbon.
It Is also madn In liberty velveteens. The
slcevo Is close like .a dress sleeve , or It Is
loose or plaited Into a band according to
fancy. The game Idea Is carried out in
dresilng gowns. Thus a gown of brown
llannrl , with yoke and sleeves of brown
velveteen , or a gown all of gray blue ilauuel
lined with black , with black facings at the
neck and sleeves and a blue satin ribbon
drawn round under tbo arms , at the cdgo
of the yoke and tied in front with long
ends.
NOVEL DETAILS.
Artificial flowers of enormous size are
a fashionable " novelty. They are used
not only on hats , but also on evening gownu.
High-necked gowns wort ) at the theater have
a bunch of thcte mastodons at the belt ,
Popples and clirye&nthemuius seem to have
the f ror. On the other hand violets keep
all their popularity and are used In profusion
on the hats made for the deml season. It Is
said that moro toques than hats will bo
ttorn In the spring , though this Is given
under all reserve , for It Is scarcely safe to
believe millinery reports in advance. One
thing appears certain , the Amazon form will
not turn up again. The milliners , when this
subject U mentioned , are absolutely mumj
they have not yet outlived their chagrin.
TfcoYoguo for pearls has continued to grow
till they have nearly usurped the place ot nil
other gems. At the grand dejeuner given by
literary and social Paris to Sarah Bern-
hardt the other day the profusion of pearls
worn by the women was much remarked.
Pearl chains two or three yards long are
the latest fashion. They are twisted round
the neck and caught In loops down the front.
FRENCH HOtfSE GOWNS
to suit the design of the gown or the fancy
of the wearer. ADA CONE.
AXDUEW JOHNSON'S DAUGHTER.
Olio of Hie Willie Hou.itLiullcN of the
l'll f.
A Nashville correspondent of the Cincin
nati Commercial-Tribune , writing of the
White house ladles , of the past , pays this
tribute to Mrs. Patterson , daughter of Presi
dent Johnson : ' "
As soon as Mr. Johnson succeeded to the
presidency ho made his domestic plans for
occupation of the White house. He be
sought Mrs. Patterson to nssumo feminine
charge , which she did with many misgivings.
But she filled the place- with the womanli
ness of a queen , and history has only good
to say of her. Of all the expressions con-
cernlng-her , she treasured that of James G.
Hlaine more than any other. The Plumed
Knight said :
"She retired from the position , leaving
fewer enmities , jealousies and criticisms
than would have been possible to any one
else returning to private life from so ex
alted a station , when the entree thereto had
been with so little previous social training. "
"We are plain people from the mountains
of Tennessee , called hero for a short time
by a national calamity. I trust that too
much will not be expected of us , " was the
simple announcement Mrs. Patterson made
upon assuming charge of the mansion. The
care of an Invalid mother and the training
of her two children would have ( been enough
work for an ordinary woman.
Mrs. Patterson did what no other mistress
had done before , opened the parlors and con
servatories to the public every day. Before
and since the custom has been to allow the
public to Inspect these treasures on fixed
days , but I.Ira. Patterson invited the public
every day. and was applauded by all the
prominent newspapers of the country for that
"truly American act. "
There Is only one member of the Imme
diate family of Andrew Johnson now living ,
Andrew Jackson Patterson , son of Mrs. Pat
terson. Mary Belle Patterson , ono of the
most beautiful children of the Whlto house ,
grow to splendid womanhood , married John
Landslide ! of 'Baltimore , a wealthy young
man , but In a few years was seized with a
throat trouble and died whllo seeking health
In California. From the tlmo Mrs. Patterson
entered the Whlto house until her death a
few years ago , personal sorrows and heart
rending griefs chastened her sorely.
She. saw her mother , four brothers and
sisters , her father , her husband and daugh
ter laid away under the magnificent arch in
the beautiful cemetery at Greenville , and
her own death loft but her son : Upon the
great monument that marks the grave of
Andrew Johnsoij arc the words :
"Hore lies the unan who was In the public
service for forty years , and died as he had
lived , an honest man the noblest work of
God. He never tried to deceive his country
men. "
Mrs. Patterson lived ) In the Johnson home
stead in Orecnvlllo almost In retirement un
til her death , Her son was given a con
sulate by President Cleveland a few years
ago , but he Is now a wealthy manufacturer
of East Tennessee ,
Some very valuable souvenirs of tbo past
are trcasurod In the Johnson homestead at
Greenville , and an effort willVm made to
secure them for exhibition at tuo'Tennessee
centennial along with the relics of Andrew
Jackson and James Knox Polk.
TUB IMtKMIKH'S WIFE.
Polltlcnl ForcHlKlit mill .TuilKiiiciit of
MrN. John Slierinnii.
Tbo following about the wlfo of the com
ing secretary of state Is furnished by tbo
Washington correspondent of the Now York
Tribune :
That Mrs. Sherman's judgment and po
litical foresight have had a marked In-
luenco over her husband thcro can be no
doupt , and moro than once ehe has turned
tbo scale In some important political de
cision. It was Mrs. Sherman who practi
cally settled the question of the senator's
candidacy for his last nmomlnatlon to the
< cnatt > four years ago. Mrs. Sliermcn her
self wished to return to private life. For
a year or two slio felt this deslro growing
stronger and stronger , until she had fully
made up her ml ml that after the senator's
long service to the public they owed the
duty of service to themselves In the enjoy
ment of a few years of private life. To
iieep their Washington home , and with It
time for their friends and time for foreign
travel , and ether agreeable recreations , was
the picture framed by Mrs. Sherman for
.heir later years. It grew upon her more and
more , and one day she said frankly to a
[ rlend : v
"If I thought my husband would come
jack to the senate another term I should
tie an unhappy woman , "
Tlmo passed on , and when the hour came.
For the senator to declare his Intentions
to Ohio ho was ready to write the letter
declining to be a candidate for renomlna-
tlon. Then It was that Mrs. Sherman at
once roallreil the outlook for her husband
the itep from a long and busy life Into
v/hat ? That stop was the question which
confronted And Startled Mrs , Sherman , but
which the tfcrtrttor had not thought of or
considered. v&t # . ' ' Sherman knew better even
than her hMsWflld that ho would not bo
equal to tholvba9l , the Idleness , the loss of
occupation AmT'thc dally routine ot public
life. < /
"Weigh W8 r Ihb step , " said Mrs. Sher
man. "What will you do with yourself ?
What resource * ' will you have In private
life to take'ui"6 place of your work , which
has been your Iffo for so many years ? You
trould bo a rMlbss and unhappy man. with
out work. Tnfnk over the step well before
you make youi''dcclslon. "
The senator wint back to his library and
the letter bf 'atcllnatlon was never writ-
ton. " ; " *
When the''nccoptanco ' of the portfolio of
state In the now cabinet was to bo con
sidered , It was Mrs. Sherman who again
turned the scale. Proud of her husband's
long and splendid public eervlcc , as she
may well be , Mrs. Sherman feels that no
ether service would more fitly round the
senator's career than the four years In
President McKlnlcy's cabinet.
NEW OPEIIA. GLASSES.
AVluit Science niul Art llnrc Done to
Improve Tlienler llhiociilnrH.
Many remarkable Improvements have been
made lately In the manufacture of opera
glasses , especially for long distance observa
tion. Their wonderful lenses alone bring up
the cost to trlplpi the amount of an ordinary
handsome glass. . These lenses are very
small , and the Ci'nt the bottom of the bar
rels are exactly , the same size as the ones at
the top. Tjfjo Jjarrels themselves are as
long as a Conventional glass when drawn
'
out full length' . The focus for one's eyes
Is found by uVpans jot turning a little wheel
on the uluinnium'stem between the barrels.
This wheel "screwefl loose and pushed up
and down oh ( aUny metal plato , bearing
hyo qr six Uumuera. Looking th'rough the
barrels , ono p'iishes the wheel up or down ,
until a perfect , .focus for one's eyes is found ,
then the wluxjl is 'screwed in tlght. Ob
serving the metal plate , ono can see that the
wheel stopped at one ot the numbers , 4 ,
5 or C , which indicates what number Is
ono's perfect focus.
After that the wheel can bo kept at the
number , or when the glasses are loaned to
some ono whoso eyes focus differently. It Is
§ &
t > < - i
i' ! , , NOVEL GLASSES FOR TUB THEATER.
a convenience -jnerely to push the wheel
back to nurub'or 0 , screwit In tight , and
once moroiusb. tbo glasses without again
gauging a comfortable range of vision.
INCREASE THE VISION.
This now Airringement Is applied to all
flno glassesot improved nialco , though there
la another wrinkle In opera binoculars which
tickles thq .theater-goer's fancy. It is a
pair of glasses that seem to have their "bar
rels doubled ) 't , the bottom. So It seems
Indeed , fropi ( ho outside , but this Is merely
to make rootn for a device by which the eyes
are given tlifllrJ full angle of vision , "With
ordinary glares ono Is only able to take
In a portion ! otlio ( ; stage , a single individual ,
or object , aim , time , whllo through the now
onett , by moving only the eyes and ' not
the glasses at all , ono's glance range's over
the whole stage.
Hero U a boon , indeed , for the regular
first-nighter , who , up In the very cock loft ,
can fairly count the heroine's eye-lashes ,
take In a tableau complete and need not ,
moreover , complain If his or her eyes ore
not a trifle nearer together , or just a thir
ty-second of an Inch further apart than
those of the ordinary Individual. Not only
do her new glasses hold their focus and
triple her visual powers , but their barrels
Work on. a hlrgo and the hinge la held fast
by a bit of a screw. Turn the screw to
the right and the barrels stretch further
apart , or to the left and they come nearer
together. They will even lift obligingly a
trifle higher ono than the other , BO that
eyes set at any angle can be exactly fitted ,
ALL IN AN ENVELOPE.
So much for scientific Improvement , which
has not reformed the opera glass at the
expense of comfort , convenience , or ele
gance , for that matter. The theater-going
young man and his ( Allor-made sister , to
nil appearances , carry no glasses nt all , but
when the act begins they pull from their
pockets flat little envelopes ot leather , not
larger than would bo needed to hold a folded
sheetof medium-sized note paper. Hern Is
(
of brown elephant's skin , edged with Kold ,
nnd her Initials set on at the point of the
Hap , her address across the front Bide ,
His envelope Is likely enough of swcct-
smelllng Russia leather , and both are lined
with satin. Their contents prove to bo
nothing less than n pair of opera glasses
without barrels. The small nnd largo lenses ,
framed In narrow rims of pearl , are hinged
to what Icoks llko a silver gilt Jl , with a
central bar. The central bar shows a wheel
and numbered plato for fixing the focus ,
a short skeleton handle ( olds out from
across the small lenses , and In a trlco this
ghost ot n commonplace opera glass Is fixed
for use , nnd giving complete satisfaction.
At the close of the play It folds up , is slip
ped In Its envelope , nnd makes a pocket
package not as bulky as a woiuan'u purse
minus its contents.
Just as convenient to carry , but not so
light to hold , Is the collapsable glass ,
which , on n central frame , draws out as
long as n field binocular , or tclctcopcs Into
a handy pocket object , not mow than an
inch high. Nearly all these glasncs are
made of leather and aluminum , to Insure
perfect llghtncsft when they are upheld ;
but for the woman who observes the stage
front n box seat this glittering metal is not
qulto luxurious enough.
Her glasses nro mounted In tortoise
shell , cut very thick , to give the rich brown
and yellow tones a moro splendid glow.
The long stick Is elaborately caned nnd
fastened to the outer sldo of one of the
small light barrels by n hinge , so that the
little glasses can bo used as a lorgnon
would be. The wlvep of millionaires have
their tortoise shell trifles elaborately banded
with Jewels and carry them In long nar
row satin bags that have gold gate tops
and hook Into the dress belt.
When no handle Is used , the tiny , pow
erful glasses nt In cases ot the most
delicate wicker work , lined with satin
nnd prettily fastened with a silver gilt pad
lock. So1 light and delicate Is all this made
that the wearer carries It dangling from
the neck by a long fine gilt or silver chain.
HKKOlt.M IX mXMCli-aiVIXG.
.Simple Dlniirrfl Arc Nmv Coiinlttereil
tlir KIcKitiit Dinner * .
"A dinner engagement , no matter whether
the dinner be largo or small , formal or In
formal , Is the most exacting of social obli
gations , " writes Mrs. S. T. Rarer In the
February Ladles' Homo Journal. "Indeed ,
I always ] felt a double sense of obligation
when Invited to a small dinner. In selectIng -
Ing the guests for the small dinner choose
those who arc congenial. If among your
friends you number physicians , lawyers or
politicians , do not Invite ono ot each class ,
nor all of one class , simply because their
professions are the same , but select con
genial spirits. Then small dinners , well ar
ranged , are much more enjoyable than one
largo conventional dinner served to sixty ill-
selected people. The food is better , service
better and digestion bettor , and even when
trained help cannot he employed the hostess
may enjoy the occasion as well as the guesU.
The art of dining , remember , Is quite apart
from the art of giving dinners.
"A reform In dinner-giving Is being Insti
gated. Simple dinners are now 'the elegant
dinners. ' The man who has studied the art
of living lives frugally. A hostess must
never forget that during the short tlmo her
guests are under her roof she is responsible
for their happiness and comfort. A hugo
dinner of twelve courses of badly blended
food is not conducive to either. Savarin
said : 'Tho dinner table Is a place where men
are never bojed ; for the first hour ; ' the In
sinuation that a second should prove a bore
Is rather prominent. If people In the ordi
nary walks of life are to make such enter
tainments a success they must never try
new or elaborate dishes , or even new ways
of serving ; they should ulmply add an extra
Plata or two to the usual number and invite
their friends. "
PRESERVING CUT FJ.OWEUS.
A Simple- Method or nxtciullitff the
Life of ( lie HloniiiM.
Just now flowers are literally worth their
weight in gold , and when one Is fortunate
enough to become the possessor of a gener
ous bowlful. It Is well worth while to study
ways to keep their beauty from fading. Our
readers are advised to try the following the
very next tlmo there Is an opportunity , and
they will have this department to thank for
their flowers lasting three or four times the
length of tlmo they would If treated in the
ordinary manner.
In the first , place , before removing the
beauties from tbo box or paper In which they
arrive , sprinkle them gently , but thoroughly ,
with freeh , cold water ; then onako some very
good strong soapsuds , which takes the place
'of roots , nnd 'Is , therefore , very Important ,
and put the flowers therein , taking care not
to pack the sterna too closely together. Every
morning without fall tbo flowers must betaken
taken out of tbo suds , their stems clipped a
wee morsel , and laid sideways in clear , cool
water. See that every stem Is well covered ,
let Ho for a few minutes , sprlnklo with the
fresh water , shako and return to the suds ,
and your flowers "will look as if Just that
moment picked. Change the suds every * three
days , follow this rule carefully , and at the
end of a whole month compare your flowers
with those of a day or two old , which have
been carelessly crammed Into a vase of
water , and mark the contrast. Even after the
fifth week the flowers that have been fed
by the suds will look passably well. This
is certainly .worth a trial for flower lovers ,
and how a few do glorify a room , to bo
uuro.
uuro.A very simple and curious experiment
may bo tried with ordinary household am
monia. For instance , dip awhite carnation
or a dark rod sweet pea Into tbo ammonia ,
and the former will immediately change tea
a dainty yellow , the latter to blue , deepen
ing into purple.
Green roses are not pretty , but It there
Is a faded pink ono it will bo curious to
dip it , and behold it transformed into a
beautiful lettuce green.
Notcn ,
The coat which outlines the figure at the
aides , flta U closely in the back and la loose
In front is the favorite style nnd bids fait
to bo for some months to come ,
The newest thins In wedding yells Is tull
with & ruffle ot rose point all around the
cdgo.
Uoloros of lace and wide draped belts fast
ened with rhlnestone buckles aru features
of wedding gowns this season ,
Muffs ot velvet nnd fur combined arc
finished nt the opening with n ruche ol
finely plaited glace silk or lace , which ha ;
been , stiffened a llttlo In the plaiting.
The "plrlo" finish Is a now Invention In
sponging cloth and nil wool dress materials.
It effectually shrinks them so that they nre
not affected In the least by any dampness.
Tucking in all forms Is In great vogue Just
at present , and small mutton leg sleeves nro
tucked from the shoulder to the waist in
graduated widths , the widest tuck being at
the top. i j
The white silk and 'atln bodice li a pretty
feature of the ae\v cloth gown : , which nro
made of cloth , for calling and theater wear.
U Is cither full or plain , with n short velvet
bolero over it.
High-necked bodices nro quUo the cor
rect thing for evening wear a most ac
ceptable fashion In cold weather. They must
bo well made and very elaborate , of course ,
but that Is the rule In all gowns Just nt
the moment.
Nature Is entirely out of the race in the
question ot color in hair , since she never
provides any now fashions , and now tints
In hair brought out by some presumably
harmless preparations nro ono of the latest
nttrnctlons the hair dresser has to offer.
Tan gloves are qulto ns fashionable as
white for calling and street wear , but white ,
palo yellow and pink are the proper tints
for evening dress , except with a black cos
tume , which requires a black glovo. The
four-button length Is worn with the long
sleeves.
Among Parisian fancies to wear with ele
gant street and , visiting costumes during the
catly spring are small Russian Jackets' ot
fur orvelvet , no longer than a bolero , but
square-fronted , that are almost covered" with
heavy beaded and scqulncd arabesques ,
sunken In the rich pile. Thcso costly llt
tlo confections are furnished with high-
standing Robespierre collars.
1'leatcd ruches appear among the garni
tures to bo used on the trimmed skirts of
evening toilets , nlono ns n heading for ac
cordion-pleated frills. These ruches are in
chfcorco and fan-pleated styles , and are put
on the skirt In narrow widths , or ono larger
ruche goes round the hem In crescendo or
diminuendo fashion , to suit the shape and
style ot the train or the particular fancy of
the wearer.
Black handkerchiefs are announced as the
latest craze in Paris. A pleasing modifica
tion of this fancy Is a white handkerchief
with a black border embroidered with n
wreath of tiny flowers , Handkerchiefs of
palo pink , mauve , yellow , blue , and oven
purple are among the season's novelties ,
and they nro embroidered with white ini
tials and trimmed around with lace ; but
the daintiest of nil Is a pure white hand
kerchief sheer and fine , with a flight of
butterflies embroidered in ono corner and
reaching well Into the center.
A handsome Doucet model that will b
worn In Washington during the Inaugura
festivities has a perfectly formed princess
back. The dress is made of pinkish gra ;
moire , the front cut of ? at the waist line b ;
the addition of alternate stripes of molr
ribbon and fur laid over Venetian lace. Th
immense Queen Bess collar is one mass o
scintillating jewel beads , with a pleating o
the beautiful lace Inside. The close sleeve
are very long , reaching half over the hand
with lace frills es a finish to the pointer
portion that Is covered with the Jewel garni
lure. The skirt Is untrlmmcd , but the en
tire gown Is lined throughout with pink am
opal-gray shot taffeta silk.
The fabhlonablo evening headdress of twc
or three feathers with an aigrette or two ar
ranged "high on the crown of the head hai
an Importance In the screening buslnos :
which is rarely surpassed by the correc
evening bonnet ; nnd a pretty Parisian SUB
gestlon Is a wreath of violets around tin
cell of hair , whether it Is done up on the top
of the head or on the nape of Xhe neck
Wired loops of black velvet ribbon thickly
spangled with sold or silver form one of the
many styles of headdress worn at the opera
but three short curling ostrich tips In black
with" one abort aigrette , arranged so that
two of the tips curl down close to the hair
and ono stands up , make the prettUst pos
sible decoration for light brown hair.
l Vmfliilno Xoft'M.
Mrs. George Dlmock ot Elizabeth , N. J. ,
has given $100 to the English department
of Vassar , to be used for the purchase of
books on early English drama.
Actress Catharine' Glemmons , Howard
Gould's "betrothed , was born In Milton , 111.
Her mother was a daughter of the late
Colonel Kllpatrlck and was divorced from
Catherine's father. Cle'mmons was remar
ried and still lives in Milton. The mother
obtained the three children , all girls.
Marian S. Parker ofl Now York enjoys the
unique distinction of being the only practi
cal woman civil engineer In this country.
She Is a slight , joung girl , apparently about
20 years of age , and has a womanly , gracious
manner that makes her very charming. Miss
Parker seems qulto unconscious of the fact
that her peculiar position as the ono woman
in her profession makes her Interesting.
"Mrs. Cleveland Is to be asked by the chief
patroness of a foot ball fair to bo held at
Princeton , which Is to bo an elaborate fete
of gorgeous colors and romantic foot ball
lore , to enchant each purchaser of the ball
which have seen service on the field. All
this Is to ho In the name of charity. The
foot ball fair will hardly bo given until
nftcr Inauguration , although no dnto has
been as yet settled.
Whllo Vienna is preparing for the cele
bration of the Schubert centenary , a grandniece -
niece of the great composer has made her
first oppearonoo In that city as an actress.
She Is Anne Slcgmund , 1C years old. She
played one of the parts in the performance
given by the school of acting of the Cou-
servlatorlum , in which she Is a pupil. On
her mother's side she is a granddaughter of
Andreas 'Schubert , a brother of the composer.
Mrs. Isabelle Witherspoon of Now York
read a paper the other day on Alexander
Hamilton and Aaron Burr , thei main feature
of which was a defense of Burr , who , ho
said , "was the most deeply-wronged and
worst-abused person In American history. "
Mis. Wltborspoon ventured the opinion that
with the lapse of time the stain on Burr's
name will be erased and ho will bo accorded
i high place in American history.
THE ADVANCE
AGENT OP HEALTH
j ? " " ' WARNER'S
SAFE
KIHK lffltVEIi ! '
* F
UK'NA y Ql JjMJ'
F ) , ni.k ( > ; .M > - !
Gt . ? n ; - . - . : .
.VJ \ LA tU \
SAFE
BOSTON STORE
DRUG DEPARTMENT.
MMlTYALE'S
GREAT
REMEDIES
FOR THE HEALTH ,
HAIR AND
COMPLEXION.
TRULY A BEYELAII0.1 10 SCIEiiCB.
Mme. Ynle unyg there li no limit to bcixutlfr-
Ine and na rrnson vliy any woman sliouUl not
become bcnutltul.
failles , Mme. Yale's Great lietnedlrs arc on
dully exhibition nt our Toilet Dcimrtnicnt.V
ciuloi-so them niul recommend tliem ntiovo oil
others ; our prlctu are l < elow nil oilier dealer * .
and wo sell fresh Roods newly mamifacturM
direct from Mmc. Ynlo'B laboratories.
CUT PRICES.
.Mine. Ynle' * "Skin VooiU * Removes Wrin
kles , Ilcotorcs Youth.
Blnio. Ynle1 * "Complexion Illcnoh"
Clears the Complexion ; llcmovcs all kln
Mine. Ynle'N "Almond IlluKNoni Com-
Iilexlon Cream" Keeps the Complexion
Perfect.
Mine. Ynle'N "Kllxlr of llennty" creates
n llosy Ulutv of Natural Color ; a Kkln Tonlo.
Mine. Inle'n "Ilnncl iWlilteiier" make *
the Immls Soft , Dcllcnle and While .
Mme. Yitle'M "Kxoelxlor llnlr Tonic , "
a Scientific Medlclno for residing the hnlr
to perfect health nnd Iti natural color ; stop *
Imlr railing , cures dandruff nnd all known ail.
monta of the hnlr ; jloes not effect the hnlr' *
natural color ; can lie used by blondca or
brunelles , children or Adults , of cither BCX.
Mine. Ynle'N "llnlr Cleniicr. " a perfect
Shampoo ; Highly oMdlcated.
Mine. lale'M "Krnltlcurn , " a Female
Tonlo , mirj'anslnR In merit anything ever
discovered for curing the complaints i > ccullar
. to the sex.
Mine. Yiile'n "JIIooil Tonic , " a Qrent
lllooa Purifier nnd General Tonlo for build-
Inu up a run-down system , nnd acting upon
the lllood , Liver and Kidneys , giving
utrenittli. visor und iiuilty lo niltho vllul
orpans of cither sex , Chllilron or Adults.
Mine. Ytile'H "Fertilizer , " a 1'osltlve
Cilia fur Constitution.
Mine. Ynle'N " .Speeliil Ointment" nhd
.Mine. Yitlc'M "Speelnl Lotion , " a PosI-
tl\o Cure for UlacUhcads , Pimples nnd all
manner of Eruptive Skin Dlucnses. To b
usi-il na dlrccled. Tlie Ointment before ro-
tlrlmr nnd the Lotion In the tnotnlntr.
Mine. Yiile'n "Kyelironniul IJyelnnli
CiroMer" for promotlnt ; the growth of the
eyebrows niul lashes. Truly wonderful.
Mine. Ynle'H "Tooth Pimili'r. "
Mine. Yiile'N "Knee1'oivder. . " 3 shades.
Flesh , Whllo and Cream.
Mine. Ynle'H "Complexion .Soup , "
Mine , Ynle'M "JneU IlciNe Leaven , " a
Hose 1'lnk Tint for the checks ; jicrfect 1ml-
tutlon of nature.
Mine. Yule' * "ItoNe lliidH * ' Lip Salve.
.Mine. Ynle'N KUIIIOIIH lliilile to lleuutr
Free. Ask for one.
Mall orders scut to uny part of America.
YAM2 IIISAUTV IMtlCK LIST.
We carry n complete line of Yale's Famous r
Health arid licauty llcmedlco.
'
Hair Tonl'c ' . 750
Hair Cleanser 75o
Krultlcura , . . , , "t a
La Fieclda 75o
Skin Food ( small ) Jl.s ;
.Skin Food ( Inrge ) $2.23
llust Food ( small ) ll.ss
Uust Food ( larse ) J.2
Fnee Powder , S shades , pink , white , bru
nette 55c
Complexion Soap ITO
Complexion lllcach $1.75
Almond Ulossom Complexion Cream 75o
l yelash Qruwcr 75o
Special Lotion No. 1 750
Special Ointment No. 2 TSo
Hlood Tonlo 73o
Hnnd Whltencr 7o
iilxlr : of Ilcauty. . . . * : 75o
Magical Secret 31.25
Great Scott { 3.09
Jack Itose jLoavcs. . . , , . 75o
Jack Rose ISuds 75o
Face Knamel Jl.25
Hyebrow Pencil 17o
Fertilizer J1.23
Mole nnd Wart Extractor $2.29
Full line of Mine. Ynle's Preparations can
always bo found In our Drug Department.
BOSTON STORE
DRUG DEPARTMENT ,
N. W. Cor. Ifith and Douglas. Omaha. Net
OR MORPK HABIT
PAINIESSLY & PERMANENT ! * CURED
. JS.
PAINLESS ® Pmm ANTIDOTE
ORIGINAL AND OHLV GENUINE REMEDY.
Discovered In 1 868. "THERIAKI" Book Freo.
Office 31 2 , 78 Monroe Street , rillPAfiA
P. 0. Drawer G53. UlltAUU ,
NE8S & HEAD NOISES CURED ,
UarlNVISluU llll > > . " uillo.i , . ! plien tU . .1r.l ,
Braflto V. IHiMii l > i. . r.3 n'utf. ! ! . Y , for nee > fc I'roofr
& l HEALTH KENEWS YOUTHFUL' '
< < " " to urt ; Jlllr. Cuter * JUI j tfpoti , Mr. ) VtnJruff.
| Y purchasing coeds in ado
nt the following Nebras
ka factories. If yon can *
not find what you want ,
communicate with the
3 * & mnnufucturers an to
w h n t dealers Iiandlo
their goods. -i . ?
BAGS , BURLAP AND f WINE.
III3MI9 OMAHA IAO Coi
Manufacturer * of all klnl > of cotton ana bur
lap bags , cotton flour Back * and twine a ipto
My. cn-dio-cis B. nth et.
BKEWJSniE3.
OMAHA IJIlIiWI.NG ASSOCIATION.
Car load slilpmenU mode In cur own refnk.
irator car . Uma Hlbbon , Kllte Export. Ylen
Jxport ana ramlljr Export delivered to all pat i
'
IRON WOltKa
DAVIS & COWG1LI. IUO.V AVOUKA.
Iron iiuil UrimK Vouuilero.
Uanufacturers and Jobber * of Machinery. Oen.
Tal tepalrlnif a iceclalilKOI , 1M1 and IMS
lockBou Btreet , Omaha , Neu ,
INUUSTUIAIj IHO.V WOHKft.
Manufucturlng and repairing of all klnOs of
nacnlnerx , engines , pumu * . vlevalora. prfnllnit
ircsjes , bangera , ilmttinK ana cuupluj g , HIS and
< OS Howard St. , Omaha.
AXTON & VJBttWNO IKOJf 1VOJIKS.
Manufacturer * of Archltccutral Jron Work ,
leneral Foundry. Alacnlut and Illackdnlltt wcik.
: nElneers and Contractor ! for Fire Proof DullJ.
ngs. Onice and work t U , 1' . Ily , tnd Bo.
7th Btreet , Omaha ,
* " "
NIGHT WATCH , FIUE HBRVICB.
IIU5IUOAN DISTBIOT TKLUoilAI'lil
The only perfect prctecllon to propirty. Ilium-
na 't. ' lieit thing on earth , Iteducc * Iniliranc *
ate * . 1304 Oougla * strett.
BHIRT FACTORIES.
r. II. KVAXH NtJIIIlAbK/i SIIIUT
COMI'AJVV ,
Cicluelve ciutom ehlrt tailor * . Ulft J'lrnam.
TENTS AND AAVNINdS.
AMKUIOAN T12.V1' AND AWMNQ CO.
Owning * , Tent * , Home Coven. Iflam * iinfl
'fculln * . Tent * for rent , Baleiroom CU BoutU
Utetntlt Btrtct. Telephone ito.